# My Version of Pear's Soap



## lsg

First, let me give credit for the inspiration to the latest tutorial on M&P soap using only glycerin as a solvent and to the thread concerning pine rosin. I probably wouldn't have thought to try this recipe otherwise. When looking up the old ingredients for Pear's soap I found listed only 8 ingredients, water, saponified palm and coconut oils, glycerin, pine rosin, rosemary and thyme oils and pear essence fragrance. I didn't have thyme EO so I used cedarwood and lemon along with the rosemary EO. I also used Fresh Pear FO from Candlepro.com. _This is a hot process recipe._ The pine rosin is a bear to melt as it is gummy and sticky when heated. I suggest you melt it and the stearic acid along with Castor oil in the microwave. Add these melted ingredients at thin trace and stick blend. The mixture will seize, but don't worry, I just put the lid on my little crockpot and continued heating until the mixture loosened up and used the stick blender again to fully emulsify all of the ingredients.

Here is the ingredient list:

144 grams Castor Oil
144 grams coconut Oil
144 grams palm Oil
Few drops Vit. E.
18 grams stearic Acid
49 grams powdered pine rosin
72 grams sodium hydroxide
190 grams distilled water

Melt the solid oils, (I used a small crockpot insert and melted the solid oils in the microwave.) Melt stearic acid and pine rosin together with Castor oil in a microwave safe container. Add lye water to palm and coconut oils and blend to thin trace. Add stearic acid, pine rosin and Castor oil mixture and blend. As I said, the mixture will get very thick quickly. Put the lid on the crockpot and heat until mixture loosens up and looks like it is separating. Hit it again with the stick blender until it looks like a thick trace. Cook, 
stirring every now and then, until mixture reaches Vaseline stage. Do a zap test. If there is no zap, add glycerin to the mixture and stir. Heat until all the paste is melted into the glycerin. Take off heat and add the FO and EO blend. Stir well and pour into mold. I used Bramble Berry's 12 bar mold.

After the cook add:
499 grams glycerin
3.4 grams cedarwood EO
3.4 grams lemon EO
3.4 grams rosemary EO
4 grams Fresh Pear FO



Hope this makes sense. If you have any questions just ask and I will try to help.


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## craftymom0263

Thank you so much for sharing


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## DeeAnna

Yes, thank you for sharing! I used Pears soap in high school for my face and liked it a lot.


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## seven

thank you for this.. too bad i dont have the rosin. wonder how to go around it, hmmm..


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## new12soap

lsg said:


> First, let me give credit for the inspiration to the latest tutorial on M&P soap using only glycerin as a solvent and to the thread concerning pine rosin. I probably wouldn't have thought to try this recipe otherwise. When looking up the old ingredients for Pear's soap I found listed only 8 ingredients, water, saponified palm and coconut oils, glycerin, pine rosin, rosemary and thyme oils and pear essence fragrance. I didn't have thyme EO so I used cedarwood and lemon along with the rosemary EO. I also used Fresh Pear FO from Candlepro.com. _This is a hot process recipe._ The pine rosin is a bear to melt as it is gummy and sticky when heated. I suggest you melt it and the stearic acid along with Castor oil in the microwave. Add these melted ingredients at thin trace and stick blend. The mixture will seize, but don't worry, I just put the lid on my little crockpot and continued heating until the mixture loosened up and used the stick blender again to fully emulsify all of the ingredients.
> 
> Here is the ingredient list:
> 
> 144 grams Castor Oil
> 144 grams coconut Oil
> 144 grams palm Oil
> Few drops Vit. E.
> 18 grams stearic Acid
> 49 grams powdered pine rosin
> 72 grams sodium hydroxide
> 190 grams distilled water
> 
> Melt the solid oils, (I used a small crockpot insert and melted the solid oils in the microwave.) Melt stearic acid and pine rosin together with Castor oil in a microwave safe container. Add lye water to palm and coconut oils and blend to thin trace. Add stearic acid, pine rosin and Castor oil mixture and blend. As I said, the mixture will get very thick quickly. Put the lid on the crockpot and heat until mixture loosens up and looks like it is separating. Hit it again with the stick blender until it looks like a thick trace. Cook,
> stirring every now and then, until mixture reaches Vaseline stage. Do a zap test. If there is no zap, add glycerin to the mixture and stir. Heat until all the paste is melted into the glycerin. Take off heat and add the FO and EO blend. Stir well and pour into mold. I used Bramble Berry's 12 bar mold.
> 
> After the cook add:
> 499 grams glycerin
> 3.4 grams cedarwood EO
> 3.4 grams lemon EO
> 3.4 grams rosemary EO
> 4 grams Fresh Pear FO
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this makes sense. If you have any questions just ask and I will try to help.


