# Calling all Lotion Crafters! Questions!



## aruala (Apr 25, 2014)

I have been making lotion for about 4 months and recently i found that one of the jars I made which has been sitting for about 2 months was opened and it had mold on the top. Brand new not opened since being made and it had mold. I know your suppose to refrigerate and such but to be honest i don't and they are always been fine. Never once has one had mold. I make everything all natural so im aware of the shorter life-span for my lotions i don't use a preservative just vitamin E. I am aware its not an preservative its and antioxidant. lol

This is my recipe, 

1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup distilled water
1/2 cup wax
1 tsp vitamin e
1 tsp JoJoba Oil
1 tsp Shea


This is my base formula, it has been quite successful.

I dont want that change from being all natural, Its the reason i started making all these products. I'm wondering what you guys do to prolong the life of your lotions and and how long (estimate) they last? Do you put an expiration on your jars? Do you tell people to refrigerate? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks!

Aruala


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## The Efficacious Gentleman (Apr 25, 2014)

When I start making lotions (have all the stuff, just need to find time that I don't fill with soap or cello practice! or fourm watching) I will be using a preservative to prolong the life of the lotions.  My view is that a tiny percentage of a quality preservative is better than a growing body of mould.  Don't forget, mould is there before you can actually see it, too - so while some people might be happy to smear some very natural pre-mould bacteria on to themselves, I'll take a wee bit prevention.

That's just my 6.44 Zimbabwe Dollars


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## aruala (Apr 25, 2014)

Thanks for the reply  Yes, its true it is better then mold. Im trying to find other options, i attempted no water useage but its just not the same. I am wondering what the guide lines are for all natural products like less then 1% of a preservative still may be considered all natural. There are a few paraben free preservatives.. I am just not sure of them :/ Its had to find time for anything else agreed. lol soap keeps me pretty time consumed as well. haha


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## The Efficacious Gentleman (Apr 25, 2014)

That is a good point.  I remember something on the guidelines for cosmetics in the US, about calling it natural, that if less than x% was not natural it is still fine to call it natural.  I can't find it again, nor can I remember what it was exactly, but it was actually higher than one would think.


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## Saponista (Apr 26, 2014)

If you are planning on marketing the lotion and it contains water, then you are going to need a proper preservative of some kind. Have a look at what some of the natural and organic companies put in their products by looking at the ingredients lists on their websites. Also sterilise your containers really really well before filling them. You can put lotions in pump bottles with bases that push up as you use them meaning the product isn't exposed to the air which may help. I think you still need a preservative though, or you could be looking at a law suit from someone.


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## Saponista (Apr 26, 2014)

http://www.trevarnoskincare.co.uk

Out of interest I was looking at the creams and lotions they make on this website. All they seem to add is grapefruit seed extract, which doesn't strike me as being effective enough, but they have to have passed all the strict eu testing regulations to sell it so it may be worth trying something like that.


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## maya (Apr 26, 2014)

Here (I am in the U.S.) Wholefoods tends to be the standard for all. things. natural. Check what preservative they use.


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## pamielynn (Apr 26, 2014)

You need to understand the HLB system and should really think about preservatives. Here's a link to Susan's blog, dealing with preservation.
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/search/label/preservatives


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## aruala (Apr 28, 2014)

Alright, so after much deliberation I have decided to go with a preservative. I have researched a lot of the different kind and ended up going with Optiphen since it is Paraben Free and Formaldehyde Free. I have so many people who are interested in my lotions and I want it to be safe. I just wasn't comfortable using a chemical but, for anyone who happens to stumble upon this and has the same questions...There is no possible way to make a lotion without a preservative if you want to put it on a shelf. Its just not safe and not worth harming someone. You can most definitely make an all natural but be aware it wont last longer then a few weeks. if that. Thanks to everyone for helping me understand this, i think i was just uninformed and i appreciate all the help. As soon as i make a new batch of lotions ill be sure to share photos with you all <3

Aruala


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## shunt2011 (Apr 28, 2014)

Not only are preservatives necessary in water based products.  What you may not know is that just because you can't see it, doesn't mean it's not there.  So, you product may have had mold or other nasties in it and you just couldn't see it.  I believe in being on the safe side as I don't want to cause anyone an infection that could be life treatening in some.   Glad to hear you have decided to go to the safe side of it.


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## DeeAnna (Apr 28, 2014)

I second Pamilynn's suggestion to read up on emulsifiers. You don't have one in your base recipe and that is another issue for failure. I personally would not give or sell a product without preservative or a proper emulsifier, even with a "refrigerate immediately" or a "best by date" on the label. Also, best management practices should be followed to make your product as sanitary as possible, even if you are only using the product on yourself. For example, do you do a "heat and hold" method to sanitize your ingredients? Do you sanitize your work area, utensils, other equipment, and product containers with an effective solution?

