# 70% Rice Bran Oil soap



## Dawni

Coz I'm too chicken to try anything higher right now lol

Also, I wanted a smallish batch, and I wanted to use up all the calendula and chamomile infused RBO that I had, which came to about 70% of 700g. Any smaller and it would have been difficult to use my huge slow cooker. And yes, I wast too lazy to use (and wash after) multiple containers for transferring haha

So... 70% infused RBO, 16% coconut oil, 10% Shea, 4% Castor. No additives whatsoever other than salt and sugar. Mainly coz I forgot.

Never soap with relatives asking for money though the kitchen door harharhar

I used 2.8:1 lye, which, upon hindsight, could have been less, because I wanted a plain soap and didn't need that much fluidity (just a little coz I wanted it in individual molds). I managed a Castile with much less water and I'm thinking I could have gone around 2.6:1 with this, given the similarities of olive oil and RBO.

That's how my brain worked it out lol

It's the softest soap to come out my pot so far. It's now about 21hrs after I molded and it is still "doughy" much like I assume soap dough feels like. About 6hrs earlier than when this pic was taken I was still able to "mold" a small piece into a ball..





If anyone is interested, I will be posting updates on hardness, lather, and longevity during and after a longish cure.

I leave my soap alone for a minimum 2mos anyway, but somehow I'm thinking this, while it shouldn't need as long as a Castile, would be better if cured more than 2mos. Suggestions on cure time are welcome btw.

We shall see...


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## KiwiSoap

Thanks for sharing, and yes I'm interested to see how they go for hardness, lather and longevity! Rice bran oil is a cheap oil here, and being it's part of @KiwiMoose's famous soap that I love would be interested to see how it goes pushed to the limits... I'm infusing my calendula using RBO as well (and thinking about it, I have dried chamomile too...)

I really like your butterfly moulds! (Does not need any more moulds...)


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## KiwiMoose

Yes - I would like to see how it turns out too - RBO is about $5 per litre ($3.30 US, $171PHP) so it is dirt cheap.


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## Mobjack Bay

Looks like a successful experiment. I can’t imagine getting any HP soap I’ve made so far to go into those intricate butterfly molds!   I bought some RBO, but it’s still unopened so I will be waiting for the update!


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## Dawni

RBO is one of the cheapest fats I have, second to lard and slightly cheaper than mid oleic canola oil even. Even if it's just for you two kiwis, I will definitely observe and update  

@Mobjack Bay open yours! Regardless of this experiment, I like using RBO and I think you should try it. Some recipes I completely replace olive oil with it. I find it more bubbly and less drying after my initial 2 month cure. I've used it up to 30% so far and I'm keeping an eye out for DOS but my 6 month old soaps are so far ok.


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## szaza

Great experiment @Dawni! I'm very curious about this. I was actually planning on doing a 75% RBO soap soon as part of a series or 75% of a certain oil in soap, comparing it to olive and sweet almond to see what they bring to a recipe. (though my soaping time is limited and it'll probably take another 2-3months to finally make it) I'm really curious about how yours is going to behave!! [emoji16][emoji106]


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## earlene

My 100% RBO soap is lovely.  No DOS after almost 2 years (made July 2017).  Lather and bubbles are good for me; not as copious as my 100% hemp oil soap, but equal to or better than my 100% OO soap and I don't have to work at it to get a good lather.  The RBO soap is gentle and leaves my skin feeling as well nourished and moisturized as before washing, so obviously not stripping.

I made it two ways, one plain and one with vinegar:

Plain: I used [40% Lye] concentration, zero SF, and the only additives were EDTA & ROE to combat DOS & soap scum.

Vinegar:  I used [31.1% Lye] concentration with vinegar as part of the water replacement (to obtain 2% sodium acetate), zero SF, and the additives were Yellow mica (to differentiate the two soaps visually), EDTA & ROE.  Of course I did the calculations to determine the extra NaOH needed to offset the lye consumed by the vinegar. 

Longevity is something hard for me to judge since I alternate soaps so often.  I have a sliver of the plain RBO soap sink-side that I use for handwashing and can't recall how long it's been there.  I usually alternate between 3 or 4 soaps at that sink and wash my hands at least 10 times a day using one of those soaps.

I will follow your updates to see how you and your family feel about your 70% RBO soap with CO, shea & castor.  I suspect you will experience a lot of bubbles and lather.


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## Mobjack Bay

Dawni said:


> @Mobjack Bay open yours! Regardless of this experiment, I like using RBO and I think you should try it. Some recipes I completely replace olive oil with it. I find it more bubbly and less drying after my initial 2 month cure. I've used it up to 30% so far and I'm keeping an eye out for DOS but my 6 month old soaps are so far ok.



There are soooo many things I want to try and I’m thinking that maybe the time has come for me to make simple or single oil recipes so that I can get a better feel for the oil qualities.  I just saw hemp oil in the store the other day.  I guess I will add that one to the list along with the RBO.


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## earlene

Mobjack Bay said:


> There are soooo many things I want to try and I’m thinking that maybe the time has come for me to make simple or single oil recipes so that I can get a better feel for the oil qualities.  I just saw hemp oil in the store the other day.  I guess I will add that one to the list along with the RBO.



I like hemp oil, but not everyone does.  It has a short shelf life, AND it lends a sort of a sea or seaweed type odor to the soap.  I like the odor, and suspect you might, too.  I think for those of us who spend/spent a lot of time at the seashore or on the sea, would really appreciate it because of that.  But that's not everyone's cup of tea. 

Another thing about hemp oil in soap, is that it does seem to react to exposure to sunlight and discolors to brown on the surface of the soap.  BUT even though at first I thought this was DOS, I have concluded that it is NOT.  The discoloration disappears with use (while washing with the soap or if scraped off) and does not seem to re-appear when kept away from windows (which is why I concluded it was reacting to sunlight).  I have a bar in my bathroom that is still green (from the mica) with no DOS spots - it's almost 2 years old.  I still smell the sea scent of this non-fragranced 100% hemp oil soap.  (Oh, I made it with zero SF because of the short shelf life of this soap.)

BUT, if you don't like slime, you might not like hemp oil soap.  It has way more slime than any Castile soap I've ever made.  In fact, I barely notice Castile slime, like many people do, but it's very noticeable in a high hemp oil soap.


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## Mobjack Bay

earlene said:


> I like hemp oil, but not everyone does.  It has a short shelf life, AND it lends a sort of a sea or seaweed type odor to the soap.  I like the odor, and suspect you might, too.  I think for those of us who spend/spent a lot of time at the seashore or on the sea, would really appreciate it because of that.  But that's not everyone's cup of tea.
> 
> Another thing about hemp oil in soap, is that it does seem to react to exposure to sunlight and discolors to brown on the surface of the soap.  BUT even though at first I thought this was DOS, I have concluded that it is NOT.  The discoloration disappears with use (while washing with the soap or if scraped off) and does not seem to re-appear when kept away from windows (which is why I concluded it was reacting to sunlight).  I have a bar in my bathroom that is still green (from the mica) with no DOS spots - it's almost 2 years old.  I still smell the sea scent of this non-fragranced 100% hemp oil soap.  (Oh, I made it with zero SF because of the short shelf life of this soap.)
> 
> BUT, if you don't like slime, you might not like hemp oil soap.  It has way more slime than any Castile soap I've ever made.  In fact, I barely notice Castile slime, like many people do, but it's very noticeable in a high hemp oil soap.



I’m game for trying smelly, slimy soap!


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## KiwiMoose

Mobjack Bay said:


> I’m game for trying smelly, slimy soap!


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## DeeAnna

earlene said:


> ...BUT, if you don't like slime, you might not like hemp oil soap.  It has way more slime than any Castile soap I've ever made....



That's good to know, Earlene. Essentially you're saying a soap very high linolenic and linoleic acids also makes a gel-like (aka slimy, snotty) lather, just like oleic acid. 

I'd always wondered, but never wanted to make this type of soap for myself, so I didn't want to do the experiment to find out. Thanks for sharing!


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## Nanette

You guys are so funny....just terrifically entertaining for me to read all these conversations......! Well, KiwiMoose makes me laugh..


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## Arimara

earlene said:


> I will follow your updates to see how you and your family feel about your 70% RBO soap with CO, shea & castor.  I suspect you will experience a lot of bubbles and lather.



I will be trying this myself... as soon as I can properly source some soap oils.


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## Serene

earlene said:


> I like hemp oil, but not everyone does.  It has a short shelf life, AND it lends a sort of a sea or seaweed type odor to the soap.  I like the odor, and suspect you might, too.  I think for those of us who spend/spent a lot of time at the seashore or on the sea, would really appreciate it because of that.  But that's not everyone's cup of tea.
> 
> Another thing about hemp oil in soap, is that it does seem to react to exposure to sunlight and discolors to brown on the surface of the soap.  BUT even though at first I thought this was DOS, I have concluded that it is NOT.  The discoloration disappears with use (while washing with the soap or if scraped off) and does not seem to re-appear when kept away from windows (which is why I concluded it was reacting to sunlight).  I have a bar in my bathroom that is still green (from the mica) with no DOS spots - it's almost 2 years old.  I still smell the sea scent of this non-fragranced 100% hemp oil soap.  (Oh, I made it with zero SF because of the short shelf life of this soap.)
> 
> BUT, if you don't like slime, you might not like hemp oil soap.  It has way more slime than any Castile soap I've ever made.  In fact, I barely notice Castile slime, like many people do, but it's very noticeable in a high hemp oil soap.




Hmmm I just bought some Hemp Oil.   I will give it a try.    I wonder if Zany's no slime method with Faux seawater would make a difference when it comes to the slime fest.   Off to the dungeon, I mean the soap room. Will try both with and without the faux seawater.  I needed more things to test anyway.   (Not really)...sigh


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## steffamarie

My first ever CP soap, made just one week shy of a year ago, is about 40% olive and 60% RBO. The lather was slime city at first but I find it makes delightful bubbles now and though it hasn't a trace of scent left (I used a tiny amount of an essential oil) is actually a decent bar.


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## Dawni

I keep forgetting to update this, sorry... 

