# Salty Soap



## KiwiMoose (Nov 27, 2018)

Hi All,

I have been reading up on some recipes for soap with Himalayan salt in them, and I have come across two quite conflicting recipes.

One says to load up on CO to create extra bubbles, as the salt inhibits bubbles (this uses a 15% SF to offset the high CO content)

The other seems like a fairly  normal fatty acid profile, but just adds the salt to the recipe.  This one says that the salt acts as a softening agent and doesn't mention at all that it inhibits bubbles.

What are your experiences with using this salt?

I want to attempt a Pink Grapefruit and Salt Soap this weekend - so any advice gratefully received.


----------



## amd (Nov 27, 2018)

Can you link the two conflicting sources?

Without seeing the sources, I suspect the difference is when the salt is added to the soap. In the first, with the higher CO and SF the salt is likely added after the batter has been emulsified or come to trace. This leaves the salt intact, and is typically called a salt bar. The second recipe may be one that has salt dissolved into the water before combining with lye. The salt remains dissolved in the soap, and is typically referred to as soleseife or brine soap.

The difference between the two, besides when the salt is added is the amount of salt used. A salt bar will use 30-100% of the oil weight in salt. A soleseife (brine soap) will only be able to use up to 27% of the water weight. There's a bit more to the soleseife salt calculation than just that, but not knowing what type of soap you really want to make, I don't want to overwhelm you.


----------



## KiwiMoose (Nov 27, 2018)

Both recipes called for the salt to be added after trace, and to move quickly as it will accelerate the batter. Both seem to have between 50 -100% of the oil weight in salt.

https://wellnessmama.com/91703/sea-salt-soap/

https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-...ocess-soap/pretty-in-pink-salty-cold-process/


----------



## cmzaha (Nov 27, 2018)

Do not use Himalayan salt in a salt bar such as you are talking about. If you are adding salt after trace you will need at least 75% CO in order to get any lather. Himalayan, Grey Sea Salt and a few others are much to abrasive to add to soap. You will be better off with non-iodized table salt, which makes a very nice salt bar. As for Sea Salt it is a bit of a trial and error, I have a fine sea salt that I used in 2 batches which turned out very prickly, so I could not sell them. I prefer this salt in fine grind  https://www.sfsalt.com/inc/sdetail/calspa-natural---5lb-bag/516/519#/ which has never turned out prickly. Do not waste money on their Black Lava Hawaiian Salt it is Pacific Sea Salt infused with Activated Charcoal

ETA never use Dead Sea Salt in Soap


----------



## DeeAnna (Nov 27, 2018)

_"...This one says that the salt acts as a softening agent..."_

Salt (sodium chloride) doesn't soften water. It just plain can't. Not sure where this myth comes from, but I've seen a number of internet bloggers make this claim. It's a nice idea, except it doesn't work. 

Yes, salt is used in resin-based water softener system to soften water, but that's a totally different situation. Even in a water softener, the salt is still not directly used for softening water. It's the way the resin works that does the softening.


----------



## amd (Nov 27, 2018)

I used extra fine pink himalayan salt from the company Carolyn links above. It was definitely scratchier than the canning & pickling salt I usually use and left some welts on my husband (he uses soap directly on his skin). If you're using a shower poof, you shouldn't have anything to worry about. If you are making for other people, I would not recommend using even the extra fine salt.

Regarding your sources: I tend to steer clear of Soap Queen recipes - I think she gives a lot of bad advice, but I might be in a minority here. I prefer Lovin' Soap, here's the post on salt bars: https://www.lovinsoap.com/2015/09/how-to-formulate-soap-salt-bars/
Here is the recipe that I make for my husband, it's his favorite soap and he threatens to divorce me when he runs out of soap...
80% Coconut Oil
20% Avocado Oil
50/50 Aloe Vera Juice and Coconut Milk
35% salt (I think... I'm away from my soap notes at the moment, it could be 30% or 40%...) I like to use the canning & pickling salt from the grocery store.
I also add 1 TBSP PPO kaolin clay, and 1g PPO silk peptides to my soaps, but it's not necessary.


----------



## steffamarie (Nov 27, 2018)

I made a batch with Himalayan pink salt, it's a lovely bar but it is scratchy, as Carolyn and Sherry have mentioned. It's nice as a hand soap and would be fine to use with a shower pouf but much too poky for anything but the toughest skin. I really enjoyed the batch I made with plain old table salt, but I have pickling salt that I use now. I go for 50% salt by weight. 

If memory serves, Carolyn spoke about powdered salt at one point - I haven't delved further but that's something I'd like to try someday. Ideally that would reduce the already mild exfoliation down to the lowest possible level in a non-Soleseife salt soap. 

