# Equipment Question(s)



## cursivearts (May 10, 2013)

One, what do you soap in?  Like, what container to do you mix lye in and what do you mix the lye and oils in?  And what do you use when you have to split off batches for dye?  Right now I use a big stainless steel pot for mixing and a large pyrex measuring cup for the lye, but the pot is almost too big (I tend to make 2 lb batches).  

Also, what do you use for curing and where do you cure?  Right now all of my soaps are in open cardboard boxes on top of a cabinet here in the kitchen, but there are getting to be too many and now they are spreading to the desk and I'm running out of room and I haven't even ummolded my beer soap yet...

I know I have a lot of questions today, but it's Mother's Day weekend and I'm hoping to get some soaping equipment for Mother's Day.


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## Miz Jenny (May 10, 2013)

I use various sizes plastic bowls and tubs. Since I do room temp I rarely use a pot


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## Bicycle808 (May 10, 2013)

Stainless steel pots for lye h2o and for mixing the lye h2o with the oils (I have a few soap pots.)  I don't use dyes.  I sure on wire steel shelves that I got for cheap at home depot.  I bought twos sets, but hung all the shelves on one set of supports, so the shelves are low-profile and space-efficient.


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## heatherglen (May 10, 2013)

I bought a small (3 gallon, I think) plastic paint bucket at Lowe's and that's what I use to mix everything. I just emptied my plastic pail from my coconut oil, so I will probably use that, too. I mix the lye in a plastic pitcher. I also use various sizes of plastic containers (cottage cheese, cool whip, etc.) for pour offs and mixing colors. I make about 2 lb. at a time and the bucket is just about the right size, so that I don't worry about splashes. My hand blender seems to have a mind of it's own!!


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## Marilyna (May 10, 2013)

For smaller batches, I use plastic measuring cups for lye and plastic containers for the fats and mixing the lye & fats.  For large batches, I use a plastic pitcher for lye water and larger plastic containers for fats and mixing.  
The large (1 quart) measuring cups are really nice, too.

Try going to your local Dollar Tree or other store that has everything for a dollar.  They have a lot of useful stuff cheap.


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## lsg (May 10, 2013)

I use a plastic ice cream bucket from Schwan Food Sales to mix in.  I use small disposable plastic cups to measure out the lye and a stainless steel pitcher to mix lye with water.  I use large disposable drinking cups to divide the soap batch when I want to color.  I have designated silicone spatulas and wooden spoons for mixing along with my trusty stick blender.


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## Candybee (May 10, 2013)

When I first started I went to my local Goodwill store and bought a nice set of bowls. They are white plastic bowls in 3 sizes with pour spouts. Later I found them at Walmart for about $30 for the set. I got them for $3. I also found another plastic bowl with a handle and pour spout I use for my lye water. Now I always scout flea markets and thrift shops for potential soaping equipment.

For curing 'racks' I have a few of those cheap steel/aluminum? shelving units. I converted them into curing racks by taking out a couple of shelves from the other units and putting them on one unit so it has several shelves. I can get 20 batches of 5lb soaps on one shelving unit this way. I do line the shelves with wax paper but will soon get some shelving paper at the dollar store.

I keep looking at bakers racks and wish I had the money to buy a couple of those for curing racks.

Also, in the future I am going to get some plastic buckets at Lowe's so I have extra soaping pails. For now I am saving the plastic buckets my oils and butters come in. I plan to use those for premixing batches to save time.


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## misskat22 (May 10, 2013)

I have a nice glass bowl that I use for mixing my oils in, I measure my lye into my pyrex but mix it in a plastic juice jug (clearly marked!) that I got from the dollar store. I have a 4 cup and 8 cup pyrex measuring cups that I use to pour off for mixing colours. I'm just starting though so I'm sure I'll expand


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## cursivearts (May 10, 2013)

I'm glad I posted this question.  It's giving me affordable ideas.  The stainless pot I use is just too heavy.  I would not mind having something I could manage one handed for pouring two colors at once.  I do have a stick blender, a big slotted spoon and some small ones I use, plus a spatula, all just for soaping.


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## Lotus (May 10, 2013)

One, what do you soap in?  Like, what container to do you mix lye in and what do you mix the lye and oils in?  And what do you use when you have to split off batches for dye?  Right now I use a big stainless steel pot for mixing and a large pyrex measuring cup for the lye, but the pot is almost too big (I tend to make 2 lb batches). 

_*I do exactly the same (but recently was told [though I still doubt it] that perhaps pyrex can still break, and to use a plastic bucket. So, I use something I saved all these years from the first time I made soap. My stainless steel pot is too big too. I make 3 lb batches. I have to tip it sideways in order to submerge my stick blender. *_ 

Also, what do you use for curing and where do you cure?  Right now all of my soaps are in open cardboard boxes on top of a cabinet here in the kitchen, but there are getting to be too many and now they are spreading to the desk and I'm running out of room and I haven't even ummolded my beer soap yet... 

_*I have three pieces of plywood, that I cover with wax paper, and put my soaps on. But, those boards actually serve me a purpose other than holding soap. So, I just bought a stackable rack/shelf thing, which I think will be helpful. I'm still waiting for it to come.*_

I know I have a lot of questions today, but it's Mother's Day weekend and I'm hoping to get some soaping equipment for Mother's Day.


