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IF you decide to replace the coconut oil make sure you run the new blend through soapcalc. The SAP values may change the amount of lye and you can get a look at the change in properties the batch will tend to have.

+1 to what Susie said about the vinegar. I only use it AFTER everything has been washed just to make sure I have stuff neutral.

Yikes! Thanks for this Steve! I totally meant to put that in my post and obviously left it out - could have ruined his soap!
 
Okay this is weird and confusing....I bought this bottle of Lavender essential oil from a craft store. The brand is "soap expressions". It is recommended to use .5oz per pound of soap. Which is what I am making. However....this whole entire bottle gets poured in? On the company website it said it could be used for up to 10lbs of soap. Pictures in the attachments. I need help. Haha

I visited Soap Expressions website; their focus is on candle making and melt and pour soap. It does take less essential oil to scent melt and pour soap than it does cold process, so that's probably why they claim it can scent up to 10 lbs of soap (although it would be mighty light!)

The label on the bottle does indicate you have essential oil, and not a blend of eo with synthetic fragrance. I would use it at the rate recommended to you.
 
Thank you Lena! It was a cheap bottle to be honest. But it just confused me for a second. Thank you!! :)
 
Please do NOT use vinegar on your skin to remove lye. It will cause an exothermic reaction that will give you "heat" burns as well as "lye" burns. Instead, rinse with lots of cold water from the faucet at the sink.

yes i read to not use vinegar after the fact, i meant to change the post. thank you susie.
 
The original recipe of Lard, coconut oil, castor oil, and olive oil....is that recipe non-comedogenic? (Won't clog pores)?
 
I'm not sure if that question applies to most soaps - when an oil saponifies it is no longer really an oil, rather a collection of salts of fatty acids. This can be a world apart from the original oil.

A prime example is coconut oil - lovely on the skin as an oil, but super drying as a soap.

When looking at which oils to use, you can't base it on the topical properties of the oil itself.
 
I mean I guess most homemade basic soaps ARENT because store bought soaps have all that extra garbage in them from different chemicals.
 
The original recipe of Lard, coconut oil, castor oil, and olive oil....is that recipe non-comedogenic? (Won't clog pores)?
IMO, the word "non-comedogenic" is not very useful. So many people who have problems with acne, etc, find relief using soap made from oils that are supposedly pour-clogging. Also, keep in mind that soap is not a leave-on product.
 
Thank you Lena! It was a cheap bottle to be honest. But it just confused me for a second. Thank you!! :)

So glad I could be of help!
The original recipe of Lard, coconut oil, castor oil, and olive oil....is that recipe non-comedogenic? (Won't clog pores)?

Are you concerned about acne? If so, I can tell you the experience of my 2 college aged boys, one of whom has wicked acne. They only use my high lard soap (they also contain mica and fragrance oil) and their skin has improved greatly - so much so that the dermatologist remarked on it.

Lard doesn't sound comedogenic in their case. Nor am I suggesting that lard is a cure. I suspect it's what's NOT in my soap that is helpful for their condition.
 
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IMO, the word "non-comedogenic" is not very useful. So many people who have problems with acne, etc, find relief using soap made from oils that are supposedly pour-clogging. Also, keep in mind that soap is not a leave-on product.

I can use coconut oil and shea butter on my skin without fear of pimples. If anything, using coconut oil, especially in the summer, helps me if I do break out so long as I keep it pure and don't mix olive oil in it.
 

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