Salt WILL accelerate your batter, so I color and scent mine before adding the salt. That's my final step before pouring, and I like to use individual molds as the soap hardens so rapidly and so much that you'd really have to time it right in order to be able to cut a loaf up easily without causing it to crumble. A soapmaking coworker of mine had this happen, and she ended up with some lovely "salt crumbles" but not the bars she was after. I just use silicone cupcake molds.


----------



## Obsidian (Nov 27, 2018)

I make a lot of salt bars. I use 80% coconut, 20% olive or some other high oleic oil with 35%-50% salt and 20% SF. A salt soap low in coconut just isn't going to lather like it should.
I use canning salt or plain sea salt. Using some fancy expensive salt does nothing to your soap besides drive up the price.

I second the use of individual molds, makes it so much easier. It is possible to use a loaf mold and cut the bars but you have to babysit your soap so you can cut it as soon as its firmed up. Usually its within 1-3 hours. The loaf will still be hot and caustic. Gloves must be worn and you must be gentle, the soap is super easy to smoosh if squeezed.

I also don't care for soapqueens recipes or tutorials, there are better ones out there.


----------



## KiwiMoose (Nov 27, 2018)

So you reckon even this one will be to scratchy?https://mrsrogers.co.nz/wp-content/...GERS-BAGS-HIMALAYAN-PINK-SALT-FINE-400G-1.jpg


----------



## steffamarie (Nov 27, 2018)

That's the grade I used (different brand, but 'fine') and yes it is too scratchy. I use that salt for cooking now.


----------



## cmzaha (Nov 27, 2018)

steffamarie said:


> I made a batch with Himalayan pink salt, it's a lovely bar but it is scratchy, as Carolyn and Sherry have mentioned. It's nice as a hand soap and would be fine to use with a shower pouf but much too poky for anything but the toughest skin. I really enjoyed the batch I made with plain old table salt, but I have pickling salt that I use now. I go for 50% salt by weight.
> 
> If memory serves, Carolyn spoke about powdered salt at one point - I haven't delved further but that's something I'd like to try someday. Ideally that would reduce the already mild exfoliation down to the lowest possible level in a non-Soleseife salt soap.
> 
> Salt WILL accelerate your batter, so I color and scent mine before adding the salt. That's my final step before pouring, and I like to use individual molds as the soap hardens so rapidly and so much that you'd really have to time it right in order to be able to cut a loaf up easily without causing it to crumble. A soapmaking coworker of mine had this happen, and she ended up with some lovely "salt crumbles" but not the bars she was after. I just use silicone cupcake molds.


Redhead is actually the member that has made soap with powdered salt. I have mentioned many times to Not grind salt, because it sharpens the shards even if it looks powdered. Redhead purchased powdered salt and it made a very smooth, almost river rock smooth, salt bar. Salt bars need to be cut while actually still warm depending on the percentage of salt used. I use 100% salt in mine, which I have been making for at least 7 yrs, and I have to cut them within 45 minutes.

ETA: Any Himalayan salt is going to be to scratchy. The only soap I ever had that was bad was a recipe from Lovin Soap and I could not even fix the stupid batch. Soap Queen is a supplier, her recipes are based around selling her supplies and they are not great recipes. I tried her oil free lotion recipe and it goes moldy. I like 85% CO, 10% Castor and 5% SunflowerHO or Canola HO in salt bars.


----------



## KiwiMoose (Nov 27, 2018)

How about if I make a gardeners soap out of it?  The scratchiness might be quite good for cleaning grubby hands?


----------



## steffamarie (Nov 27, 2018)

KiwiMoose said:


> How about if I make a gardeners soap out of it?  The scratchiness might be quite good for cleaning grubby hands?


I would say something like use coffee grounds or walnut shell powder would probably work better. I would be hesitant for anyone but me to use my pink salt bars just because if someone got hurt I would feel really awful. The salt is SHARP rather than just exfoliating/scrubby. I can't use a salt bar in the shower if I shave my legs because the salt gets into the microabrasions and nicks from the razor and BURNS. I wouldn't want to risk any family or friends or customers getting the same kind of thing. Stick to fine sea salt, regular table salt, or pickling salt. The pink is so pretty and tempting, but I won't be making another batch with it.


----------



## KiwiMoose (Nov 27, 2018)

Fine sea salt it is then.  So does this salt under a microscope have smooth edges, and the Himalayan have sharp?  Is that the difference?  I've got this idea that Grapefruit and salt would be nice.  And if I use my Pink Grapefruit EO, with a touch of pink colour I think they will still be nice bars.