 
That looks really great! When did you make it? I will be really interested to hear how it turns out. Does it need to cure? I make transparent soap and it isn't necessary to cure it but it definitely improves with age.


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## lsg

I made it Saturday.  No, it doesn't need to cure before use, although it may loose excess water with a good cure.


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## lsg

seven said:


> thank you for this.. too bad i dont have the rosin. wonder how to go around it, hmmm..


 You may be able to get some kind of rosin from your area.


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## Nikkor

Thank you for posting the recipe! It sounds like a wonderful soap. It looks a little ambitious for my third batch of soap plus I don't have a lot of the ingredients or a crockpot dedicated for soap making. 

I think until I have more experience I will stick to recipes with fewer ingredients and less steps. I did bookmark this post for the future when I'm more comfortable with the process (and get a crockpot).

Thanks again for sharing, it is very generous of you!


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## nframe

Thank you for sharing the recipe.  I just wanted to check the quantity of glycerin (499 grams glycerin).  It seems a lot.  Is this correct?


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## shunt2011

Thank yo so very much for sharing!


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## lsg

nframe said:


> Thank you for sharing the recipe. I just wanted to check the quantity of glycerin (499 grams glycerin). It seems a lot. Is this correct?


 Yes, that is right for the glycerin.  It is used as a solvent instead of alcohol or propylene glycol.


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## nframe

Thank you.


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## gurdeep

Can you use something else rather than palm oil


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## Lindy

Pictures?  :clap:


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## lsg

Lindy, I posted a picture in the photos section.


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## lsg

gurdeep said:


> Can you use something else rather than palm oil


 You might try tallow, but be sure to adjust the lye reflecting the SAP value of tallow.


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## allane

I am wondering if this will sweat in a warm and humid environment with the high glycerine content.

Allane


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## lsg

It might if not wrapped in cellophane or plastic wrap. You can also buy those little silica bags to pack in with the soap to absorb moisture.


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## kdaniels8811

I love Pears soap - thank you so much for the recipe.  I am making it this weekend!


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## soap_rat

Thank you so much for sharing!  I want to try this although I never used Pear's soap.  I don't do FOs so I may use lemongrass and add something to soften/fruitiate it (in addition to the other EOs)


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## soap_rat

lsg, how did you get your lye amount?  Does the pine rosin or glycerin have saponifiables?  When I run the oils and stearic acid through soapcalc, even at 0 superfat it says 67.8 grams lye.  I was thinking I'd do 6% SF, is that bad?  I will check out the tutorial you mentioned, maybe it has the answer.


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## lsg

You might check out the following sources:

http://www.kremer-pigmente.com/media/files_public/60300-60310e.pdf

file:///C:/Users/Linda/Downloads/ManzoneYulex.pdf

https://archive.org/.../gumsresinstheiro00parrrich/gumsresinsth... - Similar to Full text of "Gums & resins, their occurrence, properties and ...
3 THE SCOTS PINE 13 AN INDIAN PINE PLANTATION 31 MYROXYLON PEREIRAE, .... Acid value = 140-151 Saponification value = 159-165 Soluble in alcohol ... The fresh oleoresin con- tains from 20 to 30 per cent, of an essential oil , which ..... As a rule, the commercial product is in small pieces, almost in powder, or in a .


