# CPOP: Cold Process Oven Process



## Basia (Feb 17, 2013)

I've never heard of CPOP soap before, hovewer, I am very new (about one month) to CP soap.  Could someone explain this process please?


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## melstan775 (Feb 17, 2013)

From what I understand, CPOP is cold process soap, but when you're done you put it in an oven overnight to get some of the moisture out of it. The oven is set to 170 degrees then turned off when it is preheated. You just put the soap in there, you're not trying to cook it at all. The point is to get it to saponify faster.


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## Hazel (Feb 17, 2013)

CPOP is pretty much how melstan775 described it. Basically, the oven takes the place of covering with towels or blankets. It helps to force the gel phase so the batch takes less time to saponify. Also, you don't end up with a partially gelled batch which can sometimes occur when only using a towel or blanket for insulation.

I want to mention CPOP only helps with saponification. It is not a substitute for curing. Although, it may slightly shorten the curing period  because of the evaporation of some water while in the oven.


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## Marieke (Feb 17, 2013)

I do that regurly but only with soaps that contain no or only a little sugery ingredients like goat milk or honey. I keep temperature between 140-160 and leave the oven on for 5-6 hours. Then I take the soap out and cover it with towels and a blanket.


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## Basia (Feb 17, 2013)

So your loaf sits in the oven for about 6 hr. while the oven is on?  Is your loaf covered up or not?


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## VanessaP (Feb 17, 2013)

That is a LONG time to leave the soap in the warm oven - I would be very afraid of getting overheated soap keeping it that warm for that long. At most, I leave my oven on 170 for 1 hour while the soap is in and just leave the soap in there while the oven cools. I never get partial gel when I do that.


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## Hazel (Feb 17, 2013)

I do it the same as VanessaP. I leave the oven on for 1 hour, turn it off and leave the soap in the oven for several hours but I prefer to leave them in it overnight. If I have to take the soap out, I wrap the molds in towels for insulation.

I like to use parchment baking paper to cover the molds. Last night, I had to use freezer paper with the shiny side up because I forgot to buy more parchment paper. It worked out fine.


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## Marieke (Feb 17, 2013)

Basia said:


> So your loaf sits in the oven for about 6 hr. while the oven is on?  Is your loaf covered up or not?



Yes, I cover it with some seran wrap. Uncoverd the soap forms little bubbles on top like these:


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## Basia (Feb 17, 2013)

How long do you have to cure the CPOP soap once is out of the oven and when is it safe to use it? :eh:


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## Hazel (Feb 17, 2013)

Soap is safe to use as long as all the lye has reacted and the soap doesn't zap. Just remember it's not at it's best and may be a little harsh feeling or drying on your skin. However, curing allows for more water evaporation, lather improves (more dense & bubbly) and for the soap to become milder. I notice a difference in 2 weeks but I still cure soap for at least 4 weeks to make sure excess water has evaporated and the soap has "hardened".

I'd say it's personal preference. If you're a bit impatient, perhaps try a bar at 2 weeks and see how it is and how it holds up in the shower. If it seems soft and is used up quickly then you know it does need a longer curing time. I don't recommend a 2 week cure normally but I can understand how hard it is to wait to test a bar. If you're going to give the soap as a gift or sell it, I strongly recommend at least a 4 week curing time. I cure soap for at least 4 weeks. I tested a regular gelled 4+ oz bar which had cured for 4 weeks and it lasted a month for me. However, I didn't use the bar every day but I used it at least 5 days every week.


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## Basia (Feb 17, 2013)

Thank you Guys for all the information, is has been helpful :idea:

Basia


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## Hazel (Feb 18, 2013)

You're welcome! On SoapQueen's blog, she did a series on hot process method and she discussed CPOP, etc. I found one of the links which you might find more informative.

http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/cold-process-soap/hot-process-series-cpop-swirls/


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## Basia (Feb 19, 2013)

Thank you again Hazel.


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## new12soap (Feb 19, 2013)

Unfortunately my oven does not have a setting for 170F, so when I do CPOP, I turn the oven on to "warm" which is below 200F, and as soon as I put the soap in the oven I turn the oven off.  If I leave the oven on for even half an hour my soap will overcook, so your mileage may vary depending on your recipe and your oven. I also leave the soap in until the oven is completely cool, usually overnight.


