Soap has wet spots

[user 58006]

Hi soap fam !

So I made a big loaf of soap . 80 soaps . And when I cut the soap . There was wet pockets in my soap . I was wondering what it is and if my soap is still good ?

 

[Kcryss]

Hi soap fam !

So I made a big loaf of soap . 80 soaps . And when I cut the soap . There was wet pockets in my soap . I was wondering what it is and if my soap is still good ?

I don't know what would cause that issue, but WOW! That's a gargantuan loaf of soap!! Do you need a crane to lift that thing?! Haha, kidding ... well mostly. It must weight a LOT.

 

[Ford]

Mmm, could be several things. Any Chance of a pic? What kinda of recipe did you use. How much fo did you use?

 

[user 58006]

It’s a pine tar soap . So had to get into mold fast . First time using big loaf mold

4 percent essential oil

I don't know what would cause that issue, but WOW! That's a gargantuan loaf of soap!! Do you need a crane to lift that thing?! Haha, kidding ... well mostly. It must weight a LOT.

It was heavy lololol . I normally make 20 soaps at a time . But I’m starting a soap business launching in November . And I’m trying to get 1000 soaps . Was tired of making so many batches so went to the loaf mold

I did cut soap early . So I’m hoping that’s the case . I needed the mold

 

[lenarenee]

Hi Mike. First thing to do when you see that is to test for unsaponified lye with the zap test. In case you don't know how: Zap test | Soapy Stuff (any sign of lye burns or irritation like stinging, burning, redness, pain?) If so, it will need to be thrown out or rebatched.
If that isn't it, it's helpful if you post your recipe and process. Pine Tar moves fast, so I'm wondering how well you were able to mix it...?

Also, did it overheat? i.e. super hot, gel, crack open?

 

[user 58006]

Hi Mike. First thing to do when you see that is to test for unsaponified lye with the zap test. In case you don't know how: Zap test | Soapy Stuff (any sign of lye burns or irritation like stinging, burning, redness, pain?) If so, it will need to be thrown out or rebatched.
If that isn't it, it's helpful if you post your recipe and process. Pine Tar moves fast, so I'm wondering how well you were able to mix it...?

Also, did it overheat? i.e. super hot, gel, crack open?

Hi Lenarenee ,

Thank you for the reply . It did not over heat or crack . I did unmold and cut the soap 16 hrs after it was made .

From my understand I can’t zap test for a few days. I’ve made this recipe so many times and Never had a problem other then being late to the mold. I would like to keep my recipe to myself if that’s okay . I’m pretty sure it got mixed well . It’s such a big batch and you no pine tar . So I did whisk as much as possible . I was a little scared of loosing the batch and poorer a little sooner . I can notice some glycerin River but I like that look and get it sometime with my pine tar batches .

The only thing I would say I did different other then the batch size is cut early .

I will send more photos .

Most are fine but some are wet

 

[lenarenee]

Are the darker areas swirls? Just curious. I haven't made a gray soap in ages and I like the look of yours.
As for waiting to zap test; that's new to me. I'd be concerned that the exposure to air would naturally neutralize unsaponified lye. And that would still leave your soap unsafe to see because you don't know what's inside the bars.
Hopefully someone else comes along with more experience than this. I've been making soap for almost ten years but haven't made a lye heavy batch yet. (but sure did have one overheat and saw it split completely open!)

 

[ScentimentallyYours]

I have not worked with pine tar @Mike E, but looking at your soap and the swirls in it, I would guess that your ingredients were not thoroughly mixed. Do you fully blend all your oils prior to adding the lye solution? If so, do you think you may have been unable to fully blend the lye and oils before the mix started to seize? I am very curious to see what result you get with a zap test. I would test the wet spots separately from the solid gray areas and see if you get the same result.

BTW, you made me do the math. I don’t know what size bars you make, but I guesstimated 4 ounces. That means you made at minimum 20 pounds of soap. What container did you mix it in? Are you using a drill or something else to blend your batches? What kind of mold are you using? Show us more pictures, please! We like to look.

