# Sticky feeling after washing hands



## Candle Guy (May 9, 2020)

Hello everybody,

Ok I know that my soap needs to sit for a month or so but after about 10 days I decided to sample a piece. I kind of just wanted to experiment a bit. So I washed my hands with a piece of the soap I made and it lathered up really well and felt very moisturizing while rinsing. Right after I dried my hands off with a towel, my skin started to feel almost sticky. Then about a minute later the stickiness feeling disappeared and my hands went back to normal. No burn or sting in fact they feel great. So what could be causing this stickiness? Is this normal? Any ideas? Thanks everyone


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## Todd Ziegler (May 9, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Hello everybody,
> 
> Ok I know that my soap needs to sit for a month or so but after about 10 days I decided to sample a piece. I kind of just wanted to experiment a bit. So I washed my hands with a piece of the soap I made and it lathered up really well and felt very moisturizing while rinsing. Right after I dried my hands off with a towel, my skin started to feel almost sticky. Then about a minute later the stickiness feeling disappeared and my hands went back to normal. No burn or sting in fact they feel great. So what could be causing this stickiness? Is this normal? Any ideas? Thanks everyone


It would help if we knew what your recipe is. Because without it we would just be guessing without any data to work with.


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## Candle Guy (May 9, 2020)

Ok 75% olive oil
      20% coconut oil
      5% Castor oil
5% superfat
Water 4.89 
Lye 2.20
Fragrance .50%


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## Candle Guy (May 9, 2020)

Here is the recipe on paper. Probably easier this way


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## Todd Ziegler (May 9, 2020)

I would say that the amount of olive oil that you have in it is what is causing, plus with only 10 days curing there is still a lot of water in the oil. With 100% OO (castile) it can take 6-12 months for the soap to fully cure and since you have 75% OO you can expect at least 3 months before all that goes away.


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## Candle Guy (May 9, 2020)

Yikes that is a long time lol. So are there any quicker curing recipes for a beginner that you know of or suggest? Thanks for the info also


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## Todd Ziegler (May 9, 2020)

Here is one that I use, you can alter the way you want it

You can use after about 30 days but the longer you curve it the better.


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## moodymama (May 9, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Here is the recipe on paper. Probably easier this way


I made  this recipe for my soap color pucks but I used 40% lye concentration and don't get any sticky feel. I did wash my hands with one next day just to see what it was like.


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## Candle Guy (May 9, 2020)

Thank you Todd I appreciate it.


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## Todd Ziegler (May 9, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Thank you Todd I appreciate it.


No problem and if you want to use olive oil just use it instead of the safflower oil. I wouldn't go above 30% olive oil or you will need a longer cure time. You can also lower your super fat to 2 or 3% and that will help.


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## Candle Guy (May 9, 2020)

Awesome I will try that. Not sure where to find palm kernel flakes. I am lost when.it comes to what ingredients to add and what does what? Lol

Also what kind of lard to use? When I hear lard I hear crisco lmao


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## atiz (May 9, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Awesome I will try that. Not sure where to find palm kernel flakes. I am lost when.it comes to what ingredients to add and what does what? Lol


You don't absolutely need palm kernel flakes (I have never used it). You can replace it with coconut oil, but I would not go higher than 20% total with that.
Lard you can find in the grocery store usually, or local butcher shop (here they even sell it at the farmers' market). It makes a very nice soap. 
So, you could have CO 20%, lard 40%, some liquid oil or two 35%, castor oil 5%. That would be a pretty decent soap; of course you would need to run it through a soap calc.


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## IrishLass (May 9, 2020)

Re: the stickiness......you may very well be experiencing the feel of the naturally occurring glycerin present within your soap that's created through the saponification process (which is normally somewhere between 10% and 15%), especially if you are used to washing with commercial soaps and this is your first time using handmade lye-based soap (commercial soaps usually remove the glycerin).

For what it's worth, what you described is exactly how my hands feel when I wash with my handmade liquid soap made with glycerin as part of the water amount. The excess glycerin causes my hands to feel a little sticky/tacky for about 10 to 15 seconds or so before disappearing.


