# Fragrance in the soap



## VeronikaM123 (Aug 2, 2014)

Hi everyone, I am new to the forum and also new to
soapmaking, have made just 2 loaves until now. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 Hope you apologise me if I ask something which has been answered, but there are soo many threads here...

I have a simple question. What do I do wrong if my soaps dont smell much with the essential oils I add? 

In the first batch - lavender soap - I admit I made a mistake which I am aware of: I added a very small amount of EO and did it wrong - I added it to the oil base ,
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 not after trace. So thats probably the reason. It smells rather oily than lavender.

The second was a better batch on general, I was much more prepared and used all the process right... but again: though it smelled very strong at trace and although the soap smells very nice even now (I made it 2 weeks ago, it is still drying), when I wash my hands with it, it doesnt smell at all with the fragrance, theres this oily smell again. Not bad, but would expect sth better. Now I bought some new EOs, and they should be stronger. But dont want to waste them, they cost much more.

Would it be a solution to avoid the gel phase? Is it possible that the fragrance loses its power during gel phase??

Then, another problem: I used a recipe with approx 50 % olive, 20 % palm, 20 % coconut ois, 10 % shea butter. And the soap is very drying. Is 20 % coconut oil too much? I have a very sensitive skin with dermatitis, so I need sth less drying.

Thanks in advance for your answers!!!


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## seven (Aug 2, 2014)

how much EO did you use? adding the scent to the oils and not after trace should not matter to the final product.

the rate for EOs generally 3-5% from total oils.


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## Jaccart789 (Aug 2, 2014)

I generally find that it also depends on the brand of EO you use. Your recipe would not be drying to me, but I have normal to oily skin, so maybe add some avocado oil and take out the palm. You already have coconut, so maybe that is why its too drying for you.


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## Obsidian (Aug 2, 2014)

I have really dry skin too. Try lowering your coconut to 15% and use a 8% superfat. For scent, I use .50oz per pound of oil in the recipe.


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## Lion Of Judah (Aug 2, 2014)

you did not state the size of your batches you made nor did you state the amount of EO ppo you are using ppo/ also you did not state your SF % .  20% CO and 20% PO in your soap gives a low cleaning number on the soapcalc and the overall conditioning is nice , its a nice hard bar. did you gel your soap ? depending on how much you used and the flashpoint of the EO the heating process of gel - ing will kill some of the scent .... plus did you use anything to anchor your scent with ?


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## jules92207 (Aug 2, 2014)

I have also found after the cure my soap isn't as drying so how long has it sat? Also some of my eo's hide in my soap. I can't smell them till I get in the shower and start lathering.


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## VeronikaM123 (Aug 3, 2014)

Hey, thanks everyone for your replies. 
Well, I have now tried a handmade soap from a professional manufacturer I have bought some soaps from, they use just natural ingredients too. I used their patchuli and grapefruit soap and it was so amazing, the smell lasted hours on my body. Now I tried their lavender soap - and guess what! Yes. It smells the same like mine! Almost no lavender, just oils.
Can't it be a problem with lavender? 
Concerning the recipe, I use soap calc of course, and their resukt wasnt a very drying soap, so I dont know. But I'll try to lower the amount of coconut oil next time and sth else. In fact, I use it just because everyone generally says it should be in the soap... Not that I would need it  
Concerning curing, how do you know when exactly the soap is ready for use? I have not found a clue yet. The pH is OK and was already after one day, so... Is there any other really reliable method how to recognize it?
And regarding gel phase: I would like to try a soap without it, yes. But going through gel phase seems to me like a more reliable method - you recognise immediately if the batch is OK, if the soap has gelled and seems alright the next day... When putting it in the freezer, isnn't there more chance of spoiling the whole process?
I use the gel method just because it seems less risky to me. I simply cover the soap with blankets and let it like this overnightm controlling just the heat from time to time - being courious - from the external side. I never check the temperature or so. Should I?  

