# Solid Dish Detergent



## lsg

I found this on Ariane Arsenault's YouTube channel, this morning.  I think I will try it and thought some of our members might be interested too.


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## hungryhawaiian

Interesting! Now I want to try it. I already have washing soda for making homemade laundry soap. Now go get the other ingredients....


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## Misschief

Humblebee & Me has a tutorial as well. I'm fascinated. @lsg have you tried it yet?

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## Clarice

hungryhawaiian said:


> Interesting! Now I want to try it. I already have washing soda for making homemade laundry soap. Now go get the other ingredients....


Is your homemade laundry detergent liquid or powder?  Thanks. Looking for. Good powder recipe. Using up last of Charlie’s. I end up using less than 1/4 of the directed amount and clothes re v clean and I get less fading.  I think detergent makers are in cahoots with clothes makers to wear our clothes out!


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## Misschief

So, because I had all the ingredients, I made a small batch of the Humblebee & Me recipe. I made one substitution; instead of baking soda, I used washing soda. Both my husband and I love it! I showed him how well it worked with what was left on my spatula, cleaning a couple of pots and a frying pan. Colour me impressed! It's perfect for a quick wash up.


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## hungryhawaiian

Clarice said:


> Is your homemade laundry detergent liquid or powder?  Thanks. Looking for. Good powder recipe. Using up last of Charlie’s. I end up using less than 1/4 of the directed amount and clothes re v clean and I get less fading.  I think detergent makers are in cahoots with clothes makers to wear our clothes out!



I make powder laundry soap. Nothing fancy and mostly with scrap pieces of soap that I don’t use or give away.


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## Clarice

@hungryhawaiian do you just grind up the left over bits?  Thanks


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## hungryhawaiian

Clarice said:


> @hungryhawaiian do you just grind up the left over bits?  Thanks



I use a cheese grater. The smallest. Then blast it with borax and washing soda in a blender and or food processor (I have both just for workshop projects).


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## Misschief

I made another tub of it today. I found out from my granddaughter that, though they have a dishwasher, it isn't working. I have a feeling my daughter will love this stuff as much as I do.  I'm using mine daily. I seriously love this stuff and John's suggesting I make it for the market as well. Although, considering where the market is (a higher end of the city), I'm pretty sure the majority of my clientele have dishwashers.


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## artemis

Misschief said:


> Although, considering where the market is (a higher end of the city), I'm pretty sure the majority of my clientele have dishwashers.



Yes, but there are always dishes that need a hand washing, either because they don't fit in the load, or because they aren't supposed to go in the washer. I have a dishwasher and I'm still hand washing certain items daily.


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## Hendejm

Misschief said:


> I made another tub of it today. I found out from my granddaughter that, though they have a dishwasher, it isn't working. I have a feeling my daughter will love this stuff as much as I do.  I'm using mine daily. I seriously love this stuff and John's suggesting I make it for the market as well. Although, considering where the market is (a higher end of the city), I'm pretty sure the majority of my clientele have dishwashers.


I bought the ingredients to try also. It’s great to hear that you really like it. That may be my Sunday funday project! Thx for the inspiration!


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## SaltedFig

Misschief said:


> I made another tub of it today. I found out from my granddaughter that, though they have a dishwasher, it isn't working. I have a feeling my daughter will love this stuff as much as I do.  I'm using mine daily. I seriously love this stuff and John's suggesting I make it for the market as well. Although, considering where the market is (a higher end of the city), I'm pretty sure the majority of my clientele have dishwashers.



A few of the folk I know do a "pre-wash" (to get most of the grease and gunk off first), before putting the dishes in the dishwasher, so maybe there still might be a market?


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## Misschief

artemis said:


> Yes, but there are always dishes that need a hand washing, either because they don't fit in the load, or because they aren't supposed to go in the washer. I have a dishwasher and I'm still hand washing certain items daily.


Thank you for this.


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## dibbles

@Misschief I also have to hand wash some dishes most days. Pots and pans and knives mostly. People love hand made cleaning/laundry types of products. I'd test the waters at least.


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## lsg

We have a dishwasher too and as was stated, there are always some items that don't go in the dishwasher.  I have stopped putting my glass coffee carafe in the dishwasher because I had to replace it several times because of cracks.  I think it was getting bumped in the dishwasher.


