# What the  @#%$ have I done 🤬😡



## Jennfromoz (Sep 24, 2021)

Ok, so I made my first batch.  It didn't turn out as I thought.  It got thick sooooo quickly, like lumpy mash potato.  It didn't pour at all. I'm sure I did everything to the recipe and I've watched soooo many videos on soap making. I was so careful and measured everything out. I'm really dissapointed. 
I don't think I'll use Lard again. It's gross. It smells horrible and it's awful to handle. 
It seems to be a constant with me making soap, it's always thick and slodgy and never ever pours. It happened when I tried grating up soap and remelting it too.  Why won't my soap pour!?!?
Rant over. I really would appreciate some advice. Thanks.


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## Jennfromoz (Sep 24, 2021)

Sorry forgot.  Here are the photos


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## Carly B (Sep 24, 2021)

If you want help or input, it's best to post your whole recipe---oils, lye, water.  Otherwise we won't be able to be as helpful as you'd like.


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## LynetteO (Sep 24, 2021)

@Jennfromoz  What was recipe? Additives used? My lard (20%) recipe was the opposite, lots of time to work with the batter. The only two times I’ve had what you’re describing was due to F/O & an E/O


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## Tara_H (Sep 24, 2021)

Was this a hot process recipe? That soap looks very 'cooked' to me.  If you want something that's easy to pour and fluid then HP is probably not the place to start.
There's also a lot going on in terms of colours there.  Far be it from me to tell anyone not to experiment, but it's generally recommended to try without colours (and fragrances) for your first attempt so that you get a feel for the basics without too much going on at once.
Oh and, have you tried lathering some up? (With gloved hands)
If it lathers then you've made soap! Even if it didn't turn out how you'd hoped, it's a start.

Edit: I just saw your thread on fragrances - you didn't put in a fragrance that's intended for wearing as a perfume, did you?


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## Megan (Sep 24, 2021)

It definitely looks too hot if it's gelling while you are molding it (unless it's HP like Tara said) 
Posting your recipe and method will be helpful. Lard is supposed to trace very slowly.


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## Jennfromoz (Sep 24, 2021)

Sorry, it was cold process and I used
240g coconut Oil 
440g olive oil 
320g Lard
141g lye
287g Demineralised Water


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## Megan (Sep 24, 2021)

No fragrance? Additives?


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## ResolvableOwl (Sep 24, 2021)

How warm were your lye and oils when you combined them?

How long did you stick-blend? What stage (emulsion, thin/thick trace) was your batter, when you decided to cast scoop it into the moulds?


The good news: (unless you detect zappy lye pocets) you might not like how it looks, but it is still fine, self-made soap!


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## dibbles (Sep 24, 2021)

Were your oils and lye solution hot when you combined them? How long did you mix with a stick blender? That soap looks like it is gelling in the bowl.


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## Jennfromoz (Sep 24, 2021)

Yes I did add some fragrant oil and colour including mica and liquid colour. It got thick before I added those. I wanted to do swirls but had to plop the coloured soap on the top and swirl with a knife.  I guess I'll see what it looks like in 4 weeks.

Maybe I did combine the lye and water, and the oils when the lye was still hot. Could that be it? I could have sworn I had a candy thermometer but couldn't find it and my soap was started so I guessed.

I did use a stick blender. Maybe I pulsed it too much.


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## dibbles (Sep 24, 2021)

It could have been any one/combination of the 3 - fragrance oil, too hot, too much stick blending. Over use of the stick blender is the main cause for acceleration with new soap makers. If you watch soap making videos, one thing to keep in mind is they are making much larger batches, which take longer to come to trace. For a two pound size batch (oil weight), my total stick blending time is (guessing here) less than 20 seconds, with the stick blender burst lasting 2-3 seconds. I usually blend to emulsion, not trace. 

If you melted your oils, mixed your lye solution and combined without waiting for the lye solution to cool that played a major role. If you don't have a thermometer, your oil and lye solution containers should feel just slightly warm when you touch your hands to the outside. I suspect this was the problem with your batch. I still usually take temps and don't combine my lye and oils until they are both under 100, and I prefer the temps to be lower than that.

It's hard to comment about the FO since you didn't say what you used, but some will cause your batter to heat/accelerate.


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## Zany_in_CO (Sep 24, 2021)

Tara_H said:


> it's generally recommended to try without colours (and fragrances) for your first attempt so that you get a feel for the basics without too much going on at once.


  So true!



Jennfromoz said:


> I'm sure I did everything to the recipe and I've watched soooo many videos on soap making. I was so careful and measured everything out. I'm really dissapointed.


That's your problem, me thinks... watching too many videos is gathering an overload of information, and possibly, garbage, into the process that makes it darn near impossible to produce any but garbage. Sorry, but that's JMHO (Just My Humble Opinion) based on my 17 years experience.


Jennfromoz said:


> Rant over. I really would appreciate some advice.


My advice is to forget all you think you've learned to date and start at square one. Go to the Beginners Forum and find *Beginner's Learn to Soap Online*. There you will find links to tried and true recipes to get the hang of it. Scroll down to

*LOVIN' SOAP COLD PROCESS SOAP MAKING GUIDE*

If you are serious about making soap, that's a good starting point to set a solid foundation to build upon.
HAPPY SOAPING!


