# My first soap batch.



## sunset2burst (Dec 13, 2012)

So I made my first batch of soap yesterday.  Still in the process of waiting 24-48 hours after saponification. Cold Process 
40% Crisco with Palm Oil
30% Coconut Oil
20% Olive Oil
10% Castor Oil

16oz of oils TOTAL

Since this was a my first batch and a trial one, I didn't want to use the expensive lemon and tea tree and lavender EO that I bought quite yet. So I looked for an alternative.
This sounds alittle absurd but I found this product, its called Hollywood Beauty Tea Tree Oil Formula 2oz (in the african american beauty products section), I found it walmart for 2 bucks. I put in 1 ounce of this stuff in. * I'm wondering what you guys thought about it?* The HWB Teatree oil ingredients are:

HOLLYWOOD BEAUTY TEA TREE OIL
Ingredients Soybean Oil (Glycine Soja) , Tea Tree Leaf Oil (Melaleuca Alternifolia) , Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil) , Rose Hips Fruit Oil (Rosa Canina) , Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) , Peanut Oil (Arachis Hypogaea) , BHT , Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract , Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) , Sunflower Seed Oil (Helianthus Annuus) , Chamomilla Extract (Recutita Matricaria) , Arnica Montana Flower Extract , Rosemary Leaf Extract (Rosmarinus Officinalis) , Sage Leaf Extract (Salvia Officinalis) , Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract , Burdock Root Extract (Arctium Minus) , Lemon Peel Extract (Citrus Medica Limonum) , Ivy Extract (Hedera Helix) , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Indian Cress Extract (Tropaeolum Majus) , White Nettle Flower Extract (Lamium Album) , Isopropyl Myristate , Fragrance (Parfum) , Phenoxyethanol , Methyl Paraben , Isopropylparaben , Isobutylparaben , Butylparaben , D&C Yellow #11 (CI 47000)

I have my degree in Nutrition and Dietetics, and looking at most of the ingredients, I saw that many if not all were good for skin and hair.  *What are your guys thoughts on this?*

Once I perfect my soap skills, I'll make my second or (whenever) batch using 1oz of tea tree, lemon, and lavender).

Few questions:

*What are your thoughts on the Oils I used?* I used the formula thing online and all of the scores were within range and a good number, hardness, conditioning, bubbly, etc.
*
What oils should I use for a nice hard bar of soap, that is white and can be dyed easily?* My first batch turned a pumpkin orange color.  I swirled alittle red on top to make it look decent lol.

*Is it ok to use different types of oils as I did or should I stick with one or two?*

I'm really interested in making a good face soap for acne and acne scars, antiseptic, plus moisturizing, reducing oil, etc. Hence Lavender, Lemon, Tea Tree. *Any tips on this?
*
*What are common inexpensive ways to mold soap?*

In cold process last night both the oil and lye water were 110.  I used a hand mixer and took about 10mins to trace.  Once it did trace it thickend quickly and I poured it into a glass meatloaf pan. * ANy tips on temperature?*

*When is the best time to add EOs? *

Thanks so much for your time!


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## Seifenblasen (Dec 13, 2012)

> HOLLYWOOD BEAUTY TEA TREE OIL
> Ingredients Soybean Oil (Glycine Soja) , Tea Tree Leaf Oil (Melaleuca Alternifolia) , Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil) , Rose Hips Fruit Oil (Rosa Canina) , Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) , Peanut Oil (Arachis Hypogaea) , BHT , Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract , Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) , Sunflower Seed Oil (Helianthus Annuus) , Chamomilla Extract (Recutita Matricaria) , Arnica Montana Flower Extract , Rosemary Leaf Extract (Rosmarinus Officinalis) , Sage Leaf Extract (Salvia Officinalis) , Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract , Burdock Root Extract (Arctium Minus) , Lemon Peel Extract (Citrus Medica Limonum) , Ivy Extract (Hedera Helix) , Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract , Indian Cress Extract (Tropaeolum Majus) , White Nettle Flower Extract (Lamium Album) , Isopropyl Myristate , Fragrance (Parfum) , Phenoxyethanol , Methyl Paraben , Isopropylparaben , Isobutylparaben , Butylparaben , D&C Yellow #11 (CI 47000)


I really don't know anything about essential oil, but I have taken a few chemistry courses while in graduate school and suspect some of the stuff in this "beauty oil" may be the reason that your batch turned pumpkin color.