I took out a bar today to try. The soap is almost 4.5mos old and I like it. Considering it's a "budget oil" it's quite luxurious in my opinion. It's a nice creamy lather and when I just kept rubbing my hands together it got thicker, but I wouldn't exactly say denser. Not drying either, unlike an olive oil based one of the same age. I love it. I initially made this for my toddler and maybe I'll complete the 5mos and let him use it.

I should point out that I tried a small piece two months back, at my regular cure time of around 2mos and it was a tad drying then.

Hard to take pics alone lol but this is the lather after rubbing for 25 seconds, then rinsing n drying one hand to take a pic haha. Obviously it was thicker before this..


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## beckster51

I have an RBO soap that I made about six months ago, and I really like it.  It is a bit "snotty" when you first wet it, but it makes a nice lather, and it is very kind to my itchy, sensitive skin.  I keep it high and dry between uses, and it has not melted any more than the other soaps that contain harder oils.  It is not as bubbly as I would like, but there are tradeoffs in life, right?  I think RBO soap needs a long cure, just like a castile.


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## cmzaha

I forgot about RBO as a single oil soap when I was looking to replace OO. Darn now I am too late for the Holiday Markets, but I will be making this for next year. Thankyou for the update.


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## Mobjack Bay

Thanks for the update and the inspiration.  I couldn’t resist testing the soy wax soap I made this past weekend with 30% RBO.  I never test soap that early... IMHO, it’s fantastic.  

@beckster51 My soap also has 20% CO and no castor.  It’s very bubbly, so maybe it’s recipe dependent?


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## Dawni

@Mobjack Bay I think I will agree with you. @beckster51 I think if I made this with only RBO I won't be raving about it as I am. My soap has less CO than MBs but also has castor, even has shea for a lil more longevity. 

I still compared it to OO in one of my replies because I do have a soap that has it with the all the other mentioned fats... And the RBO trumps that one still, in terms of lather, longevity and snot, if compared at 2mos and 4.5mos.

That tells me that while high olive oil soaps should be cured longer at maybe minimum 9-12mos, a high RBO will be good at maybe 5-7mos. I initially thought they'd need more or less the same time. 

Biggest "selling point" is that this soap isn't drying, compared to olive oil, for me. Of course, as with all soap, they will all get better as they age.....


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## beckster51

Mobjack Bay said:


> Thanks for the update and the inspiration.  I couldn’t resist testing the soy wax soap I made this past weekend with 30% RBO.  I never test soap that early... IMHO, it’s fantastic.
> 
> @beckster51 My soap also has 20% CO and no castor.  It’s very bubbly, so maybe it’s recipe dependent?



Yes, I am sure the CO makes it more bubbly, but I have had to forego some bubbles in my soap since my skin cannot tolerate CO.  I haven't made a soap with 15% CO yet to see if it is tolerable, but it is on my list to do so.


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## Lin19687

Mobjack Bay said:


> Thanks for the update and the inspiration.  I couldn’t resist testing the soy wax soap I made this past weekend with 30% RBO.  I never test soap that early... IMHO, it’s fantastic.
> 
> @beckster51 My soap also has 20% CO and no castor.  It’s very bubbly, so maybe it’s recipe dependent?



Was this suppose to be in the Soy Wax thread?


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## Mobjack Bay

Lin19687 said:


> Was this suppose to be in the Soy Wax thread?


We are talking about RBO and I was commenting on my soap that has 30% RBO.


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## Lin19687

Mobjack Bay said:


> We are talking about RBO and I was commenting on my soap that has 30% RBO.


Oh lol, I had just seen the Soy Wax thread and wondered


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## Dawni

Update anyone? Hehehe.. 

So this soap has just hit its 7th month and as expected, it's a lovely soap to use. I've been using a bar on my toddler since the 6th month mark and he just loves it.

My last update showed creamy lather with tiny bubbles. Now, my son is able to play with big bubbles in the lather. Bath time is taking longer than usual lol I'll try to get a pic later. 

Also I'd like to note, and this is purely anecdotal, that his tiny butt is smoother than it used to be, considering how much it's washed after pooping. Second, he had these rough spots on his legs that seem to have disappeared. 

TMI? Sorry about that lol previously he was using a Bastile I bought from someone else. She said it cured for 3mos and it was ok, but now that he's using my soap I'm more convinced that olive oil just isn't for everyone.

Lastly.... No signs of DOS yet. No orange spots and no old crayon smell. This batch is unscented, FYI.


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## beckster51

That's wonderful, Dawni.  Not TMI for me - LOL.  I have had the same experience with my very high RBO soaps.  They seem a bit "slimy", like castile, sometimes when I first wet them, but they are tremendously mild for my skin, and I have not had any DOS or rancidity.  Mine are about a year old.  I will definitely be making more.  What did you use for your other 30% if you don't mind me asking?


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## Mobjack Bay

@Dawni @beckster51 - It’s very interesting that you’re not getting DOS, especially if you’re breaking the 15% linoleic + linolenic “rule.”  Are either of you adding ROE, EDTA citric acid or similar to you soaps?  If you’re willing to share, how high is the linoleic FA percentage in you recipe?  Is like the mildness and really like the bubbles of my RBO soaps, but do worry about DOS.


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## Lin19687

"So... 70% infused RBO, 16% coconut oil, 10% Shea, 4% Castor. No additives whatsoever other than salt and sugar. Mainly coz I forgot."
From the 1st post , I am guessing that is her recipe

@Dawni  I wonder if you added CB instead of Shea if it would be a bit harder faster ?



beckster51 said:


> Yes, I am sure the CO makes it more bubbly, but I have had to forego some bubbles in my soap since my skin cannot tolerate CO.  I haven't made a soap with 15% CO yet to see if it is tolerable, but it is on my list to do so.


Have you thought about using PKO instead?


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## beckster51

Lin19687 said:


> "So... 70% infused RBO, 16% coconut oil, 10% Shea, 4% Castor. No additives whatsoever other than salt and sugar. Mainly coz I forgot."
> From the 1st post , I am guessing that is her recipe
> 
> @Dawni  I wonder if you added CB instead of Shea if it would be a bit harder faster ?
> 
> 
> Have you thought about using PKO instead?



I always use babassu or PKO as a sub for CO, except in salt bars.  I have extremely dry skin, and it just doesn't tolerate very much in the way of cleansing oils.  I have still yet to make a soap with a low percentage of CO, but it is on my to-do list.  Since having really bad results using CO in my first few batches, I haven't used it again except in batches for my family.  It doesn't bother them in the least.

I have made 2 batches of high % RBO soap.  The first was 85% RBO, 10% PKO, 5% castor with EDTA  and sugar.  This soap is exceptionally mild, but a tad bit slimy, like castile.  This batch is 16 months old, and no DOS. 

Batch #2 was 80% RBO, 15% PKO, 5% castor with EDTA, and sorbitol.  I like this batch better.  Much less slimy, but still very, very mild.  It is 9 months old, no DOS.  I still feel very clean after bathing with these soaps, but not itchy and dry, and I am prone to use too much hot water when I bathe, which I know is a no-no with dry skin, but I love it so much!

To answer Mobjack Bay's question, I always use EDTA in all my soaps just to try and avoid DOS.


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## Dawni

@Mobjack Bay I do not use any of those. Now that I'm selling I am looking into getting one of em, at least citric acid... The soaps I am currently selling all have less than 15 combined linoleic and linolenic. This soap is 25 linoleic and 1 linolenic. It was an experiment that so far, seems to have produced good results.

My Castiles for example, both CP and HP have DOS without even reaching 6 months. Sucks, that. 

@beckster51 that's my recipe that Lin quoted hehehe..

I'm actually fiddling around with the numbers to see if I can lower my coconut and also get my longevity up without decreasing my RBO too much, and still get nice bubbles. I'm looking at 55-60% and maybe I'll try swapping shea for cocoa butter like @Lin19687 suggested. Maybe I'll use both lol

I'm thinking, while it's similar to olive oil in some aspects, maybe RBO is a whole lot different in some - cure time, mildness, hardness - so I'm thinking if I decrease it a bit, make it somewhat "more balanced" I might not have to wait 6mos for it to be as mild n bubbly as it is now.

That would be a plus if I will be selling this lol but also personally, it means I don't need to make a big batch each time I'm running out, I can make small batches sooner, and won't always worry about DOS ruining a big batch.


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## Arimara

Dawni said:


> Update anyone? Hehehe..
> 
> So this soap has just hit its 7th month and as expected, it's a lovely soap to use. I've been using a bar on my toddler since the 6th month mark and he just loves it.
> 
> My last update showed creamy lather with tiny bubbles. Now, my son is able to play with big bubbles in the lather. Bath time is taking longer than usual lol I'll try to get a pic later.
> 
> Also I'd like to note, and this is purely anecdotal, that his tiny butt is smoother than it used to be, considering how much it's washed after pooping. Second, he had these rough spots on his legs that seem to have disappeared.
> 
> TMI? Sorry about that lol previously he was using a Bastile I bought from someone else. She said it cured for 3mos and it was ok, but now that he's using my soap I'm more convinced that olive oil just isn't for everyone.
> 
> Lastly.... No signs of DOS yet. No orange spots and no old crayon smell. This batch is unscented, FYI.



Do you have any idea how many moms are on this forum? Those results are hardly TMI for me. it just makes me which I had thought to try this for my daughter. Her skin is fine however and she has not had a flare up in a bit so her bars are fine.


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## Lankan

The BRO oil soap would not go rancid/ develop DOS.


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## Quilter99755

Lankan, thanks for this info. I will be reading for quite a while on this. I love the way RBO feels on my skin, so it looks like I need to make a batch of soap with it.


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## Dawni

7 month old 70% RBO soap.

Not the best pic, coz my dad took it lol I was giving my toddler a shower and he had his phone in his hand, but you don't need a clearer one too see the beautiful lather.


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## Fiut

Looks so good! After reading this thread I've composed a soap recipe with 60% RBO. Not cooked yet (I make HP soap), but I'm exited to try this I will use some chelator and rice flour to give it steadiness. Thank you for such interesting information and idea!


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## Quilter99755

This looks like it will be one of my next test soaps.  I have only purchased RBO in small quantities in the past for lotions (which I love), so have purchased it online with other soap making supplies.  On Amazon it's in two categories, one cooking and the other personal care. Is there a difference?  There is a local restaurant supply that has it, although Im not sure I want a 35 lb container of it, but the price is fantastic! LOL I just don't know if it is something I'd be better off buying from a soap maker. Any advice out there?


