What are good oils to use in a lotion recipe?

[Candybee]

The majority of body lotion recipes I am finding call for jojoba oil. I have even seen some with MCT and sunflower oil.

The lotion I am making I am wanting to use for mature skin and was considering using rbo instead of jojoba. Just curious what others think and what they might or might not sub.

 

[TheGecko]

If you want the 'mature' market, we have the money to spend on Jojoba Oil. I have two that I use on a regular basis...the daily one costs $18.00 for a 2oz jar and also contains jojoba, coconut, olive, avocado and neem oils. The weekly one is $24.00 for 2 oz and contains jojoba, meadowfoam seed and neem oils.

 

[AliOop]

I wouldn't use RBO for a lotion unless you are going to use it up fast. You want oils with a longer shelf life. Regular coconut oil doesn't agree much with my skin, but MCT oil - a very close cousin to fractionated coconut oil - seems to be ok, and it doesn't go rancid fast at all

My three current favorites are jojoba, argan, and meadowfoam seed oil. Other nice oils are avocado, sweet almond, and apricot kernel; they are less pricey but also not as fantastic as the first three.

Grapeseed oil feels really nice on the skin, which is why it's often used as a massage oil, but I think it also has a short shelf life. Double-check me on though, as I'm not positive.

 

[lsg]

Sweet almond, rosehip and meadowfoam oils are all good in lotions.

 

[amd]

I like sunflower, as well as any of the above. Sunflower is fast absorbing and light weight, so it works great for my uber dry skin but doesn't leave me feeling like I have a coating on my skin. Not sure that makes sense, basically some lotions are too heavy and slow absorbing so I feel like it is just sitting on top of my skin rather than soaking in.

 

[Juggsy]

I wouldn't use RBO for a lotion unless you are going to use it up fast. You want oils with a longer shelf life. Regular coconut oil doesn't agree much with my skin, but MCT oil - a very close cousin to fractionated coconut oil - seems to be ok, and it doesn't go rancid fast at all

My three current favorites are jojoba, argan, and meadowfoam seed oil. Other nice oils are avocado, sweet almond, and apricot kernel; they are less pricey but also not as fantastic as the first three.

Grapeseed oil feels really nice on the skin, which is why it's often used as a massage oil, but I think it also has a short shelf life. Double-check me on though, as I'm not positive.

@AliOop RBO as in Rice Bran Oil - has a shelf life of about a year. Also, just so you know MCT is the same as fractionated coconut oil ☺

The majority of body lotion recipes I am finding call for jojoba oil. I have even seen some with MCT and sunflower oil.

The lotion I am making I am wanting to use for mature skin and was considering using rbo instead of jojoba. Just curious what others think and what they might or might not sub.

I recommend that you start by making smaller batches (100ml) and testing what oils you like.
Ask yourself what you are trying to achieve? If you are looking to say help dry cracked skin you would use different oils than you would if you are looking for something for oily skin. What part of the body are you using it on? What feel do you want it to have? Do you want it to be light? heavy? What type of skin do you have? How comedogenic is the oil? What's the shelf life? There are just a few things that need to be considered.
You may also like to consider what oils you do have on hand that you can use? Especially if you have are just starting out. It can be an expensive endeavour. There are a lot of different emollients on the market, each have their pros and cons; also not all suit all. Everyone's skin is different and we all like different skin feel. Some people like the moisturiser to sink into their skin immediately, some like when you can play with it a bit. It does take a bit of time to navigate the information out there and to find what you like.

All the information you have given us is you'd like it to be suitable for mature skin. There really isn't a "best" because as mentioned above it depends on your skin and what you want to achieve, what your skin can handle too.

You said you had RBO - I assume this is Rice Bran Oil? Rice Bran Oil is a medium weight oil. It has a shelf life of about a year. I wouldn't use it on my face but it is one oil that gets used a lot in my formulas. It's a good sub in my opinion for sunflower oil. Ferulic acid that is in rice bran oil can help with aging and reduce age spots. It also can help with light and radiation damaged skin. Ferulic acid also helps prevent oxidisation and it can be more effective anti-oxidant than Vitamin E.

Jojoba is not actually an oil, it's a wax ester. It has this amazing ability as it mimics the sebum in our skin. It also penetrates the hair follicles but doesn't block the follicles. It basically mixes those things and kind of allows the skin to breathe. I know that's not a great description but I can't think of an easier way to say it. It is extremely popular because it is a stable emollient with a long shelf life (2 years).

