# Natural fixtators for lye soap



## Piero (Jun 5, 2020)

Hello lovely people,
With my soap formulas I currently use essential oils but I can't seem to make the aroma stay. In the beggining the aroma is really strong when using it, but it I leave the soap curing for a long period of time (3 months or more) the aroma is not there. I know that comercial fragances uses fixatives like benzyl benzoate to avoid this, but I was wondering if there is any natural/organic option to achieve this in my formulas? Thank you guys!


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## artemis (Jun 5, 2020)

If you search the forum for "EO usage" you will find a lot of useful information written about this topic.


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## Zany_in_CO (Jun 5, 2020)

Source: _*http://www.pallasathenesoap.com/articles/EssenOil.pdf*_

TIPS TO GIVE YOUR EOs MORE STAYING POWER 

Cure cold process soap 4 weeks.
Fleeting scent falls to half-strength after about 24 weeks.
Don’t make soap until it is needed.
Once made and cured, SELL it or USE it as soon as possible.
Add EOs as the last step before pouring the formula into molds.

The “MELT-AND-POUR” (M & P) process is the kindest to EOs. 
Use15 drops of EOs per 1 pound of melted soap. 
Add immediately before pouring into molds.

COLD PROCESS (CP) 
Use 1.5 teaspoons of EOs per 1 pound of soap.
If a blend does not hold up well, use more.
Store each scent in a different cardboard box, to reinforce the aroma. 
Cotton balls soaked in the scent helps to perpetuate the fragrance.

COMBINE THE EOs WITH A FIXATIVE
Bentonite clay, castor oil, glycerin, oat flour, pomace olive oil 
Unsaponifiables (or slow to saponify) are the most effective fixative.
Mix EOs with the fixative and store in an airtight container.
Add as the last step before pouring the CP soap into the mold.
Cover batch with plastic Saran Wrap to impede dissipation. 

BLEND TWO OR MORE EOs TO IMPROVE THE DURATION OF SCENT.
EOs’ scents may generally be categorized on aromatherapy sites as *top* (high), *middle*, or *base* (low) notes. Top notes (such as citrus) generally tend to be more fleeting than middle or base notes. Base notes tend to have more staying power. A blend of top, middle, and base notes has the most staying potential. 

Anchor citrus EOs with litsea cubeba.
Anchor other blends with balsam, benzoin, patchouli and anise.

10% benzoin or patchouli
20% other base notes
30% middle notes
40% top notes.


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## Zany_in_CO (Jun 5, 2020)

Piero said:


> With my soap formulas I currently use essential oils but I can't seem to make the aroma stay. In the beggining the aroma is really strong when using it, but it I leave the soap curing for a long period of time (3 months or more) the aroma is not there. I know that comercial fragrances uses fixatives like benzyl benzoate to avoid this, but I was wondering if there is anynatural/organic option to achieve this in my formulas?


Hi Piero and welcome to the Forum!
What you're experiencing is typical of using EOs to fragrance soap. I used them for 4 years when I first started soaping because, like you, I wanted to make "all natural" bath and body products. When I realized the scent didn't stick around for very long I switched to FOs. Those were either a "hit" or a "miss".

Now I'm finding that combining the best of both worlds is the way to go. For example: lavender EO with lavender FO. WSP has over 100  *EO & FO Blends*. Some have more EOs in them than others. My favorite one is *Bladderwrack*. I have one soap on the shelf next to my front door that is over 2 years old and still giving off a nice scent.

HTH (Hope This Helps!)


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## szaza (Jun 8, 2020)

In my experience, the most important thing to reduce fading is to reduce air flow after the initial 4-6 weeks cure (packaging your soaps and storing them in an airtight container). Also.. stay away from citrus that's not litsea or lemongrass


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## AliOop (Jun 10, 2020)

Zany_in_CO said:


> COLD PROCESS (CP)
> Use 1.5 teaspoons of EOs per 1 pound of soap.
> If a blend does not hold up well, use more.


@Zany_in_CO I like all of the suggestions from that article except the one quoted above. 

For skin safety, EO should always be measured by weight, not by volume, yes? 

And certain EOs will be very harmful to skin if used at the rate of 1.5 tsp per pound of soap; I'm thinking specifically of cinnamon, clove, anise, thyme, and other "hot" oils. 

The OP will want to use an EO calculator or the supplier's MSDS to determine safe usage rates. I seem to recall that you have a favorite EO calculator that you've mentioned before; perhaps you could provide the link to that again? Thank you!


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## Zany_in_CO (Jun 10, 2020)

AliOop said:


> For skin safety, EO should always be measured by weight, not by volume, yes?


Yes. Good Catch! Sometimes I forget who I'm talking to.   Some of us "old timers" use volume measure because it's easier.  Using a suppliers EO calc allows for volume measure as well as weight.


AliOop said:


> And certain EOs will be very harmful to skin if used at the rate of 1.5 tsp per pound of soap; I'm thinking specifically of cinnamon, clove, anise, thyme, and other "hot" oils.


Absolutely. You are SO correct. My bad. (Hangs head in shame.)


AliOop said:


> The OP will want to use an EO calculator or the supplier's MSDS to determine safe usage rates.


I agree.


AliOop said:


> I seem to recall that you have a favorite EO calculator that you've mentioned before; perhaps you could provide the link to that again? Thank you!


I like and use MMS Fragrance Calc (Majestic Mountain Sage) for both EOs and FOs. 

*https://www.the-sage.com/fragcalc/*

You're welcome!


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## Piero (Jun 19, 2020)

Zany_in_CO said:


> COMBINE THE EOs WITH A FIXATIVE
> Bentonite clay, castor oil, glycerin, oat flour, pomace olive oil
> Unsaponifiables (or slow to saponify) are the most effective fixative.
> Mix EOs with the fixative and store in an airtight container.
> ...



I like this idea, but how should I do this. Is only blending the EO with this ingredients and adding at the end would be enough? For example, I know that Bentonite is a powder, how will this affect the final product?


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## SeaSuds (Jun 19, 2020)

Piero are you in Padova, Italy? If so then under EU guidelines you can only use up to 3% essential oils in your soap and as said above research very carefully as some oils have a maximum use which is less than this.  An EO calculator is a great tool! These are good safety guidelines even if you plan just to give your soap to friends and family.   If you decide to sell in the future you may have problems with the safety assessments if you mix fragrance oils and essential oils in one recipe.

As far as getting essential oils to stick, I found this thread very helpful: Longest lasting EOs ... particularly post 32 which provides a link to some good scientific reading!


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## Zany_in_CO (Jun 19, 2020)

Piero said:


> I like this idea, but how should I do this. Is only blending the EO with this ingredients and adding at the end would be enough? For example, I know that Bentonite is a powder, how will this affect the final product?


I like to add fragrace and any dry additive to the warm oils before adding the lye solution. Stir for one full minute to get everything thoroughly incorporated. If allowed to sit for a while before combining, give it another full minute before combining. If adding Bentonite or any other clay, remember to use full water, i.e., do not discount water, because clay is highly absorbent and that can affect your final product.


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