IrishLass


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## Candle Guy (May 9, 2020)

Thanks Lass so it kind of sounds normal I suppose?


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## DeeAnna (May 9, 2020)

Glycerin is certainly a possibility -- I know what IL is talking about. Another thing it might be is hard water scum. 

Soap + hard water minerals = soap scum which can also feel sticky on the skin. 

I'm not sure if I could tell whether the sticky feel is glycerin or scum just by just washing my hands. I'd have to use it in the shower to get more skin involved in the experiment.


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## Candle Guy (May 9, 2020)

I will attempt a shower next and see where that goes lol. I will also have to do some research I suppose and see what each oil and ingredient to add for what and how they perform. I want my soap making to remain simplistic for now yet I do not want 6 month cure times either. I have to find some lard now. I was just grocery shopping and asked if they had lard but they said no. I think Target might sell lard? I saw online that there is lard in a bottle.


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## moodymama (May 9, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> I will attempt a shower next and see where that goes lol. I will also have to do some research I suppose and see what each oil and ingredient to add for what and how they perform. I want my soap making to remain simplistic for now yet I do not want 6 month cure times either. I have to find some lard now. I was just grocery shopping and asked if they had lard but they said no. I think Target might sell lard? I saw online that there is lard in a bottle.


Walmart sells 4lb tub of lard for $7.


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## Candle Guy (May 9, 2020)

Thank you Moody. Thank you to everyone for the help and I do appreciate it.


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## Arimara (May 10, 2020)

Todd Ziegler said:


> I would say that the amount of olive oil that you have in it is what is causing, plus with only 10 days curing there is still a lot of water in the oil. With 100% OO (castile) it can take 6-12 months for the soap to fully cure and since you have 75% OO you can expect at least 3 months before all that goes away.


The recipe was made with a 31% lye solution. It's not bad but he could have upped the concentration to at least 35% to knock out some of the liquid. I agree with Irish on the glycerin and definitely agree about the soap being only 10days old. That soap would need 24 more weeks or so before it starts to shine some.


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## Candle Guy (May 10, 2020)

Arimara should I keep the water around 30 and just up the lye solution as you posted?


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## moodymama (May 10, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Arimara should I keep the water around 30 and just up the lye solution as you posted?



The water will change when you change the lye concentration.


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## Candle Guy (May 10, 2020)

Oh ok great thank you very much


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## Microchick (May 10, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Awesome I will try that. Not sure where to find palm kernel flakes. I am lost when.it comes to what ingredients to add and what does what? Lol
> 
> Also what kind of lard to use? When I hear lard I hear crisco lmao


I just got pkf from Amazon


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## Candle Guy (May 10, 2020)

Thanks microchick


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## Zing (May 10, 2020)

Welcome, @Candle Guy and good luck with this fun addiction er um I mean hobby!  You'll eventually find a recipe you like.  My only comment is that my 5% castor oil is a 'must have' in all my soaps, I love how it affects lather.  The really hard part for me, even now, is waiting 4-6 weeks for the cure.  It helps to soap on a regular basis so that something is always ready to use.

I recently bought, didn't make, a soap that is nearly 100% olive oil and me and my family have all commented how it feels slimy and sticky.  I'll stick to my variations of avocado/palm/olive/coconut/castor oils!

Keep us posted!


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## Candle Guy (May 10, 2020)

Zing thank you for the welcome and everyone seems to be very helpful. I have castor oil, coconut oil and olive oil in my inventory at the moment. I have around 350 different scents to choose from in my candle supplies. I dont use all of them though hahahha. I am sure that I can find some that are compatible with soaping. I have heard lard being mentioned for a great bar of soap but would you suggest and other kind of oil or additive that would work well with my current inventory?


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## Todd Ziegler (May 11, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Arimara should I keep the water around 30 and just up the lye solution as you posted?


If you are using a soap calculator what I would recommend is to not go by the water and base your recipe off of the % of lye and the water will take care of itself. With that much olive oil you want to set your lye % to 33%-35% then the calculator will give you the correct amount of water. It is much easier that way.


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## Candle Guy (May 11, 2020)

Awesome thanks Todd. I went out and bought lard this morning and I am in the process of making a 1 lb batch.


