# Bar Mold Vs Loaf Tell me your Pros and Cons. Help me Decide on A Bar Mold



## zolveria (May 6, 2015)

So I have been debating wether to purchase a bar mold  like Bramble or stay with my loafs  I was also thinking of cutom making my molds with my own design. 

My favorite IS the OVAL mold. Just love it.
Never really like Loafs.  
Love the Bar look but need to find out if the Edge are nice and clean.


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## shunt2011 (May 6, 2015)

I prefer my loaf molds. My husband made my molds and I line them with the BB silicone liners.  I love the look of a nicely beveled bar of soap.   I use a slab with dividers salt bars.


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## dixiedragon (May 6, 2015)

I think you will eventually have some of both. There are things you can do with a loaf mold that you can't with an individual mold, and vice versa. I would recommend the BB 10-inch log, the BB silicone cylinder and on of the BB individual silicone molds.


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## Seawolfe (May 6, 2015)

I like both, they both have their uses.


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## shunt2011 (May 6, 2015)

I love the BB silicone cylinder.  I have two that I make my shave soap refills in.


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## SoapSap (May 6, 2015)

I the past year or so I have collected both wood and silicone loaf molds in different sizes, as well as several individual silicone bar molds. I like them all. I think if you are wanting to do designs you definitely want loaf and/or slab molds. Individual bar molds, for me work best when I am not doing multi- colors or designs. It is really good to have both.


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## not_ally (May 6, 2015)

I am with everyone else, it is good to have some of both/all.  I use bar molds for mp and (silicone ones b/c of the lye) for cp salt bars because they are harder to unmold in logs.  For regular cp I use log molds, best for swirling and I just like the look/feel/discovery in cutting process, generally silicone ones b/c I hate to line.  In an ideal world where I could make my own wooden molds without cutting off digits, I would have Shunt's molds, where I could buy some good silicone liners and then I (or a handy DH) could make wooden frames to fit them.  

If you are looking for a good, inexpensive tall/skinny silicone loaf mold, I like the WSP one, very good value for the money.

ETA:  I really like the Brambleberry individual rounds/squares/rectangle silicone molds for making bars, you can use them for mp or cp, they are good and sturdy (although you do have to put them on a baking dish/cutting board or something sturdy if you are going to move them b/c they are a bit floppy) and not too expensive.


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## IrishLass (May 6, 2015)

I agree with everyone else. It's very good to have a variety of molds in your soapy repertoire for different reasons. I have a handy stash of different kinds of molds in my repertoire, all the way from wood slab and log molds to indy-type molds to column molds, to silicone molds, etc..

Having said that, though, if you want to kill 2 birds with one stone as the old saying goes, my favorite mold to use is my collapsible dual slab/log mold that was made by a former member here back in 2006. It provides me with the best of both worlds- I can either use it in slab mode or I can use it in log mode, depending of what kind of swirls I'm attempting. And I can make large 4 lb. batches with it, or small 1 lb. sample batches in it. It's truly an ingenious design, and it takes well to whatever liner (cut to fit) I feel like using at whatever moment. Alas, the member that made it for me is no longer in business and hasn't been heard from in years, but for what it's worth, a mold using the same kind of dual slab/log design is sold here (I have one of them as a spare and it is well-made):*https://diannassundries.com/product/wood-soap-mold/**. *Or if you have a crafty woodworker in your circle of family/friends, maybe they could attempt to make such a one for you.



IrishLass


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## DeeAnna (May 6, 2015)

The link doesn't have a picture of the mold, Irish Lass. I can't quite wrap my mind around the convertible idea without a picture to clarify things, but it sounds intriguing.


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## zolveria (May 6, 2015)

*I was looking at BB i was wondering i can do design in these and the place the dividers in? IS NOT PRACTICLE ? *
 I was also looking at the Measurements. Of probably  creating my own and purchasing the Dividers and silicone.. I make impressions and such but I dont want to use so much Silicone It just is not cost effective. 
I wanted a Lego bar. So Now i am using my Son Legos to create a decent size and mold it out  

But if i can create a slab mold that i can also place divider in after I swirl that would be nice ?

SO the question is Can I do both in one ?




not_ally said:


> I am with everyone else, it is good to have some of both/all.  I use bar molds for mp and (silicone ones b/c of the lye) for cp salt bars because they are harder to unmold in logs.  For regular cp I use log molds, best for swirling and I just like the look/feel/discovery in cutting process, generally silicone ones b/c I hate to line.  In an ideal world where I could make my own wooden molds without cutting off digits, I would have Shunt's molds, where I could buy some good silicone liners and then I (or a handy DH) could make wooden frames to fit them.
> 
> If you are looking for a good, inexpensive tall/skinny silicone loaf mold, I like the WSP one, very good value for the money.
> 
> ETA:  I really like the Brambleberry individual rounds/squares/rectangle silicone molds for making bars, you can use them for mp or cp, they are good and sturdy (although you do have to put them on a baking dish/cutting board or something sturdy if you are going to move them b/c they are a bit floppy) and not too expensive.


