# 67% Shea Butter CP - INS 155



## Zany_in_CO (Sep 14, 2021)

67% SHEA BUTTER SOAP INS 155    September 15, 2020

Ingredients: Raw Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Oakmoss, Vitamin E, Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, Turmeric, Arrowroot Starch, Fragrance.

    11.4 oz.    water (323g) (38%)
    4.1 oz.    NaOH (116g) (5%)
    20.1 oz.    shea butter (67%)
    8.4 oz.    coconut (28%)
    1.5 oz.    castor oil (5%)
    30 oz.    TOTAL 

    1 tsp.    Turmeric added to lye water (strained)

    1 tsp.    Oakmoss Absolute (10%) in jojoba oil
    1/2 tsp.    ROE 
    2 caps    Vitamin E (1,000 IU)
    1 Tbls    Arrowroot Starch/Flour
    1.8 oz.    White Ginger & Amber (Cybilla) FO

TEMPS: 120° - 135° F
TRACE: 20-25 minutes

Pour into greased molds. Cover with blankets. Place in draft-free area.  
UNMOLD: 24 hours (or when firm to touch.)  
CURE: 4 weeks.

Just found 3 bars in my private  stash. Here's a pic of one of them.


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## winusuren (Dec 30, 2021)

@Zany_in_CO How good is the soap?? Is it moisturizing??


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## Zany_in_CO (Dec 30, 2021)

Hi @winusuren ! 



How good is it? I'd give it a 10 out of 10 points. But I wouldn't call it "moisturizing". All of my products are formulated for Colorado's dry climate. My lotion contains 77% water, 16% oils/butter and I would say it's moisturizing. This soap is more like a conditioner. It has a creamy goodness that leaves my skin with a lovely soft silky feel. I don't feel the need to apply lotion after using it. If you live in a humid climate, it may not work as well for you.


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## AliOop (Dec 30, 2021)

Thanks for sharing your recipe! Is there a reason that you grease the molds? I've never had to grease mine, but I use silicone liners or oven liner sheets.


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## Zany_in_CO (Dec 31, 2021)

@AliOop I use baby oil to lightly grease my unlined silicone molds. For two reasons -- easy release and shiny smooth tops and sides.


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## AliOop (Dec 31, 2021)

Thanks, @Zany_in_CO. I was hoping you were going to say "reduced ash." A few of my silicone molds create terrible ash even when I do all of the following: low water, mixing past emulsion, CPOP, alcohol spray, and leaving them covered in the mold for a week. Maybe I will try some mineral oil just to see if it creates a barrier with the silicone that stops the ash reaction (which, btw, is only on the soap faces that touch the silicone - not the face that is open to the air).


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## Zany_in_CO (Dec 31, 2021)

AliOop said:


> I was hoping you were going to say "reduced ash."


 So sorry! As you may recall, I have never had that problem. No DOS either. I don't know why. 


AliOop said:


> I do all of the following: *low water*, mixing past emulsion, CPOP, alcohol spray, and leaving them covered in the mold for a week.


I don't know if this will be helpful or not, but here goes...

For most of my recipes I use the default settings (*water at 38% of oils*) on *SoapCalc*. -- I rarely discount water and I play around with SF 0-5% depending on the results I want to achieve. I have 2 CP recipes that are the exception. I tried soaping at *33% NaOH concentration* (and other options) but it just never worked well for me in most cases.

Although not always successful, I pour at emulsion. I rarely CPOP. although there are times when it is helpful. I lay a piece of lightly greased 4-ply Mylar on the top of the batch once it is in the mold but I don't bother with spritzing alcohol. I insulate overnight and unmold the next day. I cut the day after unmolding.

I guess i'm just an _"Old School Soaper"_. So much so that I've thought about changing my handle to that instead of _Zany in CO_!  I always take temps and soap at 110°-120°F for soaps high in vegetable/liquid oils; 120°-135°F for hard oils like tallow & lard. I soap cool with milk soaps, EOs, honey & spices known to be "heaters". I make Plain Jane CP with natural colorants, if any. I don't waste my time doing fancy swirls and layers. That time & expense shrinks the profit margin for one thing and It's just not how I like to roll.




