# Refrigerate or wrap in towels? Gel or no Gel ?



## Jerry S (Dec 28, 2010)

I do CP most of the time. I did HP making bars for the Holidays, because I was running out of time. I’ve been soaping for 6 or 7 years, on and off.  I don’t sell my soap.

All my bars turn out to my satisfaction. I generally do CP, combining my lye water and oils at roughly 110 degrees, stick blend to trace, add my FO’s and color then pour and wait about 15 hours before I cut. 
The HP, I do in a crock-pot, after mixing the batter the same as CP. I work faster getting it in the mold cuz it wants to stiffen up on me. I wait the same 15 hours plus or minus a couple, before I un-mold. 

I’m a little confused about some of the threads I read when after people pour they put there soap in the refrigerator or freezer. Then, on the other hand I read where others cuddle their mold after the pour in towels to keep it warm. Then there is the “Gel Factor” which I’m not completely clear on either. 
Obviously, I am missing something, or doing something wrong.':cry:' Can someone or all give me your comments?':?'
Thanks
Jerry


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## soapbuddy (Dec 28, 2010)

It's a matter of personal preference. I prefer not to gel.


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## jennikate (Dec 28, 2010)

If you gel wrap in blanket. If say goat milk soap most prefer fridge for no gel. All in what you like. I gel usually its all personal taste. The difference is all in the look of the  soap .


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## jennikate (Dec 28, 2010)

Something i have seen suggested take a batch split in two wrap half in blankets sick other half in fridge and see which you think  looks nicer.


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## carebear (Dec 28, 2010)

I gel.  My preference.
Plus I have a hard time preventing gel, so it's better to encourage it and make sure it gets to the edges than to have partial gel.


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## Jerry S (Dec 28, 2010)

The “look” of my bars has always been pretty consistent throughout the bar. I mean the shade of the soap. When you say partial gel, do you mean that the center of the bar looks sort of translucent, while the outside is coating is not?  
If this is the case, then what would prevent this, putting the mold in the refrigerator or keeping it warm with towels to keep it from “gelling”. 
Jerry


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## jennikate (Dec 28, 2010)

darker in center would be partial gel. Wrapping in blanket will get you full gell hopefully. Fridge overnight wil hopefully prevent gel.


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## cwarren (Dec 28, 2010)

carebear said:
			
		

> I gel.  My preference.
> Plus I have a hard time preventing gel, so it's better to encourage it and make sure it gets to the edges than to have partial gel.



same here


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## Elly (Dec 28, 2010)

I also find it hard to sometimes prevent partial gel even if it goes straight into the freezer after mixing at low temps.  Each batch behaves differently.  I still prefer no gel but have to put up with partial gel sometimes, it is frustrating. The only time I encourage gel is when I use chocolate as coloring and desire a deep dark brown shade


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## Elly (Dec 28, 2010)

sorry, message duplicated


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## Jerry S (Dec 29, 2010)

This is really interesting. Sorry if what I say is confusing, but I have never experienced “gel” or partial gel as you all describe it. I have never seen this in my soaps in the whole time I have been soaping.  My bars are always a consistent color throughout the bar regardless of the oils I use or if I color them or not. I do soap a little warm but that varies from time to time. I do have a thermometer but when my temps come down to 110 both oil and lye water I start to make soap.   
I’m wondering if it’s the part of the country that I live in which in most cases is very dry, meaning very low humidity but I don’t know if that would have anything to do with it or plus the fact I'm at sea level or maybe a combination of different things.
This really seems strange to me…':?'
Jerry S


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## Sunny (Dec 29, 2010)

Soaps that gel all the way through are uniform in color.
Partial gel is when the soap does NOT gel all the way through and then part of the soap is darker, part is lighter.

Putting the soap in the refrigerator (keeping it cool) is an attempt to keep the soap FROM gelling. It never works for me and I experience partial gel because of the natural heat that is generated by the soap - so part stays cool and part stays hot and that is partial gel.

Putting towels around the soap would be an attempt to help the soap gel all the way through (keeping it warm). This is what I go for. 