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## Misschief

Thanks all. I haven't had a dishwasher (apart from John) in over 15 years. I think I will be restocking a couple of ingredients and will give it a go.


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## hungryhawaiian

Misschief said:


> I made another tub of it today. I found out from my granddaughter that, though they have a dishwasher, it isn't working. I have a feeling my daughter will love this stuff as much as I do.  I'm using mine daily. I seriously love this stuff and John's suggesting I make it for the market as well. Although, considering where the market is (a higher end of the city), I'm pretty sure the majority of my clientele have dishwashers.



My personal mentality is that there’s always a market for everything, you just need to market the product the right way or educate the market the right way. Sometimes the product needs a little help, so you pick the qualities that best suit the market and you boast the heck out of it. Never lie, though. Like I said, pick the qualities for the market. 

Example, kids! Kids hate washing dishes. Well guess what? This solid dish detergent cleans faster and better than conventional soap, so you’ll be able to get back to your iPhone lickitty split! 

Grandma! It cleans better and safer than regular dish detergents and it won’t leave your hands dry and flaky. 

Rich folk who have dish washers! This is the best pre rinse you could use that’ll keep your dishwasher clean and clear from clogs and expensive fixes down the road. (Dishwashers collect a lot of crap in the bottom and people neglect cleaning it since it’s out of sight and out of mind). 

I could go on but you catch my drift, I think! 

I have a question for you all in regards to this solid dish detergent:

Can sodium cocoyl isethionate be used in place of sodium coco sulfate?


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## lsg

The recipe in the video I posted uses both, but you could try using just SCI in a small batch to see how you like it.


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## Misschief

hungryhawaiian said:


> I have a question for you all in regards to this solid dish detergent:
> 
> Can sodium cocoyl isethionate be used in place of sodium coco sulfate?


You could try it in a small batch, I suppose. 
Maria (Humblebee & Me) writes: 

You could use powdered Sodium Lauryl Sulfate instead of theSodium Coco Sulfate. I’d recommend sticking to sulfate surfactant because they kick so much greasy butt.


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## JasmineTea

@Misschief, I've made Marie's (Humblebee & Me) dish paste and love it!  I always keep some on hand, mainly for cleaning the bathtub, sinks, and some special dish projects (like getting tea stains out of my mugs).

I've made the recipe as given, but prefer to use half baking soda/half pumice.


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## IrishLass

I just ordered all the ingredients to make the Humblebee & Me version.


IrishLass


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## Hendejm

IrishLass said:


> I just ordered all the ingredients to make the Humblebee & Me version.
> 
> 
> IrishLass


Mine have been sitting in my amazon shopping cart waiting for me to pull the trigger.  I’ve got to stop spending!!!


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## Jeboz

I thought I might try Ariane's 2nd version with both SCI and SCS (seeing I have both) but with germail plus as a preservative and maybe D-Limonene if I can find it for less than $55. Ariane doesn't use preservative - do you think I should include it?


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## DeeAnna

I haven't watched Arianne's video to see how she packages it. The Humblebee version is packaged in an open jar, and you swipe your damp cleaning sponge or cloth over the detergent as you need it as you clean. This will contaminate the surface of the detergent with food particles and general grime as well as bacteria and fungi.

We've had similar discussions about other paste-type products and whether a preservative is necessary. For sugar scrubs, I think the general consensus is yes, preservative is important in scrubs. These scrubs are usually packaged in open jars so the user can easily use damp fingers into the container to remove the product and the mix of sugar and fat with a bit of water makes a great buffet for microbes to feast on.

Another paste-type product is the firm KOH soap paste (the thick gel that you dilute to make pourable liquid soap) that some people use for household cleaning. The consensus there is that preservative is not strictly necessary for KOH soap paste, because true lye-based soap is alkaline by nature and that alkalinity discourages microbial growth.

The detergent cleaner that Arianne and Humblebee are sharing is going to be alkaline to some degree, although the alkalinity of the finished paste will vary depending on the types of detergents you choose. I doubt the detergent cleaner will be as alkaline as KOH soap paste, however, so I'm not as confident that a detergent paste can be self preserving the way a soap paste can be.

Because most of us don't have a microbiology testing lab to know for sure, we have to make educated guesses about things like this. IMO, for personal use, it's up to you to make the call whether to use preservative or not. Again IMO, a preservative is needed if you plan to sell or give this product to others. But in the end, the decision is yours to make.


