First soap plan

[Chispa]

I originally planned on making soap about 14 years ago, but got into brewing beer instead. Now I'm back in it. I've browsed the first 150 pages of threads in the lye soap forum, and settled on a direction.

I want to make a lard based soap. Lard seems to be the best bang for buck as far as bulk oils go. To that end I called up the local butcher and got 5.5kg of pork fat, which I've rendered down to about 3 kg of lard and 2 kg of fairly nasty meat stuff I plan on mixing into the dogfood. (the dog is really keen for it).

All the lardies in the forum rave about how great the soap feels.The only downside seems to be that it is weak on bubbles. So 5% castor oil and 15% Coconut oil to the rescue. Another oil recommended to boost lard is olive. And I cant work out what the olive is meant to contribute, some sort of je ne sais quoi. I would like to keep the soap as gentle as possible, while having satisfying bubbles. Would lard, coconut oil, and castor oil (and sugar) satisfy the my criteria?

What is a good batch size for starting out? It seems a little foolish to go too big too early and spoil a lot of oil.

I don't have any fragrance oil, and I'm slightly concerned about coming out of the shower smelling like a stale pork roast and repulsing my wife. She does have a supernose, while my nose seems to only be on my face for decoration. I wont even know I smelt like a roast until I see her reaction. Is there an easy, cheap, and manly scent I can chuck in there? I was looking at cedarwood essential oil, but it is $15 for a tiny bottle at the health food place, or a fortune in shipping from the east coast. And I dont know how much EO is prudent.

Is there a downside to using a bread loaf tin lined with baking paper as a mould? Many folks here have fancy silicone moulds, but the wife is already leary at my $20 expenditure on pig fat.

That's probably enough of a post for now. Thanks for having such a nice and friendly forum

 

[BrewerGeorge]

I don't see why you couldn't make soap without olive. Lard soap is traditional, after all, and has many of the same things people use olive for.

I would start with a 1kg batch. That's enough to get a decent amount of soap without risking a lot on your first try, and it's enough to allow for a typical kitchen scale precision.

My wife also has a super nose, so I certainly feel your pain there. For home-rendered lye, I would look for DeeAnna's (I think) thread about how to deodorize oil before use and do that. I would also make sure you're really confident that all the water is out of the lard before using it, because it could cause you to mis-measure the amount of fat in your recipe.

I would hesitate using a bread loaf because of the metals issue and because it might be hard to get out. Recycled containers might be a better option. I don't know what your containers are like in Australia(?) but something like a milk carton, Pringles can, or yogurt containers (individually) are pretty common molds.

 

[WeaversPort]

Firstly, welcome!

Second, you've definitely done a lot of good research already and obviously have a handle on a bunch of the basics. My first soap was recommended by lenarenee, and was:

20% Avocado oil
5% castor oil
15% coconut oil
60% lard

It was awesome and a whole new world of soap experience.

For your first time out, I'd recommend trying it at 500g batches and without adding sugar or something. It was helpful for me to see how things reacted before using additives. Then if things heated or accelerated, I had a loaf or two already under my belt. Also, I found I got enough lather on that first batch without needing any additional sugars or honey.

As for fragrance, you can pick up some inexpensive fragrances enough to do a first loaf. I didn't notice any rancid pig smell from my soaps, but I might not be sensitive. I'm not sure about shipping where you are.. In the US Brambleberry has a "Men's Sampler Box" which has, I think 9? different scents. You can also order some decent sizes from other vendors if you are just looking for a starting place. I recently did a test batch on Pheromone and enjoyed the scent. It behaved well, if I recall correctly: http://m.naturesgardencandles.com/pheromones-fragrance-oil.

There is a gentleman who does soaps on YouTube who is in Australia. He talks about where he gets his scents in his tutorials. Most of his soaps are melt and pour, however, so they may act differently in cold process: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCaDWkLKq_PsfZVIq7CwkEAw

For molds, all my first molds were done in Tupperware I bought from the dollar store. I'd recommend that over a metal mold. Not only because of avoiding metal in soapmaking, but also because if I messed up, I wasn't going to be crying over the loss of a dollar Tupperware.

People have also used milk cartons, Pringles cans, lined shoe boxes, yogurt cups, water bottles, etc. You have a lot of options that don't require a bunch of money for your first batches - especially if your wife is already looking sideways at the project

 

[SparksnFlash]

I agree with both responses to your thread, in particular regarding using a tossable alternative to the tin loaf pan. If your wife is already leery about more expense, she will not be pleased when the teensiest bit of lye that finds its way out of the paper eats up her bread tin.

Best wishes!

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

I agree with all except the batch size. With a digital scale at 1g, a 500g batch is more than safe, especially if you err on the lower side for NaOH and the upper side for the oils. It gives you more than enough bars to test but not so many that you're sat on a great big pile of soap after a few different tries

 

[DeeAnna]

"...And I cant work out what the olive is meant to contribute, some sort of je ne sais quoi...."