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## MaitriBB (Feb 19, 2013)

I preheat to 170 and then turn off, put the soap in within its log mold, and let it sit overnight, sometimes 24 hours (i usually soap in the evenings after the kids are in bed).  I soap 100% goats milk but have not had any problems doing it this way.  I do spray the soap top with 90% rubbing alcohol before it goes in the oven, though.


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## SueSoap (Feb 19, 2013)

Soap Queen recently did a very nice tutorial on CPOP.


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## Lilahblossom (Feb 19, 2013)

I have been doing cpop recently because I have had problems with getting my soap to even saponify in the bitter cold of Wisconsin. I know I will have gel with the cpop. I just have oven on 170 for an hour or two then turn off.


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## Marieke (Feb 19, 2013)

This is a 100% OO soap I made yesterday. I poured at 13.00 h and put it in the oven for 5 hours. I took it out of the mold 30 hours after pouring and cut it. The picture isn't great, it's already too dark to take a decent picture.


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## Hazel (Feb 19, 2013)

Marieke -

That is a beautiful soap! I love the swirls in it.

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/members/marieke


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## Trxflyer (Feb 19, 2013)

Cool, looks like fire!


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## Marieke (Feb 20, 2013)

Thank you, I'm quite happy with it.


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## tweetibyrd (Jan 6, 2014)

*So true*



Marieke said:


> Yes, I cover it with some seran wrap. Uncoverd the soap forms little bubbles on top like these:



I was afraid to cover mine thinking the plastic might melt and my soap was COVERED in little ripples and bubbles. I just trimmed the top off. This should be fine I think. I just wish I had covered it.


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## paillo (Jan 6, 2014)

I CPOP almost everything, but if it's a loaf with a nice textured top I let it gel overnight in the mold, then CPOP the next morning. It goes thru a second gel but since it's already gelled, my pretty tops don't melt from the CPOP. I'll never go back to just gelling or preventing gel, love this method


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## cleancanvas (Dec 14, 2014)

*please help- cpop*

Hey everyone. This is my first ever asking a question online so I really hope someone can be kind enough  to reply.
 I know how to make cp and hp soap but last night I made my very first cpop. The soap is firm but it has a thin layer of oil all around it. Not sure why that happen. Did I not leave it in long enough? I did 170F for 30 mins. I didn't do the full hour because little bubbles began popping all on the surface ruining my swirl. Is it even possible to have a decorative top like peaks and swirls with this process because it seems to melt away? 
 Please help with tips on how to avoid these problems because I really want to use this method successfully. Sorry for all the questions


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## girlishcharm2004 (Dec 14, 2014)

It's possible that it got too hot.  Did you use a silicone mold? Or a silicone-lined wooden mold?


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## IrishLass (Dec 14, 2014)

Welcome Cleancanvas! 

 It sounds to me like the soap was actually getting too hot. It's a good thing you removed it from the oven when you did (at least in my opinion).

 When I do CPOP, I only heat my oven to 120F/49C and then I turn it off once I put my soap in there, where I then let it sit undisturbed overnight. My soaping temps are normally anywhere from 110F - 120F, and happily having my oven pre-heated to only 120F is all the encouragement my soap needs in order for it to gel. I know a lot of people heat their ovens to 170F, but I've found that to be way to hot for my CP soaps (it causes problems in them). For what it's worth, my peaks come out just fine with my CPOP method.

 IrishLass


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## Fit_and_Prosperous (Dec 17, 2014)

Okay, first time here! I made soap with a friend of mine (she's the expert) around Thanksgiving. The batch before TG is dry and ready. The two batches I made the week AFTER, however, are still not done.

They were CP only, in a gel mold that was then placed in a wooden box. I sliced them into bricks after 24 hours, and they've been sitting on parchment paper in my bedroom since. 

The remaining bricks have circles in the middle (moisture), and I don't know how to speed up the curing time.

Is there any way to speed it up 3+ weeks after they've been cut?

I would LOVE for these to be Christmas presents, but I can't give them out if they're not cured.

Thank you so much for the help. I love all the knowledge on this forum!

Jami


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## JustBeachy (Dec 17, 2014)

The circles in the centers sound more like partial gel.  Just aesthetic, won't hurt your soap.

And, sorry no. There is no way to speed up the cure. It's more than just the water curing out.


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## Fit_and_Prosperous (Dec 17, 2014)

Okay, so these are safe?