Edit to add: What are the white spots caused by???

 

[user 58006]

I have not worked with pine tar @Mike E, but looking at your soap and the swirls in it, I would guess that your ingredients were not thoroughly mixed. Do you fully blend all your oils prior to adding the lye solution? If so, do you think you may have been unable to fully blend the lye and oils before the mix started to seize? I am very curious to see what result you get with a zap test. I would test the wet spots separately from the solid gray areas and see if you get the same result.

BTW, you made me do the math. I don’t know what size bars you make, but I guesstimated 4 ounces. That means you made at minimum 20 pounds of soap. What container did you mix it in? Are you using a drill or something else to blend your batches? What kind of mold are you using? Show us more pictures, please! We like to look.

Edit to add: What are the white spots caused by???

I use custom craft molds

the white spots are ground oats .

I did a zap test and came back a 9 - 9.5 .

The swirl looking design would be a glycerin river im guessing .

Pine tar soap you have to whisk . Cant use a blend or it will set up before it get into the mold.

Are the darker areas swirls? Just curious. I haven't made a gray soap in ages and I like the look of yours.
As for waiting to zap test; that's new to me. I'd be concerned that the exposure to air would naturally neutralize unsaponified lye. And that would still leave your soap unsafe to see because you don't know what's inside the bars.
Hopefully someone else comes along with more experience than this. I've been making soap for almost ten years but haven't made a lye heavy batch yet. (but sure did have one overheat and saw it split completely open!)

I think the dark areas are glycerin River .

My zap came back a 9.5 10 .

Hi Mike. First thing to do when you see that is to test for unsaponified lye with the zap test. In case you don't know how: Zap test | Soapy Stuff (any sign of lye burns or irritation like stinging, burning, redness, pain?) If so, it will need to be thrown out or rebatched.
If that isn't it, it's helpful if you post your recipe and process. Pine Tar moves fast, so I'm wondering how well you were able to mix it...?

Also, did it overheat? i.e. super hot, gel, crack open?

It came back a 9.5 / 10.

Sounds like you've made Pine Tar ahaha. Do you have any trick with these big batches other then temp and whisking .

I have not worked with pine tar @Mike E, but looking at your soap and the swirls in it, I would guess that your ingredients were not thoroughly mixed. Do you fully blend all your oils prior to adding the lye solution? If so, do you think you may have been unable to fully blend the lye and oils before the mix started to seize? I am very curious to see what result you get with a zap test. I would test the wet spots separately from the solid gray areas and see if you get the same result.

BTW, you made me do the math. I don’t know what size bars you make, but I guesstimated 4 ounces. That means you made at minimum 20 pounds of soap. What container did you mix it in? Are you using a drill or something else to blend your batches? What kind of mold are you using? Show us more pictures, please! We like to look.

Edit to add: What are the white spots caused by???

I’m guessing I didn’t mix good enough . My zap came back 9.5 / 10 I have a picture on here I posted of it. I whisk my pine tar . I have never been able to get away with a blender before . I did test the spot you ask me too. When I blend all my other soaps I have a vevor commercial size blender

I have not worked with pine tar @Mike E, but looking at your soap and the swirls in it, I would guess that your ingredients were not thoroughly mixed. Do you fully blend all your oils prior to adding the lye solution? If so, do you think you may have been unable to fully blend the lye and oils before the mix started to seize? I am very curious to see what result you get with a zap test. I would test the wet spots separately from the solid gray areas and see if you get the same result.

BTW, you made me do the math. I don’t know what size bars you make, but I guesstimated 4 ounces. That means you made at minimum 20 pounds of soap. What container did you mix it in? Are you using a drill or something else to blend your batches? What kind of mold are you using? Show us more pictures, please! We like to look.

Edit to add: What are the white spots caused by???

