# Oil Layer on top of a loaf



## jwaggle65 (Nov 21, 2014)

I made my first two batches last night. One set up fine (added a fragrant oil) and the other with identical base recipe (added essential oil of peppermint and some minced fresh peppermint ) did not.  I may have over poured olive oil or grape seed oil as I was hurrying when mixing oils.  Can I pour off the excess oil and make a fresh batch to pour on top for "two tone"loaf or should the bottom part assumed to by lye heavy?   How do I pH test my soap for safety before giving as gifts?


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## IrishLass (Nov 21, 2014)

How much oil is there floating on top? If it's not an awfully huge puddle and/or you don't notice any separation in the soap, the oil will actually absorb back in over a period of a few days to a week or so if you just let it sit. I've had a few batches of my own end up with an oily layer on top, but the oil always absorbed back in over a period of days. 

As far as testing pH goes, it's a very tricky thing to attempt with lye-based soaps unless you have a properly calibrated pH meter or plastic lab-grade pH strips and conduct your test with a 1% solution of your soap. But even if you do get a reliable reading, it really doesn't tell you much in the way of whether your soap is lye-heavy or not since the pH of properly made soap without any lye-heaviness can range anywhere from 8.5 to 12. If you ask me , it's much better to do the 'zap test' to detect lye-heaviness. If you do a search here on the forum with the code words 'zap test' or 'tongue test', you'll find many discussions about this subject.

If it were me, I would let the soap sit for a week or so for the oil to absorb back in, and then would wait about another week before conducting the zap test.

IrishLass


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## jwaggle65 (Nov 21, 2014)

The layer is only about 2/3" deep on top.  It appears that my "live" minced peppermint sunk to the bottom which might give a cool layered effect after cutting.  Patience is NOT my strong suit and I only built 2 wooden molds...but I will wait it out on this batch!  I need to produce at least 3 more batches in the next few days so I have a shot at having them cured for Christmas gifts.I used the lye calculator and came up with this recipe...please advise if I should make adjustments:
21 oz coconut oil
10.5 oz grapeseed oil
10.5 oz olive oil
6.214 oz lye
13.86 oz water 
One more question...I want to make a batch using orange juice instead ofwater...is this okay?
Thanks in advance!


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## Chefmom (Nov 21, 2014)

Fresh herbs go quite brown and icky in cold processed soap.  I only used dried herbs in my soaps, and not all of those always come through pretty.  They usually are more consistent in hot process soaps.

If you have only made your first batches of soap, you really have no idea if that recipe is okay to use, let alone for gifts.  I'm not trying to be harsh or nasty, but in cold processed soap, you need to test it yourself long before giving it away.  By the time you cure it, and give it away, it might not pass your standards as good quality soap.  I used my own soaps for months before giving some to family members to try out and only after getting feedback did I try to make more, and after a LOT of reading in books about formulating my own recipes or additives etc.

4 weeks cure for soap, either cold or hot process is just a guideline, more time is almost always better.  I don't even start testing my cold process soaps myself until after 8 weeks, I will bubble up some scraps of hot process that night, just because, but I don't assess the recipe until its had a minimum of 4 weeks to cure.  I always keep a bar of every recipe for 6 months and 1 year to test long term storage and cure and keep notes of every step along the way.  

It's not a quick quick craft by any means.  Every recipe must be tested, even if just to see if your skin likes the formula or not.  

Your recipe is very high in coconut oil, which can be drying to some skin types, did you formulate it yourself?  Or find the recipe online or in a book?

As for your orange juice question I hope another soaper comes in, I have never heard of using orange juice in place of water.


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## Susie (Nov 22, 2014)

Orange Juice is going to make your recipe heat up.  And possibly volcano.

The recipe is within safe limits.  I would not like to use it, but it is safe.

The problem is the Coconut oil.   Being 50% of the recipe, it gives a cleansing number of 34 when the recommended range is 12-22.  The creamy number is also way lower than I would like.

And an oil layer 2/3 inch deep is a really big oil layer.


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## new12soap (Nov 22, 2014)

If you want to give soap as gifts for the holidays, have you considered using melt and pour? You can color and scent them quite nicely, and they will still be handmade.

You really don't have enough time to learn cold process, develop and test recipes, and then cure your soaps in time for this year. I encourage you to continue to learn but please don't give your soaps to others to use until you have a better understanding of the process and the safety of the product.

Several suppliers offer very good MP bases for reasonable prices.


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## cmzaha (Nov 22, 2014)

One other issue with your recipe grapeseed oil can cause a rancidity since it is a short shelf life oil. I do have a face bar I make for oil skin (no I do not list it as such) with grapeseed at !0% with added roe to deter dos. As mentioned previously you really do not have time to make a quality gifting bar of soap. Your percentage of CO and grapeseed is going to make a pretty harsh bar of soap. Take your time learning and purchase a quality m&p base from a company such as New Directions, B&B or Bulk Apothecary. In our opinion they have the nicest m&p bases. My daughter does beautiful m&p and I make our cp soaps. Be aware there is a learning curve for m&p also, but nothing compared to cp soapmaking


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