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Its pretty smooth. I find a model I like, and download the .stl file and load it into Cura. Cura is a slicing program, and translates the model into gcode - which is what is sent to the printer. This is where you have to set the temp of the print head and the build plate, resize and...

Here are 3 soap dishes I have printed from thingiverse.com I like the first one best, but the fractal abstract design is close. The honey comb one is a bit small, but it's at my printers max build area.

Hello. Welcome aboard. While I agree with the others that is partial gel, my advice is to use less water if you want to prevent it, not soap cooler. You are using quite a bit of liquid, and with a olive oil soap, I'd recommend a 35 to 40 percent lye solution. That will help speed up trace...

http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/ Half way down, on the right, look for Visual Tutorials. There are lip balm and lotion guides

The site messed up the links she posted. Should be: http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/products/warm-vanilla-sugar-fragrance-oil.aspx http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/products/pear-glace-fragrance-oil.aspx

I also like Green Tweed. But Perfect Man is pretty good.

I have never had an issue with this either. I would take a bar of one of the soaps and go as far away as you can from the curing area - maybe even outside. Give your nose a break for a minute - maybe take some coffee beans to smell to reset your sniffer. Then see if you still smell that they...

Is 1.76 oz the amount of milk you added? If so this is not correct - as that milk is not 100% fat. Most of us do not figure the milk fat into our recipes - and I don't think any of us add it to our liquid soap. I think you would be better off calculating to a 0% SF. Then whatever % milk fat...

Glycerine rivers are not caused by TD. TD just makes them more visible. You get them when your soap gets hot and then cools down slowly. To prevent them, you need to use less water in your soap or not insulate your soap as well so it can cool quicker after gel phase. I think the reason that...

Don't put too much faith into those numbers. They are a rough guideline - but I also don't think upping the SF a bit is that bad of an idea.

I would use the one with the lowest SAP. This would lead to a bit more superfat is it was actually beef - so you might drop your SF by 1 % or so.

You really do not want to do such large batches as practice. I would not do more than 1 pound batches until you are comfortable. Not only for cost - but also because if you make a bunch of bad soap, you might scare off all your testers.

You should always use distilled/RO water when making soap. It should not come into contact with tap water until it hits the shower to be used.

Windows machines have a program called Snipping Tool. You start it up, and click the New button, and then draw a box around whatever you want to make a screen print of. You can then save it as a jpeg and upload it like you would a pic from your phone or camera.

Hide under a rock from Nov 1 to Dec 16th.

Not really. I have not begun modeling my own things yet - I am trying to make sure I have the settings dialed in and I get the hang of what is a good design and what isn't. there are very active FB and reddit groups for the printer - so you can get help from people who have experienced it all...

Even a true - 1 SF bar won't stay lye heavy for long. The alkali will react with the air with time.

That sounds like you have water soluble TD and are mixing it with oil. Look at the description of what you ordered and it should tell you if you have water or oil

Technically yes. If your NaOH is 100% pure (it won't be, there will be traces of impurities from the manufacture process), and has not come into contact with air (which has CO2 and water vapor - but we don't work in a vacuum) then there will be a slight excess of lye. SO actually - not really...

Here is my test print.