# Please help me!! My Soap is not the same what i saw in youtube!



## Ronzkie26

Please help me!! My Soap is not the same what i saw in youtube! I made soap earlier using my ingredients.. i have the 100% mixture but im not quite sure about this because im not good in mathematical. so please help me guys because i want to do business so that i may help my mom to sustain our daily needs.. so im gonna write up here all the ingredients and procedure.. please help me correcting my mistake and please advice me what is proper and better procedure especially calculating all ingredients.. so here's mine.

My Mixture and Recipe is Papaya Soap.

60% Coconut Oil
35% Lye
5% Additives
total of 100% mixture

Ingredients:
1. Papaya 1.5% (25ml-50ml)
2. Calamansi - 1.2% (25ml)
3. Castor Oil - .5% (5ml)
4. Antibac - .5% (5ml)
5. Sodium Silicate - .5% (5ml)
6. CDEA - .8% (8ml)
7. Coconut Oil - 60% (600ml)
So my Lye is 350g and my water is 36 oz or 1,050ml .

Procedure:
1. First i mix the 350ml Lye into Water of 36oz/1,050ml. then i set aside for 3hrs.
2. Then after 3hrs i pour the Lye into Coconut oil 600ml then i mix it using my blender then after it turn white and mix well. i add then papaya extract 50ml then Castor Oil, Antibac, Sodium Silicate and CDEA.. i blend it but before that the texture looks milk but after i blend about 5-10mins. its turn something that i didn't expect what i saw same in youtube.. so my question is.. DID I MISS SOMETHING?WHAT COULD IT BE WRONG?IS IT MY PROCEDURE IS NOT CORRECT?PLEASE HELP ME! I WANT TO MAKE PAPAYA SOAP BUT MY CHOICE IS MY FRIEND WANT ME TO TAKE SEMINAR ABOUT IT BUT IT COST ME P3,000 pesos or about $80 which is Huge to me.. Please help me guys.. please correcting my mistake and give me advice how to make perfect papaya soap especially my mixture coz i doubt i have something wrong on that.. please.. thanks.. and pardon me my english coz im not good to speak english fluently.. thanks and god bless everythong!

P.S i dont know how to use SoapCalc or any calculator for Lye.. so i want this ingredients to work and come out perfectly.. coz this is the ingredients we want to produce for our business... anyway here's the picture i made earlier soap.. look bad and it has excess oil at the bottom.


----------



## Shalisk

Ok again: Newbie but lemme see if I can break this down:

You counted your lye %age as part of your oils?
YOu didnt heat your oils?
You let your lye get to room tempature?

I am going to try to be as nice as I can with this:

If you watched 1 video on youtube and said "I am going to make soap for money" you are already wrong.

Watch lots of videos, READ, Practice, Understand what you are doing BEFORE you try to sell anything you could REALLY hurt someone, or yourself!

That being said.... if I understand your recipe correctly....

I know only 2 of those are oils, so using those 2 as oils: 36 oz of oils with 5% superfat should ONLY be 13.68 ounces of water and 6.25 oz of Lye....

I hate to say this but...I think that its all completely wrong.

I hope that ...someone more knowlageable can help you better than I, but I think you should do a little more research, read the soap calc help files, and DEFINATLY get 6months to a year under your belt before you go selling it to the public 

Good luck


----------



## Ronzkie26

yes thank you! i know its my recipe is wrong. i choose this kind of business because my wife love this.. and its not just all about money. life is so hard and i want to do business because my salary is not enough. again my wife really love to buy different brand of soap so she ask me if we can do business because she want to become as model of our product so i did research about 1month and i admit im not fully knowledge about it sir. but i want to do it coz i know someday i make it right even though im in IT field but i want to have a family business like this. and 

You counted your lye %age as part of your oils? - i dont understand sir. please explain it to me.
YOu didnt heat your oils? - Yes i didn't heat the Oil which is my bad. 
You let your lye get to room tempature?no actually im here in our sala which is quite very hot due to EL NINO here.


----------



## grayceworks

Ok, so. 

When you are creating a soap recipe, the OILS, and ONLY THE OILS (and fats) must add up to 100%. 

If you are only using one type of oil, the amount you use is already 100% for your recipe. If you are using two, as in your case, coconut and castor, then the percentage of each in your recipe must add up to 100%. 

So if you're making a 32oz batch of soap, you might have something like the following: 

10% Castor Oil -- 3.2oz
90% Coconut Oil -- 28.8oz

now... Coconut in such a high percentage is usually quite harsh and drying to skin, because it is very very effective at removing oils. Including the natural oils on your skin. Most people don't use more than 20-25% in their recipes. 

A better recipe might be: 

10% Castor Oil - 3.2oz
20% Coconut Oil - 6.4oz
70% Olive Oil - 22.4oz

Now, once you have a recipe that you think will be nice on your skin, then you go to a calculator like SoapCalc, and you will follow the numbered steps to enter that information. 

first since this is a bar soap, you make sure NaOH is selected. Then decide if you prefer to work in oz, grams, or lbs. And enter the total batch size you want into the box.  

leave the water setting alone for now, the default is ok for beginners. 
Enter a SuperFat amount. This is how much extra oil (or how much less lye) you will have in your recipe, to make sure that it doesn't end up lye-heavy, and that it's not overly drying. 5% - 7% is a good starting SF amount here. The default is 5% and you can just leave it at that if you want. 

If you are using an Essential Oil or Fragrance Oil, and you know the recommended usage rate, enter it in that box, otherwise just leave it empty for now. 

Then choose an oil from the list, use the + sign to add it to your recipe list. Enter the percent you want of  that oil in the % box. Do the same for each oil. then  click Calculate. Then click the View/Print button. It will open in a new window, with your whole recipe, showing how much lye, how much water, and how much of each oil. 

working in percentages makes it easy when you want to make bigger batches, as you only need to change the batch size in step 2, and recalculate. 

Try the sample recipe I posted above, and post what you come up with here! Then we can work on those additives you mentioned. One thing at a time!


----------



## Susie

^What everyone else said.  Learn to use SoapCalc first.  This is NOT optional. 

I think you also use a papaya extract?  If that has alcohol in it, it is NOT an oil.  Do not include that in the oils.  The alcohol may also cause it's own set of problems.  

Go watch MANY, MANY videos on YouTube.  Read every last thread on this forum.  Then you will figure out how NOT ready you are to sell that soap.  I strongly suggest you find another source of income while you are learning soaping, because not only do you need to support your family, you will need to pay more money to buy oils, lye, colorants, and either fragrance or essential oils to learn how to make soap.


----------



## haksaktiawan

Hello Ronzkie26

first i want to ask you, are you a pinoy?

I don't know many of ingredients you use for your first batch. I only know Coconut oil, water, lye, papaya, and castor oil.

You said that is Papaya Soap recipe, with 65% CO, 35% lye, and 5% additives. But in ingredients you add castor oil. I think castor oil is not an additive, that is an oil and oil is the main ingredient. CMIIW.

And then, why you measure all in milliliter? 
It should be measured by weight, not volume. Use grams, ounce, or pound.

The most important thing is, please use soap/lye calculator. 

don't give up. make it again with the right procedure. and for the first batch please do not add any additive.


----------



## judymoody

What was already said.

Come up with a blend of soaping oils: 20% coconut, 30% palm (or lard), and 50% olive oil is a good place to start.

Input the oils at www.soapcalc.net

It will give you your lye and water amounts.  Rough guideline - lye is typically around 1/7 of the weight of my soaping oils in my recipes, give or take depending on what oils you use.  If you have a recipe like the one you posted where the lye is 50% or more of your oils weight, something is very wrong.

You can get basic beginning recipes that are well balanced on the brambleberry website or at millersoap.com


----------



## navigator9

Soap is not difficult to make, but it is a *very precise* process, and the use of a lye calculator is absolutely necessary. (unless you're going to do your own calculations) Is it possible that you could maybe make something else to supplement your income, like sugar scrubs, lip balms, etc. It might be easier to start out with those while you do more research on making soap. I read about soap making for 2 years before I actually made it. There's a lot of information you should read and be comfortable with before making your first batch, and then, in my opinion, it should be a very *simple recipe* to start out with, until you're more comfortable with the process. Soap making is not something to jump into, even if youtube videos make it look easy. I wish you luck with your endeavors.


----------



## Obsidian

There is no reason to use the chemical additives like the sodium silicate, antibac and CDEA. Oils, water and lye are all you really need. 

What kind of oils and fats do you have access to? I have to agree that a soap high in coconut oil will be very drying. Adding a animal fat or olive oil will greatly improve your soap.

When adding fruit puree or juice, you want to replace part of your water. Say your recipe calls for 12 oz of water and you want to add 2 oz of fruit juice. Remove 2 oz of water and replace it with the juice. In theory you can use 100% fruit juice in place of your water but its safer to use half water, half fruit when beginning.

I recommend you throw away your failed batch, its going to be lye heavy and unusable. It is absolutely necessary to learn how to use a lye calculator if you are going to make soap, especially if you are planning on selling.


----------



## Seawolfe

Please please don't assume that something that you don't understand is safe because you saw it on youtube!

Soap making is not like cooking where if something goes wrong the meal just tastes bad or you have to throw it away. 
In soap making, if you do something wrong you can hurt yourself or someone else. 

Please listen to the smart people who responded to you and their recipe suggestions.

For my contribution I will suggest some videos:
The GingerGreySoaps beginning soap making tutorials: https://www.youtube.com/user/GingerGreySoaps
Soaping 101 soap webinars: https://www.youtube.com/user/soaping101/videos?sort=da&view=0&flow=grid

And some basic tutorials:
http://www.lovelygreens.com/2013/09/natural-soapmaking-for-beginners.html
http://offbeatandinspired.com/2012/09/14/cold-process-soap-making-for-beginners/

Once you understand the concepts of soap making, and how to use a lye calculator, you will be able to judge for yourself if any recipe will suit your needs and be safe - or even better make your own recipe


----------



## paillo

And I ABSOLUTELY would have business insurance if you are even contemplating selling soap without knowing what you're doing. If you sell dangerous soap and someone has a bad reaction you could be sued for everything you have. 

