67% Shea Butter CP - INS 155

[Zany_in_CO]

67% SHEA BUTTER SOAP INS 155 September 15, 2020

Ingredients: Raw Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Oakmoss, Vitamin E, Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, Turmeric, Arrowroot Starch, Fragrance.

11.4 oz. water (323g) (38%)
4.1 oz. NaOH (116g) (5%)
20.1 oz. shea butter (67%)
8.4 oz. coconut (28%)
1.5 oz. castor oil (5%)
30 oz. TOTAL

1 tsp. Turmeric added to lye water (strained)

1 tsp. Oakmoss Absolute (10%) in jojoba oil
1/2 tsp. ROE
2 caps Vitamin E (1,000 IU)
1 Tbls Arrowroot Starch/Flour
1.8 oz. White Ginger & Amber (Cybilla) FO

TEMPS: 120° - 135° F
TRACE: 20-25 minutes

Pour into greased molds. Cover with blankets. Place in draft-free area.
UNMOLD: 24 hours (or when firm to touch.)
CURE: 4 weeks.

Just found 3 bars in my private stash. Here's a pic of one of them.

 

[winusuren]

@Zany_in_CO How good is the soap?? Is it moisturizing??

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Hi @winusuren !

How good is it? I'd give it a 10 out of 10 points. But I wouldn't call it "moisturizing". All of my products are formulated for Colorado's dry climate. My lotion contains 77% water, 16% oils/butter and I would say it's moisturizing. This soap is more like a conditioner. It has a creamy goodness that leaves my skin with a lovely soft silky feel. I don't feel the need to apply lotion after using it. If you live in a humid climate, it may not work as well for you.

 

[AliOop]

Thanks for sharing your recipe! Is there a reason that you grease the molds? I've never had to grease mine, but I use silicone liners or oven liner sheets.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

@AliOop I use baby oil to lightly grease my unlined silicone molds. For two reasons -- easy release and shiny smooth tops and sides.

 

[AliOop]

Thanks, @Zany_in_CO. I was hoping you were going to say "reduced ash." A few of my silicone molds create terrible ash even when I do all of the following: low water, mixing past emulsion, CPOP, alcohol spray, and leaving them covered in the mold for a week. Maybe I will try some mineral oil just to see if it creates a barrier with the silicone that stops the ash reaction (which, btw, is only on the soap faces that touch the silicone - not the face that is open to the air).

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I was hoping you were going to say "reduced ash."

So sorry! As you may recall, I have never had that problem. No DOS either. I don't know why.

I do all of the following: low water, mixing past emulsion, CPOP, alcohol spray, and leaving them covered in the mold for a week.

I don't know if this will be helpful or not, but here goes...

For most of my recipes I use the default settings (water at 38% of oils) on SoapCalc. -- I rarely discount water and I play around with SF 0-5% depending on the results I want to achieve. I have 2 CP recipes that are the exception. I tried soaping at 33% NaOH concentration (and other options) but it just never worked well for me in most cases.

Although not always successful, I pour at emulsion. I rarely CPOP. although there are times when it is helpful. I lay a piece of lightly greased 4-ply Mylar on the top of the batch once it is in the mold but I don't bother with spritzing alcohol. I insulate overnight and unmold the next day. I cut the day after unmolding.

I guess i'm just an "Old School Soaper". So much so that I've thought about changing my handle to that instead of Zany in CO! I always take temps and soap at 110°-120°F for soaps high in vegetable/liquid oils; 120°-135°F for hard oils like tallow & lard. I soap cool with milk soaps, EOs, honey & spices known to be "heaters". I make Plain Jane CP with natural colorants, if any. I don't waste my time doing fancy swirls and layers. That time & expense shrinks the profit margin for one thing and It's just not how I like to roll.

HTH

 

[Mobjack Bay]

@Zany_in_CO pretty soap! I’m wondering what you used to strain the turmeric from the lye water. Can you feel any powder/texture in the soap? I know how much you love oakmoss, but I recently read that it’s a skin sensitizer with a recommended maximum dermal limit of 0.1%. Based on a quick calculation, the final concentration in your soap is less than 0.05%. Can you smell it at that percentage or did you use it as a fixative?

 

[Zany_in_CO]

@Zany_in_CO pretty soap!

Thank you!

I’m wondering what you used to strain the turmeric from the lye water. Can you feel any powder/texture in the soap?

I use a clean pantyhose piece stretched under and over a strainer, if you can imagine that.
The "powder/texture" is negligible if any at all.

I know how much you love oakmoss, but I recently read that it’s a skin sensitizer with a recommended maximum dermal limit of 0.1%.