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## Todd Ziegler (May 11, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Awesome thanks Todd. I went out and bought lard this morning and I am in the process of making a 1 lb batch.


That is great. Let us know how it turned out and if you have any questions just ask. There's always someone with an answer lol. 

If you follow the recipe I used or something close, just remember it is slow to trace (thicken) but your fragrance oil can accelerate your soap. Make it thicken fast. But if you remember to just pulse your stick blender for no more than a second or two and wait a few heart beats in between before you pulse your stick blender it will be just fine. 

Once you become familiar with your recipes and fragrance oils you will figure out just how long you need to blend. I will pulse my stick blender for 3-4 seconds to emulsify on certain recipes but for others it can be less. The less you use your SB the better.


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## Candle Guy (May 11, 2020)

Here is a pic right after I poured.


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## Todd Ziegler (May 11, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Here is a pic right after I poured.


Looks good. Lard is slow to trace but depending on the recipe you used, it should be hard enough to cut in 24 hours. Did you use any sodium lactate or salt? They will help your soap harden up quicker.


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## Candle Guy (May 11, 2020)

No I didn't use any of that but i will definitely try that next time. How much salt per pound would you suggest? Now I came to a slight trace in just a couple minutes. I stick stirred in bursts and hand stirred in between. I stuck with 40% lard but did 30% olive oil, 5% castor and 25 coconut oil. I used Coconut Lime Verbena at 6%. Figured that I would give that a shot. I used 31% water. Now the superfat I am still kind of a little confused on so I left it at 5%. I have heard people minimizing it to 3%. I need to study up some more on all of that. I let the oils and lye get to about 110 degrees. Funny enough I somehow managed to get them to cool at the same temperature lol. Lucky I guess


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## Todd Ziegler (May 11, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> No I didn't use any of that but i will definitely try that next time. How much salt per pound would you suggest? Now I came to a slight trace in just a couple minutes. I stick stirred in bursts and hand stirred in between. I stuck with 40% lard but did 30% olive oil, 5% castor and 25 coconut oil. I used Coconut Lime Verbena at 6%. Figured that I would give that a shot. I used 31% water. Now the superfat I am still kind of a little confused on so I left it at 5%. I have heard people minimizing it to 3%. I need to study up some more on all of that. I let the oils and lye get to about 110 degrees. Funny enough I somehow managed to get them to cool at the same temperature lol. Lucky I guess


Salt 1 teaspoon per pound of oil and dissolve it in your water before you add the water to the lye. I use sodium lactate at 3% of your oil weight. I have my SF at 2% because you honestly can't get a soap that will soften your hands with the oils. The majority of people have a 3-5% SF. If it stays to soft to cut it after 24 hours you might want to use a 33% lye concentration. Try to get away from using the water % on your calculator. I generally mix at between 105° F to 115° F. I always gel my soap because it makes brighter colors and helps the soap harden a little faster.


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## Todd Ziegler (May 11, 2020)

Here is the setting on the calculator that you should use, if you are not already using it.


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## Candle Guy (May 11, 2020)

Great thanks for that info. I might make another batch tomorrow and try that out as well. I will probably go back onto the scent lists that are in the forums and see how certain ones behave. Also I want to see if it has any other scents that I have on hand.


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## Todd Ziegler (May 11, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Great thanks for that info. I might make another batch tomorrow and try that out as well. I will probably go back onto the scent lists that are in the forums and see how certain ones behave. Also I want to see if it has any other scents that I have on hand.


No problem,glad to help.


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## Candle Guy (May 12, 2020)

Update on the Coconut Lime Verbena. It turned out great so far.


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## Todd Ziegler (May 12, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Update on the Coconut Lime Verbena. It turned out great so far.


Really looks great. What was your recipe, just curious?


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## Candle Guy (May 12, 2020)

This was the recipe. I will be trying another in a few with the salt being added and the lye concentration at 33 as you suggested.


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## Todd Ziegler (May 12, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> This was the recipe. I will be trying another in a few with the salt being added and the lye concentration at 33 as you suggested.