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## Dawni

@Quilter99755 the one I use is from the supermarket so it's safe to assume it's for cooking. Price is great too, like really great for me lol. My 2 liter bottle here is about 9$.

Maybe someone else here has tried one that's labeled for cosmetic use..

@Fiut this is HP too!


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## Quilter99755

[QUOTE="Dawni,! [/QUOTE]

Thanks so much. I guess it's just like me buying my olive oil at Costco or lard at Wally's.  I'll pop for a reasonable amount to test the bars out rather than the great price for way more than I need for a while.  Also good to know that you HP it.  That is my preferred method. Now I just have to get past my DH and his "making soap again?" comments. LOL When you are testing soap and getting your friends to give you feed back, it takes a lot of soap!  But I'll be off to a quilting retreat for a week and come home with only quilting on my mind. And then his comments will be "another quilt?"


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## beckster51

Like Dawni, I routinely buy my RBO at the market if it's on sale, but it is usually more expensive here than buying it from Soaper's Choice most of the time.  By the way, I am really loving my 80% RBO soap!  I get a good lather, surprisingly.  I liked it so much in the bath that I started using it at the sink in the kitchen.  My  winter/kitchen hands have improved quite a bit.  I will keep making this soap.


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## Mobjack Bay

Lankan said:


> The BRO oil soap would not go rancid/ develop DOS.


It looks like the article you linked is about cold processed/pressed  oil.  As I understand it, from limited research, much of the RBO on the market is solvent extracted using hexane.  I’m trying to learn more, but at this point it’s not clear to me that the antioxidants are preserved in the extraction process.  I do love the way RBO bubbles.


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## Lankan

Mobjack Bay said:


> It looks like the article you linked is about cold processed/pressed oil.  As I understand it, from limited research, much of the RBO on the market is solvent extracted using hexane.  I’m trying to learn more, but at this point, it’s not clear to me that the antioxidants are preserved in the extraction process.  I do love the way RBO bubbles.



page 3 of the PDF
_
*Extraction of rice bran oil *

Oil of stabilized rice bran was extracted into hexanes using Soxhlet apparatus. The extraction was carried out on a water bath set at 50 oC for 8-9 h with 300 mL of n-hexanes. After extraction, the solvent was distilled off in vacuo at 45°C. The extracted oil was stored at -20 oC until further analysis._


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## SideDoorSoaps

I have yet to try RBO. I’ve never seen it cheap though. I keep trying to get it at Lowe’s when it’s on sale but ours must not keep a lot of it around. I have recently tried hemp and so far love the lather of it but either the oil or the mix of fragrance I used makes me think of wet dog.


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## Fiut

I made a small batch with 60% RBO, rest CO, 2 butters and castor. HP soap, feel very optimistic about it, the leftover piece lathers lovely and feels nice. Thank you for the inspiration! Now waiting for curing


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## DeeAnna

OT to @Dawni -- I hope you and yours are reasonably safe from the volcano in the southern part of the Philippines. The eruption sounds scary and dangerous!

https://www.washingtonpost.com/worl...2680f8-35cd-11ea-a1ff-c48c1d59a4a1_story.html


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## Dawni

DeeAnna said:


> OT to @Dawni -- I hope you and yours are reasonably safe from the volcano in the southern part of the Philippines. The eruption sounds scary and dangerous!
> 
> https://www.washingtonpost.com/worl...2680f8-35cd-11ea-a1ff-c48c1d59a4a1_story.html


We are, thanks for asking 

It's actually the southwest-ish part of the northern main island. I am towards the southeast, so that's northeast of the volcano though downwind most of the time. Still getting ash today, classes and government offices have been suspended til further notice here, including the capital, Manila.

The volcano is within a lake, actually a beautiful tourist spot, and one of our favorites to unwind. Hoping all the people down there find adequate shelter..... And that the place won't be too destroyed, so that they can get back to their lives relatively unscathed.


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## Quilter99755

Good to hear that you are safe.  We have a daughter on the island of Hawaii. They went through an eruption a couple years ago.  They are safe but some of the most beautiful places on the island were covered with lava.  So sad to see them gone.  I hope your lake is still there and the people can carry on with their lives.  Am following on the news.  Stay safe.
Lois


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## DeeAnna

Thanks for the update, @Dawni -- it's good to hear.


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## beckster51

Dawni said:


> We are, thanks for asking
> 
> It's actually the southwest-ish part of the northern main island. I am towards the southeast, so that's northeast of the volcano though downwind most of the time. Still getting ash today, classes and government offices have been suspended til further notice here, including the capital, Manila.
> 
> The volcano is within a lake, actually a beautiful tourist spot, and one of our favorites to unwind. Hoping all the people down there find adequate shelter..... And that the place won't be too destroyed, so that they can get back to their lives relatively unscathed.



Been thinking about you, Dawni.  Do stay safe!  You have long distance friends that want you to help us make soap!


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## beckster51

Fiut said:


> I made a small batch with 60% RBO, rest CO, 2 butters and castor. HP soap, feel very optimistic about it, the leftover piece lathers lovely and feels nice. Thank you for the inspiration! Now waiting for curing



I hope you enjoy your soap as much as I am enjoying mine.  It is so gentle to my old lady skin, and since I have been using it in the kitchen, my hands are so much better.


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## Fiut

beckster51 said:


> I hope you enjoy your soap as much as I am enjoying mine.  It is so gentle to my old lady skin, and since I have been using it in the kitchen, my hands are so much better.


Still waiting for cure, but the leftover piece is very luxury indeed! And I added some corn silk that gives an extra shine, like a pearl.


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## cmzaha

deleted due to posting in the wrong thread. Duh... Meant to post in the Making fun for Kids


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## Quilter99755

I got a request from a friend to teach her how to HP soap. She was only in town for my quilting retreat, so had to come up with a recipe where I could get all my stuff and the containers for the oils in one box (too many quilting projects for more than one box)...in retrospect it would have been easier to just use your recipe by pre-measuring all the ingredients but felt she needed to learn how to use the scale and equipment. So my smallest containers were RBO, PKO, Cocoa and Shea Butters and Castor oil.  I finally used 45% RBO, 20% PKO 15% for both butters and 5 % Castor. 

Both of us were fairly surprised at the creamy lather while we were cleaning up. I left her with the instructions that she couldn't use the soap until at least the 6 week mark and better at 8 or even 6 months. She cheated and started using hers at 4 weeks and absolutely loves it!  I cut my bar in half and gave my daughter a portion to try out. We used ours this week for the first time. It is lovely. I noticed that it lathers easily, but rinses off so easily that I wondered if I had actually put soap on my cloth. No overly squeaky clean feeling, and best of all no dry feeling.  

Now I want to try out some at least a little higher with the RBO (may even try out a 100% RBO soap), am thinking of cutting the PKO or even a tad on the butters. This is by far the best soap that I have made....I may have just found my favorite oil to use.  Thank you, Dawni,  for this write up as I'm not sure I would have tried RBO without reading this.  I'm tossing my olive oil...this is head and shoulders above anything I've ever made with it.  Love it.  Thanks again


----------



## KC22

I’d love to know if you test out 100% RBO. I’ve yet to buy or use it at all but from what I’ve been reading it’s a good additional at the least. Does RBO harden the bar at all?


----------



## CookeTheSoapDiva

I would like to try this recipe using the hot process


----------



## Quilter99755

KC22 said:


> I’d love to know if you test out 100% RBO. I’ve yet to buy or use it at all but from what I’ve been reading it’s a good additional at the least. Does RBO harden the bar at all?


no, you need some hard oils in the recipe. I have used lard and PKO with both shea and cocoa butters to help with the hardness and longevity. A lot of people substitute RBO for olive oil. For sure I like it better.


----------



## Sony Sasankan

KC22 said:


> I’d love to know if you test out 100% RBO. I’ve yet to buy or use it at all but from what I’ve been reading it’s a good additional at the least. Does RBO harden the bar at all?


I haven't tried 100% RBO, but did try making a 100% Sunflower Oil a month back. It was pretty soft and sticky... not a big fan. Maybe RBO will be similar as they're both fairly similar in consistency at room temp (different fatty acid profiles of course). Im also guessing an unusually long curing time maybe (like olive oil castille soaps)? I'll check mine in 3 months or so and see if some miracle happens


----------



## beckster51

My favorite RBO soap so far is 80% RBO, 15% PKO, and 5% castor.  It does produce a soap that stays sticky in the mold for a couple of days, and I cured it for 8 months before I started using it.  It is my favorite soap so far.  It is very gentle, rinses clean, with no dryness or tightness.  It has really helped my very dry skin.  It is a tad bit slimey, like castile, when you first work up a lather, but it is less slimey than castile.   I do not like OO soap at all, but I really like this.  I actually hid it from myself  so that I would not be tempted to use it, and when I found it again, it was a happy surprise.  It is not a really hard bar, but hard enough, and I find if I keep it dry, it lasts almost as long as my other soaps.  The lather is good, but I have relatively soft water from an artesian aquifer.  Yes, I have great water, and I am very grateful for it every day.

My next try will include some lard to increase the hardness, and I will probably drop the castor.  I am into simple soaps since I make them for myself and my family, and I am on a quest to really narrow down what oils I am going to keep on hand after trying nearly everything.  RBO is definitely  a keeper for me.


----------



## Quilter99755

CookeTheSoapDiva said:


> I would like to try this recipe using the hot process


For the most part, the only process that I use is crockpot HP. I would like to try out oven process but just haven't gotten around to it yet.  Only have done CP twice and am not a fan of the clean up nor the fact that it has not saponified, so unless I have a reason (like swirls or colored layers) I doubt that I will change my methods.


