# facial cleanser scrub recipes? totally stumped



## paillo (Oct 1, 2010)

i have tried and tried to make a facial cleanser for oily skin that i like -- totally without success. and although i've scoured the web i haven't found much. i want something with a shelf life -- not something that has to be mixed fresh every day. 

this one from Goatie at Skin Care Talk was close, but not quite there:

2 oz. Aloe vera gel
1 tsp. Sweet almond Oil
1 tsp. glycerin
1/2 tsp grapefruit seed extract (or Vit. E oil - same amount)
4 drops Sandalwood essential oil
2 drops Lavender essential oil
Almond seeds if want to exfoliate

i don't remember where i found this recipe for an herbal facial scrub, but i think some of the ingredients would be nice to add to a basic cleanser:

Colloidal Oatmeal
French Green Clay
Rose Petals Powder
Comfrey Leaves Powdered
Lavender Buds Powder
Lemongrass Powdered

anyone have any ingredients /recipes to share?


----------



## BakingNana (Nov 1, 2010)

Hi paillo!  I know this post is a few weeks old, but the ground herbs in the list would irritate the dickens out of my skin.  I have rosacea and until recently I also had oily skin.  Believe it or not, I've been using the sugar scrubs we've all been making like crazy from Mayren's recipe on my face and I'm lovin' it.  I use the sugar scrub made with coconut oil at night to remove makeup and cleanse.  I never thought about adding much else to them, but may add some clay to see how it works.  Since nearly anything botanical added to soap or cleansers lights my face on fire, I'm sort of shocked that the sugar is working so well.  Have you come up with a facial scrub since this post?


----------



## Lindy (Nov 1, 2010)

I'll use either my cream soap or a cream and add sugar to it.  Sometimes you can add Jojoba beads too and they work well.


----------



## Hazel (Nov 1, 2010)

paillo,

Have you tried substituting the sweet almond oil with a drier, lighter oil like grapeseed or hazelnut? Also, castor can be a little drying but it's conditioning.

Also, I agree with BakingNana and Lindy - I love sugar scrubs on my face but my face is not normally oily. It's usually dry but over the summer I was wearing suntan lotion everyday and I started having problems with acne. The sugar scrubs really helped me.

Some other EOs that you could use that are recommended for oily skin are lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, chamomile, orange. patchouli and rosemary.


----------



## nattynoo (Nov 1, 2010)

I've been using/making a more solid style cleanser for my face lately.
Almond meal
Cocoa butter
Kaolin clay 
glycerin
works a treat...messy but awesome.


----------



## Lindy (Nov 1, 2010)

If you're going to use citrus EO's you need to put a warning on the label to not use before going in the sun for 12 hours.  Citrus EO's create photosensitivity which can cause extreme sunburns to very little exposure.


----------



## carebear (Nov 2, 2010)

we're not talking leave on products here....


----------



## Lindy (Nov 2, 2010)

carebear said:
			
		

> we're not talking leave on products here....



When you are using a scrub you're not putting it on and washing it straight off, you working with it to do cleanse.  That means that stuff gets absorbed which means that any EO's you use are going to penetrate the skin.  The EO's recommended for the face are lavender, tea tree, sandalwood, rose, rosemary, rose geranium and manuka.  Citrus EO's are not recommended for the reasons I already have given.


----------



## carebear (Nov 2, 2010)

oh.  I see.  

so if I make a soap that I kinda work into my skin before rinsing off then I can't use citrus EOs in that either?  as opposed to a soap that I would rinse off as soon as it contacts the skin.

and are those really the only EOs one can use on one's face?


----------



## Hazel (Nov 2, 2010)

I didn't realize paillo was making a product to sell. I thought it was for personal use. Okay, then maybe the citrus ones aren't a good suggestion. However, I used citrus EOs in my night creams and I personally love them. My skin definitely looks brighter after using the cream over a period of time.


----------



## Lindy (Nov 2, 2010)

Carebear I know (we've had this discussion way too often) that you don't believe that the skin absorbs as much as it does - however if you take a look at what pharmacology is working on your would realize that this is starting to be considered the best method of  delivering meds (http://www.nae.edu/Publications/Bri...centDevelopmentinNeedle-FreeDrugDelivery.aspx - http://books.google.ca/books?id=PaO...&resnum=7&ved=0CDQQ6AEwBg#v=onepage&q&f=false). That would be because the skin does absorb.  So from all that I have been taught as a Clinical Aromatherapist no citrus EO should be used on skin that is going to be exposed to direct sunlight in the next 12 hours.  That does mean wash-off too quite frankly because what is it we love about our soaps and cleansers?  It is because we leave behind a lotiony feel on our skin rather than the squeeky clean you get with a commercial bar of soap.  That means there is product is left behind after you rinse.  No-one just dabs their fingers into the soap and rinses it off just as fast as they humanly can, even non-soap addict wash their hands thoroughly.

