Please advise on eo in CP soap

[Sweetface81]

I’ve been making cold process soap with essential oils (i don’t CPOP) but unfortunately the scent fades during the curing process. I create a kaolin clay slurry the night before with my EO’s but the scent just doesn’t have staying power. I’ve tried these oils so far (orange patchouli lime lemongrass and eucalyptus) and used a 4-5% usage rate based on each eo. The only scent that seems to linger is the eucalyptus and even still the scent is light. What am I doing wrong? I’ve even tried soaping at 85-95F and as high as 110-115F but no luck. Should I make a kaolin clay slurry with water first then add my eo to that? When would be the best time to add eo’s to the batter, after trace or add to oils before I add the lye. I’ve read that kaolin clay absorbs water, so I was thinking maybe my eo are being absorbed too much from the clay so maybe I need a buffer. Help please!
*Side note- I get my EO’s from Brambleberry , Nuture soap,New Directions and it’s getting costly even in small batches

 

[AliOop]

Sadly, many EOs do fade in CP soap, even at higher usage rates. Have you tried washing with the soaps? Many scents "re-bloom" when the soap gets wet.

I typically use 6-7% if it is safe to do so, and even then, the smell of the bars is fairly weak after curing. I do wrap them as soon as they are cured, which helps preserve the remaining scent quite well.

Also, for citrus scents, which notoriously fade quickly, you want to use "folded" EOs, those that are 5x or 10x. You might also look at lemon eucalyptus EO; the lemony scent tends to stick around longer than lemon EO mixed with eucalyptus EO. Litsea cubeba (may chang) smells lemony and has better staying power, too.

 

[Sweetface81]

Sadly, many EOs do fade in CP soap, even at higher usage rates. Have you tried washing with the soaps? Many scents "re-bloom" when the soap gets wet.

I typically use 6-7% if it is safe to do so, and even then, the smell of the bars is fairly weak after curing. I do wrap them as soon as they are cured, which helps preserve the remaining scent quite well.

Also, for citrus scents, which notoriously fade quickly, you want to use "folded" EOs, those that are 5x or 10x. You might also look at lemon eucalyptus EO; the lemony scent tends to stick around longer than lemon EO mixed with eucalyptus EO. Litsea cubeba (may chang) smells lemony and has better staying power, too.

Ugh Thank you for your response!! I should’ve noted that I do use 5x and 10x folded citrus eo’s I just ordered some litsea cubea in hopes it will help hold the scent from what I’ve been reading. I have washed with my soaps and the scent does become somewhat stronger but not by much.

What would you recommend for the best time to add the eo’s when making a batch?

 

[AliOop]

Honestly, the lye in CP soaps, plus the heat from saponification, is going to be a factor no matter what. It sounds like you are doing all you can do to maximize the results for CP. My EOs definitely stick better in my HP soaps, since I can add them after the lye has saponified the oils and isn't able to cause as much mischief.

 

[lsg]

Using a base note with top and middle note EOs will give longer lasting results. I use a cedarwood/sweet orange combination that lasts quite a while.

 

[Zany_in_CO]

Good advice from @AliOop and @lsg.

unfortunately the scent fades during the curing process.

I used EOs for 4 years before switching to FOs for that very reason. Also because fragrance sells!

I tried everything! Finally. one of the best things I found that you can do with the EOs you have on hand to make them "stick" is to pair them with a compatible FO to get the best of both worlds.

Check the top-selling FOs from the suppliers you use to use in blends. Or, you can try a few ready-made EO/FO blends from WSP. So far, the ones I've tried, and like, stick "forever". I wait until they go on sale.

 

[Vicki C]

Patchouli usually lasts a long time. Likewise lemongrass. I’ve never had any luck with orange or lime, they seem to disappear during saponification for me. I second @AliOop, Litsea cubeba is a great citrus EO that sticks. Peppermint also will stick. And lavender. Honestly, the only ones I have trouble with are citrus, including bergamot, and I use a rate of 4% of total oils, or less if safe usage rates require. I haven’t notice any difference using kaolin clay as an anchor for EOs, but others find it works for them. Some fragrances fade quickly too, I have used some that I could barely smell immediately after cutting.
I make and sell soap with both fragrances and essential oilss - my consistent top sellers of all soap are lemongrass & litsea (one bar, both EOs), lavender EO, and lavender, peppermint, rosemary EO blend.

 

[Nona'sFarm]

I’ve been making cold process soap with essential oils (i don’t CPOP) but unfortunately the scent fades during the curing process. I create a kaolin clay slurry the night before with my EO’s but the scent just doesn’t have staying power. I’ve tried these oils so far (orange patchouli lime lemongrass and eucalyptus) and used a 4-5% usage rate based on each eo. The only scent that seems to linger is the eucalyptus and even still the scent is light. What am I doing wrong? I’ve even tried soaping at 85-95F and as high as 110-115F but no luck. Should I make a kaolin clay slurry with water first then add my eo to that? When would be the best time to add eo’s to the batter, after trace or add to oils before I add the lye. I’ve read that kaolin clay absorbs water, so I was thinking maybe my eo are being absorbed too much from the clay so maybe I need a buffer. Help please!
*Side note- I get my EO’s from Brambleberry , Nuture soap,New Directions and it’s getting costly even in small batches

For what it's worth:
I have found the same and the above advice is very good.
I usually do blends of EOs at 5% and FOs at 3%. Whenever I use a citrus EO, around 10% of the blend will be Litsea cubeba. That seems to help. I usually let my soaps cure in the open for 4 weeks, then put them in a box with air holes. This helps slow down the release of the scent. I like to make small batches of 4 (otherwise I am quickly overrun with soap) and found that the salad containers from Panera Bread are the perfect size for 4 bars. I punch several holes in the top with an ice pick to let moisture flow out.
Oh, I add my EOs at light trace. I don't know if that makes any difference as that has always been my practice.