I second the idea of selling other products that are easier and safer than bad soap until you have a LOT of successful batches of soap under your belt. Lip balms, body butters, lotion bars, and melt-and-pour soap to start with.


----------



## grayceworks

I had a nice long reply here but this app ate it. Sigh.

Had figured out that the posted recipe has a -247 SF.


----------



## AustinStraight

I'd definitely recommend starting with simple, relatively inexpensive projects like lip balm, lotion bars, etc. don't be discouraged though!  You just need to do more research before making soap.


----------



## Ronzkie26

Hi! Thanks Guys for responding my concern here.. sorry if i got a late reply here due to busy days outing w/ my family because its summer here in our country. So back to topic. i read all the comments and at least 4 users (graceworks,haksaktiawan,Obsidian,AustinStraight) who contributed good comments.. i highly appreciated guys.. i am at now i guess 70% knowledge about making soap.. ok Ms. Judymoody thanks for your recipe u share to me but  i can't follow your recommendation of 50% Olive oil due to the fact that its expensive here in philippines.. Coconut Oil is cheaper compare those Olive Oi and Palm Oi. Anyway Now i know how to use SoapCalc. so im trying to make ingredients now then i'll post it here.. Thanks.


----------



## AustinStraight

You could replace some of the olive oil with rice bran (try 50-60% perhaps) to cut the cost as it's similar, just be sure to run it through SoapCalc again.  You could also make 100% coconut oil soap with a 20% superfat if coconut oil is what's most available to you and you don't find it bothers your skin.


----------



## Oenone

Can you get palm kernel oil or vegetable oil?


----------



## Oenone

Or soybean oil...

These are the sites I use a lot;

http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/coldprocesssoapmaking/ss/sscpsoap.htm
http://www.imafrugalgirl.com/SoapandBathandBodyEbook.pdf <---really good pics

http://www.uvm.edu/~edstudio/Information/april10/products/soapmaking.pdf <--- this one talks about using animal fats (like from pork or beef) and then making that recipe fancier


----------



## Ronzkie26

so here's the results of my ingredients using SoapCalc.. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




[/IMG]

ok as i my first post about ingredients.. i'll disregard the following 3 chemicals. 
Sodium Silicate, CDEA, and Antibac (benzalkonium chloride) since i'm making and promoting herbal soap which is my mistake due to fact that im so excited making soap especially my wife.. so the reason why i put only 5% olive oil, palm oil, canola oil, lauric acid because they are all expensive here.. i double the castor oil to 10% because i want to make my soap moisture and conditioning. 

So i want to ask you guys... is this good now?i mean is this better than the old one?or still i need to add more or change?please tell me if this is good or not.. anway i understand 60% of my OIL weight should be the 100% of all OIL that i would mix, right?hehehe! So little more step then i ready to make again soap and correcting all my mistakes from previous try.. my friend told me don't give up.. keep trying coz our life is like Trial and Error.. so i'll push this through until i get perfect papaya soap..

I am not quite sure the price of my soap after i made it using those ingredients but i definitely find a good supplier which can give me cheaper price so that i can price it cheaper into market if possible..


----------



## Oenone

Too much castor oil will mess up your soap. It's too soft and can go rancid


----------



## Oenone

Can you get peanut, avocado oil, or soybean oil?


----------



## Oenone

http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapmakingoils/tp/qualitiesofsoapmakingoils.htm

This might be helpful to you-- so you can see on this list what's available to you locally


----------



## Seawolfe

Its looking better, and Im glad you figured out Soap Calc, but I really do think you want to get more practice and educate yourself on what will work and why. Theres a very good thread in the business forum Are you ready to sell your soap? that will give you an idea of what is needed to get ready to sell. In my opinion I dont think you should even think about this as a business until you have mastered at least the basics, and have perfected a couple of recipes that perform well for you.

Ive made about 20 batches of soap so far, but I want to wait about a year before I begin to sell because I want to learn so much and I also want to see how my soaps perform over time.

As far as your recipe goes - that coconut oil is VERY high for a bar that isn't a salt bar, and would be very harsh. Some people don't like over 20% coconut oil, I don't mind it up to 30% as long as the superfat is raised. And Im not sure why you have Lauric Acid on your list of oils? Im not even sure what that is?

A friend of mine lives in China, where olive oil is very expensive. He has had some very good results using lard in his soaps.


----------



## Ronzkie26

Oenone said:


> Too much castor oil will mess up your soap. It's too soft and can go rancid



so what is ideal percentage of castro oil sir?


----------



## Oenone

5% -- that's the advice I got in one of my earlier threads and it's never steered me wrong.

Also I'm not a sir


----------



## Ronzkie26

Seawolfe said:


> Its looking better, and Im glad you figured out Soap Calc, but I really do think you want to get more practice and educate yourself on what will work and why. Theres a very good thread in the business forum Are you ready to sell your soap? that will give you an idea of what is needed.
> 
> Ive made about 20 batches of soap and I love them all, but I want to wait about a year before I begin to sell because I want to learn so much and I also want to see how my soaps perform over time.



Yes i already know how to use Soapcalc now.. but right now i just want to make simple and cheaper soap but effective.. i have new recipe now but im not sure if i can make this right and make a cheaper price into market. so here's my 2nd recipe.. i hope you can help me please... Thanks.


----------



## Ronzkie26

Oenone said:


> 5% -- that's the advice I got in one of my earlier threads and it's never steered me wrong.
> 
> Also I'm not a sir



oh.. im sorry mam.. anyway i decrease mine to 2% Castor Oil.. is that good?please check my 2nd recipe.. tnx


----------



## hmlove1218

If you're going to attempt to make your second recipe you should raise your superfat to 15%-20% so that it won't be drying. Also, if you have access to lard or tallow they would make great additions and help balance your recipe. I personally would bump the castor oil back up to 5%. Also, if you have access to butter like mango, cocoa, or shea, they would also make good replacements for some of the coconut.


----------



## Oenone

Heres some directions on rendering lard:

http://www.homesicktexan.com/2008/05/how-to-render-lard.html?m=1

There's also a lot if info on soap making w lard in the UVM link I posted.


----------



## Ronzkie26

Hi! Guys.. sorry if i often reply my thread.. so this is my final recipe.. i want your suggestion and opinion guys..





[/IMG]


----------



## grayceworks

From what I have been able to research, Palm oil should be easy to find there, yahoo says there's 34 brands of palm oil in the philippines that are cheaper than coconut oil... IMI Saji brand is one... Also, Corn and sunflower seem to be available? 

Do you  have lard available? Or tallow? Those both make excellent soaps.

Also, Lauric is the big thing in coconut oil that makes it super-cleansing...

EDIT: I posted after you just posted.  I see you already incorporated some of those. (that's what happens when I try to type answers while I'm at work lol)

EDITED AGAIN:  Extracts typically have alcohol in them, which can really really speed up how fast your soap thickens up. They can even make the soap seize, so you might want to be careful with that. Are they alcohol extracts or are they essential oils?


----------



## Shalisk

I wish I was at 70% of knowing everything about soap making. I want to give you a hand man, but....1) I dont really know how to phrase things in ways people understand often, and 2) I am still learning myself, I have 0 confidance in telling someone information for soap they are going to try to sell so soon after starting :/


----------



## The Efficacious Gentleman

Shalisk said:


> I wish I was at 70% of knowing everything about soap making. I want to give you a hand man, but....1) I dont really know how to phrase things in ways people understand often, and 2) I am still learning myself, I have 0 confidance in telling someone information for soap they are going to try to sell so soon after starting :/


 
When still new, it's easier to help others as you can relate to it more.  The people who have been doing it for so long might well struggle to remember how it is looking at a batter and thinking "Is this right?".


----------



## grayceworks

The Efficacious Gentleman said:


> When still new, it's easier to help others as you can relate to it more.  The people who have been doing it for so long might well struggle to remember how it is looking at a batter and thinking "Is this right?".




I have been guilty of this, not with soap, but when I do computer repair. For me it's often, "Here, let me just.... click, click, DONE!" and the poor user is sitting there going "huh?".


----------



## Shalisk

The Efficacious Gentleman said:


> When still new, it's easier to help others as you can relate to it more.  The people who have been doing it for so long might well struggle to remember how it is looking at a batter and thinking "Is this right?".



True, but on the other hand, my inexperianced advice could get someone hurt.

As for his previous picture of batter, I did comment, that if he used 30% of that '100%' he spoke of as Lye, then that was the culprit fo-sho.  I also mentioned that She (he?) should not be attempting to sell soap so soon, that is about the extent of my experiance, and its what I relate to. Safe first in all things.

I guess I am also hesitant to help someone that seems dead set on selling soap after a youtube video, and no real experiance.

In the same way I would not want to help a mechanic with no education in auto's to start a biz. Sure he MAY be a natural savvant who been around cars his whole life, but the odds are not strong.

I will always try to help when I can, but right now, I don't know how to help with his recipe (I am still learning that myself) and I don't approve (Opinion) of trying to sell somthing so soon after starting, and if my advice/help is going into somthing that will be sold, I dont want to risk being wrong and hurting someone if that makes sense?