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## lenarenee

Hendejm said:


> Mine have been sitting in my amazon shopping cart waiting for me to pull the trigger.  I’ve got to stop spending!!!



I found much better prices at Save on Citric (although haven’t looked at shipping yet....still working on finalizing my order)


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## lsg

I made Ariane's first recipe today with SCI flakes and the SCS noodles.  It worked great.  I did use a preservative in my batch.  If you are using SCI flakes, I recommend running the flakes through a  food prcessor to break them up.  The flakes take longer to melt than the noodles.  Her recipe is so easy to make and doesn't take long.  From my observation, I think one could just put a little dab of this paste in the dishpan and run hot water over it to melt.  Mine made a lot of bubbles.


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## IrishLass

lenarenee said:


> I found much better prices at Save on Citric (although haven’t looked at shipping yet....still working on finalizing my order)



That's where I bought all mine, except for the d limonene and Liquid Germall Plus- they only had d limonene in very large drums and they seemed to be out of the LGP. I ended up buying the d limonene from the Amazon link Marie (Humblebee) provided on her site and the LGP from Lotioncrafter (I need some other stuff from there, too so I just added it on).



lsg said:


> I made Ariane's first recipe today with SCI flakes and the SCS noodles.  It worked great.  I did use a preservative in my batch.



lsg- which preservative did you end up using in Ariane's formula, if you don't mind my asking?


IrishLass


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## lsg

I used Liquid Germall Plus


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## IrishLass

Thanks, lsg!


IrishLass


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## Jeboz

[QUOTE="Because most of us don't have a microbiology testing lab to know for sure, we have to make educated guesses about things like this. IMO, for personal use, it's up to you to make the call whether to use preservative or not. Again IMO, a preservative is needed if you plan to sell or give this product to others. But in the end, the decision is yours to make.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the detailed info DeeAnna. I was pretty sure I should use some which is why I purchased some that Humblebee suggested. The French sites seem to suggest (I don't read French) that the essential oils provide 'disinfectant' qualities. I think I prefer the liquid germail plus.


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## shunt2011

There’s a difference between disinfectant properties and stopping mold or other bugs that can grow. I vote for the safety of preservative.   I too have ordered the supplies I didn’t have to give this a go.


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## JasmineTea

Re: swiping a damp cloth over the paste ~
Instead of doing that, I use a clean, dry spoon to dish out approximately how much I think I'll need in a cleaning session. I swipe my sponge across the spoon to reload the sponge.

If I estimated wrong and need more, I can easily clean/dry the spoon and dip more out. If I dipped out too much, I usually just use the rest to clean out a sink or two, or find a baking sheet with some dark stuff on the bottom to scrub off.

So, I definitely use a preservative, but also go the extra step of keeping wet, germy, crumby, grease-filled items out of the jar of paste.


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## IrishLass

Yay- I finally received all my ingredients to make this soap paste! Guess what I'm doing tomorrow?


IrishLass


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## JasmineTea

@IrishLass, Can't wait to hear how you like it!


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## IrishLass

Well, I made it and just tried it, and wow! Super bubbly stuff! Following Jasmine's method^^^, I scooped a little out with a dry spoon....maybe 1/8 tsp. worth.... smeared it onto my wet, netted dishcloth, just barely rubbed it in, and bam- instant bubbles galore! I washed a few bowls and cups and utensils that were sitting in the sink, and still had so much soap left on my cloth that I could've washed a whole sink full of dishes with just that little bit, I'm sure of it. Me likes!!!


IrishLass


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## shunt2011

I’m going to give it a try tomorrow or Sunday.  Excited now.


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## IrishLass

Have you tried it yet, Shari?

Today, just to  see how little of the paste I could get away with using, I just did one gentle swipe across the top of the paste with my damp dishcloth, which didn't look like much of anything, and I was able to wash all the dishes in the sink this morning, which was a half sink-full, and there were still suds on my cloth when done.  

For what it's worth, in case you end up using the recipe amounts posted on Humblebee & Me's blog on her website like I did, which are slightly different than the amounts posted under her video, it makes 3 volume ounces.

