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bello1981

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New to soap making and about to give it a go with a batch listed in my soap calc. Would greatly appreciate some thoughts and/or suggestions on how to improve this recipe. My concern here is that it may be too soft, however I can't seem to get around it with the ingredients listed, as I'm trying to keep it cost effective and simple for the first batches. I've also set the lye concentration to 30%. Any tips on how to make this a harder bar without increasing the cleansing factor? Would you guys recommend increasing the lye concentration to 33% for shortened cure time? Thanks!
 

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New to soap making and about to give it a go with a batch listed in my soap calc. Would greatly appreciate some thoughts and/or suggestions on how to improve this recipe. My concern here is that it may be too soft, however I can't seem to get around it with the ingredients listed, as I'm trying to keep it cost effective and simple for the first batches. I've also set the lye concentration to 30%. Any tips on how to make this a harder bar without increasing the cleansing factor? Would you guys recommend increasing the lye concentration to 33% for shortened cure time? Thanks!
Hi there, welcome to the forum!

I assume this is for cold process, right?

Yes, you can definitely increase the lye concentration a little bit - you can go for 33% for your first try, once you get more comfortable working with lye you can go for 35%, even 40 ‐ as long as you don't go for fancy swirls and designs and you don't need the batter to be watery for longer. You'll eventually figure out what you like and how to do it, but it's good that you want to keep it relatively simple for now. Just to mention - less water doesn't affect the hardness of the final, fully cured bar, but it helps it get to that final hardness a little quicker. You will still need at least 4 weeks before the soap is good to use.

Superfat can also affect hardness, and you should keep in mind it's not mentioned with the results at the end of the page in soap calc. You can play around with the SF % and everything below (hardness, conditioning, etc.) will stay the same in the calculations - however, that's not true. More SF makes a softer bar, less SF makes a harder one. 5% is a great starting point, just as your recipe shows. Once you are more familiar with soap making and you feel more comfortable adjusting all the variables in your recipes, you can play around with that as well - you may want to increase it to get a more gentle bar or you can decrease it to get a harder one, with less chance for DOS. But for your first time, 5% is great!

I can see there's no palm oil in your recipe, and it's (at least where I'm at) the cheapest fat you can buy. If you want to increase the hardness of your soap, I would suggest getting palm oil, or lard, or tallow (in case you don't avoid those oils intentionally, which I would understand). Those 3 mentioned make a great bar combined with coconut and olive. So what I would suggest to change is this:

1. Drop the castor to 5% (many people say they feel when it's high and they don't like it - I haven't personally noticed anything wrong with a 10% castor bar but I don't usually use much liquid fats). Also, that much castor will accelerate trace.

2. Drop the avocado to 10% (where I'm from, it's expensive and I wouldn't use much of it in a CP recipe). Of course, it may not be the case for you - but you will still benefit from clearing some space for solid fats.

3. Drop the olive to 23%. I don't know if this one is expensive where you are (I use pomace which is the cheapest), but either way, we'll clear more way for solid oils.

Now, we cleared 25% liquid fats - add 25% palm oil instead (or lard/tallow) and you have a balanced recipe with enough solid fats which is still not hard to work with and is not a bad first recipe. Of course, if you don't mind using those fats and you can find them near you at an affordable price.

Or, you can always make it even more simple by making it with 3 oils only: 33% palm, 33% coconut and 34% olive. It's a recipe that stood the test of time as a great first timer - it was the first soap I made and it was a pretty good soap! Yes, for some people 33% coconut will be too cleansing, but I never found any problem with high coconut soap - just experiment, that's the beauty of it! You may like the result.

Of course, you can also keep the recipe as it is, and it will be a good soap as well - as long as you follow the procedure when making it. With lots of liquid oils you will have plenty of time to work on it and observe the process. Slow trace is good for your first time (10% castor may be a problem though, consider dropping it to 5 in any case), because there's smaller chance of something surprising you and a state of panic coming in - we want to avoid that!

So don't worry, everything will be fine, no matter what you choose to make. I like the fact that you didn't find some recipe online and tried to replicate it - instead, you created your own recipe from scratch and you are taking your time learning what all those numbers mean, I respect that! Just so you know - some people make soap for years and still don't know what the qualities on soap calc mean exactly (which is not a bad thing per se) - but it's always inspiring to see someone new who takes it so seriously and spends a lot of time learning theory instead of jumping straight to practice.

Good luck and let us know how your first adventure in the soaping world turns out!
 
