Olive Oil or Canola?
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kitkat_pro
Well-Known Member
IMO OO
MsBien
Well-Known Member
I haven't made soap with canola, but I can tell you that I love olive oil soap.
ChrissyB
Well-Known Member
I'd go with Olive oil also
But be aware that using a high percentage can make your soap take ages to trace, you may need to decrease your water.
Too much canola will cause DOS.
But be aware that using a high percentage can make your soap take ages to trace, you may need to decrease your water.
Too much canola will cause DOS.
kitkat_pro
Well-Known Member
It will take while to trace but pumace Olive oil traces faster than extra vergin. So if you want a faster trace out of the oilve oil use pumace.
The other thing with high olive oils soap is that they take longer to cure, and a castile takes 6-8weeks to cure.
If you do make a castile I would recomend at least 24 hours, preferable 48 hours to unmold, to prevent the soap from deforming as you are unmolding it. (such as a finger throught the soap, or frezer paper making a rounded bottom, lol, my bad) It is also easier to cut 3-6 days later depending on batch size olive oil used. To early and the cutting looks horrible (then it will require extra beveling later,lol), to late (three-four)weeks later, my bad again) and it's hard as a bleeping rock, but 2-3 weeks is a perfect time for beveling.
Sorry for the extra probably uneeded info, lol.
The other thing with high olive oils soap is that they take longer to cure, and a castile takes 6-8weeks to cure.
If you do make a castile I would recomend at least 24 hours, preferable 48 hours to unmold, to prevent the soap from deforming as you are unmolding it. (such as a finger throught the soap, or frezer paper making a rounded bottom, lol, my bad) It is also easier to cut 3-6 days later depending on batch size olive oil used. To early and the cutting looks horrible (then it will require extra beveling later,lol), to late (three-four)weeks later, my bad again) and it's hard as a bleeping rock, but 2-3 weeks is a perfect time for beveling.
Sorry for the extra probably uneeded info, lol.
SimplyE
Well-Known Member
I love OO, but I did an experiment last year and made single-oil bars. I LOVED the Canola oil bar, and it lasted forever as a hand soap...until it did DOS. Took about six months for it to do it, but it was a nice bar until then.
G
Guest
OO is my favorite but canola makes a great bar of soap .
Kitn
Kitn
Jeremy
Well-Known Member
I use both in my soaps. I will say I think the OO has an nicer feel on the skin but the canola makes a decent bar too. I don't make a lot of single oil bars so I onloy know how OO is alone.
ChrissyB
Well-Known Member
And that is the whole mission with soap making - to figure which oils have certain properties that work in synergy with other oils and their properties to deliver a bar of soap that is conditioning, hard, lathery, creamy.
There are so many combinations of oils that work well together, that's what makes it so much fun if you ask me.
There are so many combinations of oils that work well together, that's what makes it so much fun if you ask me.
Has anybody ever wondered WHY canola gets DOS? If you look at the FA profile, it's mostly oleic, so one would *think* that it would be more stable, but unfortunately it doesn't seem to be so. It does add a nice sheen to the soap, lathers nicely, but those darn DOS.....
When I recently got back into soaping from a long hiatis, I did not have the $$ to spend on olive, so I made some soapies with lard at around 50-60%, coconut 10%, and the rest in canola. All done hp....it will be interesting to see how they hold up.......
When I recently got back into soaping from a long hiatis, I did not have the $$ to spend on olive, so I made some soapies with lard at around 50-60%, coconut 10%, and the rest in canola. All done hp....it will be interesting to see how they hold up.......
I love OO and if I am making a castille (100% OO) then I increase my lye concentration by reducing my water. It cures much quicker into a hard bar. EVOO will give you a whiter bar as will Light OO. I use a mixture of EV & Pomice.
My understanding is that Canola is a genetically modified oil - I have used it but not often because it's not well received. Tallow & Lard make amazing soaps and are still welcomed by the general public, however vegans won't buy it. The farming community loves tallow soaps as it speaks to their roots.
Way more info than you asked for but I just thought I would sjare it with you anyway.
Cheers
Lindy
My understanding is that Canola is a genetically modified oil - I have used it but not often because it's not well received. Tallow & Lard make amazing soaps and are still welcomed by the general public, however vegans won't buy it. The farming community loves tallow soaps as it speaks to their roots.
Way more info than you asked for but I just thought I would sjare it with you anyway.
Cheers
Lindy
kitkat_pro
Well-Known Member
Just to add to what lindy said about canola.
Canola is one of two cultivars of rapeseed or Brassica campestris (Brassica napus L. and B. campestris L.).[1] Their seeds are used to produce edible oil that is fit for human consumption because it has lower levels of erucic acid than traditional rapeseed oils and to produce livestock feed because it has reduced levels of the toxin glucosinolates.[2] Canola was originally naturally bred from rapeseed in Canada by Keith Downey and Baldur R. Stefansson in the early 1970s,[3][4] but it has a very different nutritional profile in addition to much less erucic acid.[5] The name "canola" was derived from "Canadian oil, low acid" in 1978.[6][7] A product known as LEAR (for low erucic acid rapeseed) derived from cross-breeding of multiple lines of Brassica juncea is also referred to as canola oil and is considered safe for consumption.[8]
Thank you Wikapidia, lol.
Canola is one of two cultivars of rapeseed or Brassica campestris (Brassica napus L. and B. campestris L.).[1] Their seeds are used to produce edible oil that is fit for human consumption because it has lower levels of erucic acid than traditional rapeseed oils and to produce livestock feed because it has reduced levels of the toxin glucosinolates.[2] Canola was originally naturally bred from rapeseed in Canada by Keith Downey and Baldur R. Stefansson in the early 1970s,[3][4] but it has a very different nutritional profile in addition to much less erucic acid.[5] The name "canola" was derived from "Canadian oil, low acid" in 1978.[6][7] A product known as LEAR (for low erucic acid rapeseed) derived from cross-breeding of multiple lines of Brassica juncea is also referred to as canola oil and is considered safe for consumption.[8]
Thank you Wikapidia, lol.
donniej
Well-Known Member
I use used cooking oil, which is soy and/or canola. I have only seen DOS once, on one bar I set outside for a week (to see how fast it would dry). I have bars that have been sitting in my basement for ~6 months and they're DOS free.
I use no lye discount and no superfatting, I'm nto sure if this has anything to do with it.
I use no lye discount and no superfatting, I'm nto sure if this has anything to do with it.