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## mel z (May 10, 2013)

Dedicated stick blender, spatulas, spoons, pot, recycled plastic tub for lye along with a Dollar Tree plastic pitcher (if I ever see a SS one at a thrift store I'm grabbing it), some Dollar Tree containers, some small paint plastic pails for colors, disposable cups and spoons, dedicated silicone molds of various sizes from thrift stores, some new just for soap, wooden mold, cardboard box molds of any shape and size, plastic food molds from store bought foods (cleaned of course), small jars for measuring EO, anything cheap that looks like it can serve a purpose, toothpicks, skewers, Parmesan shake container, I may never end the list, so I'll stop here.


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## ghia61 (May 10, 2013)

I make 2 lb batches and use a 2 qt SS saucepan to melt the oils and do the blending. Lye water I mix in a silicone mixing cup. For curing, since it's such small batches I use a coated cooling rack set up on the dresser in the guest room.


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## lizflowers42 (May 10, 2013)

I weigh my water in a rubbermade pitcher, weight my lye in an old yogurt/cottage cheese/sour cream container.  Then I pour my lye into the rubbermade pitcher and stir with a silicone spatula I bought specifically for soap making.  Depending on the size of the batch I will either use the stoneware crock from a crock pot I picked up from Goodwill just for soap making, or a plastic painters bucket as mentioned above, or I have a stainless steel pot (my largest soaping vehicle!) that was once used in the kitchen, but is now for soap making!  I have a pyrex container that I will use to melt my hard oils in the microwave to add to the bucket, or pot, whatever I am using.  Then I pour my lye water into my oil and start mixing with a stick blender, and then if I want to color some of my soap I split the batter out into more cottage cheese/sour cream/yogurt containers.

Then I have some nice hand made wooden molds from my father in law for larger batch sizes, a silicone cupcake mold that I picked up from the Target dollar spot center, many saved OJ/half gallon milk cartons, shoe boxes, Pringles cans and cardboard boxes that I will line for molds!


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## Lotus (May 10, 2013)

ghia61 said:


> I make 2 lb batches and use a 2 qt SS saucepan to melt the oils and do the blending. Lye water I mix in a silicone mixing cup. For curing, since it's such small batches I use a coated cooling rack set up on the dresser in the guest room.



Ooh! I didn't think of that. What do you coat it with?


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## cursivearts (May 10, 2013)

Cool, I think I need to get a dedicated small paint bucket for mixing the lye and oils as some of you have done.  My stainless steel pot is just too big.  I too have to tip it to submerge.  We have one pitcher I could probably mix lye in.  My husband once made kombu dashi in it (seaweed stock) and the smell lingered for so long, we don't use it anymore.  I would also like to get a small whisk for mixing up my powdered pigments.  Honestly, I think we have at least three small ones, so if I took one no one would notice. 

For molds, I have two wooden ones by FIL made me and 2 pvc molds.


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## VanessaP (May 10, 2013)

cursivearts said:


> One, what do you soap in?  Like, what container to do you mix lye in and what do you mix the lye and oils in?  And what do you use when you have to split off batches for dye?  Right now I use a big stainless steel pot for mixing and a large pyrex measuring cup for the lye, but the pot is almost too big (I tend to make 2 lb batches).



To measure my lye, I use paper cups that I buy in bulk at Sam's Club. To mix my lye solution in, I have a PP 5 Mainstays 2 quart pitcher from Walmart or a HDPE 1 gallon pitcher, depending on how big a batch I'm making up. Please please please don't use pyrex for mixing up your lye solution. Glass etches from the lye over time and has been known to shatter with and without any solution in it.

To actually soap in, I use a HDPE bucket from the Walmart paint department. 5qt holds a 5.5lb batch perfectly. I have some 2.5 qt for splitting off portions to color. Plus, the 5qt fits in my microwave so I can warm up my oils gently.



cursivearts said:


> Also, what do you use for curing and where do you cure?  Right now all of my soaps are in open cardboard boxes on top of a cabinet here in the kitchen, but there are getting to be too many and now they are spreading to the desk and I'm running out of room and I haven't even ummolded my beer soap yet...


I had to suck it up and buy a 5 shelf unit from Lowe's to stack stuff on in my bedroom LOL I use stackable baker/cookie cooling racks. I have an older set of 3 that are really sturdy and are kind of like cross hatching but I also have a new set of 3 that are just parallel sets of wire so they tend to buckle a bit under the same amount of weight. The racks are just high enough that as long as I don't have high decorative tops, they're just the right height.


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## cursivearts (May 10, 2013)

Will any plastic work for these?  I'd imagine at least 'dishwasher safe' to withstand the heat.  I am going to go look at that pitcher.  *looks at pitcher"  Yup this will work.  I just wrote LYE on the side in huge letters.  I am going to get a smaller painting mixing bucket or two or three this weekend.  So a lot of you guys use plastic disposable cups for mixing lye?  Then you just toss them in the trash?  I think I will keep using my Pyrex, but just for mixing colors in the lye.  And I will keep an eye on them and if I see any etching, I will stop using them even for that.


