# Smooth Pipe Soap anyone?



## rainmanp7 (Jun 2, 2017)

I need to make smooth pipe soap.
I have done almost everything.
Here is what I need to do.
Take 1 Oil.
Coconut
Take the lye water mix and make soap.
HP soap in the pipe.
Let it setup and come out smooth and for sale.
So no heat blisters or volcano or strange things would be nice.

Keep it light colored if possible.

The only problem I keep running into is this.
Once it hits gel everything is ok
I have waited till applesauce and mashpotato and no good I have gone past that and waited till the 2nd deprecation Beyond gel into liquid same thing happened
Wierd blisters and Heat vents coming out the top.
Tried 130-145-150-165 F all same result. The hotter it gets the worse.
So now I tried before gel and it changed color, but came out smooth.
Is thier a way to go to Gell and then make this stuff come out right?
Without adding sodium lactate?
Please? 
Thank you for your comments and advice.


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## shunt2011 (Jun 2, 2017)

How are you doing HP in the pipe? I'm not understanding.

You should be able to just make your soap CP and then pour into the pipe. If it's not hard enough try adding 1 tsp salt PPO to your water before the lye since you don't want to use Sodium Lactate. Though it shouldn't be needed with 100% CO.

The problem may be you are getting overheating. 100% CO soap with full water heats up pretty hot. I would soap at 33% lye concentration and then soap as cool as you can. 

I don't make much 100% CO soap expcept for laundry.


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## rainmanp7 (Jun 2, 2017)

Thank you for your reply.
How I Hope in the plastic pipe.
1st I get everything prepared.
2nd: I look at my previous notes and make a plan.
3rd: I check my clean up ,making sure everything is clean.
4th: I prep the oil by heating on a stove to remove the water from the oil it's self. And fine filter it again to make sure.
5th: I go and do the lye mix outside.
6th: As everything drops temperature...
7th: I prep the pipe with baby oil for smooth release.
8th: seal all cracks etc. And review notes.
9th: I then start measuring everything I can while things keep dropping temp.
10th: I Lazer check the temps and wait till they atleast get to 86F
11th: I then get everything ready.. the electric burner and hand mixer.
12th: that's how it all starts... And progresses..

I have read allot about sodium lactate and how people try things and then all of a sudden bam Sieze?
that's why I'm hesitant on that one.
But will try your suggestion..

Ok let's review that CP idea.
Your right that's how it seems the whole way.
But for How soap is in HP = Hot Process
I need to hit that He'll stage clean. And a little past that at the soft pourable stage would be optimal.
I have tried the cold thing before hell and it gets a little wierd and sticky..
The color changes when I do the Cold Process drop.
But it does come clean and smooth. 
I need the same color all the time for sale.
That doesn't mean I'm going to color it unless I have too.

I will try and implement your suggestions asap.

Thank you for your insight.

That's the issue.. I'm trying to 
Hot Process the soap as cool as I can 
without heat issues.

I am missing something.

Because that gell stage is hot hot. 150-165F

The water discounting helped Allot. No more vocanoes
No I have strange end cap heat vents. And heat blistering.

I always wondered do I actually have to have Gell phase?
I am decided by that idea 


Thanks in advance.


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## Steve85569 (Jun 2, 2017)

I would not gel in a pipe. I am assuming that you are using pvc pipe since you are calling it smooth pipe. One way to get the soap out of the pipe when you have a finished batch is to add a valve stem on one of the caps and put a small amount of air pressure on that end with the other end cap already removed.

Not gelling will eliminate the need for heat. I would also use CP ( cold process) for this and  a high lye concentration.

I also second not doing a 100% coconut oil recipe except for laundry use. For me it's just too drying. But then again that's me.


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## rainmanp7 (Jun 2, 2017)

I'm gelling outside the pipe and then globbing or pouring.
I have one end not sealed at all the top.
Yes it's not PVC ,it's that orange strange pipe. 
Used for electricity and drainage. Smooth inside.
Cheap and smooth lol.

I can't mess with that lye concentration because
If I add too much I get laundry streagnth.
If I add to little I get bars that disappear in the shower
Yep the lye and water can't be messed with.
But I like the CP Idea..
Do you think thier is a way we could hot processes drop inside this pipe?
I seriously want to skip that gell phase.
Everyone says everywhere on the internet you gotta hit
The whole gell phase ,or should I call it the Fel Phaze referring to Warcraft. Dunno If I Agree?
But everything has worked so far.

Thank you.
I know one of your ideas will work.

As soon as I get this fixed...
I will start soaping by fire outside and film it.
Atleast I will take pics..
Fast soaping for the needy 

The orange plastic pipe is used for big buildings.
Conduit pipe.. 2 and 1/2
Well almost 2 and one half.

