wildflower said:
Very interesting topic.
Irishlass...could you show pictures of how you cut/insert the mylar/silicone? How do you do it so that there are no spaces at the edges?
This makes me wonder too... is there something undesirable about no-liner molds? Like the plastic, or acrylic ones?
Unfortunately, I have no pictures to show of how I cut my mylar, but I'll try to explain.
1) First- I measured the inside dimensions of each side of my mold, being as exact and precise as possible.
2) Then, using a sharpened #2 pencil and ruler, I measured and drew out directly on the mylar where I needed to cut. The pencil marks will be light, but they show up enough to get the job done, and it erases off easily, too.
3) Then I took my Fiskar's cutter that I use for scrapbooking, and I cut just a little bit outside the drawn lines (it's best to slightly undercut at the first swipe or else you'll cut too much and have your piece of mylar be too small and useless).
4) Now comes the exacting, nerve-wracking part.
Then I placed the cut pieces into my mold and made minor adjustments here and there with scizzors until they fit perfectly. When I made my minor adjustments with the scizzors, I made sure to cut in such a way that the corners of the individual liner pieces overlapped each other so that it made for a tight enough fit with good seal to prevent leakage.
The first time I tried making the Mylar liners, I screwed up by cutting too much off at first, and I had to go out any buy more Mylar and try again. I had learned my lesson, though, and the second try was successful. As nerve-wracking as step #4 can be, once you're able to get it right, you'll never need to do it again.
When I cut my silicone impression mat, I measured, but had a hard time drawing my measurements directly onto the silicone with a pencil, so I used a sharpie marker. The marker kinda worked, but it was very light (don't worry- it washed off fine ). And for whatever reason, my Fiskar's cutter had a hard time cutting it, so I ended up using just my scizzors to cut instead. For whatever reason, it was actually much easier for me to cut and adjust the impression mat than it was to cut and adjust the mylar.
wildflower said:
This makes me wonder too... is there something undesirable about no-liner molds? Like the plastic, or acrylic ones?
Actually, I'd never had experience using acrylic liners until just the other day when I used my new acrylic lined vertical mold from Brambleberry for the first time (it came with the liners). The acrylic liners worked very well- the edges of my soap are just as sharp and crisp as my soaps made with Mylar, but I did have to freeze my soap in the acrylic liners for about 40 minutes before they would finally release my soap.
brewsie said:
Irishlass you said the mylar is 'heat resistant', is that to a certain degree? Like, could you still do CPOP with it?
Yes- it's heat resistant to a certain degree and can warp if the temp is too high. From all I've read, the temp limit depends on the type and thickness of the Mylar used. I remember hearing of someone who poured her hot HP batter (which was quite hot at 240 degreesF) into her mold with heat-resistant quilter's Mylar liners (from Joanne's- the same kind that I use), and the liners warped.
I use my Mylar liners for CPOP all the time without any issues, but the absolute hottest I've ever set my oven temp to for CPOP is 170F. Usually, though, all it takes to get my soap to gel in the oven is to turn it off when the oven temp reaches 120F (I soap warm at 120F to 125F).
HTH!
IrishLass