# Bergamot & Patchouli



## tractorgrl (Nov 20, 2017)

I'm working on perfecting a cold process soap with bergamot and patchouli EO. I've made this a few times, and while I like it, it is overwhelmingly patchouli and little to no bergamot.

The total wt. of my oils is 40 oz. With EO at 0.5 oz/lb soap, this is approximately 1.25 oz EO/batch - 0.25 oz bergamot, 1 oz patchouli.

Using Brambleberry's calc, I'm coming up with 2.5 oz patchouli and 0.44 oz bergamot - 2.94 oz total EO for my whole batch?! This seems like way too much to me, unless I'm completely doing this wrong. Or since the bergamot is the limiting EO, do I use 0.44 oz EO total for my whole batch?

With either of these calculations, I feel like the patchouli would overpower the bergamot, but I also know bergamot can cause photosensitivity so maybe I can't go any higher with it??? Any suggestions?


----------



## Dahila (Nov 20, 2017)

Usually is 3% of oil weight


----------



## cmzaha (Nov 20, 2017)

I use 1 oz ppo and would split it with bergamot, patchouli and litsea, or go your high on the bergamot and lighter on the patchouli. Patch is going to over-ride most scents. a 1 per lb of oil which you can set in the calculators is not going to hurt anyone unless someone is allergic to the EO. Unlike Dahlia I use 6-7% of oil weight almost accross the board of all my eo's and fo's unless it is a hot spice type such as cinnamon


----------



## HowieRoll (Nov 20, 2017)

Here is an EO Calculator you might find to be a useful tool:

http://www.eocalc.com/enter-your-own-blend/

(also, the Browse Essential Oil Blends & Search Blends tabs at the top are full of scent blend suggestions)


----------



## tractorgrl (Nov 20, 2017)

HowieRoll said:


> Here is an EO Calculator you might find to be a useful tool:
> 
> http://www.eocalc.com/enter-your-own-blend/
> 
> (also, the Browse Essential Oil Blends & Search Blends tabs at the top are full of scent blend suggestions)



Oh thank you! I really like this and haven't seen it before. I think I'm going to try a 3% usage rate with 1 part patchouli to 3 parts bergamot and play around with it from there.


----------



## cmzaha (Nov 20, 2017)

I would still go with 6% if I were you. Remember you are using it in a wash-off and if you are giving these away people tend to like strong fragrance, and bergamot like any citrus tends to fade quickly. But of course it is your call


----------



## Saranac (Nov 20, 2017)

IME, bergamot EO doesn't stick in CP.  I make a Bergamot, Fir, and Patchouli blend and when using EO, all that is left after cure is Patchouli. I now use bergamot (and fir) FO.

EDITED:  There is also Bergaptene free bergamot EO if you're set on only using EO; as a result, it doesn't have to be the "limiting EO".


----------



## cmzaha (Nov 20, 2017)

Saranac said:


> IME, bergamot EO doesn't stick in CP.  I make a Bergamot, Fir, and Patchouli blend and when using EO, all that is left after cure is Patchouli. I now use bergamot (and fir) FO.
> 
> EDITED:  There is also Bergaptene free bergamot EO if you're set on only using EO; as a result, it doesn't have to be the "limiting EO".


Liberty Naturals usually carries the bergaptene free


----------



## Saranac (Nov 20, 2017)

cmzaha said:


> Liberty Naturals usually carries the bergaptene free



Thank you!  As do New Directions and Camden-Grey (I've purchased from both).


----------



## Heika (Nov 22, 2017)

I love that essential oil blend, but I also use litsea mixed in with it to help anchor. When I use bergamot in soap, I mix my eos with a bit of clay a few hours before and allow the clay to absorb them and then add that to the soap. It seems to improve the scent retention.


----------



## gloopygloop (Nov 22, 2017)

cmzaha said:


> I would still go with 6% if I were you. Remember you are using it in a wash-off and if you are giving these away people tend to like strong fragrance, and bergamot like any citrus tends to fade quickly. But of course it is your call



I would never use that much EO or FO, there is a huge possibility of sensitisation. here in the UK we are only allowed 2% and there is a reason. I find it is enough, sometimes less is more with some scents. No point having a strong scent if you have a red itchy rash all over.


----------



## penelopejane (Nov 23, 2017)

gloopygloop said:


> I would never use that much EO or FO, there is a huge possibility of sensitisation. here in the UK we are only allowed 2% and there is a reason. I find it is enough, sometimes less is more with some scents. No point having a strong scent if you have a red itchy rash all over.



You must have sensational FOs. If you are talking about batter weight for 2% 1.7 kg (4 lb)  that is 35g (1.1 oz)  OR oil weight 2.6kg (6 lb) 50g (1.7oz). 

Either way you'd never smell any scent with any scent that I've found in Australia (including BB)


----------



## cmzaha (Nov 23, 2017)

gloopygloop said:


> I would never use that much EO or FO, there is a huge possibility of sensitisation. here in the UK we are only allowed 2% and there is a reason. I find it is enough, sometimes less is more with some scents. No point having a strong scent if you have a red itchy rash all over.


Fortunately I live in the US and I have never had a complaint. Yes, it can sensitize in a leave on product, but in soap it goes down the drain and is rinsed off, and I use very few EO's in lotions. When FDA says I can't use it at 6% then I will not. In 7 years of selling, knock on wood, I have only had one customer with a problem and it was because she simply could not use lye soap. It was not just my soaps that affected her, it was any handmade soap.


----------



## gloopygloop (Nov 24, 2017)

penelopejane said:


> You must have sensational FOs. If you are talking about batter weight for 2% 1.7 kg (4 lb)  that is 35g (1.1 oz)  OR oil weight 2.6kg (6 lb) 50g (1.7oz).
> 
> Either way you'd never smell any scent with any scent that I've found in Australia (including BB)



In Europe we have very nice smelling soaps, they have to legally be made according to the restrictions stated on ones safety assessment and the safety assessment is regulated by the European laws governing bath, body and cosmetic products. 2% is maximum level for Eos & FOs it used to be 3% but this changed along with many of the other regulations a couple of years ago. I dont sell but I do make according to the rules set out by the EU. Our soaps smell perfectly acceptable, they after all for cleansing, soap is not a bar of perfume we have those type of products separately. Soap is to gently please while having a nice aroma which our soaps in the EU do if made correctly. These rules have been worked out by cosmetic chemists by testing the aroma chemicals for sensitisation and who are we to go against that! also if a soaper goes against what is written on the safety assessment then they invalidate their product insurance.

It is quite possible I am sure to continue to use high amounts of Eos and FOs without any problem, but the risk is certainly there and who wants the risk!

These are not as you realise my personal decisions but as laid out by the Eurpean rules which have to be adhered to, there are similar ones in place for candles also. But I use no more than 2% in my soaps and they smell perfectly nice and quite strong enough, they are no striker in the EU than FOs in the US or any other country, actually US FOs used to be stronger than ours in the UK but that has changed now and I think they are the same.


----------

