Need Basic Soap Recipe
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jcandleattic
Well-Known Member
Determine your batch size, then try 33% of each oil (34% for Olive oil to get you to 100% oils) and then run it through a lye calculator to get your lye amounts. Determine the concentration of your lye solution and also put that into the calculator. Most common is a 30%-35% lye solution.
I am not willing to give you a complete recipe, not because I don't care to share one (that doesn't bother me), but because you really need to learn how to use a soap recipe calculator right from the first. That said, there are some decent recipes at millersoap.com that may suit you. Even if you use someone else's recipe, don't trust their numbers. You should always, always run a recipe through a soap recipe calculator so YOU know the numbers are going to make safe soap.
Many soap recipes fall in these ranges for the fats you want to use --
15-30% coconut oil
30-50% palm oil
the rest as olive oil
And JC's 33% recipe would be plenty fine too.
Decide the total amount of fats for your batch. For a first time, I suggest 16 oz or 500 grams, depending on the unit of measure you prefer.
Decide on the superfat percentage you want. I suggest 5% if you don't have a preference.
Decide on the lye concentration you want. Try 33% if you do not have a preference. edit: This is not "water as % of oils" just to be clear.
Go to soapee.com or soapcalc.net to calculate the numbers for the fats, the NaOH, and the water.
Many soap recipes fall in these ranges for the fats you want to use --
15-30% coconut oil
30-50% palm oil
the rest as olive oil
And JC's 33% recipe would be plenty fine too.
Decide the total amount of fats for your batch. For a first time, I suggest 16 oz or 500 grams, depending on the unit of measure you prefer.
Decide on the superfat percentage you want. I suggest 5% if you don't have a preference.
Decide on the lye concentration you want. Try 33% if you do not have a preference. edit: This is not "water as % of oils" just to be clear.
Go to soapee.com or soapcalc.net to calculate the numbers for the fats, the NaOH, and the water.
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jcandleattic
Well-Known Member
You said all that much better than I did.
SoapAddict415
Well-Known Member
Keep in mind that too much coconut oil can be drying. I'd try 25% or less for your CO.
Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
Before doing this, tho, you may want to go to the Beginner's Forum, find the Sticky "Learn to Soap Online", scroll down to Lovin' Soap Tutorials to learn more.
Assuming you have safety gear, all necessary equipment and a basic understanding of proper soaping techniques... calculate your lye and water amount:
To calculate your lye amount, go to http://soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp
It's pretty self-explanatory. Just follow the numbers and tick the options you want.
Choose "NaOH" (Sodium Hydroxide) for the lye to make hard bars.
Choose "Ounces" (or grams) -- your preference
Enter the size batch you want to make, i.e. "16 oz." or "500g" , for a trial batch
Leave the default amounts as is for the rest of the boxes, i.e., 38% water; 5% superfat; 0.5% fragrance. You will learn more options in due time, but these are good for Newbies.
Go to the list of oils and choose
Olive oil, pomace or Olive oil 50%
Palm oil 30%
Coconut oil 20%
Tick Calculate and then "View..." to see results
Take some time to look at the recommended values vs. your results. If your results fall within the recommended values then you're good to go.
When you have time, go back and play with the % of oils to see how it changes the results, i.e., 33.3% of each oil. Also note the amount/type of fatty acids in your formula. Pause over each one for info about what that particular fatty acid brings to the party. This is key information for creating future formulas.
Good luck and HAPPY SOAPING
Assuming you have safety gear, all necessary equipment and a basic understanding of proper soaping techniques... calculate your lye and water amount:
To calculate your lye amount, go to http://soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp
It's pretty self-explanatory. Just follow the numbers and tick the options you want.
Choose "NaOH" (Sodium Hydroxide) for the lye to make hard bars.
Choose "Ounces" (or grams) -- your preference
Enter the size batch you want to make, i.e. "16 oz." or "500g" , for a trial batch
Leave the default amounts as is for the rest of the boxes, i.e., 38% water; 5% superfat; 0.5% fragrance. You will learn more options in due time, but these are good for Newbies.
Go to the list of oils and choose
Olive oil, pomace or Olive oil 50%
Palm oil 30%
Coconut oil 20%
Tick Calculate and then "View..." to see results
Take some time to look at the recommended values vs. your results. If your results fall within the recommended values then you're good to go.
