# Is yellow soap normal?



## MrDude (Apr 23, 2020)

Hi folks, last week I attempted to make my first liquid soap.  It was 60% olive oil, 30% coconut oil, 10% castor, 2% superfat.   I followed instructions gleaned from a few websites/blog posts.  I cooked it for quite a while, but the paste never went fully transparent.  However, when I tested a bit of paste in distilled water, it was clear, and there was no "zap" when I touched it to my tongue (again, just following suggestions, I'm not sure I'd know a "zap" if I felt one, but it sounds like it's pretty obvious).  I diluted some paste 50/50 with distilled water, and it seems great - it foams up beautifully and has a nice texture.  However it's yellow.  Vibrantly shockingly yellow.  I think it looks nice, but my wife thinks it resembles urine.  Here is a photo of both the diluted soap and the paste: New photo by Drew Avis

So lots of newbie questions:
1) is this colour normal?  Is it from using so much olive oil?  I've bought what was labelled 100% castille soap before, and it was never yellow.
2) did I not cook it long enough?  If there's no "zap", should you still keep going until you get semi-transparent paste?
3) will the paste continue to cold process in the bottle, if there is still excess lye?
4) the pH is 10, is it worth adding some borax to neutralize?  It does not seem harsh right now.

Thanks!
Drew


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## jcandleattic (Apr 23, 2020)

Looks like normal handmade LS to me. Commercial soaps have clarifying additives to make them no colored clear. 

The paste doesn't need to be transparent. The LS doesn't even need to be transparent - it's the oils that will determine transparency.  As long as it doesn't zap, it's fine. 

if it's still zappy yes, it will continue to saponify as it sits. 
high pH is the nature of handmade soap. Let it sit to cure for about a week, and it will get milder (even though the pH will most likely remain the same, and yes even LS benefits from a cure) 

Hope this helps


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## shunt2011 (Apr 23, 2020)

Also, you don't need to cook it for long at all.  Here's a great thread on LS making.  






						My Creamy Cocoa/Shea GLS Tutorial
					

My Creamy Cocoa/Shea GLS Tutorial     Recipe to make 1lb. of paste, super-fatted @ 3% on Summerbee Meadow's Advanced Lye Calculator, with a 3:1 water to lye ratio (aka 25% lye concentration):   35% coconut oil (76 degree-type)........... 5.6oz/159g 30% castor...




					www.soapmakingforum.com


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## MrDude (Apr 23, 2020)

Thank you folks, that helps a lot!  And thank you for the thread link, I'm going to try the "no cook" method next time and just leave it overnight to turn into paste.

Drew


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## Zany_in_CO (Apr 24, 2020)

MrDude said:


> *60% olive oil, 30% coconut oil, 10% castor, 2% superfat.*
> I followed instructions gleaned from a few websites/blog posts.  I *cooked it for quite a while*, but the paste *never went fully transparent*.  However, when I tested a bit of paste in distilled water, *it was clear, and there was no "zap"*  I diluted some paste *50/50 with distilled water*, and it seems great - it *foams up beautifully and has a nice texture*.  *However it's yellow*.  Vibrantly shockingly yellow.


Well done, Drew!

1) is this colour normal? <<< Yes.
Is it from using so much olive oil?  <<< Most likely.
2) did I not cook it long enough?  If there's no "zap", should you still keep going until you get semi-transparent paste? <<< That's debatable. Some would; some wouldn't. I would have stopped. Covered the paste and let it sit at least overnight or for a day or two before diluting and to see if becomes more transparent which would indicate full saponification. This is something you will learn with experience.
3) will the paste continue to cold process in the bottle,<<< Most likely
if there is still excess lye? <<< At 2% sf, no zap, and clear LS it's unlikely you have excess lye.
4) the pH is 10, is it worth adding some borax to neutralize?  It does not seem harsh right now.
pH 10 is fine.

I think you did great for your first time. When your wife isn't looking, add a single drop of blue food coloring to the diluted soap... to get a pretty shade of green or red to get a pretty orange color.

As for the 50/50 dilution rate, seeing the clarity of the soap, you were spot on. If at any time it creates a film on top, that's a sign it may need more water. Generally speaking, 100% olive oil LS requires 15-20% soap to 85-80% dilution water. On the other end of the spectrum, 100% coconut oil LS requires 40% soap to 60% dilution water. All other combos fall somewhere in between. When the dilution forms a skin on top, that's an indication you're at the optimum amount of water needed. Add just enough water to incorporate the skin.

Allow both the diluted soap and the paste to sit for 2 weeks to see any changes. While you may be tempted to use it, young LS can be drying.

Keep up the good work!


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## Zany_in_CO (Apr 24, 2020)

Here are 3 links you may find helpful

*LS Hints & Tips*

*LS Tutorials, testing & lowering pH*

*What to Expect from Various Oils in LS*


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## lenarenee (Apr 24, 2020)

It's gorgeous; I make a similar recipe (that originated from Irish Lass and Susie), dilute it until it's nice and thick, and call it Liquid Gold. I don't know how to convince your wife otherwise though.


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