That is a good recipe, you should be happy with how it turns out. 

Here's my salt bar recipe and you need to set your super fat at 20% and you should use an individual bar mold. If you don't have a mold like that, then you can use a loaf mold but just remember that the salt bar will harden very fast and you will need to cut it in 1-2 hours. I added 50% of the weight of my oils in salt. For example if your recipe has 20 ounces of oil, you would use 10 ounces of salt. You can use less if you want to but do not adjust the size of your recipe to include the salt. For example if you are going to do a 16 ounce batch, then you will end up with 16 ounces plus the salt, for example let's say you are using 6 ounces of salt you will end up with 22 ounces of batter. What I do and many others do is just have multiple molds on hand and keep pouring until you run out of batter. 

Also your stick blender is your enemy with salt bars. Add your scent, if you are using some, to your oils first pulse with your SB then add your lye water and bring it to emulsification then use a whisk or spatula to blend your salt in. Also you want to be as close to room temperature as you can get before you blend everything. 

If you have any questions, I will be available all day today, just send me a private conversation.


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## shunt2011 (May 12, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> No I didn't use any of that but i will definitely try that next time. How much salt per pound would you suggest? Now I came to a slight trace in just a couple minutes. I stick stirred in bursts and hand stirred in between. I stuck with 40% lard but did 30% olive oil, 5% castor and 25 coconut oil. I used Coconut Lime Verbena at 6%. Figured that I would give that a shot. I used 31% water. Now the superfat I am still kind of a little confused on so I left it at 5%. I have heard people minimizing it to 3%. I need to study up some more on all of that. I let the oils and lye get to about 110 degrees. Funny enough I somehow managed to get them to cool at the same temperature lol. Lucky I guess



Your recipe should be perfect.  Should be a good soap.  Some find anything over 20% CO drying.  But you may love it.  I stick around 20% for the most part.

Your salt soap recipe isn't a good one.  Salt Soap requires high CO.  Anywhere between 80-110% with 18-20% SF.      I do 80% CO, 15% Avocado Oil, 5% Castor and 18% SF.  I use 50% weight of oils as salt.   I use a 29% lye concentration as it gives me more time to get the batter into the mold and will allow a swirl even.  I generally do a loaf mold and cut within 3-4 hours.  It is still very warm when cut.   Otherwise use individual molds if you have them and cover them well.


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## Candle Guy (May 12, 2020)

Todd thanks a lot man. So far so good with all of the help. I just did cranberry woods with the same method except I used 1 teaspoon of salt and 33 lye on this one. I also added some dye just to try out. I poured it and it looked great. I had to spritz a little alcohol on the top because I had more bubbles than I wanted. Its covered up now and I will check the temp in a bit to make sure the fragrance oil doesn't mess with the temp. Thanks a lot for the salt recipe. I will have to try that soon. I appreciate the wealth of info and you sharing a recipe


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## Candle Guy (May 12, 2020)

I do have a couple individual molds I bought and used melt and pour in those so I should be set there. I just need to get moving on it soon and see where these recipes land me.


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## Todd Ziegler (May 12, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Todd thanks a lot man. So far so good with all of the help. I just did cranberry woods with the same method except I used 1 teaspoon of salt and 33 lye on this one. I also added some dye just to try out. I poured it and it looked great. I had to spritz a little alcohol on the top because I had more bubbles than I wanted. Its covered up now and I will check the temp in a bit to make sure the fragrance oil doesn't mess with the temp. Thanks a lot for the salt recipe. I will have to try that soon. I appreciate the wealth of info and you sharing a recipe


When you say you added dye do you mean mica or ultramarines? Because dye shouldn't be be used in soap.


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## Ladka (May 12, 2020)

Todd Ziegler said:


> ... you add the water to the lye...


 This must be a typo ?!?


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## Candle Guy (May 12, 2020)

It was dye that I bought for my melt and pour soap from Candle Science. Maybe it's called something else? Lol lemme check


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## Candle Guy (May 12, 2020)

Here is the bottle


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## Todd Ziegler (May 12, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Here is the bottle


Those are meant for melt and pour and some cosmetics. If it works at all it will completely disappear most likely. 

For lye based soap you want to use micas, iron oxides, ultramarines or natural colorants.


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## Candle Guy (May 12, 2020)

Ahhh I did not know that. Thank you. So will it mess up my batch or just fade away like you said?


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## Todd Ziegler (May 12, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Ahhh I did not know that. Thank you. So will it mess up my batch or just fade away like you said?


It should just fade away but who knows you could be the first one that it works for.


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## Candle Guy (May 12, 2020)

Lol well that was an oops moment. It's all good though. I can make another one and forget about the coloring until I get the appropriate products.


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## earlene (May 12, 2020)

Your colorants need to be stable in the high pH environment, which is why not all colorants will work in lye soap.

Make sure your supplier includes information about stability in Cold Process soap.  If it is not addressed on their website (if that is where you are buying), then it's most likely not pH stable for CP or HP soap.  Some suppliers even include pictures of how the colorant looks in CP soap, and that's really nice.


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## Todd Ziegler (May 12, 2020)

earlene said:


> Your colorants need to be stable in the high pH environment, which is why not all colorants will work in lye soap.
> 
> Make sure your supplier includes information about stability in Cold Process soap.  If it is not addressed on their website (if that is where you are buying), then it's most likely not pH stable for CP or HP soap.  Some suppliers even include pictures of how the colorant looks in CP soap, and that's really nice.


This was my next comment.


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## Todd Ziegler (May 12, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Lol well that was an oops moment. It's all good though. I can make another one and forget about the coloring until I get the appropriate products.


Mad micas and just Pigments are my two favorite places to buy mica. Just Pigments has free shipping on $10 or more and they are fast.


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## Arimara (May 12, 2020)

Todd Ziegler said:


> Mad micas and just Pigments are my two favorite places to buy mica. Just Pigments has free shipping on $10 or more and they are fast.


I did not know that about mad micas. I'm only starting to use micas and hoping they won't irritate the heck out my skin.


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## Candle Guy (May 12, 2020)

Update: I called Candle Science and told them what I did lol. They said don't worry it is safe but you may not achieve a vibrant color with the liquid dye I used. So hopefully I will be safe for this mess up lol


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## Todd Ziegler (May 12, 2020)

Arimara said:


> I did not know that about mad micas. I'm only starting to use micas and hoping they won't irritate the heck out my skin.


They should not. Mica is a mineral very similar to talc (talcum powder) but just slightly harder. However it is ground into a powder with the same micron size as talc. Or slightly larger for a glitter. I have only heard of it irritating people who have hyper sensitive skin conditions. Also keep in mind that it will only be in contact with your skin for a very short time before it is washed away. You are more likely to have problems with a oil that you use before the mica would bother you. In nature it can actually rot and become a goopy mess.


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## Todd Ziegler (May 12, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Update: I called Candle Science and told them what I did lol. They said don't worry it is safe but you may not achieve a vibrant color with the liquid dye I used. So hopefully I will be safe for this mess up lol


Yes it is perfectly safe. I use it in my foaming hand wash that I make.


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## Candle Guy (May 12, 2020)

Hey Todd I was looking at the Mad Mica website and they have some cool stuff. So if I purchase Micas for my soap do I need any other additives for it to work?


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## Todd Ziegler (May 12, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Hey Todd I was looking at the Mad Mica website and they have some cool stuff. So if I purchase Micas for my soap do I need any other additives for it to work?


If I am making a single color soap I will hold back an ounce or two of my recipe on the lightest oil to mix the mica in and make sure that there are no clumps. Then add it back to the full batch and mix it in. If I am doing a swirl of one or more colors I will just usually add the color straight into the separate container that my batter is in and mix it with a spatula or whisk.

You can also use a light oil like safflower or sweat almond oil to liquefy your mica. This ounce of oil is in addition to the oil that is used in your recipe. If you keep your SF low then this additional oil will not cause any problems. For example if your recipe calls for 16 ounces of oil, you will end up with a 1/2 or 1 ounce of additional oil but that oil is not figured into your recipe. It is more like an additive that doesn't get figured into the recipe through your soap calculator. 