When you have time, go back and play with the % of oils to see how it changes the results, i.e., 33.3% of each oil. Also note the amount/type of fatty acids in your formula. Pause over each one for info about what that particular fatty acid brings to the party. This is key information for creating future formulas.
Good luck and HAPPY SOAPING
DianaMoon
Well-Known Member
Hi Guys -
I totally understand not giving newbs total step by step directions - we gotta learn how to use that soap calc, and I think I have.
But do you have any tips and tricks to make the basic recipe - oils we should avoid, and so on. I want to make a basic hard soap with a moderate amount of lather. I'm not even sure I'll add fragrance.
BTW, I've read conflicting stuff already. In Susan Miller Cavitch's book she recommends adding grapefruit extract to retard spoilage, and on the website "Sweet Cakes" (which ironically I learned about from Susan's book) it says:
"Do not use grapefruit seed extract (GSE) -- it is a trace accelerator and if your soap is made properly, there is no need to preserve it."
Also on Sweet Cakes:
"DO NOT use a hand blender (also known as a stick blender) at all once you've added fragrance to your soap mixture (although of course you may feel free to use it before this point)."
I've seen some YouTubers who do use the stick blender to add fragrance. What do you say? (I intend to use a paint mixer anyway.)
I totally understand not giving newbs total step by step directions - we gotta learn how to use that soap calc, and I think I have.
But do you have any tips and tricks to make the basic recipe - oils we should avoid, and so on. I want to make a basic hard soap with a moderate amount of lather. I'm not even sure I'll add fragrance.
BTW, I've read conflicting stuff already. In Susan Miller Cavitch's book she recommends adding grapefruit extract to retard spoilage, and on the website "Sweet Cakes" (which ironically I learned about from Susan's book) it says:
"Do not use grapefruit seed extract (GSE) -- it is a trace accelerator and if your soap is made properly, there is no need to preserve it."
Also on Sweet Cakes:
"DO NOT use a hand blender (also known as a stick blender) at all once you've added fragrance to your soap mixture (although of course you may feel free to use it before this point)."
I've seen some YouTubers who do use the stick blender to add fragrance. What do you say? (I intend to use a paint mixer anyway.)
Sweet Cakes:
"Do not over-insulate. Profusely sweating soap is the beginning of disaster."
Does this mean, do not cover the "pudding" (that's what I call the trace you pour into a mold" with towels?
I think I have the basic process down, but these little things are puzzling.
Thanks!!
"Do not over-insulate. Profusely sweating soap is the beginning of disaster."
Does this mean, do not cover the "pudding" (that's what I call the trace you pour into a mold" with towels?
I think I have the basic process down, but these little things are puzzling.
Thanks!!
Soap doesn't need a preservative. Even if it did, GSE has been totally discredited as a preservative.
In a blog post by the Majestic Mountain Sage staff, I found this: "...Susan Miller Cavitch recommends GSE in her soapmaking books. We feel this is entirely because she leaves so much excess fat in the soap something must be done to protect the oil from going rancid. ... In Susan's first book she has excess fat ranging from 13 to 16 percent...." Source: https://www.thesage.com/recipes/recipe-exec/.State/Display/id/24
Also see: https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/soap-without-grapefruit-seed-extract.33736/
"...tips and tricks to make the basic recipe - oils we should avoid, and so on. I want to make a basic hard soap with a moderate amount of lather...."
Um, well, what about the suggestions given in earlier posts in this thread -- didn't they give you any ideas? Coconut, palm (or lard), and olive oil are the classic trilogy of soaping fats. You can't go wrong with them.
"...DO NOT use a hand blender (also known as a stick blender) at all once you've added fragrance to your soap..."
This can be good advice, but it's not always necessary. Some fragrances (not all, but some) accelerate trace and those are best stirred into the soap batter by hand. But many well-behaved fragrances can be stick blended into the fats before you add the lye and then the whole thing stick blended to trace.
I imagine Sweet Cakes is giving this conservative advice to keep newbies out of trouble. When presenting beginning concepts, teachers have to simplify things to get people started on the right track without overwhelming them with all the possible permutations of how things can be done. This particular advice sounds like that kind of simplification. It can't hurt to just stir the fragrance in by hand, but it might not be necessary.
"...Do not over-insulate. ..."
As far as putting too much insulation on the soap in the mold -- there is truth in that. I'd say a new soaper can get into more serious problems by over insulating than by not insulating enough. But what is too much and what is about right is something one learns from experience.