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## not_ally (May 6, 2015)

Zolveria, I have thought of making my own dividers for slab molds (I have a couple of the smaller Brambleberry ones) and concluded that it would be too complicated, expensive (if I was using something that would last) and unpredictable.  Plus, I don't really like using slab molds that much except for very specific designs (eg, funnel/spin ones.)  The materials for making molds - except for wood are pretty expensive, and there is a learning curve, which makes it even worse, so I buy most of mine, it ends up better that way.  If I could make wooden ones it might be different, though.

Also, everyone already knows this, but I love having small individual silicone molds on standby to pour leftovers/testers into.  Those are sometimes the most useful ones.


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## zolveria (May 6, 2015)

I Have made my own Wood mold. Those are easy to me. I have been thinking of the PVC Lumber the only thing like i told my husband is that the plastic heats up. i would have to hold a cold water hose on the plastic while he cuts it. That will be the most cost effective way. 

I was thinking of making my slab mold to accomodate BB liner and dividers 




not_ally said:


> Zolveria, I have thought of making my own dividers for slab molds (I have a couple of the smaller Brambleberry ones) and concluded that it would be too complicated, expensive (if I was using something that would last) and unpredictable.  Plus, I don't really like using slab molds that much except for very specific designs (eg, funnel/spin ones.)  The materials for making molds - except for wood are pretty expensive, and there is a learning curve, which makes it even worse, so I buy most of mine, it ends up better that way.  If I could make wooden ones it might be different, though.
> 
> Also, everyone already knows this, but I love having small individual silicone molds on standby to pour leftovers/testers into.  Those are sometimes the most useful ones.


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## IrishLass (May 6, 2015)

DeeAnna said:


> The link doesn't have a picture of the mold, Irish Lass. I can't quite wrap my mind around the convertible idea without a picture to clarify things, but it sounds intriguing.


 
Here are pics of my lovingly well-used dual slab/log mold:

Closed up with cover:








Log mode with divider in place (lined on the bottom with my fondant mat). Sides are not lined in this pic, but I either use fondant mats or mylar cut to size:






Slab mode with divider taken out. The sides are lined with mylar in this pic (albeit haphazardly for quick pic purposes just to give you the basic idea) and lined with a fondant mat on the bottom. The pencil lines you see drawn on the top sides are for where I lay my bamboo skewer grid so that I can 'see' where my bars will be for those times that I strategically place embeds on the top of my soap:






Fully collapsed:





The one that is sold at Diana's is built pretty much the same, only the sides are a little bit higher, and instead of nails to keep things together, there are swivel hooks. Also Diana's cover is built a little differently. I'll try to post pics of that particular mold later on.


IrishLass


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## zolveria (May 6, 2015)

LOVE IT   I guess im just a practical thinker. One mold that be my Transformer  that would so Awesome.  (sigh) slab  loaf bars  :-(


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## DeeAnna (May 6, 2015)

Ahhhh, I see now. Basically a slab mold with higher sides and an appropriate divider. Gotcha! Thank you, Irish Lass -- I appreciate your help and thoughtfulness!


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## soapswirl (May 6, 2015)

Oh wow that's fantastic - I totally have mould envy now!


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## Cactuslily (May 7, 2015)

Zolveria, I too love variety, and have loved my silicones because I can't line. Then, I got my soaphutch mold. Which I absolutely love. They can be customized. However, the one I have can be a slab, individual bars, or 1-3 loaves at a time or even a1lb mold using a dam if I want to try something new like a FO etc.. They may seem costly, but when you figure the diversity given with one mold, they are not. I haven't seen one that has oval bars, but you could ask him. Soaphutch.com. His name is rich, and it's easier to reach him by phone. He's a dream to work with. I'm not affiliated with him in any way, I just love his molds.


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## LBussy (May 7, 2015)

IrishLass said:


> Here are pics of my lovingly well-used dual slab/log mold:


IL, any way I could talk you into making some measurements?  I know it *could* be any size a person wants, but there's something to be said for emulating something that works now.

If you have time, I'd love to see the measurements for:

Depth
Length
Width
Wood Thickness

It looks like a person could make that with a $9 hand miterbox and a trip to the store.