----------



## Kcryss

LOL, I had to chuckle at this thread. @Dawni  has me addicted to RBO as well. I started using it after she commented on a few of my recipe disasters and recommended switching from OO to RBO. I made the switch and have been happy with the change. 
I too am a Hot processor ... did CP once and probably wont do it again. 
I might have to give this a try. RBO castille


----------



## Quilter99755

@Dawni for RBO and @IrishLass for Lard.  Now two of my favorite oils.  My go to soap recipe had olive oil which was so much better than regular bars of soap(detergents) that I loved it, but recently has my skin itching. Big Time Itching.
So I started on  a quest for a new go to recipe with lard and found this one with RBO. After my retreat "teaching" experiment with RBO and how great that feels, I have done a couple of lard and RBO combos. I have great expectations just by how nice they were from the cleaning up process. I'll test them at 6 weeks but really want to keep my cures at about 2 months.  Any longer and then I have to find nooks and crannies to store them...ones I don't forget where they are! LOL 
For me olive oil is back on my cooking shelf for good. Can't wait to see how these soaps feel at the two month mark.  I'm with @Kcryss that I might even try an RBO castile...just don't know if I can find a place to wait out the long cure time! LOL


----------



## Todd Ziegler

Great experiment, I can't to read about the results. How well did the RBO do with the infusions? I have a lot of RBO that I was going to use but then lard came along and now I have 2 gallons of RBO that I need to use.


----------



## Kcryss

Todd Ziegler said:


> Great experiment, I can't to read about the results. How well did the RBO do with the infusions? I have a lot of RBO that I was going to use but then lard came along and now I have 2 gallons of RBO that I need to use.


I use RBO in all of my soap. My latest go to recipe is lard/tallow/RBO/CO/caster.


----------



## Todd Ziegler

Kcryss said:


> I use RBO in all of my soap. My latest go to recipe is lard/tallow/RBO/CO/caster.


I ordered some tallow and I am going to try it this weekend.


----------



## Kcryss

Todd Ziegler said:


> I ordered some tallow and I am going to try it this weekend.


I think you'll like it. I've used it without lard a couple of times, but prefer to combine them and with RBO it makes a really nice soap.


----------



## Todd Ziegler

Kcryss said:


> I think you'll like it. I've used it without lard a couple of times, but prefer to combine them and with RBO it makes a really nice soap.


Do you notice any difference when you use the tallow or lard without one or the other?


----------



## Kcryss

Todd Ziegler said:


> Do you notice any difference when you use the tallow or lard without one or the other?



Lard only is nice, but a bit softer. The tallow helps to harden it a bit and seems to add a little more creamy lather. Could just be in my head though.


----------



## Quilter99755

Kcryss said:


> Lard only is nice, but a bit softer. The tallow helps to harden it a bit and seems to add a little more creamy lather. Could just be in my head though.


It seems like someone on the forum felt that tallow was a bit more drying than lard. Lately most of my soaps have been lardy in some way and the lather is very creamy. Then I did the RBO and thought it was creamy too. So now I have started using lard and RBO in various combos and the clean up process shows an abundance of creamy lather...HP soaper. Rather than tallow I've used shea or cocoa butter that I have on hand.  Guess I'll need to try out tallow with it the next time I'm able to connect with some tallow to render.


----------



## Kcryss

Quilter99755 said:


> It seems like someone on the forum felt that tallow was a bit more drying than lard. Lately most of my soaps have been lardy in some way and the lather is very creamy. Then I did the RBO and thought it was creamy too. So now I have started using lard and RBO in various combos and the clean up process shows an abundance of creamy lather...HP soaper. Rather than tallow I've used shea or cocoa butter that I have on hand.  Guess I'll need to try out tallow with it the next time I'm able to connect with some tallow to render.



I decided I was tired of rendering fat and was going to stop doing it, then someone gave me 27 lbs of beef fat the other day ... back to rendering. 

If you were closer I would share.


----------



## Quilter99755

A couple times a year we go to a restaurant supply store and buy one of their steak packages.  We trim the steaks pretty close and I render it.  It's a pain but I feel worse if I toss the tallow without rendering it.  I'm not sure I could deal with 27 pounds of it!  Or even want to! LOL  We used to live in Colorado in the 60's and 70's before we went to Alaska...Loveland and Estes Park areas. Sure is different today.


----------



## Kcryss

Quilter99755 said:


> We used to live in Colorado in the 60's and 70's before we went to Alaska...Loveland and Estes Park areas. Sure is different today.



You would hate it now. It's very sad. Grew up here, one of the few remaining natives. Soooo many people coming in, destroying the mountains, building way too many homes, kicking wildlife out of their habitat and then complaining when bears come around ...


----------



## Quilter99755

We have family in Loveland still and when we visit we see the changes. Which is one of the reasons we did not settle there when we retired from life in Alaska. But we see some of it here in Idaho, too. Way too many people!


----------



## Kcryss

Quilter99755 said:


> We have family in Loveland still and when we visit we see the changes. Which is one of the reasons we did not settle there when we retired from life in Alaska. But we see some of it here in Idaho, too. Way too many people!



I wish all these people moving in could see the destruction they have caused. 
I believe you see the fire hazards and damage from all the people moving in as well, like we are seeing here and California witnesses as well.


----------



## Quilter99755

I wish the local council members would think about the destruction before allowing hundreds of new homes to be built in areas that really can't support them. I live in farming/ranching country rather than the forests, but we definitely have the fires here every summer. It gets worse every year, along with the traffic.


----------



## Kcryss

Quilter99755 said:


> I wish the local council members would think about the destruction before allowing hundreds of new homes to be built in areas that really can't support them. I live in farming/ranching country rather than the forests, but we definitely have the fires here every summer. It gets worse every year, along with the traffic.



I agree 100%. I think they are only looking at increased economical impact and see nothing but dollar signs. On the flip side, the fires, increased traffic, water, sewer, energy and dozens of other impacts are largely ignored, which carry monetary, environmental, and loss of life costs.


----------



## cmzaha

Kcryss said:


> I agree 100%. I think they are only looking at increased economical impact and see nothing but dollar signs. On the flip side, the fires, increased traffic, water, sewer, energy and dozens of other impacts are largely ignored, which carry monetary, environmental, and loss of life costs.





Kcryss said:


> I wish all these people moving in could see the destruction they have caused.
> I believe you see the fire hazards and damage from all the people moving in as well, like we are seeing here and California witnesses as well.


While this is a discussion for another forum where are the people supposed to go. Many areas have housing shortages. Fires are a natural occurrence and not always the fault of people. Fires in California are common, we are an arid state and prone to periods of drought and with high winds (Santa Ana's) contributing to wildfires. It is an unfortunate part of life. Also, towns die when they do not grow and stay stagnant. Same as people if we do not progress we go stagnant. Towns simply need people, businesses, housing, etc to survive. 

Back to the OT. I am going to make a small batch of 100% dual lye RBO with sorbitol, tetrasodium edta, sodium gluconate and vinegar aging it 6-12 months as soon as I get ambitious.

I use both Tallow and Lard in my non-vegan soaps with tallow the higher percentage as I have dos issues with lard. Tallow does add a cleansing value so if you watch your cleansing values you may need to lower your CO or PKO, although tallow does not contribute much to lather it is hard as a rock as single oil soap, with little bubbles. I love around 45/25 tallow/lard. Using RBO at 20-30% as liquid oil would be very nice.


----------



## penelopejane

Quilter99755 said:


> For me olive oil is back on my cooking shelf for good. Can't wait to see how these soaps feel at the two month mark.  I'm with @Kcryss that I might even try an RBO castile...just don't know if I can find a place to wait out the long cure time! LOL


By RBO “Castile” I figure you mean 100% RBO. 
“Castile” traditionally means 100% OO soap not long cure soap. 

The longer you leave a soap, generally, the better it becomes. But OO seems to be unique in really needing a long cure to gaining hardness and mildness and other unique properties. 

Use 100% RBO and cure for a year by all means but don’t confuse it with “Castile”. There are lots of us who love OO and the qualities it brings to soap.


----------



## Quilter99755

penelopejane said:


> By RBO “Castile” I figure you mean 100% RBO.
> “Castile” traditionally means 100% OO soap not long cure soap.
> 
> The longer you leave a soap, generally, the better it becomes. But OO seems to be unique in really needing a long cure to gaining hardness and mildness and other unique properties.
> 
> Use 100% RBO and cure for a year by all means but don’t confuse it with “Castile”. There are lots of us who love OO and the qualities it brings to soap.


Sorry, I should have added a smile imogi with the RBO castile like @Kcryss did.  LOL


----------



## penelopejane

Quilter99755 said:


> Sorry, I should have added a smile imogi with the RBO castile like @Kcryss did.  LOL


That’s ok. It’s just that on this forum so many people misuse “Castile” and then confusion sets in...
Also Castile is a hobby horse of mine - you might have noticed - and I get a bit defensive...
I think there really is a difference between the OO we get and the OO you get in the US.


----------



## Quilter99755

penelopejane said:


> I think there really is a difference between the OO we get and the OO you get in the US.


That could be for sure. I was using OO at 40-50% with other oils for my go to recipes. After an experiment with lard and now RBO I will never use OO again. It isn't worth the itchy skin for me. 

I just re-read an article on single oil soaps http://www.zensoaps.com/singleoil.htm which then sent me to all of the other single oil soap tests that have been done and mentioned on this forum. The results are similar in some and way different in others.  And it is interesting to see how others on the forum say their single oil or mostly single oil does not react the same as the testers. I'm sure some of it would be water and storage related, but it also has to be skin related too. 

This thread has given me hope that I can find my ZEN soap and so far it will be something with RBO or lard from the early results that I have done.  I have a section in my soaping notebook that is labeled "Try This"...it is growing by leaps and bounds between this thread and now the single oil threads. Thanks to all who have chimed in with their recipes and results.  I'll do the same when my soaps are at least 2 months old. But it will be with my skin and my water and my storage methods, so it may not work for anyone else.


