# Syndet Shampoo Bar Recipe?



## JillGat

Can someone post a syndet shampoo bar recipe here?  I went to SwiftMonkey's site and cannot seem to follow her directions.  She assumes some knowledge that I don't have and then I have to do a lot of searching on her site to find it.  Or she'll say something like, "you can use either U^%88755ZZX or increase the amount of [email protected]#$332 if you want." (I made up those ingredients, but that's what they look like to me).  How would I know what I want?  Anyway, I posted this question on another soapmaking forum and got chewed up and spit out for being too "lazy" to do more of my own research.

I've made conditioner using behentrimonium and cetyl alcohol (from lotioncrafter.com), so I'm not afraid of chemicals.

So anyway, I would love to see a straight-forward recipe for a syndet shampoo bar or a link to a site where I can find one.

Thanks!
Jill


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## cherrycoke216

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=61840

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=61716

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=61512

Yup, it IS intimidating! And yes, I'm handling you threads. I'm no guru, too. So have been experimenting. I, too, wish there's a syndet shampoo bar fairy to guide my bumpy road. 

The last thread I'm sharing on post #6 dahlia have post her recipe based on swift crafty monkey's. ( she added her side notes on Susan's formula )

I started with SLS because it's the only powdered surfactant available in smaller quantity in my country. People have tried SLSA and SCS in other countries. Susan tweak her formula from the Dish forum's contributor. ( sorry I don't go there, so forgot her name. ) it calls two surfactant or more because she wanted a milder shampoo bar. I use SLS and coco betaine ( can't remember the longer name ). And do wear a filter mask or respirator!!! SLS powder is so fine, it easily gets in your lung. It is no joke and is health hazard substance.

And please anyone is a guru, or a more experienced syndet shampoo bar maker, or someone like me still learning, do stop by and chat with your experience. :bunny:


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## Dahila

Swift monkey gives you ready formula for using,  Do not complain,  Make one CONDITIONING SHAMPOO BAR SUITABLE FOR DRY HAIR

HEATED PHASE
30% SCI (with stearic acid)
22% SLSa or other powdered surfactant Could be Bioterge As90 (very bubbly) 
10% SMC or SMO taurate or other gentle surfactant I use Stephan BSB for this
15% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% cetyl alcohol
3% Incroquat BTMS-50 or cetrimonium bromide
10% hard butter of choice
2% hydrolyzed protein

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
1% dimethicone
2% essential oil blend
0.5% to 1% preservative

SHAMPOO BAR FOR DRY HAIR
30% SCI noodles or flakes
30% SLSa
25% BSB or baby blend concentrate
3% cetyl alcohol
3% emulsifying wax, Polawax, or Incroquat BTMS
2% very moisturizing butter or coconut oil
2% conditioning agent–Incroquat BTMS or CR
1% hydrolyzed proteins – silk is a great choice for dry hair!
1% panthenol
1% dimethicone
2% essential oil blend or fragrance oil
I do not think it is confusing,  at all
I printed it, and made it one 4 years ago, then I am making a lot of them and of course different now,  I am selling it.  Very easy to follow, the only thing you need to get surfacants, they are very expensive in Canada, but you get them super cheap in States
I think Stephan is the best with surfacants, he has a lot of combination so you need just two of them, one powder, one liquid or two, and that it


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## randycoxclemson

I almost never repeat a soap recipe with one exception ... my shampoo bar.  I use nothing but a shampoo bar and spray watered-down (very watered down) apple cider vinegar then comb and let things air dry.  I have noticed no hair problems.  Then again, I don't have long flowing hair and my hair is dry.  Maybe that makes a difference.  I even carry my shampoo bar on the road when traveling.


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## DeeAnna

Simple shampoo bar (syndet based)

Heated phase
Solid fat	 … 	3%	 … 	Possibilities: tallow, lard, palm, mango butter, coconut, babassu, etc. Don't go overboard on fats -- this is a shampoo not a conditioner.
Conditioning emulsifier	 … 	3%	 … 	This is a generic version of the emulsifier BTMS. Can use emulsifying wax (e-wax) instead.
Stearic acid	 … 	3%	 … 	Thickener. Could substitute cetyl alcohol. Makes the bar a bit less water soluble so it doesn't dissolve too easily.
SCI 	 … 	28%	 … 	Sodium cocoyl isethionate. Surfactant, powder. Mild. Creamy foam.
SLSA	 … 	33%	 … 	Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate. Surfactant, powder. Not quite as mild as SCI. Adds bubbles. 
Cocamidopropyl betaine	 … 	26%	 … 	aka CAPB. Surfactant, liquid. Do NOT use more CAPB, even though you might want to.