----------



## Ronzkie26

grayceworks said:


> From what I have been able to research, Palm oil should be easy to find there, yahoo says there's 34 brands of palm oil in the philippines that are cheaper than coconut oil... IMI Saji brand is one... Also, Corn and sunflower seem to be available?
> 
> Do you  have lard available? Or tallow? Those both make excellent soaps.
> 
> Also, Lauric is the big thing in coconut oil that makes it super-cleansing...
> 
> EDIT: I posted after you just posted.  I see you already incorporated some of those. (that's what happens when I try to type answers while I'm at work lol)
> 
> EDITED AGAIN:  Extracts typically have alcohol in them, which can really really speed up how fast your soap thickens up. They can even make the soap seize, so you might want to be careful with that. Are they alcohol extracts or are they essential oils?



i dont think palm oil is cheaper than coconut oil. because most average people here only use coconut oil for cooking, etc. but i will check that later in market mam. anyway about Papaya.. how do i know if papaya has contains alcohol?i mean pardon me.. im not familiar on that. i just bought fresh papaya from market then slice and blend on a blender then that's it.. or what should i do?if im going to buy papaya oil then that's too expensive and can't buy from streets because it can only buy in supermarket or some expensive stores. i just want to make simple papaya soap. like this recipe coconut oil, castor oil, and olive oil or i can add palm oil depends on the price then PAPAYA extract. that's it..

P.S i can find tallow here but i can't remember the exact price. if ever i can find how much percent should i allocate for tallow?


----------



## grayceworks

Ahhh, that's papaya PUREE, not extract.  Extract is like the flavorings extracted with alcohol for cooking and baking, for most people. When you blend a fresh fruit up, that's a puree.  Yes, that will be fine! Make sure it's super well blended and strained, as any lumps can turn brown and potentially spoil the soap. Ok, yes, that's why I asked, in case we weren't talking about the same thing. 

If you can find tallow cheap, it's a good replacement for palm. I love it in soap. It gives it a nice feel, at least for me. Same with lard.


EDIT: you should probably start with just ONE puree at a time. Fruit has sugar, and sugar makes the soap heat up as it's saponifying, and can cause it to overheat if there's too much, and  until you have experience knowing what overheating looks like.


----------



## grayceworks

If you can find either palm or tallow at a cost you can afford, then I would try as a starting point: 

20% Coconut
10% Castor
35% Soybean or Vegetable oil or Shortening (which usually has soybean and palm)
35% Palm or Tallow

Because the recipe you posted last, still has a cleansing number of 42, and while I like the number 42 for other things, I don't like it for a cleansing  number unless I'm doing laundry!  For skin, try to keep the cleansing number down below 15 if possible, the lower it is, the less it will strip the natural oils from your skin. 

Some might say avoid soybean oil, as it can become rancid sooner than other oils, but just don't use it for the WHOLE soap, keep the percentage fairly low, and there shouldn't be a problem. 

The recipe there is a starting point to fiddle with the oils and watch the numbers on soapcalc. Also, DeeAnna has a great thread here somewhere that explains the numbers and how they affect the soap's qualities, and it's a great thing to read.


----------



## grayceworks

*Link to DeeAnna's awesome post about what the numbers all mean. *


----------



## judymoody

OK, given that olive oil is out, I would try the following:

30% coconut oil
30% beef tallow OR lard OR palm oil
8% castor
32% other liquid oil - whatever is cost effective for you.  If you can get rice bran, that would be ideal.  If not, high oleic safflower, sunflower, canola, soy, whatever.  The main issue here is that I'm assuming it's relatively hot and humid where you live and the weather will make your soaps more prone to spoilage.  Soy and canola have relatively short shelf lives.

Because of the amount of coconut oil, I'd use a superfat of 8-10% so it isn't too drying.


----------



## shaan

I must say everyone in this forum is so helpful..Now when you have got the recipe,I think u should make a smaller batch..till the time you dont have a successful batch,make an experimental batch of about 150 grams,so that you dont waste oils and get the basic know how..I did the same mistake of making a big batch for the first time..all the best! Hope to See the pics of your first batch soon.


----------



## Seawolfe

If you are dead set on coconut oil being the most of your recipe, then I would use 100% at 1% superfat and it will be a laundry bar.
Or make it 20% superfat with 80% of the weight of the oils added as fine salt and it will be a nice salt bar.


----------



## AustinStraight

I actually dont recommend making a recipe smaller than 2 pounds, the smaller your batch is, the more room for error.  Or should I say less?  :?


----------



## haksaktiawan

wow, so many kinds of oils in your recipe
and, so many kinds of extract for additive also.

Here in my place, Olive oil maybe is the most expensive cooking oil. We usually use palm oil because that is the cheapest among all. Coconut oil is more expensive than palm oil but still cheaper than OO.

for my recipe, I always use only 3 oils, OO, CO, and Palm oil. In my recipe I always use palm oil at the most. When I use less OO, then I use less CO too. But when I use more OO I dont add more CO, I just add sugar for more lather.

Althought it only has 3 oils, it has very good batch and suitable to our Malay race skin, high humidity, and very warm weather. I don't have good access to get other oils like castor oil, avocado oil, and bla bla bla oil that we, Indonesian never use those for cooking.

But, don't worry to use OO in your batch although it's expensive. I use OO, I got it for approximately $10 / 1 L. Due to expensive OO here, I sell at high price too. My customers do not mind about high price as it comes with high quality, they know and understand that OO is an expensive oil but very good for their skin.

oiya, please be careful from getting overheated. I think is very warm in your place.


----------



## Ronzkie26

Ok guys.. im back, i went to he supermarkets earlier..And i found out that the price of palm oil for 1 kilo is 80 pesos ($1.80 per kilo) where comparing that Coconut oil only 60 pesos per kilo ($1.40) and Olive Oil, Corn Oil, Canola Oil are all expensive. so in short it excess on my budget target coz i want to make papaya soap with cheaper and affordable price that i can compete w/ our local brand and it seems most local brand here are just using only one oil (coconut oil) then papaya, etc.etc. So now i decided that i want to make final recipe so please help me guys if this is right coz tomorrow i'll try another shot.. and if its work then i can proceed second recipe which is more good quality but little expensive though. so for now i'll stick with cheaper product.. 

here's my recipe..
85% Coconut Oil (510g) 
10% Castor Oil (60g)
5% CDEA (30g) (should i add it here??is this correct) they say CDEA is an oil and creates more Bubble.
total of 100% of 600g or 60% of Oil.

Lye 350g (35%) = 1,050g of water.

additives: Papaya Extract, Sodium Silicate and fragrance.

My question is how much percent do i put in each additives?can you give me precise % or grams? Thank in advance guys...:angel:


----------



## dixiedragon

Honestly, I think you need to really, really simplify your recipe. Play around with things like fruit puree, additives, etc after you've successfully made at last one batch, so you know what it looks like. Fruit and vegetable purees can be very problematic, because they contain water, so you will need to reduce the amount of water you dissolve your lye in. Your fruit purees can also rot in your soap. 

I have no idea what CDEA is.

Do you have access to beef fat (tallow) or lard (maybe labeled Manteca)?

In the quantity you want to use, coconut oil will make a very harsh soap. 

If you want to use that high amount of coconut oil, try making 100% coconut oil and doing a 20% superfat and see how you like it.


----------



## ocean_soul

Ronzkie26 said:


> Ok guys.. im back, i went to he supermarkets earlier..And i found out that the price of palm oil for 1 kilo is 80 pesos ($1.80 per kilo) where comparing that Coconut oil only 60 pesos per kilo ($1.40) and Olive Oil, Corn Oil, Canola Oil are all expensive. so in short it excess on my budget target coz i want to make papaya soap with cheaper and affordable price that i can compete w/ our local brand and it seems most local brand here are just using only one oil (coconut oil) then papaya, etc.etc. So now i decided that i want to make final recipe so please help me guys if this is right coz tomorrow i'll try another shot.. and if its work then i can proceed second recipe which is more good quality but little expensive though. so for now i'll stick with cheaper product..
> 
> here's my recipe..
> 85% Coconut Oil (510g)
> 10% Castor Oil (60g)
> 5% CDEA (30g) (should i add it here??is this correct) they say CDEA is an oil and creates more Bubble.
> total of 100% of 600g or 60% of Oil.
> 
> Lye 350g (35%) = 1,050g of water.
> 
> additives: Papaya Extract, Sodium Silicate and fragrance.
> 
> My question is how much percent do i put in each additives?can you give me precise % or grams? Thank in advance guys...:angel:



I have no idea what CDEA is, but if it's supposed to create more bubbles then I really don't think you'll need any.  With all the coconut oil you're using you should have bubbles galore.

Also, where are you getting these calculations for your lye and water from?  Your numbers are way, way too high for both!  I tested out your recipe tweaking the numbers slightly by eliminating the CDEA.  For a 500gm batch of soap using 90% Coconut oil and 10% Castor oil with a 20% superfat, you should only need 190g water and 71 g lye.  

I'll look at my notes for suggestions on the additives shortly.


----------



## haksaktiawan

so cheap palm oil and coconut oil there, hehe...

CDEA, what is that?

IMO, don't use too many CO for body soap moreover facial soap, High CO soap usually more drying. I think use high percentage of palm oil is good based on my experience, then use low percentage of CO just for lather well. CMIIW.

If you want to make papaya soap, don't add too much. I think add papaya puree between 20-30% of total weight is enough. 
I sell papaya soap too 

Be careful with fragrance, some synthetic oil will cause instant trace

why do you want to add sodium silicate?


----------



## Seawolfe

Ronzkie26 said:


> here's my recipe..
> 85% Coconut Oil (510g)
> 10% Castor Oil (60g)
> 5% CDEA (30g) (should i add it here??is this correct) they say CDEA is an oil and creates more Bubble.
> total of 100% of 600g or 60% of Oil.
> 
> Lye 350g (35%) = 1,050g of water.
> 
> additives: Papaya Extract, Sodium Silicate and fragrance.
> 
> My question is how much percent do i put in each additives?can you give me precise % or grams? Thank in advance guys...:angel:



Dude, for a 600 g recipe like this you only need about 100 g of lye. Your recipe has THREE TIMES THAT. This is a perfect recipe if you want to melt peoples faces off!! Do you want to hurt people?

