Vitalis Hair Tonic

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Hello all

I am looking at making up a wee batch of something similar to Vitalis Hair Tonic.

The ingredients are:

SD Alcohol 40
PPG-40 Butyl Ether
Water
Benzyl Benzoate
Fragrance
Dihydroabietyl Alcohol
D&C Yellow No. 10
FD&C Yellow No. 6

The two colours I'm not overly fussed with and the fragrence can also be tailored to taste.

I am interested in some of the other ingredients and if anyone knows of a more readily available option for them.

Failing that, any hair tonic recipes that would produce something similar to Vitalis would be welcome indeed

 

[DeeAnna]

From the Manufacture of Perfumery. Diete C. 1892.

CHAPTER XII.
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS; HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.

To properly preserve the hair it requires to be occasionally oiled, and the scalp to be frequently cleansed. Pomades and oils serve for the former purpose, and hair tonics for the latter. For the preparation of pomades, fats, such as lard, beef-tallow, and beef-marrow, ate principally used, though cocoa butter, cocoanut oil, castor oil, almond oil, spermaceti, and wax, and, more recently, vaseline are also employed. For the preparation of hair oils, fat oils, especially olive oil and almond oil are used, but also poppy oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, etc. The fats and oils used should not be rancid, for, on the one hand, the bad odor arising from rancidity is troublesome in perfuming, and, on the other, what is of still greater importance, rancid fat injuriously affects the scalp and the growth of the hair. Of the oils above mentioned, which are sometimes used, poppy oil is a drying oil, and, therefore, not suitable for the purpose.

Some fats enjoy a special reputation as hair pomades, the property of strengthening the scalp and promoting the growth of the hair being ascribed to them. This is especially the case as regards beef marrow and horse fat,* whilst in olden times the bone marrow of the deer (cerval medullce) and bear's grease were believed to possess this property. Cleopatra is said to have used the latter, and many ladies are at the present time under the impression that they apply it to their hair when they use Pommade d la graisse d'ours. Thoroughly purified lard renders no doubt the same service as the above-mentioned fats.

* Genuine horse fat is obtained from the upper portion of the neck of the horse.

...to be continued....

 

[DeeAnna]

HAIR OILS. —Like pomades, hair oils are perfumed either with volatile oils or by treatment with larger quantities of fresh flowers. The oils obtained in the latter manner are known as Huiles antiques, and are the finest and most expensive. Vaseline oil, which is cheap and does not become rancid, is also at present much used as hair oil. To make the fat oils used as hair oils more durable and to protect them from becoming rancid, they are also treated with benzoin. For this purpose digest for three hours, with frequent stirring, in the water-bath 100 Ibs. of the oil with 1 Ib. of pulverized benzoin. With the exception of alkannin for red-colored oil and chlorophyll for herb oils, no coloring substances are used for hair oils. About 5J to 8J drachms of perfume are required for 1 Ib. of oil.
HAIR POMADES, HAIE OILS AND TONICS. 301