Heated phase OR cool-down phase
Preservative	 … 	0.5%	 … 	Preservative is NOT OPTIONAL. I use phenonip and put it in the heated phase. Liquid Germall Plus is fine, but is heat sensitive, so include it in the cool-down phase. See notes below for more.

Cool-down phase 
Panthenol	 … 	2%	 … 	Optional. If you omit this, add this % to the SCI or SLSA.
Fragrance	 … 	1.5%	 … 	Optional. If you omit this, add this % to the SCI or SLSA.

For a pale to medium color -> add 1 drop of liquid colorant per 100 grams of product. Add to the heated phase. I use ultramarine blue or green chromium oxide in glycerin.

Put all ingredients for the heated phase (including colorant if using) into a microwave safe container. Microwave in 15-30 second bursts. Stir thoroughly after each heating. Repeat until all ingredients are all melted and there are no variations in the color (if you're using colorant). 

When fully melted and mixed, the product will be a sticky paste. Do NOT add any water, cocamidopropyl betaine, or other water-based ingredients to loosen the product.

Stir in the cool-down ingredients when the temp is below 120 F (50 C). Immediately glop into small containers. I make about 50 grams per bar -- this is about 1 month of shampoos for me and my DH. Put into the refrigerator to cool and firm up. Unmold and let the product dry for a day or two before use.

Notes: 

*SCI and SLSA are dusty and very irritating* to the nose and lungs. When weighing and mixing these products when they're dry, be careful -- work under a vent hood, work outdoors, or wear a respirator.

SCI comes in a flake, noodle or "prill" form. The first two forms may have stearic acid in the product. The prill (a very fine bead) does not, and this is what I am using and what this recipe is based on. If you get SCI with stearic in it, you may want to adjust the recipe.

It may be possible to use SCI for all of the SLSA if you want to try only one solid surfactant. I haven't done this, but I would first try only SCI if I thought I wanted to simplify further.

The temp limit of 120 F (50 C) is critical if using Liquid Germall Plus. If using Phenonip which goes in the heated phase, then the only cool-down ingredients are the fragrance and panthenol. Temperature isn't too critical for these ingredients, so I add them right after I know the mixture is fully melted. That lets me get the paste in the molds as soon as possible when it's warm and easier to handle. The trade-off is there might be a little less fragrance in the finished product, but that's okay with me.

I want to acknowledge that this recipe has been adapted from one provided by "Cathy" at The Dish. My thanks to Cathy for her generosity!


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## cherrycoke216

DeeAnna and dahlia, if you ever come back to this thread, have you notice any difference between SCI & SLSA combo with commercial brand shampoo bar? ( if you ever tried any commercial syndet shampoo bar or small business syndet shampoo bar )
< ok, or compare it to other commercial liquid shampoo will do >

The reason I ask this is I want to know if it is worth it to import a small bag of SCI and SLSA just for trying a new combo? Like import via sea cargo probably will reduce some freight cost.  
Thanks in advance for any input.


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## JillGat

Thanks, all!  I found some of these ingredients at LotionCrafter.com.  Any other recommendations for suppliers (in the US)?

Here is the kind of thing that trips me up, as a beginner: 

[[30% SCI (with stearic acid)]]

I had to look up what SCI stood for.  And "with stearic acid"... does that mean I add stearic acid, and if so, how much?  Or does SCI come in a version with stearic acid in it?  And where do I get SCI? I don't see it on the few sites I know of that carry this kind of thing.


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## dixiedragon

I have seen a lot of these at Ingredients to Die For. They seem to specialize in more chemically-complex things (such as shampoo bars) vs more "simple" CP soap. I have thought about emailing them in a link to the Swiftcraftymonkey page on shampoo bars and ask them what to buy and for some more detailed instructions.


