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A friend of mine who is putting on a local product show just sent me a text message today BEGGING me to have a table of soap. The last one was extremely successful so she's expecting 400 people at this one. I'm trying to think this through but she needs an answer soon, since the show is in 2 weeks. I know this would be a fabulous opportunity to get my name/product out there.

I just don't know if I have enough bars ready to go, but I don't know how much inventory I should have for a show of that size. Any ideas?

If I were to be able to make several batches this weekend, 2 weeks is not a long enough cure time, is it? Even if I discounted my liquid, etc.... I don't want to hurt anyone or have an inferior product.

Any thoughts out there that can help me make this decision? I won't be able to check the forum for the rest of the day, but I appreciate any thoughts anyone has and will have internet again tomorrow. Thank you!!!!!
 
I do CP so I wouldn't sell my soap at 2 weeks under any circumstances. But, I do think that you can make HP and use it right away. However, if you're not experienced in that it might not be a good idea to sell that either.
 
2 weeks is not a lot of cure time. But if you have already got soap made and ready why not just use what you already have.

How much soap do you have made now? Why not just take whatever you have, give it try and see how you do? Even if you only have a small amount of bars, if you sold them all and had to leave early, at least you sold them all ! :D
 
I briefly thought of doing HP to get more bars made, and then realized that I can't start experimenting with that technique now. :shock: That sounds disastrous! :)
 
I did HP for my very first batch. I find it much easier than CP because no worries about temps. Give it a whirl. You might be surprised. Use less fragrance though. Good luck!
 
Juicybath--you really think it's easier? Do you know of any tutorials that you recommend? I've wanted to try HP for awhile, but I don't want do it in desperation just to have something to sell. But if it's not hard to do it successfully....

And by the way, you have a very good point, jwoodcrafts. My friend and I are going to chat tomorrow and I'll just tell her where I'm at and it will be her call.

I didn't think a 2 week cure time was feasible, but I just wanted somebody to tell me differently! :wink:
 
Thank you so much JP!
I'm having so much fun learning and this forum is fabulous and so helpful. To be honest with you, I learned how to do HP by watching videos on YouTube. Just do a search for hot process soap and you should find a bunch.
 
juicypeach Hp is easier, no worries, throw it all in and let it do it's thing. Watch a couple of videos. When the island disapears I give it another 10 min and then give it the zap test. I keep doing that every 10 min. till I don't get zapped....then add my color and FO's and I'm done.
 
Justpeachy said:
Do you know of any tutorials that you recommend? I've wanted to try HP for awhile, but I don't want do it in desperation just to have something to sell. But if it's not hard to do it successfully....

This was a post by agriffin on her tutorial for CPHP. Here's the link.
I thought it was very helpful and as soon as I get a larger crock pot I'm trying it!

http://gptxsoap.blogspot.com/2009/09/cr ... orial.html
 
Oh, thanks so much for your advice on HP. I'm really excited to try it now, whether or not I do the show--maybe tomorrow. Right now I'm waiting for my friend to call me so we can talk about the possibility of doing the show.

Will my favorite CP recipe have similar characteristics in HP? I know the texture is a little different, but do I have to reformulate my CP recipes to make them suitable for HP? Also, I've never seen HP soap pix in any shape but loaf slices....can it be put in little silicone molds?
 
Okay, Juicy Bath, I just went onto your blog, are you sure you are not Martha Stewarts sister???? I loved all the wonderful things you do, WOW, Martha should actually run in shame.

JMHO on the soap table, I would tell her to sign me up for next years, that you will be ready with all kinds of goodies then. In my experience, it does not pay to scurry about last minute, you want to leave a lasting impression on your customers, make them want to come back next time. If you can't take your time, it will be obvious to the buyers. If you can plan some great soaps, think about great packaging, attractive table setup etc.. for next time, you won't go crazy and you will make a great first impression. That is just me though, I don't like to do anything hurried or half way as that is a reflection on me. Just ask yourself if it is worth your sanity?
 
Justpeachy said:
Will my favorite CP recipe have similar characteristics in HP? I know the texture is a little different, but do I have to reformulate my CP recipes to make them suitable for HP? Also, I've never seen HP soap pix in any shape but loaf slices....can it be put in little silicone molds?


I switched my CP recipe to HP and it's better!
I poured extra HP into bar molds and it unmolds great! (pour side isn't
as attractive as CP, but overfill the molds, when the soap hardens, slice
the back level with the mold, then remove the soap.)

Good luck!
 
CastorFan said:
Justpeachy said:
Will my favorite CP recipe have similar characteristics in HP? I know the texture is a little different, but do I have to reformulate my CP recipes to make them suitable for HP? Also, I've never seen HP soap pix in any shape but loaf slices....can it be put in little silicone molds?

Yes to all your questions.
I switched my CP recipe to HP and it's better!
I poured extra HP into bar molds and it unmolds great! (pour side isn't
as attractive as CP, but overfill the molds, when the soap hardens, slice
the back level with the mold, then remove the soap.)

Good luck!