The Huiles antiques are obtained as follows :—
Huile antique a la rose. —Extract in the cold 1 Ib. of fresh rose leaves with 1 Ib. of best olive oil, and with the oil pressed off, extract, six times in succession, equal quantities of fresh leaves, leaving the rose-leaves each time in contact with the oil for 10 to J 2 hours. The oil, when sufficiently perfumed, is filtered.
Huile antique au jasmin. —Extract in the manner above given 1 Ib. of fresh jasmin flowers with 1 Ib. of olive oil.
In the same manner the perfume of the different flowers can be withdrawn and utilized.
A number of receipts for the most popular hair oils are here given.
Alpine herb oil. —Color slightly with chlorophyll 10 Ibs. of best quality of olive oil and perfume with peppermint oil 2 ozs., lavender oil 1 oz., caraway oil 6J drachms.
Flower hair oil. —Color slightly with alkannin 10 Ibs. of benzoated olive oil of best quality, and perfume with geranium oil 2J ozs., bergamot oil and lavender oil each 9 drachms, petit-grain oil 4| drachms, and angelica oil 5 drops.
Peruvian bark hair oil. —Extract for some time 1 Ib. of pulverized Peruvian bark with 10 Ibs. of strongly heated benzoinized olive oil. Then color the oil red with alkannin, and when cold, perfume with bergamot oil If ozs., lemon oil 14 drachms, rose-geranium oil 2J drachms, neroli oil J drachm, and cinnamon oil 5 drops; or, with bergamot oil 2J ozs., lemon oil 1J oz., geranium oil 31 drachms.
Peru hair oil. —Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., Peru balsam 3J ozs., cassia oil 11 drachms.
Burdock root hair oil No. 1.—Digest at a moderate heat 8 Ibs. of olive oil or sesame oil with 2 Ibs. of fresh burdock roots; then pour off the oil from the roots, add 7 ozs. of castor oil, color with, alkannin, and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs. and palma-rose oil 1 oz.
Burdock root hair oil No. 2.—Color 10 Ibs. of ben-zoated olive oil pale green with chlorophyll, and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs., geranium oil 1J ozs., and lavender oil 11 drachms.
Macassar hair oil No. 1.—Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., geranium oil and lemon oil each 1J ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms. Color red with alkannin.
Macassar oil No. 2.—Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., colored with alkannin, and perfumed with bergamot oil 1} ozs., lemon oil 1J ozs., cinnamon oil 1 drachm, musk essence 1 drachm.
Neroli hair oil. —Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., neroli 5J drachms dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, rose oil 10 drops.
Mignonette hair oil No. 1.—Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., cassia oil 1J ozs., geranium oil and tolu-balsam tincture each 11 drachms, neroli 1 drachm, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil.
Mignonette hair oil No. 2.—Benzoated olive oil 4 Ibs., fat mignonette oil 3 Ibs., tolu-balsam tincture 3J ozs.
Fine hair oil. —Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., lemon oil 1J ozs., bergamot oil 15| drachms, lavender oil 3f drachms, neroli oil 2f drachms, rosemary oil 1J drachms, petit-grain oil 1 drachm.
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 303
Cheap hair oil (red or yellow). —Sesame oil or purified colza oil lO lbs., bergamot oil 2J ozs., citronella oil 1J ozs., mirbane oil 10 drachms; or, Portugal oil 2f ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender oil 5J drachms.
Portugal hair oil. —Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., Portugal oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1J ozs., caraway oil 3J drachms.
Jasmine hair oil. —Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., fat jasmine oil 1J Ibs., bergamot oil If ozs., clove oil 11 drachms, rose-geranium oil 4J drachms, neroli 1 drachm, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, thyme oil J drachm.
Vaseline hair oil No. 1.—White vaseline oil 8 Ibs., white olive oil 2 Ibs., colored red with alkannin, bergamot oil 1J ozs., lavender oil and lemon oil each 11 drachms, neroli oil 5J drachms.
Vaseline hair oil No. 2.—Yellow vaseline oil 8 Ibs., olive oil 2 Ibs., cassia oil 1J ozs., lemon-grass oil 1 oz., clove oil J oz.
Vanilla hair oil. —Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., vanillin, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, and Peru balsam, each 5J drachms, bergamot oil 1 drachm, musk tincture 10 drops.
Ylang-ylang hair oil. —Benzoated olive oil 5 Ibs., ylang-ylang oil 2 drachms, rose oil 1 drachm, neroli oil 10 drops.
Philocome hair oil. —Melt together benzoated olive
011 and yellow wax each 2 Ibs., and when about half cold, add fat orris-root oil and fat jasmine oil, each 1J Ibs., rose-geranium oil 1 drachm, and stir until cold.
Sultana hair oil. —Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., colored red with alkannin, bergamot oil 1J ozs., lavender oil 8 drachms, cinnamon oil 7 drachms, neroli oil 5J drachms, geranium oil 3J drachms, musk tincture 1 drachm.
Rose hair oil. —Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., colored pale red with alkannin, geranium oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz., cassia oil 14 drachms.
Tonka hair oil. —Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., cumarin 10 drachms, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil. Violet hair oil. — Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., fat orris-root oil 3 Ibs., bergamot oil 6| drachms, clove oil 3J drachms, cinnamon oil 1 drachm, rose oil J drachm.
Victoria hair oil. —Benzoated olive oil 10 Ibs., slightly colored with alkannin, palma-rose oil, lavender oil, and citronella oil each 1 oz., musk tincture 1J drachms.
Cheap hair oil No. 1.—Sunflower oil 500 drachms, bergamot oil 3, rosemary oil 1, lemon oil 1, neroli and thyme oil each J.
Cheap hair oil No. 2.—Sunflower oil 500 drachms, lemon oil 2, rosemary oil 3, lavender oil 5, geranium 011 1, musk tincture J, thyme oil 1.

...and more to come...

