# A Newbie's LS Gylcerine Experience



## tinterz (Apr 8, 2015)

First of all let me just say when i say newbie i really mean im a newbie to soaping in general and this is my first experience in dealing with soap of any kind.

so yesterday i tried to make my first LS using the glycerine method
The Oils i used was 5% castor oil 30% Coconut Oil 65% Olive Oil

I measured out my oils and placed it in my crock pot and set it on low just to start heating it up. While that was warming up I heated my glycerine to just over 200°F then slowly added my KOH flakes. (good thing i've been reaserching alot and i was fully aware that it would bubble up vigorously when i added the KOH flakes to the hot glycerine) I stired on and off the heat until all the flakes were dissolved.

When all the KOH flakes was dissolved i slowly added the KOH mixture to the warmed oils then stick blended for around 10 mins.(I honestly think i over blended because there was a thick white foamy layer on top when i noticed bubbles fly) then i set my crock pot on low and let it cook for 30 mins. 

After 30 mins i checked the soap and it there was a white foam on top with clear liquid on the bottom. so i stired and tested it with phenol. it was dark pink. let it cook for an hour longer and checked with phenol again and it was still dark pink but i was curious and so i did a calrity test and it came out clear. Since this was my first time making soap i was afraid that it would be still too caustic to use so i cooked it for another 30 mins and checked again. Still dark pink. so after trying the zap test and the clarity test i was about to throw in the towel and admit defeat but i decided it was late and i should just let it sit over night so that the KOH can do its thing.

When i woke up i checked my LS paste and it was a super thick yet pliable and i did the phenol test and it came out clear. right now i have around 2kilos of soap paste and im ready to dillute it. Im still waiting on for my ph meter though. just so that i know that my finished LS has a safe ph. Actually im just curious as to what the ph of the soap im using now compared to the soap i made. 

As I transfered the LS Paste i got some on my hands so i washed my hands and the soap felt really moisturizing. I have high hopes for this soap. I seriously don't want to buy LS any more.

oh btw i used 2 methods of testing my soap with phenol.
1. drop it straight onto the soap paste
2. dilluted some soap in a 1:1 water to alchol solution with some phenol in it.

i forgot to take pictures of the process but ill keep you updated when i finally dillute my paste 

I would love to hear some comments to improve my technique.


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## FGOriold (Apr 8, 2015)

1.  It is normal to get a layer of foamy paste on the surface and a darker translucent liquid underneath when you stick blend for too long, it will not ruin your soap paste or soap.
2.  Liquid soap will have a pH in the range of 9 - 10 which is quite normal. 

It sounds like you did a great job using the glycerin method. The only suggestion I have is that instead of heating up your glycerin and adding your KOH while hot, you can add your KOH to room temperature glycerin then slowly heat them together. If find that this is a bit safer as I never get the bubbling up of the mixture when the KOH is added to super hot glycerin.

Great job!


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## tinterz (Apr 8, 2015)

FGOriold said:


> 1.  It is normal to get a layer of foamy paste on the surface and a darker translucent liquid underneath when you stick blend for too long, it will not ruin your soap paste or soap.
> 2.  Liquid soap will have a pH in the range of 9 - 10 which is quite normal.
> 
> It sounds like you did a great job using the glycerin method. The only suggestion I have is that instead of heating up your glycerin and adding your KOH while hot, you can add your KOH to room temperature glycerin then slowly heat them together. If find that this is a bit safer as I never get the bubbling up of the mixture when the KOH is added to super hot glycerin.
> ...




Thank you very much i do want to know though
when i do heat them up do i still need to reach 200°F?


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## FGOriold (Apr 8, 2015)

You just want the KOH to dissolve, I don't really measure the temp, just heat slowly until dissolved.


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## DeeAnna (Apr 8, 2015)

Yes, you still have to heat 100% glycerin to get the KOH to dissolve. It's exactly the same as what you have already done except for the point at which you add the KOH.

As an alternative to using 100% KOH for your recipe, you can dissolve the KOH in its own weight of distilled water. The KOH will dissolve quickly in water at room temperature so no extra heating is needed. Subtract the weight of the water from the glycerin weight. Add the glycerin after the KOH is dissolved and then continue with your recipe as usual.

Example -- 
A recipe calls for 150 g of KOH and 400 grams of water and/or glycerin. (I'm picking numbers out of the air.) 
Dissolve the 150 g KOH in 150 g distilled water. 
Glycerin weight = (Total water/glycerin needed) - (Water used to dissolve KOH) = 400 - 150 = 250 g glycerin.
Mix the glycerin into the KOH solution.
Make your liquid soap.


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## tinterz (Apr 8, 2015)

does this take long to trace? or since there is glycerin in it does it spped up reaching trace?


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## FGOriold (Apr 8, 2015)

Any amount of glycerin will help speed up trace when making liquid soap.  Every once in a while, I have a water only batch that just seems to be taking forever to trace and I will add an ounce or two of glycerin to the mixture and boom - it quickly moves forward.

If you want to do part water, part glycerin you just have to make sure you use enough water to dissolve the KOH which is a minimum of 1:1, preferable 1.1:1 for me. You can do 50% water/50% glycerin or any combination once you determine your minimum water amount.


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## DeeAnna (Apr 8, 2015)

I agree with Faith -- even a small amount of glycerin reduces the time to trace. The reason why is that soap is more soluble in glycerin than it is in water. If you make the soap in the batter more soluble, the soap can emulsify the fats and lye better. If you emulsify the fats and lye more thoroughly, they become much better mixed and thus can saponify faster.


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## tinterz (Apr 8, 2015)

thank you for the information can't wait to try this one out  thanks you again for all thw comments i really appreciate it


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## DeeAnna (Apr 8, 2015)

I was just giving you a beginning suggestion about using some water with glycerin, but as Faith explains, you aren't limited to my original suggestion of water weight equal to the KOH weight. As long as you have water equal to or more than the KOH weight, you are good. 

I have used 1/3 water and 2/3 glycerin and the other way around -- 2/3 water and 1/3 glycerin -- all with good results.


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## Susie (Apr 9, 2015)

tinterz said:


> Im still waiting on for my ph meter though. just so that i know that my finished LS has a safe ph.



You don't have to wait for a pH meter.  You can zap test the paste, just as you zap test CP bar soap.  

You also don't have to cook liquid soap paste.  You can CP it.


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## tinterz (Apr 10, 2015)

Susie said:


> You don't have to wait for a pH meter.  You can zap test the paste, just as you zap test CP bar soap.
> 
> You also don't have to cook liquid soap paste.  You can CP it.



thank you susie for the information

this is my first time trying to make soap ever and next time ill try to CP it. how long do i have to wait before i can zap test if ever i try to CP? after i hit trace does that mean i can just leave it overnight to saponify?


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## Susie (Apr 10, 2015)

Here is a good discussion about CP liquid soap.  Several of us discuss the process, and what each of us does:

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=49852&highlight=cold+process+liquid+soap

I get my soap to paste stage, then cover it with the lid until I have the kitchen cleaned up...about 15 minutes, sometimes more.  I have yet to get zapped, but others have.  So, if you want to leave it overnight, that should be sufficient.


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