Does E-wax drying your skin?

[Kalindi]

Hello everyone
I've tried my first lotion using eWax, using Aloe Vera jel as a liquid. The consistency was perfect, but I've noticed it dries out on my skin almost like a thin layer of glue. You can wash it out, so I start using that lotion like a make-up remover, washing my face after using it. I was pretty sure that was aloe vera jell , so I decided make another lotion with rose water and got almost the same result. My husband used that lotion too and proved that it drying your skin.
Please help. Did somebody experience the same problem?

 

[Saponista]

Did you add any other oil than just the ewax? The wax is just an emulsifier so you only need a small amount of it heated up with some oil like sweet almond, then get the water part and the oil part to the same temperature and mix together with a whisk.

 

[CaraCara]

I don't find e-wax to be the best for skin lotion. I wouldn't say it's drying but on its own it doesn't feel moisturizing enough. What additives are you using?

 

[judymoody]

Could you post your complete recipe? It will be easier to identify what is happening.

 

[Kalindi]

Here are two my lotions recipe
I hope with your help I can finally make good one for me ) Thank you!!!!

Cocoa Butter 5%
Grapeseeds 40%
Ewax10%
Aloe Vera Jel 40%
Optiphen Plus 1%
Vitamin E 4%
------------------------------
Apricot Kernel 20%
Rose Water 20%
Rosehip 15%
Coconut 10%
Ewax 10%
Shea butter 9%
Aloe Butter 5%
Babassu 5%
Jojoba 5%
Optiphen Plus 1%

 

[kazmi]

I don't find e-wax to be drying to me but I don't use 10% in my lotions. You could try reducing the amount in your recipe (say to 5-6%) and increase your liquid. Add steric acid or cetyl alcohol if it's not as thick or creamy as you want but, with the amount you have in your oil/butter phase, you may not need it.

 

[Obsidian]

I would reduce it too, I only use 4.6% and it almost seems like too much.

 

[new12soap]

Emulsifying systems like ewax are usually used at 25% of your oil phase. Based on those 2 recipes you actually are not using enough ewax. Those both have a very high percentage of oils, more like heavy creams.

What are you looking for in a lotion? When you start with a lot of different ingredients it's very hard to tell what each oil is contributing. A lot of times simpler is better. Spend some time with http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/ there is a treasure trove of information there.

 

[DeeAnna]

Wow -- you're making "lotions" with only 20% to 40% as the water phase (your aloe or rose water)?

According to what I have learned, most lotions are 60% or more as the water phase. A product with 60% water phase would qualify as a thick cream, 70% water is more of a typical lotion, and 80% or higher is a light lotion or "milk".

With only 20% to 40% of your ingredients as the water phase, you are actually making a water-in-oil product, not an oil-in-water lotion! I'm wondering if that is part of your trouble with the product feeling plastic-y. That's a lot of butters, oils, and emulsifier to spread around and not much water phase to help you spread them smoothly.

The rule of thumb I use for a trial recipe is that the emulsifier should be roughly 25% of the oil phase (meaning the total of your oils, butters, and thickeners), so you're not too far off on that. I suspect, with the very high % of your oil phase that you might not get a consistent emulsion with less emulsifier.

The 25% rule of thumb can be adjusted up or down to suit your preferences. I tend to err on the lighter side with my emulsifier, but I am also using a thickener such as cetyl alcohol. A butter (shea, cocoa, etc) would be a thickener too.

I really question the high % of your oil phase -- that is very likely the reason for the unpleasant skin feel. I would revise the recipe so the water phase is a higher % than the oil phase, not the other way around.

 

[Kalindi]

Thank you very much for your help. It is definitely a lot to learn.