 

[DeeAnna]

HAIR TONICS. —Hair tonics serve for cleansing and invigorating the scalp and for preventing the hair from falling out. Glycerin having a beneficial effect upon the scalp is much used as one of the constituents. The tonics also frequently contain ingredients said to promote the growth of the hair, such as Peruvian bark extract, quinine, tincture of cantharides, and substances containing tannin. Hair tonics containing tincture of cantharides should, however, not be too frequently used, as otherwise an excessive stimulation of the scalp might be the result, which would be more injurious than beneficial to the growth of the hair.
Some receipts for hair tonics are here given.
Eau Athenienne. —Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, vanilla tincture 1J lb., cumarin tincture 7 ozs., bergamot oil 3J ozs., rose-geranium oil 11 drachms, clove oil 14 drachms.
After 8 days, add 1 quart of rose water and mix thoroughly.
Florida water No. 1.—Alcohol 50 quarts, best lavender oil 3 Ibs., bergamot oil 1 lb., African rose-geranium oil J lb., tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric each 11 drachms, distilled water 16 quarts.
The alcohol, volatile oils, and tinctures are intimately mixed in a glass balloon, then allowed to stand two to three weeks when the distilled water is added and the whole vigorously agitated. After adding the water the fluid becomes very turbid and requires several weeks to clarify. It is then filtered through paper. If, notwithstanding filtering, it should remain somewhat turbid, bring a small quantity of carbonate of magnesia upon the filter.
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS AND TONICS. 309
Florida water No. 2.—Alcohol 25 quarts, lavender oil 7 ozs., palmarosa oil 8 ozs., Portugal oil and red thyme oil each 3| ozs., tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric each 5J drachms, rain-water 10 quarts. Proceed in the same manner as given for Florida water No. 1.
Eau de Cologne hair tonic. —Alcohol 8 quarts, oils of bergamot and lemons each 1J ozs., lavender oil 11 drachms, rosemary oil 5J drachms, glycerin of 28° B. 3J ozs. After 8 days add 7 ozs. of bicarbonate of soda dissolved in 2J quarts of distilled water.
Eau de quinine. —Alcohol of best quality 20 quarts, tinctures of gall-nuts and Peruvian bark each 2 quarts, vanilla tincture 1 quart, bergamot oil 7 ozs., African rose-geranium oil 3J ozs., clove oil 14 drachms, glycerin of 28° B. 3 Ibs., Panama wood 4 Ibs., boiled with filtered rain-water 12 quarts, bicarbonate of soda 1 Ib. dissolved in 1 quart of water.
The alcohol, tinctures, and volatile oils are brought into a glass balloon and after vigorous agitation allowed to stand 8 days for the volatile oils to dissolve. The decoction of Panama wood is then added, next the bicarbonate of soda solution, and finally the whole is thoroughly agitated. The Panama-wood decoction should not be added while hot, as otherwise the glass balloon might burst. Color the water with cochineal tincture or henna tincture.
Eau de quinine (imitation). —Alcohol 25 quarts, vanilla tincture No. 2, 2 quarts, Portugal oil 1 lb., palmarosa oil 8 ozs., clove oil 3J ozs., glycerin of 28° B. 3 Ibs., Panama wood 3 Ibs., boiled in rain-water 20 quarts, bicarbonate of soda 1 lb., dissolved in rain-water 1 quart. Proceed in the manner given for genuine Eau de quinine. Color with henna tincture.
Honey water. —Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, orris-root tincture 1 quart, angelica tincture 1 lb., tonka-bean extract If ozs., turmeric tincture, as coloring matter, 5J drachms, Portugal oil 7J ozs., lemon oil 1} ozs., citronella oil 5J drachms. After 8 days add 1 liter of orange-flower water.
Glycerin hair tonic. —Glycerin of 28° B. 1 quart, borax 1 oz., rose water 2 quarts, alcohol 4 ozs., oils of petit-grain and cloves each 2 drachms, rosemary oil 4 drachms.
Dissolve the borax in the water, the perfume in the alcohol, and mix all together. It should be clear. Color yellow, if desired, with saffron tincture.
Eau lustral (hair restorative). —Castor oil 2 quarts, linseed oil and tincture of cantharides each 4 ozs., alcohol 13 quarts, bergamot oil 2 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., clove oil J oz., neroli oil 2 drachms.
Mix the two fat oils and dissolve them in the alcohol by agitation. Then add the tincture of cantharides and the perfumes, and color red with cochineal tincture or henna tincture.
Tea hair tonic. —Bay rum 2 ozs., glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 2 ozs., infusion of black tea 10 ozs. Mix and perfume to suit. The tea infusion should be made very strong, say 1 oz. of best tea (best quality) to 10 ozs. of boiling water, let stand till cool, strain, and add the other ingredients.

...and there's more, but I'll stop there....

The text given here is converted from a scan of a print book. The process of converting a scanned image to text often goofs on the numbers. If you want the correct numbers for a particular recipe or three, let me know. I'll look at the scanned images of the original book and verify.