----------



## n6561echo

Quilter99755 said:


> I got a request from a friend to teach her how to HP soap. She was only in town for my quilting retreat, so had to come up with a recipe where I could get all my stuff and the containers for the oils in one box (too many quilting projects for more than one box)...in retrospect it would have been easier to just use your recipe by pre-measuring all the ingredients but felt she needed to learn how to use the scale and equipment. So my smallest containers were RBO, PKO, Cocoa and Shea Butters and Castor oil.  I finally used 45% RBO, 20% PKO 15% for both butters and 5 % Castor.
> 
> Both of us were fairly surprised at the creamy lather while we were cleaning up. I left her with the instructions that she couldn't use the soap until at least the 6 week mark and better at 8 or even 6 months. She cheated and started using hers at 4 weeks and absolutely loves it!  I cut my bar in half and gave my daughter a portion to try out. We used ours this week for the first time. It is lovely. I noticed that it lathers easily, but rinses off so easily that I wondered if I had actually put soap on my cloth. No overly squeaky clean feeling, and best of all no dry feeling.
> 
> Now I want to try out some at least a little higher with the RBO (may even try out a 100% RBO soap), am thinking of cutting the PKO or even a tad on the butters. This is by far the best soap that I have made....I may have just found my favorite oil to use.  Thank you, Dawni,  for this write up as I'm not sure I would have tried RBO without reading this.  I'm tossing my olive oil...this is head and shoulders above anything I've ever made with it.  Love it.  Thanks again


Yes.  It will help harden your bar.  It has about the same amount of palmitic FA (16-25%), as avocado oil (15-25%).


----------



## n6561echo

penelopejane said:


> That’s ok. It’s just that on this forum so many people misuse “Castile” and then confusion sets in...
> Also Castile is a hobby horse of mine - you might have noticed - and I get a bit defensive...
> I think there really is a difference between the OO we get and the OO you get in the US.


It is well documented that, because of its' price, OO is the most adulterated vegetable oil on the market. Several investigations found it to be over 50% canola oil.  I only buy from reputable vendors, and never from retail stores.


----------



## Jersey Girl

n6561echo said:


> It is well documented that, because of its' price, OO is the most adulterated vegetable oil on the market. Several investigations found it to be over 50% canola oil.  I only buy from reputable vendors, and never from retail stores.



You are correct.  Know your source.
https://www.foodrenegade.com/how-tell-if-your-olive-oil-fake/
https://www.forbes.com/sites/larryo...l-day-is-your-evoo-real-or-fake/#50ee7e7d2a64


----------



## n6561echo

Thanks Jersey Girl.  Those are great links; I hope everyone reads them.


----------



## Dawni

So this soap has passed the one year mark... And I'm happy to report no DOS yet. Woohoo! 

It is considerably lighter than when it was first made. The lather is awesome, a bit more, if not just like my last post from January. 

It is still the only soap my son's skin likes - he's been at my cousin's recently for an extended period, and when they tried another soap on him his poor little legs got so dry, and he had flaky patches.. When they got a bar from home, his skin went back to normal in just a couple of days.

I'm looking into putting these up for sale now that it's been tested long enough, with just a few tweaks for a bit more hardness and longevity.


----------



## KiwiMoose

Thanks for sharing Dawni.  Have you got any pics to see the colour? What were your other oils in there?  Coconut? Palm? Castor?  Worth a shot at that price - would be a very cheap bar of soap for me.


----------



## Dawni

Yeah I should take some new pics.. The first post has a pic of freshly made soap, and there's a blurred one here lol. I shall update for you soon as the lil guy naps.

More info in the original post.... But the recipe is this:


> 70% infused RBO, 16% coconut oil, 10% Shea, 4% Castor. No additives whatsoever other than salt and sugar.



I had the calendula infusion on hand already, hence why I decided to make this soap that time. I am thinking of upping the Shea a bit and/or adding some cocoa butter, for a little more of both hardness and longevity, coz while the current recipe lasts enough, it's a very soft soap. It starts of as a square and by the time the lil guy is done with it it's more like a ball lol

It is currently a very cheap soap to make..


----------



## beckster51

Dawni said:


> So this soap has passed the one year mark... And I'm happy to report no DOS yet. Woohoo!
> 
> It is considerably lighter than when it was first made. The lather is awesome, a bit more, if not just like my last post from January.
> 
> It is still the only soap my son's skin likes - he's been at my cousin's recently for an extended period, and when they tried another soap on him his poor little legs got so dry, and he had flaky patches.. When they got a bar from home, his skin went back to normal in just a couple of days.
> 
> I'm looking into putting these up for sale now that it's been tested long enough, with just a few tweaks for a bit more hardness and longevity.


Mine is great, too, Dawni.  I love this soap.  It is a bit softer, but the lather is fabulous, and it is the mildest soap I have ever made.   I have actually used it at the kitchen sink when I started washing my hands a kazillion times a day, and it really helped to keep my hands from being dry.


----------



## Lin19687

You know now might be a good time for me to make a few batches since I won't be donig any shows till this time next year


----------



## Hope Ann

I was happy to see this post today as I have a bunch of RBO to use up and had been thinking about 70/15/15 RBO / CO / butter (was considering kokum as I have another soap with kokum at 20% and kokum plus lard actually made it a smidge too hard).

Hope


----------



## Hope Ann

How do you ladies think this would work as a soleseif (upping CO a bit).  Wouldn't that help harden it a bit as well?

Hope


----------



## Dawni

@KiwiMoose here's your pic 





And the one from the first post for comparison


----------



## Dawni

Hope Ann said:


> How do you ladies think this would work as a soleseif (upping CO a bit).  Wouldn't that help harden it a bit as well?


Hallo Hope Ann 

The soleseife I make, use and sell does have RBO at 30%, Shea also 10% like this one, Castor Oil at 5% (1% more than this one), but with coconut oil making up 35%.

I also use avocado oil at 20% so if you wanna try all the soft oil amount to be just RBO (total 50% in this case) I say go ahead and do it. Let us know the results!

Soleseifes in general are very hard bars of soap once they're cured, because of the generally high amount of coconut oil used.



Hope Ann said:


> I was happy to see this post today as I have a bunch of RBO to use up and had been thinking about 70/15/15 RBO / CO / butter (was considering kokum as I have another soap with kokum at 20% and kokum plus lard actually made it a smidge too hard).


I think the kokum will do a better job than the shea here in hardening your bar, and increase longevity too.. Although this one already lasts a good 2mos or so as long as it doesn't sit in water for long.


----------



## beckster51

Dawni said:


> Hallo Hope Ann
> 
> The soleseife I make, use and sell does have RBO at 30%, Shea also 10% like this one, Castor Oil at 5% (1% more than this one), but with coconut oil making up 35%.
> 
> I also use avocado oil at 20% so if you wanna try all the soft oil amount to be just RBO (total 50% in this case) I say go ahead and do it. Let us know the results!
> 
> Soleseifes in general are very hard bars of soap once they're cured, because of the generally high amount of coconut oil used.
> 
> 
> I think the kokum will do a better job than the shea here in hardening your bar, and increase longevity too.. Although this one already lasts a good 2mos or so as long as it doesn't sit in water for long.


I don't make soleseife bars, so I can't comment on that.  This is NOT the softest bar of soap I have ever made.  It is just softer than a bar that has a lot of coconut or other hard oils in it.  It lasts a good period of time if kept dry, as Dawni pointed out.


----------



## KiwiMoose

Just a question Dawni - is your RBO bright yellow/gold (even orange-y) in the bottle?  I always try and buy the lightest coloured brand I can but they're all pretty yellow.  Your soap doesn't seem to have been affected by the colour.


----------



## Dawni

KiwiMoose said:


> Just a question Dawni - is your RBO bright yellow/gold (even orange-y) in the bottle?  I always try and buy the lightest coloured brand I can but they're all pretty yellow.  Your soap doesn't seem to have been affected by the colour.


Yes it is orangey... Like a light honey?


----------



## Dawni

I tweaked the original recipe to add a bit of hardness and longevity to the soap. I wish I remembered to take pics, but it was lovely at just 2 months. I can share if anyone is interested?

I seriously love the texture of this soap in the pot. I made it again, coz I now decided to add it to my shop. Not usual words for HP but it was shiny, and smooth & "silky" which sadly, the video I posted in the other thread didn't really show.

Here's my favourite bar.. Would you look at that beauty lol




And bonus wet soap tops


----------



## Quilter99755

Wow! It's gorgeous! Please share. It makes me want to soap again. I have this recipe and your triple rice on my "to-do" list for when my back lets me soap again. I need to send my kids in Hawaii a soap package soon and that will just about use up my cured soaps. I could use a great soap with a two month cure. I figure if it gets no DOS in the Philippines that it will stand up in Hawaii, too. Not all of the soap that I make in dry Idaho acts the same in Hawaii. LOL


----------



## Dawni

Quilter99755 said:


> I figure if it gets no DOS in the Philippines that it will stand up in Hawaii, too. Not all of the soap that I make in dry Idaho acts the same in Hawaii. LOL


Lol it should I think. Tell em to store it in the most well ventilated part of the house haha. I still have a few bars from the original post - no DOS still and I'm very happy about that.

I dropped the RBO quite a bit, so I also dropped the coconut, to account for additional butters. I like my longevity at 30 and this it what I got.







Cleansing still low, conditioning somewhere in the middle, hardness and longevity good for me. I soaped this batch at 2.5:1 and I could have gone lower since I didn't need to swirl. Didn't need yogurt either and I'm sure you can manage colors and swirls for this recipe without it. Additives aside from salt n sugar are my usual rice powder and coconut milk powder, and nothing else.

Hope you're not struggling too much with your back. Soap can wait


----------



## winusuren

Dawni said:


> Lol it should I think. Tell em to store it in the most well ventilated part of the house haha. I still have a few bars from the original post - no DOS still and I'm very happy about that.
> 
> I dropped the RBO quite a bit, so I also dropped the coconut, to account for additional butters. I like my longevity at 30 and this it what I got.
> View attachment 49777
> View attachment 49778
> 
> Cleansing still low, conditioning somewhere in the middle, hardness and longevity good for me. I soaped this batch at 2.5:1 and I could have gone lower since I didn't need to swirl. Didn't need yogurt either and I'm sure you can manage colors and swirls for this recipe without it. Additives aside from salt n sugar are my usual rice powder and coconut milk powder, and nothing else.
> 
> Hope you're not struggling too much with your back. Soap can wait


Thank you so much for this recipe @Dawni. I live in Tamilnadu and made a batch of Bastille soap with 90% olive oil, 5% of coconut and castor each. I bought the cold pressed olive oil from LimeArt, Coimbatore. While unmoulding the soap after 3 days, the soap smelled very bad and it was fully yellowish in colour. The entire batch got wasted. I don't know what went wrong. I wanted to make a baby soap after that but was afraid to spend too much money. I felt very happy after seeing your recipe as RBO is cheap here..By the way, can I use the same recipe in cold process??


