My first shaving soap is a success!
- Thread starter songwind
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To me, as well. The remedy is to soap hotter. If you keep the soaping temps above 156F/69C when adding and mixing your melted SA into your batter, you should be fine.
The stearic acid spots aren't harmful or anything like that- just unsightly.
IrishLass
The small lumps of stearic acid are probably not saponified, so this SA has now become part of your superfat. The fats you want as your superfat are more likely to be partly saponified instead.
I also don't think I'd care for shaving over little bumps of waxy stuff on my skin. ???
I also don't think I'd care for shaving over little bumps of waxy stuff on my skin. ???
kchaystack
Supporting Member
Not if it does not zap. As Deeanna said, it probably took some of your superfat.
The problem was that the stearic turned into solid when you add it to the mix, so the other oils that weren't in solid state saponified before the stearic had a chance. In HP the stearic is always in liquid state and i think that saponifies first.
"...because you add the SA as a second stage so your other oils can react first with the lye, is it to suspect that there is a bigger chance SA will become your superfat?..."
We're dealing in probabilities here so nothing is 100% certain, but in my opinion the probability is low.
A fat reacts with an alkali in two basic stages -- break off a fatty acid off the glycerin backbone and then react with the fatty acid to make a soap molecule. The hard part is breaking the fat apart; the really easy part is reacting with the fatty acid.
So an alkali will strongly prefer to react with an easy-going stearic acid molecule (assuming the SA is fully melted) in preference to the hassle of reacting with a fat molecule.
We're dealing in probabilities here so nothing is 100% certain, but in my opinion the probability is low.
A fat reacts with an alkali in two basic stages -- break off a fatty acid off the glycerin backbone and then react with the fatty acid to make a soap molecule. The hard part is breaking the fat apart; the really easy part is reacting with the fatty acid.
So an alkali will strongly prefer to react with an easy-going stearic acid molecule (assuming the SA is fully melted) in preference to the hassle of reacting with a fat molecule.
kmarvel
Well-Known Member
This weekend I made my first shaving soap. It was a hot process soap, and used a recipe posted by a fellow forum poster at one of the wet shaving forums.
I did a small batch (8 oz). 52% stearic acid, 48% coconut oil, saponified with KOH. I added 1.5 tablespoons of glycerin after it was done cooking, along with 1/4 oz of essential oils: 2/3 lemon & bergamot, 1/3 rosemary.
The soap making went fine, with no surprises aside from the soap never becoming truly translucent like my olive oil soap did. It passed the zap test, though.
I used it to shave tonight, and it was lovely. Nice and slick, and there was no skin reaction to the EOs. My face feels very nice afterward.
The scent turned out too lemony, and the rosemary was lost underneath. Next time, more basenotes and less lemon.
Just after pouring:
After 24 hours to set:
Whipped up a great lather:
It was very stable. This is after sitting 15 minutes while I showered and brushed my teeth:
Does this make a hard shaving bar or puck?
kmarvel
Well-Known Member
Songwind,
there are a billion threads on the badger and blade site. Do you happen to have the exact link to the thread for this recipe?? Thank you.
It makes a pliable soap that you can cut into a puck. I pour it into jars but also make puck refills. But they are fairly soft. Not like a hard bar of soap.
kmarvel
Well-Known Member
Hi, Mark -- You are right: DH = dear husband. DS = dear son.
Yes, I do very much like the soap. DH has continued to use it to shave with as well -- he has a half dozen other bars of soap to lather up with, but he is consistently grabbing the shaving soap when he reaches for his razor. (I am monitoring his shaving activities with a stealthy hawk's eye -- I figure if I pry, he will get self conscious and use the shaving soap just to please me, but if I just watch, I can gather the unbiased info I want.)
I have given samples to several friends, but I have yet to get a sample to my stepson (aka DS) who lives a few hours away. I have one bar earmarked just for him. Hubby eagerly begged a couple of samples to give to the gals who work in his office. After all that sharing with others, I have almost nothing left of my first batch.
Such a sad state of affairs -- I get to make more soap!
