# Simple Liquid Soap Recipe



## Shelbyw (Jun 21, 2016)

I am just starting soap making.  Does someone have a simple liquid soap recipe?

Any help is greatly appreciated!


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## The Efficacious Gentleman (Jun 21, 2016)

There are some very good threads about making liquid soap in this section, with full details and instructions. Just have a leaf back through the first 5 or 6 pages and you'll have a great basis


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## IrishLass (Jun 21, 2016)

You will find a few good beginner LS recipes (which utilize the 'glycerin method') in this thread: http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=46114


IrishLass


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## lsg (Jun 21, 2016)

Glycerin liquid soap is the simplest recipe that I have found.


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## topofmurrayhill (Jun 21, 2016)

Shelbyw said:


> I am just starting soap making.  Does someone have a simple liquid soap recipe?
> 
> Any help is greatly appreciated!



Follow the instructions in that thread except for dissolving the potassium hydroxide in glycerin, because that is a foolishly dangerous approach. Just dissolve it in water (50/50 by weight) and combine it with the glycerin for the same results.


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## lsg (Jun 22, 2016)

I have never had a problem with using all glycerin to dissolve the potassium hydroxide.


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## IrishLass (Jun 22, 2016)

lsg said:


> I have never had a problem with using all glycerin to dissolve the potassium hydroxide.


 
I've personally never had a problem dissolving the KOH in glycerin either- it's always gone well for me. 

To the OP: Having said that, though, I do understand the concerns about danger that TOMH raises. The danger lies in how one goes about heating the KOH and glycerin. There's a right way and a wrong way to do it....

They way in which I learned how do it is the right way, which is to first combine the KOH and glycerin in my pot while they are both at room temp, then (and only then) do I place the pot on the heat to bring things to a boil in order to force the KOH to dissolve. For what its worth, the only way that KOH will dissolve in glycerin is if the glycerin is hot/boiling. This particular method of dissolving the KOH in glycerin instead of water is called 'The Pharmacist's Method' because it was utilized by pharmacists back in the day when they wanted to make their "green" soap paste (which they used for several things) in a quick/timely fashion without having to cook/stir the soap batter for hours to get to the paste stage. 

The foolishly dangerous way is to bring the glycerin to a boil first and then add the room temp KOH to it. The reason why is because doing so causes much hissing/popping and splashing up of the boiling solution, which has the great potential of landing on your skin and causing a thermal burn. If you've done much of any reading of soaping blogs at all on the vast interwebs, you've probably seen many that dissolve their KOH in glycerin this way, but its a very bad idea. Don't do it that way. 

To continue with my dialog of doing it the correct way...... Once my pot of combined glycerin/KOH is at a boil (underneath an operating hood vent on high speed...and wearing all my protective gear), I never leave its side. I keep stirring and periodically removing the pot from the heat whenever it looks like it might boil over. Although I do keep it at a boil, I never let it boil so violently that any of it is able to splash up or out. Usually between 10 to 12 minutes, all of my KOH is dissolved and the solution is completely clear.

If doing it the (correct) Pharmacist's way makes you nervous, TOMH is absolutely right that one can still make liquid soap via the glycerin method without having to dissolve the KOH in glycerin.....

The last time I made a batch of glycerin liquid soap, I did it by first dissolving my KOH in an equal amount of distilled water by weight (it took all of 1 to 2 minutes to dissolve, if that) before pouring my full complement of room temp glycerin normally called for by my formula into the dissolved solution. Then, when thoroughly mixed with my oils, it came to the paste stage (off the heat) in 23 minutes. 

Of course, using that bit of water up front to dissolve the KOH into meant that I had to adjust my amount of dilution water later on when diluting the paste to make liquid soap out of it, but I was able to get my water/paste ratio all worked out rather quickly without any problems, and my soap finished out beautifully with the honey-thick consistency that I prefer.


