# Tips on Facial Soaps?



## cursivearts (May 17, 2013)

I've gathered some stuff from searching past threads, like what clays are best for what, but a lot of the information seems to differ and I have yet to find any recipe suggestions, but maybe I am missing something.  So a few questions:

How much clay ppo do you like to use?  When you use EOs for their properties (ie lavender and tea tree) do you use as much as you would to fragrance it or considerably less?  What are you favorite oils for facial bars?   How much do you like to superfat?

I want to make both an oily skin bar (me) and a dry skin bar (my husband).  The biggest issue I find with most facial bars I have used in the past is they tend to be toooo drying, which I think could be counteracted with a good cleansing oil and a higher superfat, but I could be wrong.  I want to each recipe fairly simple, as the more oils and additives, the more likely I am to forget something.  I plan on using french green in the oily and kaolin (french white) in the dry.  But I also want to hear what has worked for other people!

TIA!


----------



## Mockingbird Ramble (May 17, 2013)

I made a face bar that works wonders on my skin, I follow the oil cleansing method in the winter and still rub jojoba oil on my face after I use my bar. 

I went for a low cleansing lard, olive oil, castor, coconut and jojoba and high-ish superfat.  Used tea tree at trace with activatred charcoal and butermilk powder. 

I can not find my formula which sucks because it is an awesome bar for my skin.  I made a tiny batch 250 grams so I am going to have to figure it out afain.


----------



## cursivearts (May 17, 2013)

Do you have oily or dry skin, Mockingbird?


----------



## Mockingbird Ramble (May 17, 2013)

Winter I am pretty dry, then summer I am a little on the oily side.  I spend all day outdoors, sweating like a logger (which is actually what I did all last year) so being able to clean pores, but not strip protective oils off my face was important.

I get pimples that never come to a head, just ugly red bumps, and my pores get BLACK but unless I cant wash my face for a week or more I dont get the black heads. 

I get the hormone acne mostly.


----------



## Clemmey (May 17, 2013)

Well about a year ago I made a soap for my babyshower guests that was SOOO popular! Guess what, it was a facial bar recipe! I tweaked a recipe that I found on Soap Queen's blog and it is WONDERFUL! Since I was so new I didn't do any additives, and it turned out marvelous. My friends still want the "ugly" pieces from that batch, the ones that you hide and rebatch because they are not "presentable"... they want those! lol


----------



## lizflowers42 (May 17, 2013)

I dunno, I used to use a bar soap called Cuticura or something like that on my face until I started making my own soap and my skin looked better using that than the facial soap I made using the Teach Soap recipe!  I think it is too drying for my oily skin and so my pores are working overtime to compensate.  I am thinking I am going to make an uncolored castile soap and add in some french green clay and tea tree oil for acne next...


----------



## mel z (May 17, 2013)

lizflowers42 said:


> I dunno, I used to use a bar soap called Cuticura or something like that on my face until I started making my own soap and my skin looked better using that than the facial soap I made using the Teach Soap recipe!  I think it is too drying for my oily skin and so my pores are working overtime to compensate.  I am thinking I am going to make an uncolored castile soap and add in some french green clay and tea tree oil for acne next...



liz, I can't say it enough, I have problem skin. But, I have gotten older and that includes weary skin and skin allergies. I've tried a few of the popular skin bars but they are not for my skin. Castile works best for my face, with a good superfat (not what you wanted to hear given a good cure time). I've added some OO soaked calendula, with calendula strained out before soap making, and that is okay too. 

What works for my body doesn't work for my face anymore. I was disappointed when the *Masters* of soap recipes didn't work for me, however, I realized what works for one may not work for another.


----------



## Miz Jenny (May 17, 2013)

Our climate is ultra dry so skin hydration is very important.  I made a very simple soap calling for sweet almond oil, fractionated coconut oil, water & lye. It's all I've used for a year and I love it. I also make my face moisturizer: co & fco. My skin looks better than in my 40's (65 in July). I'm gonna have to rethink it, though, because of the low melting point and summer and it turns to liquid and doesn't travel well. LOL Thinking of adding cocoa or soy butter, along with the co & fco. Any thoughts on that?


