# Getting braver



## Nikolye (Sep 26, 2014)

I've been soaping as a hobby off and on for a couple years, only enough to provide for my family. so a 1lb batch every few months... I'm doing more now, trying to perfect recipes as I may start selling to friends and family per request and I want it to be good... So I'm starting to source better tools and ingredients. I do this because i want to be as natural as possible, local when possible and nothing added that is environmentally unsound(to my knowledge)
#1- Scents
I'm 100% anti fragrance, it gives me headaches and i avoid perfumes in all things i buy..so the idea of scenting soap never occurred to me, but outsiders (not myself and my immediate family) like scents.. From what i've gathered you need a whole heck of alot of essential oils to make a scented soap.  This is my only natural option for scenting i gather.. and is it necessary do you reckon to buy the higher priced oils when we dont fully know whether the goodness is left after sponification? is this one of those cases where a cheaper eo is ok?  

#2 moulds
 i am looking to buy a mold, a good big wooden one.. if i can't find a good one i may pay my brother in law to build one.  but i want it to be good, so i was going to bite the bullet and buy one. i know i can hammer some nails into some wood and get a solid basic square one...but i want something that makes soaping easier (I've been using shoe boxes and cutting with my good butcher knife) i want my bars to look uniform and quality. i will have trouble sourcing most moulds here in N.Z. but any good ones that you know of that fit the bill i'd love to hear or see them.  once i buy a nice good one, if i want to change something about it i'll have my brother create an original one for me in the future.

#3 tools
i currently use my kitchen utensils and bowls and pyrex jugs for soaping. That must come to and end with more soap coming from my kitchen... what tools do you find best? do you mix your lye in glass or plastic, do you use wooden or stainless steel spoons? i've read mixed things in my books and online. as of now i use a stick blender (i bought for soaping, was using my table top mixer) a pyrex jug for mixing my lye, my table top mixer bowl for mixing the oils and lye as its high sided and my rubber baking spatula and my gram baking scale... what tools could you not live without in your soaping? 

#5 clean up
what is your clean up routine.. im trying to master the art of cleaning up. so far i keep one sink full of water with a 1/2 c of vinegar for rinsing and one sink full of hot soapy water, rinse and wash it all,  scrub anything with oily residue down with baking soda(it seems to soak up oil spills best and it usually gets rid of leftover residues) then empty and refill both sinks again and re-do. we dont use our dishwasher but im thinking i may see if it still works just to make clean up after soaping easier.  

im not ready to get into visually pleasing soap yet, im still absolutely clueless how everyone gets it so beautiful. so im starting out with just making the process easier on myself and getting consistently good uniform soap.


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## dixiedragon (Sep 26, 2014)

Scents - EOs - generally, you get what you pay for. That being said, there are some cheaper EO options. For example, many soapers use lavender 40/42 for soaping, and use the more expensive lavenders in lotions and products where it won't get gobbled up.

Are your headaches from artificial fragrances, or from fragrance in general? EOs are pretty potent out of the bottle. 

I make a soap with 5% yellow beeswax, 1 Tbsp of honey per pound of oils, and I add ground cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg from my kitchen spices. This soap has a very soft, pleasant scent from the honey, beeswax and spices.

Something else I do is add coffee grounds to my soap. Coffee alone won't give the soap a coffee scent, but I get a very mild coffee scent from the grounds.


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## Hazel (Sep 26, 2014)

You really don’t need a lot of EOs to scent soap. I only use about .5 oz ppo which would be approximately 31 g for 1 kilogram. I don’t buy “higher” priced EOs but I do buy from reputable suppliers to make sure I am getting oils which aren’t adulterated. (You have to watch this since there are dodgy suppliers who do not sell pure EOs.) Anyway, the EOs can be expensive as an initial purchase but it’s not too bad if you figure out how much you’re paying per gram.

You can also use the hot process method so EOs aren’t exposed to lye. 

As for molds, I think it would be cheaper to make your own but this is just my opinion. You can google “how to build a soap mold” and find a lot of info on it.