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## Candybee (May 10, 2013)

I buy plastic party cups (not styrofoam) from my local grocers and use those to weigh my lye. When I'm done I just wash out and store for next soap batch. For clays, powder colorants, FOs, EOs, honey, etc., I saved empty plastic yogurt cups. I wash the cup out when I am done with it and stack with the others I have until I need one or two for the next soap batch. A bag of plastic party cups lasts a long time since I reuse the cups until they crack or start leaking. A real cheap way to acquire measuring cups for small items you use for soaping.


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## houseofwool (May 10, 2013)

I have a a rubbermaid container that I use for my lye water, the lye itself is measured into a canning jar (but no liquid is ever added to it).

I have a bunch of big yogurt containers that I use for separating off different colors.

I use a variety of bowls for mixing - I have a couple that I picked up at the dollar store that have spouts and handles, but the plastic is a bit thin and I worry about it spilling when I pick it up by the handle when it is full of batter.  I also have 2 crock pot inserts that sometimes get pushed into services when the batches are large enough or even a 5 qt ice cream bucket upon occasion.

I do have dedicated silicone spatulas and a stick blender.  I will 'fess up to grabbing a spoon from the silverware drawer for doing decorative tops.  But, in my defense, they are all stainless.

ETA: I use the small red disposable cups to measure out EOs and colorants, but I am not really keen on disposable things in general.


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## cursivearts (May 10, 2013)

Candybee, I bet if I just cleaned out my fridge I could get some containers.  I know there is at least one, possibly two large yogurt containers in there and there is usually a half-empty expired sour cream floating around.  I think we actually have small party cups leftover, that would actually be great for measuring colorants and lye and FOs.  I had been using small glass ramekins we have around ( I just wrote in sharpie on the bottom of one "lye") but in all honestly, they are a pain to wash, always slippery.


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## three_little_fishes (May 10, 2013)

I use a plastic pitcher that I had lying around forever and I have a silicone spoon dedicated for mixing lye and water. I measure everything in plastic measuring cups that I picked up at the dollar store just for soap making. My stick blender is dedicated and I picked it up at a thrift store for $4. I mix everything in either a plastic bucket or I have an enamel pot that I rarely use (hate having to check for scratches every time I use it).


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## ghia61 (May 10, 2013)

Lotus - it's a rack that I bought powder coated (the superheated plastic coating). Probably got it at WM or Target.


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## Marilyna (May 10, 2013)

The disposable plastic drink cups shouldn't be used for straight FO because it will eat through them.  I've had it happen to me.


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## Lotus (May 10, 2013)

ghia61 said:


> Lotus - it's a rack that I bought powder coated (the superheated plastic coating). Probably got it at WM or Target.



Oh! Hey, do you figure the regular metal rack I just bought from Target (I doubt it's stainless) will be okay for curing soap without something under them? I thought it was a cool idea, because it would let them breathe. But, I hope they don't end up rusting up the bars or something. Not that I would put a wet gooey bar on them. : )


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## Candybee (May 10, 2013)

Marilyna said:


> The disposable plastic drink cups shouldn't be used for straight FO because it will eat through them. I've had it happen to me.


 
Glad you made this point. I only use them for weighing out my dry lye beads and also for mixing my coconut milk and honey. I don't use them to mix my lye in or for weighing out FO. 

I use the yogurt cups for FO. They work great and don't break down from the FO. Oh, and I also heard that paper cups will dissolve from FO so don't use those either.


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## ghia61 (May 10, 2013)

Lotus said:


> Oh! Hey, do you figure the regular metal rack I just bought from Target (I doubt it's stainless) will be okay for curing soap without something under them? I thought it was a cool idea, because it would let them breathe. But, I hope they don't end up rusting up the bars or something. Not that I would put a wet gooey bar on them. : )



I've used the rubber or vinyl shelf lining mats with no adverse reactions. Lots of tiny holes for circulation and thick enough to prevent contact with metal surface of cooling racks.


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## Bicycle808 (May 10, 2013)

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but won't lye h2o mess up plastic containers?  Isn't it too caustic?  Is there no danger of the plastic leaching into the solution?

I've been using a SS pot with a 22oz glass beer bottle (bomber) to stir.  I hold it by the neck and immerse the fat end...


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## thinkativeone (May 10, 2013)

I add my lye to a glass bowl (Anchor Hocking) I got for about five bucks at Walmart. Then I add my lye liquid to my oil-filled 12 qt. stainless steel Cuisinart stockpot I got for Christmas for soapmaking purposes - the gift givers are receiving soap in return.


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## lizflowers42 (May 10, 2013)

Bicycle808 said:


> Forgive me if I'm wrong, but won't lye h2o mess up plastic containers?  Isn't it too caustic?  Is there no danger of the plastic leaching into the solution?
> 
> I've been using a SS pot with a 22oz glass beer bottle (bomber) to stir.  I hold it by the neck and immerse the fat end...



Nope, as long as it is HDPE, it's fine!