----------



## cursivearts (May 17, 2013)

I think that's the big issue with a lot of facial soaps for 'oily' skin, lizflowers.  It's always too drying.  I am thinking of making a lower cleansing, higher conditioning soap, but add the french green clay for drawing out oils. If I use any essential oils, they will be very minimal.  I have calendula-infused OO I will use. Anyone know what the ppo for french green clay is (for it's properties, not it's color)?: I've seen everything from 1 tsp to 1 T.  

I have been using a facial bar I bought off Etsy awhile back and I love it; it leaves my skin feeling clean but not dry and tight which I think is the key.  I'll just have to wing it from there on dry skin (maybe a higher superfat and the white clay?).  I have never ever had a dry skin problem, so that one is harder for me to solve....


----------



## Lotus (May 17, 2013)

I have never liked putting anything on my face. Nevertheless, I'm really interested in this thread. Great read, guys. : )

Edit: I have dry skin. Definitely not oily.

Edit again: Don't you all find it interesting that some people just have oily skin, and others have dry skin? Such a strange thing for humans to have in such variation.


----------



## Bicycle808 (May 17, 2013)

I make soap.  I don't make any claims to any voodoo properties, nor do I try to tell folks how/where to use it. I hawk it as "all purpose" and leave it at that. I just make it, sell it, and make some more.

That being said, my best-selling soap is a OO/PO/CocoO/CastO amalgamation, 5% superfat, with green tea, rolled oats, and ginger.  Most of the folks who use it are ladies who go on about how they like it for their face; some say it's moisturizing, others say it prevents them from breaking out.  I understand a bit about oatmeal's properties, but I can't say for sure how it translates to use in soap.  (I can say that I just de-molded and milled 38 four-oz bars of it...)

All I know is, I'm happy that they're happy.  Maybe try some oatmeal in your soap, instead of (or in addition to) esoteric clay additives?

HTH
-Rob


----------



## cursivearts (May 17, 2013)

I am going to try the clay, because I have the clay on hand (they sell it at the local bulk/health food store that is literally right down the road).  Ironically, the only oatmeal I have in my house is microwave cinnamon spice. Lol.  I normally have baby oatmeal, but they last time I went to buy some they only had banana baby oatmeal or multigrain so I went with multigrain and I'm not sure how much good barley and spelt are for the face, haha.  Though ground barley might be an interesting thing to add to beer soap?  Hmmmm....


----------



## Miz Jenny (May 17, 2013)

Actually, I'd classify my skin as normal. Too rich or too lean causes problems. I've found the perfect balance.


----------



## paillo (May 17, 2013)

I cannot use anything but salt soap on my face without major breakouts - not even my mildest, most favorite soaps. In summer I use an activated charcoal one 'cuz I spend a lot of time out sweating in the yard. Wintertime it's pink Himalayan salt. Counterintuitively, salt bars help balance the skin's pH and I don't find them too drying at all. I go heavy on the clays in these, too. Dead Sea mud in the black one, French pink and kaolin in the pink one, and essential oils.


----------



## Bicycle808 (May 17, 2013)

cursivearts said:


> I am going to try the clay, because I have the clay on hand (they sell it at the local bulk/health food store that is literally right down the road).  Ironically, the only oatmeal I have in my house is microwave cinnamon spice. Lol.  I normally have baby oatmeal, but they last time I went to buy some they only had banana baby oatmeal or multigrain so I went with multigrain and I'm not sure how much good barley and spelt are for the face, haha.  Though ground barley might be an interesting thing to add to beer soap?  Hmmmm....




Ground barley would be interesting in pretty much any kind of soap.