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## IrishLass (May 8, 2015)

LBussy said:


> If you have time, I'd love to see the measurements for:
> 
> Depth
> Length
> ...


 
My pleasure! 

The actual inside dimensions of the total soap-pouring area when in slab mode are as follows: *7.75" wide x 10" long x 2.5" deep* (as depicted in the 3rd picture down in my above post).

When the center divider is in place, I have 2 side-by-side log molds with these dimensions each: *10" long x 2.5" high x 3.5" wide.*

The bottom/base slab of wood that makes up the foundation of the mold is made of plywood and has these measurements: *10.5" x 11 14/16", and the thickness of it is 1/2"*. Although not shown, there are 4 circular (oven-safe) rubber feet attached to each bottom corner. 

The solid hardwood divider (not sure what kind of wood it is, but it's solid hardwood as opposed to plywood) that gets placed into the center of the mold to covert it into log mode has these measurements: *10 7/16" long x 2.5" tall x 3/4" thick.*

The two end-pieces that help make up the frame on the 2 shorter sides of the mold- and which are 100% detachable- are made of the same kind of solid wood as the center divider, and have these measurements: *10 7/16" long X 2.5" high x 3/4" thick*. In the center of each of these is a form-fitting notch which you can see in my pictures that has been machine-carved out to accomodate and anchor the center divider in place for when you want to use the mold in log mode. Also, there is a small, narrow block of solid hardwood permantently glued perpendicularly to either side of these two end-pieces, which have these measurements: *5/8" x 1/2" x 2.5" tall*. [you can see these little attached pieces of wood most clearly in picture #1 above.] They are what the removable brass nails are inserted through- the nails that hold the end pieces in place when the mold is assembled. *The nails are 1.5" long* and they pierce all the way through the little narrow blocks of wood and go a little bit into the abutting side-pieces of wood to hold the mold together as seen clearly in picture #2. 

The two side pieces that make up the frame on the 2 longer sides- which are attached to the base/foundation of the mold by folding hinges- have these measurements: *10" long X 2.5" high x 3/4" thick*. 

The dimensions of the cover: The cover is made of the same kind of plywood as the base/foundation, with a pieces of solid hardwood tapered molding screwed to each side of the cover and which hang over each side of the mold to hold the cover solidly in place to provide full coverage. The plywood dimensions are: *9.25" wide x 11.5" long x 1/2" thick*. The solid hardwood tapered molding pieces screwed onto either of the 2 short sides measure: *8 5/8" long x 1.25" x .25" thick on the top end and tapering down from there*. The tapered molding on the 2 long sides measures: *9.25" x 1.25" x .25" thick on the top end and tapering down from there.* There's also a hardwood knob on top.

As you can see in picture #1, the cover sits flat and fits over the top of the mold like a glove. I make mention of this because when I am making batches of log-type soap with textured tops that I don't want ruined by the cover, I can actually heighten the cover up by 3/4" to protect my fancy tops and still provide 100% full coverage of my mold by setting pieces of modeling clay that are 3/4" tall and wide enough to sit comfortably on top of each corner ledge of the mold (right above the nail area), and then resting the cover on top of the pieces of clay. Of course, though, if you were to build the mold with sides higher than 2.5", you wouldn't have the need to improvise like that to protect your textured tops.


IrishLass


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## LBussy (May 8, 2015)

Thank you!  

I'm going to see if I can't figure out a way to line out how anyone here can make one.  If I do I'll write up a tutorial.  If I do not, well, I'll have a new soap mold.


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## zolveria (May 8, 2015)

*THanks for the measurements*

I was not looking for oval mold. 
Just one slab mold that can do it all. I have several molds. and after it  a while it becomes cumbersome. :wink: But i love the measurement IrishLass.

I can take those to home depot. I was looking into the PVC however i like to CPOP my soap at 175 degrees so I have to normally use Silicone or my Wood Mold in the oven.


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## skayc1 (May 8, 2015)

from watching videos online, I decided that I liked the loaf better than the bars, the design shows better in the loaf molds, although I'm so wanting a slab mold to try this new swirl i saw in a video, where the colors were poured in layers in each corner, then the slab was twisted back & fourth to 'swirl' the colors.


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## TwystedPryncess (May 8, 2015)

For CPOP--My oven only goes to 170 and I find I often have to take the soap out after 45 minutes or risk the tiny bubbles. How do you successfully CPOP at 175?

I also have some recipes that just--do--not--like--to be CPOP'd. They misbehave. I've heard any recipe can be CPOP's but that's not been my experience. They will sometimes come out 'okay' but again- these recipes overheat easy, and they are still pretty basic recipes.