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## VanessaP (May 10, 2013)

Bicycle808 said:


> Forgive me if I'm wrong, but won't lye h2o mess up plastic containers?  Isn't it too caustic?  Is there no danger of the plastic leaching into the solution?
> 
> I've been using a SS pot with a 22oz glass beer bottle (bomber) to stir.  I hold it by the neck and immerse the fat end...



PP #5 or HDPE plastics have been tested and work fine. Glass is much more dangerous to use with lye.


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## cursivearts (May 10, 2013)

I picked up some small HDPE paint buckets at Walmart today for the main mixing and have set aside another pitcher for mixing lye.  It turns out we do have a ton of disposable cups (at least a hundred), so I will use those for measuring lye and blending my powdered colorants.  I will continue to put my FOs in the small glass ramekins I use though.


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## VanessaP (May 10, 2013)

thinkativeone said:


> I add my lye to a glass bowl (Anchor Hocking) I got for about five bucks at Walmart. Then I add my lye liquid to my oil-filled 12 qt. stainless steel Cuisinart stockpot I got for Christmas for soapmaking purposes - the gift givers are receiving soap in return.



Please consider switching to using a stainless steel or plastic (PP #5 or HDPE) pitcher for mixing up your lye solution. Glass etches over time from contact with lye which weakens the glass and can shatter at the least opportune time. Pyrex is not the same as it used to be. It is not borosilicate anymore. There have been a lot of reports of the glass shattering while in use and I know one soaper whose actually shattered while just sitting in the cabinet NOT in use.

Just because a well known B&B person does use it doesn't mean everyone should. If hers are borosilicate, great, but most likely are not.

http://www.soapmakingforum.com/f11/bummed-about-my-lye-explosion-16707/
http://www.soapmakingforum.com/f11/lye-water-container-22658/


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## Marilyna (May 10, 2013)

Bicycle808 said:


> Forgive me if I'm wrong, but won't lye h2o mess up plastic containers?  Isn't it too caustic?  Is there no danger of the plastic leaching into the solution?
> 
> I've been using a SS pot with a 22oz glass beer bottle (bomber) to stir.  I hold it by the neck and immerse the fat end...


 
Not that I've ever heard of.  I've used plastic for my lye for years, and I know that many people store their made-up lye solution in plastic pitchers and even empty laundry detergent bottles.


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## thinkativeone (May 11, 2013)

VanessaP said:


> Please consider switching to using a stainless steel or plastic (PP #5 or HDPE) pitcher for mixing up your lye solution. Glass etches over time from contact with lye which weakens the glass and can shatter at the least opportune time. Pyrex is not the same as it used to be. It is not borosilicate anymore. There have been a lot of reports of the glass shattering while in use and I know one soaper whose actually shattered while just sitting in the cabinet NOT in use.
> 
> Just because a well known B&B person does use it doesn't mean everyone should. If hers are borosilicate, great, but most likely are not.
> 
> ...



I didn't choose to use glass because of this B&B person you mention - who are you referring to? *confused* I know of more soapmaking people that use lye with glass than plastic. Not on this forum, though, which may be the difference? I haven't been here long though I've read posts on here for awhile. Oh, and this is NOT Pyrex. :-| And Anchor-Hocking is an American company (not sure about Pyrex, I don't have as much glassware as I'd like).


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## mel z (May 11, 2013)

For the glass for measuring FO's and EO's you can use baby food jars, or any other small glass container you can clean out from previous use.

For lye, there are loads of things on the internet about accidents with glass after having used a while and the glass shattering. So, it does, in fact etch, when you see gang tags etched in glass, they used a lye concentration in a pen type thing. I also think it is good to replace your plastic container from time to time. And keep lye solution in the sink if inside.

Also wanted to remind everyone to wear eye protection. Goggles by all means, and I think BB has the best choice with the onion goggles as they have some padding around the eyes. I also purchased an inexpensive face shield on Amazon last week to go over that, as I found that goggles and paper face mask are not enough if the batter splashes. That's just me and being short and too close to the mixture. 

I found that the big rubber gloves are best. The ones you get in the pharmacy are porous, water gets through, so soap gets through. If allergic to latex there are alternatives, again Amazon helped with that for chemical barrier gloves.

In addition, long sleeves. Amazon again has disposable lab coats (you don't have to throw it out after first use), since I don't have a man around to grab a used light weight long sleeve shirt from for summer, I got a lab coat to protect the arms from any soap getting on the arms when playing with tops or colors.

Just some thoughts.


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## Candybee (May 11, 2013)

Goggles and rubber gloves are pretty cheap and very necessary. I've seen a picture of one lady who didn't wear goggles while mixing lye. Her eyes were exposed to the caustic fumes and were really red. She said they hurt really bad but fortunately she recovered.

I did spend some bucks on a good NIOSH approved respirator. I first got it because I make candles and over the years I noticed I started getting a 'smokers' type cough on days I made candles. Since I had quit smoking and was concerned about my lungs healing no way did I want to expose myself to toxic fumes. Then when I started making soap I naturally just started wearing the respirator so I would not inhale the fumes when working with lye. Its a good investment.

As far as long sleeves and pants I just wear old clothes. Always long sleeves and long pants legs and also old non slip type footwear.


