Making my first cold process soap batch

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LOL. Yes, that's why we (almost universally) worship stick blenders. If your soap is in a pot, you could put it on your stove on LOW (the lowest or second lowest heat setting you have). The heat will stop you from getting false trace and also speed up the process.
 
Dixiedragon thank you for the advice it worked like a charm. I just bought stick blender to so maybe I won't have to do the bain marie thing again lol. also had to buy a new scale as I just broke mine trying to put it away and tripped over the blasted dog. I'll get pictures of the soap and mold etc later. I hear I'm suppose to let it rest for 24-48 hrs before unmolding it. just want to make sure that is right.
 
It should be texture/firmness of a block of cheddar cheese when you unmold. Depending on your recipe, your temps and the whims of the soap gods, that could be 12 hrs or a few days. I generally unmold 12-24 hours later.
 
Thanks for the heads up dixiedragon. Can't wait to unmold them hope it goes right they smell nice like cocoa butter and peaches tho.
 
Well just checked on my soap it has set enough to take it out of the mold it's still a little soft but I'm sure that is normal. It has a wonderful cocoa peach smell and it's a pretty shimmery peachy/orange colour. Also just got my new stick blender and scale now I'm going to do a dye and fragrance free version of what I made yesterday. The dried-ish soap on my soap making jug produces quite a bubbly cream lather which is nice to bad the peach smell don't last overly long tho. I'm going to make a sandalwood soap using red sandalwood powder blended into my liquid and a rose petal powder soap doing the same thing but I'm going to use rose water in that one.
 

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The color is quite nice and the soaps remind me of orange sherbet. Congratulations on your soaking success.

Many fragrances do not linger on the skin, unfortunately. Some don't even last long into the cure even. But there are some that do both. One of my all time favorites, Dragons Blood,lingers on the skin, as well as staying in the soap for ages and ages. I just washed with an Easter Egg soap I made about 16 months ago and the fragrance remains almost as strong as when new and my hands smell of DB for hours. I just love this scent. It's one drawback is it will turn the whitest soap Brown. However, the Brown fades to a lovely caramel color in use in this Easter Egg soap, so I'm okay with it.

There are some scents that fade with cure, BUT come back when using the soap. I can't think of any off-hand, but that's really a nice surprise if you are not expecti g it.
 
What I would not give for some good orange sherbet. Thanks for letting me know about dragons blood for soap making. If it turns soap brown that might be something else I can use to get brown soap for some pinecone shaped soap
 
Well I did the zap test on my new soap taste like soap no burning or electric type whatever. This soap is really soft almost like a thick jelly kinda nice really but I assume it might be because of the rapeseed and olive oil I did add sugar to that base to boost lather I did use a bit of one dome as I kind squished it oops. I did make a new soap base no dye or fragrance, used homemade oat milk mixing the lye into it makes it gloppy but it's not hard to mix or anything recipe as follows. Yes castor oil is high in this most to make up for the lack of olive oil and rapeseed oil
Aloe Butter 20g
Apricot Kernel Oil 45g
Castor Oil 60g
Coconut Oil 60g
Coco Butter 40g
Shea Butter 40g.
Soap Bar Quality Range Your Recipe
Hardness 29 - 54. 40
Cleansing 12 - 22. 20
Conditioning 44 - 69. 55
Bubbly 14 - 46. 40
Creamy 16 - 48. 41
Iodine 41 - 70. 54
INS 136 - 165. 155
 
First off remember, soap is not a moisturizer it is for cleaning albeit gently if it is a good balanced bar.
Castor does not make a good replacement for OO or Rapeseed Oil. You would have been better off using more of your Apricot Kernel Oil which would have offset off some of the butter. Aloe butter is not much different from shortening so save your money, you can just use some aloe juice as part or all water replacement.

I do congratulate you on your first soap, but you can make a much better balanced soap using less butter and also helps cut cost.
 
While soap is not a full on moisturizer it can help if the right things are used I'm not really bothered by the amount butter used it's the same price or cheaper then the apricot kernel oil and to be fair I perfer my butters but everyone is different.

Aloe butter is different from shorting at lest what we get in the UK it's made with coconut oil and aloe vera not veg oil or soybean oil etc.

As for costs I est each small bar I made yesterday (which got really hard in fact harder then my first batch using rapeseed and olive oil the previous day) cost me roughly £1 if that and thats me rounding up to the nearest whole. My molds cost more then my butters,oils,lye,dye and frangrances.

But depending on where we live what's readily available, what's cheap and our preference everyone's soap and how they view others preferences will be effected.

I also have more castor because it helps with bubbly lather apricot kernel oil does not help that and it made my bar softer then I wanted when I reduced the butters so I reduced the apricot kernel oil increased the butters and increased the castor oil. I unmolded this soap last night and will be doing the zap test on it today if it goes well I'll see how well it does so soon after being made.
 
Aloe butter is different from shorting at lest what we get in the UK it's made with coconut oil and aloe vera not veg oil or soybean oil etc.

The points made are still the same. It's still more expensive than just using CO and aloe. The only benefit it can add is the aloe, right?

I was always impressed by all the different "butters" until I discovered they we're just palm or CO plus a little "special" oil or other ingredient.

This was your first batch ever, is that right? I just want to point out that no one here is trying to be your Mom or criticize your oil/fat choices. Just about everyone here has been excited to use some of these different items and tried them out and are offering their experience. So, if more than one person says, "too much castor makes a sticky bar..." Or "too much CO can be drying," maybe ask some more questions or do a search to see if there's a consensus.