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## DeeAnna

I think this thread deserves a "bump" to pique the interest of people interested in a Pears type soap. Thanks to lsg for sharing the recipe and method!

Here is a US company that sells rosin: http://www.diamondgforestproducts.com/


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## WeaversPort

DeeAnna said:


> I think this thread deserves a "bump" to pique the interest of people interested in a Pears type soap. Thanks to lsg for sharing the recipe and method!
> 
> Here is a US company that sells rosin: http://www.diamondgforestproducts.com/



What is a Pears type soap, and what makes it unique? I've never heard of it before.


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## lsg

Pears soap has been around for years.  It is a translucent, amber-colored soap.  The formula has been changed from the original.  Many people like it as a face soap.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pears_(soap)


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## IrishLass

WeaversPort said:


> What is a Pears type soap, and what makes it unique? I've never heard of it before.


 
It's a transparent soap made with rosin that's been around for over a few hundred years. Here's a blog post that delves into its history:
http://www.beautifulwithbrains.com/the-history-of-pears-soap/


IrishLass


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## DeeAnna

When I was in high school and college, many of us girls used Pears soap for washing our faces followed by the classic Oil of Olay moisturizer. As I recall, Pears wasn't marketed as a bath bar although there's no reason why it couldn't be used for general washing. It just had that certain cachet of being a soap one used to feel and look pretty.


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## SaltedFig

Here in Aus it was a bit of the same.

Pears was THE soap.

It had the smell (distinctive rosin amber ... I didn't smell that smell again until I took up violin ... and THEN it hit me what it was). Failed on violin (don't have the ear, as much as I wish I did - I hear ever so slightly flat, apparently ... which is probably what led to a love of melancholy music, but that's another tale ... I can play a mean Moon River, if that counts?) ... but fell in love with the rosin.

It's a beautiful, tactile thing. Adds to soap a bit like beeswax, but a lot different (rosin does brittle, makes beeswax look soft).


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## WeaversPort

How fascinating! I may have to put this on the to do someday list.


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## DeeAnna

I made a version of lsg's recipe yesterday. The main differences were substituting lard for the palm and using a bit less coconut oil. I expect my recipe will not lather a lot due to the high % of glycerin and lower % of coconut oil, but I am okay with that.

I made one mistake that created an unintended change in the process -- I had measured out the extra water and the glycerin in separate containers before I measured my 50% NaOH solution. I meant to put this lye solution into the extra water, but I managed to pour it into the glycerin instead. Rather than discard the glycerin-lye mixture, I decided to make the soap batter with everything in the pot up front -- fats, rosin, glycerin, water, lye -- and see what happened.

I expected there might be some problems, but by gosh the soap did just fine! It didn't seize nor threaten to volcano (rosin saponifies hot and hard, so it can trigger a volcano). It stayed a fluid, gooey paste the whole time. I cooked it, oh, maybe about 20 minutes, and it was zap free at that time. The finished soap is a dark amber color ... I'll post pics when I get it cut and cleaned up.


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## TheDragonGirl

This looks really interesting! Thank you for bumping it!


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## DeeAnna

Just a tidbit -- if you make this type of soap, make sure your recipe has a generous amount of the "bubbly fats" such as coconut oil. I expected less lather by using a little less coconut oil than lsg's recipe, but I didn't expect NO lather. That's a first for me. I'll keep testing as the weeks go by, but I kind of doubt my recipe is ever going to be a winner in the suds department. 

I like the deep amber color -- it does remind me of Pears. As I recall, Pears soap didn't lather a huge amount, which made it easier to rinse off my face, but it did make some suds. It's back to the drawing board for my version of this soap.


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## NsMar42111

Great, now my "try this" list is getting longer


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## Saranac

DeeAnna said:


> I made one mistake that created an unintended change in the process -- I had measured out the extra water and the glycerin in separate containers before I measured my 50% NaOH solution. I meant to put this lye solution into the extra water, but I managed to pour it into the glycerin instead. Rather than discard the glycerin-lye mixture, I decided to make the soap batter with everything in the pot up front -- fats, rosin, glycerin, water, lye -- and see what happened.