People didn't think it couldn't be done and it
Wouldn't work. But for some reason it works
The Pringles can worked also.

But as for pressure and air no go...
Pressure could actually work  if I could fit a gravity drop on the top of the soap

I could make a rubber ring and gravity drop it.
You may have a very excellent idea 

But I can't mess with the lye and water with my concoction.


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## Susie (Jun 2, 2017)

OK, first off- stop getting the idea that you are going to sell this.  You don't even know how to make it properly. 
Secondly-HP does not cure faster than CP, so if that is why you want to HP, then it is not going to work.
Thirdly-Get a better recipe than 100% CO.
Fourthly-...you don't even understand how lye concentration works...
Fifthly-you also do not understand that HP is ALL ABOUT HITTING GEL PHASE.

Go to the beginner forum.  Read at least 10 pages of threads.
Go to the Lye Based forum.  Read at least 10 pages of threads.
Then, come back and ask how to make decent soap if you don't understand by then.


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## shunt2011 (Jun 2, 2017)

^^^^
I have to agree with this strongly.  You should in no way begin to consider selling or giving it away. You need to get way more knowledge on the process of soapmaking for sure.


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## rainmanp7 (Jun 3, 2017)

The Cold Process works perfectly.

The Hot Process works but with blister issues and sometimes heat vents ,and I have tried
Various temperatures. The colder the better. But sence I can Go this with 1/2 hour or less
Or a little longer depended on testing.

The final phase is nice ,but with issues.
It takes My HP about 25-30 minutes.
And after 8 hours it can come out of the mold nicely.
Full Cure time ranges with the recipe to about 12 days or less.

When I go through the Cold Process
It takes about 28  minutes.
Pour in the tube.
Nothing with insulation.
Let it sit for 36 hours and it comes out smooth.
Cure time is taking 2 1/2 weeks.

The recipe is great and people love it.

Thank you for your great comments and ideas.

This is a secret recipe  Details are left out on purpose.
You can use any oil by itself.
 Just do the proper calculations to obtain you super fat concentration.
I have found online super fat calcs online to be very nice.
But I have now after much trial and error ,found myself using a simple math method.

To avoid sweating soap.. use less water

To harden a bar ,recalculate down the lye and water by 8% increments ,till you hit the laundry bar type soap. Then go back up by 5%.

Online Calculations are very nice to start with..
,but they can't solve your unexpected issues 

That's where the wonderful and helpful people here come in. They have great ideas and are very generous with beautiful comments.

My own quote:
"Don't believe everything you read" test and verify first.
You could make soap for 45+ years and still get wacky comments and strange advice.
Never give up  Keep moving forward.
If it works for you.. It might be a good thing.


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## Susie (Jun 3, 2017)

rainmanp7 said:


> The Cold Process works perfectly.
> 
> The Hot Process works but with blister issues and sometimes heat vents ,and I have tried
> Various temperatures. The colder the better. But sence I can Go this with 1/2 hour or less
> ...



It is not cured in 12 days.  It may be zapless (and therefore safe), but it is not cured.




rainmanp7 said:


> When I go through the Cold Process
> It takes about 28  minutes.
> Pour in the tube.
> Nothing with insulation.
> ...



It is still not cured then.  Your inexperience with what a properly made and cured soap feels like is shown in these statements.


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## The Efficacious Gentleman (Jun 3, 2017)

And sorry, but if you won't share your recipe then you can't expect everyone to be very willing to help you. Not only because it makes it a pain to troubleshoot without all of the information, but also because if you're not willing to share a recipe then why should others share their knowledge?


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## artemis (Jun 3, 2017)

Ok. So, I'm just trying to clear up my own confision, because I am not understanding your method nor your initial problem. 

When you use a pipe for a mold with CP, everyting comes out nice and smooth.  You would maybe like to HP and use the pipe as your mold, but the end result is not smooth.  Is that the gist of it?  Are you just trying to ask, "how do I get my HP to come out smooth in a pipe"?


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## earlene (Jun 3, 2017)

Rainman7, I remain skeptical.  Some people may love it.  But 100% CO soap is not for everyone, no matter how much SF or other additives (milk, aloe, egg yolk, whatever.)  You say it's a secret recipe.  But 100% CO is still 100% CO and my skin would absolutely hate it unless you packed in various other ingredients like egg yolk and aloe, etc. and then I'm not even sure enough could be added to counter the stripping effect of the CO, at least for my very old skin.  I do use 100% CO no SF for my laundry soap, though since it is so good at removing oils.  

