# How to Make Soap - Soapmaking Guide for Beginners



## Prysm

*Soapmaking for Beginners*

There are several reasons people may want to learn how to make soap. While some may choose to do so simply because it’s a fun and satisfying hobby, many people start making their own soaps so they can avoid undesired ingredients like fragrances and synthetic detergents. Most commercial “soaps” are not 100% soap- they are detergent based and have their natural glycerin removed and may be called beauty bars, cleansing bars, face bar, etc. Glycerin is a skin-loving ingredient, but it is removed from commercial soaps to increase shelf life and to sell separately commercially for lotion and skin care products. If you make your own soap, not only do you get to use the ingredients of your choice, but the glycerin in your soap remains. Some hobby soapmakers may decide to make soap so that they may use homegrown ingredients like lard or tallow, aloe vera gel, herbs, and liquids like goat’s or cow’s milk. Some will make their own soap to use all organic ingredients, or perhaps make vegan soaps. Making your own soap allows YOU to choose the ingredients that suit you and your lifestyle.

While everyone seems to know what soap is, it does have a scientific definition. In short, soap is the salt of a fatty acid. From a chemical standpoint, “salt” is not the substance you sprinkle on your food (although sodium chloride IS a salt). A salt is the substance formed by the interaction of an acid and a base. In soapmaking, the acid is a fatty acid (the oils chosen, like olive oil) combined with lye (usually sodium hydroxide). The reaction between them is called saponification. Saponification can be defined as the process taking place that converts those oils/fats by the lye dissolved in water to soap. While lye can be dangerous to use, and precautions must be taken to make soap safely, lye is needed for this process. If someone tells you that you can make soap without lye, that is not true. What IS true is that if the soap is made properly, there is no lye remaining in the soap at all due to this chemical reaction between the lye and oils. There is an entirely new substance created- soap!

*Preparation (Collect all of your supplies)*

Nonreactive vessel to melt your oils on stove or microwave (HDPE #2 or PP #5 plastic or stainless steel).
Nonreactive pitcher or container to mix lye into water (NOT PYREX OR GLASS!!!!)
Nonreactive utensils like stainless spoons or silicone spoons to stir
Protective gear like safety glasses, apron, rubber gloves, long sleeves
Mold for your soap, (lined if needed with either freezer paper lining, quilter's mylar, plastic cutting mats or silicone fondant mats) or silicone molds. Silicone and other molds sold for soapmaking generally do not need to be lined. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions if using a commercial soap mold.
Consider an immersion blender for stirring/mixing the soap batter as a time and labor saving device
Soapmaking software. Because of the need for precise measurements for both the oils and lye, always run any recipe you find through a soap calculator. Each oil has a different saponification value and requires a different amount of lye; and especially if you are substituting one oil for another, you will always want to double check the lye amount. We recommend the simple, easy to use calculator at *SoapmakingFriend.com*.
*Safety notes*

Soapmaking really is a simple process. The details needs more attention.

All ingredients, including liquids are always measured by weight. This ensures precision.
Lye is a caustic, and should be handled with care. Safety googles and protective clothing should be used throughout the process. Also, lye mixed in water gets HOT fast. So always mix cold water or whatever liquid your using with the lye-never use hot or warm liquids. In general, you will use about 2 times the amount of water as lye, but can err on the side of caution with a 2.5:1 ratio- that is, use 2.5 times as much water, by weight, as lye.
Even though this soapmaking technique is called ‘cold process’, the soap batter is hot. Have hot pads at the ready, and protection for your counters.
Mixing the lye into the water is crucial. Always add lye to water, in a taller vessel than you think you need. Never, but ever, add water to lye- it will volcano on your and be dangerous. “Add lye to water, just like you oughter” will help you remember this.
Measuring is critical. You need to measure carefully as to ensure you have the proper amount of fats and lye so that you don’t have a lye-heavy soap. The old “grandma’s lye soaps” that you’ve heard will “take the hide off of you” should remind you of this. Your scale should go to the hundredth of an ounce if using imperial measurements, and to the tenth of a gram if using metric. Measuring lye in grams is a great idea, as it is more precise but ounces will work if you have an accurate scale for small amounts.
Use only fragrances or colors designed for soapmaking. Anything with alcohol (like perfume) will cause the soap to seize right away. Some fragrances, like those with vanilla scents, will turn the soap brown. Consult the manufacturer’s directions if you are using a fragrance or essential oil new to you.
As was mentioned earlier, make sure you run ANY recipe through a soapmaking calculator, even one you may have made before. This avoids any possibility of a lye-heavy soap, or not using enough lye and having a ruined batch. This takes just a few minutes, less than 2 minutes usually, and is important for the safety of your batch.
*Basic Steps*

*Step 1: * Gather equipment and ingredients
*Step 2:* Measure lye and add to the measured (weighed) water
*Step 3: *Weigh the oils, and melt the hard oils first. Add soft or liquid oils so all of your oils are combined
*Step 4: *Add the lye water to the oils gradually, stirring.
*Step 5:* Stir until you reach trace, when lifting your spoon across the soap batter leaves a line or a ‘trace’ behind.
*Step 6: *Pour into prepared mold(s)
*Step 7: *When cooled and firm, cut into bars and set on a rack to cure for 4-6 weeks.
*Get Started!*

Now that you have your equipment, a knowledge of the safety rules, and the basics, we need our recipe and ingredients. Our recipe comes from the ‘sample recipes’ on *SoapmakingFriend.com*.

We’ll be using ingredients that you can find at your local grocery or drug store, except for the lye. Lye is found online, or in hardware stores with the drain cleaners. Just make sure you have 100% sodium hydroxide, lye, with no other ingredients.

Each oil you use brings something different to the soap. Coconut oil is cleansing, and helps create great bubbles in the soap, but too much can be drying for those with a dry and/or sensitive skin-type. Olive oil is conditioning to the skin, but can make a soft soap that can feel a little slimy in too- large amounts. Lard is inexpensive and helps give the soap stable lather, conditioning to the skin, gentle, and helps make the soap hard. If you are wanting a vegetable oil only soap, you may use palm oil instead of lard, but run it through a soap calculator to double check the lye!

A typical soap recipe looks like this:

60% Lard
20% Coconut oil
20% Olive oil
Superfat at 5% (Superfat is the amount of excess oil used to ensure that all of the lye is used up, so the soap is not lye heavy, and the excess fat is conditioning to the body) 
	

	







						Easy 3- Oil First Soap
					

Recipe created by Yooper




					www.soapmakingfriend.com
				



The recipe looks like this after you enter those amounts:







You will notice that the recipe page gives you a lot of information about the make up of the oils, and the qualities including cleansing, hardness, bubbles, lather, etc. For now, seeing that your recipe is in the general recommended percentages of each of those properties is great. Once you get more experience, you can vary this by your preference as you learn to formulate your own recipes.

You can see that the amounts of the oils are calculated for us by entering our percentages. The recipe also calculates the lye amounts and water amounts as well, so we are ready to go!

The printed page gives us all we need:






There are check boxes to help you check off the ingredients as you use them, so be sure to do that as you don’t want to leave out any ingredients. You can measure in grams and/or ounces by looking at the amounts in the columns.

*Steps to making your first batch*

Step 1 - Find your recipe, and run it through a soap calculator. Ensure you have all your ingredients handy, as once you start it goes pretty fast! Grab a pen so you can check off the ingredients as you go.
Step 2- Put on your goggles and gloves, and carefully weigh the lye in a small plastic container. Set aside, and weigh your water in a large non-reactive, non-glass container (plastic is good for these items). Add the lye to the water, stirring well and avoid breathing the fumes. Try to do this in a well-ventilated area. It gets HOT fast. Use caution. Let sit to cool.
Step 3- Weigh your fats/oils, and melt the hard ones over low heat. Once melted, add the rest of your oils. Do this in a heat-proof vessel- stainless is great, and plastic works too. Do NOT use aluminum!
Step 4: Once both your lye solution and your oils are 120 degrees or less, add the lye water slowly to the oils, and stir well. You will want to fully mix the ingredients, and this takes quite a bit of time with hand stirring. The batter will begin to change, from oils with liquid to a smooth soap batter that will become opaque and look like a thin pudding. An immersion blender, with burst off and on as to not burn out the motor, will make this job much faster and easier. Keep the immersion blender under the surface of the soap, as to not whip air into it. Then stir with the blender off, to keep checking to see when you are at “trace”
Step 5: When the soap batter reaches a trace (when you can move the spoon through the batter and see a line, or a ‘trace’ left behind), the batter is ready to pour. Trace can be a thin trace or medium trace, but pour before the soap batter gets too thick. Add your “add at trace” ingredients if using them (like color or fragrance) and pour into your prepared mold. Cover with a towel to maintain the temperature without allowing it to overheat. At this point, you can remove your safety gear. Wash your items before the soap sets up on them. Some people will use old rags or newspaper to wipe off the thickened soap batter and discard so it doesn’t go down the drain.  Some don't wash out their soap-pot and soaping utensils until the next day when the soap batter in them/on them has turned to soap overnight and they are super easier to clean then.
Step 6: Allow to sit until firm, usually about 24 hours but some will harden faster than others. You will want to cut your soap with a sharp knife when the soap feels like cheddar cheese when you press on it. If it’s too hard, it may crumble. If it’s too soft, you won’t be able to unmold it. Check it several times if necessary. Because this is a ‘cold process’ soap, that is, not cooked or heat applied, the saponification process is not finished when the soap is poured into the mold. The chemical reaction will continue while the soap is in the mold and will finish as the soap heats up a bit more, and cools. The soap may go through a ‘gel’ stage as well, and you may see that if you check the soap during that time. It will look clear in the middle, and go out to the ends as it finishes. Don’t worry- this is a normal process!
Step 7: Once you cut the soap, place on a rack in a dry place and allow it to cure for 4-6 weeks. It will become milder and sudsier with curing.
*That’s all there is to it! You’ve made soap.*

As you gain experience, you may want to try different ingredients, fragrances, colors, and recipes. You are only limited by the ingredients available and your imagination.


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## GreenDragon

I prefer to add my colorants (Mica or clays) to the melted oil and stick blend a few seconds to disperse the color and break up any lumps (clays especially).  Then I proceed - add lye etc.  For a beginner, this can eliminate headaches if they wait too long to add their colors and the soap has progressed to a heavy trace, and you cannot get an even distribution.  Just my personal preference.


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## CatahoulaBubble

I think you should add that a scale that has grams or ounces is important for weighing out the oils and lye and that you want to go by weight and not by volume.


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## Kristus_Apollo

An outstanding guide for beginners! A couple of suggestions to clarify for beginners that might be helpful:

Define what "nonreactive" means for the beginner
You might include pictures of non-common items for a beginner like an immersion blender or examples of soap molds
I would change the font color to *red* and bold it for two of the bullet points under "Safety Notes" to emphasize the danger and caution needed for the bulleted points that start with:
"Lye is a caustic..."
"Mixing the lye into the water..."

Maybe give an example of what kind of pitcher to use under the "Preparation" section for this bullet point since you've stated what not to use:
"Nonreactive pitcher or container to mix lye into water (NOT PYREX OR GLASS!!!!)"


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## MissE

GreenDragon said:


> I prefer to add my colorants (Mica or clays) to the melted oil and stick blend a few seconds to disperse the color and break up any lumps (clays especially).  Then I proceed - add lye etc.  For a beginner, this can eliminate headaches if they wait too long to add their colors and the soap has progressed to a heavy trace, and you cannot get an even distribution.  Just my personal preference.