New to soap making and about to give it a go with a batch listed in my soap calc. Would greatly appreciate some thoughts and/or suggestions on how to improve this recipe. My concern here is that it may be too soft, however I can't seem to get around it with the ingredients listed, as I'm trying to keep it cost effective and simple for the first batches. I've also set the lye concentration to 30%. Any tips on how to make this a harder bar without increasing the cleansing factor? Would you guys recommend increasing the lye concentration to 33% for shortened cure time? Thanks!
I've included soy wax (6% is what I use but can go up to 50%) or beeswax (2% is my go to) in my soaps and have found that they help increase hardness. They do require soaping at a higher temp though which has its own drawbacks such as reaching trace faster.
Sodium lactate can also help.
 
The only time I made soap with 10% castor oil, my friends and family complained it was too soft and turned into playdough in the shower. I'm not 100% sure that castor oil was the culprit since I never used that much again, but I never had this problem since I kept it at max 5%.
I also soap with a majority of liquid oils since butters are expensive and I like to keep coconut oil low.
I also think that if you could afford to up shea butter even a tiny bit (getting it to 15%) you would notice the difference in hardnes.
And keep in mind that the higher the lisquid oils ine the recipe, the longer the cure. At least that's what I notice in my soaps. If you find your soaps too soft at the 4 weeks mark, try again at 6 ou 7 weeks.

The advices given by @Ekuzo and @bookworm42 also sound good to me. I use 3% wax in my high honey soap that tends to be soft.


Edit : I reread your post and realised you haven't made it yet. You should keep in mind that soapcalc parameters are not a exact science. A 100% olive oil recipe will be categorised as too soft, but in real life they will get very hard, given the proper cure time (which is way longer than 4 weeks).
 
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I use 3% wax in my high honey soap that tends to be soft.
What honey percentage gives you soft soap - is it something like 4-5% of oil weight, or more? And have you noticed any difference if you used water discount to compensate for the honey used?
 
What honey percentage gives you soft soap - is it something like 4-5% of oil weight, or more? And have you noticed any difference if you used water discount to compensate for the honey used?
More like 8%. When I just started soaping I was all about adding lots and lots of honey to my soaps. Even when I was also using GM as a full water replacement. I don't think it was very wise as a beginner, but I'm lucky enough to never have experienced a volcano nor scorching. Probably because I read a lot about honey in soap, mostly from here 😃.
I also soap high in olive oil (and liquid oils in general), so the beeswax helps with that too.

I just checked the recipe of my last batch, and it was :
72g honey for 900g oils.
30% lye concentration
2% beeswax

Less water would probably help, you're right. But I like the idea of beeswax in a honey soap. Match well with the theme. And I feel like less water + beeswax would make a batter difficult to work with.

My last batch was quite a while ago, I should make a new one, since I liked all the ones I made so far;
 
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More like 8%. When I just started soaping I was all about adding lots and lots of honey to my soaps. Even when I was also using GM as a full water replacement. I don't think it was very wise as a beginner, but I'm lucky enough to never have experienced a volcano nor scorching. Probably because I read a lot about honey in soap, mostly from here 😃.
I also soap high in olive oil (and liquid oils in general), so the beeswax helps with that too.

I just checked the recipe of my last batch, and it was :
72g honey for 900g oils.
30% lye concentration
2% beeswax

Less water would probably help, you're right. But I like the idea of beeswax in a honey soap. Match well with the theme. And I feel like less water + beeswax would make a batter difficult to work with.

My last batch was quite a while ago, I should make a new one, since I liked all the ones I made so far;
Wow, that's a lot of honey! I usually don't go higher than 1-2%. I also make soap with both honey and beeswax (again, the beeswax doesn't go higher that 1-2%) at 40% lye concentration. But I add citric acid which slows down trace and I make simple one-colored soap, no fancy swirls or designs.
 
Wow, that's a lot of honey! I usually don't go higher than 1-2%. I also make soap with both honey and beeswax (again, the beeswax doesn't go higher that 1-2%) at 40% lye concentration. But I add citric acid which slows down trace and I make simple one-colored soap, no fancy swirls or designs.
Does citric acid slows down trace ? I didn't know ! I have been using it for only 5 or 6 batches now. I didn't pay attention to that.
 
For me, it does - ymmv. I use high % of hard fats and sometimes soap at high temperatures (70 C) with high lye concentration, also heating stuff like milk, beer and wax - and as long as I'm not using a naughty FO my batter is always workable and has a flat surface when poured. The info you can find on the subject is scarce, yet controversial. Some say it doesn't, some say it does - try it for yourself, you may be surprised with the result!

Keep in mind that the reason we soapers all over the world get different results with the similar recipes is that our ingredients differ a lot. So 5 different people may experience 5 different things and - yet again - that's the beauty of it!
 
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