# Face Scrub



## The Efficacious Gentleman (Sep 7, 2016)

Hello SMFers

I have found a recipe (on the back of a product) and I would like to see what is what in it - it's a face scrub, which is new ground for me, but there are some things in there that I just don't know what they bring to the party and what I could use instead.

Water (Aqua)
Koalin
*Magnesium Aluminum Silicate* - thickener? if so, would cetyl alcohol work?
Glycerin
*Sorbitol* - not sure what this would do
*Potato Starch Modified* - Could I use corn starch?
Charcoal Powder (Activated Charcoal)
Titanium Dioxide (CI77891)
*Panthenol* - for moisture, could I use a butter or an oil maybe?
Lavadula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil
*Tocopheryl Acetate* - Could I just ue Vit E?
*Citric Acid* not sure on the purpose.  Ph, mabe?
*Triethenolamine* - Complete blank here
Fragrance (Parfum)
*DMDM Hydantoin* - Preservative. I imagine I could use my usual one no worries?

The bold ones are ones that I am not sure about and/or what  I could use instead of it, if anything.

Also, what sort of % would you think I should aim at first?

Many thanks.


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## Misschief (Sep 7, 2016)

I've used citric acid as a skin brightener/chemical facial peel in the past.


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## traderbren (Sep 7, 2016)

I'm no help on the rest of the ingredients, but the panthenol (if you can find it reasonably priced where you are) is an ingredient I use a good bit in hair care (leave in conditioner, detangler spray) and I'm working on a beard balm that I am going to try to incorporate it into for my hubs. I use it in my kids' detangler/ spray conditioner since it doesn't weigh the hair down. I also add it to my lotion. (Family and friends only- I don't sell.)


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## The Efficacious Gentleman (Sep 7, 2016)

Thanks for the tips


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## DeeAnna (Sep 7, 2016)

From a long discussion I read recently about the different types of tocopherols --
"...Tocopherol acetate acts as a skin care active - moisturizing - it isn't an antioxidant. For an antioxidant, use mixed tocopherols..." --Jane Barber

Triethanolamine is a surfactant and emulsifier. It is also alkaline and acts as a pH buffer. Sorbitol is a humectant and thickener.


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## snappyllama (Sep 7, 2016)

For the Potato Starch Modified, I'm thinking this was used as a thickener and to make it feel less greasy. I'd probably use Tapioca Starch Modified since I keep that on hand. You might be able to find that less expensively sold as Ultratex in gourmet foodie stores.

I agree with TraderBen on the Panthenol (a.k.a vitamin B5). I like to use Panthenol in my winter skin lotion and it does seem to work (I miss it when it's not there)... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panthenol

Sorbitol is a humectant. I'd look at glycerin as a replacement.  I've tried honeyquat, but still prefer glycerin since honeyquat always smells fishy to me.


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## cmzaha (Sep 7, 2016)

Unless this is be sent out for challenge testing, or whatever the term is in Austria, I would not use potato starch in a water based lotion. I tried it once and my preservative system did not hold, after 3 months mold started to form. No it had not gone out for sale, it was a test batch. I am blaming the starch since I use the same recipe without the starch and have not had a problem. 
I totally agree with Snappy about the Honeyquat, it always smell fishy to me. I tried it in shampoo bars and dumped the whole batch expensive to make batch due to the smell of the Honeyquat. Panthenol and Allantoin go into most of my lotions


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## DeeAnna (Sep 7, 2016)

I have someone near and dear to me who is recovering from radiation treatment. An OTC skin cream (aloe based) with 0.5% allantoin has helped soothe and encourage healing of his lingering skin damage. It's not a miracle ingredient, but the damaged skin is much happier protected with the allantoin cream than with any other products he's tried. I've purchased some allantoin (and panthenol) to try in my lotions.


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## Arimara (Sep 7, 2016)

DeeAnna said:


> I have someone near and dear to me who is recovering from radiation treatment. An OTC skin cream (aloe based) with 0.5% allantoin has helped soothe and encourage healing of his lingering skin damage. It's not a miracle ingredient, but the damaged skin is much happier protected with the allantoin cream than with any other products he's tried. I've purchased some allantoin (and panthenol) to try in my lotions.



Would disclosing the name of the cream, if it's not too much trouble? I'd like to try this for my mom. She's been having a rough time of things lately.