When I make my MP soap I use the glycerin in my recipe to make a 25% lye solution (1 part NaOH, 1 part water, 2 parts glycerin).  I figured if it worked for LS, it would work for bars, too.  It's never given me a problem and I like the fact that it minimizes the amount of water that cooks out while HPing--and it really helps the soap dissolve into the other solvents.



DeeAnna said:


> I expected less lather by using a little less coconut oil than lsg's recipe, but I didn't expect NO lather.



My MP recipe is 50% solvents, and it lathers nicely with 30% coconut.  I'm not sure how much coconut you used, but I would consider raising it.  I've tried 25% in an MP soap, and that worked well, but I've never worked with rosin in bars and my experience with LS points at the fact that rosin kills lather.

My LS paste contains 2% rosin.  It's not much, but it worked out to be the sweet spot for me.  I tried just about every rosin recipe in CF's book and they never lathered enough.  I ended up dropping the rosin % and finally decided on 2%.  Much higher and it seems to inhibit lather in my recipe.  I've yet to try rosin in a bar soap (I really should, I think I've got a couple tons of it!), but it may be contributing to the lack-luster lather in your bars.

Okay--I'm not sure what my point was. . . .  Hope you were looking for 2-cents.


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## DeeAnna

I used 15% coconut oil -- not remotely enough. I know higher percentages of glycerin in soap definitely reduce lather, so I attributed most if not all of my "no lather" result to the high amount of glycerin in this recipe.

Older soap making manuals, such as American Soaps written by Henry Gathmann in 1893, talk about using rosin in soap at rates from 5% to 50% of the total "fats" in the recipe. Gathmann mentioned that saponified rosin added softness and solubility to soap and was used to offset the hardness and insolubility of tallow soap and to lower the cost of the soap (at the time, rosin was very cheap). He also mentioned that rosin soap lathers well even in salt or hard water -- almost as good as 100% coconut oil soap. 

I'm not an expert with rosin soaps -- I've only used it in one batch of bar soap and this Pears-type soap. The Pears type soap isn't a good test of rosin vs. no rosin. I seem to recall the bar soap didn't lather especially well, but I don't remember much more than that. I don't have a strong opinion about what it does to the lathering ability of a soap.


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## Saranac

Fair enough, DeeAnna.  I, too, am far from an expert on Rosin and I'm sure my observations are, at best, anecdotal.  I had read so much (CF's books and a few old-timey manuals), and was so sure that Rosin was going to do such great things for my liquid soap, that I bought 5 pounds of it in December of 2012; I still have 3 pounds of it.  I can say it never lived up to my expectations.

My notes from that far back were lost, but looking back at my handwritten notes in Failor's books, I'm sure I've used upwards of 15% of my oils.  It just never seemed to add anything to the soap.  I found that 2% kept the lather where I wanted it and it allows me to (slowly) use up what I have.  As a plus, I live in an area that practical eats up anything with balsam, fir, or pine in it--and if you can make a case for all three, even better!

Truthfully, I never thought it was worth monkeying around with in bars.  Maybe the attributes the old-timers give it are best show-cased in bar form?

I've got some down time this week.  Maybe it's time I try out the bars.  Out of curiosity, how's the clarity of those you made?


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## DeeAnna

With the exception of transparent soap, I agree with you -- I question whether rosin is worth the trouble of using it in soap. Like you, I still have a big part of my 5 pound bag. 

The Diamond G people who made my rosin say you can melt rosin and bake potatoes in it. Not sure what that does for the potatoes -- maybe makes them cook faster or be fluffier?

I just got done making a batch of liquid soap today (without rosin). I'll make a note to try 2% rosin in the next batch I make and see what it brings to the party.

My pears dupe soap is translucent, not transparent. It's also rather dark -- amber or brown sugar color -- and the dark color further cuts the light transmission. There's no way you could do the "read the paper through a piece of the soap" test.