Most likely if you make normal CP soap, and you have never tried to cool the soap on purpose, your soap is always going through the gel stage.


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## Sunny (Dec 29, 2010)

So here is a picture of a soap that went through partial gel:











Part of it is light and part is dark because only part of the soap got to go through gel stage. I hope this helps a little!


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## c.a.p. (Dec 29, 2010)

Great pic of partial gel, Tasha.

I use gm, cp, and most of my soaps do not gel.  I like no gel.  I don't freeze or cover.  I will get a partial gel depending on my recipe or depending upon the eo.  I've been taking notes, so on my batches where I do get partial gel, I'm going to try to force gel either by wrapping or by sticking it in the oven.  I do not like partial gel.

Jerry:  If your soap is uniform in color, either your batches are not gelling or they are all gelling.  After you pour, if you are gelling, it will turn from an opaque look, to a more shiny, translucent look.  And it will get darker in the mold.  Not translucent like MP glycerin, but, it's hard to describe.  If your soap looks basically the same after you pour and as it's saponifying in the mold and slowly getting lighter, then you are not gelling.  And Tasha's pic should make it clear for you.


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## Guest (Dec 29, 2010)

Wow, Thanks for posting the pic, Tasha. If you hadn't said it was a mistake, I would have asked how you got a perfect little arch in the soap like that.
One of the first batches I made this holiday season is rather translucent. I cp, put in pvc pipe, and wrapped in towels. When I put my hand under the towels about 5 hours later, it was quite warm and was even warm a little the next morning. So I unwrapped and let them cool. I wondered why they seemed so translucent. Will have to look at my recipe again.

However this soap seems to make my hand seem slimy. I am letting it cure longer and may just rebatch. 

Does gel effect how the soap feels when used?


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## carebear (Dec 29, 2010)

Jerry S said:
			
		

> This is really interesting. Sorry if what I say is confusing, but I have never experienced “gel” or partial gel as you all describe it. I have never seen this in my soaps in the whole time I have been soaping.  My bars are always a consistent color throughout the bar regardless of the oils I use or if I color them or not. I do soap a little warm but that varies from time to time. I do have a thermometer but when my temps come down to 110 both oil and lye water I start to make soap.
> I’m wondering if it’s the part of the country that I live in which in most cases is very dry, meaning very low humidity but I don’t know if that would have anything to do with it or plus the fact I'm at sea level or maybe a combination of different things.
> This really seems strange to me…':?'
> Jerry S



are you sure?  if you soap heats up in the mold, then you likely are going through gel.  do you peek?  the color of the soap in the mold darkens - starting in the center then spreads to the edges as it progresses, so by the time you take it out of the mold, it's usually a uniform color.

humidity would have nothing to do with it - and I don't think sea level would have much impact either.


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## Jerry S (Dec 29, 2010)

Thank you all for addressing this gel issue. 
Ok, I think this gel no gel thing is starting to make a little sense to me.  First let me ask one more question on the photos that Tasha posted, is the gelled part of the soap on those bars the Outside or the Inside of the bar? 
Carebear….Yes, my soap generates heat in the mold for a few hours after I pour it. It sets on my bench to the open air. As it reaches total saponification the color turns consistently the same shade throughout, if I have put a colorant in it or not. So, maybe as you describe total gel, that’s what I’ve got. 
I am going to post some pictures of my soap in its mold and also the pictures I’ve taken of my bars after I cut them. 
I have to pick up a friend at the airport this morning, but I WILL POST those pics on this thread later. Thank you all again…lol..I keep thinking of Carebears caption…you can’t cure stupid..''
Jerry..


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## carebear (Dec 29, 2010)

the gelled part is the center.  the edges are ungelled.


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## Jerry S (Dec 29, 2010)

Here is a shot of some brown oatmeal castile and white soap made with
lard and a couple of other hard oils..note no shade differences.







Here is another shot of my bar mold, I do a lot of my bars in this one cuz
its easy to unmold and cut them..they cure for about 15 hrs. on the bench just as you see them..no cover







These pink bars are mostly OO with castor and PO with plumeria scent.
note they are pretty consistent in shade...







