# New to liquid soap



## wisoaper1 (Apr 22, 2013)

I'm about to venture into liquid soap making
My goal is to create something like Dr Bonner's liquid castile
I've got instructions from various sites I found through this forum
but I didn't find any information on whether liquid soap has to be superfatted or not  what is the recommended range of superfat for liquid soap?

Thanks


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## lsg (Apr 22, 2013)

If I were you, I would follow a tried and true liquid soap recipe before trying to come up with one of my own.  That is the way I did it.  I also ran these recipes through SoapCalc to check on the properties, superfat % and the lye solution strength.  I then had an understanding of what it took to formulate my own recipe.  I love the glycerin method, but other members have their own favorites.  I use a 3% to 7% superfat with the glycerin method, depending on the oils I use.  Here is a link with a good recipe that shows the procedure:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VUGV_H7bZU[/ame]


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## Ancel (Apr 22, 2013)

What a great video! I'd love to do liquid soap, just can't get KOH here


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## lsg (Apr 22, 2013)

You can probably order it from the following link; but the shipping cost may be outrageous.

http://www.merckmillipore.com/centr...do/MDA_CHEM-105033/p_7cqb.s1L1oQAAAEWX.EfVhTl


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## wisoaper1 (Apr 23, 2013)

Thanks for the link. I am trying to get around buying another book to figure this all out but after reading some of the horror stories of batches gone bad I think maybe I should buy a book just to be on the safe side


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## Genny (Apr 23, 2013)

Before buying a book, check your local library.  They might have it.


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## wisoaper1 (Apr 23, 2013)

after watching  the video I think I really need to read up on different methods. In the video they  only cooked for 1.5 hours but in the water method it looks like it takes at least 4 hours. Also in the video it didn't say anything about needing to rot for 4 weeks which I have seen in other videos for liquid castile.


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## lsg (Apr 23, 2013)

I think you have liquid soap confused with cream soap.  Once the liquid soap has tested neutral, it is safe to use.  Sometimes it clears a bit after setting for a week or so.  I use Phenolphtalein to test my soap paste before diluting.  If the test is clear, the paste is ready to dilute.


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## green soap (Apr 23, 2013)

http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/liquidsoap/ss/basicliquidsoap.htm


The above tutorial is what I first used.  I use extra KOH (negative superfat in soapcalc)  and neutralize with either borax or citric acid.  

After a few batches and some experimentation I get liquid soap similar to Dr Bronners, but better (mine has better body/thickness and more interesting scents)

I bought Failor's book but I do not recommend it, not a good book in my opinion.  You will do better just following the above tutorial (if you want the Dr Bronner's type). 

The video posted by lsg shows a different technique, which is liked by several members here.  I do no use it because it is more expensive to make and I am in business.  My customers want a locally made Dr Bronners-like product but they do not want to pay more for it.  I am able to offer my liquid soap at an equivalent price this way.


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## Theda (Apr 23, 2013)

Here's the tutorial I used for my first batch. It was pretty easy - no need to neutralize. I used regular Olive Oil, not pomace, and no fragrance.


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## Theda (Apr 23, 2013)

oops forgot the link:

http://ourlifesimplified.com/house/soap-recipes/homemade-liquid-soap-the-easy-way/#axzz2JClIY8uj


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## jcandleattic (Apr 24, 2013)

green soap said:


> The video posted by lsg shows a different technique, which is liked by several members here.  I do no use it because it is more expensive to make and I am in business.  My customers want a locally made Dr Bronners-like product but they do not want to pay more for it.  I am able to offer my liquid soap at an equivalent price this way.



IMO glycerin isn't all that expensive. 
Especially when you factor in the extra time  it takes for the water method to come to trace vs. the time it takes glycerin to trace (because my time IS expensive) .
Also with the glycerin method/recipe I use I don't have to neutralize, thus less expense on citric acid and/or borax as well.


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## Mommysoaper (May 2, 2013)

I use the water method and superfat at 3% and haven't had to neutalize any of my batches yet.  I use the clarity test to make sure my paste has fully cooked and I have phenolthalein to test whether it needs neutralized or not.  So far so good!


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## huffychick (May 21, 2013)

I just ordered an unscented body wash soap base from bulkapothecary. has anyone tried it?  with a base, do I have to heat it up or literally just add any colorants or fragrance I want?


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## wisoaper1 (May 22, 2013)

I order from bulkapothecary also for some items
from my understanding all you have to do is add fragrance and colorants. Are you using a liquid colorant?


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## huffychick (May 22, 2013)

wisoaper1 said:


> I order from bulkapothecary also for some items
> from my understanding all you have to do is add fragrance and colorants. Are you using a liquid colorant?



Well im not sure if i want to use a colorant but if i do, i would probably try a liquid colorant. Is there a special way to add fragrance or mix it? Or can i just stir in with a spoon?


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## jcandleattic (May 23, 2013)

hippychicproducts said:


> Well im not sure if i want to use a colorant but if i do, i would probably try a liquid colorant. Is there a special way to add fragrance or mix it? Or can i just stir in with a spoon?



Whichever supplier you get your base from should have instructions either on their site or included with the product. If they don't, contact them to get them. That's the only way to know for sure what you should/shouldn't do with your particular base product.


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## juliet (May 23, 2013)

I definitely recommend the glycerine method.  It's nice and quick, no messing around neutralising the soap at the end and it comes nice and clear.

A note on SoapCalc for liquid soaps.  Their KOH SAP values are not corrected for the fact that KOH is generally only 90% pure.  And that is the norm, it is highly hygroscopic so absorbs water readily and anything purer than 90% will very soon become only 90% from all the water it absorbs.  That means that KOH amount calculated from SoapCalc is actually the pure KOH value and needs to be increased by 10% to give you the amount of the KOH that you actually buy.  So if you want a 3% superfat and use the KOH amount given by SoapCalc you will actually have approximately 13% superfat.  I compared the SoapCalc values to the SummerBeeMeadow values and the SoapCalc vals are about 10% less.  

Why not try a 100% olive to start with.  I superfat my castile liquid soap (glycerine method) at 10% and it's still crystal clear.


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## catfish88 (May 30, 2013)

Not my topic but thankyou for teh pointers everyone!!  I'm venturing into the soap making hobby so this is really helpful. Thankyou!!! <3


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