I use custom craft loaf mold . Then I use a 30 quart stainless steal bowl. With pine tar I do not blend . That could be my problem . It’s a fast moving soap formula . So I’m looking for a way to get these big batches perfect mixed properly if anyone knows

I have not worked with pine tar @Mike E, but looking at your soap and the swirls in it, I would guess that your ingredients were not thoroughly mixed. Do you fully blend all your oils prior to adding the lye solution? If so, do you think you may have been unable to fully blend the lye and oils before the mix started to seize? I am very curious to see what result you get with a zap test. I would test the wet spots separately from the solid gray areas and see if you get the same result.

BTW, you made me do the math. I don’t know what size bars you make, but I guesstimated 4 ounces. That means you made at minimum 20 pounds of soap. What container did you mix it in? Are you using a drill or something else to blend your batches? What kind of mold are you using? Show us more pictures, please! We like to look.

Edit to add: What are the white spots caused by???

The white spots are oats . This was the photos after I got it in the mold

Im curious ,

Does anyone think this could happen unmolding and cutting to soon?

I was in a rush to use the mold again . Im wondering if the soap was still going through saponification ?

I used the soap on my hands . Didn't feel anything wrong with it .

 

[KiwiMoose]

A zap test is not the same as a pH test Mike. You need to ascertain if the soap is lye heavy or has lye pockets.

 

[AliOop]

I’ll also say that making large batches of pine tar soap will always be a challenge due to the fast tracing.

Have you already perfected your technique for making small batches of pine tar soap? If not, start there and consider whether this one recipe may never lend itself to large batches.

You might also try the techniques suggested in the pine tar soap YT video by Ellie’s Everyday.

 

[lenarenee]

KiwiMoose is correct - pH has nothing to do with whether or not there is unsaponified lye left in the soap. Unfortunately, it's a very popular myth all over the internet.

 

[user 58006]

I’ll also say that making large batches of pine tar soap will always be a challenge due to the fast tracing.

Have you already perfected your technique for making small batches of pine tar soap? If not, start there and consider whether this one recipe may never lend itself to large batches.

You might also try the techniques suggested in the pine tar soap YT video by Ellie’s Everyday.

I have perfected the small batches of 18 . Have made more times than I could remember . I will check that out . Thank you

 

[user 58006]

I’ll also say that making large batches of pine tar soap will always be a challenge due to the fast tracing.

Have you already perfected your technique for making small batches of pine tar soap? If not, start there and consider whether this one recipe may never lend itself to large batches.

You might also try the techniques suggested in the pine tar soap YT video by Ellie’s Everyday.

I have perfected the small batches of 18 . Have made more times then I could remember

A zap test is not the same as a pH test Mike. You need to ascertain if the soap is lye heavy or has lye pockets.

please explain proper way to test.

Thank you

 

[user 58006]

KiwiMoose is correct - pH has nothing to do with whether or not there is unsaponified lye left in the soap. Unfortunately, it's a very popular myth all over the internet.

What’s the best way to test . I used the soap felt fine. But best I know this . I appreciate the reply

 

[user 58006]

A zap test is not the same as a pH test Mike. You need to ascertain if the soap is lye heavy or has lye pockets.

It big that my soap is safe . I’m not worried about saving something that even has a chance of not being safe .

I’ve decided to do another big load of pine tar in the next couple of days . Going to do some more research .

But also I would like to learn more about the zap test .

 

[KiwiMoose]

Here you go: Zap test | Soapy Stuff.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

I’ve decided to do another big load of pine tar in the next couple of days . Going to do some more research .

PINE TAR SOAP - TIPS AND TECHINIQUE

 

[paradisi]

KiwiMoose is correct - pH has nothing to do with whether or not there is unsaponified lye left in the soap. Unfortunately, it's a very popular myth all over the internet.

Also, if there are pockets found when cutting, there may be pockets the cutter didn't find.

 

[user 58006]

Here you go: Zap test | Soapy Stuff.

Thank you so much for the info and your time