Wondering if HP is better than CP in humid climates

[rics]

It's not very hot but very humid where I stay ( tropical climate and near sea)...I was wondering if its a better idea to use HP instead of CP -
1. as it will reduce cure time - from 4 to may b only 2 weeks
2. I can package soap earlier in plastic

I face a lot of DOS and sweating...so wondering if HP is the way to go rather than CP.

Any ideas??

Thanks for help and suggestions.

 

[neeners]

oohh...great question. i'm interested in answers as well.....

 

[judymoody]

You could do CP but with a water discount which would also limit evaporation from the finished soap.

 

[rics]

You could do CP but with a water discount which would also limit evaporation from the finished soap.

Judymoody, thanks for the suggestion. But I am already doing a water discount and use 20% instead of 38%.
The issue I face is my soap starts sweating within 5,6 hours of making because of the glycerin in it, and the humid climate. It makes me worried about the life of the soap. And DOS. I have already got DOS is a 3 week old coconut, palm, olive soap. ....

So wondering if HP is better, as I can package the soap in plastic in 1 week itself (since HP takes lesser time to cure).. This would reduce the time my soap comes in contact with the humid air. I have tried dessicants and fan and AC already....


Need expert views on my thoughts.
Thanks all!


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[kazmi]

I would give it a try. Sounds like hp may be a good choice for you in your weather conditions since hp cooks a good portion of the water out. You will still have a cure time because I don't think hp cooks out all of the water though.

 

[sistrum]

HP won't change the glycerin sweating. But you might as well give it a try. I would use a 33% lye solution, leave the lid off the Crockpot when cooking, add all your oils at the beginning and be sure to mound up the top of you soaps so when they shrink you don't get "shrunken head syndrome". Good luck

 

[roseb]

HP won't change the glycerin sweating. But you might as well give it a try. I would use a 33% lye solution, leave the lid off the Crockpot when cooking, add all your oils at the beginning and be sure to mound up the top of you soaps so when they shrink you don't get "shrunken head syndrome". Good luck

Thanks for the tip on the shrunken head syndrome...bit of the problem with that. LOL

I also live in a humid climate and I do HP with a 33% water discount and have not had any problems since I started doing HP. Before I did have one batch that got DOS which was CP. However, I do leave the lid on for the whole cook. Watch the video below...I have been using this method and don't have all the hard spots that some people get with HP.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhoI44OEKkQ&list=TL0mfRbMRpdYA[/ame]

Good luck and keep us updated.

 

[rics]

Thanks for the advice sistrum.. Excellent advice!
Will definitely try to avoid SHS syndrome in HP..
and thanks for the words of encouragement roseb.



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[new12soap]

No, IME HP soap does not cure faster. It only goes thru saponification faster. you are talking about a difference of maybe 3 days over a period of 6 weeks. why is your soap sweating? are you adding glycerin to it? I live in a sub-tropical hot humid climate and my soaps don't sweat, so I don't think the problem is location.

if you are getting a lot of DOS as well, maybe take a look at your recipe and your process. harder oils and butters tend to be more stable, some people have said that rosemary oleoresin and/or vit e may help. do NOT use wire racks to cure your soaps, keep them out of direct sunlight, etc.

 

[rics]

No, IME HP soap does not cure faster. It only goes thru saponification faster. you are talking about a difference of maybe 3 days over a period of 6 weeks. why is your soap sweating? are you adding glycerin to it? I live in a sub-tropical hot humid climate and my soaps don't sweat, so I don't think the problem is location.

if you are getting a lot of DOS as well, maybe take a look at your recipe and your process. harder oils and butters tend to be more stable, some people have said that rosemary oleoresin and/or vit e may help. do NOT use wire racks to cure your soaps, keep them out of direct sunlight, etc.

Thanks for the reply new12soap.i do not add additional glycerin to the soap (apart from what is created due to saponification process itself). Also the soap that got DOS within 3 weeks of cure itself was coconut,palm, olive, ( no soft oils).. I do CP, mostly with 20% water discount...I add lye water to oils at room temp. And hand-stir till trace.
I'm yet to give vitamin e and roe a shot. Will do it ASAP.


Since u soap in humid climate too, could u please tell me which oils u use, any additives that may help prevent sweating and your storage method..