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## penelopejane (Sep 7, 2016)

Tocopherol acetate is natural vit E 
di-alpha tocopherol acetate is synthetic vit E


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## BrewerGeorge (Sep 7, 2016)

What does swiftcraftymonkey say?


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## The Efficacious Gentleman (Sep 7, 2016)

Thanks for the help, all. I've not look at Susan's page yet, wanted to float it passed "y'all" first.


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## kchaystack (Sep 7, 2016)

The Efficacious Gentleman said:


> Thanks for the help, all. I've not look at Susan's page yet, wanted to float it passed "y'all" first.



See, my first instinct for soap is to ask here.  

But for bath and body, I always look a Susan's page, and then come here for follow up.    

And if you support her Patreon, you can submit the product for her to duplicate.


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## Soapmaker145 (Sep 7, 2016)

The magnesium aluminum silicate is a mineral that could be used as an abrasive or to give the kaolin better slip.  It all depends on size.  You might be able to figure out which based on how your skin feels afterwards.  The sorbitol is a humectant.  The citric acid and triethanolamine are for pH.  I think the panthenol was meant as a pro-vitamin since you already had sorbitol and glycerin.    From the look of the recipe, you could probably make it with kaolin, water, glycerin, a preservative, and you favorite EO.  Most of the rest seem to be for changing the feel of the scrub.  I'm guessing they used less kaolin and added the rest to make it feel thick and silky and to make it easier to wash off the skin.


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## DeeAnna (Sep 7, 2016)

Oh, no problem -- it's Mederma. He's using the advanced scar creme. It's a clearish gel that is water based, not a greasy or oily product. The 20 gram tube has lasted a long time for him, but he's treating only a few square centimeters of skin. http://www.mederma.com/products/



Arimara said:


> Would disclosing the name of the cream....


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## Arimara (Sep 7, 2016)

DeeAnna said:


> Oh, no problem -- it's Mederma. He's using the advanced scar creme. It's a clearish gel that is water based, not a greasy or oily product. The 20 gram tube has lasted a long time for him, but he's treating only a few square centimeters of skin. http://www.mederma.com/products/



Thank you much.


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## snappyllama (Sep 8, 2016)

DeeAnna said:


> I have someone near and dear to me who is recovering from radiation treatment. An OTC skin cream (aloe based) with 0.5% allantoin has helped soothe and encourage healing of his lingering skin damage. It's not a miracle ingredient, but the damaged skin is much happier protected with the allantoin cream than with any other products he's tried. I've purchased some allantoin (and panthenol) to try in my lotions.



I love that combination too. One thing (if you haven't used it yet), put allantoin in the heated water phase. It's a pita to mix in otherwise to get out the grittiness.


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## DeeAnna (Sep 8, 2016)

I'll keep that in mind -- thanks for the tip, Snappy! The Mederma product has allantoin at 0.5% (and no panthenol). What % of allantoin and panthenol do you prefer to use, if you don't mind sharing?



snappyllama said:


> I love that combination too. One thing (if you haven't used it yet), put allantoin in the heated water phase. It's a pita to mix in otherwise to get out the grittiness.


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## snappyllama (Sep 8, 2016)

DeeAnna said:


> I'll keep that in mind -- thanks for the tip, Snappy! The Mederma product has allantoin at 0.5% (and no panthenol). What % of allantoin and panthenol do you prefer to use, if you don't mind sharing?



My current recipe is 0.5% allantoin and 2% panthenol. My notes say Panthenol can go as high as 4%, but I haven't tried upping it from 2% yet.


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## HappyGoNaturally (Sep 8, 2016)

The Efficacious Gentleman said:


> ....
> 
> *Triethenolamine* - Complete blank here
> ...
> *DMDM Hydantoin* - Preservative. I imagine I could use my usual one no worries?



Triethenolamine, also often seen as TEA, is an emulsifier, but nothing I would personally use.  From what I have read, it can be known to cause allergic reactions, and it has toxicity issues in regard to aquatic life, and it does end up down the drain; (there are also some other studies about it that get kind of ugly.)  

DMDM Hydantoin is a preservative that is a formaldehyde releaser, not something I care to use, but I see it in far too many products.  

I made an all natural face face scrub three years ago, there is no water included, only carrier oil and it only started to separate after a couple of years, with no adverse odor from the oil being that old.  It's a weird one, but I can share it if you'd like, you could at least see what I did.  I still use it on my face with wonderful results.