IrishLass


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## topofmurrayhill (Jun 22, 2016)

lsg said:


> I have never had a problem with using all glycerin to dissolve the potassium hydroxide.



It's more difficult and (depending on exactly how you do it) either more dangerous or way more dangerous than dissolving the KOH in water.

Like oil, glycerin can be heated to very high temperatures. The water content of KOH introduces the possibility of splattering or boil-over. This procedure adds the danger of thermal burns and other accidents to the usual danger of chemical burns. Anyone getting splashed with this stuff is going to be in a much worse world of hurt than normal.

The SMF community professes a high degree of safety-mindedness. To popularize this procedure, especial with new soapers, is contradictory. We should consider this more realistically.

I would distinguish between the _technique_, which is good, and the _procedure_, which is terrible. The _technique_ is to introduce a solvent to facilitate the saponification reaction so that making the soap paste doesn't require much effort or attention. The _procedure_ is that you combine 1 part KOH with 3 parts glycerin and dissolve the KOH at a high temperature. That's the problem.

You can take the same weight of KOH and glycerin, make a 50% aqueous solution with the KOH, then add it to room temperature glycerin and it will work just as well. That would be 1 part KOH, 1 part water, 3 parts glycerin.


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## lsg (Jun 22, 2016)

Yes, it is better to be safe than sorry.


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## topofmurrayhill (Jun 23, 2016)

IrishLass said:


> If doing it the (correct) Pharmacist's way makes you nervous, TOMH is absolutely right that one can still make liquid soap via the glycerin method without having to dissolve the KOH in glycerin.....



Somehow I failed to see your response before I posted mine. You provided the details of what I referred to as "way dangerous" versus simply "dangerous".

I agree with your right way of dissolving KOH in glycerin if that is necessary for any purpose. Thing is, I don't really think this has anything to do with whether the procedure makes someone nervous. It's about whether there is any reason at all to do it. If there was a result you could only get by dissolving the KOH in glycerin, maybe there would be an argument for it. But if you can get the same result by dissolving KOH in water and mixing it with room temp glycerin, that is flat out the only procedure we should be discussing.

Creating a liquid that is highly caustic, scalding hot, and prone to boil over isn't just an optional approach. We should retire it if it doesn't serve a purpose and not suggest it. It may be actually the most dangerous procedure suggested in the modern history of artisanal soaping, and it really contradicts the usual safety mindedness of the community.

A name like the "pharmaceutical method" gives it credibility as a thing. To tell the truth, at the moment I have doubts that it's an actual thing. In the vast expanse of the Internet, there appear to be no references to it.


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## mzimm (Jun 23, 2016)

Shelbyw, I hope it is not lost on you that this thread has thoroughly introduced you to the level of quality and integrity you'll always find on this forum!  The answers that have been provided for your "simple" question provide education for anyone who is truly looking to learn.
And BTW, welcome!  :wave:  Where do you hail from?  What are your soapy interests?


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## Susie (Jun 23, 2016)

Shelbyw-welcome to the forum.  Please ignore the hijack of your thread.  I assure you that this is not the normal behavior of our esteemed soapmakers.  

I make cold processed liquid soap.  Which is as simple as it can get as I abhor extra steps.  Here is an abbreviated version of my current process for hand soap, it is actually IrishLass' recipe with a very minor change, to get the full version you can read the thread linked above.  Be very sure to weigh everything carefully, and always use gloves and goggles.  This has a 3% superfat.

