Benjifrazer
Active Member
My mount fuji scraped layer soap
Wow… this is so precise and detailed. Just amazing.
Wow, that’s clever. I can’t be bothered and just use a tub and cut into squares.
Essential oils wont react with the lye as they are not fatty acid oils - so you would essentially consume your superfatWhat soapy thing did I do today? It has been nearly a year since I made any CP soap and with present season coming I thought that I’d make a batch; used to be no problem. I doubled my recipe but forgot that I had doubled the EOs already- doh. So I have some rather lumpy soap. I will, of course, re-batch. I am tempted to just add enough Lye and water to take up the excess EOs rather than make another batch without EOs and blends the two. The kitchen smells lovely, though. What would you do? Thanks.
As @Benjifrazer said, EOs aren’t going to be consumed by the lye. You can put the blend into EOCalc.com to check if the amount you actually used is skin-safe. If so, the soap is fine to be used as-is. If not, you can shred it and mix it in with a new unscented batch that is big enough to bring the scent load down to skin-safe levels.What soapy thing did I do today? It has been nearly a year since I made any CP soap and with present season coming I thought that I’d make a batch; used to be no problem. I doubled my recipe but forgot that I had doubled the EOs already- doh. So I have some rather lumpy soap. I will, of course, re-batch. I am tempted to just add enough Lye and water to take up the excess EOs rather than make another batch without EOs and blends the two. The kitchen smells lovely, though. What would you do? Thanks.
Thank you.As @Benjifrazer said, EOs aren’t going to be consumed by the lye. You can put the blend into EOCalc.com to check if the amount you actually used is skin-safe. If so, the soap is fine to be used as-is. If not, you can shred it and mix it in with a new unscented batch that is big enough to bring the scent load down to skin-safe levels.
Wow, I happened to see this soap ion the Soap Challenge Club site over the weekend when I was searching for inspiration for landscape soaps, and I absolutely loved it. @Benjifrazer Did you make multiple small batches for the different layers? I struggle to keep my soap batter fluid long enough when executing a complicated design.My mount fuji scraped layer soap
Yes this is multiple batches - you need to soap cool however as this is scraped layers you do need it to set up to be able to scrape each layerWow, I happened to see this soap ion the Soap Challenge Club site over the weekend when I was searching for inspiration for landscape soaps, and I absolutely loved it. @Benjifrazer Did you make multiple small batches for the different layers? I struggle to keep my soap batter fluid long enough when executing a complicated design.
How cool do you soap for this sort of design?Yes this is multiple batches - you need to soap cool however as this is scraped layers you do need it to set up to be able to scrape each layer
@Jorah, I think that is a really pretty deep green. I am amazed by the people like @dibbles who seem to be able to foresee exactly how colors/shades/tones will come out. For me it is a bit of a crap shoot, but that is part of the fun of it. Or so I tell myselfFar greener than I meant it to be, but it's a keeper. Every time I do anything with colorants, I grow more impressed with you-all who have what seems to be total control over your soap colors!
I will soap at between 32-45°C (90-107.5°F) - but i will also keep the batter fluid enough to fill the gaps and wait fir the layer to set up enough to scrape.How cool do you soap for this sort of design?
I think that knowing what colors go together well is a skill in itself! I have gotten better at soapy coloring through lots of practice, and I try to plan pretty carefully. But for some people (I think you are one) it just seems more instinctual.And my philosophy is if the colors go together, then shades and tones of those colors will also work.
Absoutely beautiful ...wow
Component | Grams |
Almond Oil 63.5% | 400 |
Coconut Oil 23.8% | 150 |
Cocoa Butter 12.7 | 80 |
Beeswax | 20 |
Honey | 38 |
Water | 188.3 |
Lye | 94.1 |
Salt | 10 |
Working with beeswax and honey is tricky, so props to you, man! That's a whole lotta castor oil. I find castor oil cheaper online but the local pharmacy carries it with other Mexican products with other laxative products, LOL, and the local Whole Foods Market.This week I ordered 8 pounds of castor oil. Many of my oils, like coconut, I can get at local stores, but castor oil is not among them, and I know if I run out I will not be able to make most of my favorite recipes, so I'm laying in enough to get me through at least the next six-twelve months.
Since I was ordering from Bulk Apothecary anyway, I also ordered some five-fold lemon EO and some spruce EO.
Oh, and I started trying out my 6% honey soap in the shower for the first time, and it didn't make my skin hurt!! This is a big deal, because so far, only my pure lard and pure tallow bars haven't made my dry skin hurt, and I was starting to think they'd be my only go-to shower bars.* That would be fine, but they're not very interesting visually or olfactorily. If the honey soap works for me, I'll be happy.
*One of the surprises for me was to discover that my castile and bastille bars aggravate my eczema. After reading so much good about them in the earliest days of my research into soap making, I anticipated them being very gentle... you gentle folk on the SMF had a much harsher opinion about high-OO recipes, which I'm starting to come around to joining you on! I may give up OO entirely, or reduce the percentage a lot.
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Second edit to add the recipe if anyone's interested (Adapted from Almond Facial Soap, p. 60, Smart Soapmaking by Ann Watson):
Component GramsAlmond Oil 63.5% 400Coconut Oil 23.8% 150Cocoa Butter 12.7 80Beeswax 20Honey 38Water 188.3Lye 94.1Salt 10
As you know, you are not alone re: olive oil. The good news is that almond oil (63.5% in that recipe you liked) is an excellent sub for olive oil in castile/bastile recipes. One member who shares your aversion to OO made Zany's No Slime Castile with 100% almond oil and liked it.One of the surprises for me was to discover that my castile and bastille bars aggravate my eczema. After reading so much good about them in the earliest days of my research into soap making, I anticipated them being very gentle... you gentle folk on the SMF had a much harsher opinion about high-OO recipes, which I'm starting to come around to joining you on! I may give up OO entirely, or reduce the percentage a lot.
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