I have been reading about shaving soaps off an on. It seems as if there are several broad groups, only a few of which that I've read about. The first, obviously, are the coconut oil based soaps like the MdC (probably the least common type?) You and FFC talked about soap that have added lanolin such as Mitchells Wool Fat (kind of an old-school recipe?). Another type I'm picking up on are the soaps that have tallow as the main ingredient (I'm thinking of Williams Mug Soap). Any other types that you know of?
I can see each type has its ardent fans and detractors -- the reports and ensuing debates are amusing to read. I think it would be fun to develop two distinct types of shaving soaps. The MdC type is obviously one I am going to play with more. What would you say is another generally popular type that would be worth learning about and developing?
Does this produce a firm shaving soap bar or puck?? Or is it too soft to sell at Craft Shows???
LBussy
Well-Known Member
Shari answered you. It makes a somewhat pliable soap that can be formed into pucks, but is most generally sold in tins or tubs.
There is plenty of information on the recipes used already posted, in this thread and many others. As you just want to get something spoon fed to you for you to go on to sell, I would hope the least you could do is actually read the posts
Ivanstein
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I would strongly recommend against copying a recipe and selling it at craft shows. Soapmaking Forum has a great article that explains the pitfalls which can occur. Having limited knowledge of your products and what they contain can open you up to severe legal repercussion, let alone getting sued because someone gets a rash or whatnot.
Just a suggestion.
I highly suggest you start by making it and then testing it. Then you will likely want to tweak it to your liking. Selling shouldn't even be a thought until well tested.
kmarvel
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your response. Actually I have been reading alot on the threads here.
kmarvel
Well-Known Member
Tweaking and testing as we speak.
This weekend I made my first shaving soap. It was a hot process soap, and used a recipe posted by a fellow forum poster at one of the wet shaving forums.
I did a small batch (8 oz). 52% stearic acid, 48% coconut oil, saponified with KOH. I added 1.5 tablespoons of glycerin after it was done cooking, along with 1/4 oz of essential oils: 2/3 lemon & bergamot, 1/3 rosemary.
The soap making went fine, with no surprises aside from the soap never becoming truly translucent like my olive oil soap did. It passed the zap test, though.
I used it to shave tonight, and it was lovely. Nice and slick, and there was no skin reaction to the EOs. My face feels very nice afterward.
The scent turned out too lemony, and the rosemary was lost underneath. Next time, more basenotes and less lemon.
Just after pouring:
After 24 hours to set:
Whipped up a great lather:
It was very stable. This is after sitting 15 minutes while I showered and brushed my teeth:
Beautiful soap!!!! thank you for the pictures. Would this recipe harden up in a puck? Do you happen to have the link to the gentleman that was on the website you found the reverse soap recipe thread? Thank you.
Hi. Read your post and I am a little low on CCO also. What was your ratio for the CCO and your SA?? Would love to test a batch this week. Thank you.
Brandi, did you find the recipe??
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Can I dig up this thread? Is that okay!? I hope it's okay... :silent:
Have any of you lovely recipe contributors tried egg yolk in this awesome recipe?
I've read through and see a lot of additives have been tried and tested, but no mention of yolk. As far as I know, 1 yolk PPO can create a bit more of a silky lather, which seems like it might lend itself well to a shaving soap.
So as long as it's tempered in slowly, could it work in the 100% KOH recipe here?
Have any of you lovely recipe contributors tried egg yolk in this awesome recipe?
I've read through and see a lot of additives have been tried and tested, but no mention of yolk. As far as I know, 1 yolk PPO can create a bit more of a silky lather, which seems like it might lend itself well to a shaving soap.
So as long as it's tempered in slowly, could it work in the 100% KOH recipe here?
LBussy
Well-Known Member
Dragging up old threads is always acceptable, unless of course you ask a question that's already answered in it 100 times.
This time, no, never heard that question before!
I have never tried egg yolk, not sure why I would want to really. It would take some pretty good tempering (with the CO I would imagine) but sure, why not. Try it and let us know! You should also try it without so you know what you are changing. That's just MHO though,
This time, no, never heard that question before!
I have never tried egg yolk, not sure why I would want to really. It would take some pretty good tempering (with the CO I would imagine) but sure, why not. Try it and let us know! You should also try it without so you know what you are changing. That's just MHO though,