 HTH


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## Mobjack Bay (Dec 31, 2021)

@Zany_in_CO pretty soap!  I’m wondering what you used to strain the turmeric from the lye water. Can you feel any powder/texture in the soap?  I know how much you love oakmoss, but I recently read that it’s a skin sensitizer with a recommended maximum dermal limit of 0.1%.  Based on a quick calculation, the final concentration in your soap is less than 0.05%.  Can you smell it at that percentage or did you use it as a fixative?


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## Zany_in_CO (Dec 31, 2021)

Mobjack Bay said:


> @Zany_in_CO pretty soap!


Thank you!


Mobjack Bay said:


> I’m wondering what you used to strain the turmeric from the lye water. Can you feel any powder/texture in the soap?


I use a clean pantyhose piece stretched under and over a strainer, if you can imagine that.  
The "powder/texture" is negligible if any at all.


Mobjack Bay said:


> I know how much you love oakmoss, but I recently read that it’s a skin sensitizer with a recommended maximum dermal limit of 0.1%.


That's correct. Oakmoss is a sensitizer. And, yes, I do love Oakmoss alone or as an "anchor" in many blends. Think of it as a "secret agent". It plays nice with so many other scents you almost can't go wrong when it comes to adding "depth" to a fragrance. I can barely tell it's there.

Years ago, when I first started soaping, a high school classmate complained of smelling "hamburger" while showering with my lard soap!  That's when I learned to use oakmoss to offset the smell of animal fats in soap. In those days, we stuck the tip of a toothpick into the thick viscous absolute and added that to the batch. Later I learned to make a 10% solution by adding 1 oz. Oakmoss Absolute to 9 oz. Jojoba Oil (chosen for its long shelf life) and now add that at 0.7% (1/4-1/2 teaspoon PPO).


Mobjack Bay said:


> Based on a quick calculation, the final concentration in your soap is less than 0.05%. Can you smell it at that percentage or did you use it as a fixative?


I use it to anchor a "light" scent like White Ginger and Amber. The Arrowroot powder is added to help "fix" the fragrance.


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## Mobjack Bay (Dec 31, 2021)

Thanks @Zany_in_CO. I have a ton of turmeric and I’m almost out of annatto. If oakmoss absolute at that low percentage can cancel out the smell of lard, I might give it a try.


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## AliOop (Dec 31, 2021)

@Zany_in_CO thank you. Fortunately, the ash problem only happens with certain silicone molds - not at all the majority of my mold stash. The ashing gets worse with more water, or with thinner emulsions. I truly think it is an issue with some ingredient in the silicone used to make the molds, since it is not an issue with any other molds, as long as I use low water and CPOP them on the heating pad.

Unfortunately, these are some of my favorite detailed molds. However, your idea of greasing them with mineral oil might just do the trick, because it would put a barrier between the soap batter and the silicone. I'll give it a try and let you know how it goes!


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## Zany_in_CO (Jan 1, 2022)

AliOop said:


> your idea of greasing them with mineral oil might just do the trick


I hope so!!!  



Mobjack Bay said:


> If oakmoss absolute at that low percentage can cancel out the smell of lard, I might give it a try.


To save you the trouble, and expense (!), of making your own, I have seen 10% oakmoss EO at a few suppliers. Can't remember where at the moment. 
ETA: Or just buy an ounce of the stuff and use a toothpick!


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## Here To Learn (Mar 4, 2022)

Zany_in_CO said:


> To save you the trouble, and expense (!), of making your own, I have seen 10% oakmoss EO at a few suppliers. Can't remember where at the moment.
> ETA: Or just buy an ounce of the stuff and use a toothpick!


Hi Zany! Where do you buy/find oakmoss EO? I love the smell but have no idea where to purchase!