I think I'm going to try soaping with ground flaxseed soon, b/c the stuff is cheaper than air at the Asian market (typically sold as "alsi"), and I want to test my theory that white women will buy ANYthing with flaxseed in it.  :Kitten Love:


----------



## Lotus (May 17, 2013)

Bicycle808 said:


> Ground barley would be interesting in pretty much any kind of soap.
> 
> I think I'm going to try soaping with ground flaxseed soon, b/c the stuff is cheaper than air at the Asian market (typically sold as "alsi"), and I want to test my theory that white women will buy ANYthing with flaxseed in it.  :Kitten Love:



Ha! I take it you're not white? I don't personally take particular interest as to what's in your soap. I just know when I like a bar. (I'm a white woman. : )


----------



## Bicycle808 (May 17, 2013)

I'm white, but I'm not a woman.  I'm just an analytical person, and I've noticed some patterns with the flaxseed, is all.:lolno:


----------



## Lotus (May 17, 2013)

That's cool. : ) Thanks.


----------



## cursivearts (May 17, 2013)

Bicycle, let me know when you make that flaxseed soap.  I bet my mother-in-law will buy it.  I'm a white woman and I don't think I've ever bought anything with flaxseed in my life, but I know exactly the kind of woman you're talking about.  I live near that part of town in my city, where there is an Earth Fare across the street practically from Whole Foods and a local health food store 5 minutes in the other direction.  Of course, these are the same women that will freak out if you tell them lye is in soap.


----------



## CaraCara (May 17, 2013)

Hmmm..flax seed.  Would be good for a kitchen or scrubby type of soap.  Personally it shreds my innards so I steer clear of ingesting it or the oil, but I've got a big bag of it in my pantry that I was feeding to a pet mouse.  Wonder how fast it would go rancid if it was finely ground. I agree with Rob about oats in facial soap. My skin is very oily but products for oily skin leave it feeling stripped so I am using one of my oatmeal honey milk bars I made and the difference is noticeable.


----------



## Bicycle808 (May 18, 2013)

cursivearts said:


> ...  Of course, these are the same women that will freak out if you tell them lye is in soap.




"But, but,but... there's no lye in Bronner's!"roblem:


----------



## Bicycle808 (May 18, 2013)

CaraCara said:


> Hmmm..flax seed. ...Wonder how fast it would go rancid if it was finely ground.



For something like flaxseeds, I think it'd be more a question of going stale vs going rancid.  Flax oil (aka linseed oil) has a short shelf life, but I think something dry like the seeds would go bad in other ways....


----------



## cursivearts (May 18, 2013)

I dunno, Bicycle.  A lot of seeds and grains have a pretty decent shelf life.  I think most seeds purchased as food items are thoroughly dried to prevent germination and, well, rot.  As long as the seeds are fully dry, there shouldn't be too many problems, no more than there are with poppy seeds or what-have-you.  If you have a dehydrator, you could dry them a little further just to make sure.


----------



## Bicycle808 (May 18, 2013)

Yeah they should last a really long time, but when they do go, they'll likely go stales (ie, become too dried out).  I used to make a lot of bagels, and the poppy seeds definitely became stale after a pretty looooong time.  The sesame seeds, thankfully, we use in other recipes,so no worries there.

If the flaxseed soap is successful, I'll follow it up with a sesame oil/sesame seed effort.  See how that goes. Sesame oil smells too strong IMO, but I  reckon it might be appropriate when "sesame" is the theme....


----------



## Amybell (May 18, 2013)

My favorite (so far) recipe for my face is just my regular soap formula wih green clay and equal parts tea tree and peppermint oil.  It doesn't dry too much, and it really seems to calm my skin.  I have sensitive skin, and I've had issues with adult acne since I was about 25.  My breakouts have lessened and healed more quickly since I started using it.


----------



## Ancel (May 18, 2013)

Would also be interested in hearing how the flaxseed goes. It's very popular here as a hair gel / conditioner. Wonder how the mucilaginous quality would come across in the soaps. But then maybe if it was added ground at trace it wouldn't have time to get gloopy. Interesting . . . 

For facial bars I really like the sound of green tea and clay.


----------



## mel z (May 18, 2013)

Bicycle, try flax seed oil. And you are correct it is very trendy for some reason. The seeds would scratch.

Miz Jenny; for a face butter in addition to adding the cocoa butter add some shea butter. It will stay hard with your sweet almond and other ingredients, but I find too much cocoa butter to be drying, at least for my skin. Of course you could try adding just a bit of beeswax, but I think that would make it heavy and hard to apply. Just my experiences with body butters with oil.