#3 tools

Please do not use glass to mix lye. It can shatter. Use the search function and type in “Pyrex”. There are numerous discussions about it. Also, wooden spoons degrade over time from the lye. They can splinter.

I use either stainless steel or PP#5 plastic to mix lye, silicone or stainless steel utensils, heavy plastic bowls or stainless steel pans for blending oils and lye. However, I may use glass for weighing out fragrances or other additives if I’m making several batches and I’ve used all the plastic containers.  

JMO but I think the most important tool is an accurate scales. I wouldn’t want to be without one.

I prefer to scrape out as much as I can and then place the bowl & utensils in a covered container so the residue saponifies. Then I just wash it in the sink the next day…or possibly a couple of days later. 

If I have to wash the bowl right away, I have old, raggedy dish/wash clothes that I use to wipe out the residue. These get tossed in the covered container to saponify and then I’ll throw them in with a load of towels. I think any excess oil in them is so minimal that it won’t hurt the washer. I prefer to use Dawn original detergent to wash bowls and containers since I’ve found it was best to remove the oily residue. I don’t use vinegar as much since I generally use 27% to 33% lye concentrations and rinsing with cool water, then washing with Dawn and warm water removes all residue. However, I use vinegar in the rinse water for towels.

BTW, the covered container I use originally held 35 lbs of cat litter. It has a snap on lid so I can seal it tightly. I wrote “Caustic – Lye” on it in huge letters with a marker – just to make sure it was noticeable to everyone. 

HTH


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## Nikolye (Sep 27, 2014)

dixiedragon said:


> Scents - EOs - generally, you get what you pay for. That being said, there are some cheaper EO options. For example, many soapers use lavender 40/42 for soaping, and use the more expensive lavenders in lotions and products where it won't get gobbled up.
> 
> Are your headaches from artificial fragrances, or from fragrance in general? EOs are pretty potent out of the bottle.
> 
> ...



:smile::smile:
yes it is artificial fragrance that effects me. i love essential oils and haven't found one that bothers me! i buy mid range ones, 100% pure they say, not the $30 for 15ml ones but more like $7.. i will do a bit of homwork before going out and buying them in bulk to make sure im not getting ripped off. not sure how to tell if they say their product is pure you just hope they are telling the truth! i just read on here when i was searching the topic that companys get busted making false claims... but i guess thats when they act like they are a medicine. anyway, another topic entirely.:crazy:

I have read of other people using beeswax and honey! i have used it once and it seeped out! that was in the early days when i was tossing things in all willy nilly. i will have to give it a go again... and spices. yes, that is up my ally, i will most certainly try and do that! i can smell it now!

i love the coffee idea too.. i will eventually go that route, i was talking to a friend about putting coffee grounds in soap as a exfoliation but seems a bit above my know how still. baby steps! i made a buttermilk soap awhile back and i think i knew to little to be messing with milk. so im taking steps back.

i truly appreciate your input. thank you


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## Nikolye (Sep 27, 2014)

Hazel said:


> You really don’t need a lot of EOs to scent soap. I only use about .5 oz ppo which would be approximately 31 g for 1 kilogram. I don’t buy “higher” priced EOs but I do buy from reputable suppliers to make sure I am getting oils which aren’t adulterated. (You have to watch this since there are dodgy suppliers who do not sell pure EOs.) Anyway, the EOs can be expensive as an initial purchase but it’s not too bad if you figure out how much you’re paying per gram.
> 
> You can also use the hot process method so EOs aren’t exposed to lye.
> 
> ...



so glass with lye! i actually was taught to use pyrex by the lady who first turned me onto soaping, she was amateur as well, so the blind leading the blind i guess.  but after reading on here awhile i found that it does in fact explode, so i thought i would throw that in there! thank you, i will discontinue the method and go out and buy a good metal jug... and i dont use spoons much but i should know better then to use wood, of course it will eventually break down and splinter. i like the big container method! i knew someone would have a few tricks up their sleeves regarding clean up!  and if i do make a big solid loaf mold, how do you cut the soap uniform? do you take it out first then use a cutter? how does the big commercial ones work with the bolts on the sides, it looks as if there is a place to slide the cutter through and cut each bar? im trying to figure out the science of the molds, as i say i want uniform soap and if im going to make my own mould i want it to be good!  
thanks!