This is my Log mold with one I poured but cant remember what went in this one....No gel shade differences on this...I let it cure the same as the 
others on top of the bench..about 10 hours.







Just a close up of the same bars of the bar mold..the bars turned out really nice and the color your looking at was consistent throughout the bars..thats why I was so confused about reading on the Forum about soaps that gel and have different shades. they sat on the bench just as you see them..

Jerry S


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## PrairieCraft (Dec 29, 2010)

Geez, no wonder you are able to get a gelled soap with no cover on.  That is a lot of soap!  I think people wrap their little molds in blankets to insure gel because there isn't as much soap and so it might not create enough of its own heat.  Pretty soap, BTW.


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## SummerlandSoaps (Dec 29, 2010)

Jerry S said:
			
		

> Just a close up of the same bars of the bar mold..the bars turned out really nice and the color your looking at was consistent throughout the bars..thats why I was so confused about reading on the Forum about soaps that gel and have different shades. they sat on the bench just as you see them..



First of all, great pics! Awesome molds too. I love how one was labled "Supposed to be green" I have had a few batches that were supposed to be one color and came out another! lol


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## LabWitch (Dec 29, 2010)

Guess I'm going to have to play the wait and see game. I just made my third batch (ever) - CP, into a wood log mold. The first two I made were in shallow plastic tray molds, and definitely didn't gel but seem to have come out just fine. I'm mixing at about 85 deg F oil, lye somewhat cooler.

I came back to this thread to check if I should be making my mold all cosy, but I'm really none the wiser! This is the largest batch I've made,  so I'm half expecting this one to gel. I think I'll leave it as is, unwrapped, on the counter.

Stay tuned ...
(Many thanks to all who've posted pics - very helpful).


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## leizza (Dec 29, 2010)

*Is non-gel bad?*

This gel non gel conversation is very interesting. I have made my first batch of CP soap. For the most part, I am happy with the results so far. Definitely a learning process and will make some changes for future batches. My batch does not seem to have fully gelled though. I believe this is because not enough heat was maintained once in the mold. I can correct this for the future. My main concern now though is with this non-gelled part of my bars. I have about an 1/8 inch border of non-gelled sections around all edges of my bars. Is this still safe to use? Is the only difference between the gel and non-gel parts aesthetic qualities? If not good to use, can I cut off the non-gel parts and rebatch it while still keeping what seems to be good gelled soap part? The soap was in the mold for 48 hours and has now been out and cut for 24 hours. Thanks.


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## soapbuddy (Dec 30, 2010)

*Re: Is non-gel bad?*



			
				leizza said:
			
		

> This gel non gel conversation is very interesting. I have made my first batch of CP soap. For the most part, I am happy with the results so far. Definitely a learning process and will make some changes for future batches. My batch does not seem to have fully gelled though. I believe this is because not enough heat was maintained once in the mold. I can correct this for the future. My main concern now though is with this non-gelled part of my bars. I have about an 1/8 inch border of non-gelled sections around all edges of my bars. Is this still safe to use? Is the only difference between the gel and non-gel parts aesthetic qualities? If not good to use, can I cut off the non-gel parts and rebatch it while still keeping what seems to be good gelled soap part? The soap was in the mold for 48 hours and has now been out and cut for 24 hours. Thanks.


There is no need to rebatch. Once the soap is cured it will be as good as the parts that gelled. If you soap is still in the mold and your mold is oven safe, you could put it in the oven at 170 degree (US) and leave it there til it completely gels. Let cool, then slice.


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## Lynnz (Dec 30, 2010)

I do the fridge thing too just a personal preference on the look this gives me..............soaps have a creamier look to them. I still get a partial gel from time to time some of that is to do with the fragrances......there are those that really heat up in soap.
Just a little edit here as forgot to say your white soap is totally divine!!!!!! love it all but that rocks............loving it :0)


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## Bubbly Buddha (Dec 30, 2010)

For those who do not gel, may I ask why not?   What is the diffference in your finished soaps? 

I gel (aka wrap my soap babies in towels) but for higher temp recipes such as ones with honey or salt soaps, I've left unwrapped and watched them to see what they do  :roll: and you can actually see the "gel" phase start in the middle and extend out to the edges.  Really neat actually.