I recently went to my local "whole foods" store and was browsing the toiletries section. The ingredients list in a line of "all natural" lotions showed just beeswax as a thickener, no proper emulsifier, and no preservative. The product was being sold in a wide-mouth jar, so one had to dip fingers into the product to use it. When I gingerly opened the tester jar, I saw the lotion was weeping droplets of liquid. I cringed to think of all the anonymous fingers that had contributed their loads of bacteria and fungi. Ugh. If this is what an "all natural" lotion should be ... I'll pass, thanks.


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## paillo (Apr 28, 2014)

I've been really happy with NeoDefend as a preservative. After a year no spoilage problems at all with my lotions. I don't sell these, just for friends and family, if I were selling them I might consider switching, but don't think I will. Would love to hear from others who have used this or have thoughts on it.  Good info here: http://www.lotioncrafter.com/neodefend.html


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## elmtree (Apr 29, 2014)

paillo said:


> I've been really happy with NeoDefend as a preservative. After a year no spoilage problems at all with my lotions. I don't sell these, just for friends and family, if I were selling them I might consider switching, but don't think I will. Would love to hear from others who have used this or have thoughts on it.  Good info here: http://www.lotioncrafter.com/neodefend.html




I use NeoDefend in a few of my products. None are for sale yet as I am waiting to be sure they stay germ free but so far so good. It does leave a bit of a citrus odor to the product.


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## elmtree (Apr 29, 2014)

aruala said:


> I have been making lotion for about 4 months and recently i found that one of the jars I made which has been sitting for about 2 months was opened and it had mold on the top. Brand new not opened since being made and it had mold. I know your suppose to refrigerate and such but to be honest i don't and they are always been fine. Never once has one had mold. I make everything all natural so im aware of the shorter life-span for my lotions i don't use a preservative just vitamin E. I am aware its not an preservative its and antioxidant. lol
> 
> 
> 
> ...




If you are thinking about selling or giving stuff away I would use an emulsifier, preservative, and start using weight instead of volume. Much more accurate. I would be really grossed out if I bought or received stuff that separated and wasn't made with good manufacturing practices. I didn't even give stuff away till I could be sure it was safe and I had insurance. With all of the skin issues and allergies out there now... I'm actually allergic to mold.


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## lotionlady (Apr 29, 2014)

Both Geogard Ultra (aka NeoDefend) and Benzylalcohol DHA are ecocert approved for use in natural and organic products.  I use them both and love them.  I have also found that it is really important to "heat and hold" your ingredients at 170 deg for 20 mins.  I use a dedicated coffee pot for some of my creams and once it died and I didn't notice.  The cream came back from testing with high bacterial count.  Sagescript does testing for a very reasonable fee to make sure your formula is working.  It's not just a matter of being grossed out.  Once your product is out of your hands, a little one can get a hold of it and poke a finger in the eye.  The possibilities are endless.  Not trying to freak you out but this is something to respect IMHO.


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## Aline (Apr 29, 2014)

aruala said:


> Alright, so after much deliberation I have decided to go with a preservative. I have researched a lot of the different kind and ended up going with Optiphen since it is Paraben Free and Formaldehyde Free. I have so many people who are interested in my lotions and I want it to be safe. I just wasn't comfortable using a chemical but, for anyone who happens to stumble upon this and has the same questions...There is no possible way to make a lotion without a preservative if you want to put it on a shelf. Its just not safe and not worth harming someone. You can most definitely make an all natural but be aware it wont last longer then a few weeks. if that. Thanks to everyone for helping me understand this, i think i was just uninformed and i appreciate all the help. As soon as i make a new batch of lotions ill be sure to share photos with you all <3
> 
> Aruala



Hi Aruala,
I currently use Optiphen Plus (Optiphen is not broad sprectrum) but am planning on switching to something like Leucidal (once I have researched in thoroughly).
See: http://www.lotioncrafter.com/leucidal-liquid-sf.html
I had the same dilemma when starting out lotion making but quickly realized it is a necessity. And grapefruit seed extract, rosemary oleoresin etc are not broad sprectrum from my understanding.
Aloha,
Aline


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## aruala (May 1, 2014)

My apologies, the part of my formula that says wax is emulsifying wax. I should have specified. I am also insured


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## aruala (May 1, 2014)

Hello Aline,

how has your success been with optiphen? Do you sell your lotion?


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## shunt2011 (May 1, 2014)

Also, GSE and ROE are not preservatives at all, they are antioxidents. May may preserve the life of your oils but will not stop mold or other buggies.


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## aruala (May 1, 2014)

What is GSE and ROE? There are so many mixed opinions about preservatives.. :/


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## DeeAnna (May 2, 2014)

GSE = grapefruit seed extract
ROE = rosemary oleoresin extract

"...There are so many mixed opinions about preservatives...."