Okay...now I'm confused! :? Castor your answer to the question "do I have to reformulate my CP recipes to make them suitable for HP" was a "yes". I thought you could use the same recipe with only exception of not to discount water. Please explain how to reformulate the recipe before I make a horrible mistake with my first attempt at CPHP. :) Thanking you in advance!
 
rubyslippers said:
Okay...now I'm confused! :? Castor your answer to the question "do I have to reformulate my CP recipes to make them suitable for HP" was a "yes". I thought you could use the same recipe with only exception of not to discount water. Please explain how to reformulate the recipe before I make a horrible mistake with my first attempt at CPHP. :) Thanking you in advance!

Sorry -- I edited my answer! My CP recipe worked HP, but I was already
using 38% water.
 
Jody63 said:
Okay, Juicy Bath, I just went onto your blog, are you sure you are not Martha Stewarts sister???? I loved all the wonderful things you do, WOW, Martha should actually run in shame.

And yr etsy store...those bags are WOW!! :D
 
Quick directions for HP-- it's now my preferred soapmaking method:

- use your regular recipe
- mix lye with full amount of water.
- melt solid oils in crockpot on 'high'. When they're melted, turn off the crockpot, add liquid oils. Stir.
- add sodium lactate (if using it) to your lye/water solution. Stir.
- Pour lye/water/sodium lactate into the oils. Stick blend to trace-- I generally go to medium trace for HP.
- Let it sit for a few minutes. Once it starts to firm up, run a rubber spatula around the edges so no soap is drying on the sides of the pot.
- Turn pot to 'keep warm' and let it cook about 2 hours. Stir. If it's at the 'vaseline stage', zap test. If you get zapped, cook another 15 - 30 minutes and try again.
- Test the temp. Add your FO once the temp is below the flashpoint. Stir well (I use a wire whisk). Add color if desired.
- Pour into mold. Bang mold on the counter a few times, and spread the batter out a little on the sides with a spatula. I generally don't scrape the crock clean or I get bits of dried soap in the batter. Press Saran Wrap on the top, and 'smoosh' it flat with the mold's lid, your fingers, etc. or leave it rough if you want a rustic look. If you want it flat, go back and press firmly on the lid a few times while it cools; otherwise you will end up with a slightly lower spot in the middle, so keep that in mind when designing your tops.
- when cool, unmold and slice. It's soap at this point, but I generally give it two weeks to dry and become milder before use; longer if possible.

* if using sugar, dissolve it in water before adding lye
* if using sodium lactate, stir it into the lye solution, or add to water before adding lye (I prefer to add it to the solution)
* if using a boiled sugar syrup or honey, add it in at trace.

Once the soap left on the sides of the crock has dried, scrape it out and add it to the rebatch box.

** if your crock doesn't have a 'keep warm' setting, cook it on 'low' and keep an eye on it. Usually there is NO climbing or volcanoing on low, but watch it carefully until you know how your crock works. If using low, you can usually cut the cook time down a bit. Some tutorials recommend cooking on high, and you can do that, but then you have to watch the soap really closely and be prepared to stir it back down once it starts to foam. I like the texture of the finished soap better cooked for longer periods on lower settings.

-----------------------

Whether you do the show or not, try HP!

How much soap do you have ready right now? If it's more than a dozen bars or so, I'd go to the show with what you have. Take along an order form for those who may be interested should you sell out of something. People tend to want what they can't have, so this could work in your favor! Do you have lotions or body butters to take? Any interest in making up some MP soaps to take to the show?
 
Jody and Lisa- thanks for your sweet comments about my blog. NO WAY am I anything near as good as Martha, but I do like to try making things. I just started the Juicybags stuff last fall and I had lots of fun with it....a little too much fun actually and I kinda burnt out on all that sewing. I lost my supplier for the juice pouches too...wah!
Anybody know where I can get a stead stream of empty juice pouches? Let me know!

So, now I'm discovering the wonderful world of soaping and I'm LOVING it!
 
SilverMaple said:
I like the texture of the finished soap better cooked for longer periods on lower settings.

Thanks for posting those great HP tips.
Have you ever used a thermometer to tell what you're cooling down to?
Or a thermometer to tell when you stop cooking?
I'd be very interested in hearing those (gonna use one for mine this weekend).

I've been cooking on high and very interested in your comment about
using low temp. I'll try it this weekend. Once again -- Sincere Thanks!
 
On 'keep warm' my soap is generally around 150-160*. On 'low', it goes to about 200* My larger crock has temps about 10* higher on the same settings, and the one I used to have had significantly lower temps. Crocks vary :)

Needless to say, the 'keep warm' setting makes it much easier to add FO's without waiting around for the soap to cool enough to use them. Most FO's are usable right away, some with lower flashpoints need the soap to sit for 20-30 minutes to cool to below that point.

Anything with a flashpoint below 140 goes in CP. (essential oils, mostly)

I like the texture on the lower settings. The soap seems to dry out less and is easier to pour. Also, there's some evidence that high heat can cause oils to go rancid more quickly or lose some of their effectiveness, so I tend to keep temps lower and cook for a longer period of time.
 

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