# Container for Lye?



## Roxyjames3 (Aug 25, 2017)

What type of container do you mix your Lye solution in?  I was using a Kerr canning jar because I wanted it to withstand the heat.  Was working great after multiple batches but then on my last batch, the bottom cracked clear off and sent solution everywhere!


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## toxikon (Aug 25, 2017)

Yes, glass (Pyrex or otherwise) and lye do not mix, as you have found out. I hope you didn't get hurt in the process!

Your best bet is plastic or stainless steel. Make sure the plastic has a "5" on the bottom.

Here's a good container overview: http://www.lovinsoap.com/2015/12/how-to-pick-containers-for-making-soap/


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## Roxyjames3 (Aug 25, 2017)

No, I wasn't hurt.  It was cooling outside.  Just had to hose down the patio well.  I wasn't sure plastic could take the temp of the lye but I guess if its thick enough it would.


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## dixiedragon (Aug 25, 2017)

I like a plastic pitcher with a lid. I got mine at the Dollar Tree.


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## Roxyjames3 (Aug 25, 2017)

Yes, I get my other mixing bowls at Dollar Tree!


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## penelopejane (Aug 25, 2017)

Roxyjames3 said:


> No, I wasn't hurt.  It was cooling outside.  Just had to hose down the patio well.  I wasn't sure plastic could take the temp of the lye but I guess if its thick enough it would.



Any plastic with a 2 or 5 in the triangle on the bottom will withstand lye.


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## jcandleattic (Aug 25, 2017)

Roxyjames3 said:


> No, I wasn't hurt.  It was cooling outside.  Just had to hose down the patio well.  I wasn't sure plastic could take the temp of the lye but I guess if its thick enough it would.



Thickness doesn't matter, what matters is if it's rated for chemicals. 
HDPE #5 is the best. 

I masterbatch in a 3gallon plastic HDPE #5 bucket that some of my soaping oils come in then transfer to a cleaned out detergent bottle. 
If I don't use my masterbatch lye, and need to make it at time of soaping, I have a SS bowl I will mix it in.


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## Kittish (Aug 25, 2017)

I've got a huge, 60 oz stainless steel milk foaming pitcher I use for mixing my lye. I figure that's big enough for even the largest batches of soap I'm ever likely to make, plus it's wider at the bottom than the top and is heavy enough that I'm not too horribly worried that I'll manage to knock it over. And the other really, really big benefit (to me) of stainless steel- I can't break it. I'm not sure I could even _dent_ it, it's pretty thick. About the worst I'd be able to manage would be break the handle off, and even that would take some dedicated effort.


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## earlene (Aug 25, 2017)

toxikon said:


> Yes, glass (Pyrex or otherwise) and lye do not mix, as you have found out. I hope you didn't get hurt in the process!
> 
> Your best bet is plastic or stainless steel. Make sure the plastic has a "5" on the bottom.
> 
> Here's a good container overview: http://www.lovinsoap.com/2015/12/how-to-pick-containers-for-making-soap/




I do not agree with all of what is in the above linked article.  Plastic measuring cups at the Dollar Store in my town are NOT made of lye-safe plastic, despite what Lovin' Soap Studio says about it.  I had the same thing happen to me as happened to the OP using plastic measuring cups from Dollar General.

Now I only use plastic that has the #5 recycle symbol for mixing lye.  If there is not #5 in the recycle triangle, I will not mix lye in it.  Since then I have also purchased a stainless steel pitcher for lye solution mixing, but it's not big enough for larger batches.  For larger batches I use tall plastic pitchers.


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## IrishLass (Aug 25, 2017)

I master-batch my lye solution @ a 50% concentration in large enough quantities to last me through several batches/several months of soapmaking, and I mix it in a large plastic Rubbermaid pitcher with recycle code #5 (PP #5). Once it has cooled, I store it a re-purposed laundry detergent bottle made of HDPE #2 with a tight-fitting lid and no-drip spout.


IrishLass


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## jcandleattic (Aug 25, 2017)

IrishLass said:


> I master-batch my lye solution @ a 50% concentration in large enough quantities to last me through several batches/several months of soapmaking, and I mix it in a large plastic Rubbermaid pitcher with recycle code #5 (PP #5). Once it has cooled, I store it a re-purposed laundry detergent bottle made of HDPE #2 with a tight-fitting lid and no-drip spout.
> 
> 
> IrishLass



HI IrishLass! Long time no talk. 

This is exactly what I do as well. My last masterbatch lye batch I did at a 50/50 batch 12lb each water/lye. 
Fit into one of those supersized laundry detergent jugs perfectly.