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## Zany_in_CO (Mar 4, 2022)

Hey @Here To Learn! For the best price and value for the dollar, I buy essential oils, jojoba oil and emu oil at *Sun Pure Botanicals* -- owned by 2 gals in NM who have been in business for as long as I can remember. 99.6% rating on Etsy. ☺


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## Here To Learn (Mar 7, 2022)

Zany_in_CO said:


> Hey @Here To Learn! For the best price and value for the dollar, I buy essential oils, jojoba oil and emu oil at *Sun Pure Botanicals* -- owned by 2 gals in NM who have been in business for as long as I can remember. 99.6% rating on Etsy. ☺


Thank you much!


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## Zany_in_CO (Mar 7, 2022)

You're welcome!


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## maxine289 (Mar 8, 2022)

Zany_in_CO said:


> 67% SHEA BUTTER SOAP INS 155    September 15, 2020
> 
> Ingredients: Raw Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Oakmoss, Vitamin E, Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, Turmeric, Arrowroot Starch, Fragrance.
> 
> ...


Intriguing recipe.  I'm going to try it.  Did you superfat?  What is the purpose of the arrowroot?


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## Zany_in_CO (Mar 8, 2022)

maxine289 said:


> What is the purpose of the arrowroot?


Helps to stick the scent. 


maxine289 said:


> Did you superfat?





Zany_in_CO said:


> 4.1 oz. NaOH (116g)* (5%)*


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## maxine289 (May 9, 2022)

Zany, I tried your recipe.  It creates a super hard bar, good lather, and a nice feel.  Really like it.  Thanks for sharing.  I'm looking for a really simple recipe that makes a good bar.  I've used up to 7 oils in a recipe and that's really too much for me.  I think this will be one of my staples; it's simple and to the point. I saw you had a variation of this with 40% shea, 25% CO, 5% CA, & 30% OO or other oil. I'm going to try that also.


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## Zany_in_CO (May 9, 2022)

@maxine289 You're welcome! I'm so happy you liked it!


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## Vicki Carr (Jun 30, 2022)

Zany_in_CO said:


> 67% SHEA BUTTER SOAP INS 155    September 15, 2020
> 
> Ingredients: Raw Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Oakmoss, Vitamin E, Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, Turmeric, Arrowroot Starch, Fragrance.
> 
> ...


Hi I want to try this recipe but why so much water



maxine289 said:


> Zany, I tried your recipe.  It creates a super hard bar, good lather, and a nice feel.  Really like it.  Thanks for sharing.  I'm looking for a really simple recipe that makes a good bar.  I've used up to 7 oils in a recipe and that's really too much for me.  I think this will be one of my staples; it's simple and to the point. I saw you had a variation of this with 40% shea, 25% CO, 5% CA, & 30% OO or other oil. I'm going to try that also.


Hi did u try the viration of her recipe how did it turn out



Zany_in_CO said:


> You're welcome!


Did you S/F and how did u like your variation of that recipe


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## Zany_in_CO (Jun 30, 2022)

Vicki Carr said:


> Hi I want to try this recipe but why so much water


I use the Default setting on SoapCalc for this recipe. I've never had DOS or soda ash. Advice: Try a small batch first before tweaking it. 



Zany_in_CO said:


> 4.1 oz. NaOH (116g) (5%)


The SF (aka "lye discount") is noted in the NaOH -- 5%


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## cmzaha (Jun 30, 2022)

I make a 59% raw shea, 24% RBO, 12% CO, 5 Castor with a lav, litsea, lemongrass eo combination at 3% superfat and 30% Lye Concentration with a 6 month cure. It makes a lovely gentle bar that will lather nicely after the long cure time. Even better the longer the cure, I am just using up some that are 3 yrs old. I have used up to 75% shea for my own use.


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## maxine289 (Jun 30, 2022)

Vicki Carr said:


> Hi did u try the viration of her recipe how did it turn out


I made it last week so it's curing now.  I'll report back in a few weeks.