----------



## Dawni

@winusuren that's too bad about the olive oil I wonder if they sold you old stock? I'm aware of Limeart, my SO has visited them and made some inquiries for me (he's from Coimbatore). I'd complain if it was me haha.

Do you have pics of that soap by any chance? You could post them and maybe we all can help figuring out what went wrong. I only throw soap when there really isn't anything else I can do for/with it lol

Yes, you can make this in cold process


----------



## winusuren

Dawni said:


> @winusuren that's too bad about the olive oil I wonder if they sold you old stock? I'm aware of Limeart, my SO has visited them and made some inquiries for me (he's from Coimbatore). I'd complain if it was me haha.
> 
> Do you have pics of that soap by any chance? You could post them and maybe we all can help figuring out what went wrong. I only throw soap when there really isn't anything else I can do for/with it lol
> 
> Yes, you can make this in cold process


Yah I spoke to them but they said we test all our products before packing etc and etc. I didn't want to argue with them so just left it. I've already purchased olive oil and butters before and had no issues. As the oil was unrefined, I think it would have got spoilt. I'm out of station now. After going home, I'll surely post the pics...Thank you for your reply...

Actually I wanted to use unrefined oils for all my soaps as they don't go through any chemical process while extraction but DOS is a major issue...


----------



## Dawni

winusuren said:


> Actually I wanted to use unrefined oils for all my soaps as they don't go through any chemical process while extraction but DOS is a major issue...


I am unaware of any unrefined RBO labeled as such, if it exists at all, just cold processed. I guess you just have to do a ton of research and see what extraction process has been used if its the chemicals you're worried about, but cold processed is what a lot of soapers use I think, also for other products.

Edit: Makes me wonder then if it isn't the oil that's the problem. Did you use up all of that one container?


----------



## winusuren

Dawni said:


> I am unaware of any unrefined RBO labeled as such, if it exists at all, just cold processed. I guess you just have to do a ton of research and see what extraction process has been used if its the chemicals you're worried about, but cold processed is what a lot of soapers use I think, also for other products.


I've searched for unrefined RBO already but as you said, I couldn't find it. I'll try your recipe with a normal RBO available in stores..

I really don't know how many people soap with cold pressed oils without any issues like rancidity or DOS. I'll search the forum..


----------



## beckster51

Dawni said:


> Lol it should I think. Tell em to store it in the most well ventilated part of the house haha. I still have a few bars from the original post - no DOS still and I'm very happy about that.
> 
> I dropped the RBO quite a bit, so I also dropped the coconut, to account for additional butters. I like my longevity at 30 and this it what I got.
> View attachment 49777
> View attachment 49778
> 
> Cleansing still low, conditioning somewhere in the middle, hardness and longevity good for me. I soaped this batch at 2.5:1 and I could have gone lower since I didn't need to swirl. Didn't need yogurt either and I'm sure you can manage colors and swirls for this recipe without it. Additives aside from salt n sugar are my usual rice powder and coconut milk powder, and nothing else.
> 
> Hope you're not struggling too much with your back. Soap can wait


Beautiful, Dawni!  I still have a few bars of my 80% RBO soap, and no DOS.  RBO soap is also my favorite bar these days.  I may have to try your new shared recipe.  I really appreciate how generous you are with your recipes!  How much rice powder and coconut milk powder do you usually add to a batch?  And how much do your batches weigh?



winusuren said:


> I've searched for unrefined RBO already but as you said, I couldn't find it. I'll try your recipe with a normal RBO available in stores..
> 
> I really don't know how many people soap with cold pressed oils without any issues like rancidity or DOS. I'll search the forum..


You can get organic cold pressed RBO from Amazon by the gallon, but I don't know if you have access in India.
I don't usually use cold pressed oil for soap.  It's a wash off product, so I don't think it matters much IMHO.  I save those cold pressed oils for eating.


----------



## ResolvableOwl

Isn't the unrefined RBO very high in free fatty acids, i. e. prone to acceleration/soap-on-a-stick?


----------



## Dawni

beckster51 said:


> I really appreciate how generous you are with your recipes!  How much rice powder and coconut milk powder do you usually add to a batch?  And how much do your batches weigh?


Share the love I always say! You're welcome hehe.. I use about 1.5 teaspoon per 500g. My batches nowadays are usually at about 2kgs more or less, my molds make 20 bars.

I think the only oil I have that's labeled cold processed is Castor Oil and here I've not seen any other. Everything else that's available in my price range isn't CP so I've not used, but logically I do agree that these more costly oils should probably not be spent on a wash off product that the lye will eat up anyway.


----------



## beckster51

Share the love, indeed!  Thanks again, Dawni.


----------



## squarepancakes

@Dawni thanks for sharing! I'm from Singapore, so we're pretty much as hot and humid here (perhaps even worst). Am going to try your recipe this weekend but would like to know what is the purpose of adding coconut milk powder and rice powder to the soap? Will it be okay for me to do without? Also, do you think it would it be possible to CP this soap?


----------



## HoliHealerz

Dawni said:


> I tweaked the original recipe to add a bit of hardness and longevity to the soap. I wish I remembered to take pics, but it was lovely at just 2 months. I can share if anyone is interested?
> 
> I seriously love the texture of this soap in the pot. I made it again, coz I now decided to add it to my shop. Not usual words for HP but it was shiny, and smooth & "silky" which sadly, the video I posted in the other thread didn't really show.
> 
> Here's my favourite bar.. Would you look at that beauty lol
> View attachment 49753
> 
> And bonus wet soap tops
> View attachment 49754


Thats beautiful.  My HP do not turn out as smooth looking.  Sorry this is the only one I could find on the attach method of posting pics.  Any ideas how to get a smoother HP? I do my CP just to achieve smoothness.  Cannot be bothered to wait the time to use.


----------



## Relle

HoliHealerz said:


> I do my CP just to achieve smoothness.  Cannot be bothered to wait the time to use.


You will still have to cure HP as long as cp, so it doesn't save you any time.


----------



## HoliHealerz

Technically, it is ready for use because the saponification is done, ph has been reached and according to all the videos I've watched.  Yes it becomes better but it is safe.
However, I wouod like to kearn of your perspective, perhaps you know somethig that I haven't read or seen.  What is the reason for curing, other than getting harder?



Relle said:


> You will still have to cure HP as long as cp, so it doesn't save you any time.


In addition, the reason to cook soap is to make it go through the process and heat the soap to gel.  No cure NEEDED, but it benefits.  Time saved.


----------



## Janewoc17

KiwiSoap said:


> Thanks for sharing, and yes I'm interested to see how they go for hardness, lather and longevity! Rice bran oil is a cheap oil here, and being it's part of @KiwiMoose's famous soap that I love would be interested to see how it goes pushed to the limits... I'm infusing my calendula using RBO as well (and thinking about it, I have dried chamomile too...)
> 
> I really like your butterfly moulds! (Does not need any more moulds...)


@KiwiMoose famous soap with RBO? Where do I find this recipe, please? I was so thrilled with @Zany_in_CO ’s NSCS I’ve decided to quit digging through my books and start using recipes from the real experts.


----------



## HoliHealerz

Janewoc17 said:


> @KiwiMoose famous soap with RBO? Where do I find this recipe, please? I was so thrilled with @Zany_in_CO ’s NSCS I’ve decided to quit digging through my books and start using recipes from the real experts.


You are lucky.  Where I live, RBO is too expensive but we get inexpensive camel so I cannot complain.  However, I would also use RBO otherwise.


----------



## lianasouza

HoliHealerz said:


> What is the reason for curing, other than getting harder?



@DeeAnna explains it in her blog:




__





						Curing soap | Soapy Stuff
					

Classic Bells restores antique sleigh bells and manufactures bell home decor. Wholesale. Retail.




					classicbells.com


----------



## HoliHealerz

lianasouza said:


> @DeeAnna explains it in her blog:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curing soap | Soapy Stuff
> 
> 
> Classic Bells restores antique sleigh bells and manufactures bell home decor. Wholesale. Retail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> classicbells.com


Thank you for the link. Yes she also says "will be at its _best" and that it is ready to use (99%) but that still beats 4 weeks of unsafe.  To me._


----------



## KiwiMoose

Janewoc17 said:


> @KiwiMoose famous soap with RBO? Where do I find this recipe, please? I was so thrilled with @Zany_in_CO ’s NSCS I’ve decided to quit digging through my books and start using recipes from the real experts.


LOL - KiwiSoap was my number one fan.  He's so lovely to big me up like that.  I just use it in my standard recipe @20%, but lately I've been increasing it to 30% due to the cost of OO escalating ( and actually having no supply during the pandemic).  My liquid oils are OO, RBO, Avocado and Castor (the latter being 5% each).


----------



## DeeAnna

HoliHealerz said:


> ...Thank you for the link. Yes she also says "will be at its _best" and that it is ready to use (99%) but that still beats 4 weeks of unsafe.  To me._



Whoa. I'm the author of the article you appear to be talking about. I have a real problem with the conclusions you've supposedly drawn from my article. In particular your comment about _"4 weeks of unsafe_." For the record, here is what I wrote --

"_....At this point, *I want to debunk the myth that hot process soap is 100% ready to sell right after it is made while CP soap takes weeks to get to that point*. It is true the *HP* "cook"  causes the soap to *fully saponify within a few hours*. And it is true that *CP* soap takes longer; a typical CP soap might need *1-2 days to finish saponifying*. When either soap reaches that stage, they are both technically safe  to use on the skin.... But neither of these soaps will be at their best if used so young -- they will not lather as much, be as physically hard, or last as long as they will after a full cure..._."


----------



## AliOop

DeeAnna said:


> Whoa. I'm the author of the article you appear to be talking about. I have a real problem with the conclusions you've supposedly drawn from my article. In particular your comment about _"4 weeks of unsafe_." For the record, here is what I wrote --
> 
> "_....At this point, *I want to debunk the myth that hot process soap is 100% ready to sell right after it is made while CP soap takes weeks to get to that point*. It is true the *HP* "cook"  causes the soap to *fully saponify within a few hours*. And it is true that *CP* soap takes longer; a typical CP soap might need *1-2 days to finish saponifying*. When either soap reaches that stage, they are both technically safe  to use on the skin.... But neither of these soaps will be at their best if used so young -- they will not lather as much, be as physically hard, or last as long as they will after a full cure..._."


