# CP soap leaking oil?



## Backwoodsmama (Nov 13, 2013)

I am new to soapmaking and have made about half a dozen successful batches of cp soap. Yesterday I decided to try a new recipe: http://www.lovinsoap.com/2013/02/th...d-honey-cold-process-soap-milk-in-oil-method/

The only change I made was that I dissolved the lye into whole goats milk instead of water. I double checked everything with the lye calculator on Brambleberry and my lye mixture and oils were at 46C when mixed.  I measured every ingredient exactly. The mixture came to a light-medium trace before I poured it into the molds. 

After 24 hours I unmolded the soap and noticed a crack along the top which I thought was a volcano effect from the honey. When I sliced the soap there was an area that was weeping clear liquid which looked like oil. I tested the leaking liquid with phenolphthalein and it stayed clear. So... I'd love to hear your thoughts as to what when wrong and what I should do with the soap. 

I've attached a picture as well.

Thanks!


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## Obsidian (Nov 13, 2013)

That is from overheating, probably from a combo of the milk and honey. As long as its not zappy its safe to use but personaly I would rebatch it to get the oils mixed back in just in case.


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## My Mountain Soaps (Nov 13, 2013)

I agree. And also, there is an art to milk based soaps, one that i have yet to figure out


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## cmzaha (Nov 13, 2013)

It is definitly from overheating. When this happens they will usually leak a considerable amount of oil. I would rebatch and try to pour back in your lost oil or add in some extra oil to your rebatch. Sorry I don't measure when I have this happen I just chop it up put in my stainless pan with a squirt of oil or the dump in the leaked oil and melt it down in the oven.

When I make milk soaps I actually do them like she does, using a 50/50 lye solution and adding the milk to the oils. I find this method so much easier than fooling around with frozen milks. Do not insulate a milk soap and it is best if you can put it in the freezer. I just finished up a coconut that I know heats severly so I chilled everything including the mold and got it in the freezer as quick as possible. I noticed I still have a partial gel. Goat's Milk, Honey, sugars, Neem oil, Beeswax and spice eo's are all heaters. There are others but these are what I could think of at the moment


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## Backwoodsmama (Nov 14, 2013)

Thanks for the replies! The soap isn't zappy so I think it's safe. I've never done rebatching before. How would I go about this? Can someone suggest a site that has directions that I can follow? Thanks


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## cmzaha (Nov 14, 2013)

Your soap is probably still very soft from the looks of the seeping oil. What I do in such case is put on gloves and smush it up in a stainless steel pot. Pour in the oil that squeezes out and even give an extra squirt of oil for good measure. You should not need any added liquid at this point. But if you have lactic acid or even a little sugar water it will help the batter smooth out. I usually put my oven 170 degrees and check on progress in an hour. If still not melted I turn my oven to 190 degrees. Patience is not my strong suit. You can also use a double boiler or crock pot. I just find I get a better smoother melt in the oven. It is so aggravating when these things happen.


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## tryanything (Nov 14, 2013)

Or you can crock pot it, but it ultimately is the same process.  I bought a crock pot from goodwill for $2.50 that I use strictly for soaping.  I even saw a brand new one at Walmart for less then $20 but I'm good with my little 2 quart one.  I shred the soap in my food processor then put the pot on low, stirring occasionally until everything is melted together. Then pour/glop back into your mold.  I had two OMH failures recently for the exact same reason so I feel you!


Sent from my iPhone using Soap Making


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## TeriDk (Nov 14, 2013)

The next time you make a milk soap, you might want to freeze the mold and then after pouring, place the mold back into the freezer or the fridge.  You want to prevent gelling which will prevent overheating.  It works well for me.


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## seven (Nov 14, 2013)

This happened to me recently as well. I was soaping with banana milk + coconut milk. Did a double strength lye solution and split the rest b/w the b, and cm. Mine wasn't leaking oil, more like pus that smelled like banana (euw!).

I ended up shredding the soap and rebatching in the crock pot. It seems okay now. The hole was bigger than yours, and with the hot climate and humidity here, I didn't think it's gonna dry up on its own with the curing. Was afraid it might go rancid and ended up totally unusable, so over to crock pot it goes.

Good suggestions I've read so far, gonna make sure I keep everything cool (including mold) for next try


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## cmzaha (Nov 15, 2013)

This must be contagious. Had it happen to a soap that I needed to get done for an order, and of course it did not cooperate. It is a neem, honey and goatmilk and charcoal facial. Soaped cold, but it in the freezer then I noticed two extras I had poured in a silicone mold were leaking oil. Not supposed to overheat in indivual cavity silicone. As I knew would happen held it over a crock pot and sqeezed. Lots of leaky oil. This time I did use a crock pot because the soap was so soft. I just smooshed it up and it melted great and is now in the mold setting up. Thank goodness. Neem is a know heater oil, but I love the stuff


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## roseb (Nov 15, 2013)

You are a brave soul!  I've yet to combine honey & milk.  Good luck with the rebatch!


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## washhousesoap (Apr 3, 2015)

I found that my milk soaps come out perfect each time when i use nut milk ice cubes and freeze my mould. I also put my lye in the fridge covered up to avoid contamination and soap at 90/100df.  After trace i dont mess with the soap and freeze for a few hours before transferring to the fridge over night. This avoids having to defrost the soap in the morning. Hope that helps


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## The Efficacious Gentleman (Apr 3, 2015)

washhousesoap said:


> I found that my milk soaps come out perfect each time when i use nut milk ice cubes and freeze my mould. I also put my lye in the fridge covered up to avoid contamination and soap at 90/100df.  After trace i dont mess with the soap and freeze for a few hours before transferring to the fridge over night. This avoids having to defrost the soap in the morning. Hope that helps



This is a rather old thread.  This sort of thing has been answered a fair few times since then.  Any particular reason for bringing this one back to life?


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## washhousesoap (Apr 6, 2015)

oh sorry i was googe searching soap techniques and this came up on one of the links, i didnt notice it was so old l


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