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I very regularly wait a couple of weeks and then wash the ash off my affected soaps. Afterwards, I let them air dry on paper towels, and they have a beautiful gloss.

I use 500 grams baking soda, 250 grams citric acid, and 60 grams of slsa. They give loads of bubbles.

It depends what you want to spend. If you make tiny batches, and want something cheap, the eight inch silicone loaf is pretty decent. Because I make large batches and want to configure a mold to serve different purposes, I have a Soaphutch Uber mold, made out of HDPE. I love it. Nothing...

Those are both just beautiful! I do a Tiger, Tiger with 5X orange EO and anise, which is very popular. I'm trying to imagine what the addition of sandalwood would be like. Hmmm new experiment...

In HP, I add it with the lye water, blend to trace, then cook.

I use it at 3% in every batch of my GM CP soap. In HP, I think the end result is similar to CP - smooth and pourable. I am a big believer in it and highly recommend it to anyone wishing to use individual, detailed molds.

I am not familiar with the company, but I do my salt bars in Crafter's Choice round silicone molds. Easy and beautiful results.

Mantra Swirl You need to be sure that the fragrance you use with this swirl causes no acceleration. The status of your batch should be, at the most, a very light trace. I still think your soap will look pretty.

I bought shallow, wire drawers for closet organizers (Menards). I line my soap up in them and stack them crosswise, because there is a little bit of head room over the bars. Each of these trays is about 20 inches square, and I can store 80 to 100 bars of soap in two of them.

You have a serious overheating problem, I think. That's what the tunneling looks like to me. I would go lighter on the honey and keep your temps down. When I soap with goat's milk and honey, I do it almost at room temperature. I'm sorry for the disappointment you must feel.

TKB sells a tomato red liquid colorant that is stable in CP. It is supposed to be a nice holiday red.

The soaps are lovely, but I am fascinated by the little blue loaf molds! I just found them on Ebay, and I think they are just what I need, so I thank you for sharing where you got them. I am always interested in seeing what other people do with Sleigh Ride. I haven't made mine yet, and I like...

That is beautiful soap. I am not a big lavender fan either, but I recently switched to Bulgarian lavender. I really like it.

I've been thinking about ordering that mold because it would make great kids' soaps with embedded erasers. I'm thrilled to see a link to something cheaper and similar on Amazon.

I seriously want that mold. I have had the same gloppy rose soap - we could be twins! Mine always heats enough to smooth out. Good luck.

SOAPHUTCH for my slabs and loaves and silicone for fun, seasonal shapes.

I have an HDPE Soaphutch divider mold, and it perfectly slides off my soap every time, often before 24 hours have passed. I do use sodium lactate at 3%. I do not oil, line, or use pliers. I have another HDPE mold that is completely the opposite. It is all in the polished surface of the HDPE...

I'm pretty picky about how rebatch soaps look, and I think yours looks great! The colored flecks are really pretty. Even if it discolors, I think it has a nice, fine texture.

I have used rattanjot a lot, and I have never ended up with gray soap. My recipe uses oils that are quite yellow. I do find, however, that it LOOKS very gray, almost like mud, when you are mixing it. The purple shows up upon exposure to air. Even when I cut the soap, the outside is purple...

I have used many of TKB's soap safe micas in cp soap, and I have been very pleased with how they have turned out. I do mourn the fact that the Pops are discontinued, but they do seem to be coming out with some new colors. If you had a color morph on you, I would suggest that you call them...