Emulsifiers

nframe · Sep 10, 2018

When formulating a face/body cream/lotion, I know that the choice of oils will make it more or less suited to certain types of skin (dry, oily, combination). Does the same apply to emulsifiers? For example, is ewax NF better for dry or oily skin? I have ewax NF, BTMS, BTMS-50, Simulgreen, Olivem 1000 and would like to have just one emulsifier if possible. I wonder which one is the best.

Saponificarian · Sep 10, 2018

If I have to pick only one, I would pick BTMS 50. Great in lotions and cream. Necessary in hair conditioner.

lsg · Sep 10, 2018

Olivem 1000 should be used as a co-emulsifier, not by itself. BTMS and BTMS 50 are conditioning emulsifiers and can be used in hair products as well as lotion. I would choose either BTMS and BTMS 50.

DeeAnna · Sep 10, 2018

I'm with the others. If I had to live with only one all-in-one emusifier, some flavor of BTMS or generic conditioning emulsifier would be my pick.

The only issues that slightly complicate this question --

BTMS is a cationic ingredient. If you use BTMS to emulsify anionic ingredients, you might get emulsion failure or other troubles. For example, if you want to make an emulsified all-in-one shampoo, BTMS woud be a bad choice to use given that some of the more common surfactants are anionic. E-wax or other non-ionic or anionic emulsifier would be a better pick.

Another issue is the "soaping effect" where a lotion turns white and pasty at first when it's rubbed on the skin. BTMS can cause this, but emulsifiers like e-wax do not.

BTMS can have a fishy odor that some people find objectionable. I have caught a whiff from time to time when making a lotion, but I don't smell it in the finished product, so this has not been an issue for me.

For the type of lotions, scrubs, hair conditioner, and other products I usually make, I like BTMS the best. It's reliable and not fussy to use. It gives a nice feel on the skin, and a good conditioning effect on the hair.

nframe · Sep 11, 2018

So BTMS seems to be the one to go for! Although I hate the soaping effect and I found that Simulgreen prevents this.

I really wanted to know whether some emulsifiers are more suited to dry or oily skin.

DeeAnna · Sep 11, 2018

I don't think the choice of emulsifier is hugely critical when making products for dry skin versus oily skin, although I'm not remotely a cosmetic chemist, so my opinion about this is worth exactly what you paid for it.

Given my perspective, I'm more likely to stick with BTMS regardless of skin type, but tailor the amount and types of fats and other additives to skin type. For example, cetyl alcohol is a thickener that helps the emulsifier work better and provides a smoother texture to a lotion, but it also functions as an oil-free moisturizer. Kind of a two-fer ingredient. So you could use less fat for an oily skin product if you also use this thickener rather than stearic acid, the other common thickener many hobbyists use. Humectants, panthenol, silk or oat proteins, etc., etc., etc. can be tailored to skin type.

The amount of water-based liquids will alter how thickly a product is applied to the skin, and that might play into how you'd formulate a product for dry and oily skin types.