Converting HP Recipe to CP Recipe

[Squeakie]

Hey there!

After having searched this forum and internet searched several times over the last few months and only finding vague information, I'm here posting this question:

• What adjustments need to be made to an HP recipe to convert it to a CP recipe?​

What I do know: HP recipes typically have more water as a percentage of oil weight. I have an HP recipe I've developed over time that I really love that is at 38% water as a percentage of oil weight. That percentage along with a bit of plain yogurt at the end of the cook gives me a relatively fluid batter, even allowing me to use soap bar molds (I like ovals and rounds, as they have a nice feel in the hand). The bars are still a bit rustic, which for most of my molds is fine, but molds with more detail tend to not come out as well. It's not a big deal, as I don't sell soap, but make it for our large family use and gifts for friends and family members.

A few months ago, as a request from someone with very sensitive skin, I give Zany's No Slime Castile soap recipe a whirl. I was shocked at how easy it was and how pretty the bars turned out! It was my first try at doing CP soap, and caused me to wonder if I could convert my HP recipe to a CP recipe. If I could make small batches a little more often, the cure time would be an acceptable tradeoff. As I searched for an answer, what I gathered is that, yes, HP and CP recipes are basically interchangeable, but that water percentage was typically higher in HP. But how to adjust from an Hp to a CP recipe - that's the mystery, lol!

What I don't know: What percentage water to oil weight for CP? From what I read, types of oils used (percentage of hard to soft oils) can be a variable, but is there a way to calculate for that? My HP recipe has 80% hard oils to 20% soft oils. Here's the header from SoapCalc for the recipe I use for HP:

Can anyone give me some guidelines for how to convert my HP recipe to a CP recipe? Are there other things to consider besides water percentage to oil weight? I'm necessarily frugal with my oils and other ingredients, and I know that there is always a trial and error element to soaping, but I'm hoping someone here can give guidance.

Thanks, All!

 

[lsg]

I would probably use 55% liquid oils. I consider coconut oil a hard oil. I usually include 20-25% palm oil, lard or tallow in my recipes. You can choose to deduct the amount of yogurt used from the water for the lye. Either add the yogurt to your oils and blend before adding the lye or add it at thin trace. I would make a smaller batch of soap to see if you like how it turns out using the CP method.

 

[AliOop]

TBH, I don't do anything different to my recipes between HP and CP, other than changing the amount of water.

However, I don't use the water as percent of oils setting; I use Lye Concentration instead. That makes it easier to have a consistent batter viscosity as you scale up or down. My HP lye concentration is usually 25-27% (the lower number is when the recipe has more hard or fast-moving oils). A good starting point for lye concentration in CP soap would be 33%.

 

[Squeakie]

TBH, I don't do anything different to my recipes between HP and CP, other than changing the amount of water.

However, I don't use the water as percent of oils setting; I use Lye Concentration instead. That makes it easier to have a consistent batter viscosity as you scale up or down. My HP lye concentration is usually 25-27% (the lower number is when the recipe has more hard or fast-moving oils). A good starting point for lye concentration in CP soap would be 33%.

Ahhhh. . .

That's very helpful, thank you! Looking at it from the percentage of lye angle changes how I search for information. I found this, which is very helpful in understanding the concept:

https://www.modernsoapmaking.com/blog/lye-solution-in-soapmaking

I'll play with my recipe in 1 lb batches to see what the sweet spot is!

Thanks again!

 

[Squeakie]

So
I used my standard soap recipe with a 33% Lye concentration and did a 2 lb. CP batch.

I was able to unmold after 24ish hours and the bars look and smell really nice. I used a bit of orange mica to color and used .5 oz EOs per pound, a 10x Orange from Brambleberry combined with Natural Riches Lavender (a nice fresh Lavender) at a ratio of 4:1. These bars smell soooooo good!

Still learning how much to blend before pouring - just emulsified, light trace? It does thicken up as you go, doesn't it, lol. Overall, happy with how they turned out!

Thanks for the tips!

 

[dibbles]

The soaps are so pretty You don’t want to put them on metal racks, though as that can lead to DOS. You can simply put a piece of paper or a cloth between the soap and the rack, or set them somewhere else to cure. I once put freshly made soap on a rack like that which was sold as stainless and a few weeks later DOS formed exactly in the pattern of the rack (which was new). I’d hate to see that happen to your lovely bars. At least mine were only FO testers.

 

[AliOop]

Very pretty! I concur about metal racks.

 

[Squeakie]

Thanks for the tips about racks - pretty sure those are genuine stainless steel, but I usually only use them to transport to coated curing racks. I made a lot of soap over the past week, so I will be sure to take the orange soaps off the stainless, just in case. I do also use ROE at 10 drops PPO, if that makes any difference. Never DOS in 6 years of soap making. We're a big family, though, and soap doesn't usually sit around for more than 6 months.

One of my sons promised to make me a wooden rack similar to the following. I saw the pic on FB and it looks practical and space-saving. Should be big enough for our needs and I can customize the plans before the build.

 

[Kcryss]

I need that soap rack! lol

 

[AliOop]

Thanks for the tips about racks - pretty sure those are genuine stainless steel

Unfortunately, I learned the hard way that most “genuine” stainless racks are just coated with stainless steel, and have other metals underneath that coating. Between the high alkalinity of fresh soap, and normal use that flexes of the wires, the coating cracks and degrades, thus exposing the soap to the metal underneath. Washing the racks in the dishwasher, with the high heat and strong detergent, will hasten this process.

 

[Relle]

Unfortunately, I learned the hard way that most “genuine” stainless racks are just coated with stainless steel, and have other metals underneath that coating. Between the high alkalinity of fresh soap, and normal use that flexes of the wires, the coating cracks and degrades, thus exposing the soap to the metal underneath. Washing the racks in the dishwasher, with the high heat and strong detergent, will hasten this process.

Stainless comes in different grades, while not racks, dh made stainless steel knives using 440C they were a high carbon, high chrome tool steel that he bought from the steel works and yes, they rust, they are still classed as stainless. So unless you know what sort of stainless you have I wouldn't risk it.