I personally never insulate my soap with towels or things like that. I lightly cover the top with wax paper or paper towels to keep the dust off and maybe hold in a small bit of heat. That's what works best for me. Other people do cover their soap with towels, but that's what they've learned works for them.
In a blog post by the Majestic Mountain Sage staff, I found this: "...Susan Miller Cavitch recommends GSE in her soapmaking books. We feel this is entirely because she leaves so much excess fat in the soap something must be done to protect the oil from going rancid. ... In Susan's first book she has excess fat ranging from 13 to 16 percent...." Source: https://www.thesage.com/recipes/recipe-exec/.State/Display/id/24
Also see: https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/soap-without-grapefruit-seed-extract.33736/
"...tips and tricks to make the basic recipe - oils we should avoid, and so on. I want to make a basic hard soap with a moderate amount of lather...."
Um, well, what about the suggestions given in earlier posts in this thread -- didn't they give you any ideas? Coconut, palm (or lard), and olive oil are the classic trilogy of soaping fats. You can't go wrong with them.
"...DO NOT use a hand blender (also known as a stick blender) at all once you've added fragrance to your soap..."
This can be good advice, but it's not always necessary. Some fragrances (not all, but some) accelerate trace and those are best stirred into the soap batter by hand. But many well-behaved fragrances can be stick blended into the fats before you add the lye and then the whole thing stick blended to trace.
I imagine Sweet Cakes is giving this conservative advice to keep newbies out of trouble. When presenting beginning concepts, teachers have to simplify things to get people started on the right track without overwhelming them with all the possible permutations of how things can be done. This particular advice sounds like that kind of simplification. It can't hurt to just stir the fragrance in by hand, but it might not be necessary.
"...Do not over-insulate. ..."
As far as putting too much insulation on the soap in the mold -- there is truth in that. I'd say a new soaper can get into more serious problems by over insulating than by not insulating enough. But what is too much and what is about right is something one learns from experience.
I personally never insulate my soap with towels or things like that. I lightly cover the top with wax paper or paper towels to keep the dust off and maybe hold in a small bit of heat. That's what works best for me. Other people do cover their soap with towels, but that's what they've learned works for them.
DianaMoon
Well-Known Member
"m, well, what about the suggestions given in earlier posts in this thread -- didn't they give you any ideas? Coconut, palm (or lard), and olive oil are the classic trilogy of soaping fats. You can't go wrong with them."
Yes, of course, and I appreciate every bit of info I get here. I meant something like, never add jojoba to olive...the product will seize up and you'll throw it all out... that sort of thing.... never mind!
Yes, of course, and I appreciate every bit of info I get here. I meant something like, never add jojoba to olive...the product will seize up and you'll throw it all out... that sort of thing.... never mind!
Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
Diana, dear heart, please don't take this the wrong way, but I'm wondering if you aren't over-thinking this a bit? You have a lot to learn and if you wait until every little question you have is answered you may never "get off the pot" and get some soap made ... and also wear down those of us who are willing to help. Time to get your feet wet, grasshopper.
BattleGnome
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There are very few if any rules like that. What works for one person may not for the next and there are very few reasons to throw out a batch of soap. 9 times out of 10 you can fix it somehow, just start a new thread asking for advice.
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The only suggestion about using butters in CP soap is to not use them at more than 15%. I use mostly shea butter, if I use any butter at all.
There are a few recipes that people share here that I think would make terrible soap, but the vast majority are fine. If a person sticks with the classic soaping fats -- coconut, palm kernel, lard, palm, olive, etc. -- it's hard to go astray. Add in some shea, cocoa butter, or castor if you want. Leave the exotic and expensive ingredients -- jojoba for example -- for another day.
Run every recipe through a soap recipe calculator to make sure YOU know the recipe is calculated correctly. Do not blindly trust anyone else's numbers -- even the best soapers make typos.
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Happy2018
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HI,
Also fairly new to soap making,(a couple of months) and would suggest that you make small batches, until you find something you like.
And gives you lots of time to watch how the ingredients change through the process.
DeeAnna mentioned http://soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp
What is really good about that site, is the site, takes the time to explain what everything means on the calculator: http://soapcalc.net/info/helptext.asp
Also fairly new to soap making,(a couple of months) and would suggest that you make small batches, until you find something you like.
