# Sterlization



## Guest (Aug 4, 2007)

How do you sterlize your equipment before making bath and body products... 

I use soap and water, and then bleach bath.. 

How about you?


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## soapbuddy (Aug 4, 2007)

I don't think you can sterilize your equipment unless you have a lab.
You can sanitize though.  

Irena


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## Guest (Aug 4, 2007)

lol, yeah.... I guess thats what I call myself doing... so how do you do your Irena.


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## soapbuddy (Aug 4, 2007)

I use hot water with dilluted bleach and soap, followed by a spritz of alcohol.

Irena


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## Soapmaker Man (Aug 8, 2007)

Like Irena does.  I only use stainless steel for all my lotion, creams, body butters.  I wash in a warm soapy anti-bacterial soap bath.  I rinse with a diluted bleach solution and air dry in the dishwasher.  Before using, I spritz with 91% alcohol and let dry before mixing.  

Paul.... :wink:


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## canyonhorses (Oct 30, 2007)

Do you use the same pant pots for your soap?
Paula


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## Soapmaker Man (Oct 30, 2007)

canyonhorses said:
			
		

> Do you use the same pant pots for your soap?
> Paula



No, I use a plastic container to mix my soap in.  I would not have any issues using the same stainless steel pots for both soaping and lotions and creams though.   I would make a loaf of bread in the same stainless steel bowl I used for soap making after I wash it and sanitize it like I do.  I know how well I wash, bleach rinse and final sanitize my stainless steel and other lotion utensils.  They use hydrogen peroxide (lye) in lotions as a pH reducer; I don't but commercial lotion makers do.  A cleaned and bleached and alcohol spritzed stainless steel container is absolutely fine in my opinion. 8) 


Paul.... :wink:


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## canyonhorses (Oct 30, 2007)

Thanks
Paula


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## itsmeroro (Jan 3, 2008)

*Info about Sanitation and Disinfection*

I thought I could lend some helpful knowledge here (I am licensed in the beauty industry and we have to have an extensive knowledge of this stuff -  regarding sanitation and disinfection.)  

Yes, HOT anti bacterial soapy washing is effective - Its better - if you can use the wash and steam sanitize cycle in your dishwasher.  The steam actually sterilizes (until you open your dishwasher) your implements.  

If you do like to wash by hand, then be sure to dry with paper towels (regular towels can spread germs), and then use a hospital grade disinfectant - QUATS - in a spray bottle for your surfaces.  Some disinfectants such as Alcohol or bleach must be sprayed and let sit on the surface for a certain amount of time to be effective - Alcohol is 30 minutes wet contact (!!) bleach is a min. of 15 minutes.  

Most alcohol based "sanitizers" are innefective as the contact time to kill germs cannot be met before the product has evaporated - a great sales scheme.

Hope this helps.  Cheers!  roro


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## pink-north (Jan 15, 2008)

Thanks for the info itsmeroro. I do, however, have a question for you regarding the diswasher method. With steam being so HOT, wouldn't that melt the plastic of say a lip balm tube or a lotion bottle. If not competely melt, but seriously disfigure/distort?


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## itsmeroro (Jan 16, 2008)

pink-north said:
			
		

> Thanks for the info itsmeroro. I do, however, have a question for you regarding the diswasher method. With steam being so HOT, wouldn't that melt the plastic of say a lip balm tube or a lotion bottle. If not competely melt, but seriously disfigure/distort?



lol -  That is a good question...  I am sure it could...  I just got a new dishwasher -- and it does fine for the top rack... however, you might want to check with the company which you purchase from to see if the plastics are dishwasher safe - or test a few items out to see what happens.

I would reccomed careful handling these items with sterile gloves - improper handling - touching or the rims and inners can contaminate containers while filling (I catch myself sometimes).  Remember, the moment you open the dishwasher, your items are not "sterile" but pretty close without a lab - if they are dry, handle properly and store in fresh zipper bags.  

I remember a product which could be sprayed as a QUATS on food grade items - called Oxine, which kills all sorts of nasty germs.  You could also fill a tub (with a cover) with Oxine and soak your plastics for a minimum of 10 minutes.  Remove and air dry - then store appropiately.  Keep the tub or bin filled and change the Oxine weekly or if debris is in it.

  good luck!


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## pink-north (Jan 17, 2008)

This may seem like a dumb question   , but what is a QUATS and where would I find Oxine?


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## itsmeroro (Jan 18, 2008)

*Sorry SUPER LONG -- but good info here!*



			
				pink-north said:
			
		

> This may seem like a dumb question   , but what is a QUATS and where would I find Oxine?