 

[DeeAnna]

Couldn't help you much with the Vitalis, Gent, but I hope Carl Deite gives you some ideas to play with.

I do remember my father used Vitalis faithfully back in the day when it was probably more of a simple oil mixture than the modern mix of ingredients.

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

DeeAnna, you are a star!

It look like I can tweak my Bay Rum cologne recipe with more alcohol, with a wee bit of glycerin and/or castor.

I'm thinking of the Tea one above, so taking 2oz Bay Rum cologne, 2oz Vodka, 10oz black tea (earl grey, of course). Would some Castor or another oil be a suitable sub for the glycerine? I'm thinking oil as the Vitalis had a slight holding quality about it - less than a pure pomade, but still some.

 

[DeeAnna]

Castor (at least regular castor) is not water soluble. I think there is a sulfonated castor that is water soluble. Castor (the normal kind) is soluble in 96% ethanol (aka rectified spirits aka "Everclear" in the US) at 2.5 parts ethanol to 1 part castor.

I really wouldn't count on castor (or any other oil) staying in solution in your recipe. Vodka is 40% alcohol and you're diluting it further with your Earl Grey. I'd honestly recommend you stick with the glycerin, which is fully water soluble.

Vitalis, at least my dad's version, was a clear golden liquid. Fairly thin viscosity with a distinct alcohol, spice, and even a solvent-y kind of scent. Definitely more oily than glycerin-y.

PS: A bit of trivia -- Diete's "Portugal oil" = sweet orange oil. His "alcohol" would have been rectified spirits as defined above.

 

[anani]

The SD Alcohol could be substituted with Everclear or high proof Vodka.

PPG-40 Butyl Ether is the same as Propylene Glycol which can usually be substituted with Glycerin.

Benzyl Benzoate is likely used as a fragrance component. It occurs naturally in essential oils, and is found in Ylang ylang, Rosewood, Cinnamon and Benzoin. You could use any essential oil you like. There are many that are great for hair and scalp.

The Dihydroabietyl Alcohol is a sticky resin and is likely what gives this product some "hold" Not sure what you could use here that is easily found.

You'd have to play around with the percentages of each until you got a similar product but it's a fun thing to do!

 

[cmzaha]

That looks like a fun book to have DeeAnna, thanks for the info. I just ordered it from Amazon. Vitalis was a standard tonic always in my dad's barber shop

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

And alas I have just placed a massive order, with out glycerine..........doh!

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Just seen that I can buy it in Boots Chemists in the UK - handy, as I'm flying over tomorrow.

So -

2oz Bay Rum cologne, 2oz Vodka, 2oz glycerin, 10oz black tea (earl grey, of course).

Sounds like a plan.

I think for the more Vitalis smell, which I have read is pretty much alcohol, I could use maybe 3oz vodka and 9oz water instead of the tea, maybe?

 

[DeeAnna]

Gent -- It sounds like your vodka-alcohol mix would work. The tea sounds nice too -- what about using it for the plain water?

Carolyn -- I hope you didn't pay anything for the e-book. It's available for free from the internetarchive.org

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Gent -- It sounds like your vodka-alcohol mix would work. The tea sounds nice too -- what about using it for the plain water?

Carolyn -- I hope you didn't pay anything for the e-book. It's available for free from the internetarchive.org

I'll make one batch with the tea, one batch with the plain water, but change the ratio to be slightly more alcohol based. That one I might try without the bay rum to see how it smells.

Thanks so much for all the help on this

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Made a batch of the Earl Grey one. It's nice.

But I made the mistake of drinking the last of the Earl Grey, forgetting that it was about 10x normal strength!

 

[Lolly58]

When I was in jr high my hair was and is very fine and fly away, so my mother would put vitalis in my hair so the barrettes would stay in. It was awful. Everyone thought I never washed my hair. Lol
Good luck with your endeavor.

 

[DeeAnna]

"...But I made the mistake of drinking the last of the Earl Grey, forgetting that it was about 10x normal strength! ..."

Oh my, Gent! I bet that made you pucker up!

Lolly -- I know what you mean. My dad used Vitalis. He only used a tiny bit, and it looked fine the way he used it, but the stuff can really make hair look greasy if dosed with a generous hand.

 

[The Efficacious Gentleman]

Oh my, Gent! I bet that made you pucker up! .

It did! Trouble is, it was tea, I'm an Englishman, so I had to finish it all regardless.

I had used my Bay Rum cologne directly on my hair for a wee while, but I can feel the difference with the glycerin in there - a bit of hold and a darker, sleeker look. Very "Mad Men"