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## Dahila

JillGat said:


> Thanks, all!  I found some of these ingredients at LotionCrafter.com.  Any other recommendations for suppliers (in the US)?
> 
> Here is the kind of thing that trips me up, as a beginner:
> 
> [[30% SCI (with stearic acid)]]
> the ones shaped like noodles are usually with stearic acid.  I buy powder,  less work for me
> I had to look up what SCI stood for.  And "with stearic acid"... does that mean I add stearic acid, and if so, how much?  Or does SCI come in a version with stearic acid in it?  And where do I get SCI? I don't see it on the few sites I know of that carry this kind of thing.


mine is not with stearic acid I add I believe 2.5% stearic and 2.5% cetyl alcohol,
I hope I would not have to go back to commercial shampoos,  it is a nightmare to have itchy scalp all the time.  When I make my own my skin is good and healthy.  
SCI is very mild and beautiful powder, must have it.  
I switched to Phenonip too ,  like DeeAnna,  it is impossible to mix Germal when it cools down so Phenonip is the one


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## DeeAnna

Cherrycoke -- No idea how my recipe compares -- I've never used a syndet shampoo bar before I made my own. I'm not a super particular person about my hair, but I do like it best when it's manageable and soft. Now that I've used this recipe for some months, is my fine, wavy shoulder-length hair has become softer to the touch and feels light in the sense that it's not weighed down with too much stuff. The dry ends of my hair don't feel like rough straw. I can comb my hair fairly easily when wet. It is behaving like it does when using a good quality liquid commercial shampoo. I don't have to use a conditioner every time I shampoo to keep my hair soft and easy to comb (I'm working on a conditioner bar too). In very dry or extra humid weather, a conditioner that controls static or frizz might be helpful -- except for the panthenol, this shampoo recipe doesn't have additives to help with those issues. I'm not saying it works miracles, but for me it works plenty good.

JillGat -- Yes, some types of SCI have stearic acid in it. My understanding is the SCI with stearic is the stuff in the flake or noodle form. The product I'm using is a "prill" which is a very tiny bead, and it doesn't have stearic acid in it. If you get SCI with stearic then I would probably adjust the recipe to compensate if the stearic is a large % of the product. I get supplies at Lotioncrafter and also SaveOnCitric. As Dixie mentioned, Ingredients to Die For is another reputable option.

Updated my original post (#20) in response to these questions.


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## JillGat

Okay, here is what I came up with for a 500g batch of syndet shampoo.  There are a few questions sprinkled in, too, but I think I got most of it!

Syndet Shampoo, 500g

(All ingredients found on http://www.saveoncitric.com)


Heated phase:
15g	Shea Butter (does it have to be a solid fat or would argan oil work?)
15g	Emulsifying Wax *(I had BTMS-25 in here before, but changed it)
*
15g	stearic acid 
140g	Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate powder (SCI) (what is “prill form” and do I need that?)
165g 	sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (SLSA) (is powder or flakes better?)
130g	Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB)

Cool Down Phase
2.5g	Liquid Germall plus
10g	Panthenol		
7.5g	Fragrance
I might add a bit of Keratin here too... not sure how much

I just talked to the guy at http://www.saveoncitric.com/ and he is very knowledgeable and helpful.  I ordered the stuff and am looking forward to any comments on my recipe listed above.  I edited it and made a couple of changes.
Thanks!


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## WeaversPort

At some point I might tackle this. I have both itchy scalp and super fine/straight hair. After going through so many shampoos, I'd been hoping shampoo bars would be a good option but heard many of the stories here about hair damage. 

This might be a good project for future me.


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## Dahila

the only thing, my syndet shampoo with shea is gross, but cocoa butter or even better Kokum butter; perfect 
500 g is a huge amount of shampoo.  when I try to make something new I always go with 100 g except soap


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## DeeAnna

Yeah, I agree with Dahlia -- I can't emphasize this enough -- don't make more than 100 grams for a test recipe. For me, that's 2 months of shampoos for 2 people which is like forever if you don't like the stuff. Start small!


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## JillGat

Thanks, all.  So if I go with a 100g recipe, some of the ingredients will only weigh a gram or two.

Does anyone know where to get a dome mold that holds about 100g?



Dahila said:


> the only thing, my syndet shampoo with shea is gross, but cocoa butter or even better Kokum butter; perfect
> 500 g is a huge amount of shampoo.  when I try to make something new I always go with 100 g except soap



I've never heard of kokum butter... will have to look that up.  The problem with making 100g of this is that my scale won't measure fractions of a gram or sometimes even just one gram.  How do you get around that?


