# Question about curing time



## Katrina (Apr 15, 2014)

My husband and I just made our first batch of melt and pour. We bought some shea butter base and some glycerine from Michaels. I'm sure it's not the best products in the world, but we just wanted to have a little fun while we research what we really want to buy. We mixed 2lbs of the shea with 1 lb of the glycerin because our mold holds 3 lbs. We added our essence oil and some tea leaves and orange and lime zest. It poured well and we cut the bars. The instructions say to let it cure for 2-4 weeks, but I'm not reading about cure times anywhere else for M&P soap. It has a slightly tacky feel. We live in NM so it's a very dry climate. Should we let it cure or not?  Thanks


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## Hazel (Apr 15, 2014)

That is odd. I've never heard of a cure time for MP. That's one of the benefits that it's ready to go as soon as is hardens. Of course, Michaels' isn't known for quality MP. I've seen a couple of reviews about the soap base they carry and both people said it felt tacky so you're not the only person to comment on it.

I like the MP Cierra Candles carries which is made from " Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Safflower Oil, Glycerine (kosher, of vegetable  origin), Purified Water, Sodium Hydroxide saponifying agent), Sorbitol  (moisturizer), Sorbitan oleate (emulsifier), Soy bean protein  (conditioner)". However, I know there are other suppliers which carry the same base. You might be able to find a supplier close to you.


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## lisamaliga (Apr 15, 2014)

Hazel suggested the base that is made by SFIC and it's excellent. I've used the base that Michael's sells as an experiment and it's okay. If you live in NM you live in the ideal soap crafting climate. The problem you're experiencing can probably be attributed to the soap base.


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## Khanjari (Apr 15, 2014)

I sometimes do use the soap base from Michaels.  What is the base type? They sell 4-5 types.... clear glycerin, white glycerin, olive oil base, Shea Butter, goats milk etc.... 

I have never felt that tacky feeling


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## Katrina (Apr 16, 2014)

I used shea and clear glycerin. It's not too bad, but there is a slight tackiness. We're planning on doing CP in the future but we're busy researching what tools and supplies we want to buy first. We just purchased the Michaels stuff to have a little fun while we figure the rest out.


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## SoapyQueenBee (May 13, 2014)

I've had the same issue with the Michael's M&P bases.  I've resorted to 'curing' my cut bars for 3-5 days, but they're all still fairly tacky.  I've been wondering if it was just something I was doing wrong, or perhaps Washington is just the wrong humidity level for M&P.. good to know that it's not just me.  
I'm looking around for a new supplier, as we speak, I'd be happy to pass on any recommendations, after I try a few different ones, if you'd like.


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## Khanjari (May 13, 2014)

I have tried Hobby Lobby bases and the 5lbs slab is cheaper than Michael's and I found it was better!!! It could be just me but....

Hope you like it too


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## lisamaliga (May 14, 2014)

Stephenson's and SFIC are 2 of the best bases on the market. If you're in Washington state you can get SFIC base from a local supplier: Brambleberry. http://www.brambleberry.com/Bramble-Berry-Bases-C11.aspx


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## SoapyQueenBee (May 18, 2014)

I get my bases from Bramble Berry, and I can definitely see a significant difference between these and the 'craft' soap bases, such as at Michaels.  The prices are very good, as well.



**just got bases in from Bramble Berry, that is.  Some days, I'm pretty sure I don't know how to speak!


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## Rigneylane (May 18, 2014)

*Curing time*

Hello!  I would let at least some of the batch cure for 2-4 weeks as per instructions, just so you could see any difference between the cured and immediately used soap.  Most soap sold for rebatching (melt & pour) is sold fairly "young", or soon after it's made, because it's easier to work with young soap.  However, "young" soap still may have un-reacted lye.  It usually does take at least 4 weeks from production date for lye to fully react in the soap base.


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## Sheila Pullar (May 18, 2014)

Does melt and pour soap stop sweating after about four weeks? I usually wrap it straight away to stop this from happening. Can I take the cling film I wrap it with off after a few weeks or could it still sweat? Can any one give me advice? X


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## Hazel (May 18, 2014)

Yes, it _*could *_still continue to sweat because of the glycerin content. Glycerin is a humectant but I think humidity would be a factor. I rarely have had MP soap sweat except for when it's extremely humid. However, I'm not an expert and I don't make MP very often. Hopefully, someone who is an expert with MP will correct me if I'm wrong.

BTW, MP soap will slightly shrink over time if left unwrapped. I assumed there was a little water evaporation to cause the shrinkage. The soap was still good just a tad smaller as compared to the others. The ones I had wrapped were fine.



Rigneylane said:


> Hello!  I would let at least some of the batch cure for 2-4 weeks as per instructions, just so you could see any difference between the cured and immediately used soap.  Most soap sold for rebatching (melt & pour) is sold fairly "young", or soon after it's made, because it's easier to work with young soap.  _*However, "young" soap still may have un-reacted lye.  It usually does take at least 4 weeks from production date for lye to fully react in the soap base*_.



Where did you read this information? I've always read it only takes one day to several days for lye to completely react with the oils depending on whether you gel or prevent gel. However, you want to cure for at least 4 weeks to allow for excess water evaporation and for the soap to become milder.

Plus I highly doubt suppliers are selling soap base with un-reacted lye. That would be a lawsuit waiting to happen.


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## Sheila Pullar (May 19, 2014)

Thank you for your comments x


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## SunRiseArts (Aug 21, 2017)

I do a lot of MP.  I personally do not like Stephenson bases, they do not melt evenly.

I have bought the Michael ones, and I have never had problems with it.  Did you add anything besides fragrance to the base?  If you the a slab  of 2 or more pounds, they only need to sit overnight.

Di you spray it with alcohol at the end?


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## SunRiseArts (Aug 21, 2017)

Sorry I was doing a search and did not realize this thread is old.  Mods feel free to delete my comments.


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