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## The Efficacious Gentleman (Sep 8, 2016)

HappyGoNaturally said:


> Triethenolamine, also often seen as TEA, is an emulsifier, but nothing I would personally use.  From what I have read, it can be known to cause allergic reactions, and it has toxicity issues in regard to aquatic life, and it does end up down the drain; (there are also some other studies about it that get kind of ugly.)
> 
> DMDM Hydantoin is a preservative that is a formaldehyde releaser, not something I care to use, but I see it in far too many products.
> 
> I made an all natural face face scrub three years ago, there is no water included, only carrier oil and it only started to separate after a couple of years, with no adverse odor from the oil being that old.  It's a weird one, but I can share it if you'd like, you could at least see what I did.  I still use it on my face with wonderful results.





Yes please! It would be interesting to try out various options


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## makemineirish (Sep 8, 2016)

DeeAnna said:


> I have someone near and dear to me who is recovering from radiation treatment. An OTC skin cream (aloe based) with 0.5% allantoin has helped soothe and encourage healing of his lingering skin damage. It's not a miracle ingredient, but the damaged skin is much happier protected with the allantoin cream than with any other products he's tried. I've purchased some allantoin (and panthenol) to try in my lotions.



I randomly came across a recipe on Swifty Crafty Monkey that utilized these ingredients while I was researching body butter emulsions for myself.  I realize that you are experienced with body products and are likely to be comfortable going off-book in formulating your own recipe.  However, I thought that I might pass it along in case it was helpful as a reference or sparked new ideas.

Normally, I would PM the information to avoid hijacking the post.  Since others had expressed an interest in the Mederma...it seemed prudent to share with the class .  I've pasted the recipe below, but more information can be found in the original blog post here: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2010/01/formulating-with-oils-body-butter.html

*MODIFIED BODY BUTTER FOR ITCHY, WINTER SKIN* 

WATER PHASE
  25% aloe vera liquid
  25% lavender or chamomile hydrosol
  2% hydrolyzed protein
  3% sodium PCA
  0.5% allantoin


  OIL PHASE
  15% shea butter
  10% oils - 6% sea buckthorn oil, 4% soybean oil
  6% BTMS
  3% cetyl alcohol
  2% IPM


  COOL DOWN PHASE
  2% panthenol
  2% cyclomethicone
  2% dimethicone
  0.5% to 1.5% preservative
  1% fragrance oil


  A note on the emulsifier: I've chosen to use 6% BTMS. If you want to use  e-wax or Polawax, you would want to use 1/4 of the oil phase, which is  34%, meaning you need 8.5% emulsifier.Save
Save​


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## HappyGoNaturally (Sep 8, 2016)

The Efficacious Gentleman said:


> Yes please! It would be interesting to try out various options



I did warn you that it was a weird recipe -- I can't find my notes on amounts though, just the ingredients.  I wasn't going anywhere with it at the time, I mean, it turned out looking like dark (Pacific coast) sand, only a bit finer, and it was just for personal use.  It turns out a medium brown color.  The extra amount I had after putting some in sealed plastic bags started get a little runny after several months (could be from using it or not airtight) -- but, the "sand" in the packets is still looking the same -- like slightly dampened sand.  

So, here's what I used while toying with this "sand scrub" --

Extra-fine sugar
Sugar
Baking Soda
Star of Anise Powder 
Cornstarch
Calcium Bentonite Clay
Apricot Kernel Oil
Juniper Berry Glycerite
Himalayan Pink Salt
Peppermint e/o

~~~ 
I think any herbal powders could have been used; the scent is somewhere between anise and juniper with a hint of mint.


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## DeeAnna (Sep 8, 2016)

Thanks for the link, Makemineirish --  anything Susan shares is good inspiration, and this recipe definitely will help me.


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## milky (Sep 8, 2016)

I would really like to know your face scrub recipe. I make make tiny amounts of perishable scrubs once in a while but it would be great to have one that lasts for a bit longer!

Edit: I forgot I had this page open on the desktop for so long. lol. Thank you for sharing! Sounds like it smells wonderful


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## Dahila (Jan 16, 2017)

BernardMays said:


> scrub is used to remove the dirt from the skin.



No scrubs are use to remove dead cells from skin,  They are not to wash the face :-?


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## Dahila (Jan 16, 2017)

I use allantoin at 0.5 in all my lotions and facial creams,  water phase to dissolve it,  Honeyquat is wonderful humectant but must be added at cool phase  It will not smell fishy then.


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