----------



## steffamarie (Nov 27, 2018)

KiwiMoose said:


> Fine sea salt it is then.  So does this salt under a microscope have smooth edges, and the Himalayan have sharp?  Is that the difference?  I've got this idea that Grapefruit and salt would be nice.  And if I use my Pink Grapefruit EO, with a touch of pink colour I think they will still be nice bars.


I couldn't even begin to tell you what they're like under a microscope. I only know from experience. I think a grapefruit salt bar would be lovely, and the salt will not really impact the color too much. It's translucent enough that it will show a pink soap quite nicely. When I made my pink salt bars, I used Raspberry Red from Nurture Soap with some TD to make it more pastel.


----------



## KiwiMoose (Nov 27, 2018)

amd said:


> I used extra fine pink himalayan salt from the company Carolyn links above. It was definitely scratchier than the canning & pickling salt I usually use and left some welts on my husband (he uses soap directly on his skin). If you're using a shower poof, you shouldn't have anything to worry about. If you are making for other people, I would not recommend using even the extra fine salt.
> 
> Regarding your sources: I tend to steer clear of Soap Queen recipes - I think she gives a lot of bad advice, but I might be in a minority here. I prefer Lovin' Soap, here's the post on salt bars: https://www.lovinsoap.com/2015/09/how-to-formulate-soap-salt-bars/
> 
> Thanks for the link. I found this one recipe that I like that I could adapt: https://www.lovinsoap.com/2018/07/unicorn-horn-salt-bars-cold-process-soap-sea-salt-with-video/


----------



## cmzaha (Nov 27, 2018)

Salt bars really do not last longer than non salt soap, because of the high CO which is very soluble. The solubility of CO soap is why it will lather in salt water and is called "Sailors Soap."  I would lower the Shea to 5% and add in 5% Castor Oil. Butters will deter lather in salt bars


----------



## SaltedFig (Nov 27, 2018)

Some points for your salt bar making:
30%-40% salt by weight of oils is a nice amount to work with - it gives a good bit of salt, but isn't too difficult to work (still cut it while it's warm, if you are doing bars).

At 50% by weight of oil, you have roughly 3-4 minutes from adding the salt to the batter (this will vary according to your recipe and conditions) to move the batter around for pour and swirl techniques, so be prepared (it goes quick), but know that you can do it.

Cut the soap as soon as the soap is cool enough that you can touch it (or wear gloves, you can cut sooner then ).
Use a thin blade to cut if you are using a knife - a thicker blade will shatter the soap - it's too brittle to flex around the wedge shape of a thicker knife blade.

Using individual molds is a simple solution for salt bars.

Standard salt bars usually have a high percentage of coconut or babassu (usually coconut) as these oils will create a soap that will bubble in salty water, where most others won't.
(*edited to add: see below posts why not to use PKO)

A simple recipe is 85% coconut, 12% soft oil, 3% castor oil, 30% lye concentration, 15%SF and 30% salt by weight of oils.

When you make your soap batter, get the trace to be thick enough to "coat" the back of your spoon (if the batter is thin it will run off and you will see the spoon material - coating means you see the batter instead of the spoon or spatula) - you want it to have a bit of texture to your batter before you add your salt, so the salt doesn't sink to the bottom of your mold when you pour it. The bigger the grains of salt, the more they will sink to the bottom if the batter is thinner. All sizes of salt can be suspended in a thicker batter, but it's a juggling act, because you won't have much time with coconut based soap, even before you add salt.

Some extra Crystal info:
Himalayan salt is very sharp and stays that way in soap. Medium to large crystals can draw multiple blood lines (not the breeding kind ) if used directly on the skin. Some people like the harsh scratchiness of the smaller crystals, but you'd want to be really careful - I have done some experiments and been able to trigger crystal re-growth in soap, so I choose to avoid it altogether in soaps made for others.

These sites sell photo's, and you can have a peek at the different crystal structure for himalayan salt (pyramid with sharp points) and table salt (cubes, that can round off to sphere's in the right conditions). The structure of Himalayan salt is naturally pointed, so the larger the crystal, the bigger the point and the deeper the cutting ability. The angle of the points of table salt are naturally less acute.


----------



## Alfa_Lazcares (Nov 27, 2018)

If i were you i would go with @amd recipe, i made it and i love it, and that is the one i keep making (thank you!).


----------



## Obsidian (Nov 27, 2018)

The pink color in Himalayan salt is from minerals and some clay, this is non soluble and what makes the salt scratchy.  If you really want to use himalayan in soap, make a brine and filter out any impurities.

I tried grinding course once, I sliced my chest open the first time I used it, never again. It was a stupid thing to do just to save a couple bucks.


----------



## steffamarie (Nov 27, 2018)

I did try a bar with about 35% PKO and it is VERY hard but doesn't lather much even after a month or so. Perhaps a lower percentage would have helped, but I'm not entirely sure.


