Most common antioxidant used

[kazmi]

Using ROE or mixed tocopherols will protect the oils while in storage but does it do anything for preserving those oils once you've made soap with them?

USABLE LIFE AND STORAGE​

[FONT=AJDBKM+TimesNewRoman,Times New Roman][FONT=AJDBKM+TimesNewRoman,Times New Roman]Unstable to acid, light, alkali, and oxidizing agents[/FONT][/FONT]

I've been considering that I should try to avoid oxidation and extend the shelf life of my soap but still on the fence of the best method for doing this. So I'm really interested in this thread.

 

[dagmar88]

The shelf life is next to endless with a good recipe and fresh oils.
It's the more delicate oils that could use an anti oxidant to stay fresh until saponification.
I just refrigerate those.

 

[julieanne]

Hi Kazmi,

Honestly, I'm not sure if adding ROE or nat mixed tocopherols to the fat part of CP soaps will prevent DOS. Alkalinity could erode is potential as an antioxidant, makes chemical sense to me in fact.

Putting all the pieces together, this would seem a logical way to ensure little to no DOS:

Prevent rancidity in short shelf-life oils (those that are highly unsaturated & vendor says use within 6 months of opening) by adding nat mixed tocopherols to the oil after its first use at a level of 0.5% to 1% by volume. This will ensure when used in soaps the fats/oils have no peroxides/anisidine (rancidity) in them at the time of use.

When formulating with highly unsaturated oils, blend with at least 10% coconut or another long shelf life fat/oil or butter as a preventative measure. Synergisticly, the stable fats may protect those less stable. In Kevin's article, this seems to be a true conclusion.

When added to highly unsat fats/oils, nat mixed tocopherols are "sacrificed" as the thing oxidized in place of the thing oxidized highly unsat fats/ oils. As such, they have a limited lifetime in which they are able to prevent rancidity, and alone in an opened bottle, they, too, have an expiry usage date before they are oxidized & offer no protection at all. Hence, it's still a good idea to use up highly unsaturated fats/oils quickly- don't buy in bulk quantities if you think they'll sit around for over 2 years with E/ROE added, less than a year without E or ROE added. Once the Vit E ( when using this term I specifically mean ONLY the nat mixed tocopherols version of E) is used up, the fats/oils begin to oxidize. I'm not sure when this event happens in time. Refrigeration could help, flushing with nitrogen and capping quickly is a proven method but few us have a nitrogren tank handy for this type of preventative.

Keeping headspace in the bottle at a minimum also works in conjunction with a tightly sealed cap. Some transfer oils that quickly oxidize to smaller bottles so the each successive bottle has little or no headspace.

Julie

 

[daisy8]

Very interesting thread. Has anyone had OS when using a fair amount of Grapeseed Oil?

 

[dagmar88]

Very interesting thread. Has anyone had OS when using a fair amount of Grapeseed Oil?

Grapeseed oil is very prone to DOS. I avoid it altogether in soap.

 

[daisy8]

That's a bit of useful information, dagmar88, thank you. Does DOS happen no matter how much g/s oil is used?

 

[Bicycle808]

Here's a thread high-jackin' question: How much does super-fattin' contribute to DOS?

 

[juliet]

Here's a thread high-jackin' question: How much does super-fattin' contribute to DOS?

According to Kevin Dunn, none at all, more or less super-fat has no impact on DOS.

 

[Bicycle808]

According to Kevin Dunn, none at all, more or less super-fat has no impact on DOS.

If that's the case, it calls into question some of the theories that come up when folks are discussing label strategies...

 

[PAT_D_O]

Anyone tried EDTA?

¿Has anyone tried EDTA in their soap?

Recently, in a lotion making class I took we were told to use demineralized water or, if we were using distilled water instead, that we should use EDTA to reduce the mineral content in the water and extend the life of the lotion. This is because EDTA acts a chelating agent.

Then, I see Prof. Dunns link and he says that EDTA can also be used to prevent rancidity in soapmaking oils and I think it would be good to improve the performance on your soap when using hard water as well, since minerals in hard water interfere with the cleaning action and prevents suds. I also read (somewhere) that EDTA loves alkaline environments, which sounds like soap to me.

I have never used EDTA in my soaps but (label appeal apart) I think this addition could be very good: prevent rancidity and good for hard water areas…. What do you think?
Pat

 

[angelwings2ltd]

Vitamin E as an Antioxident

LSG, I've been meaning to try this. I have a ton of vit E capsules. Could I just prick one of those suckers open and put a few drops in?