I don't know what kind of pipe you are talking about.  Where are you located and where do you get this orange pipe?  That might help me understand what you are dealing with.  Or maybe it's a pipe like in this link?  If it is, then it is PVC pipe, because that orange pipe is made with Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which is a plastic.

I also am having some difficulty understanding the 'heat vents' you mentioned a couple of times.  Is that the type of end caps on the orange pipe, or is that a problem within the soap?  If the latter, do you mean the soap gets so hot inside the pipe that it bubbles up like when you use too much heat and don't stir polenta and the hot air needs to escape, but also the polenta shoots up little bits of polenta and leaves what looks like a crater like in this picture?

You also mentioned heat blistering, so I am guessing your soap is overheating while in the pipe.  But 100% CO oil does that; it heats up and usually pretty fast.  Since you say you want to avoid gel, then why not try putting the filled pipe into a refrigerator or freezer?  If you soap cool and refrigerate your filled mold you might be able to avoid gel, but I wouldn't count on it with 100% CO soap.  

You cannot avoid gel with HP, otherwise it isn't HP then.  The HP process is all about reaching gel and reaching a non-zapping soap batter before you mold the soap.  CP soap doesn't reach non-zap before molding the soap.  Perhaps you want to use a partial HP process where you hurry up the soap, but stop before gel, then quickly mold the soap, then do a flash-cool (like flash freezing food) to prevent the overheating.  Sounds a little difficult to me given that your soap is 100% CO.  But with enough freezer space, perhaps it can be done.  

Or you could plop those filled molds into an ice water bath and/or keep them in a rolling cart in a walk-in freezer like we used to have at the restaurant.  With the ice bath, you'd have to keep changing the water, though and that's a pain.


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## MySoapyHeart (Jun 3, 2017)

Hi there, and welcome to this forum : )

Since you say your recipe is a secret I can only asume that you are afraid that it is such a fantastic, revelutionary recipe that no one has ever thought of,and that someone is going to steal it from you?

Ok, we all have recipes we want to keep a bit private. But most of us here, including myself, have shared recipes of the soap we are having troubble with. Why? Because, exchanging information is the only way to get the proper help. Without it, it is just assumtions and guesswork without real value.

You said it is a 1 oil soap, coconut?

If I am not mistaken, then you are simply making a 100% Coconut soap that almost everyone in here have made several times. Nothing special about that. Even if you used coconut milk instead of water to dissolve lye in. Or goatmilk, or aloe vera, or juice from orange, or flat beer, or sodapop, and sugarwater, and... 

But antyway, here is something I noticed that seemed very strange to me.

You say in* post #3* - line 4 -

_"4th: I prep the oil by heating on a stove to remove the water from the oil it's self. And fine filter it again to make sure."
_
Does your coconut oil have water in it from before?? This important information that you need to share.



rainmanp7 said:


> Here is what I need to do.
> Take 1 Oil.
> Coconut
> Take the lye water mix and make soap.


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## IrishLass (Jun 3, 2017)

Welcome, Rainman! :wave:



rainmanp7 said:


> I can't mess with that lye concentration because
> If I add too much I get laundry streagnth.
> If I add to little I get bars that disappear in the shower
> Yep the lye and water can't be messed with.


 
From your words above, I'm not sure that you understand the definition of 'lye concentration' or how it works. 

Changing the lye concentration has nothing to do with changing the lye amount in your formula. In other words, when one changes the lye concentration, the lye amount in your formula remains the same, but the water amount is changed to make either a weaker or stronger concentration of lye in your lye solution. In other words....

More water = a weaker concentration of lye (i.e., there's more water than lye in the lye solution),

and conversely,

Less water = a higher/stronger concentration of lye (i.e., there's more lye than water in the lye solution). 


When a few folks in this thread recommended that you try making CP using a '33% lye concentration', or a 'higher lye concentration', all they meant was that you should make a CP batch using a water discount or less water in your formula. The lye amount remains the same, only the water amount changes.

Using less water (i.e. a higher/stronger lye concentration) in CP will help reduce overheating and can even prevent gel depending on how high of a concentration/less water you use.


Re: your HP batches:


			
				rainmanp7 said:
			
		

> Full Cure time ranges with the recipe to about 12 days or less


 
Re: your CP batches:


			
				rainmanp7 said:
			
		

> Cure time is taking 2 1/2 weeks.


 
As Susie said, your batches my be zapless/safe-to-use/harder, but they are not fully cured yet. Zapless/safe-to-use/harder is actually not the same thing as 'cured'.

For more information on what happens during cure and how long it normally takes for soap to properly cure, see our DeeAnna's excellent treatise *here* (make sure to read through each post from #51 - #55). 