You also mentioned Fractionated Coconut MCT oil. It is popular in lotions again because of it's shelf life (2+years). It lasts longer than coconut oil. It's lightweight, doesn't have a smell, doesn't stain clothes. It is a favourite and highly used oil. There is no difference between MCT or fractionated coconut oil, it's just the different way they are marketed. MCT just means medium chain triglyceride, which is correct it is a medium chain triglyceride, it is actually caprylic/capric triglyceride. It basically gets called fractionated because it coconut oil that has been fractioned from a long chain triglyceride to a medium chain triglyceride. Both have the same INCI names ergo they are the same. FCO is sometimes marketed as oil free as it isn't a "real" oil like sunflower or olive oil, but it is still comedogenic. It's comedogenic rating is 2. It is kind a dry oil but deeply moisturising oil.

Sorry, I am trying to keep the post short but it's such a big topic.

You also mentioned Sunflower Oil. It is low comedogenic, light oil so is good for face moisturisers. It is has some wonderful properties but it has a really short shelf life (3-6 months thereabouts). So unless you know you are going to use it within that time it's a great oil that is always recommended in beginner formulas, because it's cheap and if you stuff up, it's easy to replace. It's good for skin softening and it does have some anti-aging properties but because it has such short life it's one to use for experiments that you know you are going to use say within three months. It is also why, I would recommend starting with small batches. I personally wouldn't go smaller than 100g, you could go to 50g but you would have to ensure you have very accurate scale. As your preservative is usually around 0.5% - 1.0% and most scales for home use aren't great at the really tiny amounts.

Meadowfoam oil like jojoba is popular because it has a longer shelf life (2 years - maybe longer) and it is another popular emollient in anti-aging formulas. It is a light-ish, waxy kind of oil. It is resistant to oxidisation due to it's long chain fatty acids. It is often the oil that is recommended as a replacement for jojoba. Both have a comedogenic rating of 2 (some sources of meadowfoam I've seen have actually been lower at 1).

You might find this interesting if looking to sub jojoba for meadowfoam. Comparison of Meadowfoam seed oil Vs Jojoba oil

I find it interesting that I can get jojoba in Australia a lot more easily and cheaper than meadowfoam, something that those in the Americas don't have an issue with as I believe it is native to Western Canada (& apparently Oregon). So, it is likely cheaper over there.

I could continue but I would most probably end up writing 2000 plus words. If you want some help with your formula, I will happily help. If you don't want to post your formula publicly that's okay. If you want me to help you please let me know. ☺

 

[AliOop]

@Juggsy FCO and MCT oil are very similar but not exactly the same. MCT contains only medium chain triglycerides, whereas FCO has both medium and short.

From what I’ve read, the difference is only important for those who are suffering from fungal acne. Can’t remember which one of the two is bad for that. Maybe one of our formulators will chime in to clarify.

 

[Juggsy]

@Juggsy FCO and MCT oil are very similar but not exactly the same. MCT contains only medium chain triglycerides, whereas FCO has both medium and short.

From what I’ve read, the difference is only important for those who are suffering from fungal acne. Can’t remember which one of the two is bad for that. Maybe one of our formulators will chime in to clarify.

I just sent this to one of my lecturers not expecting a response, also asked it discord chat for students. MCT is fractionated coconut oil technically but you are right, there is a slight difference. It is in the way it's processed. Basically they fractionate CO for FCO and MCT is fractionated again. So FCO can be affected by crop issues, weather etc. May have some impurities basically.
For people formulating at home, there is basically no difference. But because FCO can change season to season, for big manufacturers, who need exact replication it's necessary to use MCT because it is more likely to be the same batch to batch.

Amy, fellow student, directed me to this article: Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride vs. Fractionated Coconut Oil

So, we are both right. No real difference on skin feel but if constant consistency is needed MCT is the way to go. Interestingly, most of the suppliers I use only sell MCT. There's only one that has both and MCT was cheaper! Only other place I've seen both being sold was Woolies (supermarket) and I wouldn't buy my oil from supermarket.

 

[AliOop]

@Juggsy sounds like the old saying: a square is a rectangle, but a rectangle is not a square. So MCT is a form of FCO, but not all FCO is MCT.

I can’t remember where I read about it, but apparently fungal acne is worsened by one but not the other. Given that MCTO is more refined, I’m guessing that’s the safer one for that situation. I’ll look it up if I ever need to know for a customer’s sake.

I often buy my oils at Costco, including MCT, OO, and Avo. Costco sells so much product so fast that it’s all very fresh, and at lower prices than wholesale suppliers can ship it to me. I also buy my regular 76degree CO at Big Lots bc it is the best price and CO has a super long shelf life. Neither shop is a supermarket per se, but their quality is as good or better than the wholesalers.

I do prefer getting butters and other shorter-life oils from soap suppliers, not just for quality but also for price. Maybe someday Costco will start carrying cocoa butter!