Coconut Oil 25%    8 oz
Olive Oil 65%        20.8 oz
Castor Oil 10%      3.2 oz

KOH 7.1 oz (set calculator to 90% purity)
Water 10 oz
Sugar 1 tablespoon
Glycerin 11.3 oz

Melt and mix the oils.  Add the glycerin to the oils.
Mix the KOH in small increments, stirring vigorously, with the water.  (Save a tablespoon out to mix with the sugar, then dump that into the oils.) 
Once the KOH is completely dissolved, add it to the oils. 
Stickblend until you get an applesauce, you will then think it is ready, it is not.  Continue to stickblend, it will go back to liquid, but once it is liquid, be prepared for either flying bubbles or almost instantaneous paste.  I have had it do both on the various batches I have made.  Either way, you are done stickblending.  Cover the pot and walk away.  I usually clean up all my soaping stuff and wash the dishes.  Once you have taken a break for half an hour or more, start checking the paste.  Once you see it looking like vaseline was mixed in, you can zap check it.  If it is zapless, you can begin dilution.  My theory is that the hotter your oils and your KOH/water mixture, the less time it takes to hit gel stage, but I have no proof.  I have had this take as little as 20 minutes, and as long as 4 hours.

I then add Sodium lactate 1.2 oz, but this is purely optional. 
I dilute with 46 oz water.  It will need some stickblending at the end to mix in the final lumps of paste, but it will be a lovely thick liquid soap.
TOMH-please start a separate thread with a discussion on your concerns regarding the safety of the glycerin/KOH mixing procedures.  This is not the place.


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## lsg (Jun 23, 2016)

I agree Susie.


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## Cindy2428 (Jun 23, 2016)

Shelby you may also want to check out Soaping 101 on you-tube. The "Teach" has an excellent video for LS making


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## Rusti (Jun 23, 2016)

Susie said:


> Shelbyw-welcome to the forum.  Please ignore the hijack of your thread.  I assure you that this is not the normal behavior of our esteemed soapmakers.
> 
> I make cold processed liquid soap.  Which is as simple as it can get as I abhor extra steps.  Here is an abbreviated version of my current process for hand soap, it is actually IrishLass' recipe with a very minor change, to get the full version you can read the thread linked above.  Be very sure to weigh everything carefully, and always use gloves and goggles.  This has a 3% superfat.
> 
> ...



This was super helpful, thanks Susie!


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## IrishLass (Jun 23, 2016)

topofmurrayhill said:


> Somehow I failed to see your response before I posted mine. You provided the details of what I referred to as "way dangerous" versus simply "dangerous".
> 
> I agree with your right way of dissolving KOH in glycerin if that is necessary for any purpose. Thing is, I don't really think this has anything to do with whether the procedure makes someone nervous. It's about whether there is any reason at all to do it. If there was a result you could only get by dissolving the KOH in glycerin, maybe there would be an argument for it. But if you can get the same result by dissolving KOH in water and mixing it with room temp glycerin, that is flat out the only procedure we should be discussing.........
> 
> A name like the "pharmaceutical method" gives it credibility as a thing. To tell the truth, at the moment I have doubts that it's an actual thing. In the vast expanse of the Internet, there appear to be no references to it.


 
I've been thinking a lot about this since my response yesterday, and of course, what you say above makes absolute logical sense.

The Pharmacist's method- for what it's worth, probably better known as the "USP XIII glycerin method" because it originates from the USP (United States Pharmacopeia) XIII manual- was how I was taught from the very beginning of my liquid soap-making endeavors. 

A little back history: My 'teacher' of the method if you will, was/is a retired medical doctor who had been using the method for many years to make his own glycerin liquid soap at home (Silverdoctor over on the Dish forum). He happened to be the source that inadvertently started the whole glycerin liquid soap-making craze back around 2010 amongst the community over at the Dish. 

Anyway, he actually was not a member of the Dish at that time, but there was another member of the Dish (Tarafotty) that had seen the USP recipe that he had posted on About.com and began using it herself with very good results and she told someone else about it..... and then it pretty much took on a life of its own over at the Dish from there. 

Silverdoctor eventually joined the Dish when much talk began to be generated over it (in that very looooooong glycerin method thread over at the Dish), and the rest, they say, is history. 

