# Lard Recipe



## TheGecko

So I purchased a small tub (16 oz) of Armor Lard to experiment with, but I know very little about using Lard in soap.  What I do know is that it can be slow to trace and that it can be used as a substitute for Palm Oil.  

With the latter in mind, I would be using 20% Lard; is this enough to create a notable difference? My other ingredients are 35% Olive, 20% Coconut and 5% Castor Oils, and 10% each of Cocoa and Shea Butters.

Does anyone have a Lard recipe that they would be willing to share? 

I figure I have enough Lard to make three -16 oz batches...just plain soap, no colorants or scents and to be cured for a minimum of six weeks.

Thank you in advance.


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## Obsidian

My recipe, 5% SF

Lard 50%
Olive 25%
Coconut 20%
Castor 5%


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## cmzaha

I use 27% lard in soap with tallow and yes, I do notice a difference. I make a beautiful creamy soap with no dos. Other than that I am one of the few that have dos issues with lard even with 2% superfat


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## TheGecko

Thank you both.  I will definitely try your recipe @Obsidian...thank you for your generosity in sharing it.


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## Jersey Girl

TheGecko said:


> So I purchased a small tub (16 oz) of Armor Lard to experiment with, but I know very little about using Lard in soap.  What I do know is that it can be slow to trace and that it can be used as a substitute for Palm Oil.
> 
> With the latter in mind, I would be using 20% Lard; is this enough to create a notable difference? My other ingredients are 35% Olive, 20% Coconut and 5% Castor Oils, and 10% each of Cocoa and Shea Butters.
> 
> Does anyone have a Lard recipe that they would be willing to share?
> 
> I figure I have enough Lard to make three -16 oz batches...just plain soap, no colorants or scents and to be cured for a minimum of six weeks.
> 
> Thank you in advance.



If you swap the olive and lard. 35% lard, 20% olive, what you have listed is basically my standard recipe. I have not experienced any DOS at all although my oldest lard soaps are only 4 months old.  It makes an awesome bar of soap.


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## TheGecko

Jersey Girl said:


> If you swap the olive and lard. 35% lard, 20% olive, what you have listed is basically my standard recipe. I have not experienced any DOS at all although my oldest lard soaps are only 4 months old.  It makes an awesome bar of soap.



Thank you.


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## Susie

My "current" lard recipe:

Lard 65%
Olive Oil 15%
Coconut Oil 15%
Castor Oil 5%

Superfat 3% (I live where there is hard water, and no whole house water softener)

If you have hard water, that is a whole 'nother conversation on how to deal with that.


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## AliOop

I have two versions of my basic lard recipe:

70% lard
20% CO
5% shea
5% castor

The other version has no shea, and the additional 5% goes to lard.

Both are 5%SF plus goat milk, and also sugar for more lather. Sometimes I add SL but don’t notice that much difference.

I have also made it with 50% lard and added in 20% OO, but I like the high lard ones better.

@cmzaha thank you for sharing your lard-tallow combo. I have lots of home-tendered tallow, so I’m definitely going to try that!


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## SPowers

The recipe I just used is 60% lard, 15% palm, 20 CO & 5% caster oil.  The original recipe called for 75% lard and no palm but I didn't have enough lard so made the substitute.  Slow to trace and seems very nice.


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## TheGecko

Thank you all.  I just ran all of these through SoapCalc w/33% Lye Concentration...hope that is what you are all using; if not, let me know.

I'm going to start with Obsidian's recipe, then I'll have to make a trip to the store to get more Lard.

@cmzaha - Not ready to try Tallow just yet...not sure where to purchase it and the current global pandemic isn't at a point where I need to start rendering my own.  Kind of like learning to shear a sheep, clean the wool, card the wool, and spin it into yarn.  In case of an apocalypse, I have two local yarn stores that I can clear out.


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## Quilter99755

I've been playing around with lard anywhere from 30% to 75%.  I started with subbing lard for palm when I ran out of palm for my usual soap. I found I liked the creamy lather. Little by little I have also gotten rid of my olive oil and am now using RBO in varying percentages.  Lard, RBO and a butter (shea or cocoa).  All are between 4-9 months old with no DOS even when the linoleic/linolenic numbers were on the high side (18 was the highest combo).   So far I've found the lard/RBO combo to be way better than any of my soaps with OO, so doubt if I'll ever use it again.  I don't see much of a difference in the soaps  at any of the percentages...just like the lather and since getting rid of OO, I have no itches.