Thats what I do. . . I use a small pair of scissors to cut the end, and usually use 4 or 5 capsules in each batch.

I also add the vit. E either with the rest of the oils, or mix it in well just at trace, so its all incorporated into the mix.

I had someone give me a few jars that were past the *Use-by* date. . . They were new & unopened jars, so I figured it wouldnt hurt, using in the soap!

Angel

 

[kazmi]

¿Has anyone tried EDTA in their soap?

Recently, in a lotion making class I took we were told to use demineralized water or, if we were using distilled water instead, that we should use EDTA to reduce the mineral content in the water and extend the life of the lotion. This is because EDTA acts a chelating agent.

Then, I see Prof. Dunns link and he says that EDTA can also be used to prevent rancidity in soapmaking oils and I think it would be good to improve the performance on your soap when using hard water as well, since minerals in hard water interfere with the cleaning action and prevents suds. I also read (somewhere) that EDTA loves alkaline environments, which sounds like soap to me.

I have never used EDTA in my soaps but (label appeal apart) I think this addition could be very good: prevent rancidity and good for hard water areas…. What do you think?
Pat

This may be a good idea. I use it in some of my lotions (high ph or with aloe or some extracts) so it may not be a bad idea in soap.

 

[DeeAnna]

"...use demineralized water or,if we were using distilled water instead, that we should use EDTA to reduce the mineral content in the water..."

Uh, well, it's interesting that your instructor would tell you this, because distilled water IS demineralized water. Just look at what is left behind when you boil a pan of water dry -- the crusty residues are the minerals that were left behind when the water boiled away. This is a crude example of water distillation.

In fact, water that is purified by distillation is arguably better than water run through a demineralizing process because distillation removes organic impurities and microbial organisms from the water that the demineralization process may not.

 

[julieanne]

Camden-Grey also sells nat mixed tocopherols. Here is their blurb regarding the use of T-50 in soaps. I like Pat_D_O's suggestion to use EDTA. A chemistry prof once explained, EDTA is the match maker in chemistry- introduces one molecule to the other, they then have a chemical reaction and form less reactive substances (typically). If memory serves, EDTA is safe, and has a long history of use with no adverse effects. It gets pooh-poohed sometimes though since industry is always trying to keep interests going with "new and improved" products. With the "new & improved" body formulation ingredients you don't get that great usage history that EDTA has already established.

T-50 product description, from Camden-Grey's website:

Sold by weight. T-50 all natural vitamin E. With daily concerns over the safety of synthetic ingredients, why risk the success of your products by using synthetic antioxidants? There are two classes of natural Vitamin E: tocopherols and tocotrienols. We offer you all natural low d-alpha mixed tocopherols or T-50.


Tocopherols: A term used to describe the collection of all the tocopherols in Vitamin E that occur naturally in food. There are 4 types of tocopherols: d-alpha, d-beta, d-gamma and d-delta. Low d-alpha mixed tocopherols are often used to slow the onset of rancidity in fats and oils. Natural oxidants are isolated from vegetable oils and concentrated to contain a mixture of d-alpha (commonly known as Vitamin E), d-beta, d-gamma and d-delta tocopherols.

T-50 is all natural, low d-alpha mixed tocopherols, has 500 mg total tocopherols, and is a brownish-red, clear, viscous oil (color may differ slightly from batch to batch). When you compare prices between the gel caps commonly sold in drugstores and these Tocopherols, pound per pound Tocopherols are a lot less expensive to use, not to mention that you will be using all natural Vitamin E and not synthetic.

At proper usage levels T-50 does not contribute odor, taste or color to the end product. Tocopherols are natures perfect antioxidant. The optimal level of tocopherols in finished products will range from 0.01% to 0.1% of the fat or oil content. Because antioxidants can only prevent oxidation, not reverse it, it is important to add the antioxidant as early in the process as possible.

Tocopherols also slow the onset of rancidity in fats & oils in your soaps & lotions. If you superfat your soaps, then Vitamin E is a must so that your soaps will not develop rancidity in a few months. Tocopherols also help to protect the most vulnerable citrus essential oils.
Recommended usage: 4 drops per one pound of oils in a recipe. T-50 is insoluble in water. Constituents of our T-50 mixture: 50/50 natural mixed tocopherols & partially hydrogenated vegetable oil, mainly soybean oil. May be labeled as natural vitamin E in finished products. Do not refrigerate, store in cool place. Shelf life: 36 months when stored in an unopened container. This product is food grade and is GRAS. INCI: