Magic7M
Active Member
I am curious. Has anyone tried making a salt bar with goats milk? Reading these posts have inspired me. With the results of what both does for the skin I was wondering about combining them. Any input or ideas on this?
I am curious. Has anyone tried making a salt bar with goats milk? Reading these posts have inspired me. With the results of what both does for the skin I was wondering about combining them. Any input or ideas on this?
I have hard water and they lather great for me, after a 6 month cure. I'm sorry, my recipes seem to not work well for you It is so weird how some work for one and not another. I am going to try sorbitol in my next batch of salt bars and see if it helps with lather. I have even used up to 110% salt and they still lather. I am sorry you wasted your time and ingredients. But confetti salt bars are nice to. I have also lowered the liquid oil to 5% upping castor to 10%, and also like them. Will see if I have any left when I get home to drop one in the mail to you. It will be a couple of weeksDo you have soft water? I tried your recipe with castor and 100% salt, I couldn't get them to lather. Had to grind them up and add to another batch.
Always figured it was my hard water to blame.
Hey AliOop ... mostly CP for me.
Slab molds are quick (the exothermic reaction warms everything up and it goes fast ... I tend to cut them in the mold)
Log molds are ok, but your timing still needs to be good - they can be turned out and cut while warm (don't let them go cold - they will be too brittle to cut)
Individual molds - these are the easiest of the three - pour/pour and cover/pour and insulate/pour and carefully CPOP or heatpad ...they still turn out
HP salt bars are the hardest - they are so difficult as to be nearly impossible ... they set so fast on contact with anything cool, including room temperature air.
I do CP, and use individual cavity molds so I do put them on a heating pad and cover with a box. I think if you make them in a loaf mold they will get plenty hot on their own. I know people who do it this way watch them closely and cut when the soap is firm enough to unmold and still warm. I'm not too sure how long, but I think it is pretty quick.
Don't forget.... it's good to make them now because they should be cured for a good long time! I'll be making more this week as I'm almost out of my personal stash.Thanks, Dibbles and SF, that is all great info. I have a bunch of stuff on my "must try" list, but this thread has moved the salt bars to the top of that list. I really shouldn't make any more soap for awhile, BUT... (d0 I even need to finish that sentence?)
I'm more than happy to do my part.Misschief, you have become my enabler today, lol! Seriously, the reminder about cure time is truly on point. I really should make these now so I can enjoy them this summer
I only cp salt bars and cut mine withing 45 minutes. With my salt bars I use a 30% lye solution with my salt bars. Using 100 percent salt the bars lather much better with a bath pouf or hairy bodyAs somewhat of a newbie, may I ask those of you who make salt bars, what processing method you use for your salt bars? Do you find that CP, CPOP, HP, etc., tends to work best for these? I won't be coloring but will probably add AC and some EOs for scent. Thanks!
It really does need a long cure. You might want to up the SF if you do not want to go with at least a year cureThanks for the recipe, cmzaha! I'm going to try it
"What Do You Like About Salt Bars?"
My most recent soap is a double-salt bar (both brine in the lye and salt added to the batter), using a recipe designed to also create soda ash in the soap.
As somewhat of a newbie, may I ask those of you who make salt bars, what processing method you use for your salt bars? Do you find that CP, CPOP, HP, etc., tends to work best for these? I won't be coloring but will probably add AC and some EOs for scent. Thanks!
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