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## cmzaha

TheGecko said:


> Thank you all.  I just ran all of these through SoapCalc w/33% Lye Concentration...hope that is what you are all using; if not, let me know.
> 
> I'm going to start with Obsidian's recipe, then I'll have to make a trip to the store to get more Lard.
> 
> @cmzaha - Not ready to try Tallow just yet...not sure where to purchase it and the current global pandemic isn't at a point where I need to start rendering my own.  Kind of like learning to shear a sheep, clean the wool, card the wool, and spin it into yarn.  In case of an apocalypse, I have two local yarn stores that I can clear out.


Soapers Choice carries tallow. I purchase mine from Smart and final in 50lb cubes, but you may not have S&F's or want 50 lbs. SC sells smaller amounts.


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## SPowers

TheGecko said:


> Thank you all.  I just ran all of these through SoapCalc w/33% Lye Concentration...hope that is what you are all using; if not, let me know.
> 
> I'm going to start with Obsidian's recipe, then I'll have to make a trip to the store to get more Lard.
> 
> @cmzaha - Not ready to try Tallow just yet...not sure where to purchase it and the current global pandemic isn't at a point where I need to start rendering my own.  Kind of like learning to shear a sheep, clean the wool, card the wool, and spin it into yarn.  In case of an apocalypse, I have two local yarn stores that I can clear out.


I ran the recipe through soapcalc when I switched out some of the lard for the palm.


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## Catscankim

I have only been soaping for a few weeks so i cant give advice, but i can tell you that i have made several bars with 80/20 lard/coconut oil. It is very easy to work with.

My sister was like eewww lard? So i made her another recipe. Im tempted to give her one of each of the recipes and not tell her to see what she thinks lol.


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## DeeAnna

An 80% lard, 20% coconut oil soap doesn't necessarily lather all that well at first, at least it has not done so for me, but it will turn into a _very _nice soap after a generous cure. This particular recipe was the one that taught me all about the benefits of curing soap to increase the lather and longevity and add mildness. It was an eye opener.

As far as the people who get squicked by lard and tallow in soap -- If they use Dove or any of many commercial soaps or combination soap-syndet bars, tell them to look at the ingredients list.

Commercial soaps don't use lard, because it's more valuable in other products, but tallow is a _very _common ingredient in soap and combo bars -- look for sodium tallowate or potassium tallowate. If lard is bad, tallow is no better.


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## Susie

Catscankim said:


> I have only been soaping for a few weeks so i cant give advice, but i can tell you that i have made several bars with 80/20 lard/coconut oil. It is very easy to work with.
> 
> My sister was like eewww lard? So i made her another recipe. Im tempted to give her one of each of the recipes and not tell her to see what she thinks lol.



I made 80% Lard, 20% CO.  I wasn't that crazy about it.  I like it much better with some Olive Oil and Castor Oil.  Why not try both, then tweak it to suit yourself?

I arrived at my recipes by changing 5% of one oil for another oil.  For example:  80% Lard, 15% Coconut Oil, 5% Castor Oil.  Then 75% Lard, 20% CO, 5% Castor Oil, etc.  Then after I figured out that Olive Oil might help my skin, I added that to the testing.  60% Lard, 15% CO, 20% Olive Oil, 5% Castor Oil. Then 65% Lard, 15% CO, 15% OO, 5% Castor Oil. Etc.  And I went all the way from 100% Lard on down to 15% Lard just to perfect that recipe.  And I did that with every ingredient I wanted to try. Lots of bars of soap, lots of testing.  But I don't regret it.  I now know exactly what each oil brings to the soap.  And I can read a recipe and know how it will feel and act without having to make it myself.


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## dianaabuela1

Quilter99755 said:


> I've been playing around with lard anywhere from 30% to 75%.  I started with subbing lard for palm when I ran out of palm for my usual soap. I found I liked the creamy lather. Little by little I have also gotten rid of my olive oil and am now using RBO in varying percentages.  Lard, RBO and a butter (shea or cocoa).  All are between 4-9 months old with no DOS even when the linoleic/linolenic numbers were on the high side (18 was the highest combo).   So far I've found the lard/RBO combo to be way better than any of my soaps with OO, so doubt if I'll ever use it again.  I don't see much of a difference in the soaps  at any of the percentages...just like the lather and since getting rid of OO, I have no itches.


Sorry to ask  but what is DOS and RBO?


