Syndet Shampoo Bar Trials

[KiwiMoose]

Here's my current recipe that's being tested by myself and friends. Please feel free to comment on ingredients because I am totally shooting in the dark here. I would be interested to know if you have any suggestions for improvement. I have made the decision to NOT use cocamidopropyl betaine due to the likelihood of it being a known irritant to eczema sufferers. And that's quite a major ingredient to work around.
This recipe is a pourable one, not a pressed one.

SCI 135g
SLSA 45g
Varisoft EQ65 30g
Cetyl Alcohol 18g
Capryl Glucoside 15g
DLS 15g
Shea Butter 15g
Decyl Glucoside 9g
Provitamin B5 6g
Vegetable Silicone 3g
Lactic Acid 3g
Silk Protein 3g
Euxyl 3g

Fragrance 5g

 

[Kcryss]

Thanks for starting this thread KiwiMoose! Following

 

[Quilter99755]

I too will be following. All the chemistry is beyond me right now. Maybe after the holidays I can get my brain to settle down and digest this a little better.

 

[SideDoorSoaps]

How long did it take for your bars to set up? My recipe turned out pretty gummy and pliable, not quite pourable.

 

[atiz]

How long did it take for your bars to set up? My recipe turned out pretty gummy and pliable, not quite pourable.

I have not worked with this particular recipe, but mine is usually pretty thick -- don't think of pourable like thin trace but the "somehow I can quickly gulp it into the mold and it will be fine" kind of pourable. Like thick chocolate cream -- thick and sticky. It's not really my favorite thing to make, but I only make about 1 at a time, since Kiwi's batch size would last me for ever...

After pouring, mine is usually set in a few hours, but I like leaving it alone for a few days at least (or a week if I can) in order for it to harden and dry out a bit more. I think it helps with its overall lifespan.

 

[KiwiMoose]

Yes mine is as described by Atiz^. If you don't pour it within 3 seconds - you can't pour it. In fact I usually pour two, put it back on the double boiler for a sec to stir it, pour another two, back on the double boiler, and pour the last two. You can unmold in one hour and it's a bit tacky, but within two, it's slick on the bottom.

 

[Mobjack Bay]

@KiwiMoose Thank you for sharing the recipe. I need to do a lot of reading before I delve into syndet bars, but it’s definitely easier to get started with a recipe in hand. I find that reading and learning about each of the ingredients is a whole lot easier than reading about every possible ingredient. I’m happy to be an apprentice to my wiser, more experienced soaping sistah .

 

[Gaisy59]

Here's my current recipe that's being tested by myself and friends. Please feel free to comment on ingredients because I am totally shooting in the dark here. I would be interested to know if you have any suggestions for improvement. I have made the decision to NOT use cocamidopropyl betaine due to the likelihood of it being a known irritant to eczema sufferers. And that's quite a major ingredient to work around.
This recipe is a pourable one, not a pressed one.

SCI 135g
SLSA 45g
Varisoft EQ65 30g
Cetyl Alcohol 18g
Capryl Glucoside 15g
DLS 15g
Shea Butter 15g
Decyl Glucoside 9g
Provitamin B5 6g
Vegetable Silicone 3g
Lactic Acid 3g
Silk Protein 3g
Euxyl 3g

Fragrance 5g

Hi KiwiMoose I just found your recipe. So from Swift Craft Monkey it looks to me like this would be for someone with normal to oily hair and has a very high ph. Someone with curly hair as I have would need a ph around 5-7. Your Varisoft has ph of around 11, decyl glycoside has ph of 11. Definitely not moisturizing for your curly friend. I stayed away from Varisoft as SCM and even Dahila said you have to do a lot of ph adjusting if you use this ingredient.

 

[KiwiMoose]

Hi KiwiMoose I just found your recipe. So from Swift Craft Monkey it looks to me like this would be for someone with normal to oily hair and has a very high ph. Someone with curly hair as I have would need a ph around 5-7. Your Varisoft has ph of around 11, decyl glycoside has ph of 11. Definitely not moisturizing for your curly friend. I stayed away from Varisoft as SCM and even Dahila said you have to do a lot of ph adjusting if you use this ingredient.

Thanks Gaisy. I used Varisoft instead of Stearic acid and cetearyl alcohol - maybe I should just switch back to using those?
ETA - Hang on, my data sheet says the pH is between 4 - 6 for Varisoft EQ65.

