# Beeswax in soap



## American Valkyrie (Nov 17, 2010)

A friend offered to sell me some wax from bees.  I've seen it mentioned here before... what are the benefits of putting beeswax in soap?  About how much do you use?  Does it give any honey scent, the way beeswax candles do?


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## Bean13 (Nov 17, 2010)

I put anywhere from .5 to 1 oz of grated beeswax in a 2 to 3 lb batch of soap.  Beeswax is suppose to help dry skin and it makes the bar of soap harder.  Have not noticed any smell from the wax in the soap as of yet but I don't put very much in at all.  If your looking for a honey scent you can put diluted honey in your soap, but I don't know how much.  Something else to look into...always learning and the best place to do it is here.


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## soapbuddy (Nov 17, 2010)

I use beeswax in every batch for a harder bar.


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## judymoody (Nov 18, 2010)

A small amount of beeswax in the proportions described above also is supposed to help to prevent ash as well as make a harder bar.  Make sure it's thoroughly melted and incorporated with your oils.  It's also used in lip balms and lotion bars if you want to go that route.  There's lots of helpful info in the beauty & body products section of this forum.  Fresh beeswax, yum!


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## loveit_latherit (Nov 18, 2010)

I agree with all the above! After all melted hit the oils with your stick blender before you put in your Lye solution (I even add my fragrance at this point too)


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## American Valkyrie (Nov 18, 2010)

Can I put it in the same pot and melt it with my hard fats?


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## soapbuddy (Nov 18, 2010)

American Valkyrie said:
			
		

> Can I put it in the same pot and melt it with my hard fats?


That's the best way to do it.


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## Bean13 (Nov 18, 2010)

Yes thats the way I do it.  I measure it, into the oil pot with the rest of the oils and start melting away.


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## anita (Nov 18, 2010)

I use 1.5% beeswax in my bars for a harder bar. There's no smell from it and I melt it with my hard oils.


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## American Valkyrie (Nov 18, 2010)

Thanks, everyone!  Now I'm wondering if I can use the drippings from the candles my friend made for me.  They're 100% beeswax, and they've already dripped down so I can't use them in the candle anymore.


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## MissMori (Nov 18, 2010)

Too much bee's wax will decrease lather.  I used to use 1% to 2%, but don't any longer.


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## carebear (Nov 18, 2010)

Bean13 said:
			
		

> Yes thats the way I do it.  I measure it, into the oil pot with the rest of the oils and start melting away.



I melt the BW in with the most stable oil in the formula, then add the other ones into that mix.  I generally start with the coconut oil or PKO and beeswax, then add in things like castor, palm oil, cocoa butter (to let it melt), and go from there.  Anything that I think is heat sensitive would go in last.  Sometimes I have to zap it once the liquid oils are added - to make sure the mix is clear.


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## Bean13 (Nov 18, 2010)

Carebear

I just measure it all in one pot at once.  Every oil I use gets measured in the same pot.  I zero it before each oil and measure away.  On the stove it goes and the oils most times get up to 170 F.  I let it cool to about 110 before adding to lye, depending on the temp of lye.  I don't sell my soap.  My family and friends are happy with it.  Is it too hot?

American

If your not selling the soap I would use the melted down beeswax from the candles.  But thats because I'm the queen of cheap.  Reuse, Re duce, Recycle.


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## carebear (Nov 18, 2010)

I think so, but I don't have any data on it.

Increased temps do increase the oxidation rate.


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## Stacey (Nov 19, 2010)

"Now I'm wondering if I can use the drippings from the candles my friend made for me. They're 100% beeswax, and they've already dripped down so I can't use them in the candle anymore."

I could be totally wrong here (certainly not an expert)...but if you have "drippings" from beeswax candles, they may not 100% beeswax.

We have 10 beehives and have made dipped, taper candles and one of the selling points of beeswax candles is the fact that they are dripless.  Unless of course you're talking about a container candle that the wick has burned down completely and you're using the leftovers. 

If your candles are from your beekeeping friend, then you're probably good to go.  But if you aren't 100% positive that they are 100% beeswax, then I don't know if I'd use the drippings.  IMHO.


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## MissMori (Nov 19, 2010)

Stacey said:
			
		

> We have 10 beehives...



Off topic... but color me green!  I once mentioned keeping bees to my husband, real casual like, and had an apoplectic fit.


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## soapopera (Nov 21, 2010)

May I know what temp you guys soap when using BW? Today I did a test batch with it and I noticed I made a big mistake. My lye was 34C and the liquid fats are 40C. I think my BW was around 50C to 60C (I didn't really check as I got fed up with it solidifying too fast. I mix everything together with the EO and stir and not long I started to see clumps solidifying floating about in the whole solution. I quickly zap it with the SB and before I knew it, it went to trace so fast before I could pour it into the mold. Also the texture after glopping it into the mold look kinda like a porridge texture, I believe ricing maybe?


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## MissMori (Nov 21, 2010)

When using beeswax, you have to soap a bit warmer.  I no longer use beeswax, but here's what I did:

Melt all oils and waxes together above melt point for whichever has highest melt point.  Stir well.  Let cool a bit.  You will start to notice a skin on the oils, but mix back in.  Let cool to about 110 to 120 degrees before adding lye solution that is about the same temperature.  Stir, stick blend, whisk, whichever you do.  I recommend using fo's you know will not accelerate.


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## soapbuddy (Nov 21, 2010)

I soap around 110 degrees since I use beeswax.


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## soapopera (Nov 21, 2010)

soapbuddy said:
			
		

> I soap around 110 degrees since I use beeswax.



The beeswax I purchase says the melting point is around 61-65C which is 142-149F. Won't yours starts to solidify at 110?

MissMori pointed out that a skin will form which is what happening to mine when I let it cool a bit. Thinking it was wrong I keep zapping it in the microwave to ensure a clear solution throughout.


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## MissMori (Nov 21, 2010)

As the mix cools, it does so from the outside in.  When you stir, you are stirring the cooler oils on top back into the warmer oils in the center.


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## soapbuddy (Nov 22, 2010)

soapopera said:
			
		

> soapbuddy said:
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It won't solidify at 110 degrees as the melting point of the whole mixture changes. I just can't soap any lower than that.


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## soapopera (Nov 22, 2010)

Thanks Soapbuddy and MissMori. This clears up a lot. Now I'm keeping my fingers cross and hoping the spoilt batch still can be used. Now it has some parts looking lumpy with ashy bits and some parts smooth. Will do pH test after 2 days.


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