I think colorants so early will speed up trace and sometimes this too is hard for beginners to handle.


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## Loralye

Proofreading only

5th line needs to have an s added to bar so that it is consistent.

Instead of-sell separately commercially for lotion and skin care products - try sell separately for commercial lotion and skin care products.

change - perhaps make vegan soaps - perhaps to make vegan soaps

Under safety notes, change - on your and be dangerous - on you and be dangerous

 slimy in too- large amounts - remove the dash or the extra space after it

are super easier to clean - try _super easy_ or just _easier to clean_


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## Garden Gives Me Joy

I salute your work! 

To extend @Kristus_Apollo's idea re images of implements, I think that *images of abstract concepts (like trace)* would be helpful. At minimum, they could be very short 2-3 second videos or GIFF files. For a complete novice, it would take the guess work out of things. If you need images of abstract concepts, perhaps you can ask members to submit images and we can vote on the most illustrative ones. If you do, just include style guidelines.

If possible, a demonstration video following these recipe and instructions in their entirety will likely help.


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## RedSkies82

I do see just a few errors in grammar and spelling. But mostly you should be clear that this is the “cold process” technique (even in your title) Maybe providing a link to a melt and pour technique might be helpful for those who for whatever don’t like to use lye in their soap. I have personally found melt and pour processes very easy to use but also as an introduction to cold process soaps.

Also maybe a little more thoroughness on how to add colorant (I agree with someone else about mixing mica together when it is hot to get the lumps out) but there are also color bars and even drops that could be used.

Finally- did I miss something on how to spray rubbing alcohol over the soaps once in their molds to pop any bubbles on the surface and kind of even it out? That is also a technique I like to employ.

Mark Ryan


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## dschiavo

In the collect your supplies section you may want to add a scale to weigh your ingredients (or something to that effect) and some means of measuring temperature since it is noted in instructions to make that the temp should be 120.  Looks pretty good though!


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## Donna Ohanian

Great column! Lots of good info.  I would add that soap makes great gifts. For soap molds, an empty cardboard chicken broth container is the perfect size, as are empty cardboard heavy cream containers. No need to buy expensive molds to get started.  I would add something about avoiding inexpensive fragrance oils as they are usually blends and not pure oils.
I saw a “your” where you mean you are. Maybe it’s just me, but I would never wear gloves. I want my hands non-slippery when I mix the water into lye. I do wear glasses and I always do it outside, even if it’s 10 degreees out. No one should be breathing that chemical reaction inside their kitchen.  I keep it away from pets up on a deck railing while it cools with an old candy thermometer keeping tabs on the temperature. 

Great beginner explanation!


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## Unlimabun

First, @Prysm, this is a fabulous guide for beginners!

Second, I think there have been some great suggestions, so far. @Kristus_Apollo's suggestion of highlighting important information is fantastic! Safety can't be mentioned too much. I also love @Garden Gives Me Joy's suggestion of GIFs for what trace looks like, or other things that might be difficult for beginners to grasp. They are also great tools for visual learners.

Third, here are some of my suggestions:


> *Preparation (Collect all of your supplies)*
> 
> Nonreactive vessel to melt your oils on stove or microwave (HDPE #2 or PP #5 plastic or stainless steel).


I would also emphasize the dangers of using aluminum.


> Mold for your soap, (lined if needed with either freezer paper lining, quilter's mylar, plastic cutting mats or silicone fondant mats) or silicone molds...


I think it is important for beginners to know they don’t need to make huge investments to make soap. For example, they can make molds from recycled products like boxes, sturdy plastic containers, Pringles cans, etc. They can also make their own molds from foam board, or even cardboard. They can line the boxes, cardboard, and foamboard molds with strips of clear packing tape or freezer paper.


> As was mentioned earlier, make sure you run ANY recipe through a soapmaking calculator, even one you may have made before. This avoids any possibility of a lye-heavy soap, or not using enough lye and having a ruined batch. This takes just a few minutes, less than 2 minutes usually, and is important for the safety of your batch.


I think you are very wise to tell them to run ANY recipe through a soap calculator and I would consider including recipes found in books, or online, in addition to “one you may have made before”. There are some pretty wacked recipes out there that are really dangerous!


> *Step 2:* Measure lye and add to the measured (weighed) water


I would suggest also adding to stir until the lye is dissolved because it clumps up so easily.


> Step 2- Put on your goggles and gloves....*(plastic is good for these items)*...


I would emphasize again the types of plastic to use (HDPD#5, PP#5, etc,) because disposable plastic cups and other plastic will completely melt with lye water. They will also melt with fragrance and essential oils.


> Step 5: When the soap batter reaches a trace...*At this point, you can remove your safety gear*. Wash your items before the soap sets up on them. Some people will use old rags or newspaper to wipe off the thickened soap batter and discard so it doesn’t go down the drain....


I would NOT suggest removing gloves and long sleeves to clean raw soap batter.

I hope you find my suggestions helpful. Good luck with it all!


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## ThinLizzie59

I have a question, and recommendation, about this particular bulleted warning sentence….

"Nonreactive pitcher or container to mix lye into water (NOT PYREX OR GLASS!!!!)"

The question is Why?
Pyrex is tempered glass, specially designed to withstand the heat of a furnace or flame. 
As a Chef, I’ve used pyrex ovenware on the BBQ, under the Broiler, and in the Oven.  
It’s specifically created to withstand extreme temperatures without breaking.  The large Pyrex mixing-bowls are equipped with handles.  Incidentally, Brambleberry’s founder (and President) uses them when  doing her “How-To Video” segments for You-Tube, and also recommends their use.
I think, personally, that this quote I’ve taken in-question is misleading and inaccurate.  Would you like to respond? If not, I recommend the changes, to reflect this. With the First Warning to be:

* The Equipment MUST be kept specifically FOR SOAP PRODUCTION ONLY!  Never use, or allow the interchange, of any hardware used in SOAP preparation, later, for FOOD production.  
*  Only the use of branded “PYREX” glass, or stainless-steel, or Silicone for the mixing of lye and oils in the soap-production process.

These are my recommendations. Does anyone agree or disagree?

Thank you, ThinLizzie



Donna Ohanian said:


> Great column! Lots of good info.  I would add that soap makes great gifts. For soap molds, an empty cardboard chicken broth container is the perfect size, as are empty cardboard heavy cream containers. No need to buy expensive molds to get started.  I would add something about avoiding inexpensive fragrance oils as they are usually blends and not pure oils.
> I saw a “your” where you mean you are. Maybe it’s just me, but I would never wear gloves. I want my hands non-slippery when I mix the water into lye. I do wear glasses and I always do it outside, even if it’s 10 degreees out. No one should be breathing that chemical reaction inside their kitchen.  I keep it away from pets up on a deck railing while it cools with an old candy thermometer keeping tabs on the temperature.
> 
> Great beginner explanation!


I use and highly recommend the use of surgical gloves, if you don’t like using rubber-gloves.  Just ONE splash of lye-water will help you to understand why!
There’s a REASON why they use lye to dissolve dead bodies. It works FAST to dissolve flesh and bone to a ‘pourable liquid.’  And LYE burns like HELL!


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## Consuela

Wording/minor grammar but it's just my thoughts. 

"Most commercial “soaps” are not 100% soap- they are detergent based and have their natural glycerin removed and may be called beauty bars, cleansing bars, face bar, etc. Glycerin is a skin-loving ingredient, but it is removed from commercial soaps to increase shelf life and to sell separately commercially for lotion and skin care products."
Most commercial "soaps" are not 100% soap. They are detergent based and have their natural glycerin removed. They may be called beauty bars, cleansing bars, face bars, etc. Glycerin is a skin-loving ingredient _(insert brief blurb about humectant maybe?)_ but it is removed in commercial soap making to increase shelf life and is sold separately commercially for lotion and skin-care products. 

"While lye can be dangerous to use, and precautions must be taken to make soap safely, lye is needed for this process. If someone tells you that you can make soap without lye, that is not true. What IS true is that if the soap is made properly, there is no lye remaining in the soap at all due to this chemical reaction between the lye and oils. There is an entirely new substance created- soap!
_While lye can be dangerous to use and precautions must be taken to make soap safely, lye is needed for this process. (Took out comma after and)
If someone tells you that you can make soap without lye, it isn't true. (swap the that for it?) 
What IS true, is that if soap is made properly than no lye remains at all in the soap due to the chemical reaction between the lye and the oils.There is an entirely new substance created: soap. (colon vs em dash?) (Also: don't know why all of a sudden if/than wants to correct to if/then.)_

*Preparation (Collect all of your supplies)*

Nonreactive vessel _such as stainless steel stock pot _to melt your oils on stove or microwave (HDPE #2 or PP #5 plastic). _*Do not use aluminum. Aminum reacts with lye and will flake off into your soap over time_
Nonreactive pitcher or container to mix lye into wate_r (NOT PYREX OR GLASS!!!!)_
Nonreactive utensils like stainless spoons or silicone spoons to stir _*Do not use wooden utensils as the lye will degrade the lye over time and it can splinter off_
Protective gear like safety glasses, apron, rubber gloves, long sleeves
Mold for your soap, (lined if needed with either freezer paper lining, quilter's mylar, plastic cutting mats or silicone fondant mats) or silicone molds. Silicone and other molds sold for soapmaking generally do not need to be lined. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions if using a commercial soap mold.
Consider an immersion blender for stirring/mixing the soap batter as a time and _labor-saving_ device _*Sure, you don't need one but it makes soapmaking a lot easier._
Soapmaking software. Because of the need for precise measurements for both the oils and lye, always run any recipe you find through a soap calculator. Each oil has a different saponification value and requires a different amount of lye _to go through the chemical reaction and make soap. I_f you are substituting one oil for another you will always want to double check the amount of lye needed. We recommend the simple, easy-to-use calculator at *SoapmakingFriend.com*.

(Silly grammar addon in my browser says to hyphenate double-check but I'm not sure it's necessary as there isn't a qualifying thingy (definitely the proper term I'm looking for) that follows the action. 

If it was me I might even include a quick blurb that you can double check your recipes by hand with some simple math and a SAP chart, but this isn't necessarily the norm nor is it necessarily best practice for brand new soap makers without understanding the math and science behind it. 
(I mean, I do all of my calculations by hand but that's because that's how I learned and it was outlined in the first soap-making book I was given. There was a whole chapter dedicated to it and math problems to solve. Because you know, grade 10 math wasn't traumatizing enough.) 

Perhaps not necessary to go into massive details about HOW to do it, but just that it can be done. (For example: Olive oil has a SAP value of .135. To saponify 100g of Olive oil we would multiply 100 by .135 which means we need 13.5 grams of lye. However, this does not account for superfatting. To superfat at 5% we would take the 13.5g and multiply it by .95 to calculate the actual amount of lye needed. etc. etc. 
I'm sure there's a more eloquent way to say this ^ if you wanted to include such things. 

I mean, at the end of the day there are SO MANY facets to soap making, just how detailed and mind blowing do you want it to be? Maybe don't want to introduce anyone into the rabbit hole too soon, as too much information can be overwhelming. But seriously, there's just so much about soap making. 

As mentioned above by someone else, I would mention that you can make your first batch of soap fairly inexpensively by repurposing materials/equipment that you might already have around the house, or thrifting. Etc. I believe the first soap book I learned from mentioned repurposing used margarine containers, tupperware, milk cartons, etc. At the time my first batch was made in a tupperware and my mother was severely offended. 

K. I'm being beckoned now by my small humans ...


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## KiwiMoose

@Prysm - love your work!