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## cmzaha (Sep 27, 2014)

I would not put soaping equipment in the dishwasher. Just to much oil and fragrance, even if it is eo's and the oils used in soaping, I am sure, will eventually coat your dishwasher


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## Hazel (Sep 27, 2014)

When I began, I also used Pyrex and then read on this forum about the possibility of shattering. I’m glad I found out before I used it too many times. BTW, there are still people who are considered authorities on soapmaking who use Pyrex or glass. I’ve seen them using Pyrex/glass in videos and in pictures on their blogs. That’s why I started to use it.  So, it’s understandable why many people use it. There are also people who’ve read the discussions about shattering but scoff at the possibility and still use it. It is possible a Pyrex cup may be used and never shatter. It’s a choice and only you can decide if the risk is worth it. I can only pass on the info other people have written about it and tell you what I do. I choose not to use Pyrex since there are alternatives and I'd rather be safe.

  A lot of people have mentioned setting utensils aside to saponify before washing or using clothes for wiping. That’s how I learned to do it.   I figured out the covered container because I had emptied the litter out and thought “hmm…” I had been worried about the possibility of one of the cats jumping on the counter and licking the raw soap. (He was a rascal. The others didn’t jump on the counters.) Anyway, this solved the problem. 

  I finally broke down and bought a cutter from Bud Haffner on Etsy. Before that, I couldn’t ever get straight, uniform cuts. I take the loaf out of the mold, place it in the cutter and ka-chunk! Evenly cut bars. :grin:

  Just a recommendation – get a cutter which allows a longer loaf to be inserted for cutting. I wish I had but I didn’t think I’d be cutting longer than 8” loaves. Search for images of soap cutters and you’ll see what I mean. I’m sure your brother could build you one for less than you could buy it. All you need is the wood and pegs and stainless steel wire. I think the guitar strings normally used are E and the gauge size I’ve seen mentioned are about 20 or 22. Even though guitar strings are tempered to be harder, you could probably use any SS wire with these gauges. Some people use cheese cutters to cut soap so I know other types of wire will work.


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## LBussy (Sep 27, 2014)

dixiedragon said:


> I make a soap with 5% yellow beeswax, 1 Tbsp of honey per pound of oils, and I add ground cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg from my kitchen spices. This soap has a very soft, pleasant scent from the honey, beeswax and spices.


It sounds like a nice combination.  Forgive me for questioning you though but I thought that cinnamon was a no-no in soap?


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## Susie (Sep 27, 2014)

I use a cheap plastic miter box I bought from Amazon.  Cost me all of $14.  I marked the 1 inch measurement in Sharpie right on the box so I can line up the end of the loaf.  Then I use a bench scraper like you use in baking or a wavy potato cutter right through the straight slit.  

I use cinnamon EOs in lots of soaps.  In moderation.  Not more than 0.3 oz PPO.  Usually in combination with other EOs.


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## Hazel (Sep 27, 2014)

Nikolye said:


> I have read of other people using beeswax and honey! i have used it once and it seeped out!
> 
> i love the coffee idea too.. i will eventually go that route, i was talking to a friend about putting coffee grounds in soap as a exfoliation but seems a bit above my know how still. baby steps! i made a buttermilk soap awhile back and i think i knew to little to be messing with milk



Have you tried dissolving the honey in water? This has worked for me. I think it was IrishLass which suggested this tip.

Coffee grounds can be really abrasive so you want to make sure to grind them very fine. Ask me how I know. :roll: It's also very easy to add coffee grounds. I blend until I get a thicker trace before adding the grounds. This helps to keep them evenly suspended. 

What was the problem with the buttermilk?

I don't know where you could buy EOs in New Zealand. Perhaps someone else knows of reputable suppliers and will be able to answer.