So no - Citrus EO's whould not be used on the face or any other parts of you that is going to be exposed to sunlight.  

That list of EO's are the ones recommended for the face, there are others but they sure don'gt include any of the citrus EO's

Hazel although they're not recommended for the face if you are using them at night as part of a night cream then you are lowering one of the risks.  The other risks are they are skin sensitizers.  I figure that when I am helping someone to learn something then I should be teaching best practices so even if they are not selling today, whould they choose to later on then they already have the knowledge they need other than the do want you want formulae which can work if it is only for you and your skin likes it.

Cheers


----------



## Hazel (Nov 2, 2010)

Lindy,

That's a good point about teaching best practices. Of course, I made an assumption on what paillo was doing based on what I'm doing which is products for myself, family and friends. 

Thanks for the instructional posts. I've learned a lot from you and others on this forum.


----------



## Lindy (Nov 2, 2010)

Hazel no problem - I'm always glad to help where I can.  I've always been one of those "If you're going to do it, you may as well do it right from the start".

Cheers


----------



## Tabitha (Nov 2, 2010)

Lindy said:
			
		

> Carebear I know (we've had this discussion way too often) that you don't believe that the skin absorbs as much as it does - however if you take a look at what pharmacology is working on your would realize that this is starting to be considered the best method of  delivering meds (http://www.nae.edu/Publications/Bri...centDevelopmentinNeedle-FreeDrugDelivery.aspx - http://books.google.ca/books?id=PaO...&resnum=7&ved=0CDQQ6AEwBg#v=onepage&q&f=false). That would be because the skin does absorb.  So from all that I have been taught as a Clinical Aromatherapist no citrus EO should be used on skin that is going to be exposed to direct sunlight in the next 12 hours.  That does mean wash-off too quite frankly because what is it we love about our soaps and cleansers?  It is because we leave behind a lotiony feel on our skin rather than the squeeky clean you get with a commercial bar of soap.  That means there is product is left behind after you rinse.  No-one just dabs their fingers into the soap and rinses it off just as fast as they humanly can, even non-soap addict wash their hands thoroughly.
> 
> So no - Citrus EO's whould not be used on the face or any other parts of you that is going to be exposed to sunlight.
> 
> ...



I am not an EO expert, nor do I play one on TV  :wink: . I have, however, worked (off and on) in the mediacl field for nearly 30  years. Drugs that are absorbed through the skin come in the form of a patch and are left in place for 24 hours, so while I would not place orange EO on a patch and attach it in an airtight fashio directly to my skin, I do believe brief encounters are safe. It's all about moderation, as most things are.


----------



## Tabitha (Nov 2, 2010)

Kinda funny,  I just did a quick search about the absorption of orange EO into the skin & found a doctor selling  orange eo skin products "Sweet orange oil is considered an excellent skin tonic and supports rejuvenation, so it has an important role to play in Mercola Skin Care." I did not read the whole page, but it just goes to show for every study that proves one thing, there is a study that proves the opposite.

http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/s ... clnk&gl=us


----------



## PrairieCraft (Nov 2, 2010)

Even if you do put neat citrus eo on your skin and go into the sun immediately your skin will darken to a fairly dark brown but it doesn't actually get burned as in sunburn.  Like there is no pain or burning or any sensation involved it just discolors the skin.  So it can be ugly but it's not going to hurt you.


----------



## Lindy (Nov 2, 2010)

Tabitha yes everything in moderation, the link you've shared is by a doctor who is selling his product, not producing any studies.

I can only share with you what is taught in aromatherapy.  This is common knowledge and common practise in aromatherapy, everyone that are trained in essential oils will tell you the same thing - they are photosensitizers and they are skin irritants.  Would you rather that people just say sure - go ahead and play even though they know that it is not in your best interest to be using that in your product for that application, or do you want people to feel free to share what they have spent money learning?

The other transdermal methods of use are creams and ointments.  Is there less risk in a wash-off product, yes of course, but with a facial scrub that you are going to work into the skin you are increasing that exposure.


----------



## Hazel (Nov 2, 2010)

Lindy,

When I did my research on EOs for a body wrap, I found in Patricia Davis’ book "Aromatherapy: An A - Z Guide" where she said that grapefruit isn’t a photosensitizer (I think it was on page 134). 

Was grapefruit EO mentioned in your course? Or have you heard this? I use grapefruit in a lot of my creams and lotions.

 paillo - I'm sorry for hijacking your thread.


----------



## Deda (Nov 2, 2010)

Lindy?  Did you go to a real school, or take an online course?


