Sugar Scrub and Preservatives

[Fernando Sage]

Hi everyone, I think I need some help with preservatives.

Our sugar scrubs don’t last much more than a couple of months. I have tried OPTIPHEN and Germall Plus. With Germall it lasts a bit longer but I believe 2 months is too fast.

We also make lotions with OPTIPHEN and we have no issues but the sugar scrub goes bad very fast. The one on the picture was produced on May 10th.

OPTIPHEN I was using at 1.5% and Germall 0.5%

What could it be?

 

[justjacqui]

What are the ingredients in your sugar scrub? Botanical ingredients can make it go bad very fast.

Are you sure it is microbiological contamination? Does it smell bad?

If you are using cocoa butter or shea butter it could it be blooming of the fats in these raw materials.

 

[Fernando Sage]

Hi Justjacqui, thanks for helping us out.

The one on the picture was made with:

Shea Butter
Coconut Oil
Jojoba Oil
Argan Oil
Sweet Almond Oil

Olivem 1000
Cetyl Alcohol

Vitamine E
Squalene
Germall Plus
Essential Oils

It doesn’t smell bad but looks horrible lol. It still smells like the essential oils.

What do you mean by the “blooming” of the fats?

 

[justjacqui]

From your list of ingredients is doesn't look to be a microbial contamination problem rather that it is more likely to be a crystallization problem.

The term "blooming" comes from chocolate making but basically refers to the different components of the butter melting and recrystallizing during storage due to fluctuating temperatures.

Shea butter is well known for becoming "grainy" when used is balms and other anhydrous formulas because it easy to melt and recrystallize at temperatures that are commonly encountered during storage.

There are additives that you can add to your formula (E.g. Cerra Bellina and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate) that can help prevent this crystallization occurring or you can try reducing your shea in your formula.

The coconut oil also melts at room temperature so this could also be causing issues with crystallization.

Hope this helps

 

[Fernando Sage]

Oh wow! I have discarded so many jars of sugar scrub already. It’s been driving me crazy seeing those spots.

Do you know if there’s anyway to confirm if that’s what it is?

 

[AliOop]

I agree with @justjacqui - that looks more like fat bloom or shea grains than any kind of rancidity. If it doesn't smell bad, that's a big clue. Also, you can scoop up some of those white spots, and see if they feel grainier or harder than the rest of the scrub. If so, then it's crystallization of the fats.

 

[paradisi]

There are microbial contamination test kits available from various suppliers (lotioncrafter have them I think).
Though without watery ingredients I agree that contamination may be unlikely.

Oh wow! I have discarded so many jars of sugar scrub already. It’s been driving me crazy seeing those spots.

Do you know if there’s anyway to confirm if that’s what it is?

 

[Fernando Sage]

I am convinced it’s the shea butter. I saw those spots appear 2 days after I prepared my last batch.
I will reduce the shea on my formula as suggested.
Any suggestions on how to deal with it on the products that are ready to sell?
Should I scoop it out? Maybe use my candle blower to melt it? Stir it with a sterilized glass stick?
Other ideas?

Thanks everyone for all the knowledge shared.

 

[AliOop]

Honestly, I wouldn't use shea butter for sugar scrubs, unless you use one of the additives recommended above by @justjacqui. Otherwise, it will always be at risk for going grainy due to temperature changes, if not during shipping, then definitely while in the customers' shower.

You can't really remelt what you've already made, as that will cause the sugar to melt, too. If you still want to sell what you've already made, perhaps include some kind of handout explaining how it is normal for grainy bits to happen with shea butter.

 

[DeeAnna]

I don't think ~reducing~ the shea is going to solve this problem. Any amount of shea is going to crystallize out.

IMO, it's more likely you'll need to remove it entirely from your formulation. I'd make small test batches to verify.

As far as fixing the current product that does contain shea, that's going to be near impossible.