			
				MySoapyHeart said:
			
		

> But antyway, here is something I noticed that seemed very strange to me.
> 
> You say in* post #3* - line 4 -
> 
> _"4th: I prep the oil by heating on a stove to remove the water from the oil it's self. And fine filter it again to make sure."_


 
It sounds to me that he is making his own coconut oil from coconut meat and water. Soapmaking101 has a tutorial of how to do that (see her video entitled, 'Turning Coconuts Into Soap'). 



IrishLass


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## dixiedragon (Jun 3, 2017)

I think most people stir HP at least once during the process. The heat of HP often causes the soap to separate so you have to stir it back together. I have gelled in PVS pipes no problem, but not HP. I've given up on pipes - it's just too hard to get the soap out.


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## rainmanp7 (Jun 3, 2017)

Ok here is the thing.
I spent like 5 week's studying this new soap stuff. It's my favorite hobby by far and yes I live it lol.

So after 25 years later I have returned.
These last 5 week's if processing all sorts of things.
I have come to some conclusions ,after reading hundreds of articles around the internet and books.

I remember some things that are very valuable.

Ok I have run this recipe I found on the internet and corrected it.
Then I made up my own scent  
Then I went through and have almost tried every concievable way
To correct something. I have thought about allot of problems people have been having and myself.

So here is the basic info

Your going to make a batch of 33 Ounces of oil.
Your going to make the water and lye mix to the no sweat level.
No matter grams or ounces ,same things happen.
Convert that to grams if you need.

You take some paper tissue get baby oil and swirl it around inside the pipe
Enough is when it's coated completely inside.

You can use any pipe you wish.
The oil I'm referring to and in this test is coconut oil.

You need 45% - 50% of a bowl filled when your ready to cook.
The heat has got to be even all around ,or you wind up working it periodically.
Or use a cover of some sort to maintain the heat.

Ok so let's start.

Basic recipe coconut. You can use scent or not. The scent does not change the issue here.

Coco 33oz = 935.53 grams
Lye 4.41oz = 125.02 grams
Water 8.54oz = 242.10 grams
Scent 1.75oz = 49.61 grams

This recipe works brilliantly every time.
You can use any pipe within 12 inches or less.


Make sure everything is clean and dry.
Prep and weigh all your things.
Use any oil you wish. Just 1 Oil.
Now before we begin.. I need you to do something to the oil.
Take it and heat it up to remove the water in the oil.
After you do this. Let it cool down.
If you know how to fine filter blazing oil? Do it.

Now go weigh your lye and water and prep that.

Now you let both come down to say around 86F

Once your ready you will put the oil in a stainless pot
And turn on the heat to low.

You will see a separation or glimmer at the bottom as if it still has speration.
That temp will be around 97-98-110F

Now add your lye-water mix and let it just flow into it.

Give about 7 seconds. 
Take the electric hand mixer and get the air bubbles out.
Start pulse blending till you see it mix up nice.
Now leave it to settle the temp will now read around
Say 110-125F give or take probably 105F

Now as it's cooking if you see bubbles use the whisk to slowly still away.
Now blend again.

At 125 things change so check it
 135 again mix it up.

Now at this point you want to hit I'm gell?
Because at around 150-165 you will need to stir to even the heat.

Now right at 170-175 a split gell occurs.
You mix this up with something hard. Hard wooden spatuala if possible.

You will have a thick gel phase after mashpotato
Then it will break apart into liquid septation at 175 F and higher
At this point it's tricky.
You can mix or blend that together or just pour that.
Applesauce turns out better.

The problem is at.. every temp and no matter how ,or what I do
It seems this needs to be cooler... But there are always blisters all over the surface and usually a heat vent.
Right when it's solidifing in the pipe.

Is there any way to solve the blister craziness?
Or also solve the heat vent issue?
Using a plastic pipe. ?
Pringles can same issues no matter size....
Coconut oil fresh or store naught.. same thing...
I baught from 4-5 stores.. same issue...
2 1/2 is the pipe size or smaller same issue.
P.S. the baby oil is so it just comes right out the pipe.
The baby oil does not soaponify. Diff brands same issue.
No baby oil same thing in mold.
I want to get this fixed before I pour it into loaf mold.

I think I have it solved. Because I will just make up anew way to do soaping that's never been done before 
But I for one , don't like reinventing the wheel.

The same issues are happening with the scent or not.
P.S. no I do not give out that scent recipe. 
That scent is super top secret 

Anyway that's the issue I would like your thoughtful help on.

Thank you in advance.

I seriously think it's about that pipe and cooking.
Yeah especially the cooking.
Not really how I cook it.
I mean I will accept advice ,but I seriously​ think this is a worldwide issue.