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## Dahila

yeah you need the 0.1 g at least.


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## DeeAnna

I don't use an official mold -- I use small plastic cups that originally contained fruit. They come in my mother's Meals on Wheels lunches.

You can also mound the product on a sheet of waxed paper and put it in the fridge to cool. When it is cool enough to be pliable yet not so sticky, you can mold it into patties with your hands. Just like making cookies. That works well too.

Here is the small scale that works well for tiny batches:
http://www.oldwillknottscales.com/my-weigh-ibalance-300.html
The exact same scale looks to be on sale here: 
http://www.oldwillknottscales.com/pinewood-derby-scale.html
And here's another option for less money:
http://www.oldwillknottscales.com/my-weigh-mx-500.html
You can find these scales on Amazon too.


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## JillGat

DeeAnna said:


> I don't use an official mold -- I use small plastic cups that originally contained fruit. They come in my mother's Meals on Wheels lunches.
> 
> You can also mound the product on a sheet of waxed paper and put it in the fridge to cool. When it is cool enough to be pliable yet not so sticky, you can mold it into patties with your hands. Just like making cookies. That works well too.



GREAT info.  Thanks.

I did it!  It's in the refrigerator now.  Not that hard.  Are these ingredients that one should not touch with one's bare hands?  Some of that stuff is pretty awful to breathe. I could even tell with a mask on.  I need to find a small, smooth bowl for the cool-down ingredients.  I used a tupperware type thing that had rough sides.  Seems like, with such minute measurements, it's important to get all you can into the mix.  I added 16 drops of silk amino acids. Is that okay or not recommended?

I really appreciate all the help here. You are great.

(by "not that hard" I meant not that difficult)


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## DeeAnna

Don't measure the cool-down ingredients into a separate container -- you're right that this introduces far too much error. That will be true even with a smooth container. Measure these ingredients directly into the main container of "dough". Get disposable pipettes if needed so you can add single drops for accuracy.


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## Dahila

I love silk amino acids but it is expensive,  I do add oat protein though.  No you did not ruin the shampoo with silk, rather the opposite,  I cure it so it looses extra moisture for two three weeks before using.  You can use it today if you wish.


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## JillGat

DeeAnna said:


> Don't measure the cool-down ingredients into a separate container -- you're right that this introduces far too much error. That will be true even with a smooth container. Measure these ingredients directly into the main container of "dough". Get disposable pipettes if needed so you can add single drops for accuracy.



Okay, that makes sense.  I'll have to find a lighter container for the main dough, though, because my scale that measures small amounts only goes up to 100g.  Oh, the complications!


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## DeeAnna

Another alternative if you don't have a scale with a large enough capacity is to weigh the cool down ingredients into a container large enough for everything and then scrape the "dough" into that container. Although there's some loss, the loss of a bit of the "dough" is less critical than losing some of the cool down ingredients.


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## JillGat

DeeAnna said:


> Another alternative if you don't have a scale with a large enough capacity is to weigh the cool down ingredients into a container large enough for everything and then scrape the "dough" into that container. Although there's some loss, the loss of a bit of the "dough" is less critical than losing some of the cool down ingredients.



Excellent idea. Thanks.


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## Dahila

Actually Cathy was my inspiration too,  the instruction are from Susan 

I am not sure if it was here, but someone wanted to see my planned )lightly planned syndet each of them is 72 g.  They are snow white but the light seemed to make them yellow


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## DeeAnna

My syndet shampoo bars look a lot like Dahlia's.


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## Dahila

DeeAnna this time I had added 2% of Sodium Lactate,  it still need some gentle wash with clothes and it is going to look ok  Kokum butter helps a lot


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## DeeAnna

Thanks, Dahlia! Did you think the sodium lactate helped with the smoothness? I know it makes soap more fluid, so I'm wondering what it does with syndets.


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## JillGat

Dahila said:


> DeeAnna this time I had added 2% of Sodium Lactate,  it still need some gentle wash with clothes and it is going to look ok  Kokum butter helps a lot



Wash with clothes?


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## DeeAnna

I think Dahlia meant to say this -- the bar needed a gentle polish with a damp cloth.


