Soap recipe for older thin skin

[Punkerdoodle’s Homestead]

Ordered a MP kit to get my daughter and I started, Saturday is the big day!

I’m also looking for my first recipe to do my first batch using lard or goats milk or both. An additional reason for interest in making our soap is my skin. I take daily transplant medication that is brutal to my skin and my bride suggested looking for a recipe to help what I call old thin skin. The medication causes my skin to be thin, dry, ashey, and bruise/tear easily. I’ve tried about every brand and Ivory is about the least irritating and Dove seems to help dryness a little.

Although it would be nice to find a miracle cure I am just shooting for something that doesn’t make it worse and maybe even reduce the need for lotion. Having a homestead I’m constantly washing from my elbows to fingers so the right soap would be the best bang for the buck.

Does anyone have a recipe that might work, suggestions on oils to try, or ingredients to avoid? Just need a nudge in the right direction. Thx

 

[artemis]

Lard is a good place to start. I'd hold off on the goat's milk for now-- it's a tricky ingredient. Best to get a couple of simple batches under your belt first.

Have you looked at any of the soap calculat0rs yet? The recipes we give you will be in percentages and need to be run through one of the calculat0rs to get the measurements. I like Soapee.com

 

[AliOop]

I second the lard recommendation and the recommendation not to use GM right now. While many people find that GM is helpful for their skin, that is probably due to the lactic acid that works as a chemical exfoliator. It doesn't sounds like any type of exfoliation would be good for your skin at this time. If you do eventually try it, I'd start with a very small area of skin to see how it goes.

Back to your recipe... consider a starting point of 100% lard with 4% of oil weight in sugar (pre-dissolved in the water), That sugar will help the soap lather more easily without adding the cleansing nature of bubbly oils like coconut or babassu. I'd set the SF to 2% SF to limit the amount of soap scum.

These bars will need a good long cure - at least 8 weeks - before they work well. I also find that 100% lard soaps benefit from a little soaking in water before the first use only (after that, keep them well-drained). The pre-soak before first use seems to assist with getting past the rather hard "shell" they develop during the longer cure. Alternatively, you can also rub it against a wet washcloth to get the lather going.

 

[Punkerdoodle’s Homestead]

Lard is a good place to start. I'd hold off on the goat's milk for now-- it's a tricky ingredient. Best to get a couple of simple batches under your belt first.

Have you looked at any of the soap calculat0rs yet? The recipes we give you will be in percentages and need to be run through one of the calculat0rs to get the measurements. I like Soapee.com

I’ve looked at some of the calculators but need to learn a few things. For example on the oils there were 3 types of olive oil and there is a chart with soap properties and number ranges. Still need to learn all that kinda stuff and am sure I’ll have questions.

 

[artemis]

For example on the oils there were 3 types of olive oil...

Which calc are you looking at? I just looked at three of them and each had only two.

If the calculat0r you are using is too confusing, just try another. They each have their strengths and weaknesses.

 

[Punkerdoodle’s Homestead]

I second the lard recommendation and the recommendation not to use GM right now. While many people find that GM is helpful for their skin, that is probably due to the lactic acid that works as a chemical exfoliator. It doesn't sounds like any type of exfoliation would be good for your skin at this time. If you do eventually try it, I'd start with a very small area of skin to see how it goes.

Back to your recipe... consider a starting point of 100% lard with 4% of oil weight in sugar (pre-dissolved in the water), That sugar will help the soap lather more easily without adding the cleansing nature of bubbly oils like coconut or babassu. I'd set the SF to 2% SF to limit the amount of soap scum.

These bars will need a good long cure - at least 8 weeks - before they work well. I also find that 100% lard soaps benefit from a little soaking in water before the first use only (after that, keep them well-drained). The pre-soak before first use seems to assist with getting past the rather hard "shell" they develop during the longer cure. Alternatively, you can also rub it against a wet washcloth to get the lather going.