----------



## Lindy (Nov 2, 2010)

If your talking about grapefruit seed extract it's not a sensitizer but the actual essential oil is.  They're actually 2 totally different things.  I'll have to get that book too...  :?   My library is constantly growing, there is just so much to learn on this.

Pailo I also apologize for the hijack.


----------



## dagmar88 (Nov 2, 2010)

Hazel said:
			
		

> Lindy,
> 
> When I did my research on EOs for a body wrap, I found in Patricia Davis’ book "Aromatherapy: An A - Z Guide" where she said that grapefruit isn’t a photosensitizer (I think it was on page 134).
> 
> ...



As far as I know, 
Citrus EO's
-photosynthetic: Lime , Bergamot, Tangerine, Lemon, Sweet Orange, 
-somewhat photosynthetic: (red) Mandarin
-are likely to cause sensitivities when used undiluted (duh): Neroli, Grapefruit
-do not use right before sunbathing: Petitgrain


----------



## Healinya (Nov 2, 2010)

We should all be applying spf before going outside anyway. I have learned (from many hours of live classes and that I am still paying the student loans on) that citrus is a photosensitizer... but so is a freshly exfoliated face... and so are a lot of medications and other things... again, spf is a must!! I myself, have mixed ascorbic acid in water and applied it to my freshly steamed and exfoliated face and LOVED how 'fresh' my face felt a few days later... again - spf is a must!

Everyone's different, and everyone's skin has different sensitzers... did I mention how important spf is lol... 15 is awesome. For what it's worth.. I was not trained to be an Aromatherapist, but I was trained in skin care and other allied health modalities where essential oils were discussed from several different perspectives... If you google ingredient+photosensitivity, you'll have lots of great reading.

My opinion is that citrus/vitamin c is amazing in leave on skin products... just use them at night because sunscreen doesn't last long... and for rinse off products - I don't think the vit c cause much more sensitization, but again, SPF should always be worn (on the skin you want to keep anyway and very fair-skinned people do need to take extra caution.

If you ever want to test if the vit c is still active in your products (which it probably isn't anyway since it all just about oxidizes by the 4th time you take the cap off) is to take two slices of apple, and apply a small amount of the product to one of them... then wait and see if they brown at the same time... if the one you put product on stays white longer, then the vit c is still (somewhat) alive

Well, that's my two cents anyway.. sorry I'm a rambler


----------



## carebear (Nov 2, 2010)

Lindy said:
			
		

> Carebear I know (we've had this discussion way too often) that you don't believe that the skin absorbs as much as it does - however if you take a look at what pharmacology is working on your would realize that this is starting to be considered the best method of  delivering meds (http://www.nae.edu/Publications/Bri...centDevelopmentinNeedle-FreeDrugDelivery.aspx - http://books.google.ca/books?id=PaO...&resnum=7&ved=0CDQQ6AEwBg#v=onepage&q&f=false). That would be because the skin does absorb.



um, thanks for the cheers and all, but it is only the "best" method of delivering meds if the right vehicle is involved.  surely you aren't one of those folks who believes that a certain percent of anything on your skin is absorbed...  else I could save myself a lot of trips to the dentist and just rub chocolate on my skin, and I'd be extremely overweight from all the lotion I've applied.  Not to mention that a great deal of my physical makeup would now be cotton and (gasp) polyester...

I'm well aware that some stuff is absorbed into the skin. 

We could go back and forth and back and forth on this - You imply that we already have tho I don't recall that.  But that doesn't make you right.

Heck, your "source" even says that skin application is best for local delivery of an active because it minimizes systemic exposure.    

SOME things are absorbed, and these can be used as vehicles in certain cases, to help actives pass through the skin - thus the transdermal patches.

Back to your topic, I'm sure you are well aware that the method of extraction of the EOs is one variable in the phototoxicity, as I'm sure you have heard of bergotaphene(sp) free EOs as well.  Or perhaps not.

Where was that certification from?


----------



## soapbuddy (Nov 2, 2010)

I don't see a preservative with the one with aloe? Is the aloe gel store bought? I see you list grapefruit seed extract, but that's not a preservative.


----------



## Lindy (Nov 2, 2010)

thank you so much for inviting me to get back into it with you.  We come from two very different  sides of the fence on this topic.  I am not a "right" fighter so I'm not prepared to take this further with you, but please feel free to carry on without me.....


----------



## carebear (Nov 2, 2010)

You are very welcome, Lindye.  But I think there is no need.  My point's been supported quite well.


----------



## Tabitha (Nov 2, 2010)

I am going to go ahead and lock this thread. When I have time to waste I will come back in & delete any posts or comments that are not helpful- in my opinion-  to the original post. I will unlock it again at that time


----------