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## Dahila

how come DeeAnna always understand me, or Irishlass or Susie  thanks <3

I did so ,  it was your idea with sodium lactate, I think it was easier to mold and smooth it up.  It will evaporate anyway.  I almost had not get the air bubbles this time Thank you for fantastic ideas DeeAnna


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## baylee

If adding 2% sodium lactate, which ingredient would you subtract that 2%?


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## DeeAnna

Sodium lactate is a liquid at least how most of us use it. The solution is about 60% SL and the rest water if my memory is correct. I'd probably subtract the % from the CAPB, which is also a liquid. Uh, I ~think~ CAPB is about 30% surfactant. The rest will be mostly water. 

It's important to not get too much water-based stuff in the bars. If you add too much water, the bars will remain somewhat soft even after a long drying period.


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## baylee

Thanks, that makes perfect sense.


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## cherrycoke216

Have anyone tried coca betaine or liquid surfactant in 8-10%? 
I use SLS and Coca betaine because it's what's available in hobby quantity. Haven't ventured into import some SCI yet. 

But more powder surfactant and less liquid surfactant is not that gooey sticky. In my opinion, it's easier to work with. But Other powder/ prill/ flake surfactant & liquid surfactant might be another animal...

@JillGat
I use argan oil from my very first batch. Haven't tried use only hard butter yet. I imagine it would be softer than just any butter. ( so in an " more liquid surfactant batch", like 26% it would be very soft. That was my first batch. It's still sticky the next morning,so I added another 3% cetyl alcohol to compensate it. 
This is my rustic argan oil shampoo bar.




By the way, I find putting liquid surfactant in the powder surfactant bag and let it soak a night ( or a bit ) before you stir will eliminate some dusty powder in the air.
Even I use a spoon to measure powder surfactant it is so IRRITATING!!! I might just put all the % of liquid surfactant in my powder surfactant bag. And it's all done. 


And can anyone tell me a better way to measure panthenol? It's so gooey and moves so slow. And if I use a spoon or mini spatula it sticks on the spoon.  So I can't measure it very precisely. Duh...!


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## Dahila

You do add oils to your syndet bar?


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## DeeAnna

cherrycoke216 said:


> Have anyone tried coca betaine or liquid surfactant in 8-10%?
> 
> And can anyone tell me a better way to measure panthenol?



When people say they're using coco betaine (CB) in a syndet cleanser, they actually are using Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB). CAPB is a syndet and CB is not.

You'll see statements like these all throughout the internet:
LeafTV: "...Coco betaine is shorthand for the chemical cocamidopropyl betaine...."
Truth in aging: "Coco betain ...A derivative of cocamide and glycine betaine. Its made from coconut oil, and comes in the form of a pale yellow liquid. Also known as cocamidopropyl betaine...."
Ingredients to die for: "...CocoBetaine (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) is used in shampoos, bubble baths and liquid hand soaps...."

Even Susan (swiftcraftymonkey) acknowledged she was confusing CB with CAPB not too long ago. Her comments about the confusion in the names led me into reading more about this issue. The reason why people latch onto the idea of using coco betaine is that it is a more a "natural" ingredient. Problem is, CB is not a surfactant.

More info about the difference between CB and CAPB:
https://realizebeauty.wordpress.com...camidopropyl-betaine-are-different-chemicals/
http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/1748/coco-betaine-vs-cocamidopropyl-betaine 

If you go back to my recipe for a syndet shampoo bar earlier in this thread, you'll see I include CAPB at 26% of the formulation.

The panthenol I have is a powder from Lotioncrafter. It is easy to measure and use.


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## Dahila

Thanks DeeAnna, like always fantastic post,  so CAPB is the one I use,  But is always a secondary surfacant, on it's own not to bubbly


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## cherrycoke216

Thanks DeeAnna! Always so helpful, insightful!!! 

But this makes me wonder, what's the "coco betaine" in some upscale, big brand name, even organic shampoo. Are they using CAPB and list a more natural coco betaine to get away with it?

A link you listed said coco betaine is a surfactant. I'm really confused.

The supplier of mine use terms like " KAO ( Japanese manufacturer) betaine surfactant " , this is what's in my language translated into English. Now I'm gonna call this morning to make sure what I get.

@ dahila
Yes, I use argan oil to replace butters. I use same percentage as butter. Now I wonder what a bar using hard butter & stearic acid as bar hardener will feel like in my subtropical weather.   (I use cetyl alcohol as bar hardener )


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## Dahila

Cherrycoke I use kokum butter and found it is the best in syndet, it is pricey but worth it, I had not liked cocoa butter in it.