" Stop SniFFiN My SoAP"


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## Primrose (Jun 3, 2017)

I think someone's been cooking something other then soap ... and maybe the pipe isn't being used as a soap mould ... maybe it's not soap being sniffed. 

I honestly find it very hard to follow what you are saying and what your problem is.


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## rainmanp7 (Jun 4, 2017)

Ok the soap after cooking..
Has blisters everywhere and usually a wicked heat vent occurs.
The only way I was able to break this crap.
To actually fix it.
I had to bring this UpTo 175F to get it pourable and to be able to use 1)2 before and half mix after.
Meaning... 
At first slam the oil and lye/water mix at 1/2
Then once done near that 175F
Hit it with the other 1/2 if the lye water mix.
Then stir that together and or blend fast
Then add scent.
But unusual things happen.

Maybe still a water issue dunno?
But I was able to only pull off a smooth pull.
From the pipe.

And

Here is what I did.
I started at the stuff cookin.
Right when ..right after the mashpotato 
I saw it trying​ to separate into oil
I slammed it with the other 1/2...
Mixed real fast as the temp was dropping
That came out smoooooth but took time
To unmold and setup almost like cold process.

I know there's gotta be another way 

"Stop SniFFiN ma Soap"

I have to admit something about myself.

I have recently realized something.
I speak like I'm on drugs.. because the things I do
Are out of this world litterly.

I understand completely how it may seem to you.
But honestly I'm straight minded.
I'm not smoking stuff and cookiN.

"Stop SniFFiN ma SoAP"

There is no end cap..
I'm literally taking plastic and packing tape.
A little cardboard circle.

Ok look you take the pipe..
You draw circle on the cardboard and cut it out.
You trace that pipe. Cut it a little smaller by rechecking it.
Place the little cardboard circle on the end..
To make sure you have a good fit.

Now juice up the pipe with some baby oil..
Place the cardboard circle at the end and 2 pieces of tape
Then grab a cheap piece of plastic bag...
Fold it a few times and tape it up ,then strongly tape it.
That is how I deal the end.
I could make a silicone insert as soon as I fix this ignorant problem.

The soap is not coming out smooth...
Pocks and blisters all over the place and usually I come back and see strange heat vent action.
Very strange. Water discount has helped Allot.

I have to preheat this coconut Because the stuff in the store
Is screwed up and has trace water inside it.
I can make the oil myself or Virgin Coconut Oil.
But it's easy to just buy it and preheat the water out.
That way the calculation works out.

Ok regarding this info..

When a few folks in this thread recommended that you try making CP using a '33% lye concentration', or a 'higher lye concentration', all they meant was that you should make a CP batch using a water discount or less water in your formula. The lye amount remains the same, only the water amount changes.

Using less water (i.e. a higher/stronger lye concentration) in CP will help reduce overheating and can even prevent gel depending on how high of a concentration/less water you use.

Here is what happens...
If I drop the water level more ,it takes me to higher levels at the stove..
Like 175+ UpTo like 215 F
If I bring that water level up I run the risk of ��
I'm sure this has something to do with it.

Maybe dropping the water and maintaining heat might help.
Will try it. It's worked good doing that so far.
But to hit that gell level is kinda tuff.
Will try it and let ya know.
Going to the store now and pick up some more oil.

"Stop SniFFiN ma SoAP"

I really think it's a water issue.
But what I want is a smooth pour at gell.
During hot processes.
I think that would solve many things.

"Stop SniFFiN ma SoAP"

I found an issue. Regarding the manufacturing.
The Manufacturing of the oil has no regulation.
They extract the oil ,and then do a Xylene strip extraction.
This causes more oil ,but with serious health implications.
Because there is 1/2 being oil and the other 1/2 being bad oil and steric acid at wicked levels.

So this is a money issue. Regarding people and oil.
They add water to the oil. They take the rotten copra form the coconut.
And extraction is a wicked combo result.

I found this evidence in the soaps , but I also found someone was adding palm oil to the coconut oil.
This was discovered as I removed the water from the oil ,it did a separation right in the glass container during hot fine filtering.

This has led to full cooking anywhere to 10 minutes up to 38 minutes at the exact same heat levels and everything being the same. 11 times in a row.

So the resolution will be.
Don't drink water when your belly is upset!
This will be cured by hot processes water removal.
Then let everything cool down before cooking.
Then right before the pour after gel...
Mix in other 1/2 to loosen it...
Then add some powdered milk and salt...
Alkaline the acid and calm it down with powdered milk.

This is a Quality issue. 
High acid values with the Xylene manufacture.
Xylene oil stripping. 1/2 normal extraction...
other 1/2 profit...

" Super high Steric Acid " at various levels.