My very first batch was scent-free.  Some of the fragrance oils and essential oils can change the color in your soap.  A suggestion is to make a few simple batches using "proven ingredients" (i.e. fragrance oils formulated to be used in soap, or essential oils) before becoming more creative.


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## sunset2burst (Dec 13, 2012)

Right on! My next batch will be just a simple oil and lye body soap. I'm just wondering if that's safe for daily body use.  Thanks for the reply!


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## Seifenblasen (Dec 13, 2012)

As long as you run your formula through a calculator to make sure it is not lye heavy (i.e. have more lye than there is oil to react with), and make sure that the reaction is complete, it is safe to use everyday.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with experimentation and playing with different ingredients.  Most scientists, however, research the hypothesis, do an enormous work on paper before running the experiment.  It helps to make the experiment safer (in soap making, you don't want to use ingredients that make your soap mixture erupt), and saves money as you will have fewer un-salvageable batches.


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## DragonQueenHHP (Dec 13, 2012)

sunset2burst said:
			
		

> So I made my first batch of soap yesterday.  Still in the process of waiting 24-48 hours after saponification. Cold Process
> 40% Crisco with Palm Oil
> 30% Coconut Oil
> 20% Olive Oil
> ...


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## sunset2burst (Dec 13, 2012)

Thanks so much Dragon Queen.


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## judymoody (Dec 13, 2012)

Congratulations on your first batch!

The "beauty oil" looks to be mostly carrier oil (soy and safflower) with tea tree EO and trace quantities of lots of good additives plus a paraben-based preservative.  Most of the extracts are unlikely to survive the saponification process although the tea tree scent should come through at some level.

I recommend that you get something other than a glass pan for your soap as it can be hard to unmold.  If your soap sticks, you can put it in the freezer for a couple of hours.  You can also grease it with mineral oil which does not saponify.  I prefer silicone molds for easy unmolding or you can line wood or plastic molds with freezer paper.

I soap at 110-120 and generally add my fragrance at emulsion or trace.

I also agree with reducing the castor to 5%.


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## DragonQueenHHP (Dec 13, 2012)

judymoody said:
			
		

> I recommend that you get something other than a glass pan for your soap as it can be hard to unmold.  If your soap sticks, you can put it in the freezer for a couple of hours.  You can also grease it with mineral oil which does not saponify.  I prefer silicone molds for easy unmolding or you can line wood or plastic molds with freezer paper.
> 
> I soap at 110-120 and generally add my fragrance at emulsion or trace.
> 
> I also agree with reducing the castor to 5%.



I line my molds with wax paper


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## sunset2burst (Dec 14, 2012)

Thanks for the tip about the glass. I tried to get it out today...fail...It's still semi soft so I'll wait  24 more hours and then stick that baby in the freezer like you said.  Will definitely make a soap mold soon or buy some molds. Thanks guys!


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## Lindy (Dec 16, 2012)

I use freezer paper to line my moulds and it works a treat...


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## Pepsi Girl (Dec 16, 2012)

I use freezer paper to line molds but lately I tried heat resistant mylar and I liked that a lot.  Parchment paper is also good or you can just lightly grease with mineral oil or petroleum jelly.

It is possible your soap will lightened as it cures.  I did notice there is Yellow dye in your "beauty oil".


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## verotxu (Dec 22, 2012)

Hi!

I read in a book that soap bars for facial bars should have a the hardness value below 34 so I think you are ok or otherwise I would raise the olive content a bit. What do the others think?

Cheers!


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