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## KiwiMoose

ThinLizzie59 said:


> * The Equipment MUST be kept specifically FOR SOAP PRODUCTION ONLY!  Never use, or allow the interchange, of any hardware used in SOAP preparation, later, for FOOD production.


I disagree.  Whilst I do have my own soap making containers and equipment, I have no qualms about using them with food, or vice versa, using my regular food equipment with soap occasionally. Everything has been washed, so what difference does it make?


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## AliOop

I agree with @KiwiMoose on that point. Of course, you should clean everything scrupulously after making anything, whether food or soap, but don't you do that anyway?  

Other than not getting soap in your food (blech), what is the big concern about multi-use equipment? There is zero active lye after making soap and washing everything up. You use *soap* (or detergent) to wash everything, doncha?


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## fish123

Hi everyone,

Overall is very well written, but I also can not agree with:

"Nonreactive pitcher or container to mix lye into water (NOT PYREX OR GLASS!!!!)"
-
PYREX is tempered glass compound and can be used in oven at much higher temperatures. And glass (incl. Pyrex) is one of the most nonreactive surfaces we have ...except for hydrofluoric acid... I always use Pyrex pitchers for mixing lye and soap and and they look as new as before.
Better to add a note - "GRADUALLY stir lye into water". I actually use COLD BATH for Pyrex pitcher where I disolve lye to:
(a) prevent irritating fumes from hot lye and
(b) better control temp before mixing - I hate to wait the whole eternity until it gets cool enough to mix.

I also use soaping containers and stick blender (stainless steel full immersion length) without any hesitations for FOOD - lye and fresh soap is CAUSTIC, NOT TOXIC, normal basic soap is practically "food-grade" safe, the safest soap to wash the dishes, actually. SO why to be afraid of using same utensils??
Oh! and remember - pretzels are actually bathed in lye solution before backing to get that chick "Bretzel" look and special taste, so much for lye "toxicity"... if it is pure of course (but any other would not do good for soaping either).

One should be careful using some fragrances perhaps... But then again - if everything should be non-reactive (on which I totally agree), it will not pick up any of it either (here Pyrex is definitely better than plastic).


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## ThinLizzie59

Hi,

Just a real quick correction here:

(remove While, capitalize: Lye) can be dangerous to use(. period. Make this sentence short. It will stand-out in its importance, omit: and, capitalize: Precautions) must be taken to make soap safely(. No comma, instead use period, again, short sentence. 
New sentence, capitalize: Lye) is needed for this process. (Took out comma after: and)
If someone tells you, that you can make soap without lye, (remove: it isn't true. Strengthen the validity of your statement. Something outright wrong, can be declared wrong. Use the truth, through knowledge of the facts, to remove all doubt) (..that is False!)

What IS true, is that if soap is made properly(,) than ( improper word selected. “than” is used when making a comparison, such as ‘less than or greater than. You should use: then..” referring to a result, or after the fact.) 
..then, no lye remains at all in the soap(,)due to the chemical reaction between the lye and the oils.There is an entirely new substance


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## Annem

GreenDragon said:


> I prefer to add my colorants (Mica or clays) to the melted oil and stick blend a few seconds to disperse the color and break up any lumps (clays especially).  Then I proceed - add lye etc.  For a beginner, this can eliminate headaches if they wait too long to add their colors and the soap has progressed to a heavy trace, and you cannot get an even distribution.  Just my personal preference.


Thank you for thinking of me. This will probably take me a while. I could have it finished by sometime tomorrow, if that's okay



ThinLizzie59 said:


> Hi,
> 
> Just a real quick correction here:
> 
> (remove While, capitalize: Lye) can be dangerous to use(. period. Make this sentence short. It will stand-out in its importance, omit: and, capitalize: Precautions) must be taken to make soap safely(. No comma, instead use period, again, short sentence.
> New sentence, capitalize: Lye) is needed for this process. (Took out comma after: and)
> If someone tells you, that you can make soap without lye, (remove: it isn't true. Strengthen the validity of your statement. Something outright wrong, can be declared wrong. Use the truth, through knowledge of the facts, to remove all doubt) (..that is False!)
> 
> What IS true, is that if soap is made properly(,) than ( improper word selected. “than” is used when making a comparison, such as ‘less than or greater than. You should use: then..” referring to a result, or after the fact.)
> ..then, no lye remains at all in the soap(,)due to the chemical reaction between the lye and the oils.There is an entirely new substance


It looks like you already got somebody to proof it. Do you still want my help?


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## ThinLizzie59

AliOop said:


> I agree with @KiwiMoose on that point. Of course, you should clean everything scrupulously after making anything, whether food or soap, but don't you do that anyway?
> 
> Other than not getting soap in your food (blech), what is the big concern about multi-use equipment? There is zero active lye after making soap and washing everything up. You use *soap* (or detergent) to wash everything, doncha?


Raw LYE molecules can become trapped in microscopic cracks of any porous container or tools used during the soap-making process. These may then leech-out, into food during food-preparation. (such as stewing, or stirring)  NEVER use once ‘soap-making tools’ or any equipment, which comes into direct contact with LYE, during the saponification process of mixing  or blending SOAP.
Keep all soap-making equipment, completely SEPARATE from your food-preparation equipment.
A separate room or studio is preferable, by law, but few have that luxury. Proof of knowledge regarding the cross-contamination of LYE and FOOD is required for your License.


----------



## Zany_in_CO

This thread provides the missing parts others mentioned.






						Sources for New Soap Makers
					

Beginner's Learn to Soap online:  Still one of the best around! http://www.millersoap.com/  Tried & True Recipes http://www.thesage.com/recipes/recipes.php  MMS Lye Calc (Includes basic soapmaking instructions and other basic information.) http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php  MMS Measure...




					www.soapmakingforum.com


----------



## Steve85569

Pyrex should not be used in soap making for two reasons.
1.) the lye and mixing will over time cause the glass to begin to erode. This means that very small bits of glass are going in the soap.
2.) I have had the exciting experience of having the pyrex *click* and break.
Of course you are free to disagree. I only speak of my own experience. Your mileage may vary.

Steve


----------



## AliOop

ThinLizzie59 said:


> Raw LYE molecules can become trapped in microscopic cracks of any porous container or tools used during the soap-making process. These may then leech-out, into food during food-preparation. (such as stewing, or stirring)  NEVER use once ‘soap-making tools’ or any equipment, which comes into direct contact with LYE, during the saponification process of mixing  or blending SOAP.
> Keep all soap-making equipment, completely SEPARATE from your food-preparation equipment.
> A separate room or studio is preferable, by law, but few have that luxury. Proof of knowledge regarding the cross-contamination of LYE and FOOD is required for your License.


Sorry, I am all about lye safety when working with it, but I must disagree with the above.

First, we aren't talking about lye "molecules" - lye is usually in the form of grains, beads, or flakes.

Lye isn't poisonous. A fair number of foods are prepared in lye solutions: olives, bagels, and pretzels, for instance.

Lye solutions are also used to adjust pH for many body-care products that we apply to our skin and hair.

Most importantly, "raw" lye doesn't remain active after exposure to air. It actually absorbs moisture from the air, and ends up as harmless sodium bicarbonate (like the soda ash you see on soap). So, if a grain of undissolved lye somehow manages to attach itself to your stick-blender (despite having been mixed in water, blended into the soap batter, and then thoroughly washed up after), by the time you use the SB to make mayo or blend your butternut squash soup, that bead of lye is no longer caustic or dangerous in any way.

Same with any lye solution that somehow escapes being incorporated into the soap. If it soaks into crevices on your crockpot, as it dries, it will become harmless soda ash.

ETA: If you were to take the "no sharing utensils" rule to its logical conclusion, you should also not soap in your kitchen or in any area used for anything but soapmaking. After all, lye beads are probably more prone to scatter on countertops than to get stuck in the blade of your stickblender. But again, those lye beads on your floor or counters will become soda ash given enough time and humidity.


----------



## LionLady

Given that Pyrex brand glassware is made to withstand high temperatures, you might need to explain briefly why/when glassware could be dangerous, beyond "DO NOT USE..." ie if it has any damage, or is not specifically made for high temperatures.


----------



## Zany_in_CO

Steve85569 said:


> Pyrex should not be used in soap making for two reasons.


@Steve85569   Thank you for giving me the opportunity to disagree. I just wish we could agree that plastic should be recommended as the _preferred_ option for soapmaking. There are many of us "Old Timers" (especially outside of SMF) that use Pyrex pitchers and should be allowed to do so without fear of being pilloried for the practice as happened to me when I first joined SMF. 

Although plastic is the preferred option, I use a heavy glass (not Pyrex) 4-cup pitcher for mixing lye. It is heavily etched by lye indeed. It was that way when I bought it at a garage sale in 2004!!!  What a find!!! 







*Original Pyrex* was made of Borosilicate glass. No problem. My first 8-cup Borosilicate glass Pyrex lasted for 13 years. Sadly, it broke when it slipped out of my hands and fell to the floor as I was carrying a load of fruit salad to place in a serving bowl.

*New Pyrex* is regular glass and prone to breaking, especially if you put the hot glass on anything cold. *TIP*: Wood cutting boards work well. I have one by my microwave and one on the counter by my kitchen sink when soaping.

The 8-cup glass Pyrex I replaced it with didn't last 2 months. It broke in a clean circle, mid-point between the top and bottom, when I put it in a sink full of water. ACK!

You can imagine my delight when I recently learned that Amazon is now offering *Borosilicate Glass Measuring Cups for "Commercial Use."*

_Durable borosilicate glass can be heated from 32°f (0 °C) to 450° F (232 °C)._


----------



## TheGecko

ThinLizzie59 said:


> I have a question, and recommendation, about this particular bulleted warning sentence….
> 
> "Nonreactive pitcher or container to mix lye into water (NOT PYREX OR GLASS!!!!)"
> 
> The question is Why?
> Pyrex is tempered glass, specially designed to withstand the heat of a furnace or flame.
> As a Chef, I’ve used pyrex ovenware on the BBQ, under the Broiler, and in the Oven.
> It’s specifically created to withstand extreme temperatures without breaking.  The large Pyrex mixing-bowls are equipped with handles.  Incidentally, Brambleberry’s founder (and President) uses them when  doing her “How-To Video” segments for You-Tube, and also recommends their use.
> I think, personally, that this quote I’ve taken in-question is misleading and inaccurate.  Would you like to respond? If not, I recommend the changes, to reflect this. With the First Warning to be:
> 
> * The Equipment MUST be kept specifically FOR SOAP PRODUCTION ONLY!  Never use, or allow the interchange, of any hardware used in SOAP preparation, later, for FOOD production.
> *  Only the use of branded “PYREX” glass, or stainless-steel, or Silicone for the mixing of lye and oils in the soap-production process.
> 
> These are my recommendations. Does anyone agree or disagree?
> 
> Thank you, ThinLizzie


Disagree.

Because Pyrex was developed FOR cooking and baking, NOT soap making.  While it can go from the freezer to the oven to the table, it was NOT meant to have caustic soda mixed in it.  Yes Pyrex is durable, but it's not absolute; even less so since the Pyrex sold today is not the same that was sold to my grandmother and mother.  I've seen Pyrex bakeware split...sometimes in half, sometimes in several pieces.  Same with their glass measuring cups.  Bad enough to have to clean up glass...now let's add a 220F+ caustic mixture to it.

