# Oil seeping out of some of my CP and HP soaps



## Academianut (Jan 2, 2018)

Hello All,

I have made 7 batches of soap (2 of them hot process) just to try it out. I've used the same base recipe for all of them 34% OO, 33% Coconut oil and 33% Sunflower oil.

Batch 1. CP. No additives except a few drops of lavender EO. No sodium lactate.
Batch 2. CP. Activated charcoal and tea tree EO. Added poppy seeds for texture and calendula petals for design at the top. 2 tbsp sodium lactate. (I misread the recipe and used 2 tbsp instead of 2 tsp but the loaf and bars turned out fine)
Batch 3. CP. Tried a soap with layers. Bottom Coloured with french green clay and dotted with poppy seeds. middle with activated charcoal, top I left white with calendula petals stirred through it. 2 tbsp sodium lactate
Batch 4. CP. caldenula petals + calendula extract + ground oats+ 2 tsp sodium lactate
Batch 5. CP. I coloured half with australian pink clay and mixen in rose geranium EO. 2 tsp SL
Batch 6.HP. Activated charcoal and tea tree oil. Used 2 tbsp yoghurt instead of sodium lactate
Batch 7. HP. Ground oats + lavender EO + 2 tbsp yoghurt (instead of sodium lactate)

I cured all in my (unused) oven as I don't have space. CP 6 w. HP 3 weeks.
4 batches turned out well but 3 bacthes (1, 5 and 6) have oil seeping out of them and I can't figure out why.

My first guess was EO but batch 1 did not have much EO at all and has a lot of oil seeping out. Even though the oil is seeping out, the soap seems to be alright to use and formed a beautiful loaf/ bars. 

What could be causing the oil seepage?


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## dixiedragon (Jan 2, 2018)

Can you post a pic? Can you identify which batches are sweating? Rub the sweat between your fingers - what does it smell like and feel like?

How much water did you use? I have used too much water and had more sweating than normal.

How old are the batches? The soap may re-absorb the sweat if they are fairly new.

If not, gently blot the sweat off. The soap should be fine. Some FOs seem to be prone to causing seepage.


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## Cellador (Jan 2, 2018)

Has it been humid lately? Where I am, it is generally humid and my batches will randomly sweat, especially if I don't give them enough air flow. I would imagine that a closed oven may not allow much air movement.


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## DeeAnna (Jan 2, 2018)

Also verify that it is actually oil -- it could be glycerin. Rub some of the seepage onto your fingertips, then gently rinse your fingers with cool water. If oil, it won't rinse off and water will bead up on any oil remaining on the skin. If glycerin, it will rinse off and water will not bead up on the skin.


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## Anita32 (Jan 2, 2018)

Can you please share your recipes with exact measurements I would be really interested to try them.


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## SunRiseArts (Jan 3, 2018)

I would add, but is just my opinion, that you have 70% soft oils, and it might just be they need longer curing.


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## SaltedFig (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello Academianut (terrific name!)

I would be a little concerned that curing soaps in an oven might have caused the soap to come into contact with metals, or simply that there was not enough air flow around the soap during the cure.

Pure cotton is resistant to lye while allowing air to penetrate, if you need something to keep the dust off for the cure.
Something like this  Cotton canvas shoe hanger (found using an image search "Canvas shoe rack Australia") might work for your limited space.


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## shunt2011 (Jan 3, 2018)

Anita32 said:


> Can you please share your recipes with exact measurements I would be really interested to try them.


 
Welcome to the forum!  
Please start a new thread.  Also, please read the rules for the forum. As asking someone for a recipe is considered a big no no.  Many folks have shared recipes on this forum and they are available via a search.  Many though have worked long and hard on recipes and are not as likely to share.

If you have a recipe that's not working for you, post it and members will be more than happy to help you trouble shoot.


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## Academianut (Apr 18, 2018)

dixiedragon said:


> Can you post a pic? Can you identify which batches are sweating? Rub the sweat between your fingers - what does it smell like and feel like?
> 
> How much water did you use? I have used too much water and had more sweating than normal.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I did use all the soap. I have no pics now but have done a few more batches with a different recipe



Cellador said:


> Has it been humid lately? Where I am, it is generally humid and my batches will randomly sweat, especially if I don't give them enough air flow. I would imagine that a closed oven may not allow much air movement.


