At what percent do you figure the water? And how do you know how much dilution to do? I have been putting off LS for sometime and now I have questions.
Simple Liquid Soap Recipe
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Dahila
Well-Known Member
Tutorials!!!!
Water + glycerin should be a total of 3 times the KOH weight for the usual way most of us make liquid soap.
Example: If the KOH weight is 90 grams, the combined total weight of water plus glycerin should be:
3 X 90 = 270 grams
Any combination of water + glycerin can be used as long as it equals 270 grams (for this example), but the usual method is to dissolve the KOH in an equal weight of water. For the example, this would be 90 grams KOH and 90 grams of water.
Then I would stir in the remainder of the total "water" as glycerin. Since water used to dilute the KOH is 90 grams in my example, glycerin would be the rest of the 270 grams, or:
270 - 90 = 180 grams of glycerin.
***
As far as how much dilution of the paste -- you have to find that out by trial and error. Irish Lass and Susie offer guidelines for their recipes (see post 12 above for Susie's recommended dilution for her recipe), but even with their recommendations, it's wise to sneak up on the dilution -- start with a little less water than you think and work from there.
The reason why is because every soap maker's soap is a little different, so what works well for one soap maker might not work for another. Especially if you make a new recipe, you cannot assume the dilution you've used in the past for another recipe will work for the new recipe. There are reasons why a dilution for one soap won't work well for another recipe, but I'm going to take the KISS (keep it simple, soaper) approach, and leave things at this -- we can talk about the details another time.
When in doubt, I follow Susie's suggestion of measuring out 1 part paste and 0.5 part distilled water and diluting the paste in that water. If that's not enough water, then slowly add more water until the dilution seems right. This might be just an ounce (30 grams) at a time ... that's what I mean by sneaking up on the dilution. Keep good notes and next time you make the same recipe, you can dilute with more confidence.
Example: If the KOH weight is 90 grams, the combined total weight of water plus glycerin should be:
3 X 90 = 270 grams
Any combination of water + glycerin can be used as long as it equals 270 grams (for this example), but the usual method is to dissolve the KOH in an equal weight of water. For the example, this would be 90 grams KOH and 90 grams of water.
Then I would stir in the remainder of the total "water" as glycerin. Since water used to dilute the KOH is 90 grams in my example, glycerin would be the rest of the 270 grams, or:
270 - 90 = 180 grams of glycerin.
***
As far as how much dilution of the paste -- you have to find that out by trial and error. Irish Lass and Susie offer guidelines for their recipes (see post 12 above for Susie's recommended dilution for her recipe), but even with their recommendations, it's wise to sneak up on the dilution -- start with a little less water than you think and work from there.
The reason why is because every soap maker's soap is a little different, so what works well for one soap maker might not work for another. Especially if you make a new recipe, you cannot assume the dilution you've used in the past for another recipe will work for the new recipe. There are reasons why a dilution for one soap won't work well for another recipe, but I'm going to take the KISS (keep it simple, soaper) approach, and leave things at this -- we can talk about the details another time.
When in doubt, I follow Susie's suggestion of measuring out 1 part paste and 0.5 part distilled water and diluting the paste in that water. If that's not enough water, then slowly add more water until the dilution seems right. This might be just an ounce (30 grams) at a time ... that's what I mean by sneaking up on the dilution. Keep good notes and next time you make the same recipe, you can dilute with more confidence.
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This particular recipe uses 1 part paste to 0.75 parts dilution water. Exactly. When I pour the soap into the jug, it forms an immediate skin on whatever is left in the pot. It could not take one drop less water, but you do not need one drop more. I usually scoop that skin off and poke it into the jug. It will re-dilute itself.
I also learned (and remembered today as I was making more soap) that you can use less dilution water if you will stickblend those last 5 or 6 lumps into the dilution water. It works, and very well at that, to decrease the dilution water.
I also learned (and remembered today as I was making more soap) that you can use less dilution water if you will stickblend those last 5 or 6 lumps into the dilution water. It works, and very well at that, to decrease the dilution water.
Totally dope DeeAnna; wow! This is so gooood! Between Susie and your post, I am in heaven. I will be babysitting 5 little dogs tonite and am taking my labtop to reread again and again. Thank You.
You guys are awesome!
:clap:
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Hi Lisa- I'm not familiar with Thompson's 'no paste' book, so I have no opinion either way as far as that goes, but I am familiar with Failor's book. I bought it about 6 years ago and read it, but after reading it, I must confess that it all seemed so overwhelmingly involved to me that for a very long time it had the unfortunate effect of putting me off of even thinking about attempting to try my hand at it.
To answer your question about the ease of the glycerin method in comparison to other above methods ......it's impossible for me to offer any personal comparisons of my own, but for what its worth, when I first heard about the glycerin method on another forum a few years ago, I chanced to stumble upon a loooong thread over there where I read post after post written by numerous folk that had been doing LS the Failor way for some time, but had just recently tried doing it the glycerin way, and they were profusely praising the glycerin method for its super-quickness and ease of execution in comparison to the Failor method, as well as praising the fact that they didn't have to go through the lye excess/neutralization rigmarole so inherent in her method.