 

[Gaisy59]

Thanks Gaisy. I used Varisoft instead of Stearic acid and cetearyl alcohol - maybe I should just switch back to using those?
ETA - Hang on, my data sheet says the pH is between 4 - 6 for Varisoft EQ65.

Hmmm I apologize, I have tried to find where SCM said it was a high ph but cannot, and even Dahila said it can wander up to 9. So consider that bad info from me until I can find where I read it.

 

[Carolyne Thrasher]

Last night I made one with
50% sci
18%slsa
7.5 btms50
5 Cetyl alcohol
5 kokum butter
10 capB
1 panthenol (b5)
2 vegekeratin
1 fragrance
.5 optiphen

I use a press to make by shampoo bars into a puck shape. I didn't like it as much as the one I made with 70% sci and slightly lower btms 50 and capB. But I have a customer who really wants some and the recommendations from all the USA suppliers has sci at 50% usage rate. I think this stinks because I suspect this is for liquid products not syndet bars. I have read both switchcraft monkey and bespoke's books. I like bespoke's formulas better.

 

[SideDoorSoaps]

Someone with curly hair as I have would need a ph around 5-7.

@KiwiMoose, did you pH test your bar? I tested mine and it was a 6.5. I have thick, wavy ethnic-ish hair (I’m part Filipina and Spanish) and my Hair did feel squeaky clean right after washing and after drying a bit tangly but very shiny. I may have to bring the ph down some.

I think I also need more conditioning properties...a conditioner bar is up next!

 

[KiwiMoose]

@KiwiMoose, did you pH test your bar? I tested mine and it was a 6.5. I have thick, wavy ethnic-ish hair (I’m part Filipina and Spanish) and my Hair did feel squeaky clean right after washing and after drying a bit tangly but very shiny. I may have to bring the ph down some.

I think I also need more conditioning properties...a conditioner bar is up next!

No - I need to test mine. I do use the lactic acid to bring it down a bit. But a pH meter will set me back about $NZ55 so I've been putting it off.

Is this suitable? It seems very cheap. https://www.thewarehouse.co.nz/p/mc...VzSMrCh0aFgeIEAQYAiABEgJF5PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Or is this better? https://www.jaycar.co.nz/hand-held-ph-meter/p/QM1670

Or this one? https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-...tm?rsqid=65e7d66ef9684a08adb1477e13a9fcde-001

Why the difference in price?

 

[SoaperForLife]

First one is for soil pH testing. Can you do Amazon? I bought this one a few months ago to replace one that broke: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ENFOHN8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[SideDoorSoaps]

I’m not sure what the difference in price is so much. “You get what you pay for” is the reasoning I’ve been hearing. I was recommended one like this: WeekStar Digital, 0.01 High Accuracy Pocket Size Meter/PH 0-14.0 Measuring Range, Quality Tester for Household Drinking Water, Swimming Pools, Aquariums, YELLOW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RY488QV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F1L-DbWMAHAWX

 

[Eepa]

I'm using this recipe. It's pretty good for my hair, although I only use it while travelling. At home I have liquid shampoo that I've made myself too, and I prefer that in the long term. This is little too drying for my hair in longer use but I'm too lazy to tweak it. =P My scalp oily and itchy due tandruff and my hair has permanent curls to control the oiliness so it's prone to drying.

Heated phase
30 g SCI (30%)
15 g Cocamidopropyl betaine (15%)
22 g SLSa (22%)
10 g Plantapon LGC (10%)
3 g Cetyl alcohol (3%)
3 g BTMS (3%)
5 g Cocoa butter (5%)
4 g Coconut oil (4%)
2 g Silk protein (2%)

Cool down phase
2 g Panthenol (2%)
2 g Lupine seed extract (2%)
1 g Saboderm CV (1%)
1 g Iscaguard (1%)

 

[KiwiMoose]

Thanks for sharing your recipes @Carolyne Thrasher and @Eepa - it's good to see what works for others. I still think my new tweaked recipe is a little drying - although I find it ok. I will wait for the arrival of my pH meter next week to see if high pH is a problem.

 

[KiwiMoose]

My pH is 4.5!

 

[Gaisy59]

My pH is 4.5!

OMG that is fantastic! Very happy that this worked!

 

[SideDoorSoaps]

Hooray!!