----------



## lizflowers42 (May 18, 2013)

I made my castile face soap this morning (lavender/tea tree EO with green clay for additives).  Now I just need to wait until Christmas to try it...lol


----------



## bodhi (May 18, 2013)

Bicycle808 said:


> "But, but,but... there's no lye in Bronner's!"roblem:



Yeah, but there really isnt any castile in bronners either...

I might have to try a flax soap too, im liking that idea.  Thanks bicycle.

For an all purpose facial soap, i like nice clay or charcoal.


----------



## bodhi (May 19, 2013)

CaraCara said:


> Hmmm..flax seed. ...  Wonder how fast it would go rancid if it was finely ground.



For eating, once flaxseed is ground its good for only about a day.


----------



## Bicycle808 (May 19, 2013)

i just bought some alsi (flax seed) at my favorite grocery tonight.  400gm for $1.99.  I already have the oil, bought for a similarly cheap price at the same place about a month ago.

I'm gonna prolly grind it up and soap with it tomorrow. Someone up-thread said that the ground flax seed will be scratchy; that's ok, some folks like stuff to be scratchy.  (Coffee grinds are good.)  So long as it doesn't make me bleed... :shock:

I'll post up a thread once it's done.  Maybe other flax enthusiasts will do the same....


----------



## Miz Jenny (May 19, 2013)

mel z; Miz Jenny; for a face butter in addition to adding the cocoa butter add some shea butter. It will stay hard with your sweet almond and other ingredients said:
			
		

> Thanks, ma'am, I will try that. It's just for me and I make a small batch, so, if I don't like it...
> 
> Jenny


----------



## jaysam (Jul 16, 2013)

Giving yourself a home facial treatment is not difficult and can do  wonders for your complexion. If you can follow a few simple directions  and facial tips, there is no need to spend your hard earned money on  expensive treatment procedures and products at your local salon.


A  daily home facial procedure to clean, tone and preserve moisture level  is crucial to prolonging healthy facial skin. Clean your skin soundly at  least twice a day and exchange your pillow slip frequently. Especially  important is the nightly washing, which gets rid of collected skin oils,  makeup, and grime.


*Washing Tips*
If you  have oily skin, apply a liquid or bar soap developed for your skin type;  rinse off thoroughly. Dry skins flourish on super fatted soap, creamy  washes, or purifying creams; normal skins can call for a mild soap or  cleansing agent. Thorough washing is vital.


Most skins, except  extra sensitive or very dry types, call for occasional exfoliation . Conduct this with a  scrub cleanser or by working across your face very lightly with a rough  face cloth or an scratchy puff dampened with soap.


*Toning Tips*
Freshen  up the skin following cleansing and get rid of any left over impurities  by passing over your face with a cotton ball drenched in skin  freshener; avoid the sensitive eye area. If your skin is greasy, use an  alcohol-base astringent. Dry skin profits from a mild, herbal toner,  which frequently is all the cleansing required in the morning. A  freshener ought to make your skin tingle and feel tight. If it stings,  it's too potent.


*Moisturizer Tips*
Normal  and dry-skinned faces, also dry regions on an oily face, benefit from a  thin layer of moisturizer put on after toning and prior to makeup. If  your skin is very dry, or if you reside in a frigid or dry climate,  apply an emollient ointment to your skin right after the nighttime wash.


*Do It Yourself Home Facial Treatment*
To get rid of deep-seated impurities and perk up circulation, you can give yourself a facial treatment. 

_1. Boil some water, adding 2 chamomile tea bags for an herb fragrance. 
2. Remove all makeup and cover up your hair with a shower cap. 
3. Pour out the water into a washbasin, drape a towel over your head  to entrap the steam, and hold your face roughly 1 foot above the water  for about 10 minutes. 
4. Daub your face dry, than put on a mask. Don't apply the mask too  near to your eyes, mouth or hairline. Leave on as instructed; remove it,  and then rinse off with cool water and put on moisturizer._


----------



## kattobrn (Jul 16, 2013)

My favorite face cleanser is simply equal parts coconut oil and baking soda. You'll only need a little bit, it is a great face scrub. I use it 2-3 times a week (at night) then use coconut oil with vitamin e as my "facial cream". On the othe days I use my soap and my lotion bar for moisture. Most people think I am in my late 20's, which I am not.