What is CDEA and who are "they" that recommends it? Why are you adding Sodium Silicate?

Please, stop thinking of making soap as a "get rich quick" scheme, stop looking for other people to tell you how to make the soap that will make you rich, and take some time with some simple recipes and try to LEARN a bit.

I'm not trying to be mean, but your lack of concern for safety is frightening.


----------



## seven

haksaktiawan said:


> I don't have good access to get other oils like castor oil
> 
> I use OO, I got it for approximately $10 / 1 L.



i forgot, where are you located? i think castor is quite easy to get, but def not in supermarkets. check out the chemical stores, ask for minyak biji jarak. usually around Rp. 50K/L.

Pomace OO, hmmm... if you know where to look, you can def get it less than $10/L  you gotta buy in 5L jugs though. i've seen one in a supermarket for Rp. 85K/L. i only use pomace, as pure olive is def far too bloody expensive.



Ronzkie26 said:


> here's my recipe..
> 85% Coconut Oil (510g)
> 10% Castor Oil (60g)
> 5% CDEA (30g) (should i add it here??is this correct) they say CDEA is an oil and creates more Bubble.
> total of 100% of 600g or 60% of Oil.
> 
> Lye 350g (35%) = 1,050g of water.
> 
> additives: Papaya Extract, Sodium Silicate and fragrance.
> 
> My question is how much percent do i put in each additives?can you give me precise % or grams? Thank in advance guys...:angel:



i think you are not listening to the good advices others have given you so far... that is to learn to use lye calculator. a very easy one is from brambleberry.com (look for lye calculator on the left hand side options). it is seriously the most straight forward calculator. by using a lye calc, you are saving yourself from creating a dangerous soap like shown in the above recipe (far too much lye). please please do not do that recipe, it is seriously dangerous.

2nd of all, you cannot use that much coconut oil w/o at least a 15% superfat (SF). otherwise, the soap is going to be far too drying. also, i don't see a point using castor if you already using that much coconut. 

you are better off adding another oil or 2 to the bunch, like palm and a bit of OO or soybean or canola.

i would do something economical like:
50% palm
30% coconut
5% castor
15% soybean or canola

6% SF

CDEA, i did a quick google search and so far i cannot found its SAP value, therefore it should not be added to the lye calculation. it should be treated as an additive. it's a foaming booster as far as i know. personally, i think you don't need it, with 30% coconut + 5% castor, your bubble level is already 25, which is not bad at all.

also, scratch the sodium silicate if you don't even know what it's for. waste of money me thinks. 

papaya extract, please contact the manufacturer for usage guide. is your extract powdered, water, or glycerine based? you have to find out about this first. read the ingredients, if it contains alcohol it can mess up with the soap if done CP. you might wanna do HP instead.

fragrance, again, each fragrance has its own usage guide, but generally, around 3-6% from total oils.

if you have some free time, please read this link below, it will give you a general knowledge on different oils and their characteristics:
http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/




Seawolfe said:


> This is a perfect recipe if you want to melt peoples faces off!!
> 
> *Please, stop thinking of making soap as a "get rich quick" scheme*, stop looking for other people to tell you how to make the soap that will make you rich, and take some time with some simple recipes and try to LEARN a bit.
> 
> I'm not trying to be mean, but your lack of concern for safety is frightening.



^^^
that


----------



## DeeAnna

DO NOT use CDEA in handmade soap. It is not needed. It is unsafe. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocamide_DEA

DO NOT use sodium silicate in handmade soap. It is not needed. Spend your money on necessary things, not this junk.


----------



## seven

^^^
wow, even more dangerous that recipe is. yikes! whoever made it must be spanked!


----------



## judymoody

I liked Seven's recipe recommendation as a practical solution for the oils you have available to you.  I also agree that you should seek out pomace olive oil which is 100% olive oil but the lowest grade.  It is fine for soap and should be cheaper.

Also, use a lye calculator like the one on brambleberry or soapcalc.net to determine your lye and water amounts.  What you are proposing is dangerously caustic soap.   If you are using your own papaya puree, you can substitute it for some of the water.  The sugars in the papaya may cause your soap to get very hot so be sure to watch for signs of overheating.


----------



## Ronzkie26

*hello*

Hi! Good Morning everyone.. sorry if im always asking and making look like ignorant to all of you here.. im just in learning process but i know i'll make this things work soon.. 



dixiedragon said:


> Honestly, I think you need to really, really simplify your recipe. Play around with things like fruit puree, additives, etc after you've successfully made at last one batch, so you know what it looks like. Fruit and vegetable purees can be very problematic, because they contain water, so you will need to reduce the amount of water you dissolve your lye in. Your fruit purees can also rot in your soap.
> 
> I have no idea what CDEA is.
> 
> Do you have access to beef fat (tallow) or lard (maybe labeled Manteca)?
> 
> In the quantity you want to use, coconut oil will make a very harsh soap.
> 
> If you want to use that high amount of coconut oil, try making 100% coconut oil and doing a 20% superfat and see how you like it.



Actually i dont want to use Beef fat (tallow) the reason is first its difficult to find Beef Tallow. secondly if i use Pig Fat as substitute on it bcoz its easy to find but it wont work on Muslim Market if ever im going to sell it.



haksaktiawan said:


> so cheap palm oil and coconut oil there, hehe...
> 
> CDEA, what is that?
> 
> IMO, don't use too many CO for body soap moreover facial soap, High CO soap usually more drying. I think use high percentage of palm oil is good based on my experience, then use low percentage of CO just for lather well. CMIIW.
> 
> If you want to make papaya soap, don't add too much. I think add papaya puree between 20-30% of total weight is enough.
> I sell papaya soap too
> 
> Be careful with fragrance, some synthetic oil will cause instant trace
> 
> why do you want to add sodium silicate?



CDEA is for creating more bubble that's what i understood on videos i saw from Filipino training seminar. And about palm oil i dont know if i can buy cheaper and wholesale price of 5 Gallon from my supplier compare on Coconut Oil i can buy at cheaper price for 5 Gallon. So im going to check on my supplier if they have supply of Palm Oil then i consider to use Palm Oil and Coconut Oil as well. 



Seawolfe said:


> Dude, for a 600 g recipe like this you only need about 100 g of lye. Your recipe has THREE TIMES THAT. This is a perfect recipe if you want to melt peoples faces off!! Do you want to hurt people?
> 
> What is CDEA and who are "they" that recommends it? Why are you adding Sodium Silicate?
> 
> Please, stop thinking of making soap as a "get rich quick" scheme, stop looking for other people to tell you how to make the soap that will make you rich, and take some time with some simple recipes and try to LEARN a bit.
> 
> I'm not trying to be mean, but your lack of concern for safety is frightening.



i check all local brand soap here where there prices are cheaper for average people but yet its still salable due to people still looking cheaper but as long as its indicate for skin whitening and using papaya as main ingredients. Local brand soap here are using sodium silicate for hardening the soap and CDEA for making soap more bubble even in training seminar they use that two chemical. i dont know why most people here forum don't recommend that two chemical maybe because its base on preferences. but im about thinking to disregard CDEA and Sodium Silicate then proceed to pure herbal soap. speaking of getting rich. i dont want to pretend myself that this is not about getting rich but honestly yes i want to improve our lives here.. due to rampant corruption and my salary is not enough to sustain our daily needs because of prices of basic needs always rise every month or so.  Also The reason why i want to venture this kind of business because many Filipino want to become white there skin and look like socialite person. They buy cosmetic products that contains whitening even is not proven to make there skin white. so its a lucrative business here in Philippines making whitening soap.



seven said:


> i forgot, where are you located? i think castor is quite easy to get, but def not in supermarkets. check out the chemical stores, ask for minyak biji jarak. usually around Rp. 50K/L.
> 
> Pomace OO, hmmm... if you know where to look, you can def get it less than $10/L  you gotta buy in 5L jugs though. i've seen one in a supermarket for Rp. 85K/L. i only use pomace, as pure olive is def far too bloody expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> i think you are not listening to the good advices others have given you so far... that is to learn to use lye calculator. a very easy one is from brambleberry.com (look for lye calculator on the left hand side options). it is seriously the most straight forward calculator. by using a lye calc, you are saving yourself from creating a dangerous soap like shown in the above recipe (far too much lye). please please do not do that recipe, it is seriously dangerous.
> 
> 2nd of all, you cannot use that much coconut oil w/o at least a 15% superfat (SF). otherwise, the soap is going to be far too drying. also, i don't see a point using castor if you already using that much coconut.
> 
> you are better off adding another oil or 2 to the bunch, like palm and a bit of OO or soybean or canola.
> 
> i would do something economical like:
> 50% palm
> 30% coconut
> 5% castor
> 15% soybean or canola
> 
> 6% SF
> 
> CDEA, i did a quick google search and so far i cannot found its SAP value, therefore it should not be added to the lye calculation. it should be treated as an additive. it's a foaming booster as far as i know. personally, i think you don't need it, with 30% coconut + 5% castor, your bubble level is already 25, which is not bad at all.
> 
> also, scratch the sodium silicate if you don't even know what it's for. waste of money me thinks.
> 
> papaya extract, please contact the manufacturer for usage guide. is your extract powdered, water, or glycerine based? you have to find out about this first. read the ingredients, if it contains alcohol it can mess up with the soap if done CP. you might wanna do HP instead.
> 
> fragrance, again, each fragrance has its own usage guide, but generally, around 3-6% from total oils.
> 
> if you have some free time, please read this link below, it will give you a general knowledge on different oils and their characteristics:
> http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-common-soapmaking-oils/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^
> that



Im from Philippines. Yes soybean, Canola, Olive Oil are expensive here.. but im thinking to add Palm Oil because it has little differential price between Palm and Coco Oil. I know how to use Lye Calculator now but im got confused because of CDEA and Sodium Silicate. Of course im listening to them but most of there recommendation are way good and making perfect soap and if im going to follow them then i cannot get the budget range which i want to make soap that affordable to the market ($1-1.50USD each bar of soap).. coz mainly the front of my soap is PAPAYA Herbal Whitening Soap. never mind the quality this time even though i would use let say 90% Coco Oil then 10% Castor Oil or 60% Coco Oil, 30% Palm Oil and 10% Castor Oil. Sorry my bad mistake.. its not Papaya Extract, its Puree. so im not quite sure how much Papaya Pure should i add because they say Papaya Puree contains water.. so if someone teach me.. please im begging you guys. 