The cure time would be for cold process and by SF you are referring to Oil Superfat, correct? Haven’t gotten deep into hot process yet and I saw a reference to a crock pot process somewhere. Would those processes be an option to eliminate cure time or would it change some sought after properties? I’ve got about 6 gallons of lard, over 80 pounds of unrendered fat, a unopened 2 1/2 gallon pail of NaOH and about 1/2 gallon of KOH in my shop among other goodies. Time to put some of that stuff to use. Thinking about doing several small batches with various recipes or variations of a base recipe.

Which calc are you looking at? I just looked at three of them and each had only two.

If the calculat0r you are using is too confusing, just try another. They each have their strengths and weaknesses.

Soapee.com lye calculator

 

[artemis]

Soapee.com lye calculator

I only see two listed there: olive oil and olive oil pomace. Some people like pomace, but I think most of if use plain old olive oil.

 

[AliOop]

The cure time would be for cold process and by SF you are referring to Oil Superfat, correct? Haven’t gotten deep into hot process yet and I saw a reference to a crock pot process somewhere. Would those processes be an option to eliminate cure time or would it change some sought after properties? I’ve got about 6 gallons of lard, over 80 pounds of unrendered fat, a unopened 2 1/2 gallon pail of NaOH and about 1/2 gallon of KOH in my shop among other goodies. Time to put some of that stuff to use. Thinking about doing several small batches with various recipes or variations of a base recipe.

Oh man, I'm so jelly! I love making soap with lard, mostly rendering my own using fat from local butchers. Sounds like you are ready to rock and roll!

Yes, I was thinking specifically of cold process soap, but the cure time for hot process soap is the same. The only difference with HP is complete saponification after the cook, whereas with CP, complete saponification takes 24-72 hours. Both types of soap need curing time for the excess water to evaporate and the soap to become more solid, i.e., less likely to melt away quickly in the shower. They also become milder over time. Fresh soap is often quite harsh on the skin, even if the recipe is quite gentle.

I started with HP, but have done mostly CP for some time now. It uses less dishes, less electricity, and less time. With HP, you have to stand over a hot stove or crock pot until it is done, with very little straying during that time. Otherwise, if you turn your back too long, you risk a volcano or other mishaps. This is especially true with more modern crockpots that all run VERY hot, even on the warm setting. Older crockpots tend to have much lower temps and thus were much nicer for soapmaking, IMO.

 

[KiwiMoose]

@AliOop I would still want to put some CO in there. I know that the OP wanted something suitable for their skin, and that lard is suitable, but if they can tolerate Dove they can certainly tolerate 10% CO and 90% lard. If it's their first time making soap at all, I'd like to see how they think it compares to commercial soap before going single oil. Maybe they could try both to compare? One small batch of 100% lard and one 10%CO/90%lard?

 

[Punkerdoodle’s Homestead]

I only see two listed there: olive oil and olive oil pomace. Some people like pomace, but I think most of if use plain old olive oil.

Sorry…it was coconut oil not olive. It has 76, 92, and fractionated. Olive pomace even threw me.

 

[artemis]

Sorry…it was coconut oil not olive. It has 76, 92, and fractionated. Olive pomace even threw me.

76 is the one you want. It will be solid at room temperature (except on a hot summer day).

 

[AliOop]

@AliOop I would still want to put some CO in there. I know that the OP wanted something suitable for their skin, and that lard is suitable, but if they can tolerate Dove they can certainly tolerate 10% CO and 90% lard. If it's their first time making soap at all, I'd like to see how they think it compares to commercial soap before going single oil. Maybe they could try both to compare? One small batch of 100% lard and one 10%CO/90%lard?

Great point about tolerating Dove -
Since that is the case, a little CO is unlikely to hurt!

 

[Quilter99755]

Well, I have old, thin skin! In my quest for a soap that didn't make my skin itch, I tried everything commercial...Dove, Ivory, Olay, you name it. It wasn't until someone gifted me a bar of actual soap that I could get through a day without slathering lotion over my body. That's when my soaping quest started. My first was the old standby trio of olive oil, palm oil and coconut oil. It was great for a while and then sent me back to itching. I found more info than I wanted here, but after learning and testing, all of my soaps now contain lard.