---: The Steric Acid are the Gremlin's
I guess since there is no regulation on this
, Because as long as it's oil they sell it and
People buy it.


Various good and rooten sections mixed together.
Warping and separations and inside vents with insane blistering.

So will try and cure the upset belly of the beast.
Maybe use Tums?
Dunno ,but will try 

Your going to have it all killed by the lye anyway right?
Yes but your unseen quality if screwed up will give you an unseen and misbehaving quality along the way. Especially at the drying and Curring stages even more.
Cracking and wierd spots ,all sorts of wacky things you just can't attribute to one single thing? Start looking at your materials and the quality of the oils bieng used and the water.

"Stop SniFFiN ma SoAP"


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## WeaversPort (Jun 5, 2017)

I had a whole post written up, but the page crashed and ate it. 

When you are talking about conduit, there are three primary types of rigid pipe used: RMC, GMC, and PVC. RMC and GMC are metal, and might not be safe to use. While the more expensive pipe would be made of steel, aluminum is often used because it's a cheaper material. Anything aluminum will react to the lye and be dangerous to use. If you are using metal, I highly recommend a new pipe material, otherwise there is risk of it being unsafe at a lot of levels. 

In regards to "blistering" I don't know if we're having a language barrier, but I'm not sure if you are saying the soap is blistering in the mold or whether the pipe is blistering when the soap is in it. 

Blistering, splitting, cracking, and volcanoing all happen when the soap is too hot. It basically comes apart and doesn't make a solid, nice piece of soap. Some fragrances will increase the risk of volcanos and cracking soap, no matter how wonderful they smell. 

If the pipe is blistering and you're using PVC,  it is because it isn't designed to stand up to the intense chemical process that is soapmaking at the temperature you're talking about. The lye, heat, etc, are pretty harsh. If the pipe is under pressure it's not designed for - it's not going to hold up for long. The maximum recommended operating temperature for PVC is 140F. If you're heating it up to 170 for any extended periods of time, you're weakening the Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and you would need a material rated for higher temperature AND pressure.


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## Susie (Jun 5, 2017)

He is insisting on doing HP in the hope that it will cure faster.  When he is already using a 100% CO recipe.  He just won't understand that he either needs to stop doing HP, or stop using the pipe, or change his recipe.  As you know, 100% CO will heat up fine all by itself.  Especially if he uses full water.


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## WeaversPort (Jun 5, 2017)

Susie said:


> He is insisting on doing HP in the hope that it will cure faster.  When he is already using a 100% CO recipe.  He just won't understand that he either needs to stop doing HP, or stop using the pipe, or change his recipe.  As you know, 100% CO will heat up fine all by itself.  Especially if he uses full water.



In the famous words of Scotty: I canna defy the laws of physics, Captain. At this point, even though HP doesn't cure faster enough people believe it so it won't matter arguing that point. Outside of user error - which the author seems very certain of.. 

If there is no changing the recipe, I'd say the pipe is the weak link.


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## Dahila (Jun 5, 2017)

People do not waste your time on this individual,  I do not know what it is, but that "persona" makes me nervous, with his OCD posts, it feels like spam,  I do not say it is spam it feels like spam to me


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## artemis (Jun 5, 2017)

Dahila said:


> People do not waste your time on this individual,  I do not know what it is, but that "persona" makes me nervous, with his OCD posts, it feels like spam,  I do not say it is spam it feels like spam to me



Ok. So, not knowing this individual, we can't say if they have ANY kind of disorder. 

Having said that, please don't ask people to not respond to someone because there is a possibility that they might have a disorder that frightens you. It's difficult enough for such a person to find people who will talk to them.


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## Dahila (Jun 6, 2017)

artemis said:


> Ok. So, not knowing this individual, we can't say if they have ANY kind of disorder.
> 
> Having said that, please don't ask people to not respond to someone because there is a possibility that they might have a disorder that frightens you. It's difficult enough for such a person to find people who will talk to them.



I had not diagnosed anyone I said it terrifies me....... People will do whatever they want, it is their choice.  
Now imagine someone who does not know how to make soap, is going to sell it, what do you think will happen?  
Someone who buys bad soap, just once, will never buy another one,  and our market for soaps is gone.  It happens all the time,   I put so much money in samples to convince people that it is good, but one bad soap and we lose this customer ........


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## cherrycoke216 (Jun 6, 2017)

I can kinda understand him. Do you mean adulterated oil? Some normal oil plus some cheap filler oil to make the profit? Thus it makes the soap batter acting weird?

I think you should listen to the advice people gave you. PVC cannot stand that high heat. It might cause some toxic gas or chemical reaction and contaminate your soap. And the EO or FO you don't want to share might also be the culprit of overheating/blistering soap. Cinnamon essential oil, ginger essential oil, etc. can be a heater Fragrance.

