# Soap turns white in colder temps.



## Persofit (Nov 4, 2017)

Hello Soapers, 

Has anyone figured out how to keep liquid soap from turning white in colder temps? ( I figure its the fats in the oils that turns white, because when reheated it turns transparent again) 
I also noticed that the lower the ph the quicker it turns white. 

Any other ideas?

Thank you


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## Susie (Nov 4, 2017)

Nope, it clouds up in the cooler temps.  Nothing seems to stop it.  I just accept it as part of hand made soap's charm and go on with life.  It does not affect the function of the soap after all.


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## cherrycoke216 (Nov 4, 2017)

Is it saponified stearic acid and palmitic acid? 
Just a wild guess here. [emoji14]


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## Susie (Nov 5, 2017)

No idea.  We will need to wait for DeeAnna to explain.


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## Saranac (Nov 5, 2017)

Persofit said:


> Hello Soapers,
> 
> Has anyone figured out how to keep liquid soap from turning white in colder temps? ( I figure its the fats in the oils that turns white, because when reheated it turns transparent again)
> I also noticed that the lower the ph the quicker it turns white.
> ...



As Susie says, it's just one of those things that makes LS unique, and it in no way affects the performance of the soap.  When I ship LS during colder months, I make sure to let the recipient know that it might go white and cloudy, but letting it warm up will bring the clarity back.

Every formula is different--and every formula has its own cloud point.  As was mentioned, the palmitic/stearic acid content plays a big part; the more of those in your soap, the higher the cloud point.  A higher SF can also raise the cloud point as can high levels of unsaponifiables.

Adding glycerin (the glycerin method) will help to lower the cloud point as glycerin acts as a solvent.  I also find that small amounts of rosin go a long ways towards lower the cloud point.

As for pH, I would imagine that if you're intentionally trying to drop the pH, you're probably reverting some of the soap back to fatty acids; this will essentially raise your SF and the cloud point.

Would you consider posting your formula?


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## Persofit (Nov 13, 2017)

Yes I will post a few things I found during testing. It may take me a couple of days to post.


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## DeeAnna (Nov 13, 2017)

What Saranac said -- good stuff there!


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## Persofit (Nov 20, 2017)

Saranac said:


> As Susie says, it's just one of those things that makes LS unique, and it in no way affects the performance of the soap.  When I ship LS during colder months, I make sure to let the recipient know that it might go white and cloudy, but letting it warm up will bring the clarity back.
> 
> Every formula is different--and every formula has its own cloud point.  As was mentioned, the palmitic/stearic acid content plays a big part; the more of those in your soap, the higher the cloud point.  A higher SF can also raise the cloud point as can high levels of unsaponifiables.
> 
> ...



I use 23% Coconut oil, 33% Castor and 44% Olive oil which gives me 33% Oleic, 30% Ricinoleic, 11% Lauric fatty acids. ( 2% superfat) 

I found out that a PH of 9 makes the soap resist just as good as Dr.Bonners soap but PH lower than that the soap turns white pretty fast this time of year. 

I have become an expert of volcanos as well. ( sorry the picture is sideways )


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## LaureLive (Nov 26, 2017)

Hello , it is actually a prove that you have natural soap without synthetic agents , imagine pure olive oil that its own characteristic properties, Olive Oil turns thick and cloudy in the lower temperatures, you can fix these adding synthetic agents like other surfactants but believe me this is not necessary, have a nice soapy day !!


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## Susie (Nov 26, 2017)

Persofit said:


> I use 23% Coconut oil, 33% Castor and 44% Olive oil which gives me 33% Oleic, 30% Ricinoleic, 11% Lauric fatty acids. ( 2% superfat)
> 
> I found out that a PH of 9 makes the soap resist just as good as Dr.Bonners soap but PH lower than that the soap turns white pretty fast this time of year.
> 
> I have become an expert of volcanos as well. ( sorry the picture is sideways )



I have had many a VERY CLEAN kitchen floor days.  Your picture says you know exactly what I mean, LOL.  One time saying, "I'll check it in a couple of minutes..." and you get to mop the floor.


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## Saranac (Nov 26, 2017)

Susie said:


> I have had many a VERY CLEAN kitchen floor days.  Your picture says you know exactly what I mean, LOL.  One time saying, "I'll check it in a couple of minutes..." and you get to mop the floor.



:headbanging:  I can't believe I'm going to admit this. . . .

When I first started making LS (well over 10 years ago!) I was still diluting my paste by putting it in a pan of water and gently heating and stirring it on the (electric) range in my kitchen.  I've since switched to a very lazy method.   I dump all the paste into a bucket, add water and wait.  When I think about it, I give it a stir.

Well, I put the pan on the stove, turned the heat down to low and went about my business. . . . which ultimately led to my fiance (DH now) and I leaving to go grocery shopping.

(I never turned the burner off.)

We came home to our 2-story apartment FULL of acrid black smoke; the pan had boiled over and burnt.  The stove was covered, the pan was ruined, and the apartment. . . .  We had to wash EVERYTHING!  Curtains, clothing, bedding.  Nothing was left untouched by the smoke.  For some reason the fire alarm never went off, which was either a blessing or a curse.  I thank God we didn't have any pets at the time.

And for good measure:  :headbanging:

I'm much more careful these days.  I learned the hard way not to ever walk away.  And if I do, I set a LOUD timer for no more than 2 minutes.  And I check EVERYTHING before leaving the house.


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## Saponista (Nov 27, 2017)

I had real troubles with this. I made it in foamer bottles and left it out for the people at work. There’s no heating and it’s an old 16th century water mill so it gets really cold. A white precipitate formed and clogged up the nozzle so it stopped working.


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