# Adding mica to the oils before pouring the lye water?



## SunRiseArts (Apr 19, 2017)

On another thread I think someone mentioned this to me, but cannot find the posts ....  so if I am using only one color, is this ok?  That way it will probably mix better ...

I am making HP soap.


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## Kamahido (Apr 19, 2017)

I use that method exclusively, as if things accelerate out of control it is one less thing to worry about.


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## toxikon (Apr 19, 2017)

If you're doing only one colour then yes - that's definitely the way to go. You can make sure your colour is well-mixed before adding your lye.


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## Steve85569 (Apr 19, 2017)

I usually do mix colors in before adding lye.
Scents too. Just in case something starts to go too fast. The worst thing that's happened that way was having to keep stirring the color pots on a slow recipe to keep the mica in suspension.

Each to their own.


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## SunRiseArts (Apr 19, 2017)

Thank you all, very interesting.  Would not adding the FOs too change the consistency of the batter?  I would love to be able to do that, but I soap around 110 to 120. 

What defines me????  Mmmmmmm  I am still trying to find out with soap making.  I prefer MP and HP.  I specially love HP soaps.  When I do CP is only because I am playing with design.

I am an oil painter,  it took me several years to find my place.  So we shall see.

So maybe you all can chime in? I made two different batches. The first one (the top one of the picture) I forgot to add the mica to the oils :headbanging:, so added at trace, and then went through the HP process. It was supposed to be coral pink, and look like an ugly dark orange .... the second one I did remember and the color, and is exactly the color of the mica and I love it. Is an orange EO soap. Is the one in the bottom. Gold is one of the school colors for my son high school, and I was making a present for a teacher.

I do know some micas react weird. I have a green one that when I mix it in the batch turns brown, but after a day, goes back to green as the soap is drying. 

What you all think? 1st one main ingredient was lard, and the second one main ingredient was GV shortening. Never used GV before, but I really love how it all came out although it was slower to trace.


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## SunRiseArts (Apr 23, 2017)

Bump?


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## Steve85569 (Apr 23, 2017)

HP I would not add the FO until the very last minute and then beat it in well.

As for the behavior of the mica's that you are using some do react with lye. 

Looks like you *mostly* answered your question just looking at the two bars of soap.


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## Marie (Apr 23, 2017)

SunRiseArts! The soap you posted with the heart tree stamp. I just used mine for the first time, and it pulled the soap off from the bar! So sad. Do you do something to keep the stamp from sticking? Hoping to use the stamp. So pretty! 
And, I think both your soaps look quite delicious.


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## SunRiseArts (Apr 24, 2017)

Marie said:


> SunRiseArts! The soap you posted with the heart tree stamp. I just used mine for the first time, and it pulled the soap off from the bar! So sad. Do you do something to keep the stamp from sticking? Hoping to use the stamp. So pretty!
> And, I think both your soaps look quite delicious.


 

Maybe you stamped it too soon?  You need to let the bar harden a couple of days before stamping.  Some people wait a lot longer and use a maillot, but I find that waiting a couple of days after cutting does the trick. 

Hope that helps!


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## mommycarlson (Apr 24, 2017)

Marie, when I use my acrylic stamp on my soap I use a sheet of Saran wrap and lay that on top of the soap, then use the mallet to stamp the soap, that way the soap doesn't get all up in the stamp.


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## Marie (May 11, 2017)

SunRiseArts said:


> Maybe you stamped it too soon?  You need to let the bar harden a couple of days before stamping.  Some people wait a lot longer and use a maillot, but I find that waiting a couple of days after cutting does the trick.
> 
> Hope that helps!


Thanks so much SunRiseArts. I will try that. I had thought "the softer the soap the better", so did it the first and second day. I ruined several soaps this way.


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## Marie (May 11, 2017)

mommycarlson said:


> Marie, when I use my acrylic stamp on my soap I use a sheet of Saran wrap and lay that on top of the soap, then use the mallet to stamp the soap, that way the soap doesn't get all up in the stamp.


mommycarlson, wouldn't finer details get totally lost this way? I would love to see pics of your results. Thanks so much for responding.


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## navigator9 (May 11, 2017)

Marie said:


> mommycarlson, wouldn't finer details get totally lost this way? I would love to see pics of your results. Thanks so much for responding.



I'm not mommycarlson, but no, the saran actually helps retain details because the soap doesn't get stuck on the stamp and get pulled off, ruining the impression.


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## mommycarlson (May 15, 2017)

Marie said:


> mommycarlson, wouldn't finer details get totally lost this way? I would love to see pics of your results. Thanks so much for responding.



Navigator, thanks for answering    I was out of town for the weekend.
Marie, Navigator is correct, I like my soap stamped with saran wrap between the stamp and the soap because nothing sticks in the stamp.  Before I did the saran wrap, I was constantly cleaning my stamp after every bar of soap or every couple if I was lucky.  Now I cut my soap, bevel the edges, stamp it using the saran wrap and put it on the curing rack, I don't have to wait, I can stamp it immediately after cutting. I also lay out all 10 bars, cover them with the saran wrap and stamp the whole batch. Totally saves time and keeps me from having to put my soap on the curing rack, taking a bar off, stamping it to see if it's cured enough to handle the stamp, putting it back, you get the the drift


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## madison (May 15, 2017)

I use the plastic wrap as well, it makes it very easy. I still love to have mica mixture of few colors on my soap but I didn't figure out yet  how to do it without messing up my bars.


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