DeeAnna said:


> DO NOT use CDEA in handmade soap. It is not needed. It is unsafe. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocamide_DEA
> 
> DO NOT use sodium silicate in handmade soap. It is not needed. Spend your money on necessary things, not this junk.



Mam most Local brand soap here using that two chemical even in Training Seminar... so i dont know how much percentage should i add or i just disregard now and go in pure herbal papaya soap. So in short mam this two chemical are not advisable for making bath soap??



judymoody said:


> I liked Seven's recipe recommendation as a practical solution for the oils you have available to you.  I also agree that you should seek out pomace olive oil which is 100% olive oil but the lowest grade.  It is fine for soap and should be cheaper.
> 
> Also, use a lye calculator like the one on brambleberry or soapcalc.net to determine your lye and water amounts.  What you are proposing is dangerously caustic soap.   If you are using your own papaya puree, you can substitute it for some of the water.  The sugars in the papaya may cause your soap to get very hot so be sure to watch for signs of overheating.



Im using soapcalc mam, the reason i got confused because of CDEA and Sodium Silicate.. so for now im going to make this things right if i disregard this two chemical and i'll post later the final final final recipe but please don't mind the quality first coz if i make this things perfect then i'll make second recipe which is good quality and little expensive. so if i add 50g of Papaya Pure mam how much water should i reduce so that i can avoid the overheating process?


----------



## Ronzkie26

To everyone.. Thanks for your help even though some of you here told me to shift another business or let's say just give up you cant do it.. your wrong.. im not kind of person that never give up in any challenges of life. this situation? i've been through many times. i work on different job.. so this time its different and my first time bcoz im just good in electronics or computer. but still i want to learn more.. me and my wife decided to have business like this because my wife suffer lot of unexplained sickness and pain that i cant afford to give here proper treatment on private hospital.. she always has massive headache everyday and falling hair even doctors can't explain. so im disparate to venture this kind business because my salary is not enough and im depending on my mother support for my business who is work as overseas worker now. As i said i choose this kind of business because its lucrative here and i have a beautiful wife that she want to become a model of our soon papaya herbal soap business.. so please help me guys.. im begging you. im not that kind of idiot or let say dumb to teach. just give me advice step by step and im going to study it after my 10hrs straight work from factory.. for everyone! Thanks for sharing and God Bless!


----------



## AustinStraight

To add puree, just use half as much water as you normally would use when you mix your lye solution - so if your recipe calls for 10 ounces of water, use 5 ounces instead - and bring your soap to trace.  Then, at trace, add that same amount of water back, but as puree - so, 5 ounces of puree, using the 10 ounce example.

I actually wouldn't recommend making soap with puree yet, and I especially wouldn't recommend experimenting with adding surfactants/silicones/antibacterials etc. until you've made at least a few successful batches of plain soap.


----------



## FlybyStardancer

With extremely few exceptions, most of what gets counted in the lye calculators for determining the amount of lye are the animal/plant oils like tallow/lard/coconut/palm/castor. The CDEA and sodium silicate are additives and are NOT counted towards the lye amount.

If you want a bar with a high amount of coconut oil, that will be very bubbly on its own. You won't need the CDEA for bubbles. Also, coconut oil is VERY cleansing. If you're going to use it in large amounts, you need to up the superfat levels. For instance, soaps with 80-100% coconut oil will generally require a 20% superfat.

Make sure you are very familiar with your chosen lye calculator (SoapCalc and the Brambleberry calculator are good ones). Be sure to use what THAT gives you for your lye and water amounts, and that you are measuring EVERYTHING in weight, using a good digital scale. If you don't, you could make a soap that's dangerous and liable to hurt those you sell it to.

As far as hardness goes... Both coconut and palm oils make for hard bars of soap. You don't need sodium silicate to harden it. In the unlikely case that you want it harder, dissolve a little bit of table salt (sodium chloride) in the lye water. Chances are you won't need to.

For the papaya puree, you're subtracting that from the water amount. You can go from a tablespoon of puree up to half of the water called for BY WEIGHT. However much you use, make sure you subtract that much from the water you mix the lye into, just as AustinStraight gave you an example for. Papaya also has sugar in it. Those sugars will 1) increase the bubbles in the soap, and 2) increase the temperature of it as it saponifies. You'll have to be careful and watch it to make sure it doesn't overheat. Soap cool, don't insulate, and be aware that you might need to refrigerate or freeze the soap if it looks like it's heating up too much.

Please calm down. Soapmaking is something that takes time and patience to make sure it goes right. Stress makes you more likely to make mistakes. There's been a lot of good advice in this thread! Selling bad soap because you rushed yourself too much will likely leave you in a worse position than you are now, and we want you to be making good soap and loving it!


----------



## grayceworks

People think you are not listening because once again you have posted a recipe with a hugely unsafe lye amount. You are wasting money on too much lye, on unsafe chemical additives and unnecessary extra additives, and then complaining about 20 cents per kilo difference between coconut and palm. Quit wasting money on unsafe stuff and buy the frikken palm. Not hard to understand. 

Use the right amount of lye instead of 3 TIMES TOO MUCH and you'll save money there too.

Don't dump expensive oils and puree in the trash by making big batches before you know what you're doing. Do 2lb batches until you have it figured out. 

You said you have castor, right? 

So get the palm, which you can afford now that you're not wasting money on unsafe CDEA and unnecessary sodium silicate and excess lye. 

Do 65% palm, 
25% coconut
10% castor

Or just plain 65% palm and 35% coconut. USE A LYE CALCULATOR!

Try the puree at 1 tablespoon per pound once you're sure you know how to make a batch of soap that actually works.  

You said your wife has unexplained illness. The skin is a sensitive organ, and readily absorbs chemicals. If she's already ill, you don't want to make it worse with more chemicals. And you don't want to give her chemical burns or make her hair fall out worse. 

You don't want people to sue you because your soap burned their skin.

It!s not at all about perfect soap, it's about SAFE soap. I don't care if you make ugly, stinky, drying soap, as long as it isn't going to hurt anyone.


----------



## The Efficacious Gentleman

If you are serious, I would forget everything that this seminar has taught you.  It sounds dangerous and is stopping good advice coming in.  

As Susie and many many others have said - make a batch or two with just water, no additives.  You won't sell these first few batches anyway as you need to see how they feel and so on.  Then when you know how it will look and how the process works in general, then you can start adding in things.  After a while, you'll have your soap.

The recipe above is a good mix - I would have also suggested that, if palm and CO are almost the same price, there is no sense going with a high CO amount.  None at all.

And yes yes yes - learn to use a lye calculator.  Soap Calc _looks_ complicated, but it can be very simple to use.  Each section has a number and instructions to walk you through it.  If you are not sure of anything, ask in here and people will help you out.  For example, what should I put in sections 3 and 4?  When it comes to it, we can help.

And to answer another question that you had, putting % is great, but if you want a full recipe including lye checked, we would need to know either the batch size or actual amounts of oils.

Slow down, take your time - if you rush, you will waste money at best and at worst fail completely and hurt people.


----------



## Ronzkie26

Thanks Guys.. im sorry if i can reply you right away because im so busy preparing 30th birthday of my wife this coming thursday May 22. My suppose gift is to give here first success batch of soap but it was failed so i think i'll treat her for dinner.. anyway now my mind is fix and i guess the 3rd time im going to make soap would be at least 90% work.. it really helps all your comments and advices her.. esp to mam graceyworks. maybe after my wife birthday im going to try again 3rd time to wish me luck guys.. Thanks and God Bless everyone!


----------



## Susie

*PLEASE* learn to use SoapCalc!  For your safety, for your wife's safety!

You only have to click the lye you want to use(NaOH), then the oils you want to add.  Type in the percentage you want for each oil, tell it how many grams or ounces you want it to be, then click calculate at the bottom.  Click on "view or print recipe", and you will get a perfect amount of lye to use on that page.  You can then either print out that page, or save it to a file in your computer.  But ALWAYS save the recipe so you will know what you did.


----------



## seven

On your 3rd attempt, please please ditch the cdea and silicate. Just coz others are using them doesn't mean you also have to. Read around to find out why those 2 ingredients are not good for handmade soap (DeeAnna's links are starters) and be proud of yourself for creating a soap that is safe to use.

Test your product before offering it for sale to the public. If your 3rd attempt is successful doesn't mean the soap is ready to be sold. 

I'm going to be the ..th person to say this: slow down, take your time. Why? For reasons already stated previously by others.

Good luck!


----------



## navigator9

Ronkzie26, I don't think anyone here wants you to quit,  just to slow down. We are all soapmakers here, and love to see others become interested in the process and go on to make wonderful soap. But when you have made only one batch, and it was not even close to being successful, and you say, "i am at now i guess 70% knowledge about making soap.. ", that is very scary. It would be scary if you were just making it for yourself, but because you're planning to sell, and because you're in a big hurry to sell......that makes it a whole different kind of scary. I understand that you're trying to make your life better by supplementing your income, but if you sell soap before you're ready, you could get into very deep trouble if your soap irritates (or worse)someone's skin, and they sue you, and you lose everything.  

It was for this reason that I suggested that you make sugar scrubs and lip balms first, while you study soapmaking. I think papaya sugar scrubs and lip balms sound wonderful!  Soapmaking is not difficult, but there is a so much information you should be familiar with and knowledgeable about before you even think of selling.  If I were you, I would make the other products, and while I was selling those, I would study, study, study all that I could about soapmaking. I would get my hands on some reputable soapmaking books. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E8GWRKS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 and http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OLRM5A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 and http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XJP9G4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 are just a few. I would also study instructional soap videos for more information. http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAADF6209996265D2 and http://www.youtube.com/user/soaping101 are some good ones. Not all videos on youtube about soapmaking teach good soapmaking techniques....be careful! 

 You have access to so much accumulated wisdom and knowledge in this forum. You would do yourself a huge favor to take the advice of people who have stood in your shoes. They can teach you how to avoid mistakes so that you don't have to make them yourself. Please take advantage of what they have to offer. I sincerely wish you nothing but good luck and success.


----------



## Obsidian

I'm curious, why do you keep adding 35% lye? Where are you getting that number? Here is a complete recipe for 2 lbs of soap using grayceworks recipe. Please, stop using those chemical additives, they can cause cancer. Pure natural soap is much better. 

I agree, you need to forget everything you learned from that seminar. Just because thats how most people do it, doesn't mean its right. Many years ago, most soapers here in the USA, added ammonia and borax to their soaps. Made great laundry soap, not so good for the skin. Science has taught us then simple and natural is better.

Palm Oil        20.8 ounces
Coconut Oil   8 ounces
Castor Oil     3.2 ounces

Water          12 ounces ( if using papaya, use 6 ounces of water and 6 ounces of papaya puree. Add the puree at trace)
Lye             4.58 ounces


----------



## The Efficacious Gentleman

In the interests of safety, I will confirm that there are no typing errors in Obsi's recipe there - not wanting to seem petty or anything, it's just that typing errors are one reason why people will rarely post lye amounts as suggestions.  I just want to make it clear.

Make that recipe (with no other ingredients!) and you'll have a nice soap.


----------



## DeeAnna

I have read some of the training manuals for making soap in poorer countries like the Philippines. Many of the people who write these manuals are experienced in making soap in a big factory. They do not always know the best way to make soap by hand. One clue is they use chemicals that are really not needed in good handmade soap.

Spend your money on good oils and fats. Do not waste your money on unnecessary additives like preservatives, CDEA, and sodium silicate. Learn how to make good, safe soap without that stuff.


----------



## Ankh

Hello there.....
its really sad to c d disaster!(ya i knw how it feels, happend with me too!).. well firstly EVEN I AM A NEWBIE, but still i would want to advice u;-) because recently i made papaya soap and it really turned out very well...

lets not make it too long n boring..

firstly 60% of coconut will be too drying...
if u wana go down on budget try using lard or tallow(olive oil being a lil on expensive side, in my country atleast..) along with coconut oil. 
never go 30% n above with coconut oil! it can be too drying!

total oils should make 100% excluding additives

lets say

65% tallow/ lard
30% coconut oil
5% castor oil
(i made tallow 65% cuz you wouldent wana add too much of castor oil as it can make soap slimey and sticky. castor oil should be used only till 7% atleast i do so)

secondly, you really dont need to add all such additives, normal oil and lye+ papaya and water n TADAA! u hav ua soap...

also, split the amount of liquid you gonna be using for your batch into 2 parts- half water to mix the lye in and half papaya pure(preferably thin).

mix up your lye solution and when it cools to around 25-30 degree C add your papaya paste to it...

later on continuing with d regular process..


oh! ya and also, pls try and avoid using ml as your measurement. either use oz or gram.. but no ml pls unless u know the volume of each oil.. 
i have done this same mistake of using ml.. and ended up rebatching my full batch because it became lye heavy:crazy: 

and i am still have some more of it to go!

and you can try bramble berry soap cal.. its pretty simple to use..
 hope this was helpfull..  GOOD LUCK! 

btw, if palm is cheap you can anyday go with it... cz u know some people out there like their soaps to be vegan....


----------



## Oenone

Also, don't forget to give your soap time to cure before selling


----------



## Susie

Oenone said:


> Also, don't forget to give your soap time to cure before selling



Or using.


----------



## haksaktiawan

Ronzkie , I really understand your situation. I live in a country that has the same problem as The Philippines.

the 'key' of success is being extra patient. You have to try and try again until you get a successful batch of soap. When you have a good batch, try some variations like adding some EO, puree, honey, sugar, salt, herbs, etc.

I think it's a great idea if you make an 100% natural soap without any chemical added (except NaOH of course). Like DeeAnna said that most of soap making manuals in The Philippines are using chemical added. So, if you make an 100% natural one, you will have good different product among others.


----------



## reinbeau

Ronzkie26 said:


> Thanks Guys.. im sorry if i can reply you right away because im so busy preparing 30th birthday of my wife this coming thursday May 22. My suppose gift is to give here first success batch of soap but it was failed so i think i'll treat her for dinner.. anyway now my mind is fix and i guess the 3rd time im going to make soap would be at least 90% work.. it really helps all your comments and advices her.. esp to mam graceyworks. maybe after my wife birthday im going to try again 3rd time to wish me luck guys.. Thanks and God Bless everyone!


You want to give her a great birthday present?  STOP ignoring the good advice you've been given here and LISTEN.  Sorry, but this thread is very frustrating, to see you go back to the awful advice you've received elsewhere.  You want to make soap?  Then make it with the advice you've been given here.


----------



## hmlove1218

Ronzkie26 said:


> The reason why i want to venture this kind of business because many Filipino want to become white there skin and look like socialite person. They buy cosmetic products that contains whitening even is not proven to make there skin white. *so its a lucrative business here in Philippines making whitening soap.*
> 
> Of course im listening to them but most of there recommendation are way good and making perfect soap and if im going to follow them then i cannot get the budget range which i want to make soap that affordable to the market ($1-1.50USD each bar of soap).. coz mainly *the front of my soap is PAPAYA Herbal Whitening Soap.* *never mind the quality* this time even though i would use let say 90% Coco Oil then 10% Castor Oil or 60% Coco Oil, 30% Palm Oil and 10% Castor Oil.



Soap is not whitening.  Soap cannot lighten the skin.  The soap that you are making is going to burn someone's skin off and you say that you don't care.  Please listen to the advice that you have been given.  _Slow down_ and learn how to make _safe_ soap before you try selling it.  You're going to seriously hurt someone with the recipes you've posted here.


----------



## Dahila

AustinStraight said:


> I'd definitely recommend starting with simple, relatively inexpensive projects like lip balm, lotion bars, etc. don't be discouraged though! You just need to do more research before making soap.


 
sorry I do not agree; I made my first soap (I am not selling ) 9 months ago and have quiet a number behind me.   I started to read this forum and some others like Teach soap.  My first soap is too drying for my skin (20%CO) but my husband loves it.  I use around 15% CO and it is just right for me.  
People are right about soap/calc,  it is dangerous to use lye without the exact percentage and knowledge how to use it.
I watched a hundred of videos and readed a thousand of pages then started to make the soaps)
This forum is an ocean of knowledge and helpful people.  
You do not have to be good at math to use soapcalc, it does job for you. 
Maybe you should read a bit about soap making.  Good luck:mrgreen:


----------



## haksaktiawan

hmlove1218 said:


> Soap is not whitening.  Soap cannot lighten the skin.  The soap that you are making is going to burn someone's skin off and you say that you don't care.  Please listen to the advice that you have been given.  _Slow down_ and learn how to make _safe_ soap before you try selling it.  You're going to seriously hurt someone with the recipes you've posted here.



hmmm. I disagree that soap really can not lighten the skin. In south east Asia, you can find so many whitening soap. Some of them are not natural, but it's not difficult to find some natural whitening soaps. It's not the soap (oils and NaOH) that make our skin brighter, but the additives works.

to brighten skin, we use papaya or bengkuang puree. Milk, coconut milk, even honey also can make our skin look brighter.
Malay people have brown skin. With good nourishing additives, our skin will be look brighter, but when we are exposed to sunlight too long, our skin will be darker. 

*I like my skin, it's very easy to darken but also not difficult to get brighter skin. haha...*

I think every one makes soap with different purpose. It's very common here that we use soap to brighten our skin. Of course, it's not the soap base does, but the additives.


----------



## navigator9

haksaktiawan said:


> hmmm. I disagree that soap really can not lighten the skin. In south east Asia, you can find so many whitening soap. Some of them are not natural, but it's not difficult to find some natural whitening soaps. It's not the soap (oils and NaOH) that make our skin brighter, but the additives works.
> 
> to brighten skin, we use papaya or bengkuang puree. Milk, coconut milk, even honey also can make our skin look brighter.
> Malay people have brown skin. With good nourishing additives, our skin will be look brighter, but when we are exposed to sunlight too long, our skin will be darker.
> 
> *I like my skin, it's very easy to darken but also not difficult to get brighter skin. haha...*
> 
> I think every one makes soap with different purpose. It's very common here that we use soap to brighten our skin. Of course, it's not the soap base does, but the additives.



Those of us with light skin lay in the sun, or use sunless tanners to make our skin darker. Brown skin is beautiful, why would you want to change it?


----------



## dixiedragon

I don't think "bright" is the same thing as "white". Dark skin can be "bright" - healthy, even toned, have a healthy glow. 

I agree with HMlove. It doesn't sound like Ron wants to make a quality soap - or even a safe soap. it just sounds like he/she wants to make something cheap, slap the label "whitening" on it and sell it.


----------



## haksaktiawan

navigator9 said:


> Those of us with light skin lay in the sun, or use sunless tanners to make our skin darker. Brown skin is beautiful, why would you want to change it?



Many people here like to change their skin tone. Sometimes we want brighter skin, but sometimes we want darker skin. Some people do that just for changing their appearance when they feel 'bored' and want a new look.

It's a little bit silly when you know that white people want to have brown skin, but we want 'white' skin. haha...

your white skin is beautiful, why do you want to darken it?
*same question*


----------



## navigator9

haksaktiawan said:


> Many people here like to change their skin tone. Sometimes we want brighter skin, but sometimes we want darker skin. Some people do that just for changing their appearance when they feel 'bored' and want a new look.
> 
> It's a little bit silly when you know that white people want to have brown skin, but we want 'white' skin. haha...
> 
> your white skin is beautiful, why do you want to darken it?
> *same question*



We all want what we haven't got. People with curly hair, straighten it, those with straight hair get perms. Sadly, I guess it's just human nature. It's a shame we can't just learn to be happy with what we have. That being said, I think that most of us who are pale, think we look healthier with a little color. (Even though now we know it causes skin damage.) I think brown skin covers a lot of imperfections that show up easily on pale skin. Pale skin is more fragile, burns more easily, wrinkles more, gets "age spots".....there's a lot to be said for brown skin!!!


----------



## dixiedragon

haksaktiawan said:


> Many people here like to change their skin tone. Sometimes we want brighter skin, but sometimes we want darker skin. Some people do that just for changing their appearance when they feel 'bored' and want a new look.
> 
> It's a little bit silly when you know that white people want to have brown skin, but we want 'white' skin. haha...
> 
> your white skin is beautiful, why do you want to darken it?
> *same question*


 
My feeling on this is because it's one thing for natural tanning to happen, or to stain your skin. That's not harmful. Well, extreme tanning is harmful. I'm no experty, but it seems to me like bleaching skin would be harmful.

Plus, I don't see how a soap - not a leave-on product - would be able to bleach OR darken skin. I have no idea what sort of regulations apply to this poster's potential product, but I don't support lying about a product.


----------



## reinbeau

You are discussing cultural differences here.  We don't have the right to judge a society and a people we don't live with.  My sister in law is Philippine and now I understand what the OP wants to do.  He isn't trying to do anything wrong,  he's just misguided in his methods.


----------



## AustinStraight

Dahila said:


> sorry I do not agree; I made my first soap (I am not selling ) 9 months ago and have quiet a number behind me.   I started to read this forum and some others like Teach soap.  My first soap is too drying for my skin (20%CO) but my husband loves it.  I use around 15% CO and it is just right for me.
> People are right about soap/calc,  it is dangerous to use lye without the exact percentage and knowledge how to use it.
> I watched a hundred of videos and readed a thousand of pages then started to make the soaps)
> This forum is an ocean of knowledge and helpful people.
> You do not have to be good at math to use soapcalc, it does job for you.
> Maybe you should read a bit about soap making.  Good luck:mrgreen:



I just mean if you want to make cosmetics but need more time to learn & gain confidence before making soap, you ought to start by making things like lotion bars that aren't likely to burn your skin off...


----------



## DeeAnna

Hm. Well, I started making soap ... then branched off into lotions and balms. Diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks....


----------



## Sweetlily321

Just read this whole thing and all I can add is. Please slow down. Stop listen and read all the information you can on every thing soapmaking. Ask questions and be open-minded to the answers on this form. I would hate to read that you hurt someone.


----------



## Ronzkie26

Thanks Guys.. im back! Later im gonna make my 3rd time of making soap.. this time i won't use anymore chemical like CDEA and Sodium Silicate. Just an Coconut Oil and Castor Oil w/ Papaya Puree.. i can't buy Palm Oil due to lack of funds so just two kinds of oil i will use tonight.. sorry if people got frustrated of my post.. yeah were in different cultures and situation. and yes im in misguided as what i saw and read because im new to this but i know this won't much difficult for me coz i've been different kind of jobs. So thanks guys it really help me a lot all your comments here..


----------



## grayceworks

Ronzkie26 said:


> Thanks Guys.. im back! Later im gonna make my 3rd time of making soap.. this time i won't use anymore chemical like CDEA and Sodium Silicate. Just an Coconut Oil and Castor Oil w/ Papaya Puree.. i can't buy Palm Oil due to lack of funds so just two kinds of oil i will use tonight.. sorry if people got frustrated of my post.. yeah were in different cultures and situation. and yes im in misguided as what i saw and read because im new to this but i know this won't much difficult for me coz i've been different kind of jobs. So thanks guys it really help me a lot all your comments here..



Remember:

Small batches until you get the hang of it! 2lbs is good. 

LYE CALCULATOR! Double-check all your numbers before you start, so you don't waste ingredients and money with mis-measuring.

10% or less on the Castor, or you'll have a sticky bar.

At least 10% superfat entered on the lye calculator for this recipe, since you're going to be using so much Coconut oil. 

Watch out for overheating, make sure there's plenty of air circulation to carry the heat away so it doesn't boil over or separate. 

Post your results when you make it! Can't wait to see!


----------



## Ronzkie26

grayceworks said:


> Remember:
> 
> Small batches until you get the hang of it! 2lbs is good.
> 
> LYE CALCULATOR! Double-check all your numbers before you start, so you don't waste ingredients and money with mis-measuring.
> 
> 10% or less on the Castor, or you'll have a sticky bar.
> 
> At least 10% superfat entered on the lye calculator for this recipe, since you're going to be using so much Coconut oil.
> 
> Watch out for overheating, make sure there's plenty of air circulation to carry the heat away so it doesn't boil over or separate.
> 
> Post your results when you make it! Can't wait to see!



yes i'll post it later and follow the what the lye calculator results.. anyway how can i avoid or what is the proper way to avoid overheating?any times mam?thanks.


----------



## grayceworks

Start with your oils fairly cool. Just warm enough for the Coconut oil to be melted completely. Wait for your lye-water to cool down also. Once the coconut oil starts saponifying, it will start heating back up on its own, especially if you use the fruit puree, because sugars cause it to heat up also. You won't need to insulate it. Is it pretty warm where you're at? 

Basically, just keep an eye on it, keep good airflow around it and if you see it starting to rise up or bubble, then get it cooled down. It's usually not too much of a problem though, as long as you soap cool and keep and eye on it.


----------



## seven

To avoid overheating, you can prevent gel altogether by placing the soap in the freezer right after molding. Better yet, place the mold in the freezer before that, and put it back in the freezer once the soap is in.

Another way, you can put the mold next to a blowing fan. The soap will gel, but overheating can be avoided.

Good luck  and i totally understand where you're coming from. I'm asian myself (indonesian), and whitening soap is quite the rage too in here.

Eta: when more funds are available, i suggest buying some palm. You'll create a better soap with it coz palm adds to hardness, mildness (to balance the coconut), and longer lasting bar. You want your soap to lasts a while, right?


----------



## Susie

If you are still on the learning process, then you are not going to be trying to market that soap to muslims.  So, why not try some lard?  I am afraid that you are going to have a really drying bar of soap with just the coconut and castor.  Lard is a wonderful oil in soaps.


----------



## Ronzkie26

YES! Yes! I think this is good so far.. i think i didn't mess-up this time! So this is the sign that im doing good and possibly few days i can start my soap business soon.. so here it is the results of my 3rd attempt of making soap w/o using any chemical, just oil and papaya puree.. but first i'll show you my recipe (temporary) but next time i'll add Palm oil, colorant and fragrance. speaking of colorant and fragrant.. is it ok if i use Powder form of colorant? and where can i find fragrance or what type of fragrance and possibly could you advice me cheap and affordable fragrance? 






[/IMG]

Ok here's the results.. we made two kind of soap..the reason we made two type because i made mistake about the water and oil.. so basically it should be 112g of water coz i'll use Papaya Puree 112g because my total water was 224g so i split it on half. am i right?then about the oil.. i didn't notice that the soapcalc calculator indicate 450g oil but i'll measure it 500g so that's why i make another one. so tonight i made 2 type of soap.. The first one was NO papaya Puree then the second one has.. so here it is...






Ok at first i didn't know how to detect or let say how do i know if my soap already on trace.. so i research internet while my wife keep mixing.. so later on i found out. so here it is.. sorry for my bad english. im so tired today in i have work early morning.. God Bless Guys and thank you for all your help.. its really help me to keep me walking on this Journey on making Soap... Goodnight


----------



## seven

congrats! looks okay from the pics, can't wait to see cut pics. please do post them once available.

after you give these soaps a good cure (4 weeks minimal), try them on yourself and family, see what you/others think about them. i have a feeling this soap is going to be far too drying due to the high content of coconut oil (90%) with only 10% SF. but they are good practice batches to get you familiar with soapmaking. 

powdered or liquid colorants are fine. just make sure they are skin safe. for fragrance/essential oils, i have no idea where to look for them in your country. another option is you can also leave the soap unscented, you know, really aiming for a natural approach. 

*So this is the sign that im doing good and possibly few days i can start my soap business soon*
please don't think that just because these batches turn to soap (in your dictionary = successful), that you are ready to sell. you are far from ready, trust me (you just learned what the word trace meant for god sake). try making more test batches, incorporating palm into the recipe like you said you would, and compare the difference to the soap you just made. test, test, test... make you, your family/friends as guinea pigs. 

take your time, slow down.. you want to enter this business and succeed, right? there's no point going to business in a hurry, far from being ready, and be out in a few months.


----------



## AustinStraight

I agree it will probably be too drying, next time you should bring the superfat up to 15-20%.  I'd stick with at least 18%, you might be able to go a bit below 20 because you have the 10% castor.  Much better than the original recipe though  

Cheap and affordable fragrance: citrus essential oils.  Especially orange.  Just be sure to get the concentrated kind (5x, 6x, 10x, 15x, etc.) otherwise it won't last.  Fragrance oils tend to be pretty cheap, too, maybe $10 for a 4-oz bottle.  You don't have to worry about crop, oil yield, etc. with fragrance oils so their cost is fairly consistent.


