A tip for oil comparisons- go to soapcalc (not sure how easy it is with the other calcs) and select the oil that you want to find a replacement for. Set it as 100% of the recipe and hit calculate. Close the recipe so you're back at the data entry page - now when you highlight any oil in their list you have a side-by-side comparison to the other oil. Just go through the list looking for something similar, or see which ingredients on hand could work. It's not totally accurate, as lard and Shea are similar in theory but not quite so in practice, but it gets you in the right direction
I've been running a lot of stuff through soapcalc, and they're all pretty similar on the quality numbers. I didn't think to Google the oils' shelf life until a few minutes ago, but it looks like everything but sunflower should be fine.
Olive oil is a decent substitution for the almond. But run the recipe through a
lye calculator to see the numbers for yourself, then you will know.
If the oils have a short shelf life, then yes your soap can develop DOS quickly. Store them in the freezer immediately, and use small amounts (under 15% IIRC) quickly.
Found BB's shelf life info...used to have all that in my head, but it's been too long to remember it now LOL. I actually never had DOS before, and I'd rather it not show up on Christmas presents, so I'll avoid the sunflower oil!
You figure the superfat right in the recipe by just putting 13 in the superfat line. Don't get confused by the people who claim superfat can be added at trace to prevent the lye from eating it up. The saponification process can take days, and the lye takes what it wants.
Thank you!!! I was totally going by my old memory, and further reading says that's wrong like you said. I did think adding at trace was the thing to do.
SL substitutes for salt to harden your bar, which is completely unnecessary with the above recipe. Sugar adds bubbles. Not at all the same thing.
BB's website says you should use SL with all recipes when using silicone molds. I did use SL before, can't remember if I used it in all my recipes or not. I was using silicone for about 80% of my bars. Would you use the SL in my recipe with silicone molds? Thank you for clarifying about the salt vs sugar, I added to my notes I wrote down LOL.
Boil the wine down to get rid of the alcohol. Then be prepared to freeze that soap immediately, and leave it in the freezer for 24 hours.
Should I add the wine after I've mixed the oils and lye?
Freezing the milk is supposed to help. I have never had success in my milk not turning orange, but the good news is that it does not stay orange.
Oh good! I think I only used liquid milk once or twice, after that I discovered coconut milk powder. I have some canned goat and coconut milks right now I'm planning to use. If I get back into soap, I'll order some powders eventually LOL.
Sorry, you said "I hate lip balm" and my brain broke. I have like 6 tubes in my purse now. Does not compute.
In body applications, I usually replace sweet almond with avocado and I really like it.
Haha, I don't do anything on my face, makeup or lip stuff.
I had to stop using lip balm. My lips were cracking and peeling, even with my handmade lip balm. It took about a month of misery for them to heal up, but they are better now than when I started wearing lip balm at 12.
I haven't had that problem, and I will use stuff in the winter, but I did notice when I used it as a teen that I tended to lick it constantly, so I just quit using it.
Catastrophe, have you tried using canned milk?
I use the milk-in-oil method with canned milk.
In the
lye calculator, I bump up "water as percent of oils" from 38% to 40%. I dissolve my lye in 1/2 of that water amount. So if my recipe calls for 10 ounces of water, I dissolve my lye in 5 ounces of water. When the oils are the correct temperature (I like to do about 90 for milk soaps) I pour 5 ounces of canned milk into the oils. While stickblending the oils, I pour the room-temp lye water into the oils.
Awesome, thank you! I am planning to use canned milks.