I agree, @DeeAnna your views were completely misrepresented (misunderstood?) by @HoliHealerz.

You were quite clear that both HP and CP soaps are SAFE TO USE within 2 days max. 

But neither is IDEAL TO USE until they have cured for several weeks. It is my experience that HP is especially in need of the extra cure time due to the higher water content.

BIG difference. Words matter.



HoliHealerz said:


> In addition, the reason to cook soap is to make it go through the process and heat the soap to gel.  No cure NEEDED, but it benefits.  Time saved.


Please stop spreading this misinformation. HP soap may be safe to use after cooking, but it is not at its best. Of course, if you aren't selling, you can do whatever you want with your soap. But if you are selling your HP soap right after making it, you are giving all handcrafted soap a bad name because when you don't let it cure, it will melt away quickly and more easily become mushy. 

This problem has turned more people off to handcrafted soap than any other mistake I've seen out there. I can't tell you how many friends and family I've had to beg to try my soap, because they previously paid $$$ for handcrafted soap that didn't last and become super mushy - all because the maker was convinced that "no cure was needed."


----------



## HoliHealerz

DeeAnna said:


> Whoa. I'm the author of the article you appear to be talking about. I have a real problem with the conclusions you've supposedly drawn from my article. In particular your comment about _"4 weeks of unsafe_." For the record, here is what I wrote --
> 
> "_....At this point, *I want to debunk the myth that hot process soap is 100% ready to sell right after it is made while CP soap takes weeks to get to that point*. It is true the *HP* "cook"  causes the soap to *fully saponify within a few hours*. And it is true that *CP* soap takes longer; a typical CP soap might need *1-2 days to finish saponifying*. When either soap reaches that stage, they are both technically safe  to use on the skin.... But neither of these soaps will be at their best if used so young -- they will not lather as much, be as physically hard, or last as long as they will after a full cure..._."


_they are both technically safe to use on the skin.... But neither of these soaps will be at their best if used so young -- they will not lather as much, be as physically hard, or last as long as they will after a full cure..._." 
Just going by your words.  
There was no conclusions drawn, just quotes.  There was no talk about selling - rather about using.  All I said is that I could not be bothered to wait to use.  I never mentioned selling anyway.  I have watched several videos and researched and made several batches of hot process and yes they get harder.  Nothing that I didn't say before or that you didn't.



AliOop said:


> I agree, @DeeAnna your views were completely misrepresented (misunderstood?) by @HoliHealerz.
> 
> You were quite clear that both HP and CP soaps are SAFE TO USE within 2 days max.
> 
> But neither is IDEAL TO USE until they have cured for several weeks. It is my experience that HP is especially in need of the extra cure time due to the higher water content.
> 
> BIG difference. Words matter.
> 
> 
> Please stop spreading this misinformation. HP soap may be safe to use after cooking, but it is not at its best. Of course, if you aren't selling, you can do whatever you want with your soap. But if you are selling your HP soap right after making it, you are giving all handcrafted soap a bad name because when you don't let it cure, it will melt away quickly and more easily become mushy.
> 
> This problem has turned more people off to handcrafted soap than any other mistake I've seen out there. I can't tell you how many friends and family I've had to beg to try my soap, because they previously paid $$$ for handcrafted soap that didn't last and become super mushy - all because the maker was convinced that "no cure was needed."


Actuallly, CP is not completely saponified after 2 days and must go through the process (This is not according to me - but rather every other video and text that I have read.  No where else have I read or seen that anyone said that it is safe to use) but I never discussed CP except to say that I didn't want to wait . - that's it..  I did not misrepresent anything.  I have sold many soap including resales and although I did not even TALK about selling - only using - I use mostly tallow too so my customers have actually commented on how long my soap lasts.  Besides this, I was criticize for saying that I STILL HAVE TO WAIT.  and this is not true - by experience as well as research.  If you are saying that its safe to use - you are the first one I have come across and Im not even arguing about it - but misrepresent - I didn't.



AliOop said:


> I agree, @DeeAnna your views were completely misrepresented (misunderstood?) by @HoliHealerz.
> 
> You were quite clear that both HP and CP soaps are SAFE TO USE within 2 days max.
> 
> But neither is IDEAL TO USE until they have cured for several weeks. It is my experience that HP is especially in need of the extra cure time due to the higher water content.
> 
> BIG difference. Words matter.
> 
> 
> Please stop spreading this misinformation. HP soap may be safe to use after cooking, but it is not at its best. Of course, if you aren't selling, you can do whatever you want with your soap. But if you are selling your HP soap right after making it, you are giving all handcrafted soap a bad name because when you don't let it cure, it will melt away quickly and more easily become mushy.
> 
> This problem has turned more people off to handcrafted soap than any other mistake I've seen out there. I can't tell you how many friends and family I've had to beg to try my soap, because they previously paid $$$ for handcrafted soap that didn't last and become super mushy - all because the maker was convinced that "no cure was needed."


Clearly I DIDNT say I was selling.  I agree words matter - and I was misunderstood from the get go - never mentioned CP nor selling.  I just said I dont want to wait - wait for what? IT was ASSUMED what I meant and thats not my problem.  I use tallow and its rock hard after 18 hours anyway.  But whatever.


----------



## ResolvableOwl

People who don't want to wait for their soap to cure, can still use/make HP liquid soap, or M&P. If there were a short-cut around curing, we would all use it, wouldn't we?

Besides this, I don't feel like this discussion is well placed in a thread that actually started with specifically praising RBO, and how well it stands the test of time. There are so many more oils out there, that can be deprived of a proper cure, that it's the best to start a new thread, FWIW.


----------



## squarepancakes

AliOop said:


> But neither is IDEAL TO USE until they have cured for several weeks.
> 
> Please stop spreading this misinformation. HP soap may be safe to use after cooking, but it is not at its best. Of course, if you aren't selling, you can do whatever you want with your soap. But if you are selling your HP soap right after making it, you are giving all handcrafted soap a bad name because when you don't let it cure, it will melt away quickly and more easily become mushy.



This blog post documents their experiment with cure times and the photos show!! 









						Cure, Cold Process Soap Properties and You! A 30-Day Experiment That Answers the Question: When Can I Use My Soap?
					

Guest post by Amber Beltran of A Squirrel & A Scholar Soap Co. A Squirrel & A Scholar Soap Co. Website Instagram Join Amber's Facebook Group Soap Artistry and High-Top Soap Making For More Tips, Tricks, and Info Join Now & Learn! JUMPING TO CONCLUSIONS Hello crafty companions! For as long as the...




					nurturesoap.com


----------



## AliOop

Thank you, the experiment confirms exactly what I was saying.


----------



## squarepancakes

AliOop said:


> Yes, and the experiment confirms exactly what I was saying... which is the opposite of what you were saying. If you want to post further about this, you really should start your own thread. This thread is supposed to be about RBO.


Hmm? I'm not the @HoliHealerz and never claimed that soap does not require curing. I just thought that this post really illustrated the difference in cure and hence the link.


----------



## AliOop

@squarepancakes  I'm so sorry - was on my phone and absolutely blew that one. Will fix it now.



HoliHealerz said:


> Actuallly, CP is not completely saponified after 2 days and must go through the process (This is not according to me - but rather every other video and text that I have read.  No where else have I read or seen that anyone said that it is safe to use)


Again, that is false information. And again, this is a thread about RBO. Best to start your own thread on the issue, but don't expect you will find much if any agreement about your theories in this group.


----------



## HoliHealerz

squarepancakes said:


> Hmm? I'm not the @HoliHealerz and never claimed that soap does not require curing. I just thought that this post really illustrated the difference in cure and hence the link.


Thank you for pointing out 'difference' in cure.



ResolvableOwl said:


> People who don't want to wait for their soap to cure, can still use/make HP liquid soap, or M&P. If there were a short-cut around curing, we would all use it, wouldn't we?
> 
> Besides this, I don't feel like this discussion is well placed in a thread that actually started with specifically praising RBO, and how well it stands the test of time. There are so many more oils out there, that can be deprived of a proper cure, that it's the best to start a new thread, FWIW.


My original statement was that I often make HP because I couldn't be bothered to wait.  So thank you for this statement.  Yes exactly right.  In CP I won't touch the soap until 4-5 weeks.  HP is my go to when I personally (not commercially) want to use the soap.  My customers are also people who are friends and friends of freidns and I clarify everything for them.  But you pointed out here exactly what I was saying.  Thank you.


----------



## Arimara

HoliHealerz said:


> My original statement was that I often make HP because I couldn't be bothered to wait.  So thank you for this statement.  Yes exactly right.  In CP I won't touch the soap until 4-5 weeks.  HP is my go to when I personally (not commercially) want to use the soap.  My customers are also people who are friends and friends of freidns and I clarify everything for them.  But you pointed out here exactly what I was saying.  Thank you.


You do know that a gelled CP soap is just as usable as a finished HP soap right?


----------



## HoliHealerz

HoliHealerz said:


> My original statement was that I often make HP because I couldn't be bothered to wait.  So thank you for this statement.  Yes exactly right.  In CP I won't touch the soap until 4-5 weeks.  HP is my go to when I personally (not commercially) want to use the soap.  My customers are also people who are friends and friends of freidns and I clarify everything for them.  But you pointed out here exactly what I was saying.  Thank you.


I have also gone


Arimara said:


> You do know that a gelled CP soap is just as usable as a finished HP soap right?


I'm not sure that I do understand it that way because the CP so call experts  say that the CP after gel can dry your skin out whereas they say that the HP is safe and fine to use except for that it can benefit from the evaporation of water whereas they say that the saponification of CP is not completely over.  In addition, I was under the impression that while many soap makers do not actually hit gel phase in their 24-48 or however long liquid oils take to unmold, then I concluded that it is not completely completed unless perhaps the gel phase as is reached in HP has been 'witnessed'.  That is where I am in my understanding.  I wonder why nothing is mentioned about drying skin with HP before 4 week cure.


----------



## ResolvableOwl

HoliHealerz said:


> So thank you for this statement. Yes exactly right.


Why then aren't you making M&P or liquid soap, but insist on bad timing for HP bar soap? Can't you estimate three or four weeks in advance when you'll be about to run out of soap?