I grabbed a few and put them on a table in front of my West-facing windows. I have a fan blowing on them to see if that will help too. You can see the ring getting smaller.


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## Seawolfe (Dec 17, 2014)

Yeah that's partial gel - that's just aesthetic, doesn't hurt anything.
If you made those on Thanksgiving day - 27 Nov, then 4 weeks would be 25 Dec - so the earliest cure time (but they might get better with more).
You can try them now if you like.


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## JustBeachy (Dec 17, 2014)

Zap test them to be sure, but yep, that looks like a partial gel ring.


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## DeeAnna (Dec 17, 2014)

If you think about it, you'll most likely realize the bars that have the smaller rings are from the ends of the loaf. The ones with a largest rings are from the center of the loaf. 

The dark center bullseye in each bar is where the soap was fully gelled during saponification. The hotter center of the loaf gels more completely so those bars will have a bigger bullseye than bars from the cooler ends. 

The rings won't ever disappear or get smaller, but they may become less noticeable as the soap dries and cures.


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## Fit_and_Prosperous (Dec 17, 2014)

SO I zap tested most of them and all I got was a mild soap test. Nothing else. I'm good to wrap them up this weekend and send?

Next time I make a batch, I think I'll follow the CPOP method with the oven in the very beginning. It might buy me a week or two.


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## The Efficacious Gentleman (Dec 17, 2014)

Fit_and_Prosperous said:


> ...........Next time I make a batch, I think I'll follow the CPOP method with the oven in the very beginning. It might buy me a week or two.



Not really.  Even gelled soaps need a cure.  While some people cure bars for 6 or 8 weeks, most people agree that 4 weeks is really the minimum cure time before soap can be considered ready for use.

Of course, you CAN go with less of a cure, but you will be then giving your friends lower quality soap that is going to be used up quicker in use - in other words, a sub-par gift.


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## shunt2011 (Dec 17, 2014)

^^^^

This exactly.  I never send soap to anyone without a full cure.  I personally prefer 6-8 weeks but 4 will work in a pinch.  I've heard of some folks putting a do not use until date on it but I wouldn't do that either.  Just because it says do not use doesn't mean they won't. So, 4 week at the earliest.  Longer better!


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## DeeAnna (Dec 17, 2014)

As someone who does CPOP, I really don't see a difference in the cure time. All CPOP does is ensure gel, but it doesn't magically affect the amount of water loss, improvement in lather, and reduction in water solubility that happens during cure. I second the Gent's comments.


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## IrishLass (Dec 17, 2014)

I third Gent's comment and second DeeAnna's.  

I CPOP my soap, too, and I definitely concur with those who say there's really no way to speed cure ('cure' meaning water loss, _plus_ the chemical micro-changes that take place in the matrix of the soap that bring about improvements in the soap's lathering abilities, reductions in solubility, which affect the longevity of the soap, increased mildness, etc....). Nobody in my circle of family and friends gets any of my soap before it's time. I want it to be the best it can be for them so that they don't ever view my handmade soap in a negative light. 

Mine get a cure of _at least_ 4 weeks. That's when they are at their earliest best for me and won't rain down shame and embarrassment upon me if I gift it to someone, lol, but they grow even more lovely after a few extra weeks of cure beyond that.


IrishLass


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## JustBeachy (Dec 17, 2014)

I'm just going to agree with everyone,   I CPOP all my soaps, with the exception of the salt bars. While I test the new recipes starting at one week, I don't really pay that much attention to the quality's of the bar until week 4. The difference between week 4 and weeks 6 to 8 are astronomical. 

Just gotta wait it out man.


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## ShaeDB (Nov 4, 2016)

Marieke, your soap is beautiful-like a rose sitting amidst flames. I love it. My avocado puree and creamy HP butterfly Swirl had partial gel. The creamy HP is still soft at 3wks. Any advice?


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## Susie (Nov 4, 2016)

This thread is two years old.  You may do better starting a new thread with your question.

I don't HP, so I am no help.


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## IrishLass (Apr 3, 2017)

ShaeDB- sadly, Marieke has not visited the forum since 2015. I would take Susie's excellent advice to start a new thread with your question. You'll generate a lot more answers that way. 


IrishLass


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## deighturp (Sep 19, 2017)

So the bottom line is:  doing the tongue test, if it doesn't Zap your tongue that means it ready to use/wrap/sale?


