Soda Ash or glycerin Rivers??
- Thread starter AIRDOG
- Start date
Help Support Soapmaking Forum:
If the color change runs through the bars, it's probably glycerine, if it's just on the surface it's probably ash.
What's it look like inside?? My rivers have been internal. With Ash external. Just a newby also.
If your recipe is lye-heavy or improperly mixed, it could also be excess lye. But I'm assuming you've done a zap test to rule that out.
I'm using soapqueen calculator with a good scale yo Wright... Gonna cut one....looks like it's just soda Ash, should i discount lye ir maybe its unevenly mixed... I have Many batches of aesthetic faulty soap.... I read somewhere i can chop it and melt it with some additional glycerin so it melts better... Did one test and result definitely looks better but gotta Lot of glycerin dew... Last pic is the one remelted with a bit of glycerine, You can see little bubbles and sweat... But it is still better looking.... I dunno if i want to stick ti melting with added glycerine ir try ti melt it by itself and just some water... It' didnt want to melt nicely at 140F so i used My stick blender... Ibwould apreciatte any suggestion
Attachments
If the ash bothers you, why not just cut the tops off? You could also steam it, rinse it in distilled water, or rub it off, but I haven't found these methods as effective as cutting.
As far as prevention goes, you've told us nothing about your formula other than that it's CP. A brief perusal of your other posts suggests you're struggling with trace, so I would not recommend lowering the water. You might try lightly spraying the tops of your soap with rubbing alcohol once it's poured, or making sure the soap goes through gel without overheating it, or covering your soap with plastic, wood, or other non-reactive airtight material to restrict it's access to air. Or you could do all three, but make sure to put an absorbent material such as cloth under the airtight one so condensation doesn't drip down on the soap as it's going through gel.
As far as prevention goes, you've told us nothing about your formula other than that it's CP. A brief perusal of your other posts suggests you're struggling with trace, so I would not recommend lowering the water. You might try lightly spraying the tops of your soap with rubbing alcohol once it's poured, or making sure the soap goes through gel without overheating it, or covering your soap with plastic, wood, or other non-reactive airtight material to restrict it's access to air. Or you could do all three, but make sure to put an absorbent material such as cloth under the airtight one so condensation doesn't drip down on the soap as it's going through gel.
I use a loaf mold, pour, spray with alcohol, cover with plastic wrap, cover with towels to gel. I never have gotten ash that way.
penelopejane
Well-Known Member
^^ Zing has given you a method to avoid soda ash.
You can also soap at 110*F and you will avoid ash and ash swirls through the soap.
Sometimes swirls are caused by Coconut oil or Palm oil that isn't melted enough.
If you pour a mix too thin (too close to emulsion) it can cause ash.
Adding glycerin to it will not help and it might just make your soap too soft. You may have over blended it to get those bubbles thorough out the soap.
If you give us your recipe we might be able to help further.
Here is a great video about getting to emulsion.
You can also soap at 110*F and you will avoid ash and ash swirls through the soap.
Sometimes swirls are caused by Coconut oil or Palm oil that isn't melted enough.
If you pour a mix too thin (too close to emulsion) it can cause ash.
Adding glycerin to it will not help and it might just make your soap too soft. You may have over blended it to get those bubbles thorough out the soap.
If you give us your recipe we might be able to help further.
Here is a great video about getting to emulsion.
Three ways to prevent soda ash. 1-Water discount, 2-Pour at a thicker trace, 3-Cover the soap until it has fully saponified, up to 48 hours. I have never found spraying with alcohol to help in any way. Soda ash is sodium carbonate - it happens when the unreacted lye reacts with the carbon dioxide in the air. Also, when rebatching, don't add glycerin - that just makes the soap soft and it will attract moisture since glycerin is a humectant. Add a little bit of water - and really, here I mean just a little bit - if you add too much water it will take forever for that water to evaporate out.
Great advice, @linne1gi.
Spraying with RA has never helped me, either, but some folks swear by it, so I always mention it as a possibility for reducing ash, in case it works for them.
Gelling the soap - whether by insulating, CPOP, heat pads - can also reduce the likelihood or amount of ash. Again, not for everyone, but this is a significant one for me.
Because "water discount" has no standard meaning, I prefer to say, "Use less water" or "use a higher lye concentration."
You're right - so many people tell me they use a 10% water discount. What does that mean? 10% of what? So yes, it is better to be more specific. I usually use a 33% lye solution (2:1 water to lye ratio), but with some soaps I use a 1.5:1 ratio and sometimes a 1.875:1, all depends on my soap recipe.