----------



## Obsidian (Nov 27, 2018)

Palm kernel doesn't make a good salt bar. I tried it at 100% once, absolutely no lather. Butters, lard and palm aren't that great either, they all can reduce lather. coconut and soft oils are all you need.


----------



## cmzaha (Nov 27, 2018)

^^^yep I totally agree with Obsidian


----------



## SaltedFig (Nov 27, 2018)

Obsidian said:


> Palm kernel doesn't make a good salt bar. I tried it at 100% once, absolutely no lather.



It sounds like PKO doesn't make much of a coconut substitute - thanks 

@KiwiMoose If you use coconut milk or aloe gel, it will add to the heat and saponification will be quicker again (it can trim another 30 seconds or so off the time, depending on your recipe and conditions), but these additives do go very nicely with salt bars.

(My current avatar is a slab cast, knife-cut, coconut water salt bar.)


----------



## Misschief (Nov 27, 2018)

Obsidian said:


> I make a lot of salt bars. I use 80% coconut, 20% olive or some other high oleic oil with 35%-50% salt and 20% SF. A salt soap low in coconut just isn't going to lather like it should.
> I use canning salt or plain sea salt. Using some fancy expensive salt does nothing to your soap besides drive up the price.
> 
> I second the use of individual molds, makes it so much easier. It is possible to use a loaf mold and cut the bars but you have to babysit your soap so you can cut it as soon as its firmed up. Usually its within 1-3 hours. The loaf will still be hot and caustic. Gloves must be worn and you must be gentle, the soap is super easy to smoosh if squeezed.
> ...



I use Obsidian's recipe and LOVE it! It's my favourite soap (I use it daily) and I make an entire batch for my daughter for her birthday every year. It's her fave soap, too. I only make it in cavity molds; I don't want to fight with it, or babysit it.  I use fine sea salt that I purchase at my local bulk store. It isn't scratchy at all and the lather is creamy enough that you can shave with it.


----------



## KiwiMoose (Nov 27, 2018)

Woot! Look what I found. Only $2:79 (that’s about $1:50 US)


----------



## shunt2011 (Nov 28, 2018)

My recipe is the same as amd's. I use coconut milk in mine.   It's awesome, and salt bars are one of my favorites.  I use fine sea salt but have found the scratchy factor can vary from purchase to purchase.  I use a poof so it doesn't really matter.


----------



## Clarice (Feb 4, 2019)

Obsidian said:


> Palm kernel doesn't make a good salt bar. I tried it at 100% once, absolutely no lather. Butters, lard and palm aren't that great either, they all can reduce lather. coconut and soft oils are all you need.



Hello Obsidian (love the name!!!!!)

Misschief mentioned using your Solseife recipe - are you still sharing that?  

also, may I ask a few questions:

is Himalyan salt OK to use in making a brine?

Misschief quoted you saying:   *I make a lot of salt bars. I use 80% coconut, 20% olive or some other high oleic oil with 35%-50% salt and 20% SF.
*
I don't completely understand the 35 - 50% salt, as I thought the maximum salinity for brine was about 25%?

Thank you so much for your time!  All the best, Clarice


----------



## Misschief (Feb 4, 2019)

Clarice said:


> Hello Obsidian (love the name!!!!!)
> 
> Misschief mentioned using your Solseife recipe - are you still sharing that?
> 
> ...


This isn't a brine soap, or soleseife, Clarice. This is a salt bar. You make the base as usual, as in Obsidian's recipe. Once your batter has reached trace, then, you add 35-50% of the oil weight in sea salt. The salt, not the salt mixed in water.


----------



## Clarice (Feb 4, 2019)

Thank  you!

to make sure i am understanding:

Soleseife is the term for the soap method that uses salt in the lye water (?up to a maximum ~25% saturation?

Salt Bar is the term for adding salt to your CP soap mixture after trace

Is that correct?

Thank you so much!


----------



## Misschief (Feb 4, 2019)

Clarice said:


> Thank  you!
> 
> to make sure i am understanding:
> 
> ...


Correct!


----------



## Clarice (Feb 4, 2019)

HOT DAWG!  

Penny Dropped!


----------



## cmzaha (Feb 4, 2019)

My go to salt bar is 85% CO, 8% Castor and 7% soft oil. I make mine with salt brine and 100% salt. I have been making salt bars since I first started soaping and love them.