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## lucky one

I googled RBO I am pretty sure it is Rice bran oil. I have never used it personally.  Also I think DOS is dreaded orange spots that happens in Cold process soap. If someone else could confirm that would be great ☺ I use the hot process method so I have not had to deal with them.


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## SPowers

Right on both accounts.  I have new bottle of RBO on my shelf but haven't used it yet... still working with different oils to get a feel for them.   DOS if I remember right can be caused by oils that don't have a long shelf life and can go rancid - there's lot of info available online about it.


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## shunt2011

I use 40% Lard, 20% CO, 25% liquid oil (Avocado, olive, HO sunflower), 10% Shea and 5% Castor in one of my favorite recipes.


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## SPowers

shunt2011 said:


> I use 40% Lard, 20% CO, 25% liquid oil (Avocado, olive, HO sunflower), 10% Shea and 5% Castor in one of my favorite recipes.


This sounds like a nice combination.


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## Quilter99755

I'm slow this morning but RBO and DOS were correctly explained. I became interested in lard after some of the posters were calling themselves "lardy ladies" and additionally since I could get the lard at the grocery store rather than depend on mail order. I've been subbing different ingredients in each of my lard soaps as I want to find one or two combos that will satisfy my family.  It took a while to soap enough to "get ahead of the pack" so to speak on curing but finally did it.  None of my bars that I use are under 4 months old and I make sure that I do at least one or two batches a month now to keep ahead of the game. I may not be able to feel much of a difference between some of the formulas, but not a one of them leave my skin itchy or dry feeling.  And they all have lard in them. I'm sold as far as lard.


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## linne1gi

SPowers said:


> Right on both accounts.  I have new bottle of RBO on my shelf but haven't used it yet... still working with different oils to get a feel for them.   DOS if I remember right can be caused by oils that don't have a long shelf life and can go rancid - there's lot of info available online about it.


One of the things you should watch out for is your linoleic and linolenic acid number  (bottom right in Soap Calc) - if you keep that number at 14 or under, your soap should be fine.  It's not a hard and fast rule - just a guideline.


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## SPowers

I read that not too long ago so it's something I now try to remember to watch... thanks for the reminder!


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## TheGecko

@Obsidian - Unmolded my beautiful white rounds this evening.  What is your recommended curing time?


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## Obsidian

TheGecko said:


> @Obsidian - Unmolded my beautiful white rounds this evening.  What is your recommended curing time?



4-6 weeks is good.


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## Hope Ann

shunt2011 said:


> I use 40% Lard, 20% CO, 25% liquid oil (Avocado, olive, HO sunflower), 10% Shea and 5% Castor in one of my favorite recipes.



That sounds lovely.  Hard bar, long lasting?  Not too drying with that much coconut?  Or does it offset the lard and shea muting the bubbles?

Hope


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## SolSoapflorida

I did a recipe that uses 30% Lard, 25% coconut, 15% Palm, 13% canola, 10% shea, and 7 % Castor and really love it.  It turns out so nice each time I made it (made 4 different batches with 4 different colors and scents).


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## shunt2011

Hope Ann said:


> That sounds lovely.  Hard bar, long lasting?  Not too drying with that much coconut?  Or does it offset the lard and shea muting the bubbles?
> 
> Hope



I've not had any complaints.  I use it with no issue as does my family and friends an no complaints there either.  Yes, it lasts just fine and is hard enough.   I SF it at 4-5%.   Makes good lather.  I also use coconut milk in most my batches enhanced with powdered to make full milk.   I use the split method for my milk soaps.


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## SPowers

Where do you get goat's milk powder?  It's very expensive where I live ($50 for 12 oz).  Could I use 1//2 goat's milk in my lye/water mixture then add regular powdered milk to the batter?


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## linne1gi

SPowers said:


> Where do you get goat's milk powder?  It's very expensive where I live ($50 for 12 oz).  Could I use 1//2 goat's milk in my lye/water mixture then add regular powdered milk to the batter?


You could do the split method. Dissolve your lye in an equal amount of water. Let it cool and add your milk. This works great. You don’t have to freeze the milk and it doesn’t scorch.


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## SPowers

I use a masterbatch of 1:1 so half is already water.  I add the remaining liquid as milk - this time goat's milk.  shunt2011 says she adds powdered milk to make the batch full milk which is the reason for my question.