I agree with everyone that a plethora of molds is always the best thing, and on top of that you will develop a style of your own. Some people prefer wood molds, you seem to prefer oval. Some prefer silicone. Go with what you prefer and stock up on THAT kind of mold, but have all of them eventually. Me? I seem to prefer small wooden molds right now. I like to make a lot of 2 and 3 pound batches as opposed to one 10-lb batch. Maybe I am soap ADD at the moment.

Each mold can offer a different technique as others have said. And for ANY mold, there is a sticky in, I think, it is the CP forum that gives a mathematical formula that teaches you how to calculate how much batter you will need to properly fill ANY of your molds--square, round, oval, crazy.

I love that post and I use the formula with the molds my BF made for me. It also helped with the wooden molds that I bought from E-bay, and it helped me figure out that those '4 lb molds' weren't 4 lb molds, but were short. the 4 lb. molds my BF made ARE 4 lb molds, and that formula helped us correctly make the molds. :clap:


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## shunt2011 (May 8, 2015)

I agree with a selection.  I have many molds but have my favorites too.  Some I use once in awhile others frequently.   I have a couple molds that can be used as a slab or can be cut into loafs.  It just depends on the mood sometimes.


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## LBussy (May 15, 2015)

IrishLass said:


> The actual inside dimensions ...


Is the 2.5" high "optimal?"

I ask because I've not really thought that the molds I have are intended to be filled as that makes a bar that's too tall, so is there a level you strive for with a bar which is intended to create a single "layer" of soap?

I don't recall ever seeing a "right size" for a bar, being told rather that "it's your soap, do what you like!"  There has to be considerations for it that I don't know yet, and I'd prefer if I am going to make molds that I learn from those who came before me, rather than having to learn everything the hard way. 

Last question (for this post):  How do you split a slab into bars which are then cut into individual soaps?


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## IrishLass (May 15, 2015)

LBussy said:


> Is the 2.5" high "optimal?"
> 
> I ask because I've not really thought that the molds I have are intended to be filled as that makes a bar that's too tall, so is there a level you strive for with a bar which is intended to create a single "layer" of soap?


 
Hi Lee!

2.5" is a very nice height for me for when my mold is in 'log mode'. I fill it up all the way to the top, and it gives me fully cured bars that fits nicely in everyone's hand (not to big/not too small, but just right).

When it is in 'slab mode', I can choose to 1) fill it up all the way to the top in order to make a double layer, which essentially takes a 4.6 lbs. batch (based on oil amount using a 33% lye solution), giving me a total of 18 bars of soap with the dimensions of 2.5" x 3 5/16" x 1.25" thick at cutting time, or....

2) I can fill the slab up only part way for a single layer, which makes 9 bars @ 2.5" x 3 5/16" x whatever thickness that strikes my fancy. My favorite thickness is 1.25", which happens to take a 2.3 lb. batch of oils @ 33% lye solution, but sometimes I fill it up a little more to get about a 1.5" thickness, which takes a 2.8 lbs. batch of oils @ 33% lye solution. I really love having the option to vary my slab thickness this way.

My other mold of this type that I bought from Dianna's Sugar Plum Sundries has all the same dimensions as the above, but the height of it is 3.5" instead of 2.5", which comes in handy for those times I want to make a double-layer batch of 18 bars in slab mode that are thicker than 1.25"; or for when I'm making log-type soaps with those high, textured tops, which I actually don't really do all that often, but it's still nice to have that option just in case. I can do log soaps of that nature in my other mold, too, only I have to adjust the height of my cover like I explained in my earlier post. With Dianna's mold, I don't have to adjust my cover's height.




LBussy said:


> Last question (for this post): How do you split a slab into bars which are then cut into individual soaps?


 
Ancient Irish secret! ha ha ha.  

Okay, not really- this is what I do: Once my slab of soap is removed and the liners peeled away, I set the soap on my counter flat/horizontally with the longest (10") side facing towards me. Then I take my ruler and divide my 10" slab of soap into 3rds, making my notches on both the nearest-to-me-side and the farthest-from-me-side of the slab so that I can line my long kitchen knife up in the notches to slice down evenly.

Once that is done, I'm left with 3 columns of soap. Working with one column at a time, I set the column down on my counter flat/horizontally with (again) the longest side facing towards me. Then, using my ruler, I divide it into 3rds, making notches and cutting the same as I did above. Voila- 3 perfect bars of soap. Well, almost perfect- they haven't been beveled yet.  Then I do the same to the other 2 columns, which gives me 9 bars total (which I then bevel).

When I make a double-layer slab, I do the exact same as above, which initially leaves me with 9 _really thick_ bars of soap that I further cut in half horizontally to give me a total of 18 bars.

