Soaps are very drying
- Thread starter shaan
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You are right, sorry. I didn't put in 500grms of oil so it came out wrong. Your soap shouldn't be drying with those numbers. the only thing I can think of besides a longer cure is to replace the coconut oil with palm kernel oil, some people have a sensitivity to coconut. You could also try a 100% olive oil but it has a very long cure time.
jenfrat
Well-Known Member
I've been talking with some people on facebook about making soap more conditioning. The recipe I've been using (35% lard, 15% CO, 15% OO, 15% RBO, 7.5% sweet almond, 7.5% avacado, & 5% castor) has been leaving me (for lack of a better term) a bit ashy. I've been wondering if adding colloidal oatmeal would help. Another poster told me that she completely replaced the CO with lard in her recipe. She's not using CO or PO and has a nice conditioning soap that still cleans quite well. Something to consider! 
jblaney
Well-Known Member
I use all Babassu oil in my soap as a replacement for CO since it dries my skin out and I'm sensitive to it. I don't like the feel of PKO personally, although many people do. Everyone is so different and you will have to play around to see what works for you and your family.
If you have hard water, real soaps like CP and HP will react with the minerals in the water and create deposits that stay on the skin which are very drying. I have extremely hard water and I find that there is a balance between using enough CO to get good sudsing (hard water also reduces the amount of suds you get), but not too much to be drying and also and having a high enough sf to keep my skin from getting dry. If you don't know whether you have hard water or not, this is an easy way to tell: When you are rinsing off the soap, does your skin feel slippery or more squeaky-clean? Slippery is soft water, squeaky is hard water.
DottieF.
Well-Known Member
Shaan, I have hard water and use a basic olive, coconut & palm recipe. It is not at all drying but I do use a 9% discount. My recipe is for a 12# batch--I use 5# olive, 4# palm (not palm kernal) and 3# coconut. I let my soap cure for 6 weeks and all go through a hot gel phase. I have tried it many times right after unmolding and it's not drying (to me). As others have mentioned, you may just be sensitive to coconut. Dottie
judymoody
Well-Known Member
If you want to be more scientific about identifying what bothers your skin, I'd start with a single oil soap (100% olive oil at 7-8% SF, for example). If that doesn't irritate, then maybe try 90% OO and 10% castor. And so on. It will take awhile but you will get clearer results. As you are doing 500 gram batches, it won't be costly with respect to materials.
Over time, I found that my husband needs a higher cleansing number than I do. I had to tweak awhile before I came up with the right SF to offset the higher coconut oil. I also find coconut oil (and PKO) drying in larger %.
Over time, I found that my husband needs a higher cleansing number than I do. I had to tweak awhile before I came up with the right SF to offset the higher coconut oil. I also find coconut oil (and PKO) drying in larger %.
Dahila
Well-Known Member
Maybe you should try to make shampoo bar and use it for the body. Lindy shampoo bars are the only one i use, for my fine hair and for the body,; extra sensitive skin, and allergic to a lot of things.
The other one I made and is not drying had only ten percent of CO. Less bubbly but the skin is awesome. My son who has a very bad case of eczema loves it.
The other one I made and is not drying had only ten percent of CO. Less bubbly but the skin is awesome. My son who has a very bad case of eczema loves it.
So far the soaps that I have found the most moisturizing are Genny's shampoo bars (that IS a lovely facial bar as well), and my salt bars with 20% SF - the one with 15% shea, 5% castor and 80% CO is lovely.
This one > http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=30946
(which I personally think should be stickied or enshrined or something)
You dont need to read the whole beast thread, the recipe is in the first post, but I learned a lot reading the thread.
(which I personally think should be stickied or enshrined or something)
You dont need to read the whole beast thread, the recipe is in the first post, but I learned a lot reading the thread.
judymoody
Well-Known Member
Thanx Judy..I will make a 100% olive oil tomorrow..but its such a long waiting time of six months..
For the purposes of determining if it irritates or dries your skin, you don't need to wait 6 months. You could try it at 4 weeks. It will be better (less slime and harder) at 6 months but you would get an idea.
For Castille, I would take a water discount to help with bar hardness.
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