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## Nikolye (Sep 27, 2014)

Hazel said:


> Have you tried dissolving the honey in water? This has worked for me. I think it was IrishLass which suggested this tip.
> 
> Coffee grounds can be really abrasive so you want to make sure to grind them very fine. Ask me how I know. :roll: It's also very easy to add coffee grounds. I blend until I get a thicker trace before adding the grounds. This helps to keep them evenly suspended.
> 
> ...



buttermilk..ha. it turned out ok, i think while attempting not to scold the milk i may of brought the temperature down to low... it was also 80% olive oil.. i was up till 3am trying to get it to trace, eventually i heated it up in a crock pot and it traced.  it turned out ok, i use it on my face or grate it and use it in home made baby bath and shampoo. but its not as luxurious as i had thought it would be. so im taking a few steps back and trying to get the process, tools and recipes down before i get into fancy.


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## Hazel (Sep 28, 2014)

Ah! Yes, olive can take _*forever *_to trace.


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## jade-15 (Sep 28, 2014)

#1 Scents
Depends on what you mean by "cheaper" EOs...
I wouldn't use (or trust) the ones from the dollar store.
The 15mL bottles from the chemist etc. I'm sure are pure enough but way too expensive, similar to doterra & young living.
I buy mine from either soap suppliers or an essential oil place that offers multiple sizes.
I find the expense comes in when I want to make different blends/mixes, but if you search on here there are many suggested lists of EOs to start off with.  But if you just want a plain lavendar scented soap or eucalyptus or something like that, it won't be that expensive at all.

#2 Moulds
I don't know about NZ... but I know Aussie Soap Supplies does ship there.  Not sure if Nizzy's Soap Moulds do.
http://nizzymoulds.com/
http://aussiesoapsupplies.com.au/

#3 Tools
I use silicone spoons that I get from Kmart for $2.  I have old saucepans that I use for mixing, and a pyrex jug for my lye - I have read all the precautions etc on here... Apparently depends on when the pyrex was made? Anyway I sit the jug in the sink to do my mixing, partly cause that gets good ventilation but also just in case it does shatter, it will already be in the sink.

#5 clean up...
I don't know.  It's always a mess haha.


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## LBussy (Sep 28, 2014)

Hazel said:


> Ah! Yes, olive can take _*forever *_to trace.


I've made a couple batches of castile now and the OO has traced within a minute or two .... I keep hearing folks say it takes forever but if it never happens to me I believe it never will.  I'm sure that someday I'll have a rude shock.

What conditions lead to it not tracing?


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## Susie (Sep 28, 2014)

Buttermilk is fat free.  It is not going to bring any conditioning to the soap.


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## Hazel (Sep 28, 2014)

The buttermilk I buy does have fat; although it is lower than the fat content of other milks. Also, I have found buttermilk soap more conditioning for my skin (dry & sensitive) than the same recipe made with water. I don't know if this has anything to do with the lactic acid in it because I don't know how it reacts with lye. Everyone is different so other people may not care for buttermilk in soap.

Buttermilk is one of my favorite ingredients because I've found it boosts lather and the lather is creamier and denser with lots of smaller bubbles. The boost in the lather may have something to do with the sugar content. People who use a higher percentage of coconut may not notice a difference. I started making buttermilk soap in the beginning because I was experimenting with varied milk products. I liked it best and I've gotten great feedback on it. 

If you want buttermilk with a higher fat content, you can make acidified buttermilk with other milk. I haven't gotten around to trying it. One of these days...

Here's the link if anyone is interested in trying it. 

http://www.thekitchn.com/how-to-mak...titute-cooking-lessons-from-the-kitchn-185757


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## Susie (Sep 28, 2014)

Used lemon juice to make "buttermilk" many times in cooking, never occurred to me to try it for soaping.  Learn something new every day.  Thanks!


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## marilynmac (Sep 28, 2014)

Nikolye said:


> #1- Scents
> I'm 100% anti fragrance, it gives me headaches and i avoid perfumes in all things i buy.....
> #5 clean up
> what is your clean up routine.. im trying to master the art of cleaning up. so far i keep one sink full of water with a 1/2 c of vinegar for rinsing ...



1. I'm with you on the scents.  I cannot enter any stores that sell potpouri , or any of the grocery stores that sell those awful pine cones in december.  I find I do like some EO scents.  Citrus, if it's good and smells like cut citrus instead of lifesavers.  Patchouli and sandalwood in tiny quantities.

