# Where to start?



## Luv2Soap (Mar 24, 2015)

While I'm waiting on my first two batches of CP soaps to cure, I decided that I'd like to give M&P a try. I've been reading through all the posts here and really appreciate everyone's knowledge! That being said, where would you start? Is there a good tutorial that I can watch to begin learning about M&P?


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## Cindy2428 (Mar 24, 2015)

SoapqueenTV has a great multi-part series on You-tube. This would be the best place to start.
Arianne from La Fil de La Mer is a French Canadian soaper who does a wonderful job with MP - she doesn't do tutorials per se, but she has been a great inspiration for me.
805Soaps is another resource for MP


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## Seawolfe (Mar 24, 2015)

I like this Soap Queen tutorial: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/melt-and-pour-soap/free-beginners-guide-to-soapmaking-melt-and-pour/ 

From what I hear, Bramble Berry's bases are good quality. And I just learned that you can use food color in M&P soap with decent results!

I just made some clear melt and pour base last week, and I am a boggle with the possibilities. I think Im going to first experiment with natural colorants in gradients in my cube molds. If they turn out I will keep some, and use some as embeds in a CP soap.


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## Luv2Soap (Mar 24, 2015)

I've read some good things too about Brambleberry and about WSP bases too. I have been looking at TONS of other people's creations and I'm flabbergasted by the design possibilities! So cool!  Does M&P have a shelf life? I'm sure it does, nearly everything does. However, if I start making Christmas soaps in July, are they going to go bad or lose a ton of color/fragrance?


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## Dorymae (Mar 24, 2015)

They should be fine since with M&P you wrap them right away. It helps them keep their scent longer (that isn't the reason just a benefit!).  Just remember to keep them out of the sun as some colorants can become washed out when exposed to sunlight.


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## Luv2Soap (Mar 24, 2015)

Dorymae said:


> They should be fine since with M&P you wrap them right away. It helps them keep their scent longer (that isn't the reason just a benefit!). Just remember to keep them out of the sun as some colorants can become washed out when exposed to sunlight.


 
AWESOME!!!! I was hoping this was the answer  I have a ton of ideas for Halloween, Christmas and Thanksgiving right now and was hoping I wouldn't have to wait to try them out. Thanks!!


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## lsg (Mar 24, 2015)

Here is a book that I love:  Soapmaking the Natural Way: 45 Melt-and-Pour Recipes Using Herbs, Flowers & Essential


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## not_ally (Mar 24, 2015)

I think it is much harder to go wrong w/MP than CP as long as you use a good base. I like SFIC, which I buy from Wisteria Lane in 50 lb logs (cheaper that way), although BB sells it as well.  

I would respectfully disagree a little bit about shelf life of MP soaps, but it might be b/c I use the extra hard clear base from WL, which contains less glycerin, I think.  I find that *my* MP soap is better if used in 6 mos or so, otherwise it gets harder, less pretty and generally not as nice b/c of the glycerin loss, even when wrapped.   

It is good when CP loses water/ages because you want the hardness and the curing, to a greater extent.  W/MP, since there the saponification has already occured when you make it, I think bars are best almost as soon as they are made and then after a much quicker period of time lose the bloom, some.


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## Luv2Soap (Mar 24, 2015)

lsg said:


> Here is a book that I love: Soapmaking the Natural Way: 45 Melt-and-Pour Recipes Using Herbs, Flowers & Essential


 
You're awesome! I'll definitely look into getting this one - thank you!


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## Luv2Soap (Apr 1, 2015)

I ordered the sampler pack from Brambleberry and it's coming today. I'm excited to give it a try!


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## Seawolfe (Apr 1, 2015)

Id love to see what you make, I've been fiddling with natural colorants and there is definitely a learning curve!

The things I have learned so far when working on 2 oz bars at a time:
1) melt in a gentle double boiler rather than the microwave or the last bit gets too thick (I have a pyrex 2 cup measure on rings in a pan of water)
2) wait at least 5 minutes between layers or it wont be clean - no cheating!
3) a few drops of water can keep the later layers from getting too thick
4) natural colorants do indeedy work when mixed with glycerin and added by drops, but don't mix air in
5) for goodness sake glopping the last bit into the mold doesnt help anything and looks like a road accident
6) dont get too crazy with the alcohol spraying between layers or your soap will be sticky


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## Luv2Soap (Apr 1, 2015)

LOL Seawolf - #5 almost made me spit my coffee  Thanks for the tips!


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## cmzaha (Apr 1, 2015)

Dorymae said:


> They should be fine since with M&P you wrap them right away. It helps them keep their scent longer (that isn't the reason just a benefit!). Just remember to keep them out of the sun as some colorants can become washed out when exposed to sunlight.


Sun will also melt M&P. I think it is good to start now since m&p has quite a learning curve. I simply cannot work with the blasted stuff, but my daughter does great m&p


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