Dino puree soap - something went wrong

[Iveta Pelá]

I tried soap with dyno puree. I was inspired by a recipe from the Internet, but it was for a hot process. I modified the recipe, replaced the Shea butter and almond oil with lard. Everything went through the calculator. Here is my modified recipe:

212g olive oil, 212g coconut oil, 255g lard, 21g castor oil, 88g pumpkin puree - considered to contain 90% water, so substituted for 79g total water. Water = 266g - 79g = 187g of water. 106g of NaOH. 6% superfat

But what did I do... I processed everything, the soap was a beautiful trace, but instead of pouring it into molds, I thought when I was inspired by the instructions for the warm process that if I cook it, I can try it earlier... Now I know I will never do it again
So I tried to cook it. I don't have a slow cooker, I cooked in a regular stainless steel pot. It was still thin, I added heat. After about an hour, I think the liquid evaporated and it was already thick. The fault here could have been too much heat, the soap was bubbling with boiling water. Then I stuffed it into muffin tins. The consistency after demoulding in the morning was like crumbs, I fixed it by hand and let it harden. The photo is now 3 weeks later. The soap has solidified, but I think the crumbliness is still there.

I was thinking after reading some of the posts here that I would re-melt it in the oven. Can I fix it like this? And add water or milk? I have vegetable oils and lard in the soap. And I wonder how much liquid. I suspect that I evaporated some liquid by unsuccessfully cooking...

I would appreciate your feedback so I can understand what I did wrong and if I can fix it somehow.

 

[artemis]

I tried soap with dyno puree...

... 88g pumpkin puree - considered to contain 90% water, so substituted for 79g total water...

First, is "dyno puree" just the same thing as "pumpkin puree"?

Second, I agree that you probably overcooked it. There are people here on the forum who can talk you through that better than I can.

Third, hot processing will mean that your soap is safe that day. However, it will still need the same amount of curing time as a cold process soap.


You can search here for methods for rebatching. I hate this rebatch, though. Instead, I grate it up and mix it in to a new batch of soap. Search for confetti or ciaglia.

 

[Iveta Pelá]

First, is "dyno puree" just the same thing as "pumpkin puree"?

Yes it's "pumpkin puree" it was translated by Google translate...

You can search here for methods for rebatching. I hate this rebatch, though. Instead, I grate it up and mix it in to a new batch of soap. Search for confetti or ciaglia.

What soap do you recommend adding it to? What would this soap be well combined with? I have in mind, for example, what oils the soap to which I would add this could be made of. I currently have: lard, coconut oil, olive oil, linseed oil, hemp oil, poppy seed oil, argan oil

 

[TheGecko]

But what did I do... I processed everything, the soap was a beautiful trace, but instead of pouring it into molds, I thought when I was inspired by the instructions for the warm process that if I cook it, I can try it earlier... Now I know I will never do it again
So I tried to cook it. I don't have a slow cooker, I cooked in a regular stainless steel pot. It was still thin, I added heat. After about an hour, I think the liquid evaporated and it was already thick. The fault here could have been too much heat, the soap was bubbling with boiling water. Then I stuffed it into muffin tins. The consistency after demoulding in the morning was like crumbs, I fixed it by hand and let it harden. The photo is now 3 weeks later. The soap has solidified, but I think the crumbliness is still there.

I was thinking after reading some of the posts here that I would re-melt it in the oven. Can I fix it like this? And add water or milk? I have vegetable oils and lard in the soap. And I wonder how much liquid. I suspect that I evaporated some liquid by unsuccessfully cooking...

Despite what you have read Hot Process doesn't mean that you can use the soap sooner...it still needs to cure for four to six weeks. Hot Process just completes the saponification process quicker...from about 24 hours to about 4 hours. Given that it only takes me 20 minutes to make a batch of soap via Cold Process, I'm perfectly fine with having to wait 24 to 48 hours before I can unmold my soap. And I can make a lot of soap via Cold Process in the time it takes to make a single batch via Hot Process. Again...HP only shortens the saponification process and once fully saponified the soap is 'safe' to use (you'll see that word a lot when some folks talk about how great HP is), but it's not very good soap. It won't be as long lasting and it won't be as gentle if you don't allow it to cure for four to six weeks.

And you're going to have to toss the soap since you used muffin tins as mold...muffin tins are made with aluminum and aluminum and Sodium Hydroxide are a bad combination. You might get a little lucky if the tins are coated with Teflon, but you're looking a DOS and rancidity.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

And you're going to have to toss the soap since you used muffin tins as mold...muffin tins are made with aluminum and aluminum and Sodium Hydroxide are a bad combination. You might get a little lucky if the tins are coated with Teflon, but you're looking a DOS and rancidity.

However, you might be able to save the batch by washing the bars in a sink half-full with warm water. Add a cuddle of salt (pour into a cupped hand) and swish to dissolve. Wash with gloved hands (I also use a wash cloth sometimes). Drain on a non-metal rack or paper towels. Turn often so the paper doesn't stick.

Once dry, you can grate the soap up and try a rebatch. For a small batch (950g I'm guessing?) the Oven Rebatch should work but keep an eye on it so it gets molten but doesn't scorch.

HTH

 

[Iveta Pelá]

And you're going to have to toss the soap since you used muffin tins as mold...muffin tins are made with aluminum and aluminum and Sodium Hydroxide are a bad combination. You might get a little lucky if the tins are coated with Teflon, but you're looking a DOS and rancidity.

No, it's silicone. And yes, I wouldn't do it again and I tried that the hot process is not for me.

 

[Iveta Pelá]

Once dry, you can grate the soap up and try a rebatch. For a small batch (950g I'm guessing?) the Oven Rebatch should work but keep an eye on it so it gets molten but doesn't scorch.

In the end, I decided on Rebatch. I wanted to try this technique and also try this soap recipe to see if I like it and want to repeat it. Rebatch soap is so rustic, but I quite like it. I have already tried using it, it has a beautiful foam, it is pleasant.