# Lining a soap mold



## fightingirish (Dec 5, 2014)

Hi guys. Has anyone tried super gluing a Teflon oven liner to a wood mold?  Just curious if it'd work. I'd rather do that than line it with freezer paper every time. Thanks!


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## The Efficacious Gentleman (Dec 5, 2014)

I was toying with using silicon for the same sort of thing but now I'm looking at using mylar for the same idea.

For what it's worth, I have cut a piece of cardboard to fir exactly the bottom of my mould.  I put it in the middle of a the paper and use a finger nail to score the edges, then I fold it over on these edges and it fit's perfectly with very little time invested.


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## fightingirish (Dec 6, 2014)

FYI:  the oven liner does NOT work!  I tried it and the loaf stuck to the liner. I had to take my mold apart to get the loaf out.


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## IrishLass (Dec 6, 2014)

Oh no! Is your wood mold the collapsible-type of mold that's built to come apart, or did you have to actually pry it apart? Hopefully it was the former and not the latter! 

For what it's worth, all my wood molds are the collapsible-type, and to line them, I like to use either heat-resistant quilter's mylar which I cut to fit (it lasts for years!), or silicone fondant mats (also cut to fit and lasts for years). And sometimes I use bubble wrap, too. It just depends on the type of look I'm going for.

I used to line with freezer paper, which works great, but it became such a hassle for me to have to cut them out all the time. What's nice about the mylar and silicone fondant mats is that they only need to be cut out once. Other advantages worth mentioning are that I can CPOP with them, they are washable, and they last forever. They also peel away smoothly and easily from my soap.


IrishLass


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## abc (Dec 6, 2014)

What do you use to attach the mylar or silicone mat to the mold?


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## IrishLass (Dec 6, 2014)

I just dab some Vaseline or mineral oil to the back of the liners to tack them into place.


 IrishLass


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## JustBeachy (Dec 6, 2014)

I'm notating that little gem, it may come in handy, especially since you can CPOP with them. 

The bubble wrap idea just sounds way cool.


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## Jstar (Dec 6, 2014)

You can also use those poly 3 ring school binders..the really flexible ones. This link is for dollar tree, but you can pick them up just about anywhere for super cheap.

http://www.dollartree.com/Brightly-Colored-Flexible-Poly-3-Ring-Binders-1-/p342004/index.pro

Or if you dont mind a few wrinkles on the outside of your soap {or you own a planer} you can use trashbags and some tape, or clips to hold the edges back around your mold..

I use a plastic grocery bag for my tester molds and a large rubber band to hold it.


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## DeeAnna (Dec 7, 2014)

On the same idea as Jstar's, I use those thin, flexible cutting mats sold for use in the kitchen to cut up veggies. I think the mats are made of the same stuff as the school binders. http://smile.amazon.com/CounterArt-...-Assorted/dp/B00337YF7Q?&tag=amazonsmile01-20

You don't want to permanently glue the liners to the mold, by the way. I think that's a bit of a confusing point in this thread. The liners will adhere to the soap, so you will end up removing the soap and liner from the mold, then you gently peel the liner off the soap.

If you need some temporary help to keep the liner pieces fixed in place before you pour the soap into the mold, use Irish Lass' tip about vaseline.


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## IrishLass (Dec 7, 2014)

Ditto what DeeAnna said ^^^ (thanks for clarifying that, DeeAnna). There's no way my mylar liners or silicone fondant liners would ever release my soap from their clinging embrace without me first collapsing my molds and then peeling off the liners. For what it's worth, the liners peel off my soap quite effortlessly and nicely, leaving behind a smooth, glassy-like surface on my soap. I should mention at this point that I gel my soaps and use sodium lactate in all my batches (which makes a difference in how easily and smoothly they peel off).

 IrishLass 


 IrishLass


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## Jstar (Dec 7, 2014)

> I use those thin, flexible cutting mats sold for use in the kitchen to  cut up veggies



Oh my gosh! I have one of those and didn't even realize it LOL...its really long so I can cut it in several pieces....eh, who needs to cut up veggies anywayz


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## Dorado (Dec 8, 2014)

Try hot laminating pouches.
Works for me, cheep, can be washed many times.

I use it for the pipemold and pringlesmold too, little longer than the mold, no problems pulling the soap out of it.