Thanks for your help!


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[Chookie2]

IMHO The water discount may be a little high and so leaving too much oil in solution in the soap , thus causing the sweating. Maybe try to up the water a little and see if it changes anything? The only real way to discover the problem is to keep making soap exactly the same way and change one thing each time until it is gone.
Good luck.

 

[rics]

IMHO The water discount may be a little high and so leaving too much oil in solution in the soap , thus causing the sweating. Maybe try to up the water a little and see if it changes anything? The only real way to discover the problem is to keep making soap exactly the same way and change one thing each time until it is gone.
Good luck.

Hi chookie2. I have tried both 20% and 38% water discount, and found that both types sweat. But 20% hardened faster, making unmolding easier. So I continued to use 20% discount. Also the chances of water evaporating is less due to the humidity in air in our climate. And that's why the water discount.

I also tried salt as an additive but saw it attracted more moisture so stopped...
I agree changing one thing at a time will help me know where I am going wrong. But it will be good to know from other soapers who soap in humid climates what they do to avoid sweating and improve soap life despite humid conditions.

Thanks

 

[pai]

Hi chookie2. I have tried both 20% and 38% water discount, and found that both types sweat. But 20% hardened faster, making unmolding easier. So I continued to use 20% discount. Also the chances of water evaporating is less due to the humidity in air in our climate. And that's why the water discount.

I also tried salt as an additive but saw it attracted more moisture so stopped...
I agree changing one thing at a time will help me know where I am going wrong. But it will be good to know from other soapers who soap in humid climates what they do to avoid sweating and improve soap life despite humid conditions.

Thanks

Hi,
I am also soaping in hot/humid climate and had the same sweating problem. I am now curing the soap on racks, with 1 lightbulb on the bottom. i cover most of the contraption but leave enough gaps for air circulation and it is working great.

 

[rics]

Hi,
I am also soaping in hot/humid climate and had the same sweating problem. I am now curing the soap on racks, with 1 lightbulb on the bottom. i cover most of the contraption but leave enough gaps for air circulation and it is working great.

Thanks so much For the suggestion Pai. Did you buy the contraption or is it homemade. Also does it matter if its wood or plastic? Do you still take care of which oils you may use to avoid sweatibg, or due to the contraption you need not woody about it... Thanks again for the help.


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[pai]

Thanks so much For the suggestion Pai. Did you buy the contraption or is it homemade. Also does it matter if its wood or plastic? Do you still take care of which oils you may use to avoid sweatibg, or due to the contraption you need not woody about it... Thanks again for the help.


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Hi rics,

I used a pre built wooden open cupboard with 5 shelves. basically 5 shelves with legs,no walls,no doors. the shelves have gaps so the light can go through. and i covered it with a sheet. i will try to upload a photo sometime today as it will explain way better.
the wood stained the soap till i started putting paper under the soap. maybe plastic is better. don't know..
i had a very soggy batch(put too much pumpkin...)and even it dried in this, so i guess you can use any oil. i am only doing coconut oil for now

 

[DeeAnna]

"...The water discount may be a little high and so leaving too much oil in solution in the soap..."

Unless I'm really missing the boat here, the water "discount" being discussed means using less water, but not using less lye. There shouldn't be any more free oil (superfat) in a properly made soap using a 33% NaOH solution compared with a soap made with a 28% NaOH solution. The total amount of NaOH would be the same in both cases, just less water is needed to make the 33% solution.

 

[pai]

Hi rics,

I used a pre built wooden open cupboard with 5 shelves. basically 5 shelves with legs,no walls,no doors. the shelves have gaps so the light can go through. and i covered it with a sheet. i will try to upload a photo sometime today as it will explain way better.
the wood stained the soap till i started putting paper under the soap. maybe plastic is better. don't know..
i had a very soggy batch(put too much pumpkin...)and even it dried in this, so i guess you can use any oil. i am only doing coconut oil for now

here(i hope) is the photo-

 

[rics]

here(i hope) is the photo-

Hey Pai. Appreciate the response and pic. Thanks so much. Gives me courage to soap in humid climes too. Your soaps looks lovely and white. Thanks again!


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[rics]

Deeanna, yes I was referring to less water when I say water discount. I don't use less lye than suggested by the soap calc.


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