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## Saranac

DeeAnna said:


> The Diamond G people who made my rosin say you can melt rosin and bake potatoes in it. Not sure what that does for the potatoes -- maybe makes them cook faster or be fluffier?


 
Hmmm. . . . That's a new one fore me, and I have a culinary background.  I could go on for quite some time about why I think baking a potato in rosin is a waste of both the rosin and the potato, but this is a soap forum, so I'll spare you all the dissertation and resign myself to, "that sounds interesting!"



			
				Deanna said:
			
		

> My pears dupe soap is translucent, not transparent. It's also rather dark -- amber or brown sugar color -- and the dark color further cuts the light transmission. There's no way you could do the "read the paper through a piece of the soap" test.


 
I gave up on transparent soap.  The only way it worked for me was with ethanol and it's too expensive.  I'm happy just to make a MP soap that melts (I actually formulate it to use up  my scraps, so it's more of a silk-purse-from-a-sows-ear situation).  With that said, when I melt my rosin for LS I melt it in the castor oil.  I think I read that on this forum--that the castor acts as a solvent and makes it melt easier.  It seems like it takes less heat to melt it down.  I wonder if your  accidental "everything in the pot" technique required more heat to melt the rosin.

I don't think I'll get to it tomorrow or Wednesday, but Tuesday looks like it's shaping up to be a soaping day!


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## DeeAnna

The glycerin ended up in the pot at the beginning of saponification due to my absent mindedness, but that doesn't mean I melted the rosin with all the ingredients. I melted the rosin with just the castor and coconut, added the lard, heated the fats and rosin a bit more to ensure everything was fully melted and hot enough, and then added the lye, extra water, and glycerin to make the soap. It wasn't a big deal -- I don't recall having any particular trouble with the rosin melting.


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## cobbsie

How was the fragrance? This is one soap id love to be able to get a close smell to....


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## biarine

My friend only use pear soap she ever because of her psoriasis. Then she start using my 100% olive oil soap. She wanted that I will scented my soap like pear but I am not sure what the scent because I never use it. Any idea guys?


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## Raf

lsg said:


> First, let me give credit for the inspiration to the latest tutorial on M&P soap using only glycerin as a solvent and to the thread concerning pine rosin. I probably wouldn't have thought to try this recipe otherwise. When looking up the old ingredients for Pear's soap I found listed only 8 ingredients, water, saponified palm and coconut oils, glycerin, pine rosin, rosemary and thyme oils and pear essence fragrance. I didn't have thyme EO so I used cedarwood and lemon along with the rosemary EO. I also used Fresh Pear FO from Candlepro.com. _This is a hot process recipe._ The pine rosin is a bear to melt as it is gummy and sticky when heated. I suggest you melt it and the stearic acid along with Castor oil in the microwave. Add these melted ingredients at thin trace and stick blend. The mixture will seize, but don't worry, I just put the lid on my little crockpot and continued heating until the mixture loosened up and used the stick blender again to fully emulsify all of the ingredients.
> 
> Here is the ingredient list:
> 
> 144 grams Castor Oil
> 144 grams coconut Oil
> 144 grams palm Oil
> Few drops Vit. E.
> 18 grams stearic Acid
> 49 grams powdered pine rosin
> 72 grams sodium hydroxide
> 190 grams distilled water
> 
> Melt the solid oils, (I used a small crockpot insert and melted the solid oils in the microwave.) Melt stearic acid and pine rosin together with Castor oil in a microwave safe container. Add lye water to palm and coconut oils and blend to thin trace. Add stearic acid, pine rosin and Castor oil mixture and blend. As I said, the mixture will get very thick quickly. Put the lid on the crockpot and heat until mixture loosens up and looks like it is separating. Hit it again with the stick blender until it looks like a thick trace. Cook,
> stirring every now and then, until mixture reaches Vaseline stage. Do a zap test. If there is no zap, add glycerin to the mixture and stir. Heat until all the paste is melted into the glycerin. Take off heat and add the FO and EO blend. Stir well and pour into mold. I used Bramble Berry's 12 bar mold.
> 
> After the cook add:
> 499 grams glycerin
> 3.4 grams cedarwood EO
> 3.4 grams lemon EO
> 3.4 grams rosemary EO
> 4 grams Fresh Pear FO
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this makes sense. If you have any questions just ask and I will try to help.