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## The Efficacious Gentleman (Dec 8, 2014)

I'm wondering if some of these thinner plastics (bin bags, for example) and laminating sheets would hold up in CPOP?  I'm thinking maybe not, but would be interested to know if anyone does use them in CPOP with no issues


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## Dorado (Dec 8, 2014)

The Efficacious Gentleman said:


> I'm wondering if some of these thinner plastics (bin bags, for example) and laminating sheets would hold up in CPOP?  I'm thinking maybe not, but would be interested to know if anyone does use them in CPOP with no issues



 No issues here, I use 80 mic. Becomes pretty stiff after heating in the laminator.


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## Jstar (Dec 8, 2014)

I dont cpop often, and haven't tried it yet, but I would _think_ if you're using a wooden mold and trim the bin bags to where they dont stick up past the mold too much it would work ok..when I cpop my oven is not actually 'on' anymore so its not really hot enough to melt anything or catch on fire.

The laminate should be fine as well since its even thicker.

Don't quote me on it, because like I said, I haven't tried it...yet


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## Luckyone80 (Dec 8, 2014)

Does anyone have pictures of their lined molds? I'm having a heck of a time visualizing using binders and other plastics as liners.


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## Jstar (Dec 8, 2014)

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## fightingirish (Dec 9, 2014)

Luckyone80 said:


> Does anyone have pictures of their lined molds? I'm having a heck of a time visualizing using binders and other plastics as liners.




Lol!  Thanks for asking, I was also wondering how to line a mold with a binder!  I'm interested in seeing the pictures. Anything that would prevent me from having to line a mold with freezer paper or parchment paper every time!  That is tedious.


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## Luckyone80 (Dec 9, 2014)

I'm just wondering...I guess you cut the binder and/or other plastics to fit the mold, so you would cut one piece for the bottom, another piece for one of the sides, another piece for the other side, another piece for the front and another for the back? How do they all stay together and how do they prevent leakage?


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## Sonya-m (Dec 9, 2014)

I was wondering this too


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## Dorado (Dec 9, 2014)

Sorry my camera does not work. 
 My laminate sheet is cut as the paper here:
http://www.soap-making-resource.com/line-wooden-soap-molds.html
 but only 1 inch higher than the mold, so I do not have fold down the outside.


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## DeeAnna (Dec 9, 2014)

Some people try to tape the liner pieces together, but they really don't have to stick together. You lay the bottom piece in the bottom, and set the side pieces against the sides of the mold. If you want, use some dabs of petroleum jelly to keep the side pieces in place while you pour the soap. (I don't use petroleum jelly, but some do.) Once the soap is poured, the pressure of the soap holds the pieces in place.

I also cut the liner pieces very slightly undersized so they slip easily into place in the mold. If the liner is a wee bit too large, it will bow out of position (taped or not!) and mar the soap.


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## fightingirish (Dec 14, 2014)

DeeAnna said:


> On the same idea as Jstar's, I use those thin, flexible cutting mats sold for use in the kitchen to cut up veggies. I think the mats are made of the same stuff as the school binders. http://smile.amazon.com/CounterArt-...-Assorted/dp/B00337YF7Q?&tag=amazonsmile01-20
> 
> You don't want to permanently glue the liners to the mold, by the way. I think that's a bit of a confusing point in this thread. The liners will adhere to the soap, so you will end up removing the soap and liner from the mold, then you gently peel the liner off the soap.




Oh my gosh DeeAnna!  That's s great idea!  I cut some last night to fit my mold and I'm going to try it out today, along with color for my first time!  Thanks for the idea!


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## DeeAnna (Dec 14, 2014)

I sure hope it works for you!


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## maxine289 (Sep 13, 2017)

Luckyone80 said:


> I'm just wondering...I guess you cut the binder and/or other plastics to fit the mold, so you would cut one piece for the bottom, another piece for one of the sides, another piece for the other side, another piece for the front and another for the back? How do they all stay together and how do they prevent leakage?



I was wondering how to prevent leakage also. I cut up a silicone baking sheet to fit the mold but the batter was at thin trace and leaked at the edges where the pieces came together. Is there a way to prevent leaking?  Was able to peel the silicone off easily and no hassle of having to line with paper but the inside of the mold was a mess!


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## Kittish (Sep 13, 2017)

maxine289 said:


> I was wondering how to prevent leakage also. I cut up a silicone baking sheet to fit the mold but the batter was at thin trace and leaked at the edges where the pieces came together. Is there a way to prevent leaking?  Was able to peel the silicone off easily and no hassle of having to line with paper but the inside of the mold was a mess!



