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Pretty happy with how these turned out. Design isn't exactly what I thought I was doing, have small little yellow spots on some I think might be FO or I dropped a bit of gold mica as I was pouring. Scented 1.5oz mad about mint from NS and .6oz rosemary EO.

You can use a non-serated knife.

https://thesoapbar.blogspot.com/2011/06/happy-blooooz.html I think its soda ash not salt bars. It says it is oatmeal and coffee grounds.

I think it is soda ash. Pouring and emulsification and not gelling gave me thick soda ash. I stick all my cavity molds in the oven on dehydrate to make sure they gel. Soda ash can be thick, chalky and soft.

vacandlesupply on ebay says they ship worldwide, I just don't know if it will be worth it.

Wood bleaches use lye to whiten.

Shame we can't see the other bars. It almost looks to me like the tops of bars made in a slab mold.

I searched your posts and found this https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/patchouli-and-anise.78169/

You could make a wood jig, attach 2 pieces for a angle, attached to flat piece of wood to set the loaf in and slide it through one of those wire soap cutters. I plan to do that type of soap design too but will build my jigs first. There's a really primitive looks at what I'd make.

I went super easy, I did a 100% olive oil soap with a cheapy stick blender. I stick blended for what seemed like forever and it barely got past thin trace, I thought I did something wrong. I was glad the next day when I unmolded it had turned out well. Not soft or anything.

If the laurel berry is green from chlorophyll maybe it's good it did stay green. Chlorophyll reacts to light and helps oil go rancid. I checked my castile soap last night and it has dos on it. I stopped using the evoo after that batch because I didn't like the green hue.

I made 100% olive oil soap 3 months ago and it still has light green color. I made it with extra virgin olive oil that was naturally green in color.

https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/special-sales/deep-discounts/sale.aspx

I don't think the heating pad will get it hot enough. You'd need to do it in an oven. Just be aware if you do it in the oven you need to watch it good and make sure it doesn't get too hot. When I tried it with a batch that didn't gel the bars warped, oven was @ 120°f. Now I wish I would have...

I took inspiration from this post. Top and bottom scented with WSP nag champa and will discolor to a pretty good brown. Center is unscented, uncolored as I was hoping for better bleed from the indigo. Looks like I won't get the pretty blue/green from the inspiration pic. Mine looks purplish.

I think when it oxidizes it will turn blue again. Indigo can go blue to yellow to green and back to blue.

I think the powder she is using is indigo or something like that not charcoal. The second layer poured was plain soap batter but the finished soap is showing green and blues from bleeding.

The notes on this fo say "This sophisticated fragrance has the aroma of sweet citrus, blooming jasmine, and blond woods. The enchanting smell of an exotic rainforest." WSP had this on sale for $10 1lb bottle 2 weeks ago. In the bottle I can smell jasmine. After using it in cp, I'm not...

I was actually looking for a way to create soda ash. (I was asked if I can make soda soap, so I went looking and found that you can't use baking soda in CP. My next guess was to create a soap with a good amount of soda ash. If anyone was wondering.) Post #9 was interesting to me. I ran across...

Thank you, I will definitely remember that :)