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## linne1gi

SPowers said:


> I use a masterbatch of 1:1 so half is already water.  I add the remaining liquid as milk - this time goat's milk.  shunt2011 says she adds powdered milk to make the batch full milk which is the reason for my question.


That’s how I do it as well. But instead of goats milk, I usually add heavy cream (because that’s what I have in the house for coffee). Of course you can add powdered milk also. In that case I would add the powdered milk to the oils.


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## SPowers

Thanks... So I assume it doesn't matter what kind of powdered milk I add?


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## shunt2011

SPowers said:


> Where do you get goat's milk powder?  It's very expensive where I live ($50 for 12 oz).  Could I use 1//2 goat's milk in my lye/water mixture then add regular powdered milk to the batter?



I get it at my grocery store or from Amazon.   I can also sometimes get it at my bulk food store these days.   I add the powdered mild to the liquid milk before adding it to my oils and stickblend it well.   I've had the powdered milk get clumps.   I wouldn't use powdered if it was that expensive.   WoW!  I've used powdered goat milk and coconut milk.


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## AliOop

SPowers said:


> Where do you get goat's milk powder?  It's very expensive where I live ($50 for 12 oz).


A can lasts a long time, but $50... that's almost 4x what I paid for mine. I buy mine on Amazon (Meyenberg brand), or from WSP (their brand) if I'm ordering other stuff from them. The Meyenberg brand is also sold in local stores near me, but is generally pricier there. 



SPowers said:


> Thanks... So I assume it doesn't matter what kind of powdered milk I add?


I don't like the powdered cow milk. It is always non-fat, and to me, doesn't provide the same creaminess as goat milk. I've had others say that the powdered milk left a bad smell in their bars. I didn't have that experience, but more than one person has made that remark. But others use it all the time with no problem.


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## SPowers

AliOop said:


> A can lasts a long time, but $50... that's almost 4x what I paid for mine. I buy mine on Amazon (Meyenberg brand), or from WSP (their brand) if I'm ordering other stuff from them. The Meyenberg brand is also sold in local stores near me, but is generally pricier there.
> 
> 
> I don't like the powdered cow milk. It is always non-fat, and to me, doesn't provide the same creaminess as goat milk. I've had others say that the powdered milk left a bad smell in their bars. I didn't have that experience, but more than one person has made that remark. But others use it all the time with no problem.


Yeah, and that's from Amazon.ca... guessing it comes from the U.S. so there are add-ons for shipping, customs etc.  And I have Prime!  Sadly I checked and my Bulk Barn doesn't carry it.  Liquid only it will be.


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## SPowers

Great - thanks!


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## Catscankim

My lard soaps are almost 4 weeks old. I just started using one at the sink. Its wonderful. I love how it makes my hands feel. This recipe is

960g lard (armour) basically 2 loaves of lard and a couple plops from a third lol.
240g coconut oil

170g lye
456g distilled water.

i went to the store a few times over the last week and they are always out lately.


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## SpaceCorgi94

I made my first soap with lard! The recipe was the Simple Soap from soap queen, and all I did was a 1:1 replacement of the palm oil with the lard. It hardened in the mold very quickly, about 12 hours. I could've cut it sooner but I waited 18 before I cut it, and ended up getting some cracked edges unfortunately :\ 

It's been over a week since I started curing the bars, and it's very hard. It creates a nice lather and doesn't have any overpowering smell (I didn't add any fragrance) on the bar or the hands.

As you can see, I added cocoa to a portion of it to make some swirls, so I can't attest too strongly on the colour with/without gelling, but I think it'd be like the paler white parts all through if no colourants were to be added.


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## ursulla

can l use sulphonic acid in laundry bar soap making


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## shunt2011

ursulla said:


> can l use sulphonic acid in laundry bar soap making


You may want to start a new thread to get a response to your question since it's totally different than this thread.


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## michael732

Susie said:


> I made 80% Lard, 20% CO.  I wasn't that crazy about it.  I like it much better with some Olive Oil and Castor Oil.  Why not try both, then tweak it to suit yourself?
> 
> I arrived at my recipes by changing 5% of one oil for another oil.  For example:  80% Lard, 15% Coconut Oil, 5% Castor Oil.  Then 75% Lard, 20% CO, 5% Castor Oil, etc.  Then after I figured out that Olive Oil might help my skin, I added that to the testing.  60% Lard, 15% CO, 20% Olive Oil, 5% Castor Oil. Then 65% Lard, 15% CO, 15% OO, 5% Castor Oil. Etc.  And I went all the way from 100% Lard on down to 15% Lard just to perfect that recipe.  And I did that with every ingredient I wanted to try. Lots of bars of soap, lots of testing.  But I don't regret it.  I now know exactly what each oil brings to the soap.  And I can read a recipe and know how it will feel and act without having to make it myself.