I made this recipe but the soap its a bit sticky. I used liquid glycerin, and now I wondering if I had to use solid glycerin instead.


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## DeeAnna

Glycerin is a liquid at room temperature. If you used pure glycerin, you used the right thing.

I have never heard of pure glycerin being a solid. Transparent soap is sometimes called "glycerin soap" or wrongly just "glycerin." Sometimes people confuse pure glycerin with transparent soap due to this confusion. The solid soap, no matter what it is called, is not the same as pure glycerin (aka glycerine or glycerol).


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## Misschief

Could you use frankincense tears instead of rosin?


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## DeeAnna

I'm not sure about that, @Misschief. I've never heard about using frankincense as an alternative to rosin, but both are tree resins so it might work fine. Rosin is probably a less expensive.

The Soaping 101 lady did a video some years ago about using Dragon's Blood resin in soap -- check Youtube for "Soapmaking with Resin {dragons blood drop swirl} S2W29" so it's within the realm of reason.


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## wardbond

lsg said:


> You may be able to get some kind of rosin from your area.


I picked some up at a local dance studio supply.. ie costumes shoes etc



DeeAnna said:


> I'm not sure about that, @Misschief. I've never heard about using frankincense as an alternative to rosin, but both are tree resins so it might work fine. Rosin is probably a less expensive.
> 
> The Soaping 101 lady did a video some years ago about using Dragon's Blood resin in soap -- check Youtube for "Soapmaking with Resin {dragons blood drop swirl} S2W29" so it's within the realm of reason.


Also pine Rosin, is the powder that's left after the process that removes the natural turpentine from the pine resin (sap)


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## Raf

I have noticed that in the old tradicional way of making soap, such as Aleppo soaps, Nablus, Marseille, Patounis soap, after the soap in cooked they add some sea salt mixed with water in order to get rid of the excess of caustic soda, and glycerin and other impurities from the soap. Then they bleed the mixture through a tap located at the bottom of the pot. The result is a soap more pure that doesn´t get mushy if we leave it on water. Does anyone know the amount of salt and water require per pound or kilo or soap? I add here a video where you can see this process, in the minute 8.33 you can see how they guy open the tap.


Sorry I didnt know how to create a new thread and invite other, so I put my question here


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## Dawni

Raf said:


> Sorry I didnt know how to create a new thread and invite other, so I put my question here



Psst.. If you scroll to the very bottom of a page, you'll see a button to create new thread. Once you've posted that, others will see it and respond, no need to invite  

I'm using a phone, but it's more or less where it is even on the computer ^^


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## eldon.kerr

does the soap go soggy in use? Do you sell your soap?


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## lsg

Eldon, this is an old thread.  I don't know whether your question refers to my version of Pears soap or the post with the video.  I don't sell soap online anymore and I haven't made this recipe for quite a while.  I don't have any of this recipe on hand.


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## Vina Marquez

Thanks for all who have shared all your knowledge you can help us. God Bless Us All. No regrets to join in this group.


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## ShySoaper

lsg said:


> First, let me give credit for the inspiration to the latest tutorial on M&P soap using only glycerin as a solvent and to the thread concerning pine rosin. I probably wouldn't have thought to try this recipe otherwise. When looking up the old ingredients for Pear's soap I found listed only 8 ingredients, water, saponified palm and coconut oils, glycerin, pine rosin, rosemary and thyme oils and pear essence fragrance. I didn't have thyme EO so I used cedarwood and lemon along with the rosemary EO. I also used Fresh Pear FO from Candlepro.com. _This is a hot process recipe._ The pine rosin is a bear to melt as it is gummy and sticky when heated. I suggest you melt it and the stearic acid along with Castor oil in the microwave. Add these melted ingredients at thin trace and stick blend. The mixture will seize, but don't worry, I just put the lid on my little crockpot and continued heating until the mixture loosened up and used the stick blender again to fully emulsify all of the ingredients.
> 
> Here is the ingredient list:
> 
> 144 grams Castor Oil
> 144 grams coconut Oil
> 144 grams palm Oil
> Few drops Vit. E.
> 18 grams stearic Acid
> 49 grams powdered pine rosin
> 72 grams sodium hydroxide
> 190 grams distilled water
> 
> Melt the solid oils, (I used a small crockpot insert and melted the solid oils in the microwave.) Melt stearic acid and pine rosin together with Castor oil in a microwave safe container. Add lye water to palm and coconut oils and blend to thin trace. Add stearic acid, pine rosin and Castor oil mixture and blend. As I said, the mixture will get very thick quickly. Put the lid on the crockpot and heat until mixture loosens up and looks like it is separating. Hit it again with the stick blender until it looks like a thick trace. Cook,
> stirring every now and then, until mixture reaches Vaseline stage. Do a zap test. If there is no zap, add glycerin to the mixture and stir. Heat until all the paste is melted into the glycerin. Take off heat and add the FO and EO blend. Stir well and pour into mold. I used Bramble Berry's 12 bar mold.
> 
> After the cook add:
> 499 grams glycerin
> 3.4 grams cedarwood EO
> 3.4 grams lemon EO
> 3.4 grams rosemary EO
> 4 grams Fresh Pear FO
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this makes sense. If you have any questions just ask and I will try to help.


Will be trying. Just got my pear fragrance from ng yesterday.


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## David Gregory

What size are the bars this recipe makes ? My molds are approx 4 oz. I guess it won't matter. Just ordered powdered pine rosin. Gathering the rest of the ingredients and have been obsessing today.

I have used Pears for years and I may take a stab at pine tar soap as well. Nose bleeding.... way over my skis.....


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## David Gregory

Well, it's on. Gathered all the ingredients but need a few more ounces of castor oil. Have to pick that up and everything will be set.
I measured everything out last night. I am not happy with my EOs [not very potent] or the fragrance profile I adapted from your adaptation ISG. I may just use cedarwood and lemon. 
This works or I am back to three ingredient recipes. There are two pounds of back up lard in the fridge.


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## Nibiru2020

*lsg*
How about some photos of your finished soap?  Inquiring minds, such as mine, need to know!


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## Peachy Clean Soap

Thx for sharing' another soap Ive gotta make.


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## David Gregory

Nibiru2020 said:


> *lsg*
> How about some photos of your finished soap?  Inquiring minds, such as mine, need to know!


They ug-leee Nibiru, but:


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## David Gregory

Fragrance cooked off, so zero scent. I had them under a fan for three weeks and rotated them. They never cleared up.
Educational value: off the charts though


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## lsg

Nibiru2020 said:


> *lsg*
> How about some photos of your finished soap?  Inquiring minds, such as mine, need to know!







__





						My Attempt at Pears Soap
					

The formula for the old time Pear's Soap has changed, so I thought I would try my hand at making my own using the originial ingredients. As you can see it is not clear like Pears, but it smells wonderful. I will gladly share my recipe if anyone wants it. Just pm me.




					www.soapmakingforum.com


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## Nibiru2020

lsg said:


> __
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Attempt at Pears Soap
> 
> 
> The formula for the old time Pear's Soap has changed, so I thought I would try my hand at making my own using the originial ingredients. As you can see it is not clear like Pears, but it smells wonderful. I will gladly share my recipe if anyone wants it. Just pm me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.soapmakingforum.com


Well shucks... LOL!  Sounds like something that I would do!  
No es problemo, mi Amigo!


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## bluebirdwing

Is the pine rosin is same as the rosin used for violin? If it is I have some bars bought for my violin.


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## lsg

bluebirdwing said:


> Is the pine rosin is same as the rosin used for violin? If it is I have some bars bought for my violin.


I have no idea.


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