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## kagey (Sep 24, 2021)

your soap did what's known as "seizing."
congratulations!
you now qualify to be in our exclusive Soap Seizing Club... I am acting President as my soaps do this more than I'd like to admit! 

this happens a lot when you first start out - and it's a natural part of your soaping journey... figuring out what does what and why. this is why it's important to take careful notes when soaping. there's a lot of chemistry AND math in this activity. and changing one thing can produce entirely different results.

I'd recommend reading up on this like this article:








						Define 'Seize' in Making Soap
					

Learn what "seize" is when making soap, how to guard against it and how to make the best of it if it happens to you.




					www.thesprucecrafts.com
				



or








						Soap Behaving Badly - Soap Queen
					

I started my soaping adventures when I was young (ah, sweet 16), and have learned that not everything turns out perfectly the first time. Sometimes despite your best efforts during a soaping session, you’ll get batches that just don’t quite turn out right. It’s just an inherent (and...




					www.soapqueen.com
				




you will still need to unmold your soaps and cut them.
and you don't have to wait 4 weeks to cut or use them.
I'd recommend unmolding them within 24 hours as they went into "gel phase" very quickly, so they'll be ready early.

the tops of your soaps will look bumpy, but if you packed the soap properly - the inside will look quite normal. if you didn't, the inside of your soap loaf will have air pockets. 
either way, you can use a knife to cut off the bumpiness - and no one will be the wiser that your soaps seized when being made.

I recommend doing the "zap test" (putting soap to your tongue) to check for unsaponified lye - and if your soap tastes like soap - then you can use it right away. (if not - allow them to sit and cure for a few more days before testing again)
Note: allowing it to "cure" for 4-6 weeks produces a harder bar of soap -- but you don't have to wait that long to test it or use it.

there are a lot of subtleties that aren't expressed in the fancy-pour videos, so I'd recommend watching the basic ones first to understand how a soap forms and behaves.
the Soap Guild on You Tube has a lot of basic videos that walk you through the important and often neglected steps of producing a good soap.

welcome to soaping.


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## Cat&Oak (Sep 24, 2021)

@Zany_in_CO 

"That's your problem, me thinks... watching too many videos is gathering an overload of information, and possibly, garbage, into the process that makes it darn near impossible to produce any but garbage."

I'm curious as to why you would think gathering information by watching YouTube soapers is "garbage "? YouTube soapers go out of their way to explain every detail of the process carefully. The results unless specifically filmed for educational purposes of seized soap are hardly "garbage" in fact many of these YouTubers make a living by being professional soap makers. I found that a bit offensive since I also enjoy making videos on YouTube and try to make them entertaining as well as educational.

OP it sounds like your lye solution and oils were too hot. Also if you don't use soap safe fragrance it can seize your batch in an instant. This is why we encourage no coloring or fragrance until you get your soap legs.


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## lenarenee (Sep 24, 2021)

Wait!  Don't do the zap test by directly touching a piece of soap to your tongue....that's not how its done. Deanna has instructions on her site My Classic bells. I have poor cell signal here, so I'll post it later unless someone does it first.


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## dibbles (Sep 24, 2021)

kagey said:


> I recommend doing the "zap test" (putting soap to your tongue) to check for unsaponified lye - and if your soap tastes like soap - then you can use it right away. (if not - allow them to sit and cure for a few more days before testing again)
> Note: allowing it to "cure" for 4-6 weeks produces a harder bar of soap -- but you don't have to wait that long to test it or use it.


I would also recommend doing a zap test, but read *this *on how to properly test your soap for zap. No need to put your tongue directly on your soap. Additionally, you can safely test your soap if there is no zap, but it is really best to wait for it to cure (at least 4 weeks) to use it. It will become more mild and lather better with a cure, and you won't have a true idea of what the soap will be like in use after it has cured.


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## jcandleattic (Sep 24, 2021)

Cat&Oak said:


> I'm curious as to why you would think gathering information by watching YouTube soapers is "garbage "? YouTube soapers go out of their way to explain every detail of the process carefully. The results unless specifically filmed for educational purposes of seized soap are hardly "garbage" in fact many of these YouTubers make a living by being professional soap makers. I found that a bit offensive since I also enjoy making videos on YouTube and try to make them entertaining as well as educational.


I'm glad you have had good luck in your experience, and put out good videos, but it has been my experience, that this is NOT true. For every good, educational and accurate YouTube video on soapmaking you can find at least 3-4 that just give out really BAD advice, or no advice at all, and just show them making soap. As a newbie there is really no way to differentiate them until you actually know what you are doing.


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## Zany_in_CO (Sep 24, 2021)

Cat&Oak said:


> I'm curious as to why you would think gathering information by watching YouTube soapers is "garbage "?


LOL Please don't be offended. That's not what I said! I don't think watching YouTube videos is garbage. Not at all. To clarify, watching an overload of videos, and NOT having the basic knowledge of soapmaking that you and I have, can result in picking up bad info, aka "garbage". Which is exactly what's missing in the OP's first attempt at making soap, i.e., basic knowledge of how to go about it, IMHO and IME. (In My Humble Opinion and In My Experience.)