Always use x-fine - fine salt and do not use Grey Sea Salt or Himalayan, those 2 salts are way to scratchy and never use coarser than fine grade. Do Not try to grind salt because you do nothing but sharpen the salt in shards that can cause bad lacerations. Also do not waste money on Black Hawaiian Sea Salt, it is Pacific Sea Salt that has been treated with charcoal. They need to be aged for a min of 6 months if using 100% salt, and I would bet the same applies if using less salt, can't say, since I have ever used less salt. Also do not use Dead Sea Salt or Epsom salt in salt bars

I also use my salt bars with a bath pouf, plus I have 2 very prickly batches that I will not use directly on my skin since it feels like little needles. Does not seem to bother my hubby. I used a bulk sea salt that I had purchased in the past but the last 5 lbs I purchased the salt was really sharp. So back to purchasing  from here, darn it looks like they no longer have x-fine
https://www.sfsalt.com/inc/sdetail/calspa-natural---25lb-bulk-bag/516/521#/

ETA: Sorry, I repeated some of the information I had in another post on pg 1. Guess I should have checked the previous posts.


----------



## Meena (Feb 4, 2019)

DeeAnna said:


> _"...This one says that the salt acts as a softening agent..."_
> 
> Salt (sodium chloride) doesn't soften water. It just plain can't. Not sure where this myth comes from, but I've seen a number of internet bloggers make this claim. It's a nice idea, except it doesn't work.
> 
> Yes, salt is used in resin-based water softener system to soften water, but that's a totally different situation. Even in a water softener, the salt is still not directly used for softening water. It's the way the resin works that does the softening.



Must be psychological, then -- salt always feel softening to me.


----------



## atiz (Feb 4, 2019)

Meena said:


> Must be psychological, then -- salt always feel softening to me.


Well, it must do something.... I just tried my salt bar this morning in the shower (not nearly cured yet, a baby of 3 weeks), which is 100% CO that otherwise my skin would not tolerate well at all, and it felt great.


----------



## Meena (Feb 4, 2019)

amd said:


> Regarding your sources: I tend to steer clear of Soap Queen recipes - I think she gives a lot of bad advice, but I might be in a minority here. I prefer Lovin' Soap, here's the post on salt bars: https://www.lovinsoap.com/2015/09/how-to-formulate-soap-salt-bars/
> .



Geez, even lovinsoap is handing out bad info, though:

"Size doesn’t really matter. I prefer fine grain,* but you can use up to large grain. It all melts with the warm water* so isn’t that scratchy or exfoliating. (*HUH??*)

For varied color, *you can use pink salt.* I love this pink sea salt from Bramble Berry."  (Link takes you to *Pink Sea Salt, Coarse)*

https://www.lovinsoap.com/2015/09/how-to-formulate-soap-salt-bars/


----------



## Meena (Feb 4, 2019)

atiz said:


> Well, it must do something.... I just tried my salt bar this morning in the shower (not nearly cured yet, a baby of 3 weeks), which is 100% CO that otherwise my skin would not tolerate well at all, and it felt great.



New AVI!!!  Gorgeous!  Love your pup, too!!


----------



## atiz (Feb 4, 2019)

Meena said:


> New AVI!!!  Gorgeous!  Love your pup, too!!


 She was my parents', the pic was taken about 10 yrs ago... just thought of it today somehow. She really was a great dog.

As for the pink salt: yeah, I would not try it, although definitely heard a couple of people who have and had no problems with it. (I just used table salt and it seems to be working fine so far.)


----------



## cmzaha (Feb 4, 2019)

Meena said:


> Geez, even lovinsoap is handing out bad info, though:
> 
> "Size doesn’t really matter. I prefer fine grain,* but you can use up to large grain. It all melts with the warm water* so isn’t that scratchy or exfoliating. (*HUH??*)
> 
> ...


It is not good to use coarse salt even for decoration. Some will not realize to take it off the bar and can severaly lacerate themselves. Size of salt grain does matter, it does not dissolve while you are using the bar. Lovinsoap has always had some bad info and the only bad bar I ever made was several years ago and one of her recipes. While pink salt is nice for color even fine Himalayan Salt can be prickly and scratchy. Non iodized table salt works great and many times I mix it with Pacific Sea Salt


----------



## Meena (Feb 4, 2019)

atiz said:


> She was my parents', the pic was taken about 10 yrs ago... just thought of it today somehow. She really was a great dog.
> 
> As for the pink salt: yeah, I would not try it, although definitely heard a couple of people who have and had no problems with it. (I just used table salt and it seems to be working fine so far.)



Awww, so sorry!  She looks like she was a great dog.


----------



## DeeAnna (Feb 4, 2019)

DeeAnna said:


> _..._Salt (sodium chloride) doesn't soften water. ... Yes, salt is used in resin-based water softener system to soften water, but that's a totally different situation. Even in a water softener, the salt is still not directly used for softening water. It's the way the resin works that does the softening.





Meena said:


> Must be psychological, then -- salt always feel softening to me.





atiz said:


> Well, it must do something.... I just tried my salt bar this morning ... and it felt great.