This is amazing. Sounds like you have made a lot of soap. So.. with all your experience, you are confident on using this?

Lard 65%
Olive Oil 15%
Coconut Oil 15%
Castor Oil 5%

Can I use Armour Lard from my local Walmart?

Thank you..


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## Jersey Girl

michael732 said:


> This is amazing. Sounds like you have made a lot of soap. So.. with all your experience, you are confident on using this?
> 
> Lard 65%
> Olive Oil 15%
> Coconut Oil 15%
> Castor Oil 5%
> 
> Can I use Armour Lard from my local Walmart?
> 
> Thank you..



Armour Lard is great. Many of us here use it including myself. That recipe will work. May not be very bubbly but will have a nice creamy lather. Add some sugar to help with bubbles. Dissolve first in your water before adding lye. I use lard in almost all my soaps. I love it.


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## michael732

TheGecko said:


> @Obsidian - Unmolded my beautiful white rounds this evening.  What is your recommended curing time?


Did you use the Armour Lard? I picked up a container last night from Walmart. Not sure if its the right stuff to use.


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## Jersey Girl

michael732 said:


> Did you use the Armour Lard? I picked up a container last night from Walmart. Not sure if its the right stuff to use.


Not @Obsidian but I can tell you that you bought the right stuff.


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## michael732

Jersey Girl said:


> Not @Obsidian but I can tell you that you bought the right stuff.


Thank you for the help. Cool to see a Jersey soaper.

Stay safe.


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## SPowers

Lard 65%
Olive Oil 15%
Coconut Oil 15%
Castor Oil 5% 
This is basically my go-to recipe except I use Palm Oil instead of Olive Oil.  The first batch I made of this has just finished curing so haven't tried it yet but fingers crossed.


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## Susie

I use this recipe almost exclusively.  And almost always with Armour lard.  As @Jersey Girl said, I do add sugar to my recipe at 28 g/500 g oils.  Works a charm to boost suds.  I have hard water now, so I also use EDTA @ 0.5%.


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## linne1gi

Susie said:


> I use this recipe almost exclusively.  And almost always with Armour lard.  As @Jersey Girl said, I do add sugar to my recipe at 28 g/500 g oils.  Works a charm to boost suds.  I have hard water now, so I also use EDTA @ 0.5%.


I just started (a year ago) adding citric acid to my soaps. To help with soap scum and I think it works. I add additional NaOH to counteract the increased super fat.


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## Arimara

michael732 said:


> This is amazing. Sounds like you have made a lot of soap. So.. with all your experience, you are confident on using this?
> 
> Lard 65%
> Olive Oil 15%
> Coconut Oil 15%
> Castor Oil 5%
> 
> Can I use Armour Lard from my local Walmart?
> 
> Thank you..


I hope you tried this recipe. I would be gentle but good.


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## michael732

Arimara said:


> I hope you tried this recipe. I would be gentle but good.


I just cut (2 minutes ago) my first batch of soap I have ever made. 

Lard 30%
Olive 35
Coconut 25
Avocado  5
Caster 5

My first soap please be kind. The white (TD) is loaded with glycerin rivers. Ill have to figure out what I did wrong.


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## linne1gi

michael732 said:


> I just cut (2 minutes ago) my first batch of soap I have ever made.
> 
> Lard 30%
> Olive 35
> Coconut 25
> Avocado  5
> Caster 5
> 
> My first soap please be kind. The white (TD) is loaded with glycerin rivers. Ill have to figure out what I did wrong.


It's the amount of water you used.   If you used "full" water, that is really a misnomer.  There is no full amount of water, really.  The predetermined amount of 38% water as a percentage of oils was originally intended for HP soaping where a lot of moisture is lost during the cook.  CP soap just doesn't need that amount of water.  This article may help.  






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## Arimara

michael732 said:


> I just cut (2 minutes ago) my first batch of soap I have ever made.
> 
> Lard 30%
> Olive 35
> Coconut 25
> Avocado  5
> Caster 5
> 
> My first soap please be kind. The white (TD) is loaded with glycerin rivers. Ill have to figure out what I did wrong.