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## soapguy (May 11, 2013)

Lotus said:


> Oh! Hey, do you figure the regular metal rack I just bought from Target (I doubt it's stainless) will be okay for curing soap without something under them? I thought it was a cool idea, because it would let them breathe. But, I hope they don't end up rusting up the bars or something. Not that I would put a wet gooey bar on them. : )



[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tru5n-Xi9us[/ame]


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## cursivearts (May 11, 2013)

I was actually wondering about that, because I just bought some of those from Target for actual cookies, but they have a nonstick coating and I find myself wondering if the nonstick coating would react with the soap.


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## souljasam (May 11, 2013)

I was actually thinking bout grabbing some from joanns, but they currently have a sale going on so you vant get em 50% off right now :-(. My soap is just sitting on top of my dresser on parchment paper right now lol.


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## Candybee (May 11, 2013)

Those are cool! Did I hear her right? Those are at Joann's fabric shops? There is one the next town over from me. I can stack those on my shelving units to make more room for curing soap. Where do you get the coupon?

Does anyone have the link for those?


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## souljasam (May 11, 2013)

The racks are here: 
http://m.joann.com/wilton-3-tier-cooling-rack/xprd305829

And i dont see a 50% coupon on their site but you can sign up to the mailing list and they email coupons. Even if you forget a coupon and you ask they usually will ring up a coupon from behind the counter for you. 

As i said tho wait for the wilton sale to end (tomorrow is the last day iirc). So you can get it for $5.50 instead of $8.99.


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## heatherglen (May 11, 2013)

I forgot to say what I use for my curing rack! I found a plastic shelf unit like for a garage at Lowe's (they get a lot of business from me, I guess!). It's the four shelf unit with holes. The holes are kind of big, so I usually tear up paper sacks and set the soap on the paper. It's worked quite well!


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## jcandleattic (May 11, 2013)

thinkativeone said:


> I didn't choose to use glass because of this B&B person you mention - who are you referring to? *confused* I know of more soapmaking people that use lye with glass than plastic. Not on this forum, though, which may be the difference? I haven't been here long though I've read posts on here for awhile. Oh, and this is NOT Pyrex. :-| And Anchor-Hocking is an American company (not sure about Pyrex, I don't have as much glassware as I'd like).



Anchor Hocking, Pyrex, non-specified glass, it doesn't matter it is all still glass and it WILL etch over time and it will eventually either break or explode due to  the lye, regardless of how many soapers do it. 
I say this so many times I feel like a broken record, but it bears repeating so often I feel like I have too. 
Just because you CAN do something, doesn't mean that you should or that it's right. Just because others do something doesn't mean you should or that it is the correct way to do something.


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## VanessaP (May 11, 2013)

souljasam said:


> The racks are here:
> http://m.joann.com/wilton-3-tier-cooling-rack/xprd305829
> 
> And i dont see a 50% coupon on their site but you can sign up to the mailing list and they email coupons. Even if you forget a coupon and you ask they usually will ring up a coupon from behind the counter for you.
> ...



I have a set of this design and a set of the older design. The older design is MUCH sturdier and can hold more weight before bowing. The older design's surface is actually a crosshatch design, small squares. The current design has very few perpendicular supports so it bows and sags a lot faster, plus the metal just isn't quite as thick as it was on the older ones. They're usable, especially if you do only 2-3 lb batches. I save my 5lb batches for the sturdier ones.

I use plain old kraft paper folded to just short of the ends so I can still stack easily.


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## WallFlower (May 11, 2013)

I use stainless steel bowls and a stainless steel pitcher for my lye water. Silicone spatulas and a silicone spoon with a stainless steel handle. I use a silicone mold with a wood box around it. I use an old "CD tower" with glass doors on it for soap right now. It's a tiny one so I can't put more than like 3-4 batches of soap in it at a time. I'd like to get something else, but in the meantime this is what I use.

And I agree, to not use glass of any kind. It may have been a youtube video I saw of a soaper making soap and the pyrex shattered and they mention how etched the glass had gotten from the lye and they will never use glass again. It will shatter and it can be dangerous, the lye water will get everywhere, and glass will get every where, it can get in your oils and then you'd have to throw out all that oil or risk some extra "exfoliation". A costly/dangerous situation. I'd rather skip that lesson myself...


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## Candybee (May 11, 2013)

From my own personal experience I had a large pyrex measuring cup shatter on me one day. I wasn't using it for CP at the time. I had been making M&P soap in that glass for about 5 yrs before it finally broke. I was so surprized and had not imagined that such a sturdy popular brand of glassware would shatter on me but it sure did. So when seasoned soapers tell me that lye can etch the glass that tells me it weakens the glass and yes it will eventually shatter. Could take a few weeks or a few years but I would not want to be there if it shattered with a lye mixture in it.


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## ocean_soul (May 11, 2013)

So....what's glass safe to use with?  I have to ask because, well, after going through the effort of accumulating several glass measuring cups (because that's what all the books I read recommended) you can easily imagine my dismay when I first discovered that glass can etch and shatter over time due to the lye. *le sigh*  I'll have to hit up the dollar store some time soon...