HTH!
IrishLass


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## LBussy (May 16, 2015)

IrishLass said:


> The actual inside dimensions of the total soap-pouring area


Okay I think I have it.  I spent a few minutes (okay a few more than a few) modeling this.  Let me know if I am correct?

Slab mode:







Bar Mode:






Bar Cuts:






Slab Cuts:






And if I understand you correctly, I could make a 3-1/2" high version of this, do all that you do with the other, and not have to prop up the lid?  Any drawback to that plan?


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## kchaystack (May 16, 2015)

LBussy said:


> Okay I think I have it.  I spent a few minutes (okay a few more than a few) modeling this.  Let me know if I am correct?



One thing I found when I was doing my spin swirl, I wanted the mold to be taller than 2x my individual bar height to account for any sloshing around while moving the soap.  While this is more important when you spin the mold, it would help with even normal designs, at least to me


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## IrishLass (May 17, 2015)

Wow, Lee! Impressive! I had hubby double-check your drawings against my mold's measurements, and he gives you 2 thumbs up. 

As an aside, when in log-mode, I can get 8 perfect bars of soap with a 1.25" thickness (or sixteen 1.25" thick bars if fill both logs up).



> And if I understand you correctly, I could make a 3-1/2" high version of this, do all that you do with the other, and not have to prop up the lid? Any drawback to that plan?


 
The only drawback with the taller mold that I've experienced (which is probably just peculiar to me and my preferred soaping methods) happens when I am in log mode. To explain, I rarely make log soap with textured tops (I mostly prefer having squared edges all around), and I like how the shorter 2.5" tall mold gives me the ability to pour my batches of thicker-traced batter all the way to the top so that I can then level it off with the straight edge of a knife or cake spatula to give my log soaps a perfectly flat and even top. I can't do that to my log soap in the taller mold because I don't like to pour my logs in that one all the way to the top. So, the best I can do is jiggle and bang the mold to get the top as even as I can, and then plane off any uneven-ness later if need be. 

Be that as it may, though, the extra inch is still nice to have in that it allows one to have a few more handy options up their sleeve to choose from should the fancy ever strike. Besides the option of having the ability of making textured tops in log-mode without having to adjust the cover up, one also has the option of being able to have thicker bars when making a double-layer of soap in slab mode.

IrishLass


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## LBussy (May 17, 2015)

IrishLass said:


> Wow, Lee! Impressive! I had hubby double-check your drawings against my mold's measurements, and he gives you 2 thumbs up.


I had wanted to learn this tool so this was my excuse to do so.  It's sort of fun to be able to "cut" up wood with abandon, although if you figure the cost of my time it's still cheaper to buy the wood. 



> The only drawback with the taller mold that I've experienced [...]


I'd wondered if that was not the case.  I can see where a person might make a small "screed board" to drop down into it, but that may work better in my head than in reality.  It also might be a good application for a "shaker table" which we'd discussed previously.  A good vibration would allow soap to level out pretty quickly and also raise any entrained bubbles.

Hrm ....


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## nebetmiw (May 17, 2015)

BTW BB has on sale the Oval silicon mold right now.


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## LBussy (May 30, 2015)

IrishLass said:


> As an aside, when in log-mode, I can get 8 perfect bars of soap with a 1.25" thickness (or sixteen 1.25" thick bars if fill both logs up).


I gave some more thought to this while drinking coffee this morning.  It struck me that the design you shared results in bars that are not 3.5" wide if you use it in slab mode.  As I said I monkeyed around a bit with a design and I used the following assumptions for a stab at a "universal" mold:


3.5" wide is very common and might be considered a standard for design purposes
2.5" high is very common and might be considered a standard for design purposes
A cover is a good thing to aid gelling
The cover should allow fancy tops which may be > 2.5" high
A bar of ~10" long seems more optimal for handling.
Having a slab mold allows one to make designs (such as swirls) not created as easily in logs.
Removable sides are better than non-removable

Do those seem a reasonable place to start?  Are there any cases where those would prevent me from doing something one might consider essential?  If those are reasonable then I came up with the following design - I'd love it if someone wanted to poke holes in it.  Here's how it looks in "loaf" mode:






And here it is in "slab" mode:






It would use some small fillers to even out the slots where the dividers went.

('scuse the watermarks, I didn't notice I had that turned on till after I rendered the pics)

It has a lid, and it fits flush since the sides are 3.5" deep:






And instead of having pins and hinges, I thought it would be easier if two sides were fixed and the other two just slid in - no tools or hardware:






10.5" x 12" seems odd, but you need at least 10.5" one way to allow for three 3.5" logs being sectioned out.  You need 12" the other way to allow for the dividers (1.5" total) and then three logs 3.5" wide.  If you went down to two bars you could do 7.75" x 7" but that would leave you pretty short bars and I thought that would be less optimal - given the work to make the mold and/or soap is not that much greater for longer bars.  