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## Vicki Carr (Jun 30, 2022)

Zany_in_CO said:


> @maxine289 You're welcome! I'm so happy you liked it!


Hi I hope u can help me figure out a percentage right I’m just not good at that it might be your recipe I’m gonna ride it here and maybe you can break it down for me olive oil 35% cocoa butter 15% shea butter 20% coconut oil 35% castor oil 5%



Zany_in_CO said:


> 67% SHEA BUTTER SOAP INS 155    September 15, 2020
> 
> Ingredients: Raw Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Oakmoss, Vitamin E, Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, Turmeric, Arrowroot Starch, Fragrance.
> 
> ...


Hi is this water amount right well I guess it is or u wouldn’t put it up there duh



Vicki Carr said:


> Hi I hope u can help me figure out a percentage right I’m just not good at that it might be your recipe I’m gonna ride it here and maybe you can break it down for me olive oil 35% cocoa butter 15% shea butter 20% coconut oil 35% castor oil 5%


Ty I got it


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## bwtapestry (Jul 22, 2022)

Zany_in_CO said:


> 67% SHEA BUTTER SOAP INS 155    September 15, 2020
> 
> Ingredients: Raw Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Oakmoss, Vitamin E, Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, Turmeric, Arrowroot Starch, Fragrance.
> 
> ...


Thank you so much for your recipe!  Have been wanting to make a high shea soap and also try out the oak moss in soap!


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## Bilemiyorum Altan (Jul 22, 2022)

Zany_in_CO said:


> Pour into greased molds.


Can I learn what kind of grease you use to isolate the mold?
I am using paper or strech film and it is hard to do it every time.


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## Zany_in_CO (Jul 22, 2022)

You're welcome!


Bilemiyorum Altan said:


> Can I learn what kind of grease you use to isolate the mold?
> I am using paper or strech film and it is hard to do it every time.


I use WSP's *Loaf Silicone Mold*. I use unscented baby oil or mineral oil.

If  using a wooden mold, or something similar, you will have to line it. 
Look on YouTube to find easy ways to do that, depending on the type of paper you use.


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## Bilemiyorum Altan (Jul 22, 2022)

I am using wooden mold and lining it with cooking paper (we use it in the oven tray) or stretch film . They both work well but hard to prepare that is why I asked.
I thing greasing a wooden mold does not work, must be lined.
Thank you.


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## Zany_in_CO (Jul 22, 2022)

You're welcome. 

Don't worry. We all go through that phase. You will get used to it and it will get easier the more times you do it.


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## bwtapestry (Jul 23, 2022)

Zany_in_CO said:


> Hi67% SHEA BUTTER SOAP INS 155    September 15, 2020
> 
> Ingredients: Raw Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Oakmoss, Vitamin E, Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, Turmeric, Arrowroot Starch, Fragrance.
> 
> ...


@Zany_in_CO   Made your recipe tonight and am very excited to see it tomorrow when


Zany_in_CO said:


> 67% SHEA BUTTER SOAP INS 155    September 15, 2020
> 
> Ingredients: Raw Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Oakmoss, Vitamin E, Rosemary Oleoresin Extract, Turmeric, Arrowroot Starch, Fragrance.
> 
> ...


made zany_in_co recipe with 67% shea butter (7/22/22). Unmolded-cut- stamped today 7/23/22.  Before gelling sprinkled top with Madmicas Color Me Gold.  Looks great!  Love the gentle turmeric coloring. Am in first 6 months of learning to make soap. This recipe went very smoothly and am looking forward to using this in the heavy winters of Wisconsin when my skin drys out!  Thank you Zani_in_co


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## Zany_in_CO (Jul 23, 2022)

bwtapestry said:


> Am in first 6 months of learning to make soap. This recipe went very smoothly and am looking forward to using this in the heavy winters of Wisconsin when my skin drys out!


I agree. They look great! Lovely soaps. Keep up the good work!


bwtapestry said:


> Thank you Zani_in_co


You're welcome!


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