I prefer lard with rice bran oil and cocoa butter( or shea butter), but both my hubby and grandson like my 85% lard, 10% coconut oil and 5% castor oil. They like the bubbles, which is why I have kept the 5% castor oil in the recipe. One day I will run out of castor oil and probably go with 90% lard and 10% CO like @KiwiMoose

As KiwiMoose suggested, start with testing batches...500 grams to 1000 grams...so you can find out what you like best. I also give my lard soaps 6-8 weeks of curing...no matter if I am doing CP or HP soaping. Getting that first few batches to a nice cure is hard, but once you find your sweet spot in soaps you will be able to get even longer cures to see if that helps the mildness. This might not get rid of lotion altogether....I put lotion on my hands every time they get cleaned, but it has helped with the need for lotion on the rest of my body and I no longer have sand paper feet. Good luck in your quest for your go-to recipe in soap.

 

[katili]

I prefer lard with rice bran oil and cocoa butter( or shea butter), but both my hubby and grandson like my 85% lard, 10% coconut oil and 5% castor oil. They like the bubbles, which is why I have kept the 5% castor oil in the recipe. One day I will run out of castor oil and probably go with 90% lard and 10% CO like @KiwiMoose

Oh I'll have to try this one too lol, I'm trying to find the perfect lard recipe for me Can I ask what superfat you all prefer for the lard/coconut/castor?

 

[Quilter99755]

I live in an old house and worry about clogging pipes. I use 2% SF in all of my recipes. And I noticed a big reduction in soap scum as soon as I reduced the SF. At least it is a simple recipe with easy to find oils. The older I get, the more I reduce the number of ingredients in my soap. I did try 100% lard and didn't like it....too much of a good thing is not always a good thing! LOL

 

[Punkerdoodle’s Homestead]

Oh man, I'm so jelly! I love making soap with lard, mostly rendering my own using fat from local butchers. Sounds like you are ready to rock and roll!

Yes, I was thinking specifically of cold process soap, but the cure time for hot process soap is the same. The only difference with HP is complete saponification after the cook, whereas with CP, complete saponification takes 24-72 hours. Both types of soap need time for the excess water to evaporate and the soap to become more solid, i.e., less likely to melt away quickly in the shower. They also become milder over time. Fresh soap is often quite harsh on the skin, even if the recipe is quite gentle.

I started with HP, but have done mostly CP for some time now. It uses less dishes, less electricity, and less time. With HP, you have to stand over a hot stove or crock pot until it is done, with very little straying during that time. Otherwise, if you turn your back too long, you risk a volcano or other mishaps. This is especially true with more modern crockpots that all run VERY hot, even on the warm setting. Older crockpots tend to have much lower temps and thus were much nicer for soapmaking, IMO.

Thanks for that info on the processes and curing.

Well, I have old, thin skin! In my quest for a soap that didn't make my skin itch, I tried everything commercial...Dove, Ivory, Olay, you name it. It wasn't until someone gifted me a bar of actual soap that I could get through a day without slathering lotion over my body. That's when my soaping quest started. My first was the old standby trio of olive oil, palm oil and coconut oil. It was great for a while and then sent me back to itching. I found more info than I wanted here, but after learning and testing, all of my soaps now contain lard.

I prefer lard with rice bran oil and cocoa butter( or shea butter), but both my hubby and grandson like my 85% lard, 10% coconut oil and 5% castor oil. They like the bubbles, which is why I have kept the 5% castor oil in the recipe. One day I will run out of castor oil and probably go with 90% lard and 10% CO like @KiwiMoose

As KiwiMoose suggested, start with testing batches...500 grams to 1000 grams...so you can find out what you like best. I also give my lard soaps 6-8 weeks of curing...no matter if I am doing CP or HP soaping. Getting that first few batches to a nice cure is hard, but once you find your sweet spot in soaps you will be able to get even longer cures to see if that helps the mildness. This might not get rid of lotion altogether....I put lotion on my hands every time they get cleaned, but it has helped with the need for lotion on the rest of my body and I no longer have sand paper feet. Good luck in your quest for your go-to recipe in soap.