I dunno, at least that's how I got here.  Am I way off base?


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## TwystedPryncess (May 31, 2015)

I want one,  regardless of what anyone else thinks.


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## snappyllama (May 31, 2015)

That's pretty awesome, Lee.  The only thing other thing I could want in a mold is a Tall/Skinny section.... maybe increasing the overall height to accommodate it and making one loaf more narrow.  Oh, and dividers for when it is a slab mold.  I LOVE those on my BB slab mold.  As is though, I'd buy one if I was interested in making bigger batches.


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

snappyllama said:


> That's pretty awesome, Lee.  The only thing other thing I could want in a mold is a Tall/Skinny section.... maybe increasing the overall height to accommodate it and making one loaf more narrow.


What's tall and skinny to you?   These are 3.5" high x 3.5" wide.   Guess I've not wanted a tall and skinny soap - or I'm not following.  Either is possible. 



> Oh, and dividers for when it is a slab mold.  I LOVE those on my BB slab mold.  As is though, I'd buy one if I was interested in making bigger batches.


You mean those plastic ones?  I'd read that dividers don't last in the long run, and I also figured to make a loaf splitter.   Or again, I may be missing something.


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## commoncenz (May 31, 2015)

Heck Lee, let us know when we can begin ordering!


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

commoncenz said:


> Heck Lee, let us know when we can begin ordering!


I would not be adverse to the idea of making more than one (if that's within forum rules) but I'm a few weeks away from being able to do so.  I spent a few hours cleaning out the shop today, I have some more to do yet AND I'm going on vacation soon.  Yay me!  Almost two full weeks of beach house time!


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## snappyllama (May 31, 2015)

I like the dividers like this: http://www.brambleberry.com/9-Bar-Unfinished-Birchwood-Mold-P5169.aspx  I put them in after the soap is in the mold... it drags down the top design onto the sides which I think is a nice effect.  It also makes un-molding salt bars incredibly easy.

The Tall and Skinny mold I have and love is from American Soap Supplies.  It measures 2.25 wide x 3.75 high.  So it's just .25 taller than your loaf design but 1.25 thinner. If you're planning on making these molds to sell, you might consider a T&S version that would make fewer bars in a slab... since the base needed would be smaller.  I think the trick there is to cut your wooden loaf dividers to a thickness that the slab is completely usable when cut into rows of standard size bars. If that makes sense...


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## reinbeau (May 31, 2015)

snappyllama said:


> The Tall and Skinny mold I have and love is from American Soap Supplies.  It measures 2.25 wide x 3.75 high.  So it's just .25 taller than your loaf design but 1.25 thinner. If you're planning on making these molds to sell, you might consider a T&S version that would make fewer bars in a slab... since the base needed would be smaller.  I think the trick there is to cut your wooden loaf dividers to a thickness that the slab is completely usable when cut into rows of standard size bars. If that makes sense...


_Or_ it could have four sections of 'tall skinny'.

My problem with the design is when it's in slab mold, those 'inserts' might make a leaky mess and never be able to be removed.  In slab mold it would have to be lined - and at that point, in slab mold, go for a silicone liner perhaps??


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

snappyllama said:


> I like the dividers like this: http://www.brambleberry.com/9-Bar-Unfinished-Birchwood-Mold-P5169.aspx  I put them in after the soap is in the mold... it drags down the top design onto the sides which I think is a nice effect.  It also makes un-molding salt bars incredibly easy.


Those dividers are UHMW and I have my doubts about their long-term viability.  How long have you used yours? 



snappyllama said:


> The Tall and Skinny mold I have and love is from American Soap Supplies.  It measures 2.25 wide x 3.75 high.  So it's just .25 taller than your loaf design but 1.25 thinner.


Isn't that basically making bars sideways?



reinbeau said:


> My problem with the design is when it's in slab mold, those 'inserts' might make a leaky mess and never be able to be removed.  In slab mold it would have to be lined - and at that point, in slab mold, go for a silicone liner perhaps??


Would you ever use a wooden mold without lining it?  Not really following there.  I feel pretty good about the inserts being correctly sized so there's no "divots" and even if you got some soap on them, you could pop the end with a kitchen knife.  Both ends would be accessible on all of them because of the dado (groove).