No - not a dumb question .. its technical talk for hospital grade disinfectant...  here is some really technical mumbo jumbo about QUATS -- 



Quaternary ammonium cations, also known as quats, are positively charged polyatomic ions of the structure NR4+ with R being alkyl groups. Unlike the ammonium ion NH4+ itself and primary, secondary, or tertiary ammonium cations, the quaternary ammonium cations are permanently charged, independent of the pH of their solution. Quaternary ammonium cations are synthesized by complete alkylation of ammonia or other amines. For possible synthesis route, see amines.

Quaternary ammonium salts or quaternary ammonium compounds (called quaternary amines in oilfield parlance) are salts of quaternary ammonium cations with an anion. They are used as disinfectants, surfactants, fabric softeners, and as antistatic agents (e.g. in shampoo). In liquid fabric softeners, the chloride salts are often used. In dryer anticling strips, the sulfate salts are often used. This is also a common ingredient in many spermicidal jellies.

In organic chemistry, quaternary ammonium salts are used as phase transfer catalysts for reactions involving immiscible solvent systems, such as the synthesis of dichlorocarbenes with chloroform and sodium hydroxide.

The synthesis of this cation from ammonia is referred to as quaternization.

Through exhaustive methylation, or the Hofmann Elimination process, a quarternary ammonium iodide salt is formed. The alpha-carbon (relative to the nitrogen) is deprotonated once by a hydroxide anion from H2O and the electrons form an alkene. Subsequently, the electrons from the carbon-nitrogen bond are pushed onto the nitrogen. This sets up a tertiary amine as the leaving group.[1]


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  Oxine - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Oxine®(AH)  utilizes chlorine dioxide chemistry which is
recognizedas one of the most potent weapons in the rapid elimination of pathogens and the biofilms that protect them. It produces ultra high activity which is conclusively documented in a comparison study demonstrating

Oxine®(AH) ’s superiority over 10 other standard disinfectants.
(The Journal of Industrial Microbiology, volume 4, 1989: 145-154.) may be used at relatively low concentrations due to its ultra high activity. It is not a hypochlorite and, therefore, does not chlorinate to produce toxic by-products such as the THMs generated by chlorine products. 

Oxine®(AH) has been successfully tested and proven extremely effective against a broad spectrum of microorganisms. USDA studies suggest chlorine dioxide may be up to 7 times more effective than chlorine bleach. OXINE is very effective in the control of malodors by eliminating the odor causing bacteria or compound at the surface.

Oxine®(AH) eliminates odors.

Oxine®(AH) leaves no toxic chemical residue or odors.

Oxine®(AH) is easy to apply - no rinsing required.

Oxine®(AH) possesses low toxicity category assigned by EPA (Category III



More info is at http://www.bio-cide.com/index.php 

I am not too sure where to get it - I got mine from a lady who was selling it... I did really like it.  Hubby says Offshore platforms use it in the Air systems, and also for cleaning...  I would do a soak with it - for a min. exposure of 20 minutes and let each item air dry... or you could rinse then air dry.  If you wanted to be extra cautious, you could get a UV Sterilizer for around $100 to $200 and put the containers in that after an Oxine bath...  that would really do the trick, with really no heat involved.  

Hope this has helped.


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## pink-north (Jan 18, 2008)

:shock: Great information. Thanks. I will keep that in mind if and when I start to get into lip balms and the like. Right now I'm just soap, but really thank you very much. I appreciate a thorough answer to my question. I will do some research around here to see where I can get the Oxide or maybe something similar under a different name.


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## pepperi27 (Jan 19, 2008)

I first learned about sterilization while working at a Daycare in Seattle. They taught me how to dilute the bleach with water been using it ever since to clean more than just my equipment! We cleaned everything with that solution because those little dickens put their mouth, fingers, and face everywhere! LOL So I use soap/water/solution. Sorry for the flashback!


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## Guest (Jan 20, 2008)

pepperi27 said:
			
		

> I first learned about sterilization while working at a Daycare in Seattle. They taught me how to dilute the bleach with water been using it ever since to clean more than just my equipment! We cleaned everything with that solution because those little dickens put their mouth, fingers, and face everywhere! LOL So I use soap/water/solution. Sorry for the flashback!



But just remember that bleach/water must be mixed up fresh daily, 

i learned that as well when I was licensed for home day care.


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## pepperi27 (Jan 20, 2008)

Well the director handled that but she showed me how to do it!


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