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dOttY

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Hi fellow Soap Lovers!

As mentioned before in my introduction post, I'm new to CP soapmaking. I've done lots of reading and researching, but I'm still not confident in making my 1st batch just yet.

As I read through the posts here on the forum, I'm confronted with an onslaught of questions.

I plan on using a wood log mould that my hubby will construct, and I'll line it with baking paper.

I want to 'non-gel' my 1st batch. Do I have to place my wooden mould in the fridge before I pour, and after my pour? I'm going to try 'non-gel' as I don't really like the idea of wrapping my baby up. When placing your finished project in the fridge, how long do you have to leave it in there? I've heard it can 'zap' for up to 3 days. Does the fridge process make the soap harder to cut up?

I apologize for all my 'dumb' questions. No doubt I'll have many more to follow. I'm just trying to clarify a few things, before I 'dive' in and soap.

Also, what is the best product for colouring? And, can someone point me in the direction of an easy recipe, something that will make say, 500g of soap. A test batch/trial recipe, so to speak?

Thanks in advance!
:)
 
I'm starting to suspect I should just bite the bullet and make a 'batch'!

Over procrastinating is giving me a headache, as is all the reading!
 
Dotty ... I gel, so can't advise you about non gelling.

My first recipe was a mix of olive oil and coconut oil. The second recipe I added ricebran oil to and now I also use a little castor oil. I worked out the quantities by using SoapCalc. You can put in the amount of oils you want to use in total ... and then play with the percentages of the oils. It's recommended not too use more than 30% coconut oil, not more than 20% rice bran oil and not more than 10% castor oil.

When I first used colours, I used paprika, tumeric and cocoa. After I was happier with what I was doing, I started buying soap colours from soap suppliers.

Remember there is no such thing as a dumb question!
 
Dotty, I made a aloe cream soap a couple of days ago. I put the soap in the freezer and still got a partial gel. You can see the darker area in the middle of the soap. The outside of the soap is a lovely cream color. Go figure.
 
Thanks for the answers Girls.

I think I'll make a few 'small' 500g batches first. Probably try a batch of exactly the same ingredients, and insulate one, and refrigerate the other, see what happens....

I hate how I'm impatient and that I expect perfection first up. I know I'm deluded, LoL, but hey, it's how I get by *winks*
 
More Questions...

I know the art of CP is all trial and error, but I'm interested in people's experiences and opinions.

So...

Does everyone 'discount'? I understand that by taking a lye discount, it leaves more oils (and their 'benefits') in the soap. What are the indications to not take a discount?

How long to wait between layers? Does the bottom layer have to be sprayed with alcohol as with M&P soaps?

And, I read in a previous post about someone adding their FO to the oil and then adding it all with the lye. Is this a standard procedure?

Thanks in advance, I really appreciate everyone's insight! xo
 
Dotty - first I want to congratulate you on doing your homework before jumping in! Personally I would do a very simple batch for starters. Wait before trying layers and colors and scents and swirling. First learn the technique.
Regarding a simple recipe: try olive oil 50%, coconut oil 20%, palm oil 25%, castor oil 5%. Plug these percentages into SoapCalc and evaluate the results. I usually use a 5% superfat (lye discount) and would suggest full water for your first batches. You definitely want a superfat (lye discount) so you have lovely moisturizing properties in your soap! If not your soap will be harsh on the skin and drying.
I always gell and don't mind snuggling my soap in towels. After 24 hours it is like unwrapping a present!
Happy soaping!
 
Superfatting ... I mostly go with the default 5% that's in SoapCalc. Recently I've been experimenting again and have been superfatting by 7% in my soap and 20% in my soap bars.

I use full water for all new fragrances, so that I can check how they behave. If they're a well behaved fragrance and I make that soap again, I'll then discount the water. It's highly recommended not to discount your water until you've been making CP for a while.

I haven't done a lot of layered soaps, but I usually make sure the bottom layer is at a heavier trace when it's poured. Then do some more mixing on the next layer and make sure it's at a lighter trace. When pouring, hold the container close to the surface, so that there's less chance it will go into the first layer. Also pouring over the back of a spoon or spatular helps prevent the layers mixing. And so on. I don't spray with alcohol.