SHORT STORY
I made my first soap in 2003 at age 60. YouTube wasn't even around then. I read a lot. I borrowed all the books on soap making available from my local library -- about 24 in all. I bought a few of them that are still on my reference shelf today.

We had access to the Internet back then but there was very little info available -- nowhere near what it is like now. Walton Feed had a fun section on how soap was made in the olden days and the Cole Brothers had pictures of soap being made in a blender. Interesting, to say the least.

There were few forums and yahoo groups back then. I joined the Handcrafted Soap Making forum in 2004.  I spent time at the amazing Australian *"Soap Naturally"* group that eventually produced what is arguably the best book on making natural handmade soap to date. I was invited to join Soapmakers Asylum and Southern Soapers Yahoo group. All had wonderful, knowledgeable, generous people who added greatly to my education. I am forever grateful to them. Paying it forward by helping others is my way of honoring them.


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## Cat&Oak (Sep 24, 2021)

jcandleattic said:


> As a newbie there is really no way to differentiate them until you actually know what you are doing.



Youtube promotes the highest viewing most successful videos first so if you are viewing the dregs of soapmakers I don't know what to tell you. I watch Youtube soapers every single day and admire them so much and aspire to be like them. Yes there are bad soapers on Youtube I'm not denying that but I don't agree with you that they make up a majority of the videos.

List of soapmakers on Youtube I personally subscribe too:

A Misty Dimness Soap
Cathy Sagun D'Clumsy Soaper
Dean Wilson
EdensSecret1
Royalty Soaps
Ellen Ruth Soap
Elly's Everyday Soap Making
Etsuko Watanabe
EvesGardenSoaps
From Grace to you
Handmade in Florida
Heart's Content Farmhouse
Holly's Soapmaking Kapia Mera
I Dream in Soap
Ladybug Lane Soaps
Luna Fae Creations
Missouri River Soap
Moonlit Soapworks
Offender Soap
Oh My Cattle Soap Yvonne
Ophelia's Soapery
Royal Apple Berry
Soaping 101
Sunshine Soap and Candle Company
Tellervo
Tiggy Makes Soap
Tree Marie Soapworks
Vibrant Soap
Yellow Cottage Soapery

Now these channels are for businesses mainly so it isn't their job to educate you on every aspect of soaping, that's up to you to educate yourself.

I take issue with implying the majority of Youtube Soap makers are not helpful or educational enough or bad.

That simple isn't true in my experience.

@Zany_in_CO  I appreciate the clarity. It may not be how you meant it to come across it was how I perceived it.


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## Johnez (Sep 24, 2021)

Cat&Oak said:


> @Zany_in_CO
> 
> "That's your problem, me thinks... watching too many videos is gathering an overload of information, and possibly, garbage, into the process that makes it darn near impossible to produce any but garbage."
> 
> ...



I think Zany's point is that gathering too much info leads to using techniques and ingredients from multiple methods. The problem is that while each recipe or technique might be awesome when perfectly executed, one might get a surprise when throwing it all together as they are often incompatible. Best to start with one tried and true recipe and method, from beginning to end and not mix and match.


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## Zany_in_CO (Sep 24, 2021)

Cat&Oak said:


> Now these channels are for businesses mainly so *it isn't their job to educate you* on every aspect of soaping, that's *up to you to educate yourself*.


You just made my point for me.   I couldn't agree more. 

To that end, for a video "education", go to the following YouTube channels:

Bramble Berry's Anne Marie Faiola's *Soap Queen TV* channel
*Soap Queen Blog*
*Teach Soap*

SMF member, Cathy McGinness's *Soaping 101* cnannel


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## jcandleattic (Sep 24, 2021)

Cat&Oak said:


> That simple isn't true in my experience.


And like I said, I'm glad you have had this experience. 

On that list you provided there are at least 3 that I know of that give out or imply erroneous information - however, most of them are solid knowledgeable makers.


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## kagey (Sep 24, 2021)

lenarenee said:


> Wait!  Don't do the zap test by directly touching a piece of soap to your tongue....that's not how its done. Deanna has instructions on her site My Classic bells. I have poor cell signal here, so I'll post it later unless someone does it first.


whether you're wetting your finger and rubbing it on your soap...





						Zap test | Soapy Stuff
					

Classic Bells restores antique sleigh bells and manufactures bell home decor. Wholesale. Retail.




					classicbells.com
				



or your applying it directly to to your tongue





						Troubleshooting Lye Heavy Soap | BrambleBerry
					

Recipe miscalculations can cause cold process soap to be lye heavy. Learn how to test your bars in this article.




					www.brambleberry.com
				




the zap test requires soap molecules to get in your mouth.
six of one - a half dozen of the other... whatever

just don't put the whole thing in your mouth for a long time.
we all know how that can turn out:


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## Obsidian (Sep 24, 2021)

You said the lard smelled bad, I'm going to guess you probably heated your oils way too much. Lard can smell very piggy if overheated. 
Oil just need to be warm enough that they are clear. 