Even though I bought the smallest amounts of each of the surfactants at Save On Citric, I have enough of the Cocamidopropyl Betaine and the Bioterge AS40 leftover to keep me in paste for several years, although I might have to get more of the SCS noodles and d- limonene at some point sooner. lol I'm thinking gifts of the paste are in order, and also possibly trying my hand at HumbleBee & Me's Soothing Foaming Hand Wash recipe, which uses the Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Bioterge, to help use them up.


IrishLass


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## shunt2011

No, going to give it a go tomorrow.  At least that’s the plan.  Sounds really promising.


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## dibbles

I ordered what I didn’t already have on hand to give this a try. I don’t have d-limonene so plan to use up some lemon EO. I plan to make a big enough batch to give some away to see what others think.


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## dibbles

I was planning to make the Humblebee and Me version because I think I'd prefer a paste, but I didn't remember the bioterge AS40. I don't know a whole lot about surfactants, and am wondering if I could substitute the Cocamidopropyl Betaine? Or something else? Or maybe I should just make Arianne's recipe since I have everything for that.


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## DeeAnna

The Bioterge is a name brand version of generic C14-16 olefin sulfonate.

I've subbed polysorbate 80 for C14-16 and I'm sure CAPB would work too. PS80 and CAPB are probably not as bubbly as C14-16, but IMO these surfactants are included to add mildness, not bubbles, and also be a source of liquid in the recipe. The SCS will make plenty of bubbleage.


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## dibbles

DeeAnna said:


> The Bioterge is a name brand version of generic C14-16 olefin sulfonate.
> 
> I've subbed polysorbate 80 for C14-16 and I'm sure CAPB would work too. PS80 and CAPB are probably not as bubbly as C14-16, but IMO these surfactants are included to add mildness, not bubbles, and also be a source of liquid in the recipe. The SCS will make plenty of bubbleage.


Thank you DeeAnna. I have PS80 so will give that a try. Hopefully tomorrow.


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## atiz

dibbles said:


> Thank you DeeAnna. I have PS80 so will give that a try. Hopefully tomorrow.


I have done all 3 versions (with Bio-Terge, PS80 and CAPB) at different times. The Bio-Terge one is the most bubbly and I think (but it's hard to measure) it has more cleaning power as well. Maybe it has to do with the different charge and pH of the surfactants? Anyway, all of them work, just not quite the same.


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## DeeAnna

I agree the Bioterge/C14-16 version may be more bubbly and more cleaning. I'd be comfortable using either of the other two, however, especially for a trial run. 

The recipe for shampoo bars that a kind soaper friend gave me also calls for C14-16, but I subbed PS80 in its place, since I didn't have the C14-16 at the time. I do now, and I need to make a new batch of 'poo bars. I'll be sure to compare.


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## dibbles

atiz said:


> I have done all 3 versions (with Bio-Terge, PS80 and CAPB) at different times. The Bio-Terge one is the most bubbly and I think (but it's hard to measure) it has more cleaning power as well. Maybe it has to do with the different charge and pH of the surfactants? Anyway, all of them work, just not quite the same.


Thank you atiz.


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## linne1gi

I've made the Humblebee and Me version three times so far.   I really like it as it's perfect for washing up just a few dishes.


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## Soapymumma

I'm a first time poster  
I have made 4 of my own versions of a solid dishwashing block/paste. I'm happy with 3 out of 4.  I have made Hubblebee and Me and the French/Canadian lady on You Tube (sorry just can't think of her name!) and I like them both for different reasons. I would prefer a more solid block though.
I found a solid block online that states it is incredibly hard.  Looking at the ingredients I can't see what is making it so hard??  Does anyone here know how to decipher....?
Sodium Cocoate*, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate*, Decyl Glucoside*, Quillaja Saponaria Extract**, Glycerin*, Aloe Vera, Purified Water, Sodium Carbonate
https://notoxlife.com/collections/zero-waste/products/zero-waste-dish-washing-block-single

Finally does anyone know if Sodium cocoate and Potassium cocoate can substitute for each other.  I can only buy potassium cocoate in my country.  
Thanks in advance. This is an awesome group )


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## lsg

This from Bramble Berry--"Potassium cocoate is a natural liquid surfactant made from coconut oil and glycerin. Use it to add bubbles to liquid soap, shampoo, and scrub."

Sodium cocoate sounds like it is soap made from coconut oil and lye.


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## DeeAnna

Sodium cocoate is soap made with coconut oil and NaOH. It makes a hard soap. 