 

[TheGecko]

I find it interesting that I can get jojoba in Australia a lot more easily and cheaper than meadowfoam, something that those in the Americas don't have an issue with as I believe it is native to Western Canada (& apparently Oregon). So, it is likely cheaper over there.

Oh yeah...we have lots of Meadowfoam fields in my county though they are mainly south and east. When I worked out that way I used to have to roll up my windows and hold my breath when I passed them because of my grass allergies.

 

[Candybee]

Wow! I didn't expect so many replies or information to chew on. Thanks everyone who chimed in and gave me some information. I have been soaping for a number of years so am familiar with many oils and how they can effect the finished soap.

Anyway, the goal is to make a lotion for mature skin so wanted to get some input from others on an oil choice. I have jojoba, MCT, sunflower, etc. so I could simply pick one and try it. Which I am sure I will end up doing anyway.

If it helps, I am in my late 60s and over the years my skin has become very sensitive, more dry, and thinner of course. Plus older skin I have found is more sensitive to UV light and sunlight. You get age spots that suddenly appear, bumpy skin, new moles, skin tags, patchy flaky skin spots and stuff that appears on your skin you're not sure what they are. It's all a part of aging. But I have found that taking good care of my mature skin can make a difference. So this is my motivation for developing a lotion for more mature skin like mine.

 

[Candybee]

Wanted to add I am leaning more towards the jojoba and meadowfoam. So I will do some more research on those. However, my recipe only calls for about 3-4% liquid oil so I am wondering does it really matter that much what oil I use? I had thought about rice bran (RBO) because it's supposed to absorb quickly and had a longer shelf life than sunflower. But I know some oils tend to feel more greasy than others or don't absorb as well. I think that MCT can help with glide or slip but can also tend to feel greasy if overused.

 

[Mobjack Bay]

I use RBO in balms and really like it. With ROE added to the RBO, I haven’t had any issues with it lasting > 1 yr.

The fairly light cream I use on my mature face is based on olive squalane and meadowfoam (7.5% each) with a smaller amount of mango butter (3%). I was using abyssinian oil before the meadowfoam and I liked that version a little better, but won’t switch back until the meadowfoam is used up. Both versions absorb relatively quickly, but I still feel like I get a little bit of a barrier that keeps my face from feeling dry. I have never used jojoba in my creams or lotions.

 

[Quanta]

What I do, if I want to compare different oils to see what absorbs well, is put a few drops on the inside of my forearm and rub it in. Put another oil on the other arm, and see how each one feels immediately after application, and a little while later.

If you want something that absorbs almost completely, I have found that babassu oil is great for that. I like it in my lotion sticks but I have not made an emulsified lotion or cream with it. Some say that babassu is interchangeable with coconut oil but I have found that comparison to be inaccurate. Coconut oil doesn't absorb quite as readily.

 

[AliOop]

Some say that babassu is interchangeable with coconut oil but I have found that comparison to be inaccurate. Coconut oil doesn't absorb quite as readily.

Oh, thank you for sharing that! I have never tried babassu on my skin directly because I don't like CO on my skin... just assumed they would be the same.

 

[Arimara]

What I do, if I want to compare different oils to see what absorbs well, is put a few drops on the inside of my forearm and rub it in. Put another oil on the other arm, and see how each one feels immediately after application, and a little while later.

If you want something that absorbs almost completely, I have found that babassu oil is great for that. I like it in my lotion sticks but I have not made an emulsified lotion or cream with it. Some say that babassu is interchangeable with coconut oil but I have found that comparison to be inaccurate. Coconut oil doesn't absorb quite as readily.

Have to agree with babassu oil. I love that oil in butter whips and lotion.

 

[Adobehead]

I use shea butter, cocoa butter and grapeseed oil. Can't remember what else. It seems to have a very long shelf life. I have mature skin and live in a dry climate.

 

[Arimara]

I can't lend much of a word considering I don't have mature skin quite yet. About the only piece of advice I can even give is to try a little bit of each oil that you want to use for your lotion before you make it. If you don't like it as an oil, you may not like it in your lotion.

 

[Juggsy]

Babassu is wonderful but extremely expensive. I'm paying approximately $15 per 100ml and would say it's a bit exotic (why I didn't suggest it).
I argue would abyssinian is very similar to but more sustainable than argan and good replacement for argan oil. Love love love Abyssinian. It is hands down my favourite oil. It's sustainable, it's a nice oil to work with. It's not depleting old growth forests. I really like pracaxi oil in hair products too. I formulate a few curly girl shampoos and conditioners for friends so I use both abyssinian and pracaxi oils for hair.
I didn't suggest any exotic oils (babassu, abyssinian, pracaxi, camellia seed etc etc) because @Candybee was asking about MCT and sunflower as a possible replacement for argan.