Start simple, no colors, no additives, no scent.


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## cmzaha (Sep 24, 2021)

Lard does not accelerate trace in fact it actually slows trace. Overheating lard will cause it to smell bad or at least some lard will but the smell will usually go away after cure. It is a wonderful oil to use and mixed with OO or another High Oleic Oil such as HO Canola will lend to a slow tracing batter. My all time favorite recipe is a tallow/lard recipe.


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## KiwiMoose (Sep 24, 2021)

My money is on soaping too hot and overuse of the stick blender.


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## lenarenee (Sep 24, 2021)

kagey said:


> whether you're wetting your finger and rubbing it on your soap...
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Definitely not 6 of one and half a dozen of another. She's brand new to soap making. The way the post was worded could have been interpreted as literally licking a bar of soap.  People have been injured enough to need medical attention after doing just that.  The way Deanna's website instructs it, is how Kevin Dunn teaches. (A college soap chemistry teacher who's instructed students for years)

Thereby, I find Brambleberry's method of testing for zap irresponsible. A truly lye heavy soap on the delicate mucous membrane of your tongue is harmful.  Although the movie clip is much appreciated; haven't seen that movie in years and will put it on our list this year!


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## Cat&Oak (Sep 24, 2021)

jcandleattic said:


> And like I said, I'm glad you have had this experience.
> 
> On that list you provided there are at least 3 that I know of that give out or imply erroneous information - however, most of them are solid knowledgeable makers.


I respect that. We are all human and none of us knows every single thing about soap making so of course there will be inaccuracies and errors. I apologize for being snarky  towards you.


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## earlene (Sep 24, 2021)

Now that you have a clue as to why this happened, I have one other recommendation (well, more than one.)

Learn to make soap WITHOUT the perfume (re: your other thread).  If you don't have any soap-appropriate fragrances, make soap without ANY added fragrance.  Sure in the other thread, I did say if you want to try them, to try them, but I should have first said, 'learn to make soap first' before experimenting with adding non-soap appropriate ingredients.

Even if you don't find your candy thermometer, you don't need a thermometer to know if the lye solution is cool enough.  As long as you make your lye solution ahead of time (a couple of hours is good) and let it cool (covered) to room temperature or to a temp that feels comfortable to the touch (wearing gloves & touching the OUTER SURFACE of the vessel), it should be fine, as long as it feels somewhat close in temperature to your room temperature oils.

When melting your oils, don't use too much heat.  If using a stove top, use a very low setting and remove from the heat as soon as the oils are almost completely melted (the melting will continue after you remove it from the heat, as the oils holds the heat).  If using a microwave, use VERY SHORT bursts of time in the oven, like 15 seconds at a time; remove it and check it; start again; check again.  You do not have to melt completely in the microwave oven either; almost completely melted is fine.  Stirring partially melted oils, especially the very softish hard oils like CO and lard, they will finish melting by simply stirring the already warm oils.

Try to hand-stir WITHOUT turning on the stick blender a lot more than with the SBer running.  New soapmakers have a  tendency to over-use the stick blender and turn soap to mush before they know it.  If you think it's not enough, it probably is already too much stick blending, so RESIST the urge to give it one more pulse.  Incidentally a pulse is like 1 or 2 seconds.

So back to temperatures:  wear gloves.  Touch the outside of the vessels and compare how warm they feel.  If the oils are clear (see through to the bottom of the vessel) and the vessel feels comfortably warmish to the palms of your hands, but NOT hot, it's good.  If you the lye solution feels close in touch temperature, then you should be good to mix them together.  Do this slowly and carefully, limiting your impulse to pulse the SBer again & again.  A couple of times, 3 at the most, and you should do the rest of it stirring by hand.  In fact, if you can't resist the urge to squeeze the button, just put the SB aside and use a spoon for awhile.  Look for light trace by lifting the spoon out and dribble soap batter on top.  If the batter leaves a trace or line along your dribble line at first, you are at trace.  It may smooth back out and that's fine.  Trace speeds up with more heat.  Stick Blending accelerates the chemical reaction that creates heat.  So unless you want Ploppy soap, just stir without stick blending.

This is a good time to separate the soap out for adding colorants.  Hand stir in the colorants also.  You may want to SB the colorants, but if you do remember 1 or 2 seconds at the very most, then hand stir.  Some colorants make the batter thicker, so take notice if one of them does, and get ready to pour your soap sooner.  (Titanium dioxide does, and I have noticed some greens do as well, but the ones I have that thicken soap also have TD in the ingredient listing for those greens.)

You mentioned some liquid colorants.  Where did you get those?  Are they the kind from a craft store that sells only Melt & Pour soap?  If so, then they are likely only for MP, even though it never seems to say that on the package, and will probably fade in soap (I've done it myself when new.)  If they are food coloring, same thing, some will stick in CP & HP soap, but fade and some just totally disappears.  Some stains your fingers, though, so we advise against food coloring in soap.