Of course she uses a glass mixing bowl...1) she sells them on her website (it's NOT PYREX BTW), 2) it makes for better looking videos.  It does NOT mean that she is right.  As much as I like BB's products, I completely disagree with her use of glass.  And she doesn't scrape out her containers and she wastes a lot of ingredients, but then again, that's to her advantage so you buy more.

As for soap equipment...some things you _*are*_ going to want to keep separate.  Example...the chopsticks I use for my swirls are made out of wood (I save them from take out).  But on the other hand, If I feel the need to texture my soap, I just grab a teaspoon out of the drawer (stainless steel).  Most of the my 'soaping equipment' is deemed 'sole and separate' as a matter of convenience (daughter is bad about putting stuff back where it belongs) and because soap making can be really hard on stuff.  It's FAR cheaper for me to use a mixing bowl from the Dollar Tree than it is my Tupperware 'cuz have you seen what a stick blender does to plastic?  A lot of the reasons for having separate equipment is so that you don't get soap in your food because you didn't clean your stick blender well or you're using two-piece spatulas and didn't take them apart.  And for the same reason you wouldn't want to have food particles to your lotion.


----------



## Max89242

Prysm said:


> *Soapmaking for Beginners*
> 
> There are several reasons people may want to learn how to make soap. While some may choose to do so simply because it’s a fun and satisfying hobby, many people start making their own soaps so they can avoid undesired ingredients like fragrances and synthetic detergents. Most commercial “soaps” are not 100% soap- they are detergent based and have their natural glycerin removed and may be called beauty bars, cleansing bars, face bar, etc. Glycerin is a skin-loving ingredient, but it is removed from commercial soaps to increase shelf life and to sell separately commercially for lotion and skin care products. If you make your own soap, not only do you get to use the ingredients of your choice, but the glycerin in your soap remains. Some hobby soapmakers may decide to make soap so that they may use homegrown ingredients like lard or tallow, aloe vera gel, herbs, and liquids like goat’s or cow’s milk. Some will make their own soap to use all organic ingredients, or perhaps make vegan soaps. Making your own soap allows YOU to choose the ingredients that suit you and your lifestyle.
> 
> While everyone seems to know what soap is, it does have a scientific definition. In short, soap is the salt of a fatty acid. From a chemical standpoint, “salt” is not the substance you sprinkle on your food (although sodium chloride IS a salt). A salt is the substance formed by the interaction of an acid and a base. In soapmaking, the acid is a fatty acid (the oils chosen, like olive oil) combined with lye (usually sodium hydroxide). The reaction between them is called saponification. Saponification can be defined as the process taking place that converts those oils/fats by the lye dissolved in water to soap. While lye can be dangerous to use, and precautions must be taken to make soap safely, lye is needed for this process. If someone tells you that you can make soap without lye, that is not true. What IS true is that if the soap is made properly, there is no lye remaining in the soap at all due to this chemical reaction between the lye and oils. There is an entirely new substance created- soap!
> 
> *Preparation (Collect all of your supplies)*
> 
> Nonreactive vessel to melt your oils on stove or microwave (HDPE #2 or PP #5 plastic or stainless steel).
> Nonreactive pitcher or container to mix lye into water (NOT PYREX OR GLASS!!!!)
> Nonreactive utensils like stainless spoons or silicone spoons to stir
> Protective gear like safety glasses, apron, rubber gloves, long sleeves
> Mold for your soap, (lined if needed with either freezer paper lining, quilter's mylar, plastic cutting mats or silicone fondant mats) or silicone molds. Silicone and other molds sold for soapmaking generally do not need to be lined. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions if using a commercial soap mold.
> Consider an immersion blender for stirring/mixing the soap batter as a time and labor saving device
> Soapmaking software. Because of the need for precise measurements for both the oils and lye, always run any recipe you find through a soap calculator. Each oil has a different saponification value and requires a different amount of lye; and especially if you are substituting one oil for another, you will always want to double check the lye amount. We recommend the simple, easy to use calculator at *SoapmakingFriend.com*.
> *Safety notes*
> 
> Soapmaking really is a simple process. The details needs more attention.
> 
> All ingredients, including liquids are always measured by weight. This ensures precision.
> Lye is a caustic, and should be handled with care. Safety googles and protective clothing should be used throughout the process. Also, lye mixed in water gets HOT fast. So always mix cold water or whatever liquid your using with the lye-never use hot or warm liquids. In general, you will use about 2 times the amount of water as lye, but can err on the side of caution with a 2.5:1 ratio- that is, use 2.5 times as much water, by weight, as lye.
> Even though this soapmaking technique is called ‘cold process’, the soap batter is hot. Have hot pads at the ready, and protection for your counters.
> Mixing the lye into the water is crucial. Always add lye to water, in a taller vessel than you think you need. Never, but ever, add water to lye- it will volcano on your and be dangerous. “Add lye to water, just like you oughter” will help you remember this.
> Measuring is critical. You need to measure carefully as to ensure you have the proper amount of fats and lye so that you don’t have a lye-heavy soap. The old “grandma’s lye soaps” that you’ve heard will “take the hide off of you” should remind you of this. Your scale should go to the hundredth of an ounce if using imperial measurements, and to the tenth of a gram if using metric. Measuring lye in grams is a great idea, as it is more precise but ounces will work if you have an accurate scale for small amounts.
> Use only fragrances or colors designed for soapmaking. Anything with alcohol (like perfume) will cause the soap to seize right away. Some fragrances, like those with vanilla scents, will turn the soap brown. Consult the manufacturer’s directions if you are using a fragrance or essential oil new to you.
> As was mentioned earlier, make sure you run ANY recipe through a soapmaking calculator, even one you may have made before. This avoids any possibility of a lye-heavy soap, or not using enough lye and having a ruined batch. This takes just a few minutes, less than 2 minutes usually, and is important for the safety of your batch.
> *Basic Steps*
> 
> *Step 1: * Gather equipment and ingredients
> *Step 2:* Measure lye and add to the measured (weighed) water
> *Step 3: *Weigh the oils, and melt the hard oils first. Add soft or liquid oils so all of your oils are combined
> *Step 4: *Add the lye water to the oils gradually, stirring.
> *Step 5:* Stir until you reach trace, when lifting your spoon across the soap batter leaves a line or a ‘trace’ behind.
> *Step 6: *Pour into prepared mold(s)
> *Step 7: *When cooled and firm, cut into bars and set on a rack to cure for 4-6 weeks.
> *Get Started!*
> 
> Now that you have your equipment, a knowledge of the safety rules, and the basics, we need our recipe and ingredients. Our recipe comes from the ‘sample recipes’ on *SoapmakingFriend.com*.
> 
> We’ll be using ingredients that you can find at your local grocery or drug store, except for the lye. Lye is found online, or in hardware stores with the drain cleaners. Just make sure you have 100% sodium hydroxide, lye, with no other ingredients.
> 
> Each oil you use brings something different to the soap. Coconut oil is cleansing, and helps create great bubbles in the soap, but too much can be drying for those with a dry and/or sensitive skin-type. Olive oil is conditioning to the skin, but can make a soft soap that can feel a little slimy in too- large amounts. Lard is inexpensive and helps give the soap stable lather, conditioning to the skin, gentle, and helps make the soap hard. If you are wanting a vegetable oil only soap, you may use palm oil instead of lard, but run it through a soap calculator to double check the lye!
> 
> A typical soap recipe looks like this:
> 
> 60% Lard
> 20% Coconut oil
> 20% Olive oil
> Superfat at 5% (Superfat is the amount of excess oil used to ensure that all of the lye is used up, so the soap is not lye heavy, and the excess fat is conditioning to the body)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy 3- Oil First Soap
> 
> 
> Recipe created by Yooper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.soapmakingfriend.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipe looks like this after you enter those amounts:
> 
> View attachment 67590
> 
> 
> You will notice that the recipe page gives you a lot of information about the make up of the oils, and the qualities including cleansing, hardness, bubbles, lather, etc. For now, seeing that your recipe is in the general recommended percentages of each of those properties is great. Once you get more experience, you can vary this by your preference as you learn to formulate your own recipes.
> 
> You can see that the amounts of the oils are calculated for us by entering our percentages. The recipe also calculates the lye amounts and water amounts as well, so we are ready to go!
> 
> The printed page gives us all we need:
> 
> View attachment 67591
> 
> 
> There are check boxes to help you check off the ingredients as you use them, so be sure to do that as you don’t want to leave out any ingredients. You can measure in grams and/or ounces by looking at the amounts in the columns.
> 
> *Steps to making your first batch*
> 
> Step 1 - Find your recipe, and run it through a soap calculator. Ensure you have all your ingredients handy, as once you start it goes pretty fast! Grab a pen so you can check off the ingredients as you go.
> Step 2- Put on your goggles and gloves, and carefully weigh the lye in a small plastic container. Set aside, and weigh your water in a large non-reactive, non-glass container (plastic is good for these items). Add the lye to the water, stirring well and avoid breathing the fumes. Try to do this in a well-ventilated area. It gets HOT fast. Use caution. Let sit to cool.
> Step 3- Weigh your fats/oils, and melt the hard ones over low heat. Once melted, add the rest of your oils. Do this in a heat-proof vessel- stainless is great, and plastic works too. Do NOT use aluminum!
> Step 4: Once both your lye solution and your oils are 120 degrees or less, add the lye water slowly to the oils, and stir well. You will want to fully mix the ingredients, and this takes quite a bit of time with hand stirring. The batter will begin to change, from oils with liquid to a smooth soap batter that will become opaque and look like a thin pudding. An immersion blender, with burst off and on as to not burn out the motor, will make this job much faster and easier. Keep the immersion blender under the surface of the soap, as to not whip air into it. Then stir with the blender off, to keep checking to see when you are at “trace”
> Step 5: When the soap batter reaches a trace (when you can move the spoon through the batter and see a line, or a ‘trace’ left behind), the batter is ready to pour. Trace can be a thin trace or medium trace, but pour before the soap batter gets too thick. Add your “add at trace” ingredients if using them (like color or fragrance) and pour into your prepared mold. Cover with a towel to maintain the temperature without allowing it to overheat. At this point, you can remove your safety gear. Wash your items before the soap sets up on them. Some people will use old rags or newspaper to wipe off the thickened soap batter and discard so it doesn’t go down the drain.  Some don't wash out their soap-pot and soaping utensils until the next day when the soap batter in them/on them has turned to soap overnight and they are super easier to clean then.
> Step 6: Allow to sit until firm, usually about 24 hours but some will harden faster than others. You will want to cut your soap with a sharp knife when the soap feels like cheddar cheese when you press on it. If it’s too hard, it may crumble. If it’s too soft, you won’t be able to unmold it. Check it several times if necessary. Because this is a ‘cold process’ soap, that is, not cooked or heat applied, the saponification process is not finished when the soap is poured into the mold. The chemical reaction will continue while the soap is in the mold and will finish as the soap heats up a bit more, and cools. The soap may go through a ‘gel’ stage as well, and you may see that if you check the soap during that time. It will look clear in the middle, and go out to the ends as it finishes. Don’t worry- this is a normal process!
> Step 7: Once you cut the soap, place on a rack in a dry place and allow it to cure for 4-6 weeks. It will become milder and sudsier with curing.
> *That’s all there is to it! You’ve made soap.*
> 
> As you gain experience, you may want to try different ingredients, fragrances, colors, and recipes. You are only limited by the ingredients available and your imagination.