That's pretty nice, actually. TD is actually known for that so it might be best to tell us how much water and lye you used for your soap.


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## tommysgirl

michael732 said:


> I just cut (2 minutes ago) my first batch of soap I have ever made.
> 
> Lard 30%
> Olive 35
> Coconut 25
> Avocado  5
> Caster 5
> 
> My first soap please be kind. The white (TD) is loaded with glycerin rivers. Ill have to figure out what I did wrong.


Looks great! Personally, I love the glycerin rivers here!! Very unique and artistic look


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## linne1gi

Arimara said:


> That's pretty nice, actually. TD is actually known for that so it might be best to tell us how much water and lye you used for your soap.


Titanium Dioxide does not cause glycerin rivers - it enhances them.  It's the water, which makes the soap heat up quicker and stay hot longer.  If you look on YouTube for I Dream In Soap.  She explains this process.


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## Arimara

linne1gi said:


> Titanium Dioxide does not cause glycerin rivers - it enhances them.  It's the water, which makes the soap heat up quicker and stay hot longer.  If you look on YouTube for I Dream In Soap.  She explains this process.


My bad but I also haven't really used it yet either. Either way, thanks.


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## michael732

Arimara said:


> That's pretty nice, actually. TD is actually known for that so it might be best to tell us how much water and lye you used for your soap.


I used soapcalc.net. I wanted to make sure the batter stayed fluid long enough for me to make the pour, so I went for a high water percentage. 38% of oil. I could have discounted water and not forced gel via CPOP. I really didn't need need to force gel with a black and white swirl. Am I on the right track here with my thinking?



Arimara said:


> My bad but I also haven't really used it yet either. Either way, thanks.


Lisa from I dream in Soap has amazing in depth videos about water discounts and what it does to your soap.


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## linne1gi

michael732 said:


> I used soapcalc.net. I wanted to make sure the batter stayed fluid long enough for me to make the pour, so I went for a high water percentage. 38% of oil. I could have discounted water and not forced gel via CPOP. I really didn't need need to force gel with a black and white swirl. Am I on the right track here with my thinking?
> 
> 
> Lisa from I dream in Soap has amazing in depth videos about water discounts and what it does to your soap.


Well, sort of.... More water, as I said previously makes the soap heat up quicker and stay hot longer.  With excessive water, you need not CPOP, which actually could be a mess, because the soap can volcano.  I do a steep water discount and in order to achieve full gel, I have to CPOP.  This article explains water discounting well.






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## SPowers

michael732 said:


> I just cut (2 minutes ago) my first batch of soap I have ever made.
> 
> Lard 30%
> Olive 35
> Coconut 25
> Avocado  5
> Caster 5
> 
> My first soap please be kind. The white (TD) is loaded with glycerin rivers. Ill have to figure out what I did wrong.



It looks great and I like the glycerin river.  I had this problem all the time when I first started.  I was told to reduce the amount of water so now I use a 2:1 water/lye mixture - I haven't had glycerin rivers since!


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## TashaBird

TheGecko said:


> Thank you all.  I just ran all of these through SoapCalc w/33% Lye Concentration...hope that is what you are all using; if not, let me know.
> 
> I'm going to start with Obsidian's recipe, then I'll have to make a trip to the store to get more Lard.
> 
> @cmzaha - Not ready to try Tallow just yet...not sure where to purchase it and the current global pandemic isn't at a point where I need to start rendering my own.  Kind of like learning to shear a sheep, clean the wool, card the wool, and spin it into yarn.  In case of an apocalypse, I have two local yarn stores that I can clear out.


Tallow is my jam! I use it as the main fat in all my soaps and skin care, including a %100 tallow. I use lard, but only what I triple render from making bacon.


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## Claudette Carignan

michael732 said:


> I just cut (2 minutes ago) my first batch of soap I have ever made.
> 
> Lard 30%
> Olive 35
> Coconut 25
> Avocado  5
> Caster 5
> 
> My first soap please be kind. The white (TD) is loaded with glycerin rivers. Ill have to figure out what I did wrong.


It looks very pretty


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## michael732

Claudette Carignan said:


> It looks very pretty


Thank you.