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## kagey (Sep 24, 2021)

lenarenee said:


> People have been injured enough to need medical attention after doing just that


yeah, I call BS on that.
a quick Google of news stories where multiple persons licking a young soap required medical attention was never found.

you would have to put raw lye on your tongue and leave it there for a while... Fight Club style... for "medical attention" to be needed. 

Sounds like a gross exaggeration to me...


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## cmzaha (Sep 24, 2021)

kagey said:


> yeah, I call BS on that.
> a quick Google of news stories where multiple persons licking a young soap required medical attention was never found.
> 
> you would have to put raw lye on your tongue and leave it there for a while... Fight Club style... for "medical attention" to be needed.
> ...



You may call that BS but do you know that for sure. A lye heavy soap can very well have raw lye which you could get on your tongue. I for one would not risk it, I always use my finger. I have had some very lye heavy soaps, while done on purpose, I guarantee I would not test them with my tongue...


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## Becky1024 (Sep 25, 2021)

You are not alone! My first batch was a disaster too, but it turned out to be an awesome soap once it cured and I was hooked. You have lots of good advice on this thread, so use it and go make more!


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## earlene (Sep 25, 2021)

I personally burned my tongue licking a bar of soap with a crystallized lye rock.  It took weeks until my tongue felt normal again.  

Not to scare you, but to remind you to be very aware of the cautions required while handling lye AND raw soap, please read these links:






						Lye burn and the aftermath...
					

First off... Happy New Year!  Due to this stupid hand, I've been unable to soap for quite some time, and it made me fairly depressed to see everyone's lovely work, so I haven't been on much lately. At some point, apparently I had a small tear in one of my gloves in between my pinky and ring...




					www.soapmakingforum.com
				








						My LYE Accident  - What was yours
					

Just to remind everyone old and new. Sometimes, we can get lazy at safety protection. DON"T And Even when being careful, accidents happen. So, always be prepared.  Everyone has their own story. Here is mine... Share yours. ---------------------------------------------------------  Made different...




					www.soapmakingforum.com
				








						How To Properly/Safely Conduct The Zap/Tongue Test
					

For reference, the following list of instructions on how to properly conduct the zap/tongue test is a paraphrase of the procedure as taught by Dr. Kevin Dunn in his highly esteemed book, 'Scientific Soapmaking' (on page 75):   1) Take a gloved finger and wet it.    2) Rub the wet finger over the...




					www.soapmakingforum.com
				








						My LYE Accident  - What was yours
					

Just to remind everyone old and new. Sometimes, we can get lazy at safety protection. DON"T And Even when being careful, accidents happen. So, always be prepared.  Everyone has their own story. Here is mine... Share yours. ---------------------------------------------------------  Made different...




					www.soapmakingforum.com
				








						Lye first aid | Soapy Stuff
					

Classic Bells restores antique sleigh bells and manufactures bell home decor. Wholesale. Retail.




					classicbells.com
				








						Zap test | Soapy Stuff
					

Classic Bells restores antique sleigh bells and manufactures bell home decor. Wholesale. Retail.




					classicbells.com
				








						What is this Failure called?
					

I am new to soap making, I have made a whopping 5 CP soap recipes so far and I am just trying different recipes and mostly making my own with what oils I have and a SoapCalculator. I have no idea, really, what I am doing, or what things can go wrong, like volcanoes, ricing etc. that I just read...




					www.soapmakingforum.com
				








						Eye Protection -
					

Why do some soapers feel that it is okay to go without this necessity? That is one thing I will never understand in this industry. Maybe it's just me, but my eyes are VERY important to me and when I see youtube soaping videos with practiced, professional soapers showing a how-to soapmaking video...




					www.soapmakingforum.com
				




And those are just a few.  There are many posts here at SMF where people have reported on their own personal lye injuries and lye accidents, so lye safety is very important.  We share our experiences because we want to help others to avoid the same kinds of accidents, mistakes, injuries, etc.


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## Lin19687 (Sep 25, 2021)

Jennfromoz said:


> Ok, so I made my first batch.  It didn't turn out as I thought.  It got thick sooooo quickly, like lumpy mash potato.  It didn't pour at all. I'm sure I did everything to the recipe and I've watched soooo many videos on soap making. I was so careful and measured everything out. I'm really dissapointed.
> I don't think I'll use Lard again. It's gross. It smells horrible and it's awful to handle.
> It seems to be a constant with me making soap, it's always thick and slodgy and never ever pours. It happened when I tried grating up soap and remelting it too.  Why won't my soap pour!?!?
> Rant over. I really would appreciate some advice. Thanks.



I read this whole thread but I don't see where you got a book and studied, just YT vids.
I would stop and go get some books from the library and read up on things... also online too but stay away from the vids.  So many have bad info and really you should read about how to make it, then watch a vid from a rep soapmaker and then try it out.  Without scents or anything fancy.  Many just start with simple oils you can get at the grocery.  Shoot, mine was Crisco and I learned a bunch plus I liked it- it was Palm oil back then.


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## earlene (Sep 25, 2021)

I agree with @Lin19687 about reading soapmaking books.  I borrowed every soapmaking book my local library carries (not very many actually) and then some from other libraries around the state, via lending program now available via intrastate library lending practices (I think most, or at least many libraries in the US do this now.)

