If you are only using lard and canola oil, I would try:Lard seems like a good off the grid alternative but how do I determine how much lard would it take to make canola soap hard. Seems like it would have to be all lard to get as hard as lard soap?
70% lard
30% canola oil
2%SF
38-40% lye concentration
Also, consider dissolving 1-2% sugar (per weight of oils) in some of your batch water, before adding the NaOH. Although it won't change the numbers in the soap calculator, sugar is a solvent that will help the bars lather more easily. High-lard bars do take some time to cure and lather well; 8 weeks is usually a minimum for me. Even then, it takes a few uses before the lather really matures.
Not sure if you saw my post above about obtaining "free" lard by cooking large pork shoulder/butt roasts in your crockpot. Lots and lots of lard will render out during cooking. It is fairly easy to clean - no harder than cleaning the mutton fat that you saved from cooking lamb roasts.The other problem is that the only readily available lard is hydrogenated and I don't know if this affects the soap characteristics.
I don't mind rendering pork fat for pie crust but it's a bit over the hill for soap.
You can actually save any cooking fat, whether it is from beef roasts, steaks, chicken, etc. Chicken fat tends to make a soft soap, so if your goal is hardening the soap, stick with the pork and beef fats. Save them all in a container in the freezer till you are ready to clean it all with a wet rendering process. You won't really be rendering, just cleaning. I used this fat combination for our home-use soaps and call it my "barnyard soap." EDIT: bacon fat and duck fat work, too, but they are far too tasty to waste on soap. I save them for cooking!
But if you want to use hydrogenated lard from the store, that will work, too. I personally haven't noticed any difference in the final soap when using that, vs. what I obtained from saving the rendered fat from my pork roasts.
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