If the sources you are using are saying GSE and ROE are preservatives, then the sources are being written by people who have minimal knowledge of cosmetic science. There are a fair number of ignorant, false, and downright dangerous "facts" being passed around the internet blog-o-sphere like the cold virus in a 4th grade classroom. This particular bit of misinformation that an antioxidant = preservative is widespread amongst those folks. The best place to get set straight is Susan Barclay Nichols website (http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.ca).

"[Vitamin E and grapefruit seed extract] ...are anti-oxidants, meaning they will retard the rancidity of our oils, but they don't protect our products from bacteria, fungus, yeast, or molds, which is what preservatives do...." Source: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2014/01/weekend-wonderings-whats-plasticizer.html

"...Study after study has shown that the preserving power of GSE comes from the preservatives added to the product. Various studies have shown GSE contains benzethonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, triclosan, and various parabens, and these are what offer the bacteria, fungus, yeast, and mould fighting powers attributed to GSE...." Source: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2010/10/preservatives-grapefruit-seed-extract.html

"...For non-water containing or anhydrous products, we can add anti-oxidants, or ingredients that will retard the rancidity of our oils. The anti-oxidant we use most is Vitamin E, but there are other oil soluble anti-oxidants, like rosemary oleo extract (ROE). Adding an anti-oxidant to an anhydrous product will extend its shelf life...." Source: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2014/01/weekend-wonderings-do-we-need-to.html


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## Dahila (May 2, 2014)

I make lotion for myself and my friends but I would not dream of making one without the preserving it.  Very dangerous...I would not buy " natural" either


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## brigettevelasquez (May 26, 2014)

Have you tried using potassium sorbate and phenoxyethanol?


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## grayceworks (May 27, 2014)

Or potassium sorbate and benzyl alcohol, though tricky to get the right effectiveness, is kinda close to natural...


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## Aline (May 27, 2014)

aruala said:


> Hello Aline,
> 
> how has your success been with optiphen? Do you sell your lotion?



Yes, I do sell my lotion. Optiphen Plus mind you, not just Optiphen.


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## Neve (May 27, 2014)

I'd love to be all natural but I use liquid germall plus and no issues so far I've been using my lotions for quite a few months. 

They are only used by me and my husband so they haven't been challenge tested but they look feel and smell just like the day I made them. I heat and hold 20 mins and  use brand new plastic spoons to stir. I always have a spray bottle of alcohol handy too. 

I've never tried it without preservative I wouldn't want to.


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## Dahila (Jun 2, 2014)

Swiftmonkey blog gives all the info necessary to make cosmetics without the dangerous bacteria growth or mold.   I am using Optiphen plus and liquid germall plus,  both work pretty well.  Optiphen plus gives the lotion a bit of cream cheese look.  It needs to be added at very low temps otherwise there will be separation


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## Aline (Jun 2, 2014)

Dahila said:


> Swiftmonkey blog gives all the info necessary to make cosmetics without the dangerous bacteria growth or mold.   I am using Optiphen plus and liquid germall plus,  both work pretty well.  Optiphen plus gives the lotion a bit of cream cheese look.  It needs to be added at very low temps otherwise there will be separation



Actually with Optiphen Plus it depends what kind of emulsifier you are using. It destabilized a lotion I made using E-wax but once I switched to BTMS I found I could incorporate it at higher temperatures with no problem (I make a very thick lotion so I want to pour it as warm as possible!)


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## seven (Jun 8, 2014)

I am using liquid germall plus. as far as i understand, it's broad spectrum and paraben free. it is also fairly easy to use and is the only preservative i am using (so far) for my liquid soap, shampoo, and lotions/creams.


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## eucalypta (Jun 16, 2014)

I'm so happy to see so many sensible people here. 

 May I add the following to the discussion:

 - I'm a Germall Plus fan, but sometimes I use a different one. 
 It all depends on the pH or formula of your product. Optiphen (not suitable for watery products like douchegel or gels) and Geogard Ultra - pH of 3 to 7 - ecocert.

 - There is more than one issue with the "all natural" productline manufactureres; especially with their ingredient lists.
 When they claim to have no preservatives in a (water containing) product; the preservative is usually hidden in the used ingredients and the "perfume" part: aloe vera gel for example  already contains a preservative, and benzoin is a fragrance that has some antifungal and antisceptic properties see link.

 - I'm from Europe; as of July 2013, an addition to the cosmetic legislation is made. A list of 27 allergens with restricted use, is published.
 If a product contains any of those allergens, they must be listed on the product label.
 It won't suprise you that a lot of natural products overnight turned out to be not as innocent as we assumed.

 FYI an updated ingredientlist of dr.Hauschka's after sun lotion (click on the arrow next to "ingredients")  and an article about benzyl benzoate.

 I don't mention this to scare you (we've got some common sense, don't we), but merely food for thoughts.


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