I absolutlely recommend borrowing before purchasing soap making books, because once you read some of them, you'll decide which ones you would really prefer to own.  Some that I borrowed were very good, while others were only mediocre or less-than mediocre, IMO.  I have purchased a few books since then, and am still looking for one that my library carries, but is out of print.  Maybe someday I'll run across that one, but so far, no luck.


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## Zing (Sep 25, 2021)

Hang in there, @Jennfromoz !  You'll get the hang of it soon.  Good luck.


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## Susie (Sep 25, 2021)

I am going to have to respectfully disagree on using books to learn soapmaking. Many libraries' soapmaking book list is both extremely small and extremely old.  We've learned so much more now than is reflected in some of those books. Don't get me wrong, not all books are outdated, but newbies tend to follow recipes in books without running them through a lye calculator first. Don't do that. Run ALL recipes through a good lye calculator no matter where you find them. There are several calculators that are awesome. Pick one and use it every time before making a recipe. 

Newbies also tend to over stickblend. It is one of the triad of most common causes of plop and pray. The others are soaping too hot and using scents that are known seizers. If you used a non-soap safe fragrance, that's a certain cause of seizing. 

Remember that all of us have been where you are. No one is born knowing how to make soap. I have personally done everything you can do to ruin a batch of soap. And I am still here. I just learned better.


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## Professor Bernardo (Sep 25, 2021)

I was going to add my two cents here... but sometimes silence is the better part of discretion.
There are some excellent pieces of advice from very experienced soap makers here, heed their advice and take baby steps.


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## Lin19687 (Sep 25, 2021)

Susie said:


> I am going to have to respectfully disagree on using books to learn soapmaking. Many libraries' soapmaking book list is both extremely small and extremely old.


And I will disagree on that....... My tiny town Library has 4 soap books... 2 don't count but one is,
Pure soapmaking : how to create nourishing, natural skin care soaps by: Anne-Marie Faiola =2016 
FAR from outdated and IMO a good book.  The other one I have not read so I can't say but it too was in 2016.
Now it also depends on where you live, Metro, rural...But either way, reading through any of them will give you a better idea then watching some schmucky 'soapmaker' on YT that doesn't know what she's doing.

I tell anyone wanting to do soap....... READ for 3 months and I mean READ !  Books first, then online info on how to THEN come on a forum and read some more.  Once you have done 1&2 you will start to understand what is going on in a forum. It irks me to no end when people ask questions that clearly has been answered 100000 times before.  If they had studied first then searched, they would have understood.  And this is the main reason I don't post often here anymore.
btw..... soap is a wash off product......it's not there to moisturize.  If you can't understand that statement then you have a lot more studying to do


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## Zany_in_CO (Sep 25, 2021)

Susie said:


> I am going to have to respectfully disagree on using books to learn soapmaking. Many libraries' soapmaking book list is both extremely small and extremely old. We've learned so much more now than is reflected in some of those books.


Duly noted and you make a good case. I agree in part... there are problems with some of the recipes and old school techniques. However, much of the content is still valuable today and worth the price if you can find them.
Here are my recommendations for good reads that are on my reference shelf:

*Best Books & Reference Materials for CP Soap*

Susan Miller Cavitch's recipes have 10% SF and GSE (Grapefruit Seed Extract) for its antioxidant benefit. Both of those are no longer recommended. GSE is not only hard to find but expensive as well and has been proven to be ineffective for preventing rancidity. However, the bulk of the content is solid and well worth adding to a soaper's reference library.

_Soap Naturally_ by Patricia Garzena and Marina Tadiello is the best all around reference for soap making to date and covers other bath & body products as well.

_Making Soap and Scents_ by Catherine Bardey was the first book I bought when I found it in the bargain bin at Barnes & Noble. It's a small book. Has few soap recipes, but the rest of the info is well organized and relevant today. I used her recipe and technique to successfully make transparent soap -- one of the first soaps I ever made. Luv it!

_Making Liquid Soaps_ by Catherine Failor  has a wealth of science-based information on the subject although her technique is passé and the content is confusing and poorly organized. I still refer to it for troubleshooting batches that have gone awry.

_Handcrafted Soap_ by Delores Boone - Although the recipes are wonky due to  proof reading errors, the beautiful pictures are outstanding for displaying the equipment we use, how to use it and lovely  soaps to inspire you. The charts and glossary are a quick and easy reference to calculating lye & water by hand; the properties of various oils, fats & butters; and an extensive  list of essential oils -- featuring "Characteristics", "Perfume Notes" and "Blends Well With".

The best thing about books is, to my mind at least, if you're off-grid or do not have access to the internet for any reason, you can still learn to make soap -- all by yourself -- and enjoy it the fruits of your labors.
​


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## Professor Bernardo (Sep 25, 2021)

Lin19687 said:


> But either way, reading through any of them will give you a better idea then watching some schmucky 'soapmaker' on YT that doesn't know what she's doing.
> 
> btw..... soap is a wash off product......it's not there to moisturize.  If you can't understand that statement then you have a lot more studying to do


@Lin19687  I couldn't have said it better.  IF this beginner who started this thread watches anyone on YT at all, it should be Uncle John; he's pragmatic, down to earth, tongue in cheek.  I truly know what you mean by the "schmucky 'soapmaker'" though. 