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## DeeAnna

"...Are they using CAPB and list a more natural coco betaine to get away with it?..."

Yes, that's what is happening. It may well be an honest mistake, and LOT of people are making this mistake. Coco betaine is not a surfactant despite what people think. CB just plain will not work as a cleanser -- but CAPB will.


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## yumyum1311

Hello! Does this topic still continue??? I made a few batch of shampoo syndet bar, quite good but I'm Vietnamese and the weather in Vietnam is so hot, usually about35- 40°C in summer. So, I have some questions:
- Does someone try to make shampoo bar with all solid surfactant, replace liquid surfactant into powder surfactant??? In Vietnam, weather is too hot and I think add too much liquid can make bar "smush". But I don't see any recipe write about that
- Percent of essential oil in syndet bar, because I added 2% in my recipe and 2 weeks after it doesn't smell anything. Frangance oil vs EO have different percent ????
I attach my recent batch and hope to see your review


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## cmzaha

yumyum1311 said:


> Hello! Does this topic still continue??? I made a few batch of shampoo syndet bar, quite good but I'm Vietnamese and the weather in Vietnam is so hot, usually about35- 40°C in summer. So, I have some questions:
> - Does someone try to make shampoo bar with all solid surfactant, replace liquid surfactant into powder surfactant??? In Vietnam, weather is too hot and I think add too much liquid can make bar "smush". But I don't see any recipe write about that
> - Percent of essential oil in syndet bar, because I added 2% in my recipe and 2 weeks after it doesn't smell anything. Frangance oil vs EO have different percent ????
> I attach my recent batch and hope to see your review


I have the same problem even in California US with most of the recipes on Swiftcraftymonkey getting to smushy and soft. I upped my hard butter, I use kokum or illipe, my hard emusifier etc. Anything to make them harder. LOL, I overdid last time and now they are a bit to hard but last forever! I do still use liquids but less than I was using. Sorry I cannot help you out on the percentages as I have 3 long pages of tweaks to get together in order to duplicate my final bars :headbanging:


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## DeeAnna

Ponte Vedra Soap Shoppe makes a syndet shampoo bar that is mixed up with only a small amount of liquid. The method seems more like how bath bombs are made. I have not tried this recipe, so I cannot vouch for how good it is, but PV is a reputable B&B maker from what I can tell.

Here's an SMF thread with photos and a link to the Ponte Vedra recipe: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=61716


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## yumyum1311

Thanks so much. I think I use same way with PV but I melt every thing, except EO, into sth like puree but thicker, wait cool, add EO and "glop" in mould. I used moon cake mould, which have a plate with pattern and use your arm to press it very hard. The result is quite good, like a little moon cake and I think it is harder and smoother than put in silicon mould and press by fingers. I 
I read some threads about fixed, like kaolin clay, to keep frangance longer, but they are for CP soap. Anyone try ???


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## soap1daze

My order for SLSA was cancelled and I forgot that when I started making a solid shampoo bar.  I used SCI as a replacement and my family loves the shampoo bar.  I need to learn how to press it to make it smoother for appearance but it works wonderfully!

Here is a youtube video out of Australia that might help.


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## neonstudy

My syndet bars do get smushy. I've tried adding stearic acid, tried adding sodium lactate. Still haven't found the perfect recipe yet. All of mine leave a bit of crunchiness or some sort of deposit on my hair that I don't like.

Most recent bar:
Total (g) 180 
(grams)
37.5% SCI 67.5g
20% CB 36g
25% SLSA 45g
3.5% Cetaryl Alcohol 6.3g
7% BTMS-50 12.6g
2% Stearic acid 3.6g
2% Coconut oil 3.6g
2% Fragrance 3.6g
1% panthenol 1.8g

Does anyone have any ideas for improvement?


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## Obsidian

This is a recipe I had shared with me, its pretty decent. It does get a bit soft but it doesn't leave a residue in my hair.