2.  *Don't use vinegar* to rinse equipment that has lye on it.  You know that reaction you get when you mix water+Lye?  You get a similar but stronger reaction when you mix vinegar+Lye.  Way too much difference in pH with vinegar.  Water will neutralize it.


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## sagehill (Sep 28, 2014)

Here are some thoughts...

1) Can't remember if this was mentioned, but a stick-blender is a very good friend in getting olive oils to trace.  I've been playing with peanut oil lately and have discovered it's also a slow tracer. 

2) I make a Honey-Chamomile Castile with very strong, very dark chamomile tea for the liquid, diluting the honey with some of the tea, plus I mix in a portion of cham-tea petals with the oils.  The soap has a beautiful gold color and a soft, barely-there honey/chamomile scent that my all-natural customers just love. A soft, naturally scented soap is delightful.

3) Buttermilk is my current favorite liquid for lye, now that I no longer raise dairy goats.  I love it for the lactic acid as well as the protein.  I freeze it in ice cube trays. Kefir works too!

4) A cheap, perpetual way to make full-fat buttermilk (or kefir, if you can get the grains) is to fill a pint/quart/gallon jar with 4% milk and add 1/4, 1/2 or 1 cup of buttermilk (or kefir grains). Let sit on the counter until thick and sassy like buttermilk, 12-24 hours, then fridge it and use as needed.  When your buttermilk gets low, refill the container with more milk and let culture again. You'll never need to buy buttermilk again. Unless you run out completely, of course. 

Hope this helps!
Jenny
http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/


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## dixiedragon (Sep 28, 2014)

LBussy said:


> It sounds like a nice combination.  Forgive me for questioning you though but I thought that cinnamon was a no-no in soap?



I know that some people don't use it because it can be an irritant. I've never had a problem with it. I don't sell, so when I give my soap away, I ask people if they have very sensitive skin, and if they do, I advise them to use it on their hands first, to make sure it doesn't irritate.

My aunt has very sensitive skin, and she's used my cinnamon soaps with no problem.

I kind of figure that, to the wrong person, ANYTHING can be an irritant.


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## dixiedragon (Sep 28, 2014)

I put my honey in with my oils. However, I've noticed that it doesn't mix with the oils. If I stir it up, it will quickly sink to the bottom and separate. So when I use honey in soap, I use the stick blender and get the honey well blended with the oils just before I add the lye water.


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## sagehill (Sep 28, 2014)

Try diluting the honey first with some reserved water for the lye.

Or you can dissolve your honey in the water before adding lye, as was discussed recently:
http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=4737http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/


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## dixiedragon (Sep 28, 2014)

My favorite source for EOs is Camden Grey. They have much better prices than Brambleberry and other places that specialize more in FOs.


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## dillsandwitch (Sep 29, 2014)

I got some Silicone loaf moulds off of eBay for $8 each. I found they were to flimsy and bowed when filled so I got a couple pieces of trimming wood from Bunnings and hot glued a removable box for them. The wood cost $8 as well.


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## Nikolye (Oct 6, 2014)

LBussy said:


> I've made a couple batches of castile now and the OO has traced within a minute or two .... I keep hearing folks say it takes forever but if it never happens to me I believe it never will.  I'm sure that someday I'll have a rude shock.
> 
> What conditions lead to it not tracing?



i believe the recipe i used advised me to chill it down to not scold the buttermilk i had in the recipe, but i think i chilled it down to much... when i put it in a heat source it finally started to trace.


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## Nikolye (Oct 6, 2014)

marilynmac said:


> 1. I'm with you on the scents.  I cannot enter any stores that sell potpouri , or any of the grocery stores that sell those awful pine cones in december.  I find I do like some EO scents.  Citrus, if it's good and smells like cut citrus instead of lifesavers.  Patchouli and sandalwood in tiny quantities.
> 
> 2.  *Don't use vinegar* to rinse equipment that has lye on it.  You know that reaction you get when you mix water+Lye?  You get a similar but stronger reaction when you mix vinegar+Lye.  Way too much difference in pH with vinegar.  Water will neutralize it.



yeah i know the reaction and i know it results in a then neutralized mess... but water does as well without the reaction? i've always thought vinegar was the "keep close by" item when soaping for messes...?  i've said it once and i'll say it a million times more. my soap obsession has left me wishing i paid more attention in science class.