Paper corners maybe? Nowhere near as much hassle as fully lining a mold with paper.

I just ordered some silicone baking mats and some teflon sheets to try out as mold liners. I'm not happy with the continued performance of the plastic cutting mat liners I made for my molds.


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## cherrycoke216 (Sep 14, 2017)

Kittish said:


> Paper corners maybe? Nowhere near as much hassle as fully lining a mold with paper.
> 
> I just ordered some silicone baking mats and some teflon sheets to try out as mold liners. I'm not happy with the continued performance of the plastic cutting mat liners I made for my molds.




I think Teflon won't work. Because I have googled it earlier and found out it will be eaten by lye.


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## Kittish (Sep 14, 2017)

cherrycoke216 said:


> I think Teflon won't work. Because I have googled it earlier and found out it will be eaten by lye.



I'm looking for information on that, and all I can find indicates that teflon is relatively inert to lye, until you get up into temperatures around 300*C. There is one unconfirmed report that I could find of anyone using lye to remove teflon from cookware. There's also an old report from here that indicates that CP soap might stick to teflon, though another respondant in the thread says they don't have problems with teflon liners. 

Do you have any links to your information?


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## cherrycoke216 (Sep 14, 2017)

Kittish said:


> I'm looking for information on that, and all I can find indicates that teflon is relatively inert to lye, until you get up into temperatures around 300*C. There is one unconfirmed report that I could find of anyone using lye to remove teflon from cookware. There's also an old report from here that indicates that CP soap might stick to teflon, though another respondant in the thread says they don't have problems with teflon liners.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any links to your information?




https://books.google.com.tw/books?i...EILTAG#v=onepage&q=teflon lye NaOH eat&f=true
Susan Cavitch soapmaker's companion
P.17 
I use google, keyword " lye eat Teflon ,NaOH" & it pops up the p.17 with highlighted keywords.


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## Kittish (Sep 14, 2017)

cherrycoke216 said:


> https://books.google.com.tw/books?i...EILTAG#v=onepage&q=teflon lye NaOH eat&f=true
> Susan Cavitch soapmaker's companion
> P.17
> I use google, keyword " lye eat Teflon ,NaOH" & it pops up the p.17 with highlighted keywords.



Hmm. There is no citation to her claim. And a decent amount of anecdotal evidence suggesting otherwise, including threads here. I'm actually inclined to give information found on the forum a bit more weight in the absence of other data. 

I found this with your keywords: http://www.vp-scientific.com/Chemical_Resistance_Chart.htm

Potassium hydroxide is listed, though sodium hydroxide is not. Teflon shows excellent resistance vs. KOH. Even better than stainless steel does. Performance vs. NaOH should be similar. It's not until temperatures reach the vicinity of 300*C that lye would start eating teflon, and at that temperature, it'll eat darn near anything.

ETA: a search with 'lye react with teflon' turns up this: https://www.calpaclab.com/teflon-ptfe-compatibility/. Sodium hydroxide is on this list. 

From an MSDS for sodium hydroxide (link to full document: http://www.ercoworldwide.com/wp-content/uploads/MSDS-Sodium-Hydroxide-Solution-Rev-41.pdf):


> Corrosivity to Non-Metals:
> Sodium hydroxide solutions attack plastics, such as polyamide-imide (Torlon) (10-100% solutions),
> polybutylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate (20-100%), thermoset polyester isophthalic
> acid (10-100%), polyvinylidene fluoride (Kynar; PVDF) (70-100% solutions), polyurethane (riged)
> ...


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## cherrycoke216 (Sep 14, 2017)

Kittish said:


> Hmm. There is no citation to her claim. And a decent amount of anecdotal evidence suggesting otherwise, including threads here. I'm actually inclined to give information found on the forum a bit more weight in the absence of other data.
> 
> I found this with your keywords: http://www.vp-scientific.com/Chemical_Resistance_Chart.htm
> 
> ...




Thanks, kittish. But my non-stick pot brochure says do not put acid, base, or even soak it in water for too long. Now I'm confused.
Is there anything other than Teflon to coat the non-stick pot?


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## Kittish (Sep 14, 2017)

It's probably because the layer of teflon is so thin that it can scratch and chip and break off if you don't treat the pan pretty delicately, and start winding up in your food. Once the layer is compromised in any way, the pan is done (unless you can save it by having the remaining coating removed) because it's coming off into your food. I wouldn't use teflon coated pans to cook with, personally, but I'm quite willing to see how it does with soap.


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