But there are so many that would be suitable it's kind of hard to say - "use this" because - everyone's skin etc is different.

@AliOop whether you will break out due to FCO/MCT has more to do with how your skin reacts, (I'm pretty sure? will research this more when have time) as on a scale of 1-4 it's comedogenic value is 2. MCT/FCO generally add a drier feel as it's a good absorber. But some say, it feels greasy so do think it does come down to some personal preference. It's the same as IPM in formulas for drier but good slip and playtime feel etc. For me, I think IPM greasy and don't like the feel of it other than in a cold emulsion whipped shea formula I use for body butter. There are companies who label their products with MCT/FCO as "oil free" as it's not a proper oil.

With oil feel you would be better to test with your emulsifying agent not just the emollient (oils/butters/esters/alcohol etc) because with lotion etc you are looking at slip, playtime etc. Wouldn't you? I mean it might be good for checking allergies and checking whether you like the the heaviness/adsorb or absorb But, I find it much easier to small batch because you can test everything and compare.

@Candybee my older sister is 60 and looks 40. She studied aromatherapy and naturopathy and says it's not just what you put on the outside. She's a bit full on with skin care routine.

You are making a lotion aren't you. 3-4% seems kind of low for an oil phase total. Or was there some other emollients being used in the oil phase? Do you want to make a light lotion? I think the way you said you are leaning towards using jojoba and meadowfoam which would be fine. I'd most likely add squalane and would use hydrosols - aloe, chamomile would be a good inclusions with jojoba and meadowfoam. You could add some alpha hydroxy acids as they are good for antiaging, skin tagging etc.

 

[Candybee]

Babassu is wonderful but extremely expensive. I'm paying approximately $15 per 100ml and would say it's a bit exotic (why I didn't suggest it).
I argue would abyssinian is very similar to but more sustainable than argan and good replacement for argan oil. Love love love Abyssinian. It is hands down my favourite oil. It's sustainable, it's a nice oil to work with. It's not depleting old growth forests. I really like pracaxi oil in hair products too. I formulate a few curly girl shampoos and conditioners for friends so I use both abyssinian and pracaxi oils for hair.
I didn't suggest any exotic oils (babassu, abyssinian, pracaxi, camellia seed etc etc) because @Candybee was asking about MCT and sunflower as a possible replacement for argan.

But there are so many that would be suitable it's kind of hard to say - "use this" because - everyone's skin etc is different.

@AliOop whether you will break out due to FCO/MCT has more to do with how your skin reacts, (I'm pretty sure? will research this more when have time) as on a scale of 1-4 it's comedogenic value is 2. MCT/FCO generally add a drier feel as it's a good absorber. But some say, it feels greasy so do think it does come down to some personal preference. It's the same as IPM in formulas for drier but good slip and playtime feel etc. For me, I think IPM greasy and don't like the feel of it other than in a cold emulsion whipped shea formula I use for body butter. There are companies who label their products with MCT/FCO as "oil free" as it's not a proper oil.

With oil feel you would be better to test with your emulsifying agent not just the emollient (oils/butters/esters/alcohol etc) because with lotion etc you are looking at slip, playtime etc. Wouldn't you? I mean it might be good for checking allergies and checking whether you like the the heaviness/adsorb or absorb But, I find it much easier to small batch because you can test everything and compare.

@Candybee my older sister is 60 and looks 40. She studied aromatherapy and naturopathy and says it's not just what you put on the outside. She's a bit full on with skin care routine.

You are making a lotion aren't you. 3-4% seems kind of low for an oil phase total. Or was there some other emollients being used in the oil phase? Do you want to make a light lotion? I think the way you said you are leaning towards using jojoba and meadowfoam which would be fine. I'd most likely add squalane and would use hydrosols - aloe, chamomile would be a good inclusions with jojoba and meadowfoam. You could add some alpha hydroxy acids as they are good for antiaging, skin tagging etc.

Yes I am making lotion and jojoba is my liquid oil. I will also be using shea butter in my recipe.

Right now I have jojoba oil so I think I will start with that and make a very small test batch once I have all my ingredients. I am waiting on some new e-wax I wanted to try and hopefully will have that by the end of this week.

Although I am in the R&D and in the testing phase I do intend to eventually make a lotion to sell. This all started because I wanted to make my own instead of using premade bases. I mention this because cost is also a part of the equation since I have a soap and B&B biz. For example, after checking out abyssinian oil I am discarding it for now due to its high cost. If I use it at all it would probably be personal use unless I get good enough at lotion making some day to tweak ingredients to make it cost effective. KWIM?