Another benefit they liked with the glycerin method was being able to make a super-thick liquid soap without having to resort to using thickeners, especially with recipes containing a lot of coconut oil (which typically makes for rather thin liquid soap via the Failor method). Anyway, seeing all those posts at the time rekindled my hope and gave me the courage I needed to step out and finally try my hand at making liquid soap.
The first recipe I tried was 3bees~1flower's 65% OO GLS recipe- the recipe that Spice referenced in post #21 above- and I was amazed at how uncomplicated (and quick) it was to make it..... and how lovely the finished soap came out.
As Topofmurrayhill said- everyone has their own way of doing things- even amongst those of us who exclusively use the glycerin method, i.e., there are actually a couple of different ways in which the glycerin method can be approached/executed, ways which can make things either more or less easier for us depending on how we like to work.....
For example, up until recently I have mostly employed the whisk method whereby I whisk my batter (off heat) to the 'flying bubble' stage, then cover it and walk away for about 4 to 6 hours (still leaving it off the heat- no cooking whatsoever), during which time it has turned into paste on its own. Then there are the folks such as 3bees~1flower who mostly use a stick-blender instead of a whisk and are able to reach the paste stage in 3 minutes or less from the time they poured the lye solution into their oils. Depending on which way you decide to go, you can either have finished liquid soap that's ready to be packaged up in as little as 1 to 2 hours from the start, or by the end of the day at the most. It's all up to you and how you like to approach things.
You can also choose to dissolve your KOH either of 2 different ways with the glycerin method, i.e., the 'Paramacist's Method' mentioned earlier in this thread (which is more involved and carries a higher risk of potential danger), or else dissolving the KOH in an equal amount of water before adding the usual/full recipe amount of glycerin to it before adding it to the oils. Both ways work and both ways give you the same quality of liquid soap in the end, but both ways proceed differently time-wise and also otherwise (such as the in how the consistency of the paste turns out and also in how much dilution water is needed).
You should give it a try and see how you like it!
IrishLass
Yep, you should try it.
how do you figure the 46 oz of water for dilution? Sorry I did this wrong, Susie I was trying to see how much water I would need to dilute and you used 46 0z of water. Is that what you normal start with?
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I use that much because I have made it before, and I know from experience that IL's 1:0.75 ratio is right on the mark. I trusted her to start with, though.
I was struggling with this amount of water, because I didnt understand the "why x amount". I needed to know where this number came from. The recipe that I have uses that much or more depending on the oils, I havent made it yet because I still have questions. The amount of water, and I got the idea from your post, is that the recipe I have uses 24 oz of hemp oil and 80 oz of water to dilute the paste. If my math is right that would be 1:.30.
I havent decided if I want to GLS yet. I need to get my questions out and then begin. Thanks for you help. I follow you.
If you are not using a recipe from a known/trusted source, then the best advice I can give you is to sneak up on the dilution. I would start with no more than one-third of the paste weight in water. Then I would use no more than one-half of that amount for the next amount. After that, I would add no more than one-eighth of the starting paste weight at the time. Then when you have a few lumps left, try stickblending them in. And RECORD how much water it took to dilute that recipe, as that is about the amount you will need from then on. Just be sure to record it in a ratio format, as you may later vary how much paste you work with.
Why those numbers? Because you have to start somewhere, and while you can add more water, removing it requires time, heat, and attention that I do not care to give to something if I can avoid it.
Why those numbers? Because you have to start somewhere, and while you can add more water, removing it requires time, heat, and attention that I do not care to give to something if I can avoid it.
ok, I am done with questions, I believe I have asked the same question in more ways then one, I will be adding water in they way you have suggested. Ok, now I see, boy that took alot. Thanks.
It is far better to ask the questions beforehand, than to ask, "What went wrong?" on the back end.
But now you owe us pics. Just sayin'.
But now you owe us pics. Just sayin'.
It is far better to ask the questions beforehand, than to ask, "What went wrong?" on the back end.
But now you owe us pics. Just sayin'.
You bet, I was going to get my ducks in a row today, but it will be tomorrow. I am going to do two process, first I have a recipe that its the long way. Then I will do the GLS. The long way I mean I will be pouring and stiring till the next day process. Not sure if that is a good idea, either way, when done I will post again.
Actually, the longest way is using the Failor method of having a lye excess, cooking until you get full paste, then neutralizing with borax mixed with boiling water, and sequestering for 1-2 weeks, possibly using either alcohol or sugar to clarify. All of which is completely unnecessary.
Which is why I wonder why people insist on doing things the hard way.
Which is why I wonder why people insist on doing things the hard way.
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Wow, this is going to be quite an experiment. I just wrote my recipe.
I have the soap paste made, it wasnt as bad as I thought it would be. Does glycerin heat up? I am wondering because I am going to switch gears and will do the GLS after this one.
Are you making it with glycerin to mix with the KOH, or water to mix with the KOH? I ask because mixing the KOH with water is much easier. And no, it does not heat up on its own, you must add heat to mix directly with KOH. And it is not the safest option, nor does it affect the outcome.
Susie, thank you for your recipe! I want to try it and add some EO for fragrance. When and how can I add it? I need to use emulsifier for the EO?
Dahila
Well-Known Member
Irishlass so how do you ajust the amount of water for dillution and amount of EDTA. If you do not mind sending pm, but maybe OP would benefit from the answer. This time I am following Susie KOH in water then glycerin. Thanks
KOH in water then glycerin. Thanks