----------



## harmonynme (Aug 14, 2013)

*On facial soaps: My advice? Don't*

Having made soaps for years, I tried to perfect a facial soap - never worked. I studied, and tried every cosmeceutical soap bar on the market. Didn't work. I tried it on oily faces, and on mine, very dry, mature.  I've researched, studied, and formulated products for troubled skin and aging skin for years; and work with cosmetic chemists, as well. The pH of the skin is very delicate, and the cleanser must be pH balanced. You CANNOT measure that with a solid soap. 

A _daily_ solid facial soap does not exist that's good for the skin (note the emphasis on _daily_.) 

Yikes, :thumbdown:is all I can say when using castille soap on the face _especially_ aging skin. We're in the age of cosmeceuticals, guys, take advantage of it! I do!

A once a week soap, perhaps, made with clay, essential oils, sure. I made one myself with french pink clay,  a little rhassoul, cupuacu butter, lots of other amazonian oils, butters, camellia oil (great for mature skin) rose geranium and rose essential oil (yes it was EXPENSIVE, I only made 4, and I KEPT ONE!! hee hee!) but would *NEVER* use it as a _daily_ facial soap. 

That being said, there's simply no way of getting around the best cleansers of all - those with alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids, and you cannot get them, or enough of them, or the right balance of them, in bar soap. 

I make a foaming cleanser, using fruit acid alpha hydroxys, and beta hydroxys (great for acne, because they can get deep into the pores, clearing them out, and create a sterile follicle). Someone here mentioned blackheads around the nose. These are exactly what BHA's are for. 

Moreover, as a foaming cleanser (no one with mature skin should use a milky cleanser), I'm able to add extracts, botanicals, therapeutic essential oils, because the alpha/beta hydroxys enable them to travel deep into the pores, acting as a carrier - balancing the skin, or healing the skin, further. So, you also have a cleanser that can multi -task too. For instance, a cleanser formulated for dry skin _with _acne. 

I have written EXTENSIVELY about AHA's/BHA's for anti-aging, and anti-acne (http://etesianplantaceuticals.tumblr.com/day/2013/06/14 in my "Alpha/Beta: Separating Hydroxy Acid Truth from Myth and Skin Care Health" as well on the subject of Beta Hydroxy Acids: "Salicylic Acid: Natural vs. Synthetic and Why It’s Important".

In fact, I'll post my before/after photo from a teenage test subject  with severe acne who used my 5 part DermaDefense Acne Kit over 3 month period. Now, *TO BE CLEAR,* it was not the BHA/AHA cleanser alone in which these results were achieved, as I said in the former sentence, but a result of *5 products* working together. 

A year and a half ago, I had given him my bar soap cleanser. The actives were: active manuka honey, goat milk (lactic acid), salicylic acid, citrus essential oils, peels (exfoliation), tepezcohuite, and more. It certainly had been a best seller for me - and still have people asking for it, but barely achieved any results. 

I went back to the drawing board. I studied, worked with cosmetic chemists, with a crash course on skin chemistry, and 4 months later, formulated a natural liquid cleanser, with the fruit acid AHA/BHA's. The BHA part was salicylic acid from Aspen Bark. Some of the ingredients from the soap made it in to liquid - the tepezcohuite, active manuka honey, citrus essential oils (and 10 more). the results were incredible; as you can see from the photos. 

The other one I make is for mature skin (with a tendency towards breakouts) and I use it everyday. I can totally feel the difference when I skip a day.

Again, I still get customers who request the citrus soap, but I won't make it. I've just learned too much about the skin's function. And while it's a great body soap, I fear my customers would use it as a facial soap, even if I caution against it, and I don't want to be a co-conspirator, albeit an unwilling one, in the long term damage it will cause. 

That's my input on soap as a daily face cleanser, from my in depth, 4 year, trial and error, educational experience on the subject.


----------