And you keep saying/ singing that other Thread title might be the reason you kinda scare off dahila. I think she did not mean to sound mean, just kinda terrified.


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## artemis (Jun 6, 2017)

Dahila said:


> I had not diagnosed anyone I said it terrifies me.......



You said the OCD persona makes you nervous. That would be Obsessive Compulsive Disorder. Throwing that around and telling people to avoid them because of it is what I object to.



Dahila said:


> Now imagine someone who does not know how to make soap, is going to sell it, what do you think will happen?



I don't see where they said they were selling it? Was that in a different thread somewhere?


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## shunt2011 (Jun 6, 2017)

artemis said:


> You said the OCD persona makes you nervous. That would be Obsessive Compulsive Disorder. Throwing that around and telling people to avoid them because of it is what I object to.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see where they said they were selling it? Was that in a different thread somewhere?




They have said they were selling in other post. This person isn't listening to anything they have been told or answering questions others have asked who were trying to help.


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## earlene (Jun 6, 2017)

artemis said:


> You said the OCD persona makes you nervous. That would be Obsessive Compulsive Disorder. Throwing that around and telling people to avoid them because of it is what I object to.


Yes, I agree with you on this, *artemis*.  Perhaps poorly chosen words were the problem here.  But it is a very sensitive subject, nonetheless.



artemis said:


> I don't see where they said they were selling it? Was that in a different thread somewhere?



No, first post of this thread. 



rainmanp7 said:


> I need to make smooth pipe soap.
> I have done almost everything.
> Here is what I need to do.
> Take 1 Oil.
> ...


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## artemis (Jun 6, 2017)

earlene said:


> No, first post of this thread.



There it is! I totally missed that one little word.


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## zolveria (Jun 6, 2017)

*100 percent coco soap*

first off  100 coco soap is possible and non drying.. I  sell it..

the key thing is to add aloe or silk. and super fat at 23 25 percent.
and mix at 100 degree so not to false trace..

I myself have used pvc pipes and my soap sets in 5-6 hours.. 

to this you can add clay ... sugar. etc.

use a soap calc. and super fat to 23 to 25 

add replace some of the water with liquid silk or aloe


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## rainmanp7 (Jun 19, 2017)

The issue is that when I have tried to do the 100F
The temp climbs up Everytime at least 10%
Then at this point it flips to Gell stage.
So here is what has happened as of new.

I made a recent Papaya and got the recipe correct.
It does a tiny gell thing and small crack.
Even at 96F

But that coconut
Jumps at 10% and then even at vasaline stage
I put it inside and it comes out with wacky crap holes and vents and all sorts of wierd 
Things going on.

I have tried overheating it and sent it in at 235F
I stirred it back down and dropping temp by adding the other 1/2
Once it hit applesauce stage. That's been the only solution that has worked so far.

Recently I have added the Salt and lowered the water.
That showed promising results.
Came out less damaged. Hardened up quick
Less pock marks. Less holes...
So adding salt and less water has worked to solving
This screwy issue issue so far. I'm not giving up.
It's coming out nice and white.
I just need a professional appearance.
I know it's possible.

I will release new Recipe and steps I take with your added help.
Thank you in advance.
P.S. the Papaya comes out super smooth.
But I'm using Cold Process for the papaya.

The baby milk didn't help ROFL came out all sorts of 
Icky colors with the salt.

The salt doesn't change the color...
But do not use baby milk.

I gotta keep visiting this thread. Many comments.
Lots of drama 
Never expected the drama stuff.

Yes it has to do with the water and heat.
I have used distilled and normal water.
I just have done this recipe in the USA with no
Problems ever. But in this country it's not funny ,but kinda wicked


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## Dahila (Jun 19, 2017)

First of all what is baby milk? Second; to give you any feedback we need full recipe.  What country you have problem with gelling.  I go as low as 32 Celsius: 86 F 
Never have problem with overheating.  no, I got once but it was laundry soap with 100% Coconut oil


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## shunt2011 (Jun 19, 2017)

The problem is you ramble and don't give clear information. We are not able to understand what exactly you are saying and what you are doing. People would like to help but you are not giving them the information they are asking for to help. So until you do, it's not likely anyone is going to offer help.  You are the cause of the drama not being clear.  It's frustrating to those that like to help but are throwing their hands up in frustration.


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## Dahila (Jun 19, 2017)

Shunt sorry I forgot that this is the guy, and posted :silent: NO more!!