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## c.a.p. (Dec 30, 2010)

Bubbly Buddha said:
			
		

> For those who do not gel, may I ask why not?   What is the diffference in your finished soaps?
> 
> I gel (aka wrap my soap babies in towels) but for higher temp recipes such as ones with honey or salt soaps, I've left unwrapped and watched them to see what they do  :roll: and you can actually see the "gel" phase start in the middle and extend out to the edges.  Really neat actually.



Yes, it really is neat to watch the gel happening.  My molds are the silicon molds from WSP.  They are not inside a wooden mold like some others.  I soap at cool temps so I don't get gel.  I'm used to that and I like the look.  Less fussing over it, too (no oven, no freezer, no nothing).  Gel or no gel is about the look - period.  I don't like partial gel.  I'm still experimenting and taking lots of notes so future batches that I know will start to gel, I'll probably finish them off in the oven so that they gel all the way through.  Still good soap either way.


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## TheSoapMagician (Dec 30, 2010)

I just unmolded a batch I poured in a Wilton 8 x 8.  Wrapped it in heavy towels, and but a heating pad under it on low.  The bars came out great and look like a translucent cream. 

I think I'll do the heating pad more when I want a translucent effect.


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## Guest (Dec 30, 2010)

*gelling with silicone molds*

I have used milk cartons for molds so far and wrapped them in towels. I'm pretty sure they are gelling just because of how much heat they are generating! Always consistent color. 

I just bought by first real molds - some silicone loaf molds from WSP because everyone on here raves about them! - and tried those yesterday. I didn't wrap them in towels, but I did put a piece of wood over the tops. I'm pretty sure they didn't gel at all. I kept peeking but didn't see any difference. I will unmold later today maybe and see if there is a color difference.

I have no room in my tiny fridge so that could never be an option for me.

Re: Silicone molds - do folks generally insulate/ wrap these? If not, do you find your soap doesn't or only partially gels? The soap was a castile and the 2nd, an olive/ palm base scented with lavender.


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## srenee (Dec 30, 2010)

I really like the colors of those soaps.  I have been back and forth on the no gelling thing.  Depends on the colors and looks of the soaps.  Today feels like a gel day since it's cold outside and my inside house temperature is about 72.  Thanks for the pictures.  That really helps.


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## Guest (Dec 30, 2010)

Just unmolded my first batch with the silicone (no towels, just a board covering) and they did the partial gel. Darn. Have just done another batch but wrapped the silicone with a blanket so will see if that encourages the total gel...


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## Jerry S (Dec 31, 2010)

Well, I think I’m finally clear on all the Gel no gel issues...My soaps have all gelled due to the fact that they generate enough heat just being in the molds I use….I guess…(''
Tasha and Carebear…I have to thank you for clearing up most of this issue for me and Tasha for those great pics of partial gel…Carebear for…”the gelled part is the center. the edges are ungelled.”…Having never seen this before in any of my soaps was most informative..':wink:'
And…lyn..you made me feel so good when you said. “Just a little edit here as I forgot to say your white soap is totally divine!!!!!! love it all but that rocks............loving it :0)”
By the way Lyn, you have the prettiest sculpted bars I have ever seen…hands down…''
But again…hats off to you all for your comments and tips…I love you guys and this forum and it’s a lot of fun making soap….
Jerry S


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## xyxoxy (Dec 31, 2010)

It's funny... I sometimes have more trouble with partial gel when I TRY to gel. I think it may be because I almost always use PVC molds and they probably don't hold a lot of heat the way wood and silicone molds do.

But that's ok... I prefer non-gelled soap. I pre-chill my PVC molds and only take them out of the fridge when I'm ready to pour. I also soap cool and use a pre-mixed lye solution at room temp so things don't usually get too hot. I pour and the molds go right back in the fridge for 48 hours and I almost never see any gel... except maybe when I have a very reactive FO or add too much honey etc.

When I do want a gelled soap (like a dark purple floral soap I make called "Amethyst") then I usually HP it since the floral FO will accelerate anyway.