Anyway, you know what they say about old habits dying hard- I had suckled at the breast of the USP/Pharmacist's method from the very get-go of my GLS endeavors, and since I was taught the correct way by an excellent teacher and had never experienced a single problem during my execution of it, I never looked into there being an alternative/better/safer way of doing it..... so, for better or for worse, that's my excuse for my continued postings about the method..... 

And also for better or for worse, the fact that many GLS soap-makers old and new continue to dissolve their KOH in glycerin because of the instructions on a myriad of blogs and videos out there, I will continue to post about it, if for no other reason to make sure that those that attempt to do it that way, will do so correctly.......but I will no longer post about it without also posting the alternative/better/safer way.


IrishLass


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## topofmurrayhill (Jun 23, 2016)

IrishLass said:


> I've been thinking a lot about this since my response yesterday, and of course, what you say above makes absolute logical sense.
> 
> The Pharmacist's method- for what it's worth, probably better known as the "USP XIII glycerin method" because it originates from the USP (United States Pharmacopeia) XIII manual- was how I was taught from the very beginning of my liquid soap-making endeavors.
> 
> ...



That all makes good sense. I figured you and at least some others would continue doing it the way you're used to. I think maybe new people shouldn't be encouraged in that direction, which might be the main thing to consider. And perhaps being careful to express the dangers realistically. When this seemed like the only way, maybe  the risks got slightly underplayed. In reality, dissolving KOH in glycerin really stands out for its riskiness compared to other soaping procedures.

Thanks for the reference for the glycerin method. I've been trying to find the original source for some time without luck. So far I still can't find anything about it, but maybe you've gotten me closer. If you happen to know where to look, please let me know.


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## likesoap16 (Jun 23, 2016)

Hi All,
Informative posts! Thank you! I've been making my soaps by the Failor methods for like ever since her book came out. That is the only method I'm well versed in. I've got it down to a science by now! LOL. I keep hearing about this glycerine method. I admit I've never tried it. I have read Thompson's book, and her method of the no paste way. I admit I'm set in my ways. Is it really easier and quicker with the glycerine, no paste method? After reading the posts, it just seems like A LOT of work to me. Depending on the oils I use, I get to a paste in less than 30 minutes most days. I rarely if ever add glycerine to my soaps, maybe as an additive for clarifying and extra emolliment. I don't necessarily have to cook my paste for 4 hours either. Each oil and batch have their own characertistics and at times I have a batch done in less than two hours. I make wonderful thick gels, using primarily soft oils and some borax. Am I missing something? If the glycerine method is really quicker and easier, please fill me in! 
Thanks!
Lisa


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## topofmurrayhill (Jun 24, 2016)

likesoap16 said:


> Hi All,
> Informative posts! Thank you! I've been making my soaps by the Failor methods for like ever since her book came out. That is the only method I'm well versed in. I've got it down to a science by now! LOL. I keep hearing about this glycerine method. I admit I've never tried it. I have read Thompson's book, and her method of the no paste way. I admit I'm set in my ways. Is it really easier and quicker with the glycerine, no paste method? After reading the posts, it just seems like A LOT of work to me. Depending on the oils I use, I get to a paste in less than 30 minutes most days. I rarely if ever add glycerine to my soaps, maybe as an additive for clarifying and extra emolliment. I don't necessarily have to cook my paste for 4 hours either. Each oil and batch have their own characertistics and at times I have a batch done in less than two hours. I make wonderful thick gels, using primarily soft oils and some borax. Am I missing something? If the glycerine method is really quicker and easier, please fill me in!
> Thanks!
> Lisa



Everyone has their way of doing things.


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## Susie (Jun 24, 2016)

I did try the Failor method first.  I did not like it at all.  I see no need to use lye excess, then neutralize.  I love the method I described above.  It is no cooking, ever.  And no need for the borax step at all.  You should try it.  If you then do not like it, you will at least know what we are talking about.