I don't add my FO's to my oil, but I've read of people on this forum who do it all the time, and other's who do it when using a FO that's known to be difficult. I don't understand the science behind why this helps to slow the trace and gives time to play with the soap before putting it in the mould. I find soaping at room temperature is helpful when I'm wanting to 'play' with my soap. Like adding colours and doing an ITP (in the pot) or spoon swirl.

Have fun ... and keep thorough notes about each batch, so you can refer back to what happened ... and how the soap cured etc.
 
I prefer not to gel, but sometimes the soap does its own thing anyway. My soaps go in the fridge or the freezer; up to overnight. Be aware that ungelled soap can zap, up to three days later because the saponification process has been slowed down.
 
Hey Dotti Lyn from the candlemaking board :D With non gelling I chill my mold a little in the fridge prior to pouring and then sit overnight as I usually always soap in the evenings and then pull out in the morning. I would suggest you play with it do some gelled and do some ungelled and some will decide on their own what they want to do :lol:
 
Thanks everyone! It's really nice to have such friendly mentors.

I am now wondering, if one does want the batch to gel, and I wrap my mould up in towels, when exactly is 'safe' to try and get peaks on the top of the loaf? I have read that you shouldn't PEEK.... So I'm lost in this regard.

I'm going to have a play today, and do a small batch. Now I'm sitting here procrastinating on whether I'll insulate or not. Argh! Why can't anything be text book easy???

Hi Lyn, look at what you've done to me!!!! You've created a monster and I haven't even poured a batch yet! You truly are an amazing soaper, I am in awe of all your creations! And totally adore using your soaps. I hope I can be half as clever as you are.... *bubbly hugs*!
 
Dotty I only do peaks on a couple of my soaps and they're ones I mix to a thicker trace. After pouring into the moulds, I sculpt the sides with a popsicle stick. Sometimes the soap isn't thick enough and I have to wait a short while and then sculpt. This rarely happens, as I sculpt fragrances that help the batter to thicken. Then I spray with some alcohol and put them in a warm oven (lowest setting - 50 C) for two hours to gel.
 
I generally gel,so my method when I have a top to protect is to set my mold on a heating pad and then find a box lid that fits over the top of the mold. Usually that is sufficient, but you could put some towels or a blanket over the box for extra insulation if you think you need it
 
welcome to the addiction! it will be. Ive neer used freezer paper, but I do use contact paper, or shelf liner, it works great and you can use it again and again.
 
Hi Dotty, welcome!

For your first batch, try something simple - maybe olive oil at 60% and palm and coconut at 20% each. Superfat/lye discount at 5-7%

Work with a fragrance or essential oil that has a reputation for being well behaved. Look on the soap scent review board for good reviews on fragrance oils.

I'd not try swirls or anything fancy for a first outing.

My test batches are 750 grams of oils. This is a good size - not too small so tiny measuring errors become problematic - not too large so you're wasting materials if it doesn't work out. It also fits nicely into those 8 inch long silicone loaf molds.

I gel my soaps as a general rule but if you don't gel, your fragrance generally has a better chance of coming through without morphing or fading. Gel is nothing to fear. And it's perfectly permissible and even helpful to peek to make sure your soap is not overheating. If you get partial gel, no big deal, it's an aesthetic issue primarily.

With gelled soap you can cut in 24 hours. Ungelled, I'd wait three days or more.

Good luck and enjoy! Sounds like you're doing your homework in advance. Post pictures of your first batch so we can praise you!
 
Ok so I've unmolded my first batch!
Ingredients:
EVOO, Sustainable Palm Oil, Coconut Oil, Shea Butter, and FO "Moonlight Pomegranate". 7.5% discount (stated by the recipe and lye calculator)

I'll endeavour to post pics now...
 
WOW! they look so fab, i have a BIG grin. all your research has paid off, great job. you should be super proud

i've made 6 batches now and LOVE it, the last being a pomegranate salt bar :). hope to soap some more this weekend.

anyway, well done and can't wait to see your next batch :)
 
Thanks Kylie. I admit, I'm super chuffed! And very eager and keen to make more! I can see and appreciate what all the fascination is about!

*Bubbly hugs to everyone!*
 
so cool huh
are you dreaming of a soaping room too? LOL

my youngest has been sick this week so i haven't soaped but i'm itching to so bad.

oh, have you seen the thread about a aussie christmas swap? don't think it's officially opened as yet but keep your eyes peeled. i'm dreaming of ideas
 

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