Best of luck. Let us know how it goes and what you find to work the best for you.

 

[Zing]

Ditto to all the above. Almost all of my essential oils are Bramble Berry. My base notes are frequently cedarwood and patchouli. And like the posters above, litsea really helps with my orange 10X and bergamot. I get my usage rates from eocalc and always use the maximum except for peppermint because tingles.

One tip. After curing, my bars go into shoe boxes punched with holes. I add a cotton ball dipped in the essential oil for that batch.

I've been pleasantly surprised that my scents stick around for months.

Also, it's not an essential oil but benzoin resinoid is heavenly -- like a vanilla-y/chocalate-y dessert scent.

I stir to emulsion, then add essential oils and colorants. Good luck!

 

[Sweetface81]

Ditto to all the above. Almost all of my essential oils are Bramble Berry. My base notes are frequently cedarwood and patchouli. And like the posters above, litsea really helps with my orange 10X and bergamot. I get my usage rates from eocalc and always use the maximum except for peppermint because tingles.

One tip. After curing, my bars go into shoe boxes punched with holes. I add a cotton ball dipped in the essential oil for that batch.

I've been pleasantly surprised that my scents stick around for months.

Also, it's not an essential oil but benzoin resinoid is heavenly -- like a vanilla-y/chocalate-y dessert scent.

I stir to emulsion, then add essential oils and colorants. Good luck!

Thank you so very much for the advice!

 

[Servant4Christ]

Wait, I thought the usage rate for essential oils was a max of 3% total. I've been trying to figure out how on earth to get 3% of any eo blend to stick! @Zing, how much of your spring clean blend do you use in a batch of soap? I love your cotton ball trick. I plan on trying it. I'm going to go read up on usage rate explanations over at eocalc now....
Update: I just played on eocalc and that is so.stinkin.COOL! I can use gentleman's lavender blend all the way up to 5% and eocalc will literally calculate how much of each EO to use in my batch no matter what size! How did I MISS this?! I am over the moon happy right now.

 

[AliOop]

Wait, I thought the usage rate for essential oils was a max of 3% total. I've been trying to figure out how on earth to get 3% of any eo blend to stick! @Zing, how much of your spring clean blend do you use in a batch of soap? I love your cotton ball trick. I plan on trying it. I'm going to go read up on usage rate explanations over at eocalc now....
Update: I just played on eocalc and that is so.stinkin.COOL! I can use gentleman's lavender blend all the way up to 5% and eocalc will literally calculate how much of each EO to use in my batch no matter what size! How did I MISS this?! I am over the moon happy right now.

So glad you figured it out! It is a really awesome tool

 

[Servant4Christ]

So glad you figured it out! It is a really awesome tool

I didn't get to play with eocalc for very long, but will eocalc allow me to type in a blend (such as @Zing's spring clean) that isn't already on the site and give me the correct usage rate for the blend? This could be a complete game changer for me.

 

[AliOop]

I didn't get to play with eocalc for very long, but will eocalc allow me to type in a blend (such as @Zing's spring clean) that isn't already on the site and give me the correct usage rate for the blend? This could be a complete game changer for me.

Oh absolutely. At the top of the main page, click on "Calculate Your Own Blend." Then fill in the percentage of each oil, the type of product, and the amount of product. Then click on Give Me Usage Rates, and voila!

 

[BritS]

I will say that I’ve had luck with both lemongrass and lavender at just 3%. I did an orange 5x salt soap only once that stuck at 3%, too.

 

[Zing]

Wait, I thought the usage rate for essential oils was a max of 3% total. I've been trying to figure out how on earth to get 3% of any eo blend to stick! @Zing, how much of your spring clean blend do you use in a batch of soap? I love your cotton ball trick. I plan on trying it. I'm going to go read up on usage rate explanations over at eocalc now....
Update: I just played on eocalc and that is so.stinkin.COOL! I can use gentleman's lavender blend all the way up to 5% and eocalc will literally calculate how much of each EO to use in my batch no matter what size! How did I MISS this?! I am over the moon happy right now.

Right??!! It's what I've been sayin'!

 

[Kamahido]

Ugh Thank you for your response!! I should’ve noted that I do use 5x and 10x folded citrus eo’s I just ordered some litsea cubea in hopes it will help hold the scent from what I’ve been reading. I have washed with my soaps and the scent does become somewhat stronger but not by much.

What would you recommend for the best time to add the eo’s when making a batch?

I've tried Litsea Cubea Essential Oil and found it to be a fader as well. Try Lemongrass Essential Oil instead. That stuck really well for me.

 

[Feelin' Soapy]

Not only does EOcalc do the calculating for you, all of their blends I've tried have been hits! It's a treasure of a tool!

 

[maryloucb]

Just chiming in to agree with the others—there are certain EOs that stick better than others, and EOcalc is awesome!

 

[NativeSoap]

Ditto to all the above. Almost all of my essential oils are Bramble Berry. My base notes are frequently cedarwood and patchouli. And like the posters above, litsea really helps with my orange 10X and bergamot. I get my usage rates from eocalc and always use the maximum except for peppermint because tingles.

One tip. After curing, my bars go into shoe boxes punched with holes. I add a cotton ball dipped in the essential oil for that batch.

I've been pleasantly surprised that my scents stick around for months.

Also, it's not an essential oil but benzoin resinoid is heavenly -- like a vanilla-y/chocalate-y dessert scent.

I stir to emulsion, then add essential oils and colorants. Good luck!

@Zing, do you use clays to help anchor your EO scents? In your experience, does it help at all? Thank you!