Coloring Soap

[Crazy8]

I was on BB's site trying to figure out what I want to use for color in my HP soap. Well, I heard a lot of great things about LabColors here so I started there. Every LabColor seems to say CP and/or M&P. Nothing about HP. So I ruled that one out. Then I looked at pigments and for some reason I started thinking that maybe pigments is the way to go as far as getting "true" bold colors.

FYI right now the only colors I am looking for are white, black, blue, and purple. I also started looking at liquids since a Youtube video I saw of a lady using liquid seemed to be easy and not really any serious color change when the soap was cured. So here is my question. If I want "true" and bold colors what is the best method of coloring to use, and what will work best with HP soaps?

 

[judymoody]

I may be wrong, but if they're safe for CP, they should also be good for HP. You'd be adding the color towards the end of cook, I presume, and the lye should be neutralized by that point and would be unlikely to affect the colors.

 

[Crazy8]

I know that this is slightly off topic, but what is the chemical called again that gets used to check if the lye is neutralized? All I remember is that it turns the sample pink if its still not neutralized but then stays clear when it is.

 

[robtr31]

I know that this is slightly off topic, but what is the chemical called again that gets used to check if the lye is neutralized? All I remember is that it turns the sample pink if its still not neutralized but then stays clear when it is.

Phenolphthalein solution

 

[savonierre]

I was on BB's site trying to figure out what I want to use for color in my HP soap. Well, I heard a lot of great things about LabColors here so I started there. Every LabColor seems to say CP and/or M&P. Nothing about HP. So I ruled that one out. Then I looked at pigments and for some reason I started thinking that maybe pigments is the way to go as far as getting "true" bold colors.

FYI right now the only colors I am looking for are white, black, blue, and purple. I also started looking at liquids since a Youtube video I saw of a lady using liquid seemed to be easy and not really any serious color change when the soap was cured. So here is my question. If I want "true" and bold colors what is the best method of coloring to use, and what will work best with HP soaps?

if they are CP soap stable they are HP soap stable too ime.

 

[Crazy8]

I hate to dig up an old post but one of the things I am still wondering is what (kind) colors tend to give good, strong, true color? I don't like to deal with guess work and I dont want to have to see if an entire batch will turn out as I would want. I like and want consistency. If it makes a difference, I originally thought I may be doing HP but the more and more videos I see, I may end up doing mostly CP. But I may end up doing both at some point in time.

Thanks again.

 

[shunt2011]

There is really no guarantee with any of the colors as I've had colorants that I've used many time and then made a slight change in my recipe and had colors morph that were tried and true in others. However, I use mostly oxides and micas and have had great success with most of them. I have also used the liquid colorants from Nature's Garden with pretty good success as well. TKB Trading and The Conservatorie have some awesome colorants that work well with CP and I would assume HP as well. A lot also depends on if you choose to gel or not.

 

[Crazy8]

If I wanted to prevent gelling would I just let the lye/water mixture cool down to the same temp as the oils (76-ish degrees or so)? Is there any advantages to letting it gel?

 

[Moody Glenn]

Another source for colorants made especially for cp soap making is Celestial Colors. The website link is: http://www.celestialcolors.com/. I highly recommend these beautiful colors. (By mixing colors you can create many shades.)

 

[Crazy8]

Thank you guys very much. I think I have an idea and a starting list of colors to get now. Should be cool to try some micas also. :razz:

 

[jenneelk]

I have quite a few kinds and my go to now are pigments/oxides that I premixed in oil so I could squeeze from a bottle and the discontinued liquid from Natures Garden. They give great color and no idea why they are changing it. Great reviews and right now a good price. I stocked up last order.
Lab colors I tried concentrated and then as mixed like they recommend but I don't like either way. For me I just can't get them to work.

For overall color I use infusions from spices/herbs because its cheaper and less additives for coloring a while loaf/batch.

 

[shunt2011]

If you want to prevent gel you will need to put your soap in the fridge or freezer. I tried celestial colors and have tried them but not a favorite. I've also tried the select shades and find them about the same.

 

[Crazy8]

I did more reading about the gel stage and it doesn't sound like anything really "bad", but just something to be aware of and what it is. I've learned that this is a completely normal stage for it to go through and that it will, of course, cool back down. I also found out that when using loaf or log style molds, there will be more gel, or maybe I should say that the temps that cause the gelling will last longer. When using a tray type mold, the ones that are used for pouring individual bars, will tend to go through the gel phase quicker due to their smaller size. The tray mold style will also give nice cool sides and the gell will tend to be more in the center of the bar unseen.

 

[Nightlilly]

Some places offer sample packs that you can get for around $1 or so. I'm new to soaping and haven't really played with color yet, so last week I ordered a bunch of sample packs. I'm still doing relatively small batches, so I can try out my samples in a batch and if I like them I'll reorder larger amounts.

 

[kazmi]

I did more reading about the gel stage and it doesn't sound like anything really "bad", but just something to be aware of and what it is. I've learned that this is a completely normal stage for it to go through and that it will, of course, cool back down. I also found out that when using loaf or log style molds, there will be more gel, or maybe I should say that the temps that cause the gelling will last longer. When using a tray type mold, the ones that are used for pouring individual bars, will tend to go through the gel phase quicker due to their smaller size. The tray mold style will also give nice cool sides and the gell will tend to be more in the center of the bar unseen.

Yes, gell is a normal stage. You can either gell or avoid gell. If you want your soap in a tray-type mold with individual bars to gell, you may have to help it along. I find that since the bars are smaller, less heat will be held within each bar causing the soap to cool faster. Wrap your poured mold in a heavy blanket and if needed, use a heating pad underneath your mold.