Your comment about soap's function is spot on!  KUDOS to you! Reminds me of people who put activated charcoal in soap expecting it to detoxify the skin but since the contact is so short it just marketing hype on the makers part and gullibility on the end user's part. 

My rule in making soap is the classic acronym (since this forum LOVES to use acronyms)  K.I.S.S. = Keeping It Simply Soap
No frou frou, no imitation cupcake soap, no imitation meat loaf soap, no soap with sparkles, etc., and so on, so forth.

Simple ingredients skillfully blended, simple fragrances, simple kaolin clay, simple titanium dioxide.  Simply aged and then SIMPLY SOLD!  Whoop!


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## Jennfromoz (Sep 25, 2021)

I really appreciate the great advice I'm getting. Thanks everyone. 
I've come to the conclusion that my soap seized because 1. The lye and/or oils were too hot when I mixed them together and 2. I used the stick blender too much.
I'm sure it's not the fragrance or colours because it seized before I added them.
I've been advised to start making soap without colour or fragrance, but, ummmm, I don't think I'm capable of that. I LOVE pretty colours and beautiful smells, and I'm busting to be creative.  I want to add art to my science straight away. If you knew me you would understand lolol.
Thanks again everyone. I have started another thread with the results, and they're not too bad.


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## lenarenee (Sep 25, 2021)

kagey said:


> yeah, I call BS on that.
> a quick Google of news stories where multiple persons licking a young soap required medical attention was never found.
> 
> you would have to put raw lye on your tongue and leave it there for a while... Fight Club style... for "medical attention" to be needed.
> ...



That's hardly something that's  newsworthy enough to warrant state or local new coverage....something that would show up on Google search.  The 2 alarm fire that broke out last month 1/4 mile from my house doesn't show up on Google either, despite the exploding alcohol bottles. 

Have you seen a lye heavy soap?  They can have pockets of completely unsaponified lye, even lye crystals. The skin on a tongue is very delicate and lye rips right through it. FB is full of people who tell others to do the zap test by touching tongue to the bar, or even to lick the soap and newbies fall for it and report back on their ER trips and wonder what the heck happened. 

Then there's the tales from my professional soap making friends who have brick and mortar stores and give soap making lessons on a regular basis.  Yes, people really do stick their tongue on a bar of soap with lye pockets. Funny thing is - they put gloves on first.


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## Rsapienza (Sep 26, 2021)

Cat&Oak said:


> Youtube promotes the highest viewing most successful videos first so if you are viewing the dregs of soapmakers I don't know what to tell you. I watch Youtube soapers every single day and admire them so much and aspire to be like them. Yes there are bad soapers on Youtube I'm not denying that but I don't agree with you that they make up a majority of the videos.
> 
> List of soapmakers on Youtube I personally subscribe too:
> 
> ...


Without calling out a specific soaper, there are a few on your list that I have seen give out bad information. Some are wonderful, but I have to say I agree with Zany that for every good one, there are 3 bad. Some of these soapers even offer e-books and such providing false info. Most of the soapers on your list give more advice on technique, IMO….and that’s great. They are skilled in their craft.

As far as it not being their job to educate….technically, you are correct; however many viewers look up these types of videos to be instructed and think if these people are making videos and are “YouTube famous”, they must know what they’re talking about and be professionals. Sort of like famous young  people being looked at as role models to our youth, even though they do not want to be anyone’s role model, they are still seen that way.



Jennfromoz said:


> Ok, so I made my first batch.





Jennfromoz said:


> It seems to be a constant with me making soap, it's always thick and slodgy and never ever pours.


This is a little confusing to me. You say you made your first batch, but then state that this behavior is a constant with you. Is this your first soap or no?


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## Tara_H (Sep 26, 2021)

Rsapienza said:


> This is a little confusing to me. You say you made your first batch, but then state that this behavior is a constant with you. Is this your first soap or no?


I believe the previous 'soapmaking' was grating up hotel soap bars and adding water.


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## Lin19687 (Sep 26, 2021)

Jennfromoz said:


> I've been advised to start making soap without colour or fragrance, but, ummmm, I don't think I'm capable of that. I LOVE pretty colours and beautiful smells, and I'm busting to be creative. I want to add art to my science straight away. If you knew me you would understand lolol.


If this is your mind set then you are not going to make 'good soap'  which should be your Main Goal.  You are cutting corners and we have seen many come/go that do this.   Just like the ones that have made soap for 3 months and then want to sell it .  It makes us all look bad because they sell crappy soap so people never want to buy any soap.

Again, get a simple recipe, perfect your making and then go from there.  Or just stick to Melt/Pour, then you can add your FO/color all you want............ but again you need to know how much and use the correct fo/color......... Again, this goes back to LEARNING.
K I'm done, I'll go back to not coming into the beginners forum because I can't stand it when people TALK but don't want to HEAR


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## Zany_in_CO (Sep 26, 2021)

Lin19687 said:


> Just like the ones that have made soap for 3 months and then want to sell it .


