# Thoughts on BTMS-50



## lpstephy85 (Sep 10, 2014)

I am reading up on liquid lotion making as right now I make anhydrous lotion sticks. I like them for their convenience factor but seem to always be a little on the greasy side. I am just wondering how would someone explain to a customer about BTMS-50 being skin safe (I would obviously use the INCI on the label) and is there anything out there that works just as well but more natural?


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## IrishLass (Sep 10, 2014)

I can't answer your question in regards to explaining the 'skin-safe' issue of BTMS to your customers, but as for using something less chemically, SwiftCraftyMonkey has some really good info on her blog site about dry-feeling oils as compared to greasy feeling oils, starting here: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2013/03/newbie-tuesday-testing-skin-feel-of-our.html

 Maybe it might turn out that all you might need to do is change the oils in your formula.


 IrishLass


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## MidwestSoaper (Sep 12, 2014)

In most of my lotions I use emulsifying wax and stearic acid that are plant based and less expensive than btms50.  BTMS50 is skin safe otherwise it would not be allowed in a leave on product.  

If you are uncomfortable using an ingredient and feel that you would have to justify its use, perhaps it would be best to not use it as there are many other emulsifiers readily available.


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## LBussy (Sep 12, 2014)

ANgela could you elaborate a bit please?  This is on my list of things to try (I actually want to do an aftershave "milk") and I have been looking at emulsifiers.


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## DeeAnna (Sep 12, 2014)

I recommend Susan's "lotion making thingie" as a fun, interesting intro: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1020026/introductiontolotionmakingthingie.pdf

The "all in one" emulsifier systems that many people use are BTMS, Conditioning Emulsifier, Polawax, and Emulsifying Wax (aka e-wax or e-wax NF). 

BTMS and Conditioning Emulsifier are very roughly similar, except BTMS is a brand name product from Incroquat and conditioning emulsifier is a generic version. BTMS comes in several flavors -- BTMS 50, BTMS 25, BTMS 225. Susan recommends BTMS 50, but it's hard for me to find it -- the stuff I have is basically the generic version of BTMS 25. These emulsifiers are cationic, meaning they have an electrical charge. This makes the product adsorbent, meaning it will "stick" to skin and hair longer than a non-ionic (not electrically charged) emulsifier.

Polawax, and Emulsifying Wax are also roughly similar products, except Polawax is a name-brand version from Croda and e-wax is the generic. These emulsifiers are non-ionic, meaning they do not have an electrical charge. 

The generics can vary somewhat by manufacturer, whereas the name-brand products are consistent. If you use generics (as I do) and get good results with one supplier's products, it might be good to stick with that supplier to get consistent results.

http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2009/10/emulsifying-systems-e-wax-polawax-and.html 
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2012/08/why-did-i-buy-that-rita-btms-225.html

You can create your own emulsifier system by using the HLB method, but I'm not really sure it's worth the trouble for most hobby lotion makers. More about HLB: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/p/hlb-system.html

In addition to an emulsifier system, many people also include thickeners in their lotions. Butters, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, etc. can all act as thickeners in a product. They work with an emulsifier system, but cannot replace the emulsifier. Non-butter products add thickness and texture without adding greasiness, so you can use these thickeners to make a lighter feeling, non-greasy lotion or cream if that is your goal.

http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2010/10/asidecetearyl-alcohol.html
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2009/07/better-crafting-through-chemistry-cetyl.html
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2009/07/better-crafting-through-chemistry.html


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## MidwestSoaper (Sep 12, 2014)

LBussy said:


> ANgela could you elaborate a bit please?  This is on my list of things to try (I actually want to do an aftershave "milk") and I have been looking at emulsifiers.



I see that we are neighbors.:smile:  I agree with checking out Susan's site... there is a wealth of information there.  Here is a link about aftershave light lotions http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/#uds-search-results  hth


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## LBussy (Sep 13, 2014)

Thanks DeAnna!

Angela there seems to be more than a few of us within a couple hundred miles for sure.  No need to worry, I won't be selling in this market.  I'm really here to make sure that post-apocalypse, I'll be a clean shaven dude among scruffy men.  That's my big plan.


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## MidwestSoaper (Sep 13, 2014)

No worries.  I think there are enough customers for us all.


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## LBussy (Sep 13, 2014)

MidwestSoaper said:


> No worries.  I think there are enough customers for us all.


Given some of the "odors" in WalMart, I agree!


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## cjguitar (Sep 16, 2014)

BTMS-50 is available at Lotioncrafter.com at a reasonable price. I use it and it works great, especially for conditioners, but lotions as well. I feel it is a little less greasy feeling than regular E-Wax. 
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/lotioncrafter-btms-50.html


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## Jeramian (Sep 17, 2014)

U can try using candelila wax and avocado oil. I make a body butter and it is extremely greasy. I substituted the beeswax for candelila and I swear it is much dryer but still very moisturizing


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## freedomgiver (Feb 26, 2020)

MidwestSoaper said:


> In most of my lotions I use emulsifying wax and stearic acid that are plant based and less expensive than btms50.  BTMS50 is skin safe otherwise it would not be allowed in a leave on product.
> 
> If you are uncomfortable using an ingredient and feel that you would have to justify its use, perhaps it would be best to not use it as there are many other emulsifiers readily available.


Wow that is directly out of Google.


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