If you are not wanting any more advice, AKA constructive criticism, skip this. You have been warned.
If you really do want to create good soap, read on.
Hello,
I'm going to explain what I do to make soap and I would like to have some advices from you to get some improvements.
This is what I do:
10% Castor; 20% Coconut; 35% Sunflower Oil (Non High Oleic); 35% Palm Kernel Oil. Soap calculator says its properties are good.
5% superfat
That is not a good recipe. You need to toss this recipe. The issues are these:
Too much castor oil. I find that that much castor prolongs cure too much, and it actually decreases the lather.
I, personally, find that too much coconut oil, but others don't mind it. Your own testing will help you decide. However, coconut oil and palm kernel oil serve the same purpose, and using both makes a very stripping soap. Figure out which one is cheaper for you, and stick to 20% of that.
I don't use sunflower oil, but others like it, so wait for them. I use olive oil as the liquid oil component of my soap.
What you are missing: Either palm, tallow, or lard for at least 35% of your recipe. These give your bar hardness, and longevity. If you have no religious, dietary, or cultural reasons to avoid animal fats, lard and tallow are marvelous in soap. If you have reasons to avoid animal fats, then palm will serve the same purpose. These oils all bring very different qualities to soap, so testing is necessary.
All of this requires repeated testing with minor variations of amounts of each oil until you know what YOUR favorite soap is. Then more testing to figure out other awesome recipes. This takes time. Lots of time. Each batch requires 4-6 weeks cure time. Then you tweak that recipe again. Be absolutely sure to keep good notes so that you can refer to them when all those batches start blending together.
about 10mL of fragrance/1kg of soap (even if it recommends 20mL)
You need to follow recommendations on fragrance amounts. We have a whole area dedicated to fragrances and how they act in soap.
http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=47182
40ºC for the temperature of the oils (they say higher speeds ups the trace)
Higher temperature does speed up trace. But you need to know what YOUR recipes need to have to perform well. You can only learn that through experience.
I use grape seeds for exfoliation; than I mix until light trace
I would add those seeds after trace to avoid them settling to the bottom, but you go with whatever works for you. Just be sure you KNOW what works, and why.
when I use eucalyptus fragrance my soap remains liquid for me to pour it well in the mould; when I use lavender or marine fragrances it solidifies quicker.
That is absolutely normal. You will really benefit yourself by reading through at least the first 5-10 pages of the Beginner Forum and Lye Based Soap Forum. Read the stickies first. Pay special attention to anything with the word "help" in the title. This is a good intro to troubleshooting. All the issues with fragrances are mentioned in those forums or the Fragrance Oils/Fragrance Reviews Forum.
Than... I was trying to use a color pattern in my soap... such as: coloured layer, white layer (in the middle), and another coloured layer. Do you know better one which is easy?
I would strongly suggest you head over to YouTube and use the phrase "soap making" in the search bar. There are lots of videos there. We also have lots of challenges on this forum. Each one has a video to show a swirl. Just use "challenge" as a search term.
Other thing I would like to say... than I leave my soap in the mold for 1 month; in the first days I just leave a towel to cover it; in the days after I cover it with plastic not to let it contact with oxygen; of course I don't leave it to light.
Than, I cut it in 2cm slices, I wrap it in celofane and seal it in vacuum and I place it in a box made of thick paper (220g/m3) that I make by myself.
I have no idea, whatsoever, where you read that method, but it is so very wrong! You leave your soap in the mold 18-24
hours, cut them, stand them on edge with at least 0.5 cm air space between each two bars. DO NOT COVER OR WRAP THEM! Turn them to another edge in about a week, at which time you need to zap test. Turn in a week, repeat every week. Let cure
open to air for four to six
weeks. Then, and only then can you package it. If you have a box, I would not use cellophane.
I think it costs me about 0,50€ to make and I sell them for 1€.
I'm looking for advices and...that's it
I think you have probably gotten the idea that we think it is a bad idea to sell right now.
To give you some idea, I have been making soap and testing recipes for over three years. I am just now starting to test my soaps on a broader audience, (I give it to people free for their opinions) and entertaining the idea of selling. Why, you ask? Because you need 3-4 good solid recipes that appeal to a wide audience that you can get the same results from over and over, and that takes lots and lots of time making lots and lots of soap.
Every factor changes the soap. I got a batch of olive oil that made two batches of soap fail. Same manufacturer, same brand, same store. Tiny differences of quality.
I hope you realize that none of us were born knowing how to make soap. We all had to learn the hard way. And we have lots of members that started trying to sell too early, so don't feel alone.