I agree but have to mention an exception. I know one SMF member who was a total newbie when she joined SMF in 2018. She made 60 batches in 4 months, learning and tweaking along the way. At the end of the 4 months she was more than ready to sell. 

Over the years, I've seen very few soapers dedicate themselves in that manner but when they do, they are indeed ready to sell at that 4 month mark. 

Not to be mean, but just make an observation, I agree -- @Jennfromoz is not likely to be one of those people. But then, ya nevah know. Time will tell.


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## Lin19687 (Sep 26, 2021)

Zany_in_CO said:


> I agree but have to mention an exception. I know one SMF member who was a total newbie when she joined SMF in 2018. She made 60 batches in 4 months, learning and tweaking along the way. At the end of the 4 months she was more than ready to sell.


I disagree.... they have no idea how their soap will act after that 4 months... actually if they tweaked it from being new then I would have to speculate that their final soap recipe would only be 1 month old at that 4 month mark. So that would be 3 months learning, still good START but..  How could they possibly know how it would be in 4m, 6, 1 yr from it being made ?  So to 'Learn in 4 months' yes, to SELL in 4 months Absolutely not !
So while I applaud that persons dedication to learning, there is still a year in wait to see how that 'final' recipe will work... not to mention the FO/color they use and how it will hold up.  Making soap for personal use fine.  But if you are going to sell it you darn well better know how that Scent will last, color morph, DOS, skin testing..... I don't need to go on with that.  Even now I test EVERY BATCH with the end cuts before it is sold.  WHY ??  Because I'm responsible, professional, honest and the last thing I ever want to do is have someone have an issue from a FO, colorant etc. 
Have I ever sold a soap that I thought would be ok for most but not for someone with sensitve skin like mine...... Nope and I have a 2'x2'x2'tall box of full batches and end cuts to prove it.


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## Zany_in_CO (Sep 26, 2021)

Lin19687 said:


> So to 'Learn in 4 months' yes, to SELL in 4 months Absolutely not !


Did I mention they had excellent teachers/mentors? Makes all the difference in the world.   Of course, I wasn't talking about every Newbie that comes down the pike. Very few "get it" from the get go. But those that do, they are up and running at that 4th month mark.

Case in point -- me.  Every year, for the first 4 years of making soap, I sold my surplus soaps at my annual garage sale. Since I used the soaps I made on myself, my family, my fellow Colorado soapers, & friends, etc., I had no qualms about whether they would be good for others. I made enough money ($350 - $500) to pay for supplies for the next year. I'm not bragging; I'm just saying, it's possible. And thus began the vicious cycle. LOL But that's just me. Not everyone can be that fortunate.


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## Arimara (Sep 26, 2021)

Jennfromoz said:


> I really appreciate the great advice I'm getting. Thanks everyone.
> I've come to the conclusion that my soap seized because 1. The lye and/or oils were too hot when I mixed them together and 2. I used the stick blender too much.
> I'm sure it's not the fragrance or colours because it seized before I added them.
> I've been advised to start making soap without colour or fragrance, but, ummmm, I don't think I'm capable of that. I LOVE pretty colours and beautiful smells, and I'm busting to be creative.  I want to add art to my science straight away. If you knew me you would understand lolol.
> Thanks again everyone. I have started another thread with the results, and they're not too bad.


Where did you get your colors and fragrances? was it an online supplier or a craft store/amazon?


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## Jennfromoz (Sep 28, 2021)

Ok, I get it. I know I have alot to learn and don't intend to start selling for at least 6 months to a year. In the meantime I'll be testing the soap myself and giving it away as gifts. I am about to make a small batch with the same recipe I used with no fragrance or colours, and use it as facial soap. Apparently soap made with Lard is very good for the skin. I'll also correct my previous errors and wait for the lye to cool down more and not pulse as much. 
I will continue to ask questions here. I have gotten alot of valuable advice. 
Time will only tell if I end up making excellent soap or not. No one knows the future, but I know if I am determined to do something well and stick to it, I am likely to achieve my goals.


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## MrsZ (Sep 28, 2021)

Jennfromoz said:


> No one knows the future, but I know if I am determined to do something well and stick to it, I am likely to achieve my goals.


This is so true. You've already put your mind to it, and are willing to ask questions and learn. Keep learning and trying, (and fight the desire to try too much at once, we've all been there) and I bet your next soap will be great.


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## Professor Bernardo (Sep 28, 2021)

"I'll also correct my previous errors and wait for the lye to cool down more and not pulse as much."

Once your oils are melted, let them cool to about 110° F and the same for your lye solution.  Slowly pour the lye solution into the oils and stir with a whisk or French whip.  THEN move on to using the stick blender.  Blend for 20 seconds or so, then stir with the blender, blend again and so on.
Once the mixture reaches the consistency of a medium thick gravy or so, then pour into the mold.  Set aside, cover in towels or old blanket to insulate.  Check it in an hour or so, watch it, the mixture will be quite warm or even hot!  Next day... soap!  Cut and let air dry / cure for a minimum of 4 weeks.


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