Potassium cocoate is soap made with coconut oil and KOH. It makes a soft soap. 

The two will clean probably equally as well, but if you want a HARD soap, you will want to use sodium cocoate. If you don't mind a softer product, potassium cocoate is fine.


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## lsg

Well Duh!  I must be losing my mind.  If I know what Sodium Cocoate is, then it stands to reason potassium cocoate is soap made coconut oils and potassium hydroxide


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## DeeAnna

I have to translate these names too, @lsg. I never use "what comes out of the pot" method for my ingredient lists, so the "-oate" names for the finished soap always take a bit of head scratchin' for me to figure out.


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## Soapymumma

Thanks guys. Back to the drawing board for me


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## IrishLass

Soapymumma said:


> Thanks guys. Back to the drawing board for me



If you have access to sodium hydroxide (NaOH), I don't see why you couldn't just make this type of hard dish soap from scratch with coconut oil, sodium hydroxide, and the other ingredients listed. 


IrishLass


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## atiz

IrishLass said:


> If you have access to sodium hydroxide (NaOH), I don't see why you couldn't just make this type of hard dish soap from scratch with coconut oil, sodium hydroxide, and the other ingredients listed.
> 
> 
> IrishLass


This may be a very basic question, but would you  just add the surfactants to the CO soap batter? That sounds so strange to me for some reason. But otherwise I don't see how you get everything mixed...
I have been using the HB&M version of the detergent for a while now, and really love it.


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## IrishLass

atiz said:


> This may be a very basic question, but would you  just add the surfactants to the CO soap batter? That sounds so strange to me for some reason. But otherwise I don't see how you get everything mixed...
> I have been using the HB&M version of the detergent for a while now, and really love it.



Disclaimer: I have never done this (yet), but the decyl glucoside is a liquid, so that particular surfactant should be easy to just add to the batter. SCI is more tricky....it is soluble in surfactants and only somewhat soluble in water...... I've read that it is commonly mixed with decyl glucoside in order for it to dissolve nicely (with a little applied heat and stirring), so if it were me, I would dissolve it in the decyl glucoside before adding it to the batter.

Kevin Devine of Divine Soaps has a couple of "Soaping with surfactants" videos where he added different surfactants to CP soap that may be of some help:






IrishLass


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## atiz

IrishLass said:


> Disclaimer: I have never done this (yet), but the decyl glucoside is a liquid, so that particular surfactant should be easy to just add to the batter. SCI is more tricky....it is soluble in surfactants and only somewhat soluble in water...... I've read that it is commonly mixed with decyl glucoside in order for it to dissolve nicely (with a little applied heat and stirring), so if it were me, I would dissolve it in the decyl glucoside before adding it to the batter.
> 
> Kevin Devine of Divine Soaps has a couple of "Soaping with surfactants" videos where he added different surfactants to CP soap that may be of some help:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IrishLass



Very interesting, thank you @IrishLass! Yes, I have worked with both of the surfactants before, just never thought of mixing them into soap. SCI is pretty hard to dissolve; you have to heat it for quite some time, and when you take it off the heat it starts to crystallize quickly. So I guess you would have to work there pretty fast, hoping meanwhile that the soap batter doesn't seize....  
Maybe some experiments are in order  Thanks again for the videos.


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## Soapymumma

Thankyou both. For being curious and for the information. I feel confident to pull stuff out and start experimenting. I follow Kevin but hadn’t seen either video! 
Much appreciated I’ll try and report back in time


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## Saranac

atiz said:


> SCI is pretty hard to dissolve; you have to heat it for quite some time, and when you take it off the heat it starts to crystallize quickly. So I guess you would have to work there pretty fast, hoping meanwhile that the soap batter doesn't seize....



My favorite bar of CP soap (for personal use--not a dish soap) is a blend of soap and sodium cocoyl isethionate, and I don’t see why you couldn’t make a bar with coconut oil and SCI as your oil phase, and sodium carbonate added at trace.  I make hybrid bars, and I make surfactant shampoo bars, but each process (for me) is very different with _no excessive heat required_ _when making soap_ with a finely ground SCI.  