The only CP soaps I insulate are my salt bars.


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## turnedlight (Dec 31, 2010)

I had been confused about this gell thing, and what it looked like, until my last batch - the first in my new silicon loaf mould, also my first goats milk soap. Now I know what it looks like, 4 weeks on it is pale around the edges and dark in the middle! Not very pretty. I only make small batches, I usually halve what recipes say as I'm experimenting with things right now, and I usually put the filled mould into a cardboard box and put a blanket over that. I don't tend to peek but I've never seen a 'gel' going on when I have looked..


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## see (Dec 31, 2010)

i might have already asked this on another thread, if so sorry.  I remember thinking it. lol 

For those who cover your molds, what temperature is your house.  Does fluctuations in house temp influence whether or not you cover?  It seems when my place is mid 60s and i cover, i get partial gel.

thanks


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## Jerry S (Jan 3, 2011)

*to gel or not to gel...*

I just had one more thought about all this gel or not to gel issue. For my next soaping for 2011 I was going to make one of those PVC pipe molds that you stick in the oven and when it gets warm it can be shaped into an oval mold. ''
But….. the thought occurred to me that the wall thickness on the PVC pipe won’t be thick enough to hold the heat and give me my complete gel I’m used too. But then I could cuddle it up in some towels so it stays warmer longer and that might solve the issue. 

I wondered if anyone has ever used these molds and how hard it is to get the soap out after it sets up since its not round anymore but oval. As I remember in a video, one can just slide some freezer paper down the tube before one pours or.....spray some pam in there before the pour. Has anyone ever tried this  ??
Jerry S


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## Traceyann (Jan 3, 2011)

My soaps always gel regardless of whether I wrap or not, I actually have to be careful if I do wrap as they heat up toooooo much, but it is summer here and about 29 degrees celsius outside and sometimes 31 inside,( dont know what your conversionto farinheight is) , its also very very humid here too....as this is my first time soaping it will be interesting to see what happen in winter , but our winters are usually warm here too around 12 dg is the average lowest


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## Stacey (Jan 3, 2011)

*Re: to gel or not to gel...*



			
				Jerry S said:
			
		

> I just had one more thought about all this gel or not to gel issue. For my next soaping for 2011 I was going to make one of those PVC pipe molds that you stick in the oven and when it gets warm it can be shaped into an oval mold. ''
> But….. the thought occurred to me that the wall thickness on the PVC pipe won’t be thick enough to hold the heat and give me my complete gel I’m used too. But then I could cuddle it up in some towels so it stays warmer longer and that might solve the issue.
> 
> I wondered if anyone has ever used these molds and how hard it is to get the soap out after it sets up since its not round anymore but oval. As I remember in a video, one can just slide some freezer paper down the tube before one pours or.....spray some pam in there before the pour. Has anyone ever tried this  ??
> Jerry S




Jerry, I just did some oatmeal and honey soap in a PVC mold on Friday.  Yes, definetely, use the freezer paper in the mold.  Works like a charm. 

Before I learned to use freezer paper the soap stuck in there like crazy.  I ended up having to put it in the freezer and freeze it solid, then run hot water over it to get it out.  What a pain.  Even at that, my husband had to help me get it out.  Now with freezer paper lining it?  It still takes a little work to get it out but it does come.  

One other suggestion would be to use something that could act like a plunger through the mold.  A pusher, if you will.  I used a half-pint jar with the lid on it.  Rather crude little instrument, but it worked!    

Now, mind you, my PVC pipes were still round.  I don't have an oval one yet.  So not sure how you'll get a plunger/pusher for an oval one.  

Usually what I do with my round molds is put them a tall beverage cooler we have.  I put the pipes in standing up, surrounded by towels to keep them from tipping, and a little towel goes over the top.  

As you know, honey in soaps will heat up quite a bit.  So I really get quite a gel going.     For honey soaps I usually leave the lid open.  

Hey Jerry, I also wanted to say thanks for starting this thread. Due to all the discussion here, I decided to give the un-gelling process a try.  Sadly for me, I got a partial gel even when I put the mold in the freezer.  Re-reading the thread, I think it's because my loaf mold is made out of wood and stayed hot/warm too long.  Oh well, it was fun to try.  Thanks for being an inspiration!