I'm only slightly impressed by your talent to misunderstand the key points of others.


----------



## Arimara

HoliHealerz said:


> I have also gone
> 
> I'm not sure that I do understand it that way because the CP so call experts  say that the CP after gel can dry your skin out whereas they say that the HP is safe and fine to use except for that it can benefit from the evaporation of water whereas they say that the saponification of CP is not completely over.  In addition, I was under the impression that while many soap makers do not actually hit gel phase in their 24-48 or however long liquid oils take to unmold, then I concluded that it is not completely completed unless perhaps the gel phase as is reached in HP has been 'witnessed'.  That is where I am in my understanding.  I wonder why nothing is mentioned about drying skin with HP before 4 week cure.


Then I will point it out this way- those CP soap experts you are mentioning are talking out their bootyholes. Everything you mentioned about gelled CP soap is fact for HP soaps as well. Only differences between a gelled CP soap and a HP soap is that the saponification with HP soaps happens with an hour or two. CP soap, especially if an oven is used at 170 F, generally takes a few hours. If you still don't wanna do that than at least test the theory your self. Take two soaps from your HP batch, weigh them and then let one of them cure for at least 4 weeks while you use the other one(s). You will most definitely have your answer by then.

I also have to agree with @ResolvedOwl- You would do well to use M&P soaps if you can't be bothered with curing your soap. You'd be less likely to develop dermatitis with M&P as opposed to using raw HP soap.


----------



## HoliHealerz

ResolvableOwl said:


> Why then aren't you making M&P or liquid soap, but insist on bad timing for HP bar soap? Can't you estimate three or four weeks in advance when you'll be about to run out of soap?
> 
> I'm only slightly impressed by your talent to misunderstand the key points of others.





Arimara said:


> Then I will point it out this way- those CP soap experts you are mentioning are talking out their bootyholes. Everything you mentioned about gelled CP soap is fact for HP soaps as well. Only differences between a gelled CP soap and a HP soap is that the saponification with HP soaps happens with an hour or two. CP soap, especially if an oven is used at 170 F, generally takes a few hours. If you still don't wanna do that than at least test the theory your self. Take two soaps from your HP batch, weigh them and then let one of them cure for at least 4 weeks while you use the other one(s). You will most definitely have your answer by then.
> 
> I also have to agree with @ResolvedOwl- You would do well to use M&P soaps if you can't be bothered with curing your soap. You'd be less likely to develop dermatitis with M&P as opposed to using raw HP soap.


Ill get back to this later but M&P - Unless Im making the M&P base, I do not personally consider it creating soap, rather adjusting and existing set of oils.  So no thanks, not for creation.  
When I said cannot be bothered, I was referring to understanding a new formula through use. Thats all.  It is not that I run out of soap or I need to sell or dont have or any other assumptions that may be drawn.  I was referring to obtaining a particular understanding.  Soaping to me is not a business but a university of experience.


----------



## ResolvableOwl

HoliHealerz said:


> Unless Im making the M&P base


Then make it yourself. I made M&P base yesterday, took some five hours (with many other distractions in between) from the oils to solid, usable M&P bars. If you are focused, you can easily do it in under three hours.

Bad news: it still greatly profits (lather, transparency, hardness) from a week of just sitting around, and then re-melting.


----------



## HoliHealerz

ResolvableOwl said:


> Then make it yourself. I made M&P base yesterday, took some five hours (with many other distractions in between) from the oils to solid, usable M&P bars. If you are focused, you can easily do it in under three hours.
> 
> Bad news: it still greatly profits (lather, transparency, hardness) from a week of just sitting around, and then re-melting.


I have been researching for the best method but also over here glycerine is quite expensive from what I have found so far.  I'm waiting and searching.   As I said, its not the waiting for sales or use per se that I was impatient for, rather to understand the conclusion.  So I cooked the soap.  Yes I know that CP can also be tested but from my comclusions so far, HP is still less drying and closer to correct conclusion after two days than the CP.  No one wants to be misunderstood and jumping to conclusions of my INTENTION behind not 'being bothered' to wait, does not help to reach correct analytical conclusion, everything else after that becomes off mark.  Just a tip for future.

I appreciate all the information that you all provide and use them in my knowledge bank.  I would like to try M&P.soon and everything else happened fast so this will too.  In the beginning I couldnt find sodium hydroxide so whioe searching (translation and language issues) I just found a natural and began my rebatching.  And yes EVEN THAT must be waited for even though it is not due to the lye.  But that took off after my very first batch and although I was not planning to sell, i just wanted experience and my own natural soaps.  The orders literally rolled in.  Then I went to CP and immediately to HP.  And LS.  My hair product (40+ ingredients) I had been making and presenting on my segment on a TV show along with matural masks around 3 and a half years ago. But soap came later.
So Ill get to M&P.
Thank you all for your help and keeping me ony feet, challenging me etc.  Its healthy for the soul.
Well done on making your own.  Well respected.


----------



## ResolvableOwl

HoliHealerz said:


> rebatching.  And yes EVEN THAT must be waited for *even though* it is not due to the lye.


It's statements like this that make me wonder if you know what you are talking about, or, as a matter of fact, what _we_ are talking about all the time. Curing never has been about lye. Not in rebatching, but neither in CP nor HP. If you had listened with good intentions, and allowed your allegedly curious and scientific mind to absorb the statements you were told from the very beginning of this discussion, things would have been much easier.


----------



## HoliHealerz

ResolvableOwl said:


> It's statements like this that make me wonder if you know what you are talking about, or, as a matter of fact, what _we_ are talking about all the time. Curing never has been about lye. Not in rebatching, but neither in CP nor HP. If you had listened with good intentions, and allowed your allegedly curious and scientific mind to absorb the statements you were told from the very beginning of this discussion, things would have been much easier.


I try to cut things short and ASSUME that I do not need to go into details.  But if you had understood properly you would have understood equally as well what I meant in short hand.  I will explain.  The rebatchnwent through curing already and does not need curing but only drying.  Are you intentionally trying to misunderstand, twist or pick at words.  I hope not.  The only thing I do not have here is years of experience but i DO KNOW that good teachers are also humble rather than offensive and overly scrutinizing.  Peace out.


----------



## ResolvableOwl

To me, this statement sounds sarcastic and full of wrong allegations. If you think this is an appropriate tone at this place, please elaborate.


----------



## HoliHealerz

ResolvableOwl said:


> To me, this statement sounds sarcastic and full of wrong allegations. If you think this is an appropriate tone at this place, please elaborate.


I cannot help how you receive facts.


----------



## HoliHealerz

HoliHealerz said:


> I cannot help how you receive facts.


Was it not YOU who Questioned MY intentions? 
"If you had listened with good intentions, and allowed your allegedly curious and scientific mind to absorb the statements you were told from the very beginning of this discussion, things would have been much easier. "


----------



## HoliHealerz

HoliHealerz said:


> Was it not YOU who Questioned MY intentions?
> "If you had listened with good intentions, and allowed your allegedly curious and scientific mind to absorb the statements you were told from the very beginning of this discussion, things would have been much easier. "


If this is not sarcasm - then my response definitely wasn't.
But I really  am not here for dispute neither do I need to defend anything that I DO or do not understand much less my intentions.  And it is not your place to judge them either. So peace out.


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## HoliHealerz

I find it interesting how others begin to question why another  is making or is  not making something based on reasons that they put forth in their own mind.  If I want to make M&P - I will and if I do not - then I won't.  I certainly do not need to give reasons to those who THINK they know what I should be doing.


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## HoliHealerz

ResolvableOwl said:


> It's statements like this that make me wonder if you know what you are talking about, or, as a matter of fact, what _we_ are talking about all the time. Curing never has been about lye. Not in rebatching, but neither in CP nor HP. If you had listened with good intentions, and allowed your allegedly curious and scientific mind to absorb the statements you were told from the very beginning of this discussion, things would have been much easier.


Here again you insist on being quite unnecessarily condescending and critical.  Just purely unkind.


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## ResolvableOwl

Why not stop present yourself as the victim? Why not at least _attempt_ to listen, and become topical again? Sorry if I misunderstood you, it might well be that you meant statements of the form “quite unnecessarily condescending and critical. Just purely unkind.” as deescalating?


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## HoliHealerz

I am just not into politics so Im out.


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## ResolvableOwl

Dunno, the topic was rice bran oil, not politics.


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## HoliHealerz

ResolvableOwl said:


> Dunno, the topic was rice bran oil, not politics.


Then stick to topic.


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## ResolvableOwl

I find it truly hilarious how YOU tell ME to stick to topic. I was trying to clarify obvious misconceptions on your side about lye consumption, evaporation, CP and HP. And the best you come up with, is very rude _non sequitur_ BS.

Do you think that it's okay to apply such double standards?


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## HoliHealerz

Arimara said:


> Then I will point it out this way- those CP soap experts you are mentioning are talking out their bootyholes. Everything you mentioned about gelled CP soap is fact for HP soaps as well. Only differences between a gelled CP soap and a HP soap is that the saponification with HP soaps happens with an hour or two. CP soap, especially if an oven is used at 170 F, generally takes a few hours. If you still don't wanna do that than at least test the theory your self. Take two soaps from your HP batch, weigh them and then let one of them cure for at least 4 weeks while you use the other one(s). You will most definitely have your answer by then.
> 
> I also have to agree with @ResolvedOwl- You would do well to use M&P soaps if you can't be bothered with curing your soap. You'd be less likely to develop dermatitis with M&P as opposed to using raw HP soap.


Twisting words seems to be a thing around here


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## Hope Ann

HoliHealerz said:


> Twisting words seems to be a thing around here



Please take this to another thread.  If you don't want to learn, fine, but can you please at least start your own thread rather than hijacking this one on RBO soap?  When I'm studying the oil and refer back to this thread I'd like to be able access the wealth of knowledge without scrolling through multiple pages of nothingness.

Hope


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## Arimara

Hope Ann said:


> Please take this to another thread.  If you don't want to learn, fine, but can you please at least start your own thread rather than hijacking this one on RBO soap?  When I'm studying the oil and refer back to this thread I'd like to be able access the wealth of knowledge without scrolling through multiple pages of nothingness.
> 
> Hope


I was about to break out the popcorn reading up to this. How is your research coming along? Did anything else pique your interest?


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