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## cherrycoke216 (Jun 19, 2017)

Shunt, I think it's a newbie thing. Some newbie post is quite long and don't have paragraph, randomly pops question in the story plot. it hurts my brain cell just read through it. I'm not condescending newbie, just telling it as is. I think they have encounter troubles and can't seem to figure it out. Thus the long story and question mark in every sentence. I once were these newbie,too. But I google and find SMF, kinda self-educate myself using search function.



To OP:
Don't use " normal " tap water. It contains traces of metal that cause DOS (dreaded orange spots).

Overheating soap and troubleshooting it
www.lovinsoap.com/troubleshooting/

If you are now in a hotter and more humid country, try not to melt the oil & use heat transfer method. Use the hot lye water to melt the oils, this gives me more play time. And do NOT stick blending too much. ( I'm assuming this because you said in USA you don't have this problem. And adding papaya... It's a trend in Southeast Asia. So just a wild guess here. ) 

Coconut oil heats things up. So go easy on it. And too much coconut will dry lots of people's skin.

Baby milk... I'm assuming baby formula milk powder for baby??? It contains sugar, too. It will heat up soap batter, and sometimes a tan color or even scorch the soap. So search on forum for maximum usage rate. 

Papaya contains lots of sugar. So it will heat up soap batter. Search on forum the suggested usage rate. Add too much food puree will make your soap grow mold.


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## shunt2011 (Jun 19, 2017)

cherrycoke216 said:


> Shunt, I think it's a newbie thing. Some newbie post is quite long and don't have paragraph, randomly pops question in the story plot. it hurts my brain cell just read through it. I'm not condescending newbie, just telling it as is. I think they have encounter troubles and can't seem to figure it out. Thus the long story and question mark in every sentence. I once were these newbie,too. But I google and find SMF, kinda self-educate myself using search function.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




That's not the issue. People have asked the op questions and to post recipes etc and have been ignored.  I can handle onrunning sentences from posters.  I just take offense for myself and others who have tried to help that he finds it amusing that they are frustrated.  So, me like others are done trying to help.


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## Dahila (Jun 19, 2017)

It would be beneficial for everyone to close the topic,


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## Selaine (Jun 21, 2017)

Gonna say right now that the first, second and fourth pages of this thread were absolutely train wreckingly mind bendingly fabulous!!!!!! Between reading the OP's posts and then trying to apply any form of soap science to them, my mind was so absorbed that I'm sure my dog pee'd on my foot and I didn't even notice!!    

That said,  maybe the OP is ESL?  or like another said, maybe using oils that are less than 100%?  Why else would they need to be boiled to rid them of water?  

To the OP:  Good luck my man!


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## rainmanp7 (Jun 22, 2017)

Ok here is what I have found out about this crazy coconut soap. Trying to get this hot processes smooth out the pipe.

I'm going to use this papaya I'm working on now. Because I found the issues and fixed them temporary with the papaya.

Ok there are these wierd blue spots showing up.

I know that's directly linked to the coconut ,because it's happening to my Papaya+Coconut recipe.

Now check this out.

Everything kept getting screwed up even the papaya at cold process.. until I did one thing. I decided to just accept what ever came at me and just color the stupid thing right? I'm thinking all natural color right  yep so I whipped up some natural poweder concoction...
And guess what.
BingO
Something I was looking for happened.
I was like oh well Chuck this crap soap into this stupid pipe as just mixed liquid and not even trace yet...
So the pipe is all juiced up with baby oil and everything is susposed to go wacky I guess? 
It worked and it did that small jell crack explode crap without the powder.

With the added powder
A small tiny crack sometimes.

The powder is somehow absorbing some unseen acidic function of this coconut. And the really wack thing is this.
You gotta litterly blend with mixer and stop as soon as you see it combine.. call that fake trace  then imiediatly add the rest and mix with whisk and then spoon and tap etc.. into the mold...
That's the only way as in cold...
So this is an Acidic Issue for sure.
The salt tamed it and it went more alkaline.
The powder brought it way further.
So just like nullifying acid.

There needs to be something I can add to this recipe of just coconut to get it to not act acidic....

I got air 1-3 air bubbles ,but professional smooth yes. Smooth as glass
It's just taking 2-3 days to unmold.

Then I'm sure we can hot processes.:headbanging:

I never give up.

"Stop SniFFiN ma SoAP"
Love u guys an girls..
Thank u.


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## Primrose (Jun 22, 2017)

I'm trying to read between the lines here ... you mixed to just emulsion and then poured into the mould ... so maybe its just a matter of getting it into the mould early before it heats up too much, 100% coconut being a mixture that likes to get hot. Maybe you are getting less air into your mould if you pour at emulsion rather than at trace. So therefore your soap is filling the mould more evenly and producing a more uniform soap


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