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## reinbeau (May 31, 2015)

LBussy said:


> Would you ever use a wooden mold without lining it?  Not really following there.  I feel pretty good about the inserts being correctly sized so there's no "divots" and even if you got some soap on them, you could pop the end with a kitchen knife.  Both ends would be accessible on all of them because of the dado (groove).


Hmm, didn't think of it that way.  Good point.  Duh on me   Regarding the tall skinny - yes, it's making the bar on the side, so to speak, but people just love them, the skinniness of them makes them easy to smaller hands to hold, I've heard people say.


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## snappyllama (May 31, 2015)

Lee, I've used my dividers only about 10ish times. So far I haven't seen any wear on them. I'm a hobbyist though, so my usage is pretty light. 

The T&S is a bit like making a bar sideways.  They are great for being able to do certain designs though. They seem to have gotten really popular recently, with a lot of suppliers suddenly offering the molds.  I really  like the size bar they make. I have fairly small hands and the soap fits in my hand better than typical loaf molds.  I agree with Ann, you could make a regular sized multi-loaf and a T&S multi-loaf.  I actually haven't seen an multi-T&S loaf, so that could be a selling point. Also, one thing I've seen folks mentioning is looking for a T&S that cuts into fewer bars... most produce 12 bars which is a little much for hobbyists like me.  A multi-loaf with each loaf making 8 or 9 bars would be nice.


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## snappyllama (May 31, 2015)

Another thought... a T&S multi-loaf with enough headroom for a textured top might be deep enough to get two regular bars out of slab configuration.  That would be great for things like spin swirls or for folks that just want to make bigger batches.


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## reinbeau (May 31, 2015)

snappyllama said:


> Another thought... a T&S multi-loaf with enough headroom for a textured top might be deep enough to get two regular bars out of slab configuration.  That would be great for things like spin swirls or for folks that just want to make bigger batches.


I like the way you think!   I do like to be able to cut bars horizontally for various effects like spin swirls.


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## LBussy (Jun 1, 2015)

I'll play with some measurements and see what I can come up with.  Making The One Mold™ (with apologies to JRR Tolkien) may be a tall order if you will excuse the pun, but within reason some dimensions can be fudged with inserts as I have seen some of the others do.

In theory, once a design is done it's not much harder to make a slightly different size since I won't be using CNC.  I do need to order some more blades though.


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## IrishLass (Jun 1, 2015)

Wow, Lee- awesome design! 

Re: unmolding: The hinges on mine make the task of unmolding quite easy, but the one thing that I'm wondering about with your design is how easy or difficult it will be to slide those end pieces up and out in order to open up the mold to get the soap out. My wonder stems from the way in which I line my mold. I use either mylar or silicone fondant mats that are temporarily 'glued' to the sides of my mold with Vaseline. Although it doesn't take much effort to detach the sides of my mold outward from the Vaselined mylar or silicone with a gentle tug or push so that I can swing the sides down away from the liner (which is still stuck to my soap), I'm trying to picture whether or not I might need to slide a knife down and run it along the length in between the mylar and wooden side before the sides can slide up unhindered. 



			
				LBussy said:
			
		

> I gave some more thought to this while drinking coffee this morning. It struck me that the design you shared results in bars that are not 3.5" wide if you use it in slab mode. As I said I monkeyed around a bit with a design and I used the following assumptions for a stab at a "universal" mold:


 
Yes- my slab bars are 2.5 long by about 3 5/16" wide. I compensate for the slight loss in wideness by making my slab bars thicker. 

I drew your slab dimensions out on paper to physically 'see' the size bars it would make, and it's just the opposite to mine- the width of each bar is a perfect 3.5", but the length is just a bit shy of 2.5". lol No biggie for me, though- I'd just simply compensate the same by making my slab bars thicker. 

Making 1 mold to rule them all (hats off to Tolkien) sure would be awfully cool indeed if one could work all the bugs out, but I wonder if it would turn out to be more trouble to make than it's worth. You might end up having to take it to Mount Doom to throw it into the fire and keep Gollum company. lol 

If it were me (and if I made molds), I wouldn't try to include a T&S aspect to the design. I'd make a separate mold for that instead, because the taller sides might prove to be a frustration when using the mold in its other modes.

For what it's worth, my T&S mold liner makes soaps that are 3.75" high x 2.5" wide, but the wooden mold that holds the liner itself is actually 5" tall (1.25" taller than the liner) to provide some extra headspace in case of upwardly expanding soap when gelling. That much height in a universal mold would annoy me to no end if I were using it in slab mode or in regular log mode. Just my 2-cents.


IrishLass


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## Luv2Soap (Jun 2, 2015)

To me it is a tossup. I like the loaf molds because you could be extremely creative with them with swirls and embeds. However, I like the bar molds because they feel more like real soap in my hand, or at least the soaps that I am used to.