In my experience, the SCI that’s finely ground--like the *SurfPro SCI** from Lotioncrafter--blends nicely into my fats and oils _without a lot of heat_ (my hybrid bar is mostly lard, so I don’t like to overheat the fat and oils).  I’ve used SCI at levels from 5 - 20% in varying batches with no problem.  As long as I make sure to blend out the lumps, the resulting soap is smooth (i.e. no grittiness).  For me, the key is to mix the SCI into a small amount of oil (or melted fat) rather than adding it to all of the oils.  I use an amount of liquid oil or melted coconut oil that is equal to the amount of SCI to form a smooth paste with the surfactant before adding the rest of my fats and oils.


*The SurfPro SCI is about 55% sodium cocoyl isethionate; the balance is coconut fatty acid, so I take that into consideration when deciding on a discount rate for the NaOH.


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## atiz

Saranac said:


> My favorite bar of CP soap (for personal use--not a dish soap) is a blend of soap and sodium cocoyl isethionate, and I don’t see why you couldn’t make a bar with coconut oil and SCI as your oil phase, and sodium carbonate added at trace.  I make hybrid bars, and I make surfactant shampoo bars, but each process (for me) is very different with _no excessive heat required_ _when making soap_ with a finely ground SCI.
> 
> In my experience, the SCI that’s finely ground--like the *SurfPro SCI** from Lotioncrafter--blends nicely into my fats and oils _without a lot of heat_ (my hybrid bar is mostly lard, so I don’t like to overheat the fat and oils).  I’ve used SCI at levels from 5 - 20% in varying batches with no problem.  As long as I make sure to blend out the lumps, the resulting soap is smooth (i.e. no grittiness).  For me, the key is to mix the SCI into a small amount of oil (or melted fat) rather than adding it to all of the oils.  I use an amount of liquid oil or melted coconut oil that is equal to the amount of SCI to form a smooth paste with the surfactant before adding the rest of my fats and oils.
> 
> 
> *The SurfPro SCI is about 55% sodium cocoyl isethionate; the balance is coconut fatty acid, so I take that into consideration when deciding on a discount rate for the NaOH.


Thanks, this is very helpful.
I have never made anything hybrid (never even thought about it) just some regular syndet things (shampoo etc.) that I use SCI for. I think the SCI I have is the noodles, so probably that's why it's harder to dissolve; I usually dissolve it in coco betaine or something like that, and it does require heat. But I can see that oils would work well to mix it into and then soap as usual.
Will try it; thanks!

ETA: started a new thread about this; sorry for the hijack. Back to dishsoap.


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## Soapymumma

Update 
I made a test batch with 10% sci (powder- I ground it in a coffee grinder), 10% decyl glucoside and added 2% sodium carbonate at trace. 
I was able to Unmold at around the 4hr mark. It’s definitely a hard bar! I think it will work well on the sponge at the sink but I doubt you can run water over it to give bubbles to wash up. With the bumblebee and Le Fille De La Mere (Arriene)  versions you can run under water nicely and use with sponge as well. Our family loves the bumblebee version performance buts it’s too soft. My husband goes through this stuff like crazy. He’s so heavy handed with it and loves lots of suds/bubbles. I’m hoping a solid bar would be better. The other one by Arriene is slimy in our water and doesn’t cut through grease as well but is a bit more solid and lasts longer. It’s fun experimenting though. Thanks for everyone’s input it has certainly helped I’m going to see what adding d-limonene does to these bars next.


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## Fiona Robertson

Soapymumma said:


> Update
> I made a test batch with 10% sci (powder- I ground it in a coffee grinder), 10% decyl glucoside and added 2% sodium carbonate at trace.
> I was able to Unmold at around the 4hr mark. It’s definitely a hard bar! I think it will work well on the sponge at the sink but I doubt you can run water over it to give bubbles to wash up. With the bumblebee and Le Fille De La Mere (Arriene)  versions you can run under water nicely and use with sponge as well. Our family loves the bumblebee version performance buts it’s too soft. My husband goes through this stuff like crazy. He’s so heavy handed with it and loves lots of suds/bubbles. I’m hoping a solid bar would be better. The other one by Arriene is slimy in our water and doesn’t cut through grease as well but is a bit more solid and lasts longer. It’s fun experimenting though. Thanks for everyone’s input it has certainly helped I’m going to see what adding d-limonene does to these bars next.



Is this using a 100% coconut oil recipe with a 20% superfat ?


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## linne1gi

Fiona Robertson said:


> Is this using a 100% coconut oil recipe with a 20% superfat ?