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## earlene

linne1gi said:


> Well, sort of.... More water, as I said previously makes the soap heat up quicker and stay hot longer.  With excessive water, you need not CPOP, which actually could be a mess, because the soap can volcano.  I do a steep water discount and in order to achieve full gel, I have to CPOP.  This article explains water discounting well.
> 
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> See posts, photos and more on Facebook.
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> l.facebook.com


That link you have in 2 of your posts takes me to facebook.    I don't think that's what you intended.


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## Arimara

earlene said:


> That link you have in 2 of your posts takes me to facebook.    I don't think that's what you intended.
> View attachment 49281


Click the link and press "Follow Link". She bookedmarked the Article on to FB.


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## Tasha

I have been using Lard but I wouldn't say I have a lard soap ....What do you think it adds to the soap? 
I know it is said to have a stable lather but I wanted to know if you guys see any major benefits aside from that?


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## AliOop

Tasha said:


> I have been using Lard but I wouldn't say I have a lard soap ....What do you think it adds to the soap?
> I know it is said to have a stable lather but I wanted to know if you guys see any major benefits aside from that?


Lard is very gentle, and few people have negative reactions to it (as compared to OO or CO, for instance), so it's excellent for people with sensitive skin.


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## DeeAnna

Lard is an inexpensive source of stearic and palmitic acids -- these fatty acids are the reasons why a soap high in lard tends to be mild and long lasting with creamy lather.


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## The_Phoenix

I'm dipping my toes into making an animal fat/lard soap, starting toady. I've been hesitant because the FA profile hasn't wowed me (compared to other fats I use), but since everyone seems to love it in their soaps, what the heck, I'm game. And curious. Following this thread very closely. I'm excited to see how the resulting bar measures up to my other soaps. And I love how inexpensive it it.



AliOop said:


> Lard is very gentle, and few people have negative reactions to it (as compared to OO or CO, for instance), so it's excellent for people with sensitive skin.


This is a large reason why I want to try it. Some of my first soaps were high in CO and made my skin (and my testers' skin) itchy. The highest I go now in CO is 18% and keep "cleansing" around 14.


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## TheGecko

The_Phoenix said:


> I'm dipping my toes into making an animal fat/lard soap, starting toady. I've been hesitant because the FA profile hasn't wowed me (compared to other fats I use), but since everyone seems to love it in their soaps, what the heck, I'm game. And curious. Following this thread very closely. I'm excited to see how the resulting bar measures up to my other soaps. And I love how inexpensive it it.



I made a batch...uncolored, unscented...and my testers loved it.  One got upset after she found out that it contained Lard (ewwwwwwwwww), but she refused to give the bar back.  LOL


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## The_Phoenix

TheGecko said:


> I made a batch...uncolored, unscented...and my testers loved it.  One got upset after she found out that it contained Lard (ewwwwwwwwww), but she refused to give the bar back.  LOL


Since you didn't tell your testers beforehand about the lard, I'll not tell either. I generally don't tell them what the ingredients are (to prevent any sort of bias), though I do ask them if they are allergic to anything, just to be safe. And none of them are vegan.

I'm excited! From what I read, getting to emulsion with lard takes a bit longer. I'm expecting it so be slow moving like a Castille or Bastille. Did you find that to be the case?


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## Tasha

The_Phoenix said:


> This is a large reason why I want to try it. Some of my first soaps were high in CO and made my skin (and my testers' skin) itchy. The highest I go now in CO is 18% and keep "cleansing" around 14.



Do you find you bars lack in bubbles or do you have a way to still get bubbles with the low CO and cleansing?


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## The_Phoenix

Tasha said:


> Do you find you bars lack in bubbles or do you have a way to still get bubbles with the low CO and cleansing?


I use honey in my soaps, which makes for lovely bubbles. I'll be testing sorbitol in my soaps this week. I also soap with beer, wine, fruit purees (and vegetable purees that contain natural sugars--pumpkin, carrots, etc.), and goat's milk, which helps create bubbles.

One reason coconut oil is so cleansing is because it is water soluble. Meaning, if you take solid coconut oil in your hands, rub it around to melt it, and rinse it off with water, the oil rinses away and does not leave an oily residue, and it takes with it any dirt you have on your hands. It is a fantastic makeup remover for that reason (even waterproof mascara). But, the trick with soap is that high CO removes natural oils in your skin, and that's generally what causes dryness. You want to cleanse away some of the natural oils to feel clean, but not too much.

If you tried the same experiment with olive oil, the oil does not rinse away. You'd actually have to use soap to get the olive oil off of your hands because the olive oil does not dissolve in water. That is why olive oil is such a wonderfully conditioning oil, though it can leave people feeling a little slimy.