Your information for basic soap is great - a lot of detail.  Avoid breathing the fumes when lye is added to water. You may want to include a brief note about creating hot process soap. When I began making soap I was using a small postal scale and didn't realize for years the scale was inadequate and really non functional as my soap was lye heavy. Fortunately, we didn't suffer any burns but the soap was great for my oily skin. For my soap making I prefer essential oils and use no fragrance except what, rose petals(amber queen holds the pale yellow color - I assume the yellow or white rose petals do the same), where red oxidizes to brown. Anyway, I'd try making soap using your beginners information. 

Almost forgot to suggest using a container with vinegar water to neutralize any lye spills and wiping areas where lye may have spilled.


----------



## Minerva's Curious Physick

ThinLizzie59 said:


> Raw LYE molecules can become trapped in microscopic cracks of any porous container or tools used during the soap-making process. These may then leech-out, into food during food-preparation. (such as stewing, or stirring)  NEVER use once ‘soap-making tools’ or any equipment, which comes into direct contact with LYE, during the saponification process of mixing  or blending SOAP.
> Keep all soap-making equipment, completely SEPARATE from your food-preparation equipment.
> A separate room or studio is preferable, by law, but few have that luxury. Proof of knowledge regarding the cross-contamination of LYE and FOOD is required for your License.


The lye I use is food grade, and lye is often used in food prep (i.e. bagels, pretzels, hominy, canned mandarin oranges, olives, etc). Sodium hydroxide is a dangerously strong base, but that's affected by concentration. It's caustic and dangerous in soap because it's very concentrated while we work with it, which means a high pH. The incredibly low concentration I'll get if microscopic amounts trapped in microscopic cracks mix with my food doesn't concern me; after all, bagel dough is dipped in a lye solution, then boiled and eaten. But I'm also based in the US, and I don't know all the regulations soapmakers deal with in other countries. I also know the colorants and scents I use aren't poisonous (some have laxative effects, though), but that could be something to think about when you're deciding whether to use a ceramic crockpot for both food and soap.


----------



## RoseéMatinale

Prysm said:


> *Preparation (Collect all of your supplies)*
> 
> Nonreactive vessel to melt your oils on stove or microwave (HDPE #2 or PP #5 plastic or stainless steel).



I really lile this extensive explanation 

Ther is something I would change here: 
“…on stove (stainless steel) or microwave (HDPE #2 or PP #5 plastic).”

Concerning the dual use: 
I don’t think the lye causes problems, BUT: the colors and fragrances you use are usually designed for use on your skin, or, sure not to be used inside your body. You could get allergic reactions, and some (especially colors) might not be too healthy when swallowed. 
And, as previously mentioned, there is the risk that you cannot get rid of all residues, I would change the wording to something like “not recommended“. 

Thanks for all your work!


----------



## Sarouche

I would recommend pouring the lye water through a small strainer in case there is undissolved lye. I would recommend an infrared thermometer.
I would include information about dispersing your colorants in oil from the recipe before adding to the batter to prevent spots.
I would make sure to tell them not to put essential or fragrance oils in plastic.
As others have said, I do use Pyrex for my lye water and have never had an issue.
I do keep my soaping equipment separate from kitchen utensils mostly for aesthetic reasons. I use my soaping food processor to grind up my citric acid and baking soda for bath bombs and it scratches the container. Plastic containers can hold fragrance that might be unpleasant if later used for food.


----------



## Hertzyscowicz

According to Springer, sodium hydroxide dissolves glass particularly fast, as far as hydroxides go. Then again, water also dissolves silicate glass. I personally wouldn't worry about the trace sodium silicate in the soap.

As for keeping the implements separate, sodium hydroxide is a component in dishwasher detergent, soap can also be used for washing dishes, and oils can be cleaned off containers and implements with either. I don't think a starting soapmaker needs to shell out for a spare stick blender or extra pots and pans. I occasionally use lye to wash particularly greasy dishes.


----------



## KiwiMoose

@Prysm - can you make this a sticky so it stays at the top of the beginners forum?  It's really useful.


----------



## Relle

KiwiMoose said:


> @Prysm - can you make this a sticky so it stays at the top of the beginners forum?  It's really useful.


I made it a sticky yesterday, but Prysm is leaving it for comment for a while.


----------



## melinda48

Prysm said:


> *Soapmaking for Beginners*
> 
> There are several reasons people may want to learn how to make soap. While some may choose to do so simply because it’s a fun and satisfying hobby, many people start making their own soaps so they can avoid undesired ingredients like fragrances and synthetic detergents. Most commercial “soaps” are not 100% soap- they are detergent based and have their natural glycerin removed and may be called beauty bars, cleansing bars, face bar, etc. Glycerin is a skin-loving ingredient, but it is removed from commercial soaps to increase shelf life and to sell separately commercially for lotion and skin care products. If you make your own soap, not only do you get to use the ingredients of your choice, but the glycerin in your soap remains. Some hobby soapmakers may decide to make soap so that they may use homegrown ingredients like lard or tallow, aloe vera gel, herbs, and liquids like goat’s or cow’s milk. Some will make their own soap to use all organic ingredients, or perhaps make vegan soaps. Making your own soap allows YOU to choose the ingredients that suit you and your lifestyle.
> 
> While everyone seems to know what soap is, it does have a scientific definition. In short, soap is the salt of a fatty acid. From a chemical standpoint, “salt” is not the substance you sprinkle on your food (although sodium chloride IS a salt). A salt is the substance formed by the interaction of an acid and a base. In soapmaking, the acid is a fatty acid (the oils chosen, like olive oil) combined with lye (usually sodium hydroxide). The reaction between them is called saponification. Saponification can be defined as the process taking place that converts those oils/fats by the lye dissolved in water to soap. While lye can be dangerous to use, and precautions must be taken to make soap safely, lye is needed for this process. If someone tells you that you can make soap without lye, that is not true. What IS true is that if the soap is made properly, there is no lye remaining in the soap at all due to this chemical reaction between the lye and oils. There is an entirely new substance created- soap!
> 
> *Preparation (Collect all of your supplies)*
> 
> Nonreactive vessel to melt your oils on stove or microwave (HDPE #2 or PP #5 plastic or stainless steel).
> Nonreactive pitcher or container to mix lye into water (NOT PYREX OR GLASS!!!!)
> Nonreactive utensils like stainless spoons or silicone spoons to stir
> Protective gear like safety glasses, apron, rubber gloves, long sleeves
> Mold for your soap, (lined if needed with either freezer paper lining, quilter's mylar, plastic cutting mats or silicone fondant mats) or silicone molds. Silicone and other molds sold for soapmaking generally do not need to be lined. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions if using a commercial soap mold.
> Consider an immersion blender for stirring/mixing the soap batter as a time and labor saving device
> Soapmaking software. Because of the need for precise measurements for both the oils and lye, always run any recipe you find through a soap calculator. Each oil has a different saponification value and requires a different amount of lye; and especially if you are substituting one oil for another, you will always want to double check the lye amount. We recommend the simple, easy to use calculator at *SoapmakingFriend.com*.
> *Safety notes*
> 
> Soapmaking really is a simple process. The details needs more attention.
> 
> All ingredients, including liquids are always measured by weight. This ensures precision.
> Lye is a caustic, and should be handled with care. Safety googles and protective clothing should be used throughout the process. Also, lye mixed in water gets HOT fast. So always mix cold water or whatever liquid your using with the lye-never use hot or warm liquids. In general, you will use about 2 times the amount of water as lye, but can err on the side of caution with a 2.5:1 ratio- that is, use 2.5 times as much water, by weight, as lye.
> Even though this soapmaking technique is called ‘cold process’, the soap batter is hot. Have hot pads at the ready, and protection for your counters.
> Mixing the lye into the water is crucial. Always add lye to water, in a taller vessel than you think you need. Never, but ever, add water to lye- it will volcano on your and be dangerous. “Add lye to water, just like you oughter” will help you remember this.
> Measuring is critical. You need to measure carefully as to ensure you have the proper amount of fats and lye so that you don’t have a lye-heavy soap. The old “grandma’s lye soaps” that you’ve heard will “take the hide off of you” should remind you of this. Your scale should go to the hundredth of an ounce if using imperial measurements, and to the tenth of a gram if using metric. Measuring lye in grams is a great idea, as it is more precise but ounces will work if you have an accurate scale for small amounts.
> Use only fragrances or colors designed for soapmaking. Anything with alcohol (like perfume) will cause the soap to seize right away. Some fragrances, like those with vanilla scents, will turn the soap brown. Consult the manufacturer’s directions if you are using a fragrance or essential oil new to you.
> As was mentioned earlier, make sure you run ANY recipe through a soapmaking calculator, even one you may have made before. This avoids any possibility of a lye-heavy soap, or not using enough lye and having a ruined batch. This takes just a few minutes, less than 2 minutes usually, and is important for the safety of your batch.
> *Basic Steps*
> 
> *Step 1: * Gather equipment and ingredients
> *Step 2:* Measure lye and add to the measured (weighed) water
> *Step 3: *Weigh the oils, and melt the hard oils first. Add soft or liquid oils so all of your oils are combined
> *Step 4: *Add the lye water to the oils gradually, stirring.
> *Step 5:* Stir until you reach trace, when lifting your spoon across the soap batter leaves a line or a ‘trace’ behind.
> *Step 6: *Pour into prepared mold(s)
> *Step 7: *When cooled and firm, cut into bars and set on a rack to cure for 4-6 weeks.
> *Get Started!*
> 
> Now that you have your equipment, a knowledge of the safety rules, and the basics, we need our recipe and ingredients. Our recipe comes from the ‘sample recipes’ on *SoapmakingFriend.com*.
> 
> We’ll be using ingredients that you can find at your local grocery or drug store, except for the lye. Lye is found online, or in hardware stores with the drain cleaners. Just make sure you have 100% sodium hydroxide, lye, with no other ingredients.
> 
> Each oil you use brings something different to the soap. Coconut oil is cleansing, and helps create great bubbles in the soap, but too much can be drying for those with a dry and/or sensitive skin-type. Olive oil is conditioning to the skin, but can make a soft soap that can feel a little slimy in too- large amounts. Lard is inexpensive and helps give the soap stable lather, conditioning to the skin, gentle, and helps make the soap hard. If you are wanting a vegetable oil only soap, you may use palm oil instead of lard, but run it through a soap calculator to double check the lye!
> 
> A typical soap recipe looks like this:
> 
> 60% Lard
> 20% Coconut oil
> 20% Olive oil
> Superfat at 5% (Superfat is the amount of excess oil used to ensure that all of the lye is used up, so the soap is not lye heavy, and the excess fat is conditioning to the body)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy 3- Oil First Soap
> 
> 
> Recipe created by Yooper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.soapmakingfriend.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The recipe looks like this after you enter those amounts:
> 
> View attachment 67590
> 
> 
> You will notice that the recipe page gives you a lot of information about the make up of the oils, and the qualities including cleansing, hardness, bubbles, lather, etc. For now, seeing that your recipe is in the general recommended percentages of each of those properties is great. Once you get more experience, you can vary this by your preference as you learn to formulate your own recipes.
> 
> You can see that the amounts of the oils are calculated for us by entering our percentages. The recipe also calculates the lye amounts and water amounts as well, so we are ready to go!
> 
> The printed page gives us all we need:
> 
> View attachment 67591
> 
> 
> There are check boxes to help you check off the ingredients as you use them, so be sure to do that as you don’t want to leave out any ingredients. You can measure in grams and/or ounces by looking at the amounts in the columns.
> 
> *Steps to making your first batch*
> 
> Step 1 - Find your recipe, and run it through a soap calculator. Ensure you have all your ingredients handy, as once you start it goes pretty fast! Grab a pen so you can check off the ingredients as you go.
> Step 2- Put on your goggles and gloves, and carefully weigh the lye in a small plastic container. Set aside, and weigh your water in a large non-reactive, non-glass container (plastic is good for these items). Add the lye to the water, stirring well and avoid breathing the fumes. Try to do this in a well-ventilated area. It gets HOT fast. Use caution. Let sit to cool.
> Step 3- Weigh your fats/oils, and melt the hard ones over low heat. Once melted, add the rest of your oils. Do this in a heat-proof vessel- stainless is great, and plastic works too. Do NOT use aluminum!
> Step 4: Once both your lye solution and your oils are 120 degrees or less, add the lye water slowly to the oils, and stir well. You will want to fully mix the ingredients, and this takes quite a bit of time with hand stirring. The batter will begin to change, from oils with liquid to a smooth soap batter that will become opaque and look like a thin pudding. An immersion blender, with burst off and on as to not burn out the motor, will make this job much faster and easier. Keep the immersion blender under the surface of the soap, as to not whip air into it. Then stir with the blender off, to keep checking to see when you are at “trace”
> Step 5: When the soap batter reaches a trace (when you can move the spoon through the batter and see a line, or a ‘trace’ left behind), the batter is ready to pour. Trace can be a thin trace or medium trace, but pour before the soap batter gets too thick. Add your “add at trace” ingredients if using them (like color or fragrance) and pour into your prepared mold. Cover with a towel to maintain the temperature without allowing it to overheat. At this point, you can remove your safety gear. Wash your items before the soap sets up on them. Some people will use old rags or newspaper to wipe off the thickened soap batter and discard so it doesn’t go down the drain.  Some don't wash out their soap-pot and soaping utensils until the next day when the soap batter in them/on them has turned to soap overnight and they are super easier to clean then.
> Step 6: Allow to sit until firm, usually about 24 hours but some will harden faster than others. You will want to cut your soap with a sharp knife when the soap feels like cheddar cheese when you press on it. If it’s too hard, it may crumble. If it’s too soft, you won’t be able to unmold it. Check it several times if necessary. Because this is a ‘cold process’ soap, that is, not cooked or heat applied, the saponification process is not finished when the soap is poured into the mold. The chemical reaction will continue while the soap is in the mold and will finish as the soap heats up a bit more, and cools. The soap may go through a ‘gel’ stage as well, and you may see that if you check the soap during that time. It will look clear in the middle, and go out to the ends as it finishes. Don’t worry- this is a normal process!
> Step 7: Once you cut the soap, place on a rack in a dry place and allow it to cure for 4-6 weeks. It will become milder and sudsier with curing.
> *That’s all there is to it! You’ve made soap.*
> 
> As you gain experience, you may want to try different ingredients, fragrances, colors, and recipes. You are only limited by the ingredients available and your imagination.