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## Spice (Jul 5, 2016)

Susie said:


> Shelbyw-welcome to the forum.  Please ignore the hijack of your thread.  I assure you that this is not the normal behavior of our esteemed soapmakers.
> 
> I make cold processed liquid soap.  Which is as simple as it can get as I abhor extra steps.  Here is an abbreviated version of my current process for hand soap, it is actually IrishLass' recipe with a very minor change, to get the full version you can read the thread linked above.  Be very sure to weigh everything carefully, and always use gloves and goggles.  This has a 3% superfat.
> 
> ...


 At what percent do you figure the water? And how do you know how much dilution to do? I have been putting off LS for sometime and now I have questions.


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## Dahila (Jul 5, 2016)

Tutorials!!!!


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## DeeAnna (Jul 5, 2016)

Water + glycerin should be a total of 3 times the KOH weight for the usual way most of us make liquid soap. 

Example: If the KOH weight is 90 grams, the combined total weight of water plus glycerin should be:

3 X 90 = 270 grams

Any combination of water + glycerin can be used as long as it equals 270 grams (for this example), but the usual method is to dissolve the KOH in an equal weight of water. For the example, this would be 90 grams KOH and 90 grams of water. 

Then I would stir in the remainder of the total "water" as glycerin. Since water used to dilute the KOH is 90 grams in my example, glycerin would be the rest of the 270 grams, or:

270 - 90 = 180 grams of glycerin.

***

As far as how much dilution of the paste -- you have to find that out by trial and error. Irish Lass and Susie offer guidelines for their recipes (see post 12 above for Susie's recommended dilution for her recipe), but even with their recommendations, it's wise to sneak up on the dilution -- start with a little less water than you think and work from there. 

The reason why is because every soap maker's soap is a little different, so what works well for one soap maker might not work for another. Especially if you make a new recipe, you cannot assume the dilution you've used in the past for another recipe will work for the new recipe. There are reasons why a dilution for one soap won't work well for another recipe, but I'm going to take the KISS (keep it simple, soaper) approach, and leave things at this -- we can talk about the details another time.

When in doubt, I follow Susie's suggestion of measuring out 1 part paste and 0.5 part distilled water and diluting the paste in that water. If that's not enough water, then slowly add more water until the dilution seems right. This might be just an ounce (30 grams) at a time ... that's what I mean by sneaking up on the dilution. Keep good notes and next time you make the same recipe, you can dilute with more confidence.


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## Susie (Jul 5, 2016)

This particular recipe uses 1 part paste to 0.75 parts dilution water.  Exactly.  When I pour the soap into the jug, it forms an immediate skin on whatever is left in the pot.  It could not take one drop less water, but you do not need one drop more.  I usually scoop that skin off and poke it into the jug.  It will re-dilute itself.

I also learned (and remembered today as I was making more soap) that you can use less dilution water if you will stickblend those last 5 or 6 lumps into the dilution water.  It works, and very well at that, to decrease the dilution water.


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## Spice (Jul 6, 2016)

DeeAnna said:


> Water + glycerin should be a total of 3 times the KOH weight for the usual way most of us make liquid soap.
> 
> Example: If the KOH weight is 90 grams, the combined total weight of water plus glycerin should be:
> 
> ...



Totally dope DeeAnna; wow! This is so gooood! Between Susie and your post, I am in heaven. I will be babysitting 5 little dogs tonite and am taking my labtop to reread again and again. Thank You.


Susie said:


> This particular recipe uses 1 part paste to 0.75 parts dilution water.  Exactly.  When I pour the soap into the jug, it forms an immediate skin on whatever is left in the pot.  It could not take one drop less water, but you do not need one drop more.  I usually scoop that skin off and poke it into the jug.  It will re-dilute itself.
> 
> I also learned (and remembered today as I was making more soap) that you can use less dilution water if you will stickblend those last 5 or 6 lumps into the dilution water.  It works, and very well at that, to decrease the dilution water.