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## Nikolye (Oct 6, 2014)

Hazel said:


> Have you tried dissolving the honey in water? This has worked for me. I think it was IrishLass which suggested this tip.
> 
> Coffee grounds can be really abrasive so you want to make sure to grind them very fine. Ask me how I know. :roll: It's also very easy to add coffee grounds. I blend until I get a thicker trace before adding the grounds. This helps to keep them evenly suspended.
> 
> ...



The honey tip, do you dissolve it with the lye water? or keep a tad of water/honey out and mix in with lyewater and oils at once? wondering if you keep it separate till you have to combine to not destroy it entirely...hmm.. the coffee grounds, did you grind old grounds or fresh ones? i was thinking of picking up used ones from the cafe up the road as we we (shamfully) drink instant at home, funny thing here in n.z. you either have a espresso machine, an old school plunger(manual filter device) or drink instant. i need to get a plunger. i remember when i first moved to australia years ago as soon as the lady at the shop heard my accent she directed me to the one single "filter" coffee machine they sold.  i left with a espresso machine. i miss it! from one extreme to the next.. how does one go from espresso to instant, i have no idea.

but anyway, maybe stupid questions but yes,, when to add the honey and how much per lbs/kg..(1T pp was mentioned) and fresh grounds id imagine? i could buy a pack just for soap... i was actually thinking of using coffee as my water and grounds as well....


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## Nikolye (Oct 6, 2014)

sagehill said:


> Try diluting the honey first with some reserved water for the lye.
> 
> Or you can dissolve your honey in the water before adding lye, as was discussed recently:
> http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=4737http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/



that link takes me somewhere else.. i am interested in what to do with my honey tho and how much to add. dissolving it in water seems to be what most people are saying.


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## Nikolye (Oct 6, 2014)

dixiedragon said:


> I know that some people don't use it because it can be an irritant. I've never had a problem with it. I don't sell, so when I give my soap away, I ask people if they have very sensitive skin, and if they do, I advise them to use it on their hands first, to make sure it doesn't irritate.
> 
> My aunt has very sensitive skin, and she's used my cinnamon soaps with no problem.
> 
> I kind of figure that, to the wrong person, ANYTHING can be an irritant.



how much cinnamon do you use? if you dont mind me asking.  im curious as to how much spice from the cabinet i would need to use for it to be noticeable without being irritating.


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## sagehill (Oct 6, 2014)

Nikolye said:


> that link takes me somewhere else.. i am interested in what to do with my honey tho and how much to add. dissolving it in water seems to be what most people are saying.


Whooops, so sorry... I posted the wrong link. Try this one: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=47375


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## dixiedragon (Oct 6, 2014)

Nikolye said:


> how much cinnamon do you use? if you dont mind me asking. im curious as to how much spice from the cabinet i would need to use for it to be noticeable without being irritating.


 
Sorry, I don't have a very precise answer. I add it until it smells nice and looks pleasingly speckled to me.


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## Nikolye (Oct 6, 2014)

sagehill said:


> Whooops, so sorry... I posted the wrong link. Try this one: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=47375



Awesome, thank you!!:clap:


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## Nikolye (Oct 6, 2014)

dixiedragon said:


> Sorry, I don't have a very precise answer. I add it until it smells nice and looks pleasingly speckled to me.



No worries, I only do small batches with anything new. Thank you!


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## Nikolye (Oct 6, 2014)

dixiedragon said:


> Sorry, I don't have a very precise answer. I add it until it smells nice and looks pleasingly speckled to me.



No worries! I'll give it a go in a small batch.


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## Hazel (Oct 6, 2014)

Nikolye said:


> but anyway, maybe stupid questions but yes,, when to add the honey and how much per lbs/kg..(1T pp was mentioned) and fresh grounds id imagine? i could buy a pack just for soap... i was actually thinking of using coffee as my water and grounds as well....