I think you're taking my words out of context. I'm _not _saying salt doesn't feel good on the skin. It does feel good. But salt doesn't soften water. Soften as in the sense of removing hard water minerals like a home water softener does. That's all I was trying to say.


----------



## lenarenee (Feb 4, 2019)

Right - salt is used to replace the minerals that do make water hard. But it's the removal of the other minerals that does the softening.


----------



## atiz (Feb 4, 2019)

DeeAnna said:


> I think you're taking my words out of context. I'm _not _saying salt doesn't feel good on the skin. It does feel good. But salt doesn't soften water. Soften as in the sense of removing hard water minerals like a home water softener does. That's all I was trying to say.


Sorry @DeeAnna, I wasn't really responding to you -- just commenting on Meena's response. Salt obviously does not take away minerals from water, nevertheless it can feel soft for some reason I have not researched.


----------



## Dawni (Feb 5, 2019)

Meena said:


> Geez, even lovinsoap is handing out bad info, though:
> 
> "Size doesn’t really matter. I prefer fine grain,* but you can use up to large grain. It all melts with the warm water* so isn’t that scratchy or exfoliating. (*HUH??*)
> 
> ...


The coarse salts might work in a brine soap, yes?

I've used Himalayan pink salt a few times because that's what I had and I didn't notice any scratchiness in my soleseife. But then I have very thick skin 

I have yet to try making a salt bar though, because I've not had the chance to buy very fine grain salt. We use small rock salts in our cooking.


----------



## Clarice (Feb 5, 2019)

Made my first Soleseife bars last night. Boiled Himalayan pink salt to super saturation and then filtered it before adding lye. Used room temp method and was guided by directions found on skinchakra.com.eu 

Poured into individual molds and will unmold tonight. Pretty, creamy look in pour, so fingers crossed. 

I get little bumps on my back sometimes and I have found this type of soap helps clear them up

Sooooooo glad to have learned on this site the difference between soleseife and salt bars. I had previously made salt bars and the result was.......garbage disposal freshener.


----------



## cmzaha (Feb 5, 2019)

Dawni said:


> The coarse salts might work in a brine soap, yes?
> 
> I've used Himalayan pink salt a few times because that's what I had and I didn't notice any scratchiness in my soleseife. But then I have very thick skin
> 
> I have yet to try making a salt bar though, because I've not had the chance to buy very fine grain salt. We use small rock salts in our cooking.


Coarse salt will work in a brine, because you are dissolving the salt. I have also used Himalayan back when I first starting making salt bars and all went well until I got a batch of the salt that was very scratchy even in fine. I save the Himalayan for making salt brine which I also use in my salt bars. Costco sells a Himalayan Pink that is very scratchy and seem to include a lot of clay or something


----------



## amd (Feb 5, 2019)

Meena said:


> "Size doesn’t really matter. I prefer fine grain,* but you can use up to large grain. It all melts with the warm water* so isn’t that scratchy or exfoliating. (*HUH??*)



It does depend on how you use the soap. I've used extra fine pink himalayan salt in a salt bar. It left welts (not bloody scratches, but you could see where the salt had dug into the skin) on my husband. If he remembers to use a loofah with it, it does act just as the lovin' soap post says - the salt dissolves and isn't scratchy when used.

I don't think there is a "perfect" source for soap info (other than here, ahem) where all things are considered. When it comes to soapmaking there is so.dang.much. that comes into play during the making of it and even during the using of it.


----------



## Obsidian (Feb 5, 2019)

I'm a cheapo when it comes to salt. I just use canning salt, 3 lbs for 3 or 4 dollars.
If I run across sea salt in bulk or the dollar store, I'll pick some up.
Honestly, I've not noticed any difference in the soap when using expensive salts.


----------



## Clarice (Feb 5, 2019)

Hi all. Just unmolded my soap. See attached picture, recipe below too with notes;  not I followed methodology suggested by skinchakra.com.eu

Questions to forum

Note the bars outlined in yellow. See how beautifully shiny they are?  I did not number my pour so I do not know if these were the first poured, but I am guessing yes.

Note the bars outlined in red.  These and all the other bars were far more matte in appearance.

I LOVE the super shiny look. I think it is elegant and beautiful.  why would it change?  Same mold, same tray as point of comparison.  Would stirring soap in between each mold cavity be a way to mitigate this? 

Also, I am not smelling any fragrance at all — I used frankincense EO — does it “burn out” or is it likely I just did not add enough

Thank you all so much.

I forgot to say thank you to @atlz for recipe!!!