I am in Australia and it was quite humid. Thanks for the advice. I now leave my oven door open and am in search of a good alternative place to cure



DeeAnna said:


> Also verify that it is actually oil -- it could be glycerin. Rub some of the seepage onto your fingertips, then gently rinse your fingers with cool water. If oil, it won't rinse off and water will bead up on any oil remaining on the skin. If glycerin, it will rinse off and water will not bead up on the skin.


Thanks Anna. I have one bar left from that batch


SaltedFig said:


> Hello Academianut (terrific name!)
> 
> I would be a little concerned that curing soaps in an oven might have caused the soap to come into contact with metals, or simply that there was not enough air flow around the soap during the cure.
> 
> ...


Thanks DeeAnna That's a good idea. I tried to order a curing tray from the US but they have a $135 postage fee! I am now thinking of a stackable letter tray (plastic)



SunRiseArts said:


> I would add, but is just my opinion, that you have 70% soft oils, and it might just be they need longer curing.


Could be but in that case I wouldn't expect a difference in the batches.


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## girlfromoz (Apr 19, 2018)

Academianut said:


> Could be but in that case I wouldn't expect a difference in the batches.



Hiya,another Oz girl here , it could be a few different things as suggested.
Sometimes the oil or such can go back in depending on the amount, can be caused by not stiring/blending in enough before the pour or an excess...

As they are curing just give them a good wipe over and leave them to sit, they may be fine.
Hint on curing racks if you dont have much room ,you can use wooden shoe racks but cover the wood before putting the bars on and turn often.

Enjoy...

Oh and you can stack the shoe racks on top of eachother just dont do too many, i learnt the hard way


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## Kari (Apr 19, 2018)

You don't mention if you're trying to superfat these or not. Are the bars soft even with the sodium lactate? Are you sure you have full trace and not false trace? Are you measuring everything out by weight in grams?


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## penelopejane (Apr 19, 2018)

You need airflow all around your soaps as they cure. Especially in our summer. Even putting them in a linen press with the door open is too confining. You can point a fan on them but that is a bit wasteful.

You could use stackable trays like these - often available at the tip  for free or on grays online  cheaply.

https://www.admerch.com.au/product/ih323-bread-tray-grey/

Or 5drawer one of these lined with tea towels (soap can’t touch metal at any time)
https://www.bunnings.com.au/flexi-storage-white-6-runner-kit-with-baskets_p2581213

Or cheap slatted timber book shelves with open sides or the ultimate:


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## zanzalawi (Apr 20, 2018)

penelopejane said:


> Or 5drawer one of these lined with tea towels (soap can’t touch metal at any time)
> https://www.bunnings.com.au/flexi-storage-white-6-runner-kit-with-baskets_p2581213


oh my, i just got a wire bakers rack to cure my soaps on. what happens if the soap touches metal? do you think lining it with parchment paper would work?


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## penelopejane (Apr 20, 2018)

penelopejane said:


> You need airflow all around your soaps as they cure. Especially in our summer. Even putting them in a linen press with the door open is too confining. You can point a fan on them but that is a bit wasteful.
> 
> You could use stackable trays like these - often available at the tip  for free or on grays online  cheaply.
> 
> https://www.admerch.com.au/product/ih323-bread-tray-grey/





zanzalawi said:


> oh my, i just got a wire bakers rack to cure my soaps on. what happens if the soap touches metal? do you think lining it with parchment paper would work?



Parchment paper might work.
Thin cotton tea towels are good. Many people use thin plastic.

If soap touches metal it is highly likely it will develop DOS at some stage. The best solution for dos is to cut it out and use the soap and the whole batch for personal use.


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## earlene (Apr 21, 2018)

I would use plastic mesh, like crafters or needlepoint mesh, as the liner above the metal.  It gives more lift off the metal and doesn't interfere with airflow.  Better yet, if you have any trays made of a non-metal material, I'd use the trays for placing the soap on and then pulling a tray out from the rack is fairly easy.  If you don't have any of those, you could just put cut up cardboard down on the metal racks, and then sit the soap on the cardboard.  Even then, if any of your soaps weep, you may need to change the liner out periodically until the weeping stops.


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## Lee242 (Apr 23, 2018)

Your soap is to hot when you mold it or the lye is making it hot after you mold it.
I also would think that it cracks on top When that happens to me I have a piece of 1/4 in ply wood or anything stiff and clamp it to the top of the soap Put a piece of plastic or something that is non stick against the soap
. Most of the time the oil will go back into the soap.
I also use wood molds with very thin plastic liners that I cut to fit wit a utility knife and a ruler.