There aren't any stupid questions. You're learning something new and it's good to research and ask than to jump in and possibly waste supplies. 

I use approximately 1 T honey ppo; although sometimes it may be a little less. (Tip: put a little oil from the batch on the spoon so the honey doesn't stick to it.) I'm a little paranoid when I add sugar, honey or syrup. I remove enough of the water which I will use for the lye , warm it and then dissolve the sugary goodness in it. Then I'll add this into the batch either before or after I add the lye mixture. I'm not _*that *_persnickety when it comes to adding honey or whatever.  This is only what I do. Other people do it differently so you'll want to pick which tip works best for you. 

Also, honey can heat up a loaf so you'll want to keep an eye on it if you're using a FO that gets hot.

As for coffee grounds, I save the grounds from a pot of coffee, spread them on a plate, let dry and then grind. Again, it's just what I do. It's not the only way. I'd try the grounds from the cafe just to see if you like them in your soap. Some people don't like them. If you do, then I'd keep getting them from the cafe as long as they were willing to give them. Free is good. It helps to reduce your cost for the soap. You could take some soap to them after it's cured as a 'thank you' gift for their generosity. You might even try simmering the grounds in water to see if you can get more coffee out of them for the liquid. I don't know if it will work but it's worth trying once.

Just a suggestion but you may want to go lightly on the grounds since they can be scratchy. I wasn't told this when I made my first soap with coffee grounds and I about screamed when I tried to use it. Yes, sadly I am a wuss. I don't know what amount to recommend but maybe just try a tablespoon or two ppo for the first time. You can always add more for the next batch if you don't think it's enough.

I haven't used coffee as the liquid but only because I prefer to drink it. I keep saying one of these days but then...


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## marilynmac (Oct 6, 2014)

Nikolye said:


> yeah i know the reaction and i know it results in a then neutralized mess... but water does as well without the reaction? i've always thought vinegar was the "keep close by" item when soaping for messes...?  i've said it once and i'll say it a million times more. my soap obsession has left me wishing i paid more attention in science class.



lye+vinegar makes much heat.  Here is a quick explanation: 

http://www.soapalooza.com/blog/2014/01/how-to-handle-a-lye-spill/


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## Nikolye (Oct 7, 2014)

Hazel said:


> There aren't any stupid questions. You're learning something new and it's good to research and ask than to jump in and possibly waste supplies.
> 
> I use approximately 1 T honey ppo; although sometimes it may be a little less. (Tip: put a little oil from the batch on the spoon so the honey doesn't stick to it.) I'm a little paranoid when I add sugar, honey or syrup. I remove enough of the water which I will use for the lye , warm it and then dissolve the sugary goodness in it. Then I'll add this into the batch either before or after I add the lye mixture. I'm not _*that *_persnickety when it comes to adding honey or whatever.  This is only what I do. Other people do it differently so you'll want to pick which tip works best for you.
> 
> ...



well shoot, you seem pretty clued on, i think i will start decorating/scenting with kitchen items like honey, coffee, cinnamon, tea...  until at least i get a handle on this Scent thing...do you by any chance have any knowledge on fixatives and anchors for Eo's? im about to make a purchase and i'm pretty confused on that area... im searching for threads but i haven't come up with much so far... seems other oils or clays are used to stick scent.


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## Hazel (Oct 7, 2014)

Nikolye said:


> fixatives and anchors for Eo's? im about to make a purchase and i'm pretty confused on that area... im searching for threads but i haven't come up with much so far... seems other oils or clays are used to stick scent.



There are quite a few threads about anchoring EOs. It just takes awhile to browse through the EO section. You could browse the EO swap review thread. People discussed what they used for anchors. http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=33078

Not really clued in because I don't use a lot of EOs and I tend to use ones which I know perform well in CP. Sometimes I just make a batch by hot process so I can add EOs after saponification. That's probably the easiest way but the soap is rougher looking than CP. I've heard clay, castor oil and some people mentioned using litsea cubea and patchouli. I don't think cornstarch is all that great as an anchor but just because I didn't like it,  doesn't mean you wouldn't like it. I prefer to use 15 fold orange essential oil because it sticks really well. I couldn't get some when I purchased again and got the 5 fold instead.  But I'm sure it will work find. Anyway, I recommend using 5 fold and up citrus EOs because they stick better. I've read the chemical (or chemicals) which cause photosensitivity is taken out because of the processing.