----------



## SaltedFig (Feb 5, 2019)

cmzaha said:


> ...  Costco sells a Himalayan Pink that is very scratchy and seem to include a lot of clay or something



@cmzaha, I have noticed that Himalayan Pink salt is almost identical to the colour of French pink clay, so it is possible that a cheaper source would be mixing the clay with sea salt, in the same way that some of the black salts are charcoal and salt together.

(Just a bit of trivia ... I was given some "Himalayan Pink" salt in an unmarked bag by a friend a while back, who "got it cheap" - when I did a test dissolve of that, it fizzed! No idea where that lot came from )

@Clarice, your soaps look beautiful!
When you say that you did not number the pour ... do you have different molds, or were you re-using the same mold?
If it's the first pour, the batter will be thinner so it can make a smoother finish, if it's the same mold, then the mold can deteriorate slightly between uses - silicone is slightly damaged by soap batter, especially when it is hot. Or both.

Could you add your usage rate (for your EO)?


----------



## Obsidian (Feb 5, 2019)

When scenting soap, you have to use quite a bit, for your batch I would have went with 2 oz. A few drops just won't do it


----------



## Clarice (Feb 5, 2019)

SaltedFig said:


> @cmzaha,
> When you say that you did not number the pour ... do you have different molds, or were you re-using the same mold?
> If it's the first pour, the batter will be thinner so it can make a smoother finish, if it's the same mold, then the mold can deteriorate slightly between uses - silicone is slightly damaged by soap batter, especially when it is hot. Or both.
> 
> Could you add your usage rate (for your EO)?



ummmmmmm, dropped some in til I liked the smell 

I know, I know, I need to be more scientific about that part!  maybe THAT is the major problem.  However - it occurs to me - should the smell at trace be STRONGER than I would want finished?  Does it dissipate a bit?  

Re the mold - there are two molds represented there - each have six cavities.  What blew me away was that what (I think) i poured first was so shiny, and the ones i poured thereafter were more matte.  And I was working relatively quickly - like whole batch was poured in two or three minutes i would guess.  

Thank you for your feedback!!!


----------



## Clarice (Feb 5, 2019)

Obsidian said:


> Salt soap is generally matte, especially if using brine. I have no idea on the shiny bars.
> 
> When scenting soap, you have to use quite a bit, for your batch I would have went with 2 oz. A few drops just won't do it



YIKES!!!!!  

I need to find a MUCH More economical source for frankincense - I was using some I bought at Sprouts, and it was something like $15 bucks for a half ounce of 100% pure EO (no carrier) 

That would be one expensive soap


----------



## DeeAnna (Feb 5, 2019)

Clarice said:


> ...I need to find a MUCH More economical source for frankincense...



Welcome to one big reason why many of us use fragrance oils in our soap. There are suppliers who can provide frankincense for less cost. Even so, fragrance is often the most expensive ingredient in soap, and it's also true that EOs are often more expensive than FOs. Not always, but often.


----------



## cmzaha (Feb 5, 2019)

SaltedFig said:


> @cmzaha, I have noticed that Himalayan Pink salt is almost identical to the colour of French pink clay, so it is possible that a cheaper source would be mixing the clay with sea salt, in the same way that some of the black salts are charcoal and salt together.
> 
> Could you add your usage rate (for your EO)?


You could use pink clay or just color it. I prefer using pigments to color salt, which I used to do, not anymore. I fragrance my salt bars at 8% since mine tend to lose fragrance. The salt just destroys most fo's in the year I age my salt bars. You end up with a wonderful salt bar with no fragrance to speak of. Even when I make my DB salt bars I have to up the usage, and many of us know my DB is very strong


----------



## Clarice (Feb 5, 2019)

when i boiled my Himalayan sea salt, at the bottom of the pot was what looked like french red clay....

@cmzaha what is DB?  Thanks!  

I had NO idea so much fragrance was needed - I remember looking at the soap calculator and going, no way ray......hahahahah


----------



## cmzaha (Feb 5, 2019)

Clarice said:


> ummmmmmm, dropped some in til I liked the smell
> 
> I know, I know, I need to be more scientific about that part!  maybe THAT is the major problem.  However - it occurs to me - should the smell at trace be STRONGER than I would want finished?  Does it dissipate a bit?
> 
> Re the mold - there are two molds represented there - each have six cavities.  What blew me away was that what (I think) i poured first was so shiny, and the ones i poured thereafter were more matte.  And I was working relatively quickly - like whole batch was poured in two or three minutes i would guess.


The first pour most likely had less salt on the top since your batter was still pretty fluid. As your soap thickens the salt will disperse more evenly and you will get the color change, it is also good to stir your batter before each pour. Quick stir

Sorry, DB is my Dragon's Blood that is made for me. It is very strong compared to many


----------



## Clarice (Feb 5, 2019)

Thanks so much for stir advice!  Dragon's Blood - sounds wonderful and mysterious!