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## cursivearts (May 11, 2013)

As someone mentioned PP#5 plastic and HDPE plastics are safe to use.  I now have a Rubbermaid pitcher I use for mixing lye (they cost about 2 bucks) and a 5 quart paint bucket I got at Walmart for mixing the lye and oils, also cost about two bucks.  (I make small batches, so it is the perfect size).


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## kazmi (May 11, 2013)

I found most of the plastic bowls and pitchers at 2 of the dollar stores that I went to are not HDPE or PP#5.  So be sure to check.


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## thinkativeone (May 12, 2013)

jcandleattic said:


> Anchor Hocking, Pyrex, non-specified glass, it doesn't matter it is all still glass and it WILL etch over time and it will eventually either break or explode due to  the lye, regardless of how many soapers do it.
> I say this so many times I feel like a broken record, but it bears repeating so often I feel like I have too.
> Just because you CAN do something, doesn't mean that you should or that it's right. Just because others do something doesn't mean you should or that it is the correct way to do something.



Sigh. I wear (we wear) safety goggles when I make soap. ETA: We also use the heaviest-duty grade gloves built for working with chemicals. Pets go in a closed room. I only add the lye to the water outside. Yes, I agree along the vein that if all X people are jumping off a bridge, you shouldn't too. That said, I am really just after an explanation. From what I gathered there are plenty of soapmakers that still do this because they may be under the assumption that it is fine with a certain TYPE of glass? I just would really like some clarification. It sounded like people were talking like glass production is different now, but old glass of a certain type is fine. For all I know, many use very old glassware. 

Why specific types of plastic, as well? This is becoming very complicated, because it's hard enough to find real stainless steel (let alone cheap for dedicated equipment), now I have to find a specific type of plastic?? I have a BPA-free plastic pitcher I can use but no way of knowing what it is made of, I think. All I'm wanting is answers. I've only used this thick glass bowl twice. I'm fine with pitching it if I have to now, I just want some scientific reasoning as to why. And these soapmakers that use glass mentioned using stainless steel and plastic as safe as well. I wasn't totally unaware of glass sometimes having issues, hence the adding lye outside.


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## ocean_soul (May 12, 2013)

So, went through my kitchen to see what plastic containers say they're PP 5 or HDPE and I discovered that the containers that my take-out arrives in would work perfectly for soaping...I mentioned this to my husband who eagerly concluded that we have to order out more often.  lol!


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## WallFlower (May 12, 2013)

thinkativeone said:


> Sigh. I wear (we wear) safety goggles when I make soap. ETA: We also use the heaviest-duty grade gloves built for working with chemicals. Pets go in a closed room. I only add the lye to the water outside. Yes, I agree along the vein that if all X people are jumping off a bridge, you shouldn't too. That said, I am really just after an explanation. From what I gathered there are plenty of soapmakers that still do this because they may be under the assumption that it is fine with a certain TYPE of glass? I just would really like some clarification. It sounded like people were talking like glass production is different now, but old glass of a certain type is fine. For all I know, many use very old glassware.
> 
> Why specific types of plastic, as well? This is becoming very complicated, because it's hard enough to find real stainless steel (let alone cheap for dedicated equipment), now I have to find a specific type of plastic?? I have a BPA-free plastic pitcher I can use but no way of knowing what it is made of, I think. All I'm wanting is answers. I've only used this thick glass bowl twice. I'm fine with pitching it if I have to now, I just want some scientific reasoning as to why. And these soapmakers that use glass mentioned using stainless steel and plastic as safe as well. I wasn't totally unaware of glass sometimes having issues, hence the adding lye outside.



A lot of soap makers think that "old pryex" is safe because it was "better made" but no glass is really safe. The lye will etch the glass over time causing it to deteriorate over time. It may not break the 1st time, or the 100th time, but you don't want to gamble when it will break.
Stainless steel of any kind is fine. I have some that are labeled "18/0 stainless steel", and others are just "stainless steel". They all work the same.


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## VanessaP (May 12, 2013)

thinkativeone said:


> Sigh. I wear (we wear) safety goggles when I make soap. ETA: We also use the heaviest-duty grade gloves built for working with chemicals. Pets go in a closed room. I only add the lye to the water outside. Yes, I agree along the vein that if all X people are jumping off a bridge, you shouldn't too. That said, I am really just after an explanation. From what I gathered there are plenty of soapmakers that still do this because they may be under the assumption that it is fine with a certain TYPE of glass? I just would really like some clarification. It sounded like people were talking like glass production is different now, but old glass of a certain type is fine. For all I know, many use very old glassware.



OLD school kitchen glass was made of borosilicate which is lab grade glass which is hellishly expensive these days, comparatively speaking. However, glass is glass and it still etches (to my knowledge), just at a slower rate. Mixing your lye in glass is the equivalent of taking the leap off the bridge and wondering which time is going to be the time your glass finally explodes. While you wear gloves and goggles, do you really want to risk picking lye solution soaked glass out of the rest of the exposed skin on your body/face? Many many of the people who make soap don't realize or know the danger and even if we tried to tell them, they would probably resist, thinking "it won't happen to me".



thinkativeone said:


> Why specific types of plastic, as well? This is becoming very complicated, because it's hard enough to find real stainless steel (let alone cheap for dedicated equipment), now I have to find a specific type of plastic?? I have a BPA-free plastic pitcher I can use but no way of knowing what it is made of, I think. All I'm wanting is answers. I've only used this thick glass bowl twice. I'm fine with pitching it if I have to now, I just want some scientific reasoning as to why. And these soapmakers that use glass mentioned using stainless steel and plastic as safe as well. I wasn't totally unaware of glass sometimes having issues, hence the adding lye outside.