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## LBussy (Jun 2, 2015)

IrishLass said:


> Re: unmolding: The hinges on mine make the task of unmolding quite easy, but the one thing that I'm wondering about with your design is how easy or difficult it will be to slide those end pieces up and out in order to open up the mold to get the soap out. My wonder stems from the way in which I line my mold. I use either mylar or silicone fondant mats that are temporarily 'glued' to the sides of my mold with Vaseline.


A reasonable point.  The hinges to me just "feel" wrong, But I'll noodle on that some more.   This should be simple, allow lifting up the mold when full, and ideally become an heirloom and not a disposable mold after years of even the roughest handling.  A little bit of raw soap on those hinges would spell disaster for them I fear.

I'm really hoping to avoid all metal which could come in contact with raw soap for that reason.  It should also be tool-less of course.



IrishLass said:


> I drew your slab dimensions out on paper to physically 'see' the size bars it would make, and it's just the opposite to mine- the width of each bar is a perfect 3.5", but the length is just a bit shy of 2.5". lol No biggie for me, though- I'd just simply compensate the same by making my slab bars thicker.


I think it would be impossible to make a loaf length which was perfect for everyone - for the same reason that the soap cutters out there are either adjustable or are purchased at a desired width.  Everyone has a different idea of perfect.  At the worst, a particular length would leave one "bad" bar, and everyone knows that's the soaper's bar anyway. 



IrishLass said:


> For what it's worth, my T&S mold liner makes soaps that are 3.75" high x 2.5" wide, but the wooden mold that holds the liner itself is actually 5" tall (1.25" taller than the liner) to provide some extra headspace in case of upwardly expanding soap when gelling. That much height in a universal mold would annoy me to no end if I were using it in slab mode or in regular log mode. Just my 2-cents.


Agreed.  I was more looking to find one design which could be modified when made to allow different options without designing a completely new mold each time.



Luv2Soap said:


> To me it is a tossup. I like the loaf molds because you could be extremely creative with them with swirls and embeds. However, I like the bar molds because they feel more like real soap in my hand, or at least the soaps that I am used to.


I can appreciate that.  The challenge is, as we've seen, everyone has a different idea about the right size.


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## TeresaT (Jul 10, 2015)

Lee,  I love the mold and like many others, would like to have one.  However, I think the bottom of the mold should be smooth, not grooved.  I have the mold from Dianna's Sundries that IL posted about earlier.  The bottom is smooth.  I made a single loaf and it leaked.  It was easy getting the soap off of the bottom.  However, it was a major chore getting it out of the grooves where the divider sits.  I cannot imagine going through that again on a larger scale, as I would if I don't properly line the bottom of your mold.


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## LBussy (Jul 10, 2015)

TeresaT said:


> Lee,  I love the mold and like many others, would like to have one.  However, I think the bottom of the mold should be smooth, not grooved.  I have the mold from Dianna's Sundries that IL posted about earlier.  The bottom is smooth.  I made a single loaf and it leaked.  It was easy getting the soap off of the bottom.  However, it was a major chore getting it out of the grooves where the divider sits.  I cannot imagine going through that again on a larger scale, as I would if I don't properly line the bottom of your mold.


I appreciate your observations.

The challenge is, I think, a design that is mechanically sound yet provides features soapmakers want.  Anyone can make a plain box.  I want to make something people don't supply.

Done well, a mold like that with dados (the grooves are called dados) could be very handy.  I don't think anything can prevent a mess if the liners leak. A mold could be made that would still come back apart easily even if it leaked.  Would that alleviate your concern?

I've been poking around, sticking scrap wood together, trying to find a good way to do it.  If it's going to be just like everything else then I'm not going to bother because there are plenty of choices already.


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## TeresaT (Jul 10, 2015)

LBussy said:


> I appreciate your observations.
> 
> The challenge is, I think, a design that is mechanically sound yet provides features soapmakers want.  Anyone can make a plain box.  I want to make something people don't supply.
> 
> ...



OK.  I see your point.  I'd invest in it with or without the dados.  That was just an observation I made while looking at your cool drawings.  And the only reason I even thought of it was because of the leak I had.  (Which I probably wouldn't have had if I used freezer paper instead of the "custom" liners that came with the mold.)  I love the idea of using one mold to make three logs at a time.  My only experience so far with a slab mold was a failed column pour that reminds me of a dead amoeba.


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## LBussy (Jul 11, 2015)

TeresaT said:


> .My only experience so far with a slab mold was a failed column pour that reminds me of a dead amoeba.


That's not a failure, you've just not thought of a catchy name to describe it.


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