I plan on doing several small test batches of different recipes then refine from there. Playing around with the calculator while trying to apply the KISS method. Lard, coconut, and olive was were I started simply because I already have those on hand. I’ll look at your recipe definitely. Thx

 

[Punkerdoodle’s Homestead]

Well, I have old, thin skin! In my quest for a soap that didn't make my skin itch, I tried everything commercial...Dove, Ivory, Olay, you name it. It wasn't until someone gifted me a bar of actual soap that I could get through a day without slathering lotion over my body. That's when my soaping quest started. My first was the old standby trio of olive oil, palm oil and coconut oil. It was great for a while and then sent me back to itching. I found more info than I wanted here, but after learning and testing, all of my soaps now contain lard.

I prefer lard with rice bran oil and cocoa butter( or shea butter), but both my hubby and grandson like my 85% lard, 10% coconut oil and 5% castor oil. They like the bubbles, which is why I have kept the 5% castor oil in the recipe. One day I will run out of castor oil and probably go with 90% lard and 10% CO like @KiwiMoose

As KiwiMoose suggested, start with testing batches...500 grams to 1000 grams...so you can find out what you like best. I also give my lard soaps 6-8 weeks of curing...no matter if I am doing CP or HP soaping. Getting that first few batches to a nice cure is hard, but once you find your sweet spot in soaps you will be able to get even longer cures to see if that helps the mildness. This might not get rid of lotion altogether....I put lotion on my hands every time they get cleaned, but it has helped with the need for lotion on the rest of my body and I no longer have sand paper feet. Good luck in your quest for your go-to recipe in soap.

I did a 1 loaf test batch Sunday to start getting that learning curve going. I used 80% lard, 10% EVOO, and 10% Coconut Oil because I had those on hand to go with the lard. Had some beginners luck overall. Only real problem was orange color turned more of a pink color. It did start hardening faster than I expected, well into trace before I realized it. Really got thick when mixing in color and scent.

Cut into bars today and cross section was consistent. It really got hot in the mold, thought I may have messed up somewhere but looks right so far. I cut one of the bars in quarters to see how curing progesses.

Could not help myself, used a little thin piece off the end to wash my hands about 32 hours after pouring. It’s cleans, good feel, so so lather, smells good, and I still have skin…no irritation or itching. Don’t think I try anywhere else until it cures some.

Still studying different oils and butters plus checking out every reviewed recipe I run across. Second batch here I come.

 

[artemis]

Had some beginners luck overall. Only real problem was orange color turned more of a pink color.

What are you using to color the soap?

 

[Punkerdoodle’s Homestead]

What are you using to color the soap?

The coloring drops that came with the kit I bought my daughter. The soap itself was a nice cream white and I colored about a 1/2 of it to layer in. Was kinda blood orange wet but hot pink when it cured. I expected it to lighten but not completely change. Still looks good just not what was intended. I’m gonna accuse my wife of doing it on purpose anyway.

 

[artemis]

The coloring drops that came with the kit I bought my daughter. The soap itself was a nice cream white and I colored about a 1/2 of it to layer in. Was kinda blood orange wet but hot pink when it cured. I expected it to lighten but not completely change. Still looks good just not what was intended. I’m gonna accuse my wife of doing it on purpose anyway.

So....
Some colorants are only mean for MP soap. The "lye monster" can mess with them. If it came in your MP kit, that's likely what happened.

Also, you just made it right? Yesterday? This is just a terminology issue, I'm sure, but your soap is not cured yet. It has saponified, but it won't be cured for a few weeks.