Just my opinion but I wouldn't think you would want a 20% superfat.  Probably 100% coconut oil with 0% superfat.  You wouldn't want that extra oil in a cleaning product.


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## Fiona Robertson

linne1gi said:


> Just my opinion but I wouldn't think you would want a 20% superfat.  Probably 100% coconut oil with 0% superfat.  You wouldn't want that extra oil in a cleaning product.



Thanks for the speedy reply @linne1gi - I never even knew a solid detergent existed!!  I came on here for a quick look this morning and have now been lost in learning for nearly 2 hours!!


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## linne1gi

Fiona Robertson said:


> Thanks for the speedy reply @linne1gi - I never even knew a solid detergent existed!!  I came on here for a quick look this morning and have now been lost in learning for nearly 2 hours!!


Try the humblebeeandme.com version.  It's easy, quick and relatively inexpensive if you have the ingredients handy. https://www.humblebeeandme.com/super-concentrated-lemon-dishwashing-paste/


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## Fiona Robertson

linne1gi said:


> Try the humblebeeandme.com version.  It's easy, quick and relatively inexpensive if you have the ingredients handy. https://www.humblebeeandme.com/super-concentrated-lemon-dishwashing-paste/



Oh that's made my head burl (scottish expression for brain overload!!) .  I'm always a bit scared of ingredients that I can't pronounce, but I'm sure if I take my time I can decipher this and have a go, thanks again


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## DeeAnna

Fiona Robertson said:


> Is this using a 100% coconut oil recipe with a 20% superfat ?



You're talking about true soap made with fat + lye. This thread is discussing a synthetic detergent cleanser, not soap. 

If you want to use soap for dishwashing, Linne's right -- you don't want 20% superfat if you want the best cleansing power. But even if you drop the superfat to 0%, you'll find true lye soap to be disappointing for washing dishes. That's especially true if you want to put the soap in a sink full of water. It won't lather for long and won't necessarily cut grease very well. 

I have to run or I'd explain further ... but this gives you the essential reason why we're discussing a syndet cleanser, not soap, for dishwashing.


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## cmzaha

The problem with making a syndet cleanser is the fact it will cost you considerably more money than purchasing "dish detergent". Think about how well soap cleans oil off your hands, and while, 100% CO cleans quite well it is pretty brutal on the hands. I keep a jar of 100% CO paste for some heavy-duty cleaning at times.


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## Fiona Robertson

Aw Ok, I thought this was along the lines of making a basic coconut soap recipe and adding the synthetic ingredients.  Anyway its definitely not a goer if its too expensive...thanks for replies everyone xx


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## DeeAnna

Read the first page of posts and you'll get more info about the kind of product being discussed -- it's all right there.


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## Soapymumma

Fiona Robertson said:


> Is this using a 100% coconut oil recipe with a 20% superfat ?


no superfat.


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## Fiona Robertson

DeeAnna said:


> Read the first page of posts and you'll get more info about the kind of product being discussed -- it's all right there.



Oh sorry, I thought post 47 by Soapymumma was referring to a solid bar soap not a paste, I shouldn't read stuff until I've had at least 2 coffees to get my brain going!!


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## DeeAnna

Yes, she's talking about a solid bar, but it's not strictly soap if you look at all of the ingredients in the list.

The product discussed in Post 47 is a combination of true lye-based soap (sodium cocoate) and synthetic detergents (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Decyl Glucoside). Syndet-soap cleansers are sometimes called combars.

Commercially produced combars are fairly common -- For example, if you read the labels on Dove cleansers, you'll learn they're combars --

Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate, Stearic Acid, Sodium Tallowate Or Sodium Palmitate, Lauric Acid, Sodium Isethionate, Water, Sodium Stearate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Cocoate Or Sodium Palm Kernelate, Fragrance, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Edta, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Titanium Dioxide

Syndet ingredients: Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate, Sodium Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Soap ingredients: Sodium Tallowate Or Sodium Palmitate, Sodium Cocoate Or Sodium Palm Kernelate

Source: https://www.dove.com/us/en/washing-and-bathing/beauty-bar/white-beauty-bar.html​


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## Fiona Robertson

Going back to Ariane or Humblebee's paste do you think a product such as this would work as an ecofriendly alternative to SCI?:

https://www.aromantic.co.uk/home/products/detergents-surfactants/sugar-detergent.aspx


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## lsg

SCI is usually in powder or noodle form that needs to be melted.  When I cools, it helps harden the bar.  The sugar surfactant is liquid.  I don't think that you will get a solid bar using it.


