Using essential and fragrance oils in CP

[Guest]

It seems these can cause problems for some people — separation, weird consistencies...

Does anyone have any tips on using EOs and FOs, or any advice on how to avoid these common problems in CP?

Also, since saponification creates heat and too much heat destroys the EO/FO, how do you get around this?

 

[MikeInPdx]

It seems these can cause problems for some people — separation, weird consistencies...

Does anyone have any tips on using EOs and FOs, or any advice on how to avoid these common problems in CP?

Also, since saponification creates heat and too much heat destroys the EO/FO, how do you get around this?

I find that, when using FOs, that adding them at the very beginning along with my measured oils makes all the difference in how they behave. A floral that gives you soap on a stick may just accelerate slightly or be fine. The scents on FOs also come through just fine.

I wouldn't worry about FOs that much regarding heat. Most of mine are in the 200F flashpoint range, so they handle the saponification process fine.

Regarding EO's, I fine that my eucalyptus soap is stronger and truer if I don't let it gell.....you can do this by not insulating the mold, or better yet, popping the uninsulated mold in the freezer or fridge for a bit. It will still saponify, and the EO fragrance will be stronger and truer. Just be aware, it takes a little longer before it doesn't "zap"

 

[Guest]

I find that, when using FOs, that adding them at the very beginning along with my measured oils makes all the difference in how they behave. A floral that gives you soap on a stick may just accelerate slightly or be fine. The scents on FOs also come through just fine.

I wouldn't worry about FOs that much regarding heat. Most of mine are in the 200F flashpoint range, so they handle the saponification process fine.

Regarding EO's, I fine that my eucalyptus soap is stronger and truer if I don't let it gell.....you can do this by not insulating the mold, or better yet, popping the uninsulated mold in the freezer or fridge for a bit. It will still saponify, and the EO fragrance will be stronger and truer. Just be aware, it takes a little longer before it doesn't "zap"

Thanks Mike. So you add your EO/FOs before you add the lye? Does it make a difference if you add them at or just before trace?

 

[MikeInPdx]

I only add my FOs before the lye...EOs are more delicate and I add them at trace.....they tend to be better behaved too, so it's not a biggie.

I find that a seizing FO, added before the lye, and soaped cool will GENERALLY behave pretty well.....adding them just at or just before trace will cause soap on a stick with me.

Of course, I do have a really great smelling rose from SOS that I now only HP.....it will go from 0 to soap on a stick in less than 15 seconds HAND STIRRING in CP.