# opps, too much water



## margali13 (Oct 18, 2010)

I decided to try this CP soapmaking thing as an alternative to making sweets for my family for the holidays.

I made one mixed oil batch on Sat and it turned out fine 

Then I decided to make a pure castille and I accidentally got water from the tap into my oil as I was trying to cool it down to get the temp of the water and oil the same.  Doh!

I decided to just go ahead and mixed the oil (and extra water) with my lye and water solution.  I got them to mix well, but they didn't trace like my first batch did.  The solution was too liquidy.

I decided to try putting it in the oven for a little bit to maybe heat off the water, but I didn't leave it too long because I was worried (what happens if you overheat the mixture?)

So I just poured it and thought to myself, maybe it will just take longer to harden?

Has anyone else ever added too much water?  What can I do now to fix it or is it fine or beyond help?  I hope it turns out ok...


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## IanT (Oct 18, 2010)

margali13 said:
			
		

> I decided to try this CP soapmaking thing as an alternative to making sweets for my family for the holidays.
> 
> I made one mixed oil batch on Sat and it turned out fine
> 
> ...



Fear not!! you can actually rebatch it (kinda an abridged version of CPHP, the crock pot hot process method)... basically just as you were trying to do, you can evaporate off some of the excess H20 by cooking it off (just dont do it in the oven, its harder to watch and you need to stir it etc...)

how much extra water are we talking about? a cup? a half gallon?


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## margali13 (Oct 18, 2010)

I would estimate it was 1/2-1 cup extra water.

Should I just leave it in the mold for a couple of days and see if it hardens up?


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## Chris-2010 (Oct 18, 2010)

With the correct amount of lye for the oils, the soap should saponify about the same, but the soap will be extra-moist.  So leave the soap in the mold a couple days longer than normal (uncovered toward the end), then cut the bars carefully to avoid finger-dimples, then dry the bars a bit longer than you normally would.


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## TessC (Oct 18, 2010)

How large was your batch? My castile already takes quite a while to harden if I don't take a water discount, so yours may take a long time to set if it's a large % of extra water. I wouldn't toss it or do anything drastic right away in any case, just set it aside and be prepared to give it a nice long cure (castile really benefits from a long cure) and see how it does, sometimes those "oops" batches come out just fine in the end.


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## margali13 (Oct 18, 2010)

Awesome.  I will try not to worry about it and just give it extra time.  It was a batch with 630 g (22 oz) of olive oil and 8oz of water with the lye measured out.

Gosh, this soapmaking takes patience   Do you get used to waiting so long for the bars to cure once you've made lots of batches?


THANKS!!!!!!!  I appreciate your help.


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## IanT (Oct 18, 2010)

lol yeah if its only a little bit like that, just leave it in the mold til it hardens... ive had some soap that came out like jello pretty much, but left it to harden for like 1 -2 months and it was the most mild soap i ever made


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## margali13 (Oct 22, 2010)

*!*

Thanks again for all your help!  I just unmolded the soap and cut it up today.  it's still kinda squishy, but I think it'll dry out more now that it's cut up.


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## Chris-2010 (Oct 22, 2010)

Great.    And don't be impatient about drying.  Our absolute minimum is 2 weeks, and often 3 or 4.  Consider a dehumidifier if there is humidity, and a gentle fan during the whole drying time will help to circulate air between the separated bars in order to facilitate evaporation.

Your drying time will probably be even longer.  I don't make Castile soap, but, um, I'm told that curing and drying are longer.


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