Girls, do you know some European webshop where they sell EOs or FOsat a reasonable prince, but still natural origin and high quality?
If I use 800 od 900 g oils, I should add approx. 40 g EO, right? Well, then I would have to use all the oils I have at home, since I have just 10 ml bottles. I simply don't know where to buy bigger amounts.
Thanks for the advice.


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## seven (Aug 4, 2014)

_Now I tried their lavender soap - and guess what! Yes. It smells the same like mine! Almost no lavender, just oils.
Can't it be a problem with lavender? _
Did she use EO or FO? it could be several things. not using enough, and some EOs fade quite fast too.


_Concerning curing, how do you know when exactly the soap is ready for use? I have not found a clue yet. The pH is OK and was already after one day, so... Is there any other really reliable method how to recognize it?_
soap is usually cured for 4 weeks (more for castile). 

_And regarding gel phase: I would like to try a soap without it, yes. But going through gel phase seems to me like a more reliable method - you recognise immediately if the batch is OK, if the soap has gelled and seems alright the next day... When putting it in the freezer, isnn't there more chance of spoiling the whole process?_
gelling or not gelling, there is no right and wrong about it. ungelled soaps take a bit longer to finish saponification (48-36 hrs), because you put it in a cold environment, thus the process is slower to finish.


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## Nevada (Aug 4, 2014)

All great comments & suggestions. Have a friend/ neighbor smell your soap. You may be "de-sensitized" a bit. 
Also mix 2.25 g Kaolin clay ppo with EO and let rest for while before adding to soap pot.


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## Hilge (Aug 4, 2014)

Check out Gracefruit. They have essential oils but many other things too. They are located in Scotland. Seems like EOs they have also in bigger bottles too (100ml and 250 ml)

http://www.gracefruit.com/essential-oils/


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## VeronikaM123 (Aug 11, 2014)

Hilge said:


> Check out Gracefruit. They have essential oils but many other things too. They are located in Scotland. Seems like EOs they have also in bigger bottles too (100ml and 250 ml)
> 
> http://www.gracefruit.com/essential-oils/




Thank you!!!


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## reinbeau (Aug 11, 2014)

I have to say, it's not the _brand_ of EO, but the _quality_.  Also I haven't seen what your usage rate is.  I tend to add a bit of patchouli to my lavender EOs, it helps to anchor it.  3:1 works fine, and you really don't notice the patchouli.


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## CanaDawn (Aug 11, 2014)

I would think a longer cure might help the whole thing..it will reduce the water content, make the soap milder, and generally improve it.  You say your second batch is only 2 wks old, so I would suggest trying it again in another 2-4 wks min before you decide.


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## Seawolfe (Aug 11, 2014)

One advantage of hot process is that IF you can cool the cooked batter to below the flash point of the EO's and still keep it manageable for moulding, you use less of the EO (half is recommended), and it doesn't go through the saponification process. I think this is also one reason why the milling of commercial soaps became so popular - you can add scent then and save on the amount.


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## Dorymae (Aug 11, 2014)

It is important to remember that all essential oils are not created equally.  By this I'm not talking about the manufacturing process, I'm talking about the inherent properties of the oils themselves.
For example a pine or spruce scent is strong, you don't need as much and it will last. However a citrus is strong only in the bottle.  In the soap you need more and it will still fade more quickly.  This is one of the reasons we blend different scents together, to help to 'anchor' a weaker scent.
I usually use a lemongrass to help anchor a citrus scent.
Lavender is a weak scent as well, it fades quicker.  You can get stronger lavender but it doesn't help much.  Anchoring will help a bit more but you will also get the scent of the anchor mixed in. I use bergamot to help anchor lavender but there are other oils you could use as well.


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## Lindy (Aug 11, 2014)

I want to address the safe percentage of essential oils.  5% is fully therapeutic across the board which is why you shouldn't be going that high, not with an essential oil  Maximum safe usage is 3%


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