Whitening problem after unmolding.

[Bilemiyorum Altan]

Hello ,
Yesterday I made a batch with colour (mica) and poured in to molds.
First I poured the coloured layer in to mold and later(a few minutes later) the uncoloured layer.
Today in the morning I unmolded them.
They were good at the beginning , the colour was well saturated orange copper brownish.
The colour was equal and solid homogenic.
But in one hour the colour-the surface turned in to white layer.
It is like covered with white dust.
Like soda ash - maybe it is soda ash I don't know.
I have three theories.
1- I did not mix the batch enough.
2-I did not wait enough to unmold.
3-Both
You can see the recipe in the pictures.
I added %1 liquid sodium lactate (30 grams). In to lye-water solution after it cooled down.
And added 2.5 teaspoon of titanium dioxide. After ı mixed the batch for 10 minutes.
Do you have any idea about it or help about it why the colour-saturation has gone?

 

[Bilemiyorum Altan]

Checked them again , that white layer looks like soda ash
I am living this problem alot...

 

[lsg]

Making sure the soap goes through the gel phase can help prevent soda ash. You can also spray with the top of the soap right after pouring with isopropyl alcohol.

 

[dmcgee5034]

Also, try covering with plastic wrap for a few days after unmolding. Between the isopropyl alcohol spritz and the plastic wrap, I’ve beat the soda ash monster.

 

[KiwiMoose]

The alcohol won't be much use on the cavity molds - because it's after they're turned out that the ash grows. Some people suggest leaving them in the mold for as long as you can - even a week. That will help somewhat.
Steaming them will also get rid of soda ash. I have been known to literally hold them over a boiling kettle to steam it off. Of course I don't need to remind you to be careful of burning yourself when doing do.

 

[Ford]

Hello, like the others. Spritz, wrap after pouring. I also cover curing bars. Sitting on the shelf. With a thin piece. Of regular plastic. A piece of cheese cloth or light linen may work also.

 

[Zing]

GREAT looking soap there! Congrats! Ditto to all the above. I've learned when using single cavity molds to leave 'em be for a week before unmolding.

 

[ScentimentallyYours]

The ash is appearing because the soap didn’t fully saponify before it was turned out of the mold. If your cavity molds are silicone, you can gel the soaps in the oven leading just the oven light on. Don’t heat the oven too much or you can get silicone rash, which will be worse!

 

[Bilemiyorum Altan]

I should have mixed longer.
I should have waited longer to unmold them.
I am making same mistakes over and over

 

[dmcgee5034]

…and learning along the way, @Bilemiyorum Altan

 

[VikingChick]

I should have mixed longer.
I should have waited longer to unmold them.
I am making same mistakes over and over

Don’t beat yourself up…..we’ve all been there! Just take good notes, be patient (my Achilles’ heel!), and learn as you go. Soda ash is the most benign thing that can happen - it’s totally cosmetic and your soap, I’m sure, is still wonderful to use.

 

[art flora]

Hi Altan,
go for water:lye ratio as 1.5:1 but be careful soap batter will trace quickly due to water discounting. This is advance level of soaping techniques.

 

[MelissaG]

Water discount will help. I do 1.8:1. I found it traces to quickly at 1.5 for my taste but 2 makes it take too long for me to remove it from the mold. I've been tempted to try a 1.7 to see if it helps unmold quicker but doesn't give me problems with soda ash but haven't done it yet.

 

[Bilemiyorum Altan]

Hi Altan,
go for water:lye ratio as 1.5:1 but be careful soap batter will trace quickly due to water discounting. This is advance level of soaping techniques.

Water discount will help. I do 1.8:1. I found it traces to quickly at 1.5 for my taste but 2 makes it take too long for me to remove it from the mold. I've been tempted to try a 1.7 to see if it helps unmold quicker but doesn't give me problems with soda ash but haven't done it yet.

I never went down less then water as % of oils :30
It scares me.
And I could not decide for a few days what kind of recipe I should try .
And lost in :
*Water discount.
*Percentage of palm oil .
*Coconut oil+palm kernel or just coconut oil?
*Percentage of olive oil...
I think I will be paused for a while.

 

[AliOop]

I never went down less then water as % of oils :30

Water as percent of oils is a different measurement than the others are using. It can be very inconsistent between batches. Try using Lye Concentration instead. Then you don't have to figure any "discount" - you simply raise that number in the calculator so there is less water. A 33% lye concentration is fairly typical for CP; a 37% concentration will reduce the water and help reduce the white soda ash, too.

 

[Bilemiyorum Altan]

Water as percent of oils is a different measurement than the others are using. It can be very inconsistent between batches. Try using Lye Concentration instead. Then you don't have to figure any "discount" - you simply raise that number in the calculator so there is less water. A 33% lye concentration is fairly typical for CP; a 37% concentration will reduce the water and help reduce the white soda ash, too.

OMG

That means I was changing wrong number about water amount for the lye...

Thank you...
yes I should use Lye Concentration or water lye ratio ...


edit:
Oil amount also effects lye amount direct proportion but it is inconsistent like you said.
,Because lye amount always changes differently for the different oil types and oil amount.

 

[K.C.]

I use a hand held steamer on my soda ash after removing from the mold and before cutting. Like Kiwimoose said be careful, I checked my watch and steamed my upper arm!