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## DeeAnna

I agree with lsg. You certainly could sub the decyl glucoside mix for any liquid surfactant, but I don't think _any _liquid surf would work as a sub for the SCI if you want the product to be solid.  

Also, decyl glucoside and cocoamidopropyl betaine are both mild cleansers. In a product meant for cleaning greasy dishes, I'm not sure they would work as well as other surfs. I could be wrong on this point -- I haven't used them for this purpose, so this is just my opinion.


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## Fiona Robertson

Ah OK...seems so obvious now that you have explained it all so clearly, thank you


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## lsg

Just an update.  DH just got through taking apart the trap of our kitchen sink because of drainage problems.  He said it looked like a bar of soap was caught in the trap.  I had been using the solid dish detergent.  It looks like bits and pieces of undissolved detergent got caught in the trap.


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## Gaisy59

I finally made the Humblebee and Me version of the paste. Wow! I really like it and i made some samples for a couple of other people and they love it. But now some questions:
Has anyone else found it harsh on the hands?
I just recently had a quartz countertop installed. Will this stuff be ok on the finish?
Finally, has anyone used this to clean their acrylic bathtub?

TIA for any replies.


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## shunt2011

lsg said:


> Just an update.  DH just got through taking apart the trap of our kitchen sink because of drainage problems.  He said it looked like a bar of soap was caught in the trap.  I had been using the solid dish detergent.  It looks like bits and pieces of undissolved detergent got caught in the trap.



That's a good heads up.   Thanks for sharing that important information.


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## linne1gi

Gaisy59 said:


> I finally made the Humblebee and Me version of the paste. Wow! I really like it and i made some samples for a couple of other people and they love it. But now some questions:
> Has anyone else found it harsh on the hands?
> I just recently had a quartz countertop installed. Will this stuff be ok on the finish?
> Finally, has anyone used this to clean their acrylic bathtub?
> 
> TIA for any replies.


I haven’t noticed the harshness on the hands but I’m a nurse and my hands are pretty used to harsh conditions! I’ve made Marie’s version probably 5 times now and I love it.


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## Gaisy59

linne1gi said:


> I haven’t noticed the harshness on the hands but I’m a nurse and my hands are pretty used to harsh conditions! I’ve made Marie’s version probably 5 times now and I love it.



Yes i love it as well. No one has responded yet as to whether or not it is harsh on counter finishes or acrylic tubs. Fingers crossed that there wont be a problem.


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## Soapymumma

Gaisy59 said:


> I finally made the Humblebee and Me version of the paste. Wow! I really like it and i made some samples for a couple of other people and they love it. But now some questions:
> Has anyone else found it harsh on the hands?
> I just recently had a quartz countertop installed. Will this stuff be ok on the finish?
> Finally, has anyone used this to clean their acrylic bathtub?
> 
> TIA for any replies.


I’ve been using it for 10 months and haven’t noticed any dryness aside from the normal winter dry skin. Though I did tweak it for a firmer block. So not sure if that’s why.


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## Gaisy59

Soapymumma said:


> I’ve been using it for 10 months and haven’t noticed any dryness aside from the normal winter dry skin. Though I did tweak it for a firmer block. So not sure if that’s why.



What do you mean by firmer block?


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## linne1gi

Soapymumma said:


> I’ve been using it for 10 months and haven’t noticed any dryness aside from the normal winter dry skin. Though I did tweak it for a firmer block. So not sure if that’s why.


I actually don’t like it as much when it gets firmer - dries out.


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## Misschief

Gaisy59 said:


> Yes i love it as well. No one has responded yet as to whether or not it is harsh on counter finishes or acrylic tubs. Fingers crossed that there wont be a problem.


I've used it on my tub but it isn't an acrylic tub.


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## Gaisy59

Misschief said:


> I've used it on my tub but it isn't an acrylic tub.



Ok im sur it would be fine then. It is such a great degreaser.


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## Soapymumma

Gaisy59 said:


> What do you mean by firmer block?


Hard like soap. I find my husband uses too much when it’s softer.


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## Gaisy59

Hey Soapymumma why dont you put a 1/8 tsp scoop beside paste then that is all he would use?


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