We've not done a lot of discussing about the chemistry of why a moderate amount of oleic acid is good in soap, really. The short answer is that the oleic acid in a well-cured soap will help the initial lather of the soap form more easily and quickly and remain stable, especially when combined with low to moderate amount of lauric and myristic acids (coconut, palm kernel) which also help to build a fast lather, but one that subsides faster. A moderate amount of stearic and palmitic acids (palm, tallow, lard) adds longevity to the bar of soap and also adds stable long-lasting lather.

You can get a moderate amount of oleic acid from a variety of fats -- olive, high oleic sunflower/safflower/canola, sweet almond, rice bran oil, avocado, and even lard.

"...Would lard, coconut oil, and castor oil (and sugar) satisfy the my criteria?..."

It is certainly a recipe I would try. Look at the fatty acid profile of lard and you'll find it provides a modest amount of oleic acid along with stearic and palmitic acids. So you get the two legs of the 3-legged stool that makes up most decent bathing soap recipes. The coconut provides the lauric-myristic acids -- and with that, you get the 3rd leg. IMO castor is optional especially if you use a bit of sugar, but it won't hurt.

 

[navigator9]

Just FYI, in addition to all the good info you've received above...my first mold was a quart milk carton. If you decide to use that, open the top, wash it out and let it dry. When ready, pour your soap in, and close up the top. I wrapped mine in a towel to encourage gel. When you're ready to unmold, just tear away the carton and voila, a nice log of soap for you to cut into individual bars. It makes a great first mold because you most likely already have one in your fridge, and there's no need to line it, since it's waxed. Free and easy! Good luck to you.

 

[Chispa]

Thanks everyone for the thoughtful replies. I hadn't considered the effect of getting a droplet of uncured soap out of the lining and ruining a loaf tin. The Mrs wouldn't be too pleased. I'll keep an eye out for a good alternative mould, or might build a wood form in the shed.

I have a few good scales for brewing, including one which goes to 0.01g, with a calibrating weight. Sounds like a 500g batch size will work.

I'll give the lard a good baking soda wash tonight, hopefully that strips out most of the smell. The internet is not abounding in information for washing lard, and the threads I've seen on this forum seem to be missing a few pieces of the puzzle. The basic thought seems to be to boil the lard for a half hour with half the volume of water, with a tablespoon or two of baking soda disolved in. Salt is mentioned for its ability to bind with impurities, not sure if the salt and baking soda steps can be done simultaneously.

As a brewer, I tend to shy away from recipes with too many ingredients. Even if the recipe turns out great, I can't tell which ingredient is contributing to the experience. Thanks DeeAnna for explaining the fatty acid profile contribution. I've already purchased a relatively expensive 100ml bottle of castor oil from the pharmacy, so I'll use it this time, I'll try without it next time.

 

[Relle]

'Is there a downside to using a bread loaf tin lined with baking paper as a mould? Many folks here have fancy silicone moulds, but the wife is already leary at my $20 expenditure on pig fat.'


Not sure what area you are in but you can get silicon cake moulds from K mart for $5 as a loaf pan or individual moulds. I wouldn't use a bread loaf tin even though it's lined with baking paper. Sometimes you can also get cheap silicon moulds from the reject shop. Maybe you can make yourself a wooden one and use the baking paper to line that with.

 

[Susie]

My favorite recipe is this:

Lard 65%
Olive Oil 15%
Coconut Oil 15%
Castor Oil 5%

Superfat 5%

Why did you buy pig fat when you can probably go buy pre-rendered lard for about the same cost at the grocery store?

My first mold was a cardboard box with a plastic trash bag as a liner. It was not pretty, but it worked.

Lots of plastic containers you probably already have around your house have a 2 or a 5 on the bottom and can be used as a mold. Yogurt containers come right to mind. Pringles cans can be used (with modification). Lots of stuff. Look around.

If you have a GNC or some sort of vitamin store, they sometimes have lemongrass EO for a not-quite-highway-robbery price. Also, Michael's or Hobby Lobby should have 0.5 oz sizes of lemongrass EO for about the same price. After this, though, order from a reputable supplier online. My current favorite is PipingRock.com.

 

[Chispa]

Why did you buy pig fat when you can probably go buy pre-rendered lard for about the same cost at the grocery store?

Excellent question. In the States I could buy gallon containers of lard for a pittance, here in Oz its $4.50 for 250g, roughly on par with coconut oil (at the grocery store). By rendering it myself, I was able to reduce price of the lard by about 75% and place this hobby within my financial grasp.

Your recipe is a very popular one on this website. My question was what does the olive oil do, and DeeAnna answered it quite nicely.

Lemongrass sounds like a nice and easy scent to add, which should cut through the pork quite nicely. Thanks!