I would suggest you stress (maybe in capital letters) that lye is always added to water (not the other way around). A good reminder is “snow always falls on the lake.”  Otherwise, aside from a bit of wordiness in some areas and the typical grammatical errors, this is a great intro for beginners! Thank you for taking the time to introduce the craft to newbies.


----------



## Goldy

Looks good to me!


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## Hertzyscowicz

Maybe you should specify that the temperatures are in degrees Fahrenheit, and include the equivalent in Celsius. I know you can get oils to 120 centigrade, I'm not sure how hot a lye mixture can get.


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## Valerie bishop

This is great! I would change: 'If you make your own soap, not only do you get to use the ingredients of your choice, but the glycerin in your soap remains. ' 
to:  If you make your own soap you can choose the ingredients you'd like, and the glycerin will remain.


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## MickeyRat

Good job!

I can see the gang is being just as argumentative as usual.   You might want to mention that like barbecue there are a lot of opinions on how to make soap best.

I think it's okay to use pyrex for soap making.  It's not okay to use for storing lye.

You don't mention that you should use distilled water as opposed to tap water.  In most cases, it won't make any difference but, there could be substances in tap water that will react with the lye.

There are those that will disagree but,  I'm of the opinion that long sleeves should not be used for making soap.  Here's my reasoning.  If you spill lye water or thin batter shortly after you dump the lye on your sleeve,  the sleeve will serve to hold it next to your skin while it's burning you.  It's easier to wash off with no sleeve there.  Sleeves will provide some protection when the batter is thick but, it's not all that reactive then.  If you get some on your skin, you get a little itch first and you have some time to get it off before it starts burning.

I'll take it a step further and say you shouldn't be wearing anything you can't get off in a hurry.  I usually wear goggles, nitrile gloves, a tee shirt, stretch shorts, flops and a rubberized apron.

I posted this topic when I dumped a thin batch in my lap. That experience is what formed my opinion.

It's not actually part of the soapmaking process but, you might want to mention that for cleanup, it's easier to let the greasy goop sit for a couple days and turn into soap.  Just tell people to soak the items and get the soap off.  If you just toss them in the dishwasher, you wind up with a kitchen full of suds.  Guess how I know.


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## Steve85569

Thank you Zany for the much better explanation of *why *I had the problem with "pyrex". It makes sense since I too have been around long enough to have used both types of the brand.
And thank you for the link as well!!


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## Happysoapersdanz

Great job!! There are a few things I feel need to be addressed. All my suggestions are in red, original text is in black.

Most commercial “soaps” are not 100% soap- they are detergent based and have their natural glycerin removed and may be called beauty bars, cleansing bars, face bar, etc. Glycerin is a skin-loving ingredient, but it is removed from commercial soaps to increase shelf life and to sell separately commercially for lotion and skin care products. If you make your own soap, not only do you get to use the ingredients of your choice, but the glycerin in your soap remains.

Many commercial "soaps" are not 100% soap. Some are detergent-based with ingredients synthetically derived. They may be called beauty bars, cleansing bars, face bars, etc. but they are not true soaps. The few true commercial soaps on the market remove the natural glycerin formed as a by-product of the soapmaking process and sell it for use in cosmetics and other applications. If you make your own soap, you get to use the ingredients of your choice, and the glycerin in your soap remains.

You stated that ...... Glycerin is a skin-loving ingredient, but it is removed from commercial soaps to increase shelf life.....I don't believe glycerin affects the shelf life of the soap, at least I have never read that it does. One of the reasons glycerin is removed from commercial soaps is because the soap is pressed between rollers and the glycerin makes the soap stick to the rollers, another reason is the soap is made with excess lye and is "salted out" or treated and the treatment separates the excess lye and glycerin in the process. The glycerin is then recovered for other uses.

Saponification can be defined as the process taking place that converts those oils/fats by the lye dissolved in water to soap plus glycerin.


Nonreactive vessel to melt your oils on stove or microwave (HDPE #2 or PP #5 plastic or stainless steel). I would make this a bullet and then an indented bullet.....Some people don't have good reading comprehension skills and some people don't think things through. It is best to be very specific!


Nonreactive vessel to melt the oils on the stove or in the microwave.

If melting your oils on the stove, use a stainless steel container. (Aluminum, copper and other metals react to the lye solution and create harmful gasses).
If melting your oils in the microwave, use either HDPE #2 or PP#5 plastic. (Not all plastics are microwave or lye safe!)

Nonreactive pitcher or container to mix lye into the water.

Use only heavy-duty plastic or stainless steel containers.
Do Not use glass!  Glass, including pyrex, will break down over time due to the high alkaline content of the lye solution, causing the glass to break without warning.

Protective gear like safety glasses, apron, rubber gloves, long sleeves should read....Protective gear includes safety glasses, apron, rubber gloves, long sleeves and closed-toed shoes.
There should be the following additional bullets...

An emergency rinsing station in the event of a lye spill. It can be as simple as a couple of gallons of water set aside for such an emergency until you can get to free-flowing water or the kitchen sink with a spray attachment.
Paper towels for spills.
Accurate scales for the amount of material being weighed. A good soapmaking scale many soapmakers use is the MyWeigh KD-7000.
Cooking thermometer for checking the temperature of the oils and lye solution.
*Basic Steps*

*Step 1: *Gather equipment and ingredients
Step 2. Safety first! Put on your personal safety equipment!
Step 3. Weigh the water and set aside
Step 4. Weigh the lye and add to the weighed water. Stir until the lye is completely dissolved.
*Step 2:* Measure lye and add to the measured (weighed) water
*Step 3: *Weigh the oils, and melt the hard oils first. Add soft or liquid oils so all of your oils are combined
*Step 4: *Add the lye water to the oils gradually, stirring.
*Step 5:* Stir until you reach trace, when lifting your spoon across the soap batter leaves a line or a ‘trace’ behind.
*Step 6: *Pour into prepared mold(s)
*Step 7: *When cooled and firm, cut into bars and set on a rack to cure for 4-6 weeks.


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## Zany_in_CO

*LYE BURNS*


----------



## earlene

Great job, @Prysm!

There are already many good suggestions and lots of discussion as to why some are better included than possibly some of the others, but I'd like to add that since we are an international community the use of Celsius as well as Fahrenheit for temperature would be a very helpful adjustment to the Original Post.  (Step 4 in making the first batch)


----------



## Hertzyscowicz

AliOop said:


> Sorry, I am all about lye safety when working with it, but I must disagree with the above.
> 
> First, we aren't talking about lye "molecules" - lye is usually in the form of grains, beads, or flakes.
> 
> Lye isn't poisonous. A fair number of foods are prepared in lye solutions: olives, bagels, and pretzels, for instance.
> 
> Lye solutions are also used to adjust pH for many body-care products that we apply to our skin and hair.
> 
> Most importantly, "raw" lye doesn't remain active after exposure to air. It actually absorbs moisture from the air, and ends up as harmless sodium bicarbonate (like the soda ash you see on soap). So, if a grain of undissolved lye somehow manages to attach itself to your stick-blender (despite having been mixed in water, blended into the soap batter, and then thoroughly washed up after), by the time you use the SB to make mayo or blend your butternut squash soup, that bead of lye is no longer caustic or dangerous in any way.
> 
> Same with any lye solution that somehow escapes being incorporated into the soap. If it soaks into crevices on your crockpot, as it dries, it will become harmless soda ash.
> 
> ETA: If you were to take the "no sharing utensils" rule to its logical conclusion, you should also not soap in your kitchen or in any area used for anything but soapmaking. After all, lye beads are probably more prone to scatter on countertops than to get stuck in the blade of your stickblender. But again, those lye beads on your floor or counters will become soda ash given enough time and humidity.



I started wondering about lye turning to soda ash. I found a figure 1800 mg/m3  for CO2 concentration of room air. A single molecule of CO2 will react with two NaOH molecules, the molecular weights are 44g/mol for CO2 and 40g/mol for NaOH, so to turn a gram of lye into soda ash would take about half a gram of CO2, which would be the equivalent of about 300 liters of air working its way into the lye. Then again, lye grains are way less than a gram so it would be like three liters of air, which is still a lot of air to penetrate into a solid object.

But that's beside the point, as you say we'd be realistically looking at homeopathic dilutions of sodium hydroxide by the time you get to cooking.


----------



## AliOop

Hertzyscowicz said:


> I started wondering about lye turning to soda ash. I found a figure 1800 mg/m3  for CO2 concentration of room air. A single molecule of CO2 will react with two NaOH molecules, the molecular weights are 44g/mol for CO2 and 40g/mol for NaOH, so to turn a gram of lye into soda ash would take about half a gram of CO2, which would be the equivalent of about 300 liters of air working its way into the lye. Then again, lye grains are way less than a gram so it would be like three liters of air, which is still a lot of air to penetrate into a solid object.
> 
> But that's beside the point, as you say we'd be realistically looking at homeopathic dilutions of sodium hydroxide by the time you get to cooking.