Happy soaping!


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## soapbuddy (Jan 3, 2011)

To help prevent gel in a wooden mold, stick the mold in the fridge or the freezer before you use it.


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## Jerry S (Jan 3, 2011)

*to gel or not to gel...*

Stacey, I thought that might be the way to go with the freezer paper in the tube. I saw a video of a lady doing something similar to what you mentioned about getting the soap out of the tube by pushing it out.  She had a post in her backyard garden which was a bit smaller that the inside of the tube and she used that to bump the soap out. 
Considering the heat that honey will generate is similar to me always using a tablespoon of sugar for every pound of lye water I have. That’s another reason I probably get complete gel…':wink:'
…''I don’t know if I’m much of an inspiration to anyone but I sure know about what makes getting a gel and not from all the discussion on this thread.  Before this I had no idea about what people were talking about when they mentioned “partial gel”...

Hey Tracyann, your about 8 thousand miles from me''…. but I’m in a warm climate as you are. 29 to 30 celsius is about 86 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Yeah, that’s hot '' That’s probably why you get gel almost every time. Your summer now is our winter…we can get to 4 or 5 Celsius in winter but usually we’re about 20 which is pretty mild.  I get a kick out of talking to you all “down under”…and of all things…about making soap…''
Jerry S


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## probb01234 (Jul 31, 2011)

*Gel Stage 101 or Gelling for Dummies*

No, your not a dummy.  If you are reading this, you are in fact much smarter than the average bear.

What is "gel"?;

When soap forms, the chemical reaction, called saponification, produces heat. All soaps produce this heat.  If the heat is allowed to build up, the soap turns into a goo, or gel, for a few hours. It may happen within a half an hour after pouring into the mold,  it may happen 24 hours after you pour. This period of time when your soap looks and feels like hot jello is known as the infamous gel stage. If you get a gel, do not panic.  As a matter of fact, it is almost always a sign of a successful batch of soap.

Should I gel or not? and Whats the difference between gelled and non gelled soap?

If you choose to promote a gel stage when your soap is forming, you do so by insulating the soap with blankets, thick wooden molds, etc.  Again, what one does when encouraging a gel stage, is trapping the natural heat produced when the soap forms. Moving blankets work great to insulate molds and trap heat to encourage a gel stage.

A soap that gels will be more translucent, and will also get harder faster, and require less cure time. Most soaper's report colors get deeper or more vivid in a soap that has gelled.

A soap that does not gel will usually be more opaque, and look more like store bought "soap" bars.  Also, many people report that a non-gelled soap feels silkier on the skin. 

So, Gel or no gel effects color intensity, translucence, cure time, and finally;

Gel phase and scent. 

Heat is an enemy of essential oil. The hotter your soap gets, the more scent is "burnt" off, or lost. Now, that said, soap that has gelled can smell wonderful. This is where some experimentation comes in. Maybe your scent is unscathed by a gel phase, maybe your scent is almost completely lost due to a gel phase.

How do I prevent gel?

Its simple, you have to keep the temperature low while the soap cures.  Yes, your soap will fully use up all the lye even if you leave your loaf in the freezer.  It just takes more time for the soap to form and cure. Many people say they can not prevent gel, and this may be true.  However, from an organic chemistry standpoint,  any exothermic chemical reaction can be slowed, and even stopped, if temperatures are kept low enough.

What the heck is exothermic?  A chemical reaction that gives off heat, like our beloved soap does.  The opposite is endothermic, meaning heat has to be added.  This is important to understand if you really want to wrap your arms around this mysterious gel phase.

Hot process soap adds heat, an oven or crock pot keeps the soap so warm that it finishes much faster than cold process.  The added heat speeds up the reaction. The same soap will in fact form and cure with out heat, and even inside the freezer. 

The more heat you keep, the more gel you get, the faster things get done.  I prefer to gel to cut down on cure time, that's the only reason.  I prefer the denser thicker look of ungelled soap, and do in fact try my best to prevent gel when using sensitive essential oils, especially lavender and citrus scents. 