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## KatieShephard (Oct 7, 2014)

marilynmac said:


> lye+vinegar makes much heat.  Here is a quick explanation:
> 
> http://www.soapalooza.com/blog/2014/01/how-to-handle-a-lye-spill/



Thank you for this link Marilyn! Best explanation I've read.


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## sugar_soap (Oct 24, 2014)

So would using instant coffee be a sin? I'd like to try a coffee soap but every recipe I've seen uses brewed coffee or equivalent.


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## navigator9 (Oct 24, 2014)

Here's my two cents worth. #1 Scents - I use fragrance oils, not essential oils, so I can't help you much with those, but it's not actually necessary to scent your soaps to sell . I'm thinking of the very successful Rocky Top Soap company for one. There are many people who like all natural, unscented soaps.  And you ask, "and is it necessary do you reckon to buy the higher priced oils when we dont fully know whether the goodness is left after sponification?" I'm guessing you're referring to the soaping oils there. IMHO, no, it's not necessary to use luxury oils to make a fabulous bar of soap. It's all in the recipe, the proportions. I use only olive, palm and coconut in my basic bars, which are the majority of what I sell, and my customers love them. I did a blind test with a variety of recipes, and the testers loved the bar with some avocado oil in it, so I've added that one to my line of soaps. But that's about as luxurious as I get.

#2 Molds - I buy silicone liners, but I make my own wooden molds. It just doesn't pay to buy them, they're really easy to make. I'm sure if you google, you'll find lots of tutorials out there. And if you're lining your molds with freezer paper, you can make the molds to any custom size you like!

#3 Tools - I use a stainless steel saucepan for my lye, and a stainless steel stock pot for soaping. My spoons and spatula are plastic. You can find most of these items at thrift and dollar stores, no need to spend a lot of money. 

#5 Clean up - I scrape every little bit out of the pot with my spatula, no sense in leaving any behind. Then I wipe off the stick blender, spoons and spatula with a paper towel. I leave all the utensils in the soap pot over night, and wash with hot water and dish soap the following day.

And as far as visually pleasing soap goes, many people actually find that wholesome, well-made, handmade soap IS BEAUTIFUL!!! Best of luck to you!


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## LBussy (Oct 24, 2014)

sugar_soap said:


> So would using instant coffee be a sin? I'd like to try a coffee soap but every recipe I've seen uses brewed coffee or equivalent.


I won;t turn you in.


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## judymoody (Oct 24, 2014)

LBussy said:


> I won;t turn you in.



Just make sure you dissolve it well first.  If it's in granules, it will melt out the first time the finished soap hits water.  Don't ask me how I know.


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## judymoody (Oct 24, 2014)

To the OP, essential oils, if bought on line from soap suppliers, can be as economical as fragrance oils.  Try New Directions Aromatics, which I believe has a branch either in Australia or NZ.  There are many that can be purchased for USD $2/30 grams or less if you buy at least 100 grams at a time.  Some economical examples include lavender 40/42, cedarwood, tea tree, anise, peppermint, rosemary, eucalyptus, lemongrass and litsea cubeba all stick pretty well when used at 3% of your soaping oils weight (total weight for a blend).  For a 1000 gram batch that would be 30 grams.  I prefer EO over FO and for me, scent will last 6 months to a year.


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## Hazel (Oct 24, 2014)

sugar_soap said:


> So would using instant coffee be a sin?



Using it - no. 

Drinking it - yes.


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## sugar_soap (Oct 27, 2014)

> Just make sure you dissolve it well first. If it's in granules, it will melt out the first time the finished soap hits water. Don't ask me how I know.



hehe that's good to know thanks 



> Using it - no.
> 
> Drinking it - yes.



You'd definitely find me guilty then


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