Body Butter changed texture overnight! Is this normal?

[Scottish Alchemist]

I recently made a thick emulsified body butter following a recipe from YouTube. The set up texture and consistency was quite oily and spongy to begin with, but a satisfyingly thick butter as I wanted.

I followed the recipe apart from using Grapeseed oil instead of Safflower oil, and used Geraniol for fragrance instead of E.O or F.O.

I have copied the recipe below.

The cream turned firmer but also very matt and chalky looking overnight, which made it a bit harder to spread.

This texture change has not happened with the few other emulsified body butters I've made (relative beginner here). So my question, is there anything could have caused such a dramatic texture change? The Geraniol perhaps? Or how is the e - wax /cetyl quantity here? Any insights welcome

(I used Cetearyl Alcohol / Ceteareth 20 as my e - wax).

Here's the full original recipe:

Water Phase Ingredients
43.5% Distilled Water
4% Vegetable Glycerin
Oil Phase Ingredients
25% Kokum Butter
10% Cocoa Butter
5% Safflower Oil (I used grapeseed oil)
6% Emulsifying Wax (I used Cetearyl Alcohol / Ceteareth 20)
4% Cetyl Alcohol
Cool Down
2% Fragrance Oil (I used geraniol)
0.5% Germall Plus

 

[Misschief]

I recently made a thick emulsified body butter following a recipe from YouTube. The set up texture and consistency was quite oily and spongy to begin with, but a satisfyingly thick butter as I wanted.

I followed the recipe apart from using Grapeseed oil instead of Safflower oil, and used Geraniol for fragrance instead of E.O or F.O.

The recipe contained 6% emulsifying wax and 4% acetyl alcohol. (I can give full recipe if necessary)

The cream turned firmer but also very matt and chalky looking overnight, which made it a bit harder to spread.

This texture change has not happened with the few other emulsified body butters I've made (relative beginner here). So my question, is there anything could have caused such a dramatic texture change? The Geraniol perhaps? Or how is the e - wax /cetyl quantity here? Any insights welcome

(I used Cetearyl Alcohol / Ceteareth 20 as my e - wax).

I would suggested posting the recipe (or a link to it) so we can better try to figure it out.

 

[Scottish Alchemist]

I would suggested posting the recipe (or a link to it) so we can better try to figure it out.

Thanks for your suggestion, I have added the recipe to the foot of my post.

 

[Misschief]

Just looking at your recipe vs one I've made in the past, I'd say you don't have enough liquid and you're a little heavy on the hard butters.

I've made the emulsified body butter in the link below and, though I love it, I find it a bit on the thick side. She's using a total of 59.5% liquid while your recipe has only 47.5%.

Whole Elise's Emulsified Body Butter

 

[Scottish Alchemist]

Just looking at your recipe vs one I've made in the past, I'd say you don't have enough liquid and you're a little heavy on the hard butters.

I've made the emulsified body butter in the link below and, though I love it, I find it a bit on the thick side. She's using a total of 59.5% liquid while your recipe has only 47.5%.

Whole Elise's Emulsified Body Butter

Thanks for your observation. I think I'll play around with the ratios and have a go at the recipe you've linked to also, thanks. It'll be interesting to see what might make a difference to the chalkiness, if anything

 

[DeeAnna]

When I make any type of emulsified lotion, no matter what the water content is, it always feels greasier on my skin if I apply it right after the lotion is made than if I apply it to my skin a day or three afterwards.

I agree with Misschief -- I think the unusually low water content in your formulation is the most likely reason for the chalky skin feel. The amounts of the other ingredients look reasonable.

If it were my lotion, I'd experiment with increasing the water content without changing the proportions of the other ingredients. I think that may be all you need to get a more spreadable, smoother-feeling lotion.

 

[Scottish Alchemist]

When I make any type of emulsified lotion, no matter what the water content is, it always feels greasier on my skin if I apply it right after the lotion is made than if I apply it to my skin a day or three afterwards.

I agree with Mischief -- I think the unusually low water content in your formulation is the most likely reason for the chalky skin feel. The amounts of the other ingredients look reasonable.

If it were my lotion, I'd experiment with increasing the water content without changing the proportions of the other ingredients. I think that may be all you need to get a more spreadable, smoother-feeling lotion.

Thanks for your insight That's so interesting what you say about lotion losing some of its greasiness a day or so afterwards. I wonder what's happening there. The recipe I refer to took a really dramatic difference in texture, from shiny to matt.
I've looked at the couple of other body butter recipes I've tried and they all have over 60% water and humectant combined, so you could be right about the water content. I look forward to re trying the recipe with that adjusted.

 

[DeeAnna]

...That's so interesting what you say about lotion losing some of its greasiness a day or so afterwards. I wonder what's happening there....

Well, there's a lot of chemistry going on in a lotion what with the emulsifier, water, and fats forming micelles and such. I imagine it takes some time for the emulsion to stabilize into its final physical form.