You guys are awesome!
:clap:


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## IrishLass (Jul 6, 2016)

likesoap16 said:


> Hi All,
> Informative posts! Thank you! I've been making my soaps by the Failor methods for like ever since her book came out. That is the only method I'm well versed in. I've got it down to a science by now! LOL. I keep hearing about this glycerine method. I admit I've never tried it. I have read Thompson's book, and her method of the no paste way. I admit I'm set in my ways. Is it really easier and quicker with the glycerine, no paste method?


 
Hi Lisa- I'm not familiar with Thompson's 'no paste' book, so I have no opinion either way as far as that goes, but I am familiar with Failor's book. I bought it about 6 years ago and read it, but after reading it, I must confess that it all seemed so overwhelmingly involved to me that for a very long time it had the unfortunate effect of putting me off of even thinking about attempting to try my hand at it.  

To answer your question about the ease of the glycerin method in comparison to other above methods ......it's impossible for me to offer any personal comparisons of my own, but for what its worth, when I first heard about the glycerin method on another forum a few years ago, I chanced to stumble upon a loooong thread over there where I read post after post written by numerous folk that had been doing LS the Failor way for some time, but had just recently tried doing it the glycerin way, and they were profusely praising the glycerin method for its super-quickness and ease of execution in comparison to the Failor method, as well as praising the fact that they didn't have to go through the lye excess/neutralization rigmarole so inherent in her method. 

Another benefit they liked with the glycerin method was being able to make a super-thick liquid soap without having to resort to using thickeners, especially with recipes containing a lot of coconut oil (which typically makes for rather thin liquid soap via the Failor method). Anyway, seeing all those posts at the time rekindled my hope and gave me the courage I needed to step out and finally try my hand at making liquid soap.

The first recipe I tried was 3bees~1flower's 65% OO GLS recipe- the recipe that Spice referenced in post #21 above- and I was amazed at how uncomplicated (and quick) it was to make it..... and how lovely the finished soap came out. 



likesoap16 said:


> After reading the posts, it just seems like A LOT of work to me. Depending on the oils I use, I get to a paste in less than 30 minutes most days.......I don't necessarily have to cook my paste for 4 hours either......Each oil and batch have their own characertistics and at times I have a batch done in less than two hours.


 
As Topofmurrayhill said- everyone has their own way of doing things- even amongst those of us who exclusively use the glycerin method, i.e., there are actually a couple of different ways in which the glycerin method can be approached/executed, ways which can make things either more or less easier for us depending on how we like to work.....

For example, up until recently I have mostly employed the whisk method whereby I whisk my batter (off heat) to the 'flying bubble' stage, then cover it and walk away for about 4 to 6 hours (still leaving it off the heat- no cooking whatsoever), during which time it has turned into paste on its own. Then there are the folks such as 3bees~1flower who mostly use a stick-blender instead of a whisk and are able to reach the paste stage in 3 minutes or less from the time they poured the lye solution into their oils. Depending on which way you decide to go, you can either have finished liquid soap that's ready to be packaged up in as little as 1 to 2 hours from the start, or by the end of the day at the most. It's all up to you and how you like to approach things.

You can also choose to dissolve your KOH either of 2 different ways with the glycerin method, i.e., the 'Paramacist's Method' mentioned earlier in this thread (which is more involved and carries a higher risk of potential danger), or else dissolving the KOH in an equal amount of water before adding the usual/full recipe amount of glycerin to it before adding it to the oils. Both ways work and both ways give you the same quality of liquid soap in the end, but both ways proceed differently time-wise and also otherwise (such as the in how the consistency of the paste turns out and also in how much dilution water is needed).

You should give it a try and see how you like it! 


IrishLass


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## Susie (Jul 6, 2016)

Yep, you should try it.


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## Spice (Jul 31, 2016)

Spice said:


> At what percent do you figure the water? And how do you know how much dilution to do? I have been putting off LS for sometime and now I have questions.



how do you figure the 46 oz of water for dilution? Sorry I did this wrong, Susie I was trying to see how much water I would need to dilute and you used 46 0z of water. Is that what you normal start with?