----------



## SaltedFig (Feb 5, 2019)

cmzaha said:


> ... Costco sells a Himalayan Pink that is very scratchy and seem to include a lot of clay or something





SaltedFig said:


> @cmzaha, I have noticed that Himalayan Pink salt is almost identical to the colour of French pink clay, so it is possible that a cheaper source would be mixing the clay with sea salt, in the same way that some of the black salts are charcoal and salt together.





cmzaha said:


> You could use pink clay or just color it. I prefer using pigments to color salt, which I used to do, not anymore. I fragrance my salt bars at 8% since mine tend to lose fragrance. The salt just destroys most fo's in the year I age my salt bars. You end up with a wonderful salt bar with no fragrance to speak of. Even when I make my DB salt bars I have to up the usage, and many of us know my DB is very strong



I don't make Himalayan salt/soleseife bars, except as testers - I've worked out the circumstance of the crystal re-growth (it took a while to replicate it, but I'm done with that testing), so I wouldn't be colouring it myself - the comment on French pink clay was to give a possible explanation as to why your Himalayan Pink salt seemed to have clay in it - it might have been a clay colorant.

The EO question was under Clarice's name, but I agree with you on that one - the scents in salt soaps do tend to diminish quickly.


----------



## Obsidian (Feb 5, 2019)

I just found some three year old salt bars scented with bb dark rich chocolate that still smell amazing. I just wish it didn't discolor so bad.


----------



## SaltedFig (Feb 5, 2019)

Obsidian said:


> I just found some three year old salt bars scented with bb dark rich chocolate that still smell amazing. I just wish it didn't discolor so bad.



Obsidian, do you have the same scent in an ordinary soap, to compare?
I would be interested in hearing your observations on the two, compared side by side as it were, if you do.


----------



## Meena (Feb 5, 2019)

Meena said:


> Geez, even lovinsoap is handing out bad info, though:
> 
> "Size doesn’t really matter. I prefer fine grain,* but you can use up to large grain. It all melts with the warm water* so isn’t that scratchy or exfoliating. (*HUH??*)
> 
> ...



Just to clarify:  What lovinsoap said about 'size doesn't matter' is True for Soleseife and NOT true for salt bars.  Not sure if she was mixing apples and oranges -- you know, talking about salt bars and accidentally pulling something from her brain about soleseife, getting the 2 crossed up.  Whatever, i've only been up an hour.  



amd said:


> I don't think there is a "perfect" source for soap info (other than here, ahem) where all things are considered.



Funny, I thought the exact thing today or yesterday.  Everyone has a YouTube Channel (hyperbole, obviously); everyone that's made 3 batches of soap wants to make a video about how to make soap.  Our world is overrun with self-styled experts, but I find the advice here -- thanks especially to the admins and some of the long-time soapers (you know who you are ), is First Class!





Clarice said:


> View attachment 35904
> 
> 
> Hi all. Just unmolded my soap. See attached picture, recipe below too with notes;  not I followed methodology suggested by skinchakra.com.eu
> ...



I have no answers, but want to say how lovely these turned out!  So pure white, too.


----------



## atiz (Feb 5, 2019)

Clarice said:


> View attachment 35904
> 
> 
> Hi all. Just unmolded my soap. See attached picture, recipe below too with notes;  not I followed methodology suggested by skinchakra.com.eu
> ...


Beautiful soaps! I love the pure look. As others have said, it needs quite a bit of EO to make a strong scent. (In my first batches I did not use quite enough either. Now I use around 3% which seems to be okay, although some EOs notoriously fade over time. You should measure your EO just as you measure your other oils.)


----------



## Obsidian (Feb 5, 2019)

SaltedFig said:


> Obsidian, do you have the same scent in an ordinary soap, to compare?
> I would be interested in hearing your observations on the two, compared side by side as it were, if you do.



I don't. I've only used it in salt bars and a rebatch once. Not sure how long it lasted in the rebatch, it was used up within a few months. I expect it would last forever in regular soap.


----------



## KiwiMoose (Feb 5, 2019)

@Clarice - they look so beautiful.  I have noticed that the more I use my silicone molds the more rough the finish is on the bars.  I also think due to high humidity at the moment that is affecting them.
Has anyone ever tried 'greasing' their molds with a slick of oil on a cloth before pouring the soap?  Would that help?


----------



## Clarice (Feb 6, 2019)

That is a great idea too!  i have plenty of salt brine, so I might experiment with that.  

I also have food grade silicone spray that I use in my food grinder (I make raw cat food for my babies!) so i may try that in a few cavities as well and take notes!  

Thanks for thinking of this! 

(like the picture!)


----------

