Mushy soap -can it be rescued?

[Octavius]

Hi folks,
My first post!
Here's the recipe

To change the total weight of the batch, I ran it through soapcalc.
Unfortunately, soapcalc somewhat increased the water (recommending 12.16 oz from an original 10.0 oz). Unaware of this, I made the soap and it didn't trace even at 80F. I poured it into molds anyway. 48 hr later - still mushy. Could this increase in water have any thing to do with it.

Thanks for any comment/advice.

 

[judymoody]

Using more water can make your soap take longer to firm up.

Other factors are:

Your base oils - you used vegetable oil and canola oil. Depending on the composition of the vegetable shortening, you may have very little hard oils in your soap. This will contribute to a softer bar.

You said your soap didn't trace. If so, your soap might be prone to separations (a crumbly layer and a soft, even liquid, greasy layer).

Do you know if your soap gelled? Gelled soap can be cut typically within 24 hours after it cools. Ungelled soap can take up to a week. If it gelled it will be more translucent; ungelled is more creamy and opaque.

How soft is it? Is it like a block of cream cheese? Cheddar cheese? Something else?

Pictures are helpful if you can post one.

 

[Octavius]

Judy,
Thanks for the reply. This is what it looks like after 48 hr.
[attachment=0:1qrd54ie]DSCI0060.JPG[/attachment:1qrd54ie]
Consistency of apple sauce. Couldn't say if it gelled or not, as I left it under some towels for 24 hr.
Thanks.

 

[Hazel]

As judymoody mentioned, it depends on the shortening. What vegetable shortening did you use? If you used Crisco, the recommended water amount would have had an effect on the mushiness of your soap. Both Crisco and canola are too soft to combine in a soap. Even if you used 10 oz, I believe your soap would have still been mushy. Now if you had used Walmart's GV shortening which has tallow and palm in it, your soap would have been hard enough even with 12 oz of water.

If it's still mushy, you can rebatch it. I'd recommend adding some coconut, tallow or lard to help increase the hardness.

eta: I forgot to mention. We don't recommend any glass to be used for soapmaking. It can shatter. Use stainless steel or plastic which is PP #5 or HDPE #2. I know this person stated " I know some people who use plastic but I personally do not recommend that". I've used a Rubbermaid PP#5 pitcher for almost every single batch I've made. It's safer than glass. I'm a bit leery of this person's expertise after viewing the recipe and her recommendation of using glass. BTW, don't use wood utensils, either. The lye degrades wood and it can splinter.

 

[Octavius]

Hazel,

Thanks for the safety reminders regarding glass.
I was also surprised at the recommendation to use vinegar if splashed with lye. It might be logical (acid neutralizes alkali) but we were taught in chemistry class not to do this - just lots of water.

The Crisco came from Harris Teeter (large grocery store chain).
Label ingredients:
"Soybean Oil
Fully Hydrogenated Palm Oil
Partially Hydrogenated Palm and Soybean Oils..."

The soap is firming up a little. I'll give it a little longer and report back.

Thanks!

 

[Hazel]

I was also surprised at the recommendation to use vinegar if splashed with lye. It might be logical (acid neutralizes alkali) but we were taught in chemistry class not to do this - just lots of water.

I didn't even notice about the vinegar. You're right - lots of water.

Please let us know what happens with it. You can usually find coconut oil, tallow or lard in stores if you decide to rebatch.

Just my suggestions but if you decide you want to rebatch, the easiest way would be to use 2 ounces lye into 4 ounces water and 12 ounces coconut oil.