Interesting info, but my understanding is lye is hygroscopic (attracts water from the atmosphere), and that it's actually the water (H20) in the air that is reacting with the NaOH - not the CO2. But I supposed it could be both? Perhaps @DeeAnna could weigh in here.


----------



## Hertzyscowicz

AliOop said:


> Interesting info, but my understanding is lye is hygroscopic (attracts water from the atmosphere), and that it's actually the water (H20) in the air that is reacting with the NaOH - not the CO2. But I supposed it could be both? Perhaps @DeeAnna could weigh in here.



Hygroscopic means it absorbs water from the air. However, to get a carbonate you need to get carbon from somewhere, and that is where the CO2 is needed.


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## AliOop

Thanks for clarifying. Would it be correct to say that the first or fastest reaction is for the lye grain to draw water to itself and become wet/diluted? and from there, it would mix with the CO2 to gradually produce sodium carbonate (soda ash) and thus no longer be the caustic NaOH of which the previous poster was so terrified?

I want to be clear that I actually do use separate utensils now, but mostly because I don't want to cart stuff back and forth between kitchen and soaping room (home office by day). However, before my soaping room came into being, I made soap for years with the same crockpot and stick blender that were used to make food. Not only do I doubt that any grain of lye could escape unscathed through the soaping and clean-up process, I also doubt that once dispersed into my food, that it would do any harm.


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## pink-north

Prysm said:


> Lye is a caustic, and should be handled with care. Safety googles and protective clothing should be used throughout the process. Also, lye mixed in water gets HOT fast. So always mix cold water or whatever liquid your using with the lye-never use hot or warm liquids. In general, you will use about 2 times the amount of water as lye, but can err on the side of caution with a 2.5:1 ratio- that is, use 2.5 times as much water, by weight, as lye.


I would not recommend this, but instead reiterate the importance of using a reliable soap calculator.



Consuela said:


> If it was me I might even include a quick blurb that you can double check your recipes by hand with some simple math and a SAP chart, but this isn't necessarily the norm nor is it necessarily best practice for brand new soap makers without understanding the math and science behind it.
> (I mean, I do all of my calculations by hand but that's because that's how I learned and it was outlined in the first soap-making book I was given. There was a whole chapter dedicated to it and math problems to solve. Because you know, grade 10 math wasn't traumatizing enough.)


If you were to add this, perhaps creating a section for extras or bonus information. Something for the individual who can handle the math.



Consuela said:


> K. I'm being beckoned now by my small humans ...


Lol. Keep the tiny humans safe and loved.



Prysm said:


> Lye is a caustic, and should be handled with care. Safety googles and protective clothing should be used throughout the process.


Perhaps you could mention having vinegar on hand in case some lye water spills on your skin.

All in all I think this is a pretty good guide. Good luck with your endeavor.


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## Marsi

Great work Prysm!

A small point (for an update to your notes):
If quality stainless steel is suitable for mixing lye solutions and soap batter, it would also make sense to state that it is suitable in the mold category (it is currently excluded from your list of mold materials).

Side note: On Pryex, I went to the website of the manufacturer of Pyrex and other scientific vessels (Corning).
On page 104 of https://www.corning.com/catalog/cls/documents/selection-guides/CLS-GL-001.pdf, they state the following (my bolding):



> Technical Information
> 
> Warnings and Suggestions for the Safe Use of PYREX® and PYREXPLUS®
> Brand Labware
> 
> *Glass will be chemically attacked by* hydrofluoric acid, hot
> phosphoric acid, and *strong hot alkalis*, so *it should never be
> used to contain or to process these materials.*



So I take the view that using Pyrex (or any glass) to mix hot lye solutions is an absolute no-no.

There is no way I would recommend Pyrex (to anyone, and especially not to a beginner) to mix an exothermic (heat producing) alkali solution, where the manufacturer themselves specifically advise against the practice of using PYREX and PYREXPLUS for hot alkalis.

For the person who adds their lye slowly, in an ice bath, so they can use Pyrex ... I seriously can't be bothered with this level of fuss when there are much safer alternatives to Pyrex (and simpler preparation proceedures) available for this task.

But, that's all just to back up my own experience - I have found nearly every way possible to break glass, and I'm not going to risk glass shards in my hot soap batter if I accidently drop the vessel as I'm pouring (I have done this too, but without the shards ... I save my pyrex to eventually break it while I'm washing it).


----------



## Marsi

pink-north said:


> Perhaps you could mention having vinegar on hand in case some lye water spills on your skin.


The CDC (ATSDR) state that *neutralizing substances should not be used (for Skin Exposure)*.
Vinegar is a neutralizing substance.
Vinegar and caustic together generate heat (it is an exothermic reaction).
The resulting reaction (from the use of vinegar on a lye solution spilt on skin) can add heat burns to the affected area of skin.

Prompt and lengthy irrigation with water is less damaging to skin.

Use water.

.
For viewing the source yourself, (it's a REALLY long document), search the term "skin exposure" - the quote is near the end of the document.





						Sodium Hydroxide | Medical Management Guidelines | Toxic Substance Portal | ATSDR
					






					wwwn.cdc.gov
				





> Skin Exposure​
> Skin burns from sodium hydroxide should be irrigated frequently with normal saline for 24 hours. Consider early (within 1 hour of exposure) institution of continuous                    hydrotherapy. *Neutralizing substances should not be used*. Fluid resuscitation should be provided as for comparable thermal burns; keeping in mind that the full extent of the sodium hydroxide burn may not be accurately assessed for 24 to 48 hours and may be underestimated initially.


(quoted from the CDC/Agency for Toxic Substances and Diseases Registry)


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## AliOop

pink-north said:


> Perhaps you could mention having vinegar on hand in case some lye water spills on your skin.


I agree with @Marsi - never use vinegar to neutralize lye on skin. It makes the burn worse! Following the manufacturer's safety recommendation, which is to flush with cool running water, and to seek medical attention if it is a significant burn, or if it involves contact with mucous membranes.


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## Zany_in_CO

I've learned the best thing for lye burns is lavender oil. Soothes burns immediately and heals without scarring. I keep a small bottle of 5% lavender in jojoba oil handy in my soap box with all my other stuff. Ready to go when I am.


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## Dee38753

CatahoulaBubble said:


> I think you should add that a scale that has grams or ounces is important for weighing out the oils and lye and that you want to go by weight and not by volume.


Very important


----------



## Relle

pink-north said:


> Perhaps you could mention having vinegar on hand in case some lye water spills on your skin.


As others have said that's a no-no, never do that.


----------



## Marsi

Zany_in_CO said:


> I've learned the best thing for lye burns is lavender oil. Soothes burns immediately and heals without scarring. I keep a small bottle of 5% lavender in jojoba oil handy in my soap box with all my other stuff. Ready to go when I am.


Do you rinse the lye off your skin with water first?

I've had spills and splashes on various parts of my body (clumsy, that's me) over the years, so I have got into the habit of getting as much of it off as possible by immediately flushing with (cool/cold) running water, before I even think about applying any other burn treatment.

On burn treatments (not knocking your jojoba/lavendar blend, just adding another choice) ... my personal preference is fresh aloe vera gel to treat mild burns ... more because I always have some, know it works and it costs me nothing ... I have a pot of it growing by the kitchen door


----------



## Hertzyscowicz

AliOop said:


> Thanks for clarifying. Would it be correct to say that the first or fastest reaction is for the lye grain to draw water to itself and become wet/diluted? and from there, it would mix with the CO2 to gradually produce sodium carbonate (soda ash) and thus no longer be the caustic NaOH of which the previous poster was so terrified?



With water, the CO2 has a better chance of penetrating into the mixture, and new molecules of NaOH will move in as ones near the liquid surface react, so the reaction will happen a lot faster. That is how you end up with soda ash on top of uncovered soap.

And, as another comment on the risks of sodium hydroxide in food, stomach acid contains hydrochloric acid. Unless the concentration is enough to leave chemical burns in your upper digestive tract, HCl and NaOH react into NaCl and H2O, or table salt and water.


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## backwoods_8589

Instructions must answer:  how, what, when, where, why, who, and assume reader knows nothing.For instance; what is nonreactive? or why not use pyrex or glass, or what happens when water added to lye volcanoes?{skin burned and scarred, vision destroyed, furniture damaged}, trace, what is that, a line on a paper? or a visible ridge left on my pudding as I mix? Simple process, yes, but focas, precision, and safety lead. Measure to the most precise degree possible. Grams is more precise than ounces. Stick blender is essential{and a spare} to get a new maker through the process. Most of us are too lazy and impatient to hand stir to trace. The goal has got to be to expand homemade stuff and ditch the chemical laden soap we use on our bodies. Pictures are a great tool. And last, I do not recommend anything plastic being used in the microwave, recommended or not


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## Johnez

I see the lye in pyrex argument is alive and well. 

My two issues with pyrex:

It has cheapened and is not the same stuff as was made in the '70s. Some pyrex is borosilicate, not all of it is though, and there's no real way to tell. Some say if the name is capitalized, I'm doubtful. Regardless, I can't trust something I don't know what the make up is.

Etching and heat. This is just a bad combo with glass. Some may say they can stick it in the oven, well that's true. Lye hearts up VERY quickly though, and the problem is IMO with the speed of the heating, not so much whether pyrex can handle the heat. Much of the pyrex I've got has very specific warnings not to stick the containers over a burner. Sudden heat+etching...why chance it???

 Brambleberry CEO most likely uses those big clear containers for demonstration purposes. It's easier to see, and handle probably with the weight and looks more elegant than some PP containers.

Final thoughts: if we have a good material to use in PP, why bother with Pyrex?


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## earlene

pink-north said:


> I would not recommend this, but instead reiterate the importance of using a reliable soap calculator.


Prysm's instructions here under 'Safety' is good and does not contradict how a calculator can be used.  She already mentions using a calculator at least twice at the top part of the document.

In addition, and really for another post or perhaps and advanced soapmaking instructional document, I would go so far as to suggest that serious soapmakers really should learn to use sap value charts and gain some rudimentary skill that would allow them to make soap without access to the internet because the potential exists that the day may come when it is necessary.

Or if a veteran soapmaker uses the same recipe(s) over and over again and rarely varies from that, they can certainly make soap without always running it through a calculator. I've done that when repeating the same recipes time and again.  (Of course I did use a calculator to create those recipes, and if I alter anything about them, use a calculator again.)

But, I have often been in situations without internet access, and I am sure there are a lot of soapmakers in parts of the world where the use of an internet dependent lye calculator is less available than it may be to many of us here.  So knowing how to make soap safely without one is a really good idea.  In fact at one point I used a non-internet dependent lye calculator ap on an older mobile phone, but I don't have it anymore, and do not recall the name of it, so have not even been able to find it again to re-install.  There is a calculator app that the developer is planning to become offline-usable, so that's promising.  I believe that SoapMaker3 is still usable without an internet connection.  Many soapmakers use SM3, however many prefer to use one of the free internet accessible ones, for obvious financial reasons.


pink-north said:


> If you were to add this, perhaps creating a section for extras or bonus information. Something for the individual who can handle the math.


That goes along with what I said above.  I do believe knowing how to do this without the aid of internet access or even free-standing lye calculators is wise.


pink-north said:


> Lol. Keep the tiny humans safe and loved.
> 
> 
> Perhaps you could mention having vinegar on hand in case some lye water spills on your skin.


