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Peggi

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I always find it awkward to ask questions that I'm sure will sound silly...but I haven't been able to find the answer by quietly reading...so here goes.

I've made on batch of cp soap. I used olive, coconut, and castor oils. The result was a soft yellow colored soap. It's a nice color...but is it possible to obtain a creamy white soap by changing the type of oil used?

Thanks for not laughing out loud :p

P
 
Hi! The only way to learn is to ask questions!!! This is a great place to do just that, and no need to feel silly!

It would help if you posted your recipe to give us a better idea as to how to help you.

Congratulations on your first batch! You are well on your way to becoming completely addicted. You will love it here! Welcome!
 
Remember that question...
"How do you get to Carnegie Hall?"

PRACTICE! :lol:
(Sorry... I was only laughing out loud at my own stupid joke... not the question which is not at all silly)


I don't know as much about this as I'd like but I believe generally, soaps will be whiter when you use lighter/whiter oils to begin with. I use Palm, Coconut and Babassu in many recipes. Also the lighter (and cheaper) olive oil as well.

Soaps will also be whiter if you prevent gel by refrigerating. If you add colorants they will be more pastel than if you insulate and gel.

Finally you can add titanium dioxide... but use sparingly as too much can make soap chalky.
 
I used extra virgin olive oil (easy to purchase locally) which is a strong yellow/green color. It makes sense to me that the soap should turn out to be a shade of the same color.

So using a lower grade olive oil (which is a pale shade) or a different recipe will change the end result. It's no so much that I want WHITE soap as I'd like less color, period. Seems it would work better if I wanted to add color later on...right?


Learning something new is always a challenge. I read through several books before starting this project and I knew I'd run up against the unknown. I hate to ask for answers that are "right there" if I'd just bothered to look or think it through.

One more question. Guess I need pH strips...I've looked all over town but can't find any. I know I can order them from the internet...but just wondered if anyone had a good idea of where to look locally.

Thanks again,
P
 
Don't hesitate to ask... that's how we all learn.
Though you can find many answers using the search function on this and other forums. Many questions are asked again and again. But still don't let that stop you from asking for clarification.

As for PH test strips... not sure about locally. There is not much I can find locally. I got mine from MMS with one of my FO orders. Some will say you don't need them. Some don't test at all and some use the zap test. I prefer to test mine with test strips, especially before anyone else uses them... but it's not mandatory. There is an article that talks about how different types of strips are less accurate than others. But I think it can't hurt for the tiny amount of money and time it requires.
 
Peggi,

I am pretty new to the addiction as well and wonder if we are using the same recipe - Alicia Gosso's Basic cold process soap 1# recipe? If not, we have been a least using the same oils.

I can tell you that using the low grade of olive oil does give you a "vanilla fudge-like" color. I wanted to make a confetti soap so added 1/4 tsp. Td to my next batch which was a 2#er and it did brighten it up. Didn't dare add too much because of the chalky factor just mentioned.

I don't think that you need to worry about asking alot of questions- people on this forum are really supportive! :)

Jude
 
Extra virgin olive will give you yellow (and softer) soap, especially if you use it in a high percentage of your oils.

Try regular olive oil -- it turns white in CP.
 
light olive oil, canola oil, soybean and kukui oils gave me a really creamy white color.
 
Welcome to the forum Peggi! :)

I've found that formulating my batches around oils such as Coconut oil, PKO, Palm oil, Babassu Oil, Tallow, Lard, Grade A Olive Oil, among others, helps to lighten up the color of my soaps.

Also, using titanium dioxide ( 1 tsp. ppo at the most) will help get your soap to be really white.

Re: pH strips: At the risk of stirring up a bees nest 8) - truly, the strips are not necessary and they are known to be highly unreliable. We've had a lot of discussions about the pH strips on another board I'm a member of, and the consensus of the veteran soapers who have tested their soap in the lab say the strips are pretty much useless when testing bar soaps, and that the only accurate way to measure the pH in bar soaps is to invest in a good pH meter.

Some companies, such as LotionCrafters, sell pH strips that they claim are more suited to test CP soaps, but I have not used them and do not know anyone that has tested them out yet. If you happen to buy the strips and your soap tests out at anything less than 9, you'll know that the strips are not very accurate. Properly made and cured lye soaps are normally alkaline (it's the nature of the beast), and when they are tested with an accurately calibrated pH meter they will always test out between 9 to 10.5 or 11, even if they are highly superfatted soaps. Anything higher than 11 on a meter means you've probably got a lye-heavy soap on your hands.

If you do not want to invest in a pH meter, the next best thing is to do the simple and inexpensive 'lye-zap' test. If you don't have a meter, this test is more accurate than pH strips in letting you know whether or not your soap is safe to use, and it's something I do with all my batches. You can do it either of these 2 ways:

1.) After your soap has cured for at least 4 days to a week*, stick the tip of your tongue to your soap to see if it 'zaps'or stings. If it is lye heavy, it will very unmistakably zap, or sting your tongue. It feels much like the sensation of sticking the tip of your tongue to a 9-volt battery. :)

2) After wetting a finger, take your week old soap* and work a little lather up with your wet finger. Touch the tip of your tongue to the wet lather on your finger. If it zaps you, your soap is lye-heavy.

* I personally do not recommend doing the zap test on freshly made and unmolded soap. Let your soap cure for about a week first. I say this because I've had 5 to 7 day old ungelled soap zap me before, but then just a day or so later the 'zap' was completely gone and remained gone. It just needed a little longer to saponify more fully since it didn't go through the gel stage.

HTH!
IrishLass :)
 
Hi Peggi! I totally agree with everything IrishLass said - excellently put and very informed. She is a very experienced soaper with a lot of practical experience.

Welcome to the addiction and enjoy your soaping!

BTW - we love pics!!!

Tanya :)
 
Hi Peggi and welcome!

This forum is a wonderful place to ask any question....as you have just witnessed!!

And as everyone else has answered, yes, the lighter the oils, the lighter your soap will be.
 
Peggi said:
I always find it awkward to ask questions that I'm sure will sound silly...but I haven't been able to find the answer by quietly reading...so here goes.

I've made on batch of cp soap. I used olive, coconut, and castor oils. The result was a soft yellow colored soap. It's a nice color...but is it possible to obtain a creamy white soap by changing the type of oil used?

Thanks for not laughing out loud :p

P

the only soap i ever made that was almost white was olive and palm, mostly variations of tan. Some fragrance oils will discolor your soap, any thing with vanilla in it.
 
Thanks IrishLass for that detailed explanation of PH testing. No bees nest here. :)

I've read a good bit about it but it's certainly something I need to learn more about. I guess my feeling has been that even un-exact PH Test strips are better than no testing at all. I figure they will at least show you if you have lye heavy soap which is the most important thing to know. I also do the zap test and try a sample shower or two myself before I let anyone else use my soaps. I have somewhat sensitive skin so if it doesn't break me out, most others will be safe. So I guess I am my own PH meter! :D
 
Thank you for the "good" info. I have 4 or 5 soap making books that I've read. Although they are full of great tips...sometimes I don't find the answer to that one question that haunts me. :?

For some reason I seem to have trouble finding what I need when I attempt to search the forums. It must be something I'm doing...or not doing :lol:

Any recommendations on a pH tester if I decide to go that way?

I really appreciate the positive feed back....thanks again!

P
 

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