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Sorry for the late response, but yes. Not an issue at all. You can also make a weapon hard, but mild bar using about: 40% Palm 35% Olive 20% Coconut or PKO 5 % Castor

The digital scale question has already been well-answered so I will tackle the colorant question. Probably the cheapest way to color soap is to start at your own spice rack. I find that turmeric gives a beautiful, warm yellow, cinnamon gives a rich brown, and paprika makes for a nice peachy...

Well....if you leave it undiluted, unwiped, yes it could damage, but so can plain old water if you don't use care. Just put on some gloves like you would with household cleaner.....dilute it in some warm water, and you should be fine! :)

Okay.....well, you could try heating the vanilla to get rid of the alcohol and then soap it and see what happens. I've read a lot of posts about the alcohol causing stuff to seize so I just left well enough alone.

Here's one to plug in to soap calc and see if you like the numbers.....try this on for size as a starting point and play from there! :) Palm 35% Olive 30% Coconut (76 deg, solid) 20% Soybean Oil 10% Castor Oil 5% Here are the numbers for that recipe... Hardness 39 Cleansing 14...

I would do what artisan suggested.....I'd use it to wash clothes, mop the floor and stuff like that. The extra lye in there just bucks up the cleaning, and it's very dilute when used in solution.

I haven't done it, but I would think that very little, if any, fragrance would come through. Are you averse to vanilla FO? Many are very nice and can be had for a reasonable price.

I do HP and I've added castor with the oils and at the end of "the cook." Honestly, I couldn't tell an appreciable difference on my skin, so I don't do it much anymore.....it just adds an unnecessary extra step IMO. I've been meaning to try adding shea post cook but have yet to do it.

Clear ammonia is fine for this soap....you don't need the added detergent. The ammonia works as a water softener like the borax does. A lot of the older home ec books from the early 20th century suggested ammonia for softening water that woolens were washed in, because it's not as harsh (but...

You definitely have to pretreat spots and stains. I use my own stain sticks for that. Also, if I have really heavily soiled clothes, I will up my usage to 1 cup, maybe even 1.5 cups in my top loader. 1/2 cup works fine for lightly soiled stuff. A little bit of Oxy cleaner also helps in the...

By itself, the pureed tomatoes lend a beautiful gold with a tinge of orange to the soap. It's a really nice color and that make the soap special. :)

Don't feel bad....I've had that happen to me too!

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: You sounds as bad as me!

This is just me Carla, so anyone else can chime in. With the exception of salt bars, I cut when the soaps have fully cooled. I cut salt bars when still warm and pliable because they will crumble if cool.

Yes.....most of the saponification will have taken place in the first 24 hours on most soap. Granted that doesn't mean it's ready for bathing, but for utensils and towels, it's fine. :)

Here's another suggestion on what you can do. Take some old kitchen towels and wipe everything out (keeping your gloves on of course). Then set the soaping stuff aside until the next day. Throw the towels into an old plastic bag and set aside for a day or so. When you're ready to clean up...

You'll have to check....some butchers will have it already rendered.

Check the larger supermarkets in your area, and call some local butchers. Some sell tallow.

It's really a very nice thought, but everyone I know who has tried it has ended up with an ugly gray soap; that's why I didn't do it. :(

Hello and welcome! :)