That's correct. Oakmoss is a sensitizer. And, yes, I do love Oakmoss alone or as an "anchor" in many blends. Think of it as a "secret agent". It plays nice with so many other scents you almost can't go wrong when it comes to adding "depth" to a fragrance. I can barely tell it's there.

Years ago, when I first started soaping, a high school classmate complained of smelling "hamburger" while showering with my lard soap! That's when I learned to use oakmoss to offset the smell of animal fats in soap. In those days, we stuck the tip of a toothpick into the thick viscous absolute and added that to the batch. Later I learned to make a 10% solution by adding 1 oz. Oakmoss Absolute to 9 oz. Jojoba Oil (chosen for its long shelf life) and now add that at 0.7% (1/4-1/2 teaspoon PPO).

Based on a quick calculation, the final concentration in your soap is less than 0.05%. Can you smell it at that percentage or did you use it as a fixative?

I use it to anchor a "light" scent like White Ginger and Amber. The Arrowroot powder is added to help "fix" the fragrance.

 

[Mobjack Bay]

Thanks @Zany_in_CO. I have a ton of turmeric and I’m almost out of annatto. If oakmoss absolute at that low percentage can cancel out the smell of lard, I might give it a try.

 

[AliOop]

@Zany_in_CO thank you. Fortunately, the ash problem only happens with certain silicone molds - not at all the majority of my mold stash. The ashing gets worse with more water, or with thinner emulsions. I truly think it is an issue with some ingredient in the silicone used to make the molds, since it is not an issue with any other molds, as long as I use low water and CPOP them on the heating pad.

Unfortunately, these are some of my favorite detailed molds. However, your idea of greasing them with mineral oil might just do the trick, because it would put a barrier between the soap batter and the silicone. I'll give it a try and let you know how it goes!

 

[Zany_in_CO]

your idea of greasing them with mineral oil might just do the trick

I hope so!!!

If oakmoss absolute at that low percentage can cancel out the smell of lard, I might give it a try.

To save you the trouble, and expense (!), of making your own, I have seen 10% oakmoss EO at a few suppliers. Can't remember where at the moment.
ETA: Or just buy an ounce of the stuff and use a toothpick!

 

[Here To Learn]

To save you the trouble, and expense (!), of making your own, I have seen 10% oakmoss EO at a few suppliers. Can't remember where at the moment.
ETA: Or just buy an ounce of the stuff and use a toothpick!

Hi Zany! Where do you buy/find oakmoss EO? I love the smell but have no idea where to purchase!

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Hey @Here To Learn! For the best price and value for the dollar, I buy essential oils, jojoba oil and emu oil at Sun Pure Botanicals -- owned by 2 gals in NM who have been in business for as long as I can remember. 99.6% rating on Etsy. ☺

 

[Here To Learn]

Hey @Here To Learn! For the best price and value for the dollar, I buy essential oils, jojoba oil and emu oil at Sun Pure Botanicals -- owned by 2 gals in NM who have been in business for as long as I can remember. 99.6% rating on Etsy. ☺

Thank you much!

 

[Zany_in_CO]

You're welcome!

 

[maxine289]

67% SHEA BUTTER SOAP INS 155 September 15, 2020

Ingredients: Raw Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Oakmoss, Vitamin E, Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, Turmeric, Arrowroot Starch, Fragrance.

11.4 oz. water (323g) (38%)
4.1 oz. NaOH (116g) (5%)
20.1 oz. shea butter (67%)
8.4 oz. coconut (28%)
1.5 oz. castor oil (5%)
30 oz. TOTAL

1 tsp. Turmeric added to lye water (strained)

1 tsp. Oakmoss Absolute (10%) in jojoba oil
1/2 tsp. ROE
2 caps Vitamin E (1,000 IU)
1 Tbls Arrowroot Starch/Flour
1.8 oz. White Ginger & Amber (Cybilla) FO

TEMPS: 120° - 135° F
TRACE: 20-25 minutes

Pour into greased molds. Cover with blankets. Place in draft-free area.
UNMOLD: 24 hours (or when firm to touch.)
CURE: 4 weeks.

Intriguing recipe. I'm going to try it. Did you superfat? What is the purpose of the arrowroot?

 

[Zany_in_CO]

What is the purpose of the arrowroot?

Helps to stick the scent.

Did you superfat?

4.1 oz. NaOH (116g) (5%)

 

[maxine289]

Zany, I tried your recipe. It creates a super hard bar, good lather, and a nice feel. Really like it. Thanks for sharing. I'm looking for a really simple recipe that makes a good bar. I've used up to 7 oils in a recipe and that's really too much for me. I think this will be one of my staples; it's simple and to the point. I saw you had a variation of this with 40% shea, 25% CO, 5% CA, & 30% OO or other oil. I'm going to try that also.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

@maxine289 You're welcome! I'm so happy you liked it!