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Seeing these just sends me back. To a long, long time ago. When I could still walk under the table that I still own. It was the kitchen table but has been repurposed. Something about the coats of paint under what you can see. yes, we used to use lead paint back in the day.... It will never...

I would feel cranky using it to make soap.... Sorry, I just had to.:lol:

Just my 2 cents ... I have found that when I use TD I do want a bit more water. I *think* it has to do with all the tiny bits of TD wanting to grab on to water molecules.

I like to be around 8 for my cleansing number. A little lower is okay but much higher and I begin to dry out. SF is 2 to 3 anymore. I started out higher but over time it has gotten to the level of my mentors here. Reckon they knew what they were doing all along. I am a lard user and I like...

Hasn't been here in a long time but the information he left behind helped me - many years ago.:nodding:

I had forgotten about soy wax to harden soap too.:beatinghead: It's one that I use fairly regular too. I watch the cleansing number more than the conditioning number. I have old skin so I don't want a soap that cleans too much oil off my hide.

I would go for the longer cure. I took the time to crunch the numbers and the cleansing number is fairly low (8) and the "conditioning" number is fairly high (59). The SF number will be changed by the use of citric unless you compensate for the acid. Conditioning is in quotes because soap does...

From the fatty acid profile "Lasting" is Palmetic + Stearic . Using vinegar as water (and compensating for the acidity of the vinegar with you sodium hydroxide) will make your soap harder and less soluable. I did not whip out my google fu and look up the old threads but we had a set of long...

Man. That is hard to take. Soap in smaller quantities and pace yourself in all things. Take care of you and hubby. I know you will miss the challenge of the shows but I would rather have you around here for years to come. I'm selfish that way. Accept treatment and follow a good daily plan...

I go complicated. NOT I use 100% coconut oil and add an equal weight of salt. Soap rocks starting at 6 months. ANY salt bar will harden faster than the same recipe without the added salt. BE SURE you watch the first couple of batches so you can cut it. I waited too long on my first batch and...

Oops. My bad. I shoulda looked at the section I was posting in.o_O:nonono:

I embrace the discoloration and make swirls with it. Starts out all cream colored but as they cure the swirls just magically appear. I like your soap!! Even if it didn't come out as planned.

Lye plus organic=brown. Almost every time. There are a few that can be infused into oils that will give other colors (annetto (sp)) but usually brown is the result. Lye eats things.

Iodine - As a general rule, the lower the number, the harder the bar and the less the conditioning qualities and vice versa. A recipe with iodine values higher than 70 will tend to produce a somewhat soft bar of soap. Definition: number of grams of iodine that will react with the double bonds...

Freezer paper will line almost anything to make a mold for soap. Ace/ TrueValue sells lye in the drain cleaners ( Household 100% Lye Drain Cleaner). Dollar store for coconut oil (7.5 ounce for a buck) BiMart for the stick blender. WalMart sells 4 cup measuring cups for less than a dollar each...

1. A vulture boards an airplane, carrying two dead raccoons. The stewardess looks at him and says, "I'm sorry, sir, only one carrion allowed per passenger.” 2. Two fish swim into a concrete wall. One turns to the other and says, "Dam!” 3. Two Eskimos sitting in a kayak were chilly, so they lit...

You are most welcome. I had the honor of learning a great deal participating in that thread. And others... Welcome to the forum!!

https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/how-to-use-vinegar-to-harden-your-soap.59295/ Is a good thread to start your journey...

It's ALIVE!!! o_O:nodding:

I miss recovery meetings.