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## Susie (Jul 31, 2016)

I use that much because I have made it before, and I know from experience that IL's 1:0.75 ratio is right on the mark.  I trusted her to start with, though.


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## Spice (Jul 31, 2016)

Susie said:


> I use that much because I have made it before, and I know from experience that IL's 1:0.75 ratio is right on the mark.  I trusted her to start with, though.



I was struggling with this amount of water, because I didnt understand the "why x amount". I needed to know where this number came from. The recipe that I have uses that much or more depending on the oils, I havent made it yet because I still have questions. The amount of water, and I got the idea from your post, is that the recipe I have uses 24 oz of hemp oil and 80 oz of water to dilute the paste. If my math is right that would be 1:.30. 
I havent decided if I want to GLS yet. I need to get my questions out and then begin. Thanks for you help. I follow you.


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## Susie (Jul 31, 2016)

If you are not using a recipe from a known/trusted source, then the best advice I can give you is to sneak up on the dilution.  I would start with no more than one-third of the paste weight in water.  Then I would use no more than one-half of that amount for the next amount.  After that, I would add no more than one-eighth of the starting paste weight at the time.  Then when you have a few lumps left, try stickblending them in.  And RECORD how much water it took to dilute that recipe, as that is about the amount you will need from then on.  Just be sure to record it in a ratio format, as you may later vary how much paste you work with.

Why those numbers?  Because you have to start somewhere, and while you can add more water, removing it requires time, heat, and attention that I do not care to give to something if I can avoid it.


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## Spice (Jul 31, 2016)

Susie said:


> If you are not using a recipe from a known/trusted source, then the best advice I can give you is to sneak up on the dilution.  I would start with no more than one-third of the paste weight in water.  Then I would use no more than one-half of that amount for the next amount.  After that, I would add no more than one-eighth of the starting paste weight at the time.  Then when you have a few lumps left, try stickblending them in.  And RECORD how much water it took to dilute that recipe, as that is about the amount you will need from then on.  Just be sure to record it in a ratio format, as you may later vary how much paste you work with.
> 
> Why those numbers?  Because you have to start somewhere, and while you can add more water, removing it requires time, heat, and attention that I do not care to give to something if I can avoid it.


ok, I am done with questions, I believe I have asked the same question in more ways then one, I will be adding water in they way you have suggested. Ok, now I see, boy that took alot. Thanks.


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## Susie (Aug 1, 2016)

It is far better to ask the questions beforehand, than to ask, "What went wrong?" on the back end.  

But now you owe us pics.  Just sayin'.


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## Spice (Aug 2, 2016)

Susie said:


> It is far better to ask the questions beforehand, than to ask, "What went wrong?" on the back end.
> 
> But now you owe us pics.  Just sayin'.



You bet, I was going to get my ducks in a row today, but it will be tomorrow. I am going to do two process, first I have a recipe that its the long way. Then I will do the GLS. The long way I mean I will be pouring and stiring till the next day process. Not sure if that is a good idea, either way, when done I will post again.


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## Susie (Aug 2, 2016)

Actually, the longest way is using the Failor method of having a lye excess, cooking until you get full paste, then neutralizing with borax mixed with boiling water, and sequestering for 1-2 weeks, possibly using either alcohol or sugar to clarify.  All of which is completely unnecessary.

Which is why I wonder why people insist on doing things the hard way.


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## Spice (Aug 2, 2016)

Susie said:


> Actually, the longest way is using the Failor method of having a lye excess, cooking until you get full paste, then neutralizing with borax mixed with boiling water, and sequestering for 1-2 weeks, possibly using either alcohol or sugar to clarify.  All of which is completely unnecessary.
> 
> Which is why I wonder why people insist on doing things the hard way.