Heated powder ingredients- add colorant here if using, micas work great.
SCI 32%
cetyl alcohol 5%
BTMS25 7%
Incroquat CR 5%
Shea butter (any butter will work) 5%
SLSa 28%

Liquid heated ingredients (mix with powders)
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 6%
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 6%

Cool down phase
Silk amino acids 1%
Panthenol 1%
Dimethicone 1%
Cyclomethicone 1%
CTAC 1%
Preservative 1%
Fragrance 1-3%

melt heated phase at 30 second bursts in microwave. Make sure not to burn or overheat, it will puff up and come out of your bowl if you do. Will resemble applesauce when melted.
Cool down to the appropriate temps for your preservative. Add preservative and fragrance, mix well and quickly pour into molds.


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## Anne121x

JillGat said:


> Can someone post a syndet shampoo bar recipe here?  I went to SwiftMonkey's site and cannot seem to follow her directions.  She assumes some knowledge that I don't have and then I have to do a lot of searching on her site to find it.  Or she'll say something like, "you can use either U^%88755ZZX or increase the amount of [email protected]#$332 if you want." (I made up those ingredients, but that's what they look like to me).  How would I know what I want?  Anyway, I posted this question on another soapmaking forum and got chewed up and spit out for being too "lazy" to do more of my own research.
> 
> I've made conditioner using behentrimonium and cetyl alcohol (from lotioncrafter.com), so I'm not afraid of chemicals.
> 
> So anyway, I would love to see a straight-forward recipe for a syndet shampoo bar or a link to a site where I can find one.
> 
> Thanks!
> Jill


Thanks  for that Jill..it would be great to find a combination of surfactants that are mild enough to do the job. I am trying to make a shampoo bar using mild surfactants, herb powders and a little oil but not much luck so far.
Anne

Just read the other threads. Thanks all for sharing. I am using DSL powder, (disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate)   Aritha and shikaki powders, still experimenting as last one made my scalp itchy.


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## Relle

Anne, not sure if you are waiting for a reply from Jill, just letting you know that she hasn't been here in 4 months.


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## Anne121x

Relle said:


> Anne, not sure if you are waiting for a reply from Jill, just letting you know that she hasn't been here in 4 months.


Thanks Relle x


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## DeeAnna

Anne121x said:


> ...I am trying to make a shampoo bar using mild surfactants, herb powders and a little oil but not much luck so far....



What ingredients are binding the ingredients of your bar together and also reducing the solubility? The oil and powders aren't going to do that, so I'm a little puzzled. Most recipes use a thickener and an emulsifier to accomplish these goals.


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## Anne121x

DeeAnna said:


> What ingredients are binding the ingredients of your bar together and also reducing the solubility? The oil and powders aren't going to do that, so I'm a little puzzled. Most recipes use a thickener and an emulsifier to accomplish these goals.


Oh yes I used Stearic acid and BTMS25. I'm using powdered Disodium Lauryl  sulfosuccinate as the only surfacant.


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## DeeAnna

@Kates1117 -- we're talking about bars made with synthetic detergents. You're talking about using melt and pour soap with added fat and fragrance. The two don't really have a common ground.

A suggestion -- Why don't you start your own thread in the Melt and Pour forum and copy and paste your post above? 

Starting a new thread is easy -- go to the M&P forum https://www.soapmakingforum.com/forums/melt-pour-forum.38/ and look for Post New Thread button in the upper right area of the screen. Click on that and write your post. 

If you do this, more people will see it who are familiar with melt and pour soap -- you are likely to get better answers and more ideas that way.


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## Kates1117

Thanks DeeAnna!!!


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## Tinak

neonstudy said:


> My syndet bars do get smushy. I've tried adding stearic acid, tried adding sodium lactate. Still haven't found the perfect recipe yet. All of mine leave a bit of crunchiness or some sort of deposit on my hair that I don't like.
> 
> Most recent bar:
> Total (g) 180
> (grams)
> 37.5% SCI 67.5g
> 20% CB 36g
> 25% SLSA 45g
> 3.5% Cetaryl Alcohol 6.3g
> 7% BTMS-50 12.6g
> 2% Stearic acid 3.6g
> 2% Coconut oil 3.6g
> 2% Fragrance 3.6g
> 1% panthenol 1.8g
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas for improvement?


I have found in the few batches of syndent shampoo that I've made, that the SLSa leaves a dusty feel on my hair and I find the urge to wash it sooner than a bar without .... I've substituted SLS NOODLES for the SLSa ... increasing my SCI powder though and making up the difference with the noodles as the SLS noodles are a bit high in their Ph level .... my Ph level is now at 6.8 ....


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