# Fresh Goat Milk in Melt & Pour?



## ecogirlskinandspa

Hello.

I was wondering if anyone had any experience adding fresh goat's milk to a melt & pour base.  I once saw a video where a woman demonstrated melting a white M&P glycerine base and added fresh goats milk when it was melted in addition to other oils and butters, vitamin E and grapefruit seed extract. She let it cure for several weeks and then rebatched it.  However, most everthing I've read says you can't add fresh milk to melt & pour.... does anyone know how to do this and what amounts to use...? I know about goat's milk M&P bases you can buy but I'd really like to do it this way if possible.

Thanks so much!


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## lisamaliga

You can buy the goat milk M&P soap base or you can add powdered goat's milk to it. If using powdered goat's milk, you can mix it in a separate bowl  with a small amount of water to form a slurry. [Generally 1/2 Tablespoon GM powder with about the same amount of water will work per pound.]

If you're concerned about mixing it with water, you can sprinkle the powder, making sure there are no lumps, in your pot about halfway through the melting process. 

Adding fresh goat's milk, cow's milk, yogurt, etc. isn't advisable in M&P as it can spoil. M&P already contains a fairly high percentage of water.

Goat's milk soap has a rich lather & it's a great soap to have in your soapdish!


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## Genny

I've heard of some people adding fresh Goats Milk to mp, but I've never tried it.  I do add powdered goats milk.  I usually add it to a small amount of melted base first and get it totally mixed in with that first.  I add that to my other melted base and stir it slowly.  It seems to incorporate better that way.

  Although, if you're adding oils to your base, you can first mix the powdered milk in there and then add it to your melted base.

Are you sure it was mp?  Mp doesn't need to cure, that's why I was asking.


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## Catmehndi

I would think that the only way to use the milk in its liquid form is to add no more than a Tbsp per pound OR to heat until some of the water has evaporated so more milk can be added but it would be very hard to calculate the amount of water lost. I also wonder about curdling....?


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## ecogirlskinandspa

Thanks so much for your replys.  The youtube video link I'm referring to is: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RjehTbgwXQ"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RjehTbgwXQ[/ame] - if you're interested in watching.  I was confused because as most of you have mentioned - and all the research I've done - it is not a good idea to add liquid goats milk to m&p (for the various reasons) - but that is exactly what she is doing.  She also adds palm oil & shea butter(s) - which I've also read are not good b/c they decrease lather, etc. Of course she doesn't give out her recipe "amounts" but she is definitely adding all these to a white, glycerin m&p base.....?  Trying to figure out if she is not disclosing something that might be the secret to all this....??

Thanks again!

Amy


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## lisamaliga

Amy,
Thanks for the video.

She's taking glycerin melt & pour base and adding to it. [She also touches the soap with her bare hands while cutting it up and putting it in the pot!]
The various butters and oils she adds will make the lather rich & creamy, but only if she adds them in small amounts. But adding fresh goat's milk to a melt & pour base isn't recommended due to the high water content the soapbase already contains.


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## soapbuddy

MP is not rebatched. You can just remelt it. There is no need for cure either. Vit E and grapefruit seed extract are anti-oxidants, not preservatives, so not sure how that would help. I would not use fresh goat's milk. I would use powder, or better yet, just buy goat's milk MP base.


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## Genny

I wonder why she lets them "cure" for such a long time before adding her eo's. I think she said 8 weeks?  Has anyone ever done that?  I let mine dry for a week but that's after it's completely finished.
I did notice the SPF claim she made on the shea butter she was adding, too.

I wonder where she lives, I would never be able to get $9 for a 3-4 oz bar of heart shaped soap.


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## soapbuddy

Genny said:
			
		

> I wonder why she lets them "cure" for such a long time before adding her eo's. I think she said 8 weeks?  Has anyone ever done that?  I let mine dry for a week but that's after it's completely finished.
> I did notice the SPF claim she made on the shea butter she was adding, too.
> 
> I wonder where she lives, I would never be able to get $9 for a 3-4 oz bar of heart shaped soap.


6 to 8 weeks  of cure time is normally done with CP soap.


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## Genny

I wonder if she was just misinformed about the curing thing or if since she's adding all the oils, maybe it dries it out more waiting that long?


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## soapbuddy

Genny said:
			
		

> I wonder if she was just misinformed about the curing thing or if since she's adding all the oils, maybe it dries it out more waiting that long?


Adding all those oils will make it lather less.


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## Genny

soapbuddy said:
			
		

> Adding all those oils will make it lather less.



Yep, I know it would lather less.  I mean maybe since she adds all those oils, then possibly the soap is oily to the touch.  So maybe she's just drying it out for that long to get rid of the oil on the surface.  Would be a wasteful way to do it though.
Or maybe for some strange reason she just likes them to sit that long and decides to call it curing.


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## soapbuddy

Genny said:
			
		

> soapbuddy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding all those oils will make it lather less.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, I know it would lather less.  I mean maybe since she adds all those oils, then possibly the soap is oily to the touch.  So maybe she's just drying it out for that long to get rid of the oil on the surface.  Would be a wasteful way to do it though.
> Or maybe for some strange reason she just likes them to sit that long and decides to call it curing.
Click to expand...

Oil would not evaporate from soap, but water will. If anything, if there is humidity and the MP soap isn't wrapped it will weep and get sticky.


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## Genny

soapbuddy said:
			
		

> Oil would not evaporate from soap, but water will. If anything, if there is humidity and the MP soap isn't wrapped it will weep and get sticky.



I'm going to have to say I was way too tired I think when watching that video.  I have no idea why I thought the oil would evaporate LOL
I was just so intent on figuring out why someone would do something so different like that.


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## lisamaliga

I noticed that she did have that 1 finished block of M&P soap wrapped in plastic wrap.


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## ecogirlskinandspa

I know -- I haven't made much soap (yet) but I've sure exhausted the heck out of researching all the different techniques and terminology and what she's doing seemed so strange to me -- I was just wanting to find out if I missed something...

Thanks again for all your input!


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## DoraTina

Maybe the reason why she let it cure for 8 weeks is because she add goat's milk.


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## Sheila Pullar

What is the best soap base to use! Goats milk or Claranol SLSF? I want to order some base but not sure which to choose.


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## Sheila Pullar

Nobody ever replies to me x


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## Hazel

Probably no one saw your question on this topic because it's over 3 years old and most of the people subscribed for reply notification haven't been on the forum for over a year. I think only 2 have been on recently and it's possible they're not getting notified for a reply since the topic is from April 2011. They're both helpful and I think either one would have answered your question if they had seen it.

I've never heard of Claranol so I had to google. It looks like it's a shampoo base. Is that what you want? I'd go with a goat milk base if you want soap for the skin.


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## Sheila Pullar

Thank you Hazel! Claranol is a soap base opaque SLS free.  I purchased it from H. Foster supplies based in England. X


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## Hazel

You're welcome! 

I'm not familiar with most of the suppliers in the UK. I have heard good things about Gracefruit. I don't know if you need it but here's a link to UK suppliers. http://annelwatson.com/soapmaking/soapmaking_materials_suppliers.html#UnitedKingdom

However, I don't know how current it is for these suppliers.


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## Sheila Pullar

Thank you that's a great help x


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