----------



## grayceworks

Yay! You did it. Good start! 

Ok, a couple things. A little extra water, or a little less water isn't going to kill your soap. It will be ok, as long as there was enough for the lye to dissolve in.

Your recipe says 500g total oil, with Coconut oil at 450g and Castor at 50g. Do you mean you did the Coconut at 500g and then the Castor at 50g? I'm confused what measurement you think you messed up here. Either way, for this recipe, extra oil will be fine, it will make it less drying by adding to the superfat amount. 

The pics look good, no separating, ricing, etc. Nice and creamy looking. 

For color, you can also think about some natural colors, like paprika, turmeric, calendula leaves (which are awesome in soap, or as an infusion in the oil), and many other natural colors. Search the forum for some of the things people use as colors. 

For scent, yes, you can get cheap fragrance oils, be careful that they're cosmetic and soap-safe. some of them don't react well with lye, and some are not safe for skin. 

Or you can get things like lavender essential oil, citrus oils, like mentioned, mint oils (use in moderation). I agree that citrus would work well with the papaya. When you do decide you're ready to use scents, follow the amount listed in soapcalc for your recipe, after entering the usage rate that the manufacturer says. 

So if the manufacturer says it's safe at 1/2oz per pound of oils, then enter .5 into soapcalc, and it will figure the proper total amount for your recipe. 

Getting the first good batch is the hardest part. The next hardest part is waiting to make sure that the soap is good on skin, after it cures, and making sure your recipe is stable (that it doesn't turn into orange stinky goo after a few months, or make horrible lather, or make people itchy, or dissolve too fast, or leave a residue on skin, etc)

Because a recipe that works for me, with the water I have in my area, in my humidity and temperature conditions in my region, might act totally different in different humidity and with different water mineral content. 

So take your first many batches, as mentioned, let the first ones cure for about 4 weeks, then start handing them out to people to test. While you're waiting, practice making more batches. With colors, without. With scents. With different amounts of puree, different percentages of oils, different superfat settings. This is why we stress small batches at first, which make only a few bars at a time. So that  you can test, test, test. 

So you can become able to CONSISTENTLY make the soap turn out right, and so that you are sure  your soap is good to be sold. Because if your soap doesn't feel good on skin, if it doesn't lather good, if it dissolves into goo, people won't come back to buy more, and then where is your business? Non-existent!!! 

To make your business idea work, you have to make sure you can make a good product that people will come back for over and over, and make it consistently good and safe. 

Practice, practice, practice. You are on the right track now!  Make sure you understand how the oils affect the soap, how the other ingredients affect the soap, how the whole process works. Make sure you can be consistent in your results. Play with the recipe until it gives you the results you are happy with. and let it cure the right amount of time.  

We often see people making soap one day, then selling it the next with no idea what they're doing, and with crazy unsafe recipes and techniques. Like the one you started out with. And they don't care. 

You have listened and learned, and taken the advice to heart, and I think if you just slow down a bit, wait just a bit until you're sure you can do it right every time... I know how hard it is when finances are stressed to the max. But the soap won't be ready to sell for 4 weeks, even if this was your final recipe, which it isn't... So you've got some time to be practicing and experimenting and coming up with your ideal recipe for what you want to do. 


Yes, like you said, it is a Journey. You've passed the first bend in the road... Keep on track and you'll soon get where you want to be! 



Ronzkie26 said:


> YES! Yes! I think this is good so far.. i think i didn't mess-up this time! So this is the sign that im doing good and possibly few days i can start my soap business soon.. so here it is the results of my 3rd attempt of making soap w/o using any chemical, just oil and papaya puree.. but first i'll show you my recipe (temporary) but next time i'll add Palm oil, colorant and fragrance. speaking of colorant and fragrant.. is it ok if i use Powder form of colorant? and where can i find fragrance or what type of fragrance and possibly could you advice me cheap and affordable fragrance?
> 
> 
> Ok here's the results.. we made two kind of soap..the reason we made two type because i made mistake about the water and oil.. so basically it should be 112g of water coz i'll use Papaya Puree 112g because my total water was 224g so i split it on half. am i right?then about the oil.. i didn't notice that the soapcalc calculator indicate 450g oil but i'll measure it 500g so that's why i make another one. so tonight i made 2 type of soap.. The first one was NO papaya Puree then the second one has.. so here it is...
> 
> Ok at first i didn't know how to detect or let say how do i know if my soap already on trace.. so i research internet while my wife keep mixing.. so later on i found out. so here it is.. sorry for my bad english. im so tired today in i have work early morning.. God Bless Guys and thank you for all your help.. its really help me to keep me walking on this Journey on making Soap... Goodnight


----------



## Ronzkie26

Hi!Guys..! Im back.. Well thanks everyone for helping me making soap.. It really worth all ur comments here and advice suggestion especially to maam graceyworks bcoz she wasted her time on me just to advice and teach me. Well appreciated u mam. And to others also thank u very much... Ok the reason i online tonight (bcoz its 10:32pm here now philippines and im on my bed) bcoz i made 4 samples the last two samples (1st & 2nd) are pure herbal.. No chemical added. Then the two which i made yesterday it has chemical like CDEA (1%=5g, Sodium Silicate (1%=5g) and benzalkonium chloride (0.5%=2.5g) of course Colorant 1.5g for a total of 500g of Oil. So the 3rd has Chemical and the 4th None.. But this time i used Palm Oil 200g, Coconut Oil 250g and Castor Oil 50g. So tonight when i check the finish soap i notice a kind of bubble in center of soap and somekind of papaya puree bcoz its like pulp.. Maybe bcoz the 3rd and 4th samples i did not use blender bcoz its broke due to overheat maybe bcoz its cheap so we just smash it on hard wooden until it become really puree but not enough like blender..I think i'll buy when tomorrow after i get my salary. Anyway do u think the papaya puree which is not well blended is the problem?coz the 1st and 2nd sample i used blender except the 3rd and 4th.. Im going to take pocture tomorrow and post it here b4 going to work.ok..Thanks in advance guys and goodnight.


----------



## haksaktiawan

Ronzkie26 said:


> Hi!Guys..! Im back.. Well thanks everyone for helping me making soap.. It really worth all ur comments here and advice suggestion especially to maam graceyworks bcoz she wasted her time on me just to advice and teach me. Well appreciated u mam. And to others also thank u very much... Ok the reason i online tonight (bcoz its 10:32pm here now philippines and im on my bed) bcoz i made 4 samples the last two samples (1st & 2nd) are pure herbal.. No chemical added. Then the two which i made yesterday it has chemical like CDEA (1%=5g, Sodium Silicate (1%=5g) and benzalkonium chloride (0.5%=2.5g) of course Colorant 1.5g for a total of 500g of Oil. So the 3rd has Chemical and the 4th None.. But this time i used Palm Oil 200g, Coconut Oil 250g and Castor Oil 50g. So tonight when i check the finish soap i notice a kind of bubble in center of soap and somekind of papaya puree bcoz its like pulp.. Maybe bcoz the 3rd and 4th samples i did not use blender bcoz its broke due to overheat maybe bcoz its cheap so we just smash it on hard wooden until it become really puree but not enough like blender..I think i'll buy when tomorrow after i get my salary. Anyway do u think the papaya puree which is not well blended is the problem?coz the 1st and 2nd sample i used blender except the 3rd and 4th.. Im going to take pocture tomorrow and post it here b4 going to work.ok..Thanks in advance guys and goodnight.



be careful with papaya puree. I think you have to blend until it looks as smooth as ketchup.
not well blended papaya will spoil faster as it can not be well mixed with the soap base. cmiiw.


----------



## Oenone

An easy way to get some color and scents is to use tea -- like I have some green tea bags and chamomile tea bags in my coconut oil bucket seeping in and I often use tea in place of water for my lye mixture.


----------



## scotsman

Hasn't been a follow up post in a while. Kind of worries me. Maybe I'm a bit crazy but I kind of want to make a really nice, cost-effective batch of papaya soap and mail him a few bars along with the recipe so he can see the result of using a low cost yet quality and safe recipe and giving it an adequate cure time. From reading his posts I'm getting the idea that most of the soaps for sale in his area are made with only cost in mind and a general disregard for whether or not they are safe for use on skin. I seem to remember him saying that where he lives the soaps for sale use mostly if not all coconut oil(not to mention harsh and unsafe chemicals). So I can only infer that most of the people from his area are used to using soaps that are incredibly drying and harsh on the skin. So, if he were to make a great handmade soap that was gentle on the skin and was still cost-effective then he would have a considerable edge over all of his local competition. And therein lies the virtue of patience. He could become a very successful businessman in his area if he doesn't try to rush a hastily made, untested, and potentially unsafe product to market. Sure, he can put out a cheap, inferior product but then he's the same as all the other 'soap' businesses in the area. Nothing to make his product stand out and it will be destined to fall through the cracks and fail. I want to see this guy succeed but I want him to succeed the right way for the sake of himself, his family, and his potential customers.


----------



## scotsman

Ronzkie26, if you happen to read this post please contact me and I will help you. You can make a cheap and wonderful product and potentially be very successful but you need proper guidance so that your product will not fail and you will not end up getting in trouble or sued because your product harms somebody.


----------



## kmarvel

I agree with Shaun!!!!  KUDOS for everyone trying to educate and help this guy.  He has ALOT to learn and trying to help and provide for his Mom.  I wish him all the best!!

 Kathie


----------



## Ronzkie26

scotsman said:


> Ronzkie26, if you happen to read this post please contact me and I will help you. You can make a cheap and wonderful product and potentially be very successful but you need proper guidance so that your product will not fail and you will not end up getting in trouble or sued because your product harms somebody.



Sir thank you.. i send you message.. plz check ur inbox.. God Bless.


----------