 

[Zany_in_CO]

In addition to the advice above, here is a link to David Fisher's excellent site to learn about basic techniques, ingredients, equipment to buy, molds, recipes and more:

http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapmakingbasics/u/soapuserpath1.htm

I use Oakmoss to neutralize the odor of animal fats... good to know when rendering the fat yourself. Oakmoss Absolute is pricey, but you don't need much. It's thick, so I dilute it in jojoba but you can use any oil with a long shelf life. It also anchors EO blends and goes with just about anything.

90% jojoba
10% Oakmoss absolute
Use 0.7% ppo (per pound oils)
(1/4 - 1/2 tsp. ppo)

OAKMOSS ABSOLUTE, 1 oz. $15.10 (Evernia prunastri)
Oakmoss is not a true flowering plant but a lichen (algae + fungus) that is extracted for its fragrance. They grow well on trunks of the Oak tree. Oakmoss absolute is a viscous liquid with an extremely intense aroma reminiscent of a damp forest floor.

Its odor is uplifting, cooling and calming. Its properties are more emotional and spiritual than physical. It can be used as an addition with respiratory oils as an inhalant to relieve congested sinus. May irritate sensitive skin. Blends well with cedarwood, citrus, pine, rosemary and vetiver. Used extensively in perfumery, its a very thick product whose dark green color will vary from batch to batch and distiller to distiller. Flashpoint: >200 F. Solvent extracted lichen, India.

Source: Camden Gray

:bunny:

 

[dixiedragon]

For a first mold, you can use a Tupperware or Gladware container. I'm sure you have some that you've lost the lids for! It's a good idea to see if like this enough to buy a mold, which is probably the biggest initial expense and the least useful outside of soaping (the stick blender and food scale have cooking uses). It's also a good idea to take some time to really think about what you want in a mold and get EXACTLY that.

I wonder if it would be worth it to try sheep fat? Might be more available to you? One reason we US soapers are so dedicated to lard is because it is easily available and cheap. Apparently in the early days of our country there was a tongue-in-cheek campaign to name it the Republic of Porkdom.

 

[Chispa]

I imagine I could get sheep fat reasonably easily. We export and eat a lot of lamb here. It has a heavier smell than pork fat, but a baking soda wash should help with that.

I washed my lard with a tablespoon each of baking soda and salt, and a litre of boiling water. I boiled it all up for about 20 minutes stirring well. The whole cauldron foamed up more than I expected, I don't know if I didn't actually make a little bit of soap right there. I chilled the mixture and pulled the lard disk off the top once it solidified.

The lard was salty tasting, so I rinsed the lard once, boiling it with 1.5L of clean water, chilling it again and pulling the lard disk from the top. The lard tasted clean, with just a hint of salt remaining. The lard had only a small remnant of the heavy pork odour. Its noticeable when sniffing the pot full of hot lard, but not really when cold.

I popped the lard into the oven at 110C and let the water in the lard boil off. Once the oil temp rose to 110C, I poured it through a muslim cloth. There were tiny flecks of brown left in the cloth, but on the whole the lard was very clean. I poured the lard into loaf tins lined with baking paper and chilled it. Once chilled I finished wrapping the lard and popped into the freezer. It seems a bit softer than grocery store lard, and is mostly liquid at room temperature.

The 5.5kg of pork fat yielded 2.5kg of washed lard. I imagine that I could have saved another 250g or so if I had been more careful, but I had expected a better conversion than that. I still saved a fair amount of money rendering my own over buying it at the supermarket, and will probably do it again.

 

[Primrose]

I guess it comes down to whether you account financially for your time ... my time is basically non existent at the moment so I pay the $4.50 for 250g at the supermarket ... but I'm moving away from using lard anyway.

I reckon if you are still wanting to render your own, beef tallow might be the cheapest and easiest option to get. Just based on the prices of lamb in Perth ... and the fact that you get more fat off a beef carcass than a sheep.

If you account for both material cost and time, buying it pre-rendered in large quantities from catering supplies etc is probably the best bet

 

[Chispa]

Its a hobby for me. Something I do in my spare time after the kids have gone to bed. I can't remember the last time I've been to the movies and I have a newborn, so the process has started all over again. It will be a while before I have busy evenings.

I reckon you are right about beef tallow. Once I use up my lard, I might give it a go. I called up seven butchers in Perth and my local butcher was the cheapest. I don't think I'd have any problems getting lamb or beef fat. I'm in an Italian neighbourhood and sausage making is popular around here. People use fat often for that.

 

[penelopejane]

Chispa
You have Aussie Soap Supplies in Perth that you should look up. $$ fragrances may be offset if you pick up rather than pay postage.

I find we can get Olive oil pretty cheaply in Oz so that negates the necessity for looking for alternatives like lard (I'm also put off by the smell and the preservatives used in store bought lard) although palm oil is even cheaper here, if you have no objection to it.