# Does anyone use hyaluronic or ascorbic acid?



## Healinya (Feb 5, 2010)

I have been wanting to try it for awhile now, but don't really find much to get me started. I wanted to try a decent night cream base (probably from aqua-tech) and add ascorbic acid to it. I'm wondering how fast the vitamin c will last (I've heard that all vitamin c in a product is gone by the third time you open it) and I want to try their day cream with the hyaluronic. Does anyone have experience with either? I can't seem to find much...


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## Hazel (Feb 8, 2010)

I'm interested in this learning more about them, too.


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## Healinya (Feb 8, 2010)

Well here are a few snippets of info that I have saved on it (mostly from skininc) I guess I should just start doing it, without waiting to see if another has. I can make 1/4 teaspoon ascorbic acid, 1 teaspoon water, 1 teaspoon glycerin - simple enough. Put it on at night, follow with night cream - that should work, or at least get me started..

Ascorbic acid:
Vitamin C. An antioxidant that is also used as a pH adjuster and as a preservative in cosmetics. 

Care Following the Use of Physical Irritants 
Scrubs are essentially mini-peels that can result in small tears in the skin surface, which reduce protection from oxidizing elements and which can allow bacterial access. To help protect the skin after the use of any exfoliation - in the treatment room or at home - skin barrier repair, Antioxidants, and trans-epidermal sealing moisturizers are critical. 
Probably the most protective ingredient you can apply to the skin to help reduce oxidative damage and stimulate normal activity, including collagen production, is a powerful but appropriate Antioxidant in nature-identical form. I recommend Vitamin C in its ascorbic acid form because this is what nature uses to protect the reproductive process from the oxidizing environment. In nature, every seed is thoroughly surrounded by vitamin C as it develops, as is every cell. Adding ascorbic acid to compromised skin is intended to help to recreate the optimum environment for cellular reproduction.
When choosing an ascorbic acid product for this purpose, however, be aware of two things: First, choose a product that you activate at the point of application to ensure that you have a minmum of 10 percent active C in the product. Premixed vitamin C is very difficult to stabilize and will decrease in potency over time. A good indicator of the potency of a vitamin C product is color: If the product is starting to turn yellow or brown, the vitamin C has aged and may no longer be active. 
Second, know that areas on the skin usually will sting slightly when vitamin C is applied following exposure to a barrier irritant. This is not a bad thing; it is an indicator that the surface layers now contain weak or compromised areas that are sensitive to the mild acidity in the vitamin C. 
Restoring moisture to the skin after irritating treatments is important, but the choice of hydrators is complicated by the added ingredients included in most formulas, which may cause greater irritation or adversely affect healing. Skin is very resilient and, as a general rule, creating an environment conducive to the skin's natural functions for self-hydration and healing will get the best results. 
To accomplish this, follow the antioxidant application with a five percent vitamin E deep moisturizer that produces a good trans-epidermal seal, or with another option such as jojoba oil, if your client has an inflammatory condition such as Rosacea or acne. (Vitamin E oil can exacerbate these advanced conditions and can be moderately comedogenic in oily-prone skin.) The trans-epidermal seal will retain moisture and help to replenish the lipids which hold the stratum corneum together. 
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To set the record straight, natural and synthetic vitamin C are chemically identical, and there appears to be no clinically significant difference in either the bioavailability or the bioactivity.
Pure vitamin C or crystalline form. Pure vitamin C is L-ascorbic acid. The L designation refers to how the molecule rotates light. It is interesting that although almost all natural sugars, such as glucose, are D forms, ascorbic acid, which is derived from glucose, is an L form. Crystalline ascorbic acid dissolves easily in water and may have a very faint tinge of yellow. If exposed to air for several hours to several days, it will turn yellow in the presence of iron that may be in the water. Most water-soluble preparations of ascorbic acid will oxidize and turn yellow throughout time unless something is added to control oxidation. Ferulic acid, an antioxidant, is used in one form of aqueous vitamin C to help reduce the oxidation. It takes high levels of crystalline ascorbic acid to penetrate the skin, approximately 5-15%. Preparations of more than 15% tend to be irritating to the skin. The pH should be no higher than 3 in these preparations.
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In previous articles about free radicals, I have discussed the adverse effects of reactive oxygen species (ROS) on skin constituents. In this article we will look closely at an old and well-known anti-free radical substance, Vitamin C. The role of Vitamin C goes far beyond the early but very important discoveries; by now it is well understood that Vitamin C is an antioxidant and free radical scavenger. 

It is impossible to prevent the release of free radicals, but free radical scavengers, like Vitamin C, are critical for the control of these "loose cannons". The control of free radicals is essential to delaying the extrinsic (developed) signs of ageing, and may yet prove to have a modifying effect on intrinsic ageing. 

