What I seek to create is a general leather cleaner good for all kind of leather. Mainly shoes/boots/and other hard leathers. However should I be able to come up with something that would clean deerskin, pigskin, and other softer leathers would be ideal.
DeAnna, it occurred to me the other day that all soft leathers may have that "brand new red shirt - bleeding into the washer" kind of excess dye. That is why I tried a commercial brand on the softer leather. But tonight, I wonder something else. Perhaps if I made plain soap - THEN added my extra ingredients after the fact... shaved it down and added my beewax and lanolin it would tone down any harshness by cutting the soap with conditioners...
I am the creator and owner of a business called Boot Rub LLC and make a leather conditioner that works on ALL kinds of leather. We are a small business, for sale in 6 stores and online. It contains the three key ingredients that I'd like to carry over to the leather soap I am creating. (or not-so-much creating at this point) (walnut oil, beeswax, and lanolin) It is for continuity of a product line that I am trying to use the same ingredients.
Thank you, Science person, (Green soap) for that wonderful explanation of molecules, and such! I had spoken to an organic chemist earlier this summer and he, too, said the same things you did... though he was trying to get me to use less lye rather than a different oil. I love that the oil's harshness/mildness properties are similar by the way you explained it, and wonder what kind of shelf life you're talking... 1 month? 3? a year? two? Do you think using olive oil with a dash of walnut oil would be counter productive? Also, since it isn't being eaten, would walnut oil soap - gone bad - be harmful to leather? The only difference I've experienced in the older tins of boot rub is that after a year or so it tends to get a bit pasty, but if reheated to a liquid, that will go away.
Thank you also Lindy for your comments.
DeAnna, it occurred to me the other day that all soft leathers may have that "brand new red shirt - bleeding into the washer" kind of excess dye. That is why I tried a commercial brand on the softer leather. But tonight, I wonder something else. Perhaps if I made plain soap - THEN added my extra ingredients after the fact... shaved it down and added my beewax and lanolin it would tone down any harshness by cutting the soap with conditioners...
I am the creator and owner of a business called Boot Rub LLC and make a leather conditioner that works on ALL kinds of leather. We are a small business, for sale in 6 stores and online. It contains the three key ingredients that I'd like to carry over to the leather soap I am creating. (or not-so-much creating at this point) (walnut oil, beeswax, and lanolin) It is for continuity of a product line that I am trying to use the same ingredients.
Thank you, Science person, (Green soap) for that wonderful explanation of molecules, and such! I had spoken to an organic chemist earlier this summer and he, too, said the same things you did... though he was trying to get me to use less lye rather than a different oil. I love that the oil's harshness/mildness properties are similar by the way you explained it, and wonder what kind of shelf life you're talking... 1 month? 3? a year? two? Do you think using olive oil with a dash of walnut oil would be counter productive? Also, since it isn't being eaten, would walnut oil soap - gone bad - be harmful to leather? The only difference I've experienced in the older tins of boot rub is that after a year or so it tends to get a bit pasty, but if reheated to a liquid, that will go away.
Thank you also Lindy for your comments.