NO.  Vinegar will only increase the exothermic reaction of lye upon contact.  Dilution with (cool) water is what is recommended by the medical community and by a huge number of well-versed soapmakers.

As said by others before me (also a medical professional, retired.)


----------



## Minerva's Curious Physick

Hertzyscowicz said:


> As for keeping the implements separate, sodium hydroxide is a component in dishwasher detergent, soap can also be used for washing dishes, and oils can be cleaned off containers and implements with either. I don't think a starting soapmaker needs to shell out for a spare stick blender or extra pots and pans. I occasionally use lye to wash particularly greasy dishes.


This has already been beaten to death, but I agree that this is an unnecessary hurdle to put in front of new soapers! Wiser to focus on the most necessary, agreed-on practices so we don't overcomplicate things for noobs. (Personally, I just don't have enough room for duplicate equipment.)

Q: Do you already have a visual for trace? Easier to recognize trace if they have photos to work off! I'll hunt for pics we can use here without stepping on toes...



Zany_in_CO said:


> You can imagine my delight when I recently learned that Amazon is now offering *Borosilicate Glass Measuring Cups for "Commercial Use."*
> 
> _Durable borosilicate glass can be heated from 32°f (0 °C) to 450° F (232 °C)._


This is definitely going in my shopping cart; thank you!


----------



## Zany_in_CO

Minerva's Curious Physick said:


> This is definitely going in my shopping cart; thank you!


You're welcome!


----------



## Marsi

Minerva's Curious Physick said:


> This has already been beaten to death, but I agree that this is an unnecessary hurdle to put in front of new soapers! Wiser to focus on the most necessary, agreed-on practices so we don't overcomplicate things for noobs. (Personally, I just don't have enough room for duplicate equipment.)
> 
> Q: Do you already have a visual for trace? Easier to recognize trace if they have photos to work off! I'll hunt for pics we can use here without stepping on toes...
> 
> 
> This is definitely going in my shopping cart; thank you!



"Q: Do you already have a visual for trace?"





						Stickblending to Emulsion
					

I thought I would re-do the video about SB'ing to emulsion because it was embedded in a video about something else, but I think recognizing emulsion and when to stop so you can work more with your batter is really helpful. Many people mention their batter getting too thick for what they are...




					www.soapmakingforum.com
				








						Emulsion, Trace, False Trace, and Acceleration
					

Lisa of I Dream in Soap just posted an excellent video demonstrating this. Thought it would be helpful to share here.




					www.soapmakingforum.com


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## SoapySuds

I mean, you could write a book on it and post it here, with all the last details. But this is good.
If someone is serious, they will buy a book and read all the fine details there. But this is good.
Other than the grammar errors, this is great.
Cold process should be mentioned and if someone wants to know what 'trace' is or other terms, it's a great place to point people to the search bar and use it to find out what these things mean in the forum.


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## mrsserena

ThinLizzie59 said:


> I have a question, and recommendation, about this particular bulleted warning sentence….
> 
> "Nonreactive pitcher or container to mix lye into water (NOT PYREX OR GLASS!!!!)"
> 
> The question is Why?
> Pyrex is tempered glass, specially designed to withstand the heat of a furnace or flame.
> As a Chef, I’ve used pyrex ovenware on the BBQ, under the Broiler, and in the Oven.
> It’s specifically created to withstand extreme temperatures without breaking.  The large Pyrex mixing-bowls are equipped with handles.  Incidentally, Brambleberry’s founder (and President) uses them when  doing her “How-To Video” segments for You-Tube, and also recommends their use.
> I think, personally, that this quote I’ve taken in-question is misleading and inaccurate.  Would you like to respond? If not, I recommend the changes, to reflect this. With the First Warning to be:
> 
> * The Equipment MUST be kept specifically FOR SOAP PRODUCTION ONLY!  Never use, or allow the interchange, of any hardware used in SOAP preparation, later, for FOOD production.
> *  Only the use of branded “PYREX” glass, or stainless-steel, or Silicone for the mixing of lye and oils in the soap-production process.
> 
> These are my recommendations. Does anyone agree or disagree?
> 
> Thank you, ThinLizzie
> 
> 
> I use and highly recommend the use of surgical gloves, if you don’t like using rubber-gloves.  Just ONE splash of lye-water will help you to understand why!
> There’s a REASON why they use lye to dissolve dead bodies. It works FAST to dissolve flesh and bone to a ‘pourable liquid.’  And LYE burns like HELL!


They've changed the formula for pyrex glass, and it is no longer resistant to the lye chemical.  So it's not the heat, but the chemistry that is a concern.


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## psfred

"Pyrex" is just a trade name, unless the container was made by Corning before 1990 (or maybe earlier) it's just tempered glass.

Look for the small R in a circle after "Pyrex" as that is the trademark for the "real" stuff (borosilicate glass, not plain silica glass).

Story I heard was that someone got all excited about borosilicate glass leaching boron and possibly poisoning people, but while it does indeed leach borates with very long contact, it really requires serious etching to cause any real issues.  The result was that real "Pyrex" is off the market and it's no longer possible to buy borosilicate glass for home use.  Hence the detonating baking dishes, etc.


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## cmzaha

It is so easy to buy HDPE buckets at any hardware or paint store, they have wide bottoms and are microwave safe. So why bother with cheap flimsy dollar store measuring cups or pyrex glass measuring cups that can explode? I still have a few of my original buckets that have been used since day 1 of soaping and I made a lot of soap. I also used them to make masterbatch up to 10 or so batches so I would always be ready to soap, by just melting my oils in the microwave until just cloudy.


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## Minerva's Curious Physick

Marsi said:


> "Q: Do you already have a visual for trace?"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stickblending to Emulsion
> 
> 
> I thought I would re-do the video about SB'ing to emulsion because it was embedded in a video about something else, but I think recognizing emulsion and when to stop so you can work more with your batter is really helpful. Many people mention their batter getting too thick for what they are...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.soapmakingforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Emulsion, Trace, False Trace, and Acceleration
> 
> 
> Lisa of I Dream in Soap just posted an excellent video demonstrating this. Thought it would be helpful to share here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.soapmakingforum.com


Videos like this are so helpful (they also helped me learn how to stickblend soap batter without incorporating air bubbles when I was a complete noob--pulse while pressing against the bottom of the pot/pitcher, stir, pulse, stir, always keep the tip submerged)


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## msunnerstood

A couple of things;

In the introduction section there are no paragraph breaks and I think having that long of a section with no break will make people skip over it.

I would also put the safety section before the Gathering the ingredients section.


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## Journey

Hi,

Been reading and re-reading this thread.

1)  A question I have is:  _* What is NaOH  ? *_ It showed it in the second screen capture but did not define what it is. 

2)   Then later on, there is talk of NaOh and a mol?   What is a mol? And what is CO2 ? (Thanks)


> I started wondering about lye turning to soda ash. I found a figure 1800 mg/m3  for CO2 concentration of room air. A single molecule of CO2 will react with two NaOH molecules, the molecular weights are 44g/mol for CO2 and 40g/mol for NaOH, so to turn a gram of lye into soda ash would take about half a gram of CO2, which would be the equivalent of about 300 liters of air working its way into the lye. Then again, lye grains are way less than a gram so it would be like three liters of air, which is still a lot of air to penetrate into a solid object.





Prysm said:


> *Steps to making your first batch*
> 
> Step 4: _*Once both your lye solution and your oils are 120 degrees or less, add the lye water slowly to the oils,*_ and stir well.




1) About the temperature,  does this mean the lye mixture *AND* oil mixture have to be the same temperature?
2) Or both just under 120 degrees? 
3) Or  do they have to be within a 10-15 degree range of each other and its still OK to mix? 

4) And is there a "working range" ( a highest working range of 120 and a lowest working range of  XXX) of temperatures?  For example, say the temperatures of the lye and oil mix drops to 80 degrees?  Is it still workable?   OR would it need to be re-heated?


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## Hertzyscowicz

Journey said:


> Hi,
> 
> Been reading and re-reading this thread.
> 
> 1)  A question I have is:  _* What is NaOH  ? *_ It showed it in the second screen capture but did not define what it is.
> 
> 2)   Then later on, there is talk of NaOh and a mol?   What is a mol? And what is CO2 ? (Thanks)



NaOH is the chemical formula for Sodium Hydroxide, the sort of lye you use to make solid soap. I think NaOh is a typo and it should say NaOH. CO2 is Carbon Dioxide. As for mol, it is the symbol for Mole, the SI unit for amount of substance, defined as around 6*10^23 molecules.


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## TheGecko

Journey said:


> 1)  A question I have is:  _* What is NaOH  ? *_ It showed it in the second screen capture but did not define what it is.
> 
> 2)   Then later on, there is talk of NaOh and a mol?   What is a mol? And what is CO2 ? (Thanks)



NaOh is the chemical formula of Sodium Hydroxide also referred to as "Lye" or "Caustic Soda".  

I believe "Mol" is the abbreviation for "Mole"; the unit of amount of substance in the International System of Units (SI).  CO2 is chemical formula for Carbon Dioxide.


Journey said:


> 1) About the temperature,  does this mean the lye mixture *AND* oil mixture have to be the same temperature?
> 2) Or both just under 120 degrees?
> 3) Or  do they have to be within a 10-15 degree range of each other and its still OK to mix?
> 
> 4) And is there a "working range" ( a highest working range of 120 and a lowest working range of  XXX) of temperatures?  For example, say the temperatures of the lye and oil mix drops to 80 degrees?  Is it still workable?   OR would it need to be re-heated?


Yes and no.  The post you referenced does use the word 'and' so the answer is 'yes'.  As to "have to"....the answer is "no".  It has always been a basic 'rule of thumb' for recommend that BEGINNING soap makers use single temperature for both Oils and Lye Solution; it is not only safer, but it is more likely to insure success.  When I first started, both my Oils and Lye Solution were at 110F, but as I progressed and gained more experience and knowledge and familiarity with my combination of oils and butters, my Oils are generally around 120F and my Lye Solution is around 70F.  That is MY personal preference...your mileage will vary.


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## Journey

Thank you for the wonderful answers. 

And wow, about the temperature, and yes that does make sense.


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## Zing

Journey said:


> Hi,
> 
> Been reading and re-reading this thread.
> 
> 1)  A question I have is:  _* What is NaOH  ? *_ It showed it in the second screen capture but did not define what it is.
> 
> 2)   Then later on, there is talk of NaOh and a mol?   What is a mol? And what is CO2 ? (Thanks)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) About the temperature,  does this mean the lye mixture *AND* oil mixture have to be the same temperature?
> 2) Or both just under 120 degrees?
> 3) Or  do they have to be within a 10-15 degree range of each other and its still OK to mix?
> 
> 4) And is there a "working range" ( a highest working range of 120 and a lowest working range of  XXX) of temperatures?  For example, say the temperatures of the lye and oil mix drops to 80 degrees?  Is it still workable?   OR would it need to be re-heated?


When I first started, I was obsessed with temperatures but threw out my thermometers long ago.  When my heated oil pot, and my lye solution pitcher, are just warm to the touch (touching the outside of the container), I mix them together.  In the summer I even soap at room temperature.  

When you add the lye solution to the oil mixture, it will heat up naturally and start to trace (get thick).  If you soap over 120 degrees when things are hot to start with, it'll get to trace very quickly.  I like to soap at cooler temperatures because I make designs and want more time.

I want my oil mixture warm enough so that it is clear and transparent.  I do not want my oil mixture cool because the solid oils turn it opaque.

I hope that helps.  Welcome to the forum!


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