If you are doing a multiple color swirl your best bet is to just add it in dry or you can pour a little batter into a small bowl mix the mica in and then add it back to the batter that you have separated.

I would also recommend that you find a YouTube video that is demonstrating swirls and or adding color because it is much easier to understand what I am telling you if you actually see how it is done. I am not a big video learner but for this I found the videos helpful. Watch one then ask questions if you have any. Trust me.


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## Arimara (May 12, 2020)

Todd Ziegler said:


> They should not. Mica is a mineral very similar to talc (talcum powder) but just slightly harder. However it is ground into a powder with the same micron size as talc. Or slightly larger for a glitter. I have only heard of it irritating people who have hyper sensitive skin conditions. Also keep in mind that it will only be in contact with your skin for a very short time before it is washed away. You are more likely to have problems with a oil that you use before the mica would bother you. In nature it can actually rot and become a goopy mess.


I'm a bit weird but I rather take precautions. I've been good with scents as far as my skin goes but I've used mostly clays, activated charcoal, and coffee as colorants with no irritation either. Micas is the start of a whole new ball game for me.


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## Candle Guy (May 12, 2020)

I will definitely watch some videos lol. It seems like a lot but I am sure it is not that complicated. Thanks again


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## Todd Ziegler (May 12, 2020)

Arimara said:


> I'm a bit weird but I rather take precautions. I've been good with scents as far as my skin goes but I've used mostly clays, activated charcoal, and coffee as colorants with no irritation either. Micas is the start of a whole new ball game for me.


I understand but if you can tolerate charcoal then mica won't be a problem because charcoal is way harder than mica. Even the finest ground coffee will be 5X harder than mica.


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## TheGecko (May 12, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Hello everybody,
> 
> Ok I know that my soap needs to sit for a month or so but after about 10 days I decided to sample a piece. I kind of just wanted to experiment a bit. So I washed my hands with a piece of the soap I made and it lathered up really well and felt very moisturizing while rinsing. Right after I dried my hands off with a towel, my skin started to feel almost sticky. Then about a minute later the stickiness feeling disappeared and my hands went back to normal. No burn or sting in fact they feel great. So what could be causing this stickiness? Is this normal? Any ideas? Thanks everyone



When I first start using real soap...it felt weird, but it didn’t take long to get used to it and soon I was taking soap to work because my hands would be horribly dry after using commercial soap.


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## earlene (May 13, 2020)

Here is a very detailed video on the use of colorants that you may find useful:


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## Candle Guy (May 13, 2020)

Thanks everyone for the videos and info. Below is how the cranberry woods turned out with the wrong coloring lol.


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## Todd Ziegler (May 13, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> Thanks everyone for the videos and info. Below is how the cranberry woods turned out with the wrong coloring lol.


The main goal is accomplished, good soap.


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## Candle Guy (May 13, 2020)

Thanks Todd


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## Candle Guy (Jul 13, 2020)

So I have finally gotten back into making some more soap. Not bad I suppose. Made mac apple but I didn't have the right mica coloring.


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## Todd Ziegler (Jul 14, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> So I have finally gotten back into making some more soap. Not bad I suppose. Made mac apple but I didn't have the right mica coloring.


Still a good bar of soap and attractive colors.


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## Candle Guy (Jul 15, 2020)

Todd Ziegler said:


> Still a good bar of soap and attractive colors.


Thank you sir


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## penelopejane (Jul 15, 2020)

Candle Guy said:


> So I have finally gotten back into making some more soap. Not bad I suppose. Made mac apple but I didn't have the right mica coloring.


Yes, the colour of micas change in soap. So annoying. Many testers are required if you decide to continue to use them unless the website gives you a sample picture in soap.


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## Candle Guy (Jul 15, 2020)

penelopejane said:


> Yes, the colour of micas change in soap. So annoying. Many testers are required if you decide to continue to use them unless the website gives you a sample picture in soap.


Thanks for the info


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## Todd Ziegler (Jul 15, 2020)

Even when they give you sample pictures of the mica in the soap, you can still get different reactions because of your personal recipe. However it usually stays true to the sample picture.


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