And gives you lots of time to watch how the ingredients change through the process.
DeeAnna mentioned http://soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp
What is really good about that site, is the site, takes the time to explain what everything means on the calculator: http://soapcalc.net/info/helptext.asp
Limit Castor oil to 3-5% of your soaping oils (if you use it to enhance/support bubbles/lather) - you can go higher, but not much as it will make the soap soft and sticky.
Avoid high superfat (using the default in a given lye calculator is fine).
If you don't want or don't have a stick blender, limit your use of oils high in oleic acid (see this link) because they take longer to trace, especially when done by hand mixing.
In the beginning, use easily accessible oils/fats, such as ones you can purchase at grocery store, but avoid the exotic expensive oils. At least until you have become comfortable making soap and have a few successful batches under your belt. After that, you can branch out if you like.
Read reviews of all fragrances you plan to use before you start using them. Watch for words such as 'accelerates' 'rices or causes ricing' 'discolors', as they indicate problems may often occur when using them and I would recommend beginners don't bother with problematic fragrances.
Avoid using colorants that are not tested for use for the type of soaping you plan to do. For example, don't use MP colorants in CP or HP soap as you may get no color at all, and waste money. Buy from reputable sources (ask us here and we will be glad to help.)
As a beginner, avoid using ingredients that require a lot of extra considerations. Leave those for after you have become more proficient with simple soap.
Avoid high superfat (using the default in a given lye calculator is fine).
If you don't want or don't have a stick blender, limit your use of oils high in oleic acid (see this link) because they take longer to trace, especially when done by hand mixing.
In the beginning, use easily accessible oils/fats, such as ones you can purchase at grocery store, but avoid the exotic expensive oils. At least until you have become comfortable making soap and have a few successful batches under your belt. After that, you can branch out if you like.
Read reviews of all fragrances you plan to use before you start using them. Watch for words such as 'accelerates' 'rices or causes ricing' 'discolors', as they indicate problems may often occur when using them and I would recommend beginners don't bother with problematic fragrances.
Avoid using colorants that are not tested for use for the type of soaping you plan to do. For example, don't use MP colorants in CP or HP soap as you may get no color at all, and waste money. Buy from reputable sources (ask us here and we will be glad to help.)
As a beginner, avoid using ingredients that require a lot of extra considerations. Leave those for after you have become more proficient with simple soap.
dixiedragon
Well-Known Member
Diana and M05 - welcome to the forum and the hobby!
Diana, I do think you are overthinking a bit - don't let the soap intimidate you! LOL.
It's a bit difficult to answer your questions exactly, because there are a lot of variables. I do think that both Susan Miller Cavich's book and Sweetcakes are erring on the safe/conservative side.
Here is a good, basic simple recipe.
Lard 50%
Coconut 20%
Olive 25%
Castor 5%
5% superfat
You can substitute palm or tallow for lard - however, lard is wonderful in that it is a slow tracing hard oil, which is actually pretty unusual. A soap that is 50% tallow or palm is going to trace more quickly. lard buys you time.
I think that FOs have come a LONG way in the last 10 years or so. Many vendors have customer reviews where people report how the FOs performed. Take a moment to read through the reviews of the FO you will be using.
Making your first batch unscented is a great idea. If you really want to add scent, you can pick up an EO (essential oil) from a health food store - I recommend lavender, mint or lemongrass. These behaves very well in soap and are reasonably priced.
As for the rules - off if my head -
Don't use an aluminum pot! Use stainless steel, or a plastic bucket. Look for a 2 or 5 on the bottom of the plastic bucket.
Add the lye to the water, not the water to the lye.
Use your stick blender in short blasts - blast for 3 seconds or so, stir, then blast again.
Diana, I do think you are overthinking a bit - don't let the soap intimidate you! LOL.
It's a bit difficult to answer your questions exactly, because there are a lot of variables. I do think that both Susan Miller Cavich's book and Sweetcakes are erring on the safe/conservative side.
Here is a good, basic simple recipe.
Lard 50%
Coconut 20%
Olive 25%
Castor 5%
5% superfat
You can substitute palm or tallow for lard - however, lard is wonderful in that it is a slow tracing hard oil, which is actually pretty unusual. A soap that is 50% tallow or palm is going to trace more quickly. lard buys you time.