You can try everything under the sun to prevent gel, and it still may happen despite your best efforts.  You may want your soap to gel, but the darn stuff refuses to do so. This is because of the almost limitless combinations of oils we soaper's use. 
Also, different humidity levels and altitudes effect chemical reactions, and therefore our soap.  Most all soaps gel here in Florida, even without insulation. My friend in Colorado almost never gets his soaps to fully gel. Yes, we have experimented with identical recipes, and found that identical recipes do in fact behave differently at different locations.

So, your still wondering, should I gel or not? It really is, as many gifted soapers on this forum have posted, simply a personal preference. If your soap gels, partially gels, or does not gel, the end product will still be soap, and will work just fine regardless. 
This is where experimentation comes in. A good way to prevent the gel stage is to use very small molds, and plop them into the fridge, or freezer.   Make a batch of soap,  split it in half, and try to promote gel in one half, and prevent it in the other.  You'll then have your aha moment, and realize, much of the mystery surrounding the infamous gel stage is really much ado about nothing. 

Fell free to message me with any questions, or with any info I may have missed.

Your,  Paul Robb


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## Jerry S (Aug 1, 2011)

*Gel or not to Gel*

Thank you all, especially Paul Robb and Stacey for the great info on gelling and using PVC molds. I have not made any soap for about 5 months and have been away from my home for almost as long, so have not been checking the forum…(I finally ordered a laptop…yes, I know that probably dates me…lol), so will be checking in more often when not at my home in ca. I have to try making an oval mold Stacey but have been reluctant to do so because I’ve heard that raising he temperature high enough to get the PVC soft enough may allow it to give off harmful vapors…. anyone have any ideas other than moving the kitchen stove outdoors…lol.
Jerry S


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## MissMori (Aug 1, 2011)

*Re: Gel or not to Gel*



			
				Jerry S said:
			
		

> anyone have any ideas other than moving the kitchen stove outdoors…lol.
> Jerry S



Use a heat gun and go outside.    

I'm in So CA as well.  We're neighbors!


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## xyxoxy (Aug 1, 2011)

*Re: Gel or not to Gel*



			
				Jerry S said:
			
		

> ...I have to try making an oval mold Stacey but have been reluctant to do so because I’ve heard that raising he temperature high enough to get the PVC soft enough may allow it to give off harmful vapors…. anyone have any ideas other than moving the kitchen stove outdoors…lol.
> Jerry S



I have not done this myself but I've seen where others have used a heat gun (like you use for shrinkwrap). So with an extension cord you can do this outside. As I recall you put the PVC between two boards. You then begin heating the PVC from inside. When it gets soft enough you push down gently and it will bow into an oval. The board helps keep it uniform. I suspect you could just use your own weight to push down on the board or you could use bricks or some other type of weight. I don't think it would take much once it heats up.

If you don't have a heat gun, check out harbor freight. I got mine there for about $10.


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## Hazel (Aug 1, 2011)

I did search and didn't find an answer. If there is an answer, then it's buried far, far back.

I've always tried to prevent gel in any soaps in which I used buttermilk or cream. Last month, I added a small amount of cream (I think it was only 3 or 4 oz) into a large batch (60 oz). I wasn't thinking and wrapped the soap and allowed it to gel. I thought the soap came out nice and I thought I'd like to do this same recipe again.

So here's the question - Is it a bad idea to gel soaps which have cream in it?


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## soapbuddy (Aug 1, 2011)

It's not a bad idea to gel soaps which have cream in it, but there is higher chance of overheating since milk has natural sugars in it. So do what works for you.


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## Hazel (Aug 1, 2011)

Thanks for the reply. I'll keep an eye on it when I try it again.


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## Jerry S (Aug 6, 2011)

*Gel or not to Gel*

Thanks for the tip on using the heat gun Mickey. I do have a hair dryer that I have been using with great success shrink wrapping my bars, but your tip on Harbor Freight tools for a heat gun is great. I didn't think they handled them...I'll have to check that out...thanks
Jerry S


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