The specific type of plastic is because HDPE and PP5 are the plastics that can handle boiling/near boiling temperatures. Most pitchers sold in your general merchandise store like Walmart, Kmart, etc., are PP5 or HDPE. All you have to do is flip over the container and look at the bottom. If no number is listed, I would bypass it. If it says HDPE or PP or 5 (in a recycle symbol), then you're good to go. These also have a high resistance to lye. I store my lye masterbatches in airtight HDPE pitchers.


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## thinkativeone (May 12, 2013)

VanessaP said:


> Mixing your lye in glass is the equivalent of taking the leap off the bridge and wondering which time is going to be the time your glass finally explodes. While you wear gloves and goggles, do you really want to risk picking lye solution soaked glass out of the rest of the exposed skin on your body/face? Many many of the people who make soap don't realize or know the danger and even if we tried to tell them, they would probably resist, thinking "it won't happen to me".



Luckily before I read this I checked my plastic pitcher and an old coconut gallon container I had and both are suitable based on the past responses (5 and HDPE). I started looking at a bunch of our old plastic containers and found many others to be suitable as well. 

I find it a bit demeaning being spoken to like I am not being safe, when I am. Especially since you don't know me, and I am certainly not one of these many people that would "probably" resist. Maybe it's the way they are being told! :cry: Anybody can get defensive if they are talked to like they are some kind of moron repeatedly! Again, I added the solution outside. We even wear masks much of the time. I wore protective gear, more protective gear and better quality than anyone else I know of that makes soap. *frustrated* I also, to repeat myself, only used this thick glass twice. It sadly gets relegated to destruction by my husband now. Enjoy your soapmaking!


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## WallFlower (May 13, 2013)

thinkativeone said:


> Luckily before I read this I checked my plastic pitcher and an old coconut gallon container I had and both are suitable based on the past responses (5 and HDPE). I started looking at a bunch of our old plastic containers and found many others to be suitable as well.
> 
> I find it a bit demeaning being spoken to like I am not being safe, when I am. Especially since you don't know me, and I am certainly not one of these many people that would "probably" resist. Maybe it's the way they are being told! :cry: Anybody can get defensive if they are talked to like they are some kind of moron repeatedly! Again, I added the solution outside. We even wear masks much of the time. I wore protective gear, more protective gear and better quality than anyone else I know of that makes soap. *frustrated* I also, to repeat myself, only used this thick glass twice. It sadly gets relegated to destruction by my husband now. Enjoy your soapmaking!




I may have missed something but I don't think anyone was trying to put you down. We are all here to help.  It can be hard to convey tone in text so it's possible someone just sounded off. We all start somewhere & we all learn new things at different points in our soapmaking journey.


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## thinkativeone (May 13, 2013)

WallFlower said:


> I may have missed something but I don't think anyone was trying to put you down. We are all here to help.  It can be hard to convey tone in text so it's possible someone just sounded off. We all start somewhere & we all learn new things at different points in our soapmaking journey.



Thank you, solid points all around. I am really just happy that I don't have to go out and buy more "stuff" since we live in such a tiny place and more stuff just frustrates me to no end.  I read a lot of soap books and different soapmaking blogs (the blogs were what eventually persuaded me to bite the bullet and start making soap, after being really afraid of how "scary" lye is for a year...embarrassing, I know) but there is always something new or a different take on something to learn. Only one example is since I've been here I found out, for instance, why my castile soap really reaches its peak at 4-5 months for me and that that's a normal thing. And also I've been encouraged to let it age even longer. Guess I'd better work on getting 4 jugs from Costco to make some more!  You guys are going to steadily fill my place up with soap, I'm sure of it!


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## VanessaP (May 13, 2013)

thinkativeone said:


> Luckily before I read this I checked my plastic pitcher and an old coconut gallon container I had and both are suitable based on the past responses (5 and HDPE). I started looking at a bunch of our old plastic containers and found many others to be suitable as well.
> 
> I find it a bit demeaning being spoken to like I am not being safe, when I am. Especially since you don't know me, and I am certainly not one of these many people that would "probably" resist. Maybe it's the way they are being told! :cry: Anybody can get defensive if they are talked to like they are some kind of moron repeatedly! Again, I added the solution outside. We even wear masks much of the time. I wore protective gear, more protective gear and better quality than anyone else I know of that makes soap. *frustrated* I also, to repeat myself, only used this thick glass twice. It sadly gets relegated to destruction by my husband now. Enjoy your soapmaking!



Trust me, that's me being nice. I wasn't trying to be mean. When I said you, that was more of a collective you. Not trying to point fingers at you specifically. The internet is a tough place to read tone. I am just blunt.


