# Shrinkwrap Tips and Tricks?



## Paintguru (Feb 16, 2014)

Okay, clearly I am either clueless, or there is some secret voodoo that goes on with shrink wrapping.  I did try watching some videos on Youtube, but those weren't very helpful.  I got a roll of the 75 gauge perforated from National Shrinkwrap and one of those standard blue impulse sealers.  First, when I try to use the impulse sealer, I can never get a clean separation between the film sides.  Either I get nothing or I get melty/stringy crap between the two pieces that were just sealed.  On the videos, the people seem to get quick, perfect separation.  Second, are there any tips on how much bigger the final "bag" needs to be than the bar to get nice, clean shrinkage?  Any other tipcs would be appreciated too, as the time it takes and the final look that I'm getting makes this shrink wrapping unimpressive at best.


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## DeeAnna (Feb 17, 2014)

bump! I'm curious too....


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## jblaney (Feb 17, 2014)

I have the shrink wrap system with the wand.   You may want to call Art at National Shrinkwrap and ask him if his film is compatible with your sealer.   I did not see that he sells that kind of sealer, but maybe I didn't look hard enough.   I have never had any of the shrinkwrap get stringy at all, so maybe your sealer is too hot.   Just a thought.


Ooops!   I just checked and he does sell the impulse sealer.   I'm not sure what the problem is then.  Sorry.


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## DeeAnna (Feb 17, 2014)

Okay, I'll share what I know. I've been using pre-made shrink bags from Papermart; I don't use the National Shrinkwrap system. 

I set the timer for the impulse sealer so the sealed line is completely melted by the time the sealer clicks off. To seal, I insert the open edge of the bag into the sealer and push the sealer's bar down to clamp the bag in place. I try to get the bar as close to the soap as I can without marking up the soap. Push down harder to start the heat cycle.

When the impulse sealer clicked off, I was originally just letting go of the sealer bar and pulling the melted seam apart. I kept getting rough stringy edges like what I think you're getting.

Muttered to myself and messed around with it for awhile. I finally figured out this trick -- Right after the sealer clicks off, I keep holding the sealer bar down and gently pull the soap bag away from the sealer bar. I get some short frizzy edges along the seal when I do that, but not too bad. When I use my heat gun to shrink the bag to the soap, the frizzy bits just shrink into a smooth seam. The frizzies  just disappear.

Don't have a clue if this will help you or if it even applies to your system, but here ya go. If you need pics, let me know -- not sure if my words are making any sense.

What I'm still having trouble with is getting a really smooth sleek look to the bag's plastic when I shrink it. I dislike the bubbly look that I sometimes get. I wish I knew what was different when I get a nice smooth shrink vs. a bubbly shrink. Still can't figure that out!


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## Paintguru (Feb 17, 2014)

Actually, I think I can help with your bubbly issue (and your comments do help a bit with the stringies).  Allegedly, if you perforate your film, as the bag shrinks, the air bubbles will be pushed out and it will give a smooth finish.  This is why many folks get perforated films (I did).  I'll try your trick and see what happens.  I should have just done the bags from papermart like you did.


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## jenneelk (Feb 17, 2014)

I've used the wand for the last 2 years or so for soaps and other items. 
I know with the wand I can get strings of a sort if I pull the wrap away before it's totally sealed. It almost like a warm melt and it causes it to tear a bit.


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## ca_soap (Feb 28, 2014)

I just ordered a shrink wrap system from National Shrinkwrap.  I ordered the system with the wand and I can't say enough about how easy and flawlessly it works.  So far I have been using the 60 gauge polyolefin perforated and I have had no problems with stringies frizzies or partial seals.  I had professional looking packaging from the very first bar I sealed.


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## Paintguru (Mar 1, 2014)

ca_soap said:


> I just ordered a shrink wrap system from National Shrinkwrap.  I ordered the system with the wand and I can't say enough about how easy and flawlessly it works.  So far I have been using the 60 gauge polyolefin perforated and I have had no problems with stringies frizzies or partial seals.  I had professional looking packaging from the very first bar I sealed.



Ugh, not really itching to spend $120 on a wand.  Good to know it works well though.


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## cmzaha (Mar 1, 2014)

I also use the bags from papermart. I just seal with my impulse sealer at the temp to make a good seal then cut it off with scissors and snip off a tiny corner so it it does not expand with the heat gun, it is an extra step but goes very quickly. I then stack up my soap in rows and go over with the heat gun to initially get the outside edges. I used to use the sealer hot enough to melt the edge off but found the sealing wire wears out quite quickly using that method. There are sealers made that do cut and seal, but I found them pricy. I looked into the wand system and just did not see that it would be that much quicker and I would an extra table.


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## DeeAnna (Mar 1, 2014)

"...I then stack up my soap in rows and go over with the heat gun to initially get the outside edges...."

Neat tip! I will have to try that -- thank you!


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## cmzaha (Mar 2, 2014)

DeeAnna said:


> "...I then stack up my soap in rows and go over with the heat gun to initially get the outside edges...."
> 
> Neat tip! I will have to try that -- thank you!


You are welcome


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## OliveOil2 (Mar 2, 2014)

That is a great trick! I find that if I heat the sides first I get a much smoother finish than when I do the center first.


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## Lindy (Mar 2, 2014)

I used to use the impulse sealer and although it worked okay I wanted better.  So I started out by buying the polyolefin and trying to use my impulse sealer.  I found that to be an exercise in total frustration so I sprung for the rest of the system.  I couldn't be happier.  There are a few tricks like stacking your soaps and doing the edges.  I also found it helps to keep the heat gun moving and then turning over after the first pass even if it isn't snug, then once it cools come back to that side and then repeat on the other side.  I do find that it is rather quick and I love my system.  It sounds like it takes a lot of time to do it but really, it's not.


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