The ascorbate version of Vitamin C works directly in the cytoplasmic fluid of the cell, and interacts with Vitamin E and other fat-soluble antioxidants. These are in the lipid-rich areas of the cell. Together they bind to free radicals before they have a chance to damage or undermine the tissue. 
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Environmental Defense Using Vitamin C 
1. As an antioxidant Vitamin C, most commonly in the form of ascorbic acid (or L-ascorbic acid which represents a lipid-encased version of ascorbic), and especially when enhanced by bioflavonoids, is a powerful free radical scavenger. 
Seeking out and binding to potentially dangerous errant molecules created by the sun, the environment, make-up, smoking, exercise, or normal everyday chemical reactions to the body, Vitamin C will help minimise the impact of everyday environmental damage 

2. Vitamin C in the Ascorbyl form has been tested extensively and was reported in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (Jan '96) to inhibit the production of melanin even in the presence of tyrosine. UVA/UVB exposure will cause depletion of the Vitamin C level in the skin, leaving one at risk to poorer healing and photo-induced damage. 
Further studies showed that Vitamin C also disrupts the production of Collagenase and Hyaluronidase. These enzymes separate the long chains of glycosaminoglycan (intercellular fluid) and digest collagen. The action of these is necessary and during most of our lives remains in balance with the production of collagen and extra cellular matrix material. 
The studies all substantiate topical Vitamin C application as prevention against cell damage and extrinsic/intrinsic ageing. 

3. In the ascorbate form, research demonstrates that special forms of Vitamin C act as a Collagen `type 3' production booster. As important, it appears to strengthen collagen strands, making them more resilient. Further studies concluded that mineral ascorbate appeared to be absorbed better and last longer in the tissues than normal Vitamin C (ascorbic). Further studies in which Vitamin C was added to cultured human fibroblasts found that collagen synthesis was 8 times faster. Such increases of collagen formation improve the strength of the dermal network. 

4. As we age and cellular functions begin to decline, researchers have determined that we suffer both loss of growth factor, and a decline in receptor sites which are an intricate part of the bio-molecular processes of renewal and regeneration. Investigators have concluded that in its role as a co-factor, Vitamin C stimulates receptor sites and makes it possible for a greater number of growth factors to attach to the individual cells. Through this process, metabolic activity of the cells improves and more youthful-like metabolic activity is seen. 
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Hyaluronic acid: A protein occurring in the skin. Known as a water binder, it is able to bind 1000 times its weight in water.

9 Top Cosmetic Treatments for Aging Skin

No one likes looking older…which is why we spend billions of dollars every year on over-the-counter products, prescription creams and fillers, and, most drastically, cosmetic surgery. Do any of these actually work to reduce the signs of aging? In many cases, yes-at least temporarily. But given the not-inconsiderable costs (and in the case of surgery and some procedures, the risks), it's important to be smart in your choices
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7. Filler injections
Injections of fillers containing hyaluronic acid can fill in lines and wrinkles and add volume to skin. Hyaluronic acid is a "naturally occurring sugar that gets lost when you age," and injecting it into wrinkles effectively plumps them up, says Baumann. The average cost of hyaluronic acid treatment was $589 in 2008, according to the AACS, and the effects generally last between six months and a year.
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Hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid naturally occurs in the skin. It moisturizes, aids in healing superficial fissures due to the fragility of mature skin and can hold 100 times its weight in water. Sugar beets are an excellent nonanimal source of hyaluronic acid.
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Hyaluronic acid (HA), also known as glycosaminoglycan, is gaining popularity as an anti-aging dietary supplement. HA is present in both the dermis and epidermis and maintains high levels of water in the inner layers of the skin. As we age, HA production decreases, making both topical and internal supplementation a wise choice.


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## Zenobiah (Feb 8, 2010)

Interesting stuff. Worth a shot, but I am a skeptic so I am unsure it will have an effect on your skin.


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## Healinya (Feb 8, 2010)

Zenobiah said:
			
		

> Interesting stuff. Worth a shot, but I am a skeptic so I am unsure it will have an effect on your skin.



What kind of effect? Our bodies make these on their own, as we age they are depleted and our bodies are less able to reproduce (we even make our own free radicals). If you are referring to actually seeing a visual improvement in the skin's appearence, then yes, that's where I am looking for guidance. I have seen the difference hyaluronic acid had on my skin (I have ordered ampoules from a pro company before) and I have seen the results firsthand from many people. Only thing is they all used professional grade products - and I'm wondering if a home crafter can come even close.... What you buy in the local stores is so diluted, both for profit reasons and as a caution in case a consumer misuses it, has a reaction and sues. But some of my favorite facial products are up to and above $80, so if I could find a way to get those magic ingredients into my skin then I can spare the fancy name on the box.


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## archdunk (Mar 18, 2011)

Healinya said:
			
		

> Zenobiah said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



how was it? someon recommended this but like you im skeptic. id like to ask those who had experience with it firsthand for me to be convinced.


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## dubnica (Mar 30, 2011)

I made this a few times:

Kassy's C+E ferulic serum

What you need for 1oz C,E, Ferulic 15%; 
- 2 glass shot glasses 
- 1oz cobalt or amber dropper or pump bottle 
- 1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid 
- 1/4 tsp (1 ml) Vitamin E (equals 1%) 
- .5% of Ferulic Acid (1 good pinch) 
- 2 tsp SKB (Sea Kelp Bioferment) 
- 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water 
- 1/2 tsp of vodka

I am not sufre if it did anything for me though....but people rave about this serum.


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