I think that FOs have come a LONG way in the last 10 years or so. Many vendors have customer reviews where people report how the FOs performed. Take a moment to read through the reviews of the FO you will be using.
Making your first batch unscented is a great idea. If you really want to add scent, you can pick up an EO (essential oil) from a health food store - I recommend lavender, mint or lemongrass. These behaves very well in soap and are reasonably priced.
As for the rules - off if my head -
Don't use an aluminum pot! Use stainless steel, or a plastic bucket. Look for a 2 or 5 on the bottom of the plastic bucket.
Add the lye to the water, not the water to the lye.
Use your stick blender in short blasts - blast for 3 seconds or so, stir, then blast again.
DianaMoon
Well-Known Member
For those who think I'm overthinking - well, I like to gather as much info as possible beforehand esp. when I am dealing with something potentially hazardous. For example, I would have mixed my lye solution in glass if I hadn't read in this forum not to do that. And so on. I've gotten a lot of great information here.
But yeah, there is a point where you have to just throw caution to the winds and take on the spirit of the kid on Youtube who mixed soap in a plastic cup with a screwdriver. No kidding.
I'm taking the plunge today & I have a quick question about superfatting.
I thought I understood the concept of superfatting. But on Bramble Berry I read a conversation about "adding" the extra oils after the lye is added. Huh? I thought that the superfatting was baked into the calculations on Soap Calc, and that it refers to the oil that was not saponified by the lye. You just measure out the oil they recommend at the outset and work with that.
Confused - can someone help?
OK, off to the hardware store for my safety equipment & Rooto & maybe castor oil (if I don't find that I'll go with what I've got in the house, OO and coconut, and possibly jojoba, but I think I'll leave that out of my 1st experiment.)
But yeah, there is a point where you have to just throw caution to the winds and take on the spirit of the kid on Youtube who mixed soap in a plastic cup with a screwdriver. No kidding.
I'm taking the plunge today & I have a quick question about superfatting.
I thought I understood the concept of superfatting. But on Bramble Berry I read a conversation about "adding" the extra oils after the lye is added. Huh? I thought that the superfatting was baked into the calculations on Soap Calc, and that it refers to the oil that was not saponified by the lye. You just measure out the oil they recommend at the outset and work with that.
Confused - can someone help?
OK, off to the hardware store for my safety equipment & Rooto & maybe castor oil (if I don't find that I'll go with what I've got in the house, OO and coconut, and possibly jojoba, but I think I'll leave that out of my 1st experiment.)
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I've also seen YouTube videos and read bloggers stating that. But by being on this forum you'll learn that you don't get to choose what oil or oils become your supper fat. Just take a big breath and have fun with it. Read the safety pages if you need a recap. That's the most important. Keep you recipes simple until you learn about trace. Have fun!
What Snowbell said. The advice on Brambleberry can be really odd sometimes.
There's no rule that says you have to add all the fats up front when you start to make soap. Sometimes there are good reasons why I hold back some fat to add later, but that happens very seldom.
The advice about "adding your superfat at trace" is a nice idea that is totally wrong, especially if you're using a cold process method.
If you're absent minded like me, there's a downside to holding back some fat -- it's really easy to forget to add it.
There's no rule that says you have to add all the fats up front when you start to make soap. Sometimes there are good reasons why I hold back some fat to add later, but that happens very seldom.
The advice about "adding your superfat at trace" is a nice idea that is totally wrong, especially if you're using a cold process method.
If you're absent minded like me, there's a downside to holding back some fat -- it's really easy to forget to add it.
Zany_in_CO
Saponifier
Back in the dark ages when I first started soaping, taking a "lye discount" meant just that, you discounted the NaOH amount by a certain percent to leave some of the fats unsaponified. The term "superfat" applied to fats you added after trace (CP) or after the cook (HP). The result is essentially the same.
Then along came SoapCalc that lumped the lye discount into the formula and called it superfat. Superfat is the general term we use whether we include the discount within the calculation or add a little something at the end. Hope that makes sense.
Note: Taking a lye discount during the formulation vs. adding a superfat at the end is a matter of personal preference.
Then along came SoapCalc that lumped the lye discount into the formula and called it superfat. Superfat is the general term we use whether we include the discount within the calculation or add a little something at the end. Hope that makes sense.
Note: Taking a lye discount during the formulation vs. adding a superfat at the end is a matter of personal preference.