Even with a low cleansing rating of your soap, the bubbles you create by incorporating additives is what breaks the surface tension between your skin, which ups the bubbles, thereby upping the cleansing properties. This is a very non-scientific way of explaining it. Hope that makes sense!


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## AliOop

Tasha said:


> Do you find you bars lack in bubbles or do you have a way to still get bubbles with the low CO and cleansing?


I use around 20% CO + 5% castor + 1 T sugar PPO with my lard soaps. As long as I cure them for at least 3 months, the lather is very good. However, I like them even better after 4, 5, and 6 months' cure.


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## Dawni

DOS happens to hot process soap too lol

I love my lard soap with 60% lard, 5% castor, 15% coconut and 20% RBO. It's my mom's favorite. It sells too. For some reason a lot of people here don't mind lard in their soaps - probably coz they love their fries cooked in it too haha

Incidentally, it's my cheapest soap to make as well lol as none of the above ingredients go beyond 5$ a kilo/liter where I am. 

Another plus for me is it makes a very fluid HP soap you can design with. I did a couple of challenges meant for CP in HP with this recipe. And since it costs me so little, I don't mind so much if the swirls don't go as planned haha


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## Becky1024

Tasha said:


> Do you find you bars lack in bubbles or do you have a way to still get bubbles with the low CO and cleansing?


I add citric acid to my lye water as a chelator for soap scum. An added benefit is it increases bubbles in my 100% lard soap.


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## Megan

Tasha said:


> Do you find you bars lack in bubbles or do you have a way to still get bubbles with the low CO and cleansing?


My CO percentage and cleansing is about the same and bubbles are very good. I also don't have to use sugar to get a good lather.


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## Tasha

Becky1024 said:


> I add citric acid to my lye water as a chelator for soap scum. An added benefit is it increases bubbles in my 100% lard soap.



Interesting, I've never tried citric acid. I normally add dead sea salt for hardness and sugar for bubbles. I'll have to try the citric acid. What's the amount you put in ppo?


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## SPowers

I haven't done 100% lard but my go-to recipe is between 50-60%.  I love it.  All the benefits speak for themselves but working with it is a dream as well.


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## Dawni

Tasha said:


> Interesting, I've never tried citric acid. I normally add dead sea salt for hardness and sugar for bubbles. I'll have to try the citric acid. What's the amount you put in ppo?


Best place to learn about citric acid... And other soapy stuff 





						Citric acid, Citrus juice | Soapy Stuff
					

Classic Bells restores antique sleigh bells and manufactures bell home decor. Wholesale. Retail.




					classicbells.com


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## AliOop

Tasha said:


> Interesting, I've never tried citric acid. I normally add dead sea salt for hardness and sugar for bubbles.


Do you really add Dead Sea salt, or did you mean Himalayan Sea salt?

Dead Sea salt has so many minerals that it will make your soap a gooey, sweaty mess. All those minerals can also contribute to DOS. It is generally never used at all in making soap.

If you did use something labeled as “Dead Sea salt” without problems, then you probably have a mix that is mostly some other kind of salt, with a tiny sprinkling of Dead Sea salt for label appeal. I still wouldn’t use it.


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## shunt2011

@Tasha  I wouldn't recommend dead sea salt.  It can cause weeping in soap and can cause DOS as AliOoop stated.   I tried it once a long time ago and it was a mess.


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## Becky1024

Tasha said:


> Interesting, I've never tried citric acid. I normally add dead sea salt for hardness and sugar for bubbles. I'll have to try the citric acid. What's the amount you put in ppo?


I use 3%, and adjust my lye amount like what Dawni said on the classic bells website.


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## Tasha

AliOop said:


> Do you really add Dead Sea salt, or did you mean Himalayan Sea salt?
> 
> Dead Sea salt has so many minerals that it will make your soap a gooey, sweaty mess. All those minerals can also contribute to DOS. It is generally never used at all in making soap.
> 
> If you did use something labeled as “Dead Sea salt” without problems, then you probably have a mix that is mostly some other kind of salt, with a tiny sprinkling of Dead Sea salt for label appeal. I still wouldn’t use it.



Yea, dead sea salt. I use HP method and dissolve it in the water before mixing the lye and have never had any issues but now that you say that I think I'll stop using it. I have Stearic acid but never used it in soap and haven't done the proper research to start.


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