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## cmzaha (Apr 23, 2018)

Lee242 said:


> Your soap is to hot when you mold it or the lye is making it hot after you mold it.
> I also would think that it cracks on top When that happens to me I have a piece of 1/4 in ply wood or anything stiff and clamp it to the top of the soap Put a piece of plastic or something that is non stick against the soap
> . Most of the time the oil will go back into the soap.
> I also use wood molds with very thin plastic liners that I cut to fit wit a utility knife and a ruler.


It is not necessarily true that the soap is to hot, since other factors can contribute to sweating other than overheating. One is the high amount of soft oils, two can be soap poured at emulsion, the fragrance, to much liquid....as DeeAnna mentioned it may not even be oil seeping.

Why would you cover a soap that is overheating? Covering a soap that is already to hot is highly risking a volcano, in your case it would run out the sides just not expand over the top. When soap is overheating you want to cool it down as quickly as possible. If soap starts to crack on top it is the beginning of a volcano, the middle has overheated and needs to vent somewhere. Cracks can be mended by spritzing with alcohol and using a gloved finger to smooth it down. Not sure what you are trying to accomplish with clamping down a cover and oil will re-absorb on it own if left alone. If it has caverns in the middle with leaking oil it cannot fix itself, which is another you risk by covering an already to hot soap.

*You don't mention if you're trying to superfat these or not. Are the bars soft even with the sodium lactate? Are you sure you have full trace and not false trace? Are you measuring everything out by weight in grams?...*
False trace usually will not happen with a high percentage of soft oils. If it happens it will happen when tallows and/or butters are used in mid to high percentages. My vegan recipe, which uses 45% palm) will always false trace until it starts to heat up since I soap at cool temps. I soap cool and it takes a bit for the palm to warm up and thin out.


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## rjuconnfan (May 4, 2018)

I am new and I have been reading everything I can. I am anxious to make my  first batch and a bit nervous about a volcano!   LOL..  Also I read somewhere that if soap has an oil on top it meant that the lye did not process right and it would be caustic to use it. Reading this makes me think it is ok to let it cure more and see if it absorbs... please clarify...........is there a way to know if it should be ok or thrown out?  IF it is used and is not right, say on hands first as a test, will it burn? Thank you for your feedback.


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## DeeAnna (May 4, 2018)

rjuconnfan said:


> ...I read somewhere that if soap has an oil on top it meant that the lye did not process right and it would be caustic to use it. Reading this makes me think it is ok to let it cure more and see if it absorbs....



If soap has liquid droplets on it, whether they be mostly fat or mostly water, this more likely means it simply got a little too hot during saponification. It's not a huge issue, honestly, although it is indeed correct that the droplets are alkaline (caustic) so the soap should be handled with care. The best solution is to leave the droplets alone -- they will either reabsorb into the soap or react with carbon dioxide in the air. In a day or three, all should be well, based on my experience. Once the droplets have dried up, you can do a cautious zap test to double check.

You wonder whether to keep it or throw it out? I don't know that weeping is really something I worry about when making that decision. Again, it's more due, IMO, to slight overheating, not to any major disaster that would make the soap unsafe. If you have checked the recipe in a soap recipe calculator, if you are fairly sure no major mistakes have been made in measuring, if the soap behaved as expected when you mixed up the batter and all, and if the soap passes the zap test, then the soap should be fine. Just make a note for that particular recipe about what you could do next time to keep the soap a bit cooler.


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## rjuconnfan (May 4, 2018)

DeeAnna said:


> If soap has liquid droplets on it, whether they be mostly fat or mostly water, this more likely means it simply got a little too hot during saponification. It's not a huge issue, honestly, although it is indeed correct that the droplets are alkaline (caustic) so the soap should be handled with care. The best solution is to leave the droplets alone -- they will either reabsorb into the soap or react with carbon dioxide in the air. In a day or three, all should be well, based on my experience. Once the droplets have dried up, you can do a cautious zap test to double check.
> 
> You wonder whether to keep it or throw it out? I don't know that weeping is really something I worry about when making that decision. Again, it's more due, IMO, to slight overheating, not to any major disaster that would make the soap unsafe. If you have checked the recipe in a soap recipe calculator, if you are fairly sure no major mistakes have been made in measuring, if the soap behaved as expected when you mixed up the batter and all, and if the soap passes the zap test, then the soap should be fine. Just make a note for that particular recipe about what you could do next time to keep the soap a bit cooler.



Thank you for the clarification. I am learning so much here!  It is encouraging to know that if it is wet I won't have to automatically throw it out...that would be disappointing.  I am learning that patience is the key here and a lot of careful planning/thinking through the processes.


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