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## MaitriBB (May 13, 2013)

Various HDPE containers from Lowe's that were the cheapest I could find while still being thick enough plastic that the batter won't eat it.


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## jcandleattic (May 13, 2013)

MaitriBB said:


> Various HDPE containers from Lowe's that were the cheapest I could find while still being thick enough plastic that the batter won't eat it.



Glad you found what you needed but being "thick enough" really has nothing to do with whether or not the batter will eat through it or not. 
It has to do with the chemical makeup of the plastic itself. That's why if it's not HDPE or PP5 it shouldn't be used. the lye in the batter or to make the lye solution will eat through it.


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## Nevada (May 13, 2013)

This site show chemical resistance of a particular Plastic
Polypropylene is "number 5" 
This site shows the max temp of a plastic
HDPE and PP (no. 5) are the only two that can handle boiling water


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## chicklet (May 13, 2013)

I've read here and other places that HDPE and PP5 are the only two plastics one should use to mix lye in, and I agree totally, but I've also read that HDPE is the only one to use for storing a lye/water mix that is not going to be used right away (as in masterbatching).  

Thanks for the links, Nevada - lots of good info there.


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## jeremmy (May 13, 2013)

I do room temp soaping. I have a plastic pitcher for my lye, 4cup pyrex measuring cup for all of it together (i just do 1lb batches at a time). I have an extra measuring cup if i want to split it up. I should probably buy a plastic version so that i dont end up with exploded soap or anything like that. 

I have a few stainless steel, stackable racks that i use for my curing soap. Its in my laundry room, which is open to another room so it doesnt get all humid from the dryer or anything.


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## Lotus (May 13, 2013)

jeremmy said:


> I do room temp soaping. I have a plastic pitcher for my lye, 4cup pyrex measuring cup for all of it together (i just do 1lb batches at a time). I have an extra measuring cup if i want to split it up. I should probably buy a plastic version so that i dont end up with exploded soap or anything like that.
> 
> I have a few stainless steel, stackable racks that i use for my curing soap. Its in my laundry room, which is open to another room so it doesnt get all humid from the dryer or anything.



Jeremmy, please tell me. Do you cure your bars directly on your stainless steel racks, or do you put something between them.


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## soapguy (May 13, 2013)

Lotus said:


> Jeremmy, please tell me. Do you cure your bars directly on your stainless steel racks, or do you put something between them.



The three metals you should be worried about are zinc, aluminum, and magnesium. Stainless steel is not a problem while making the soap so it should not be a factor in curing.


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## Moonshea Botanicals (May 13, 2013)

chicklet said:


> I've read here and other places that HDPE and PP5 are the only two plastics one should use to mix lye in, and I agree totally, but I've also read that HDPE is the only one to use for storing a lye/water mix that is not going to be used right away (as in masterbatching).
> 
> Thanks for the links, Nevada - lots of good info there.



I read the last line of the paragraph "as in masterbating" not masterbatching.


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## BankerJohn (May 13, 2013)

I have 6oz yogurt cups, 4ea - 32oz plastic measuring cups, 2each 1 gallon buckets and 1ea 3 gallon bucket.  Homemade wood molds (18"x3.5"X2.5") and my recipes are generally 54oz oil for a single loaf and doubled for 2 loaves.


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## Moonshea Botanicals (May 13, 2013)

OK, so I found a small SS mixing bowl that I will be using to mix my lye water, till I need to use a larger bowl. I have seen in videos some people mixing colors in Pyrex measuring cup. I assume cause the lye is still active, won't it still etch the glass? Or since the lye is mixed with the oils it won't make a difference.


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## soapguy (May 14, 2013)

Moonshea Botanicals said:


> OK, so I found a small SS mixing bowl that I will be using to mix my lye water, till I need to use a larger bowl. I have seen in videos some people mixing colors in Pyrex measuring cup. I assume cause the lye is still active, won't it still etch the glass? Or since the lye is mixed with the oils it won't make a difference.



The risk is probably insignificant if you are using it for color/lye mixing. I use plastic party cups for my color/lye mixture. There is no cleaning involved since I throw the cups away.


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## Candybee (May 14, 2013)

Moonshea Botanicals said:


> I read the last line of the paragraph "as in masterbating" not masterbatching.


 
LMAO


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## jcandleattic (May 14, 2013)

Moonshea Botanicals said:


> OK, so I found a small SS mixing bowl that I will be using to mix my lye water, till I need to use a larger bowl. I have seen in videos some people mixing colors in Pyrex measuring cup. I assume cause the lye is still active, won't it still etch the glass? Or since the lye is mixed with the oils it won't make a difference.



It will still etch the glass, yes, just at a slower rate, but it WILL still happen.


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## Moonshea Botanicals (May 14, 2013)

soapguy said:


> The risk is probably insignificant if you are using it for color/lye mixing. I use plastic party cups for my color/lye mixture. There is no cleaning involved since I throw the cups away.


yeah I saw that on some vids too. I might do that also when I get into the coloring step. 


jcandleattic said:


> It will still etch the glass, yes, just at a slower rate, but it WILL still happen.



OK, use Pyrex for microwaving the harder oils. No use with lye, or raw soap at all. GOTCHA


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