Having said all that, sometimes, even after I have gathered all the thoughts and opinions, I still jump in and try anyway, just to see what it's like.
 
1) You really DO need to be making a minimum of 500 g total to minimize the effects of the imprecision of your scale. For the 250 g batches you've been making the difference between 5% and 0% superfat is about a gram of NaOH. With most kitchen scales having a 1 g precision, even a 500 g batch will swing within a percent or two of superfat as you stack the imprecision of every measurement in the batch. The truth is that because almost any lye you buy will have absorbed water already making it less "pure" so you are unlikely to make a dangerously lye-heavy batch of soap. What does happen, however, is that the imprecision makes it so that you don't really know what that soap you're using IS. You can't make reliable subjective judgement of it and you can't reproduce it if you find something you like.

2) Castor oil does not make more lather, it gives existing lather more longevity. There is absolutely no reason to go above 5% with it, as it begins to have detrimental effects, and in no case should it go above 10%.

3) Everybody has been critical of your fat choices, but you're not too far away with your last batch. A 33% soap with brittle/hard/soft oils is a classic combination, and you're just about there. In a vegan soap recipe, shea and cocoa butters can take the place of the "hard oil" component, and those two combined are about a third of your total. Since you've said your aloe butter is coconut- based it's a "brittle oil" for soaping purposes and combined with your straight coconut makes up another third. That leaves the apricot kernel third as "soft oil." That would make a very good soap without any castor at all, but since you've got it use it at 5% for better bubble staying power.

So try this. It has all your fat choices just tweaked to be more effective:
160 g of apricot kernel
80 g of aloe butter (BTW, if it's coconut oil based, use coconut in the calculator. The US Soapcalc is going to assume hydrogenated soy)
80 g of coconut oil
80 g of shea butter
80 g of cocoa butter
20 g of castor oil

If you want, play with the proportions of the cocoa and shea, or the aloe and coconut. Add some olive or rapeseed in place of some of the apricot if you want. Just keep the total of each category I described above at 160 g, and run any changes through a calculator to verify the lye.

Honestly, trust us and try these suggestions. No, we're not trying to be your Mom (or Dad in my case) but you did come here presumably for advice from more experienced soapers, right? These guidelines are traditional for a reason - they make good soap!
 
Also, you won't get the true feeling of your soap until it's had a proper cure of 4-6 weeks. It's still young. Many soaps do better with an even longer cure. As stated, nobody is trying to be your mom or dad, many of use are sharing our experience and knowledge as many here have been making and selling for a long time. The members here have likely tried just about everything and sharing their knowledge freely. You asked for help, it's being given. If you want to experiment you a certainly can. But, why waste ingredients (too much castor) when it's mot really helping over a certain percentage.
 
Artemis it depends really coconut oil is cheap here in the UK aloe butter is just as cheap but getting 100% pure aloe vera is very costly and it's slightly hard to get in my area unless I got to a health food store or order online then again you might find out that's not 100%. I have found some place selling powdered aloe vera which I'm unsure about. I have no problem with people giving advice and stating their view but again the use of products depends on where in the world you live and how easy it is to get a hold of it. as for the castor oil making a sticky bar or coconut oil being drying it depends on the person and what else is in the batch that's my view. Also I have made 2 batches of soap one yesterday and one the day before that. the first one had olive oil and rapeseed oil and the bar is hard enough to push out of the mold but it's still really really soft.

BrewerGeorge Some of the soap books I have read said castor oil makes more and better lather and boosts anything else's lather abilities even a few sites have said something along those lines I would list the sites but I don't feel like rereading over 50+ soap sites. I will give the recipe you put up a try tho I think I'll tweak it a bit with the shea and coco butter as I love these to items. my first batch had olive and rapeseed oils either I did not do it right or these just make really soft soaps as my first batch is like a firmish jelly. still find it hard to believe aloe butter some people have used is mixed with soy.

I would use lard as it's cheap here but I'm unsure about using it in soap. and one try lard? also I was given a box of long shelf life milk stuff from someone and was thinking of using it in a oatmeal milk and honey soap anyone use boxed long shelf life milk in soap?

shunt2011 I use it a lot of castor oil because I bought a litre of it for like $3 USD or some where around £1-2. so not really pricey to me. besides what else can I use castor oil for?....seriously does it have other uses as I only know it's used in soap making.
 
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shunt2011 I use it a lot of castor oil because I bought a litre of it for like $3 USD or some where around £1-2. so not really pricey to me. besides what else can I use castor oil for?....seriously does it have other uses as I only know it's used in soap making.

If you decide to branch into lip balm, lotion etc it's good in those. also if you are constipated. :)
 
Lard?

Lard, you say?

:D

Heck yeah! Lard is spectacular in soap. I assumed that you were trying to make a vegan soap with the choices you listed. It's a hard oil for soaping, so use it to replace some of the shea/cocoa.
 
Aloe Butter 20g
Apricot Kernel Oil 45g
Castor Oil 60g
Coconut Oil 60g
Coco Butter 40g
Shea Butter 40g.

So if your aloe butter is coconut oil, that puts your total coconut oil at 30%. You might like that, but you might not. 22% castor is really high - I'm curious to see how that will turn out!
 
Dixiedragon totally did not think of those got any ideas on lip balms as I totally need some lol! wait how does it help constipation?

I'm not vegan just got stuff I know tell ya what lard is great when your roasting a turkey! Will play around with lard now lol
 
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