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## toxikon (Sep 19, 2017)

deighturp said:


> So the bottom line is:  doing the tongue test, if it doesn't Zap your tongue that means it ready to use/wrap/sale?



No. The zap test shows that there is no excess lye in your soap. The soap, whether hot process or cold process, still needs a minimum of 4 weeks to cure. If you use it or sell  it before then, it will be soft and drying on your skin. The 4 weeks allow the structure of the soap to change and become much better. The soap needs airflow during the cure, so no wrapping either.


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## Richard Perrine (Aug 11, 2018)

Marieke said:


> Yes, I cover it with some seran wrap. Uncoverd the soap forms little bubbles on top like these:
> 
> View attachment 1216



Aha! Thank you. I did CPOP a couple of weeks ago and saw these bubbles. So, covering with seran wrap while the oven is cooling prevents them. Got it! 

I am a little baffled regarding the difference between CPOP and HP. Fundamentally, both achieve the gelled state of the soap indicating that saponification has completed, right? So, why is the HP soap okay to use immediately and the CPOP is not? Are they not, essentially, in the same state? Or am I missing something? 

Thank you all. I am loving this soap making hobby and the science behind it. :-D


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## DeeAnna (Aug 11, 2018)

Any soap is safe to use on the skin shortly after saponification is done -- anywhere from a few hours for HP to 12 hours to several days for CP, depending on the CP technique used.

In CPOP or any other cold process method, you mold the soap and _then _it finishes saponifying in the mold. In HP, the soap mostly or completely saponifies in the soap pot and _then _you put it in the mold. Some people would also say HP methods usually include heating the soap batter in the pot and CP methods do not heat the soap batter, but that's not a clear cut distinction for HP vs CP in my mind.

When a soap becomes a gel, all that means is the soap got hot enough to turn from a solid form into a liquidy gel state. Reaching gel during sapoinification is not proof positive that saponification is complete. While it may be true the soap may is 99% done saponifying at that point, you can't absolutely know saponification is finished without testing. 

It is also possible to create recipes that are not able to go into gel during saponification -- and they will still saponify quite nicely.


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## Richard Perrine (Aug 11, 2018)

DeeAnna said:


> Any soap is safe to use on the skin shortly after saponification is done -- anywhere from a few hours for HP to 12 hours to several days for CP, depending on the CP technique used.
> 
> In CPOP or any other cold process method, you mold the soap and _then _it finishes saponifying in the mold. In HP, the soap mostly or completely saponifies in the soap pot and _then _you put it in the mold. Some people would also say HP methods usually include heating the soap batter in the pot and CP methods do not heat the soap batter, but that's not a clear cut distinction for HP vs CP in my mind.
> 
> ...



Thank you so much, DeeAnna! This information sheds a new ray of light for me.


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## penelopejane (Aug 12, 2018)

The problem with dragging up old threads is that soaping methods and CPOPing has changed since 2013. Do not follow the 2013 posts to CPOP. Read current threads about the process as it is now used. 

DeeAnna’s advice is not outdated.


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## BoSA (Feb 10, 2020)

I tried geling my soap with a heating pad and towel but I only got partial gel. Can I restart the gel phase 3 days later?


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## DeeAnna (Feb 10, 2020)

The "gel phase" is simply soap that's gotten warm enough to turn from a solid into a vaseline-like jelly form. Most soapers think soap only gels during saponification, but that's not strictly true. If you heat any soap until it's sufficiently warm enough, it will change from solid to a gel.

Here's a method to fix soap that has only partly gelled -- https://classicbells.com/soap/rescueOP.asp I recommend you watch Soapish's video first before you leap into action.


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## Dawn Bradley (Feb 10, 2020)

Nice beautiful swirl design


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## TheGecko (Feb 11, 2020)

Marieke said:


> Yes, I cover it with some seran wrap. Uncoverd the soap forms little bubbles on top



Now I know why I got bubbles on my Cantaloupe...another lesson learned.  Thank you.


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## shunt2011 (Feb 11, 2020)

@TheGecko Marieke hasn't been here since 2015.


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## DeeAnna (Feb 11, 2020)

Marieke was heating her soap for waaaaay too long, so it's no surprise to me the soap developed defects. I would not heat soap for 5-6 hours as she describes in Post #4.

If you want to know how to do the CPOP method for best results, ignore the 2013 posts and start reading this thread at Irish Lass's post #26.


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## TheGecko (Feb 11, 2020)

DeeAnna said:


> Marieke was heating her soap for waaaaay too long, so it's no surprise to me the soap developed defects. I would not heat soap for 5-6 hours as she describes in Post #4.



I wasn't doing the 'old' way...it was an accident.  I usually turn the over off BEFORE I put the soap in, but this last time I got distracted and forgot.  Didn't realize it until several hours later.

So while 'baking' your soap is not a good thing, knowing the negative results is.



shunt2011 said:


> @TheGecko Marieke hasn't been here since 2015.



The information is still good and maybe someone else will see it and NOT 'bake' their soap.


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## shunt2011 (Feb 11, 2020)

TheGecko said:


> The information is still good and maybe someone else will see it and NOT 'bake' their soap.


That is fine but you don't need to quote someone not here.   You can make all the comments you want.


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## CatahoulaBubble (Feb 11, 2020)

Old but important to note that you shouldn't leave your oven on while it's curing. You heat the oven to 170 then turn it off and put the soap in.


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## shunt2011 (Feb 11, 2020)

It's not curing in the oven, I think you meant to say it's  just forcing gel & the saponification process.  I don't CPOP any more as I've mastered my recipes getting them to gel without it.  Plus I make too many at a time to be bothered. I also found 170 too hot.  Caused issues.


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## IrishLass (Feb 11, 2020)

Speaking only for myself, I found out the hard way that heating my oven to 170 before turning it off causes aesthetic issues in my soap such as a bubbled/blistered look on its surfaces, and it also seemed to contribute to 'glycerin rivers'. I only let my oven heat up to anywhere between 110 degreesF and 120 degreesF maximum before turning it off and placing my soap inside it. I should mention that like most ovens, mine doesn't have an actual setting for 110F or 120F, but it does have a digital read-out display that shows me the changing temps as it is heating up, and it turns out that my oven takes only a mere 3 minutes to reach 110F from the time I turn it on.


IrishLass


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## Mobjack Bay (Feb 11, 2020)

shunt2011 said:


> I don't CPOP any more as I've mastered my recipes getting them to gel without it.


What an interesting way to think about formulating a recipe.  It seems there is always more to learn about making soap.


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## TheGecko (Feb 11, 2020)

shunt2011 said:


> That is fine but you don't need to quote someone not here.   You can make all the comments you want.



Seriously?!?  Not a problem.


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## dandelion seifee (Feb 17, 2020)

temperature of the oven is in relation to the watercontent of the soap
when you have lyewater over about 28% (in relation to your total amount of fat/oil ) your oven can be warmer (around 160 F , 70 C) to force gelphase
I usually soap with a steep waterdiscount (everything from 16-25%) my soaps are not supposed to gel (that would need distiinctly more heat) my oven is around 122 F, 50 C for a few hours to get full saponification, and no sodaash

the point is, you can not generalize the temperature of the oven when CPOPing since it very much depends on the recipe


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## Katie68121 (Mar 15, 2021)

Replying to this old thread with a CPOP question if anyone can help? Can I used a wooden mold with silicone liner for CPOP? Glued not screwed...


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## Peachy Clean Soap (Mar 15, 2021)

Personally I wouldn't, but what you can do put a heating pad under soap cover it with a towel or have it in a cupboard. Keep an eye on it' once it reaches jell stage' turn heating pad off let it cool down tell the next day. Or just cover it if its in a cupboard or a location it stays warm. once the soap starts to heat up' it will usually continue to generate it's own heat source.


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## earlene (Mar 16, 2021)

Katie68121 said:


> Replying to this old thread with a CPOP question if anyone can help? Can I used a wooden mold with silicone liner for CPOP? Glued not screwed...



First off, as long as your CPOP temperatures don't go high enough to melt the glue, yes, you can.  I do and have never had an issue.  I have not smelled melting glue or had my molds deteriorate.  I usually CPOP at around 135-150°F, using a setting slightly below the lowest on my oven's temperature knob & an oven thermometer to verify the temp before putting the soap inside (and turning off the oven.)

I use my wooden molds with silicone liners, but I'd have to double check on if any don't have screws.  I think they all do. However, I am pretty sure that at least some of the molds that do have permanent screws probably also have glue.  By permanent, I mean the ones that aren't the 'come-apart' kinds of molds with the long bolts & wing-nuts, so the sides can be removed. And at least one of them is made of plywood or pressed wood, so it definitely has glue as that is used in the process of making plywood.  

Burning plywood in a woodstove or in a fireplace is ill-advised because it releases toxins into the air, but I do not heat my oven for CPOP to such high temperatures.   Wood glue starts to melt at 120°C which is 248°F, so that's not a problem for the temps I use for CPOP either.  Urea formaldehyde glue, used in making plywood melts at 230°C which is 460°F, so again, no problem for CPOP.


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## penelopejane (Mar 16, 2021)

Katie68121 said:


> Replying to this old thread with a CPOP question if anyone can help? Can I used a wooden mold with silicone liner for CPOP? Glued not screwed...


If you preheat your oven to 110*F and turn it off before you put your silicone lined timber mold which you wrap in a blanket or towels you can.  That is the true CPOP method that is foolproof. 

But if you are going to keep the oven on while your soap is in the oven or preheat your oven to over 110*F I would not do it. 
There are lots and lots of threads on this forum where people have overheated their molds and they now have a silicone rash.  it's an invisible rash that shows itself every time you use the mold again giving the soap pock like marks all over the sides that touch the mold. 
I wouldn't risk it. 
Silicone molds are expensive.


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## Goldy (Jul 6, 2021)

First off, I hope this thread is not too old for me to post. If it is I apologize. My oven is very warm just from the pilot flame. So I don't usually turn it on. I just put the soap in for about an hour and then take it out to cool. Should I leave it in for longer because I obviously can't "turn it off and let it sit overnight". Also, does anyone know if the CPOP would fade the scent of soaps made with essential oils? Thanks for all the helpful info on here!


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## Susie (Jul 8, 2021)

Goldy said:


> First off, I hope this thread is not too old for me to post. If it is I apologize. My oven is very warm just from the pilot flame. So I don't usually turn it on. I just put the soap in for about an hour and then take it out to cool. Should I leave it in for longer because I obviously can't "turn it off and let it sit overnight". Also, does anyone know if the CPOP would fade the scent of soaps made with essential oils? Thanks for all the helpful info on here!



The idea is to get that soap into an environment that is hot enough long enough to force it to go through gel. And you only want to do that when you either get no gel (and want it to gel), or you get partial gel.  This is a method for rescuing bars that would otherwise not be as pretty as you want them to be, so trying to preserve scent is a balance you are going to have to figure out. 

I would not have put the mold above in my oven. I don't have a gas stove, so I have to go to 170F as that is the lowest my oven will go. It would have melted the wood glue. But you have to make decisions based on your current situation.

I personally put my molds on a heating pad to force gel as soon as I pour them. Layer old beach towels on top of the molds, and watch them closely for the next few hours. If you see gel reaching the sides, turn the heating pad off, pull the towels off, and let the soap cool.


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## Goldy (Jul 8, 2021)

So are you saying that the oven should only be used as a rescue method?


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## SPowers (Jul 8, 2021)

Basia said:


> So your loaf sits in the oven for about 6 hr. while the oven is on?  Is your loaf covered up or not?



I was told gel takes place with 2 hrs so I set my time for 2 hrs then take it out.  I've never had a problem with any soap even if it contains sugary ingredients.  The heat helps to equalize the temperature of the soap throughout without which the soap can crack/overheat/volcano.

@Goldy - no it's not just a rescue method.  I do it for every soap I make.


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## AliOop (Jul 8, 2021)

I agree, it's not just a rescue method for me either, although I have used it to rescue partially-gelled soap. But I do prefer the heating pad method since I don't want the FO or EO scent to transfer to my oven - which it does, although I don't find it makes the scent of the soap fade any faster.


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## penelopejane (Jul 9, 2021)

CPOP is not just a rescue method.  It is a method of ensuring gel. 
You need to heat your oven to about 120*F (50*(Yes this is very low) and then turn it off.  Wrap your soap in towels, put it in the oven and leave it, undisturbed for 12 hours.  Do not open the door.  

If you have an oven with a pilot light (exposed gas flame) and it will not turn off this method is not for you. 
You can use a polystyrene box to do the same thing.  Wrap your soap and put it in the polystyrene box and leave for 12 hours undisturbed. If it is winter I put a doona over the top of the box.  In fact I do that summer and winter. 
The idea is to provide a little cocoon where the soap does the work of heating itself but your little cocoon provides a little warm environment for it for 12 hours.


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## Goldy (Jul 10, 2021)

Thank you


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