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## wetshavingproducts (Aug 26, 2017)

18/8 stainless stock pot. 18/8 is important because cheaper stainless can and will react. Test a small area for a possible reaction before mixing a larger batch in an untested pot.

Glass is a bad idea long term. HDPE is only rated for 250 degrees for short time periods. Honestly, stainless is the cheapest best solution I know of. Those Rubbermaid commercial storage containers may be able to withstand the heat, but I'm not willing to test it out. At least for commercial sized master batches. 1 gallon of 50/50 may be okay and cool down quickly enough to not be a problem.


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## Zany_in_CO (Aug 26, 2017)

I make 60 oz batches or smaller. I use re-purposed lye containers to weigh and mix lye solutions... similar to this:


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## earlene (Aug 26, 2017)

Zany_in_CO said:


> I make 60 oz batches or smaller. I use re-purposed lye containers to weigh and mix lye solutions... similar to this:
> View attachment 25762



As long as it has a #5 in the triangle for the recycle code, that's fine.  Don't do this with the Lye Guy containers, as they are coded #1 and would melt with hot lye.  #1 recycle plastics begin to shrink and become misshapen with just plain hot tap water, so I would certainly not mix lye solution in them!

For storage of my masterbatch lye solution, I really like the ED lye bottles, not only are they quite sturdy, they have leak-proof lids AND are already labeled as LYE.


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## anjouwu (Aug 26, 2017)

Restaurants, hospitals and other institutions that cook in volume routinely throw out (or, hopefully, recycle) large heavy duty #5 plastic pails that are wonderful for mixing or masterbatching lye. I found that just asking someone nicely yielded several free containers (with handles and lids!) that should last quite a while.


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## DunbarDesigned (Sep 18, 2017)

*But how long...*

So I too am using a Dollar Tree container #5 PP and its great. I mixed enough solution for two batches of soap. Well...I left it outside to cool and then later brought it inside and put the lid on to soap with "soon". Soon never came and I think its been in the container for 2 days now. Is it still safe/acceptable to use?


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## jcandleattic (Sep 18, 2017)

DunbarDesigned said:


> So I too am using a Dollar Tree container #5 PP and its great. I mixed enough solution for two batches of soap. Well...I left it outside to cool and then later brought it inside and put the lid on to soap with "soon". Soon never came and I think its been in the container for 2 days now. Is it still safe/acceptable to use?



Weigh it. If there has been water/liquid evaporation, replace it. Otherwise it should be just fine to use. I masterbatch my lye all the time, and have had some sit for up to 6 months without any issues.


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## cmzaha (Sep 18, 2017)

IrishLass said:


> I master-batch my lye solution @ a 50% concentration in large enough quantities to last me through several batches/several months of soapmaking, and I mix it in a large plastic Rubbermaid pitcher with recycle code #5 (PP #5). Once it has cooled, I store it a re-purposed laundry detergent bottle made of HDPE #2 with a tight-fitting lid and no-drip spout.
> 
> 
> IrishLass


Exactly what I do depending how much I am masterbatching. If I am masterbatching a gallon or more I use #2 hdpe buckets set in a ice bath in the sink. The rubbermaid pitchers I do not set in an ice bath since they do not hold as much solution


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## DeeAnna (Sep 18, 2017)

jcandleattic said:


> Thickness doesn't matter, what matters is if it's rated for chemicals.



I totally agree that chemical resistance is the first requirement, yes, but sturdiness is nearly as important. You also want a container with enough wall thickness to be fairly rigid and durable. 

For example, many milk containers are made out of HDPE (#2 recycle code) so they have excellent chemical resistance to NaOH or KOH. They are, IMO, too thin and pliable, however, especially if you want to mix lye solution in the container.


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## jcandleattic (Sep 18, 2017)

DeeAnna said:


> I totally agree that chemical resistance is the first requirement, yes, but sturdiness is nearly as important. You also want a container with enough wall thickness to be fairly rigid and durable.
> 
> For example, many milk containers are made out of HDPE (#2 recycle code) so they have excellent chemical resistance to NaOH or KOH. They are, IMO, too thin and pliable, however, especially if you want to mix lye solution in the container.



You are right of course. 
What I meant and should have clarified better, is thickness is not what matters in terms of just picking any ol' bucket/container, that it really needs to be rated for the chemical stability as well. 
Thank you for clarifying that additional point.


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## SoapTrey (Sep 18, 2017)

HDPE 5 is really all you need, but I like to use a 12qt stainless steel pot. I always MB outside in my backyard during the day so I can watch it to make sure nobody/pets/kids come around it. It usually sits outside for a good 5-6hrs before it's cool enough to strain and funnel into HDPE 2 storage containers (properly labeled).


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