Wow, this is going to be quite an experiment. I just wrote my recipe.


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## Spice (Aug 2, 2016)

Susie said:


> Actually, the longest way is using the Failor method of having a lye excess, cooking until you get full paste, then neutralizing with borax mixed with boiling water, and sequestering for 1-2 weeks, possibly using either alcohol or sugar to clarify.  All of which is completely unnecessary.
> 
> Which is why I wonder why people insist on doing things the hard way.


I have the soap paste made, it wasnt as bad as I thought it would be. Does glycerin heat up? I am wondering because I am going to switch gears and will do the GLS after this one.


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## Susie (Aug 2, 2016)

Are you making it with glycerin to mix with the KOH, or water to mix with the KOH?  I ask because mixing the KOH with water is much easier.  And no, it does not heat up on its own, you must add heat to mix directly with KOH.  And it is not the safest option, nor does it affect the outcome.


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## enny (Aug 27, 2016)

Susie said:


> Shelbyw-welcome to the forum.  Please ignore the hijack of your thread.  I assure you that this is not the normal behavior of our esteemed soapmakers.
> 
> I make cold processed liquid soap.  Which is as simple as it can get as I abhor extra steps.  Here is an abbreviated version of my current process for hand soap, it is actually IrishLass' recipe with a very minor change, to get the full version you can read the thread linked above.  Be very sure to weigh everything carefully, and always use gloves and goggles.  This has a 3% superfat.
> 
> ...



Susie, thank you for your recipe! I want to try it and add some EO for fragrance. When and how can I add it? I need to use emulsifier for the EO?


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## Dahila (Aug 29, 2016)

Irishlass so how do you ajust the amount of water for dillution and amount of EDTA.  If you do not mind sending pm, but maybe OP would benefit from the answer. This time I am following Susie  KOH in water then glycerin.  Thanks


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## Susie (Aug 29, 2016)

enny said:


> Susie, thank you for your recipe! I want to try it and add some EO for fragrance. When and how can I add it? I need to use emulsifier for the EO?



I add EOs at the end of dilution, when the soap is still quite warm.  I can stick a bare finger in it, but I would not be comfortable leaving it there long.  I do not use emulsifiers, as I tend to stay away from problematic scents.  If you do get separation, you will need an emulsifier.  I believe IrishLass uses PS80.  I think it is equal parts PS80 to EO, but I could be wrong.


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## Koric (Aug 29, 2016)

Susie said:


> I then add Sodium lactate 1.2 oz, but this is purely optional.



Susie what does the Sodium Lactate do in LS?

You use the PS 80 keep the EO from separating, right?

Got to keep the liquid and the bar soap straight in my head.


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## Susie (Aug 29, 2016)

Sodium Lactate makes diluting the paste not such a pain in the neck.  It makes the paste "softer" for lack of a better (more scientific) definition.  I can't quote why it does it, but it makes a HUGE difference, especially if your paste sits a bit and hardens all the way up.


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## Spice (Aug 30, 2016)

My computer really mess up and I hope that I can't get the pictures of my LS/foarm soap up. They are not in order, but the last one is  the paste and then I think the first is the finally.


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## Susie (Aug 30, 2016)

You are probably going to find whatever that colorant is is going to settle out of that soap.  Liquid soap is not quite as friendly to color with CP/HP colorants.  However, you can color during dilution with liquid lab or food colorings.


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## Spice (Aug 31, 2016)

Susie said:


> You are probably going to find whatever that colorant is is going to settle out of that soap.  Liquid soap is not quite as friendly to color with CP/HP colorants.  However, you can color during dilution with liquid lab or food colorings.


yes it did. I used an indigo blue. The soap feels good. It forms great and the form is white. I just won't be doing color again. I was trying to get a video going, haven't figured out how to do that. :-| I see that color is not what I wanted. I love learning, no better way then to put up on this forum. Thanks. I will be doing a GLS next.


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