Liquid soap troubles

[Charleyssoap]

Hello all,

I started making cold process and I do a clarity test about 24 hours after set up and it is clear but the phen test still is bright pink. Is this something that could be corrected by sequestering for a while or am I going to have to neutralize? Also does anyone know of an online tutorial video that can assist me with working my PH monitor? The directions are confusing and Im having trouble with reading it. Also the paper PH strip reads between 8 and 9.

 

[ResolvableOwl]

24 hours is quite a short time for CPLS to pass the clarity test. When a soap passes the clarity test, there is no unreacted oil left, so waiting longer won't be of any use.
Note that phenolphthalein is an unreliable pH indicator to determine the completion of saponification, since its colour change is just in the region of perfectly fine pH of finished LS. To make things worse, final pH will depend on the soap recipe (in particular if you have much or little/none coconut oil).

Instructions to use pH in soapmaking are confusing, because pH in soapmaking itself is confusing. Read more here about its limitations.

More reliable than working around quirks of pH readings, is the zap test. If your soap is zappy, then you somehow have to get rid of excess lye. You can add some oils (in steps of 2% of the original amount of oils) and let them react (that can be lengthy, but you don't want to risk excess superfat). Quicker (but with no less caution), citric acid can be added to neutralise lye – but once again, you don't want to add that much acid that it destroys the soap.

In any case, when you are in doubt of lye-heaviness of liquid soap, triple check your recipe with one (or multiple) soap calculator(s), find out the purity of your KOH lye (usually around 85–90%, but it may vary with supplier and time), and if possible the saponification values of the oils you used.

 

[Charleyssoap]

24 hours is quite a short time for CPLS to pass the clarity test. When a soap passes the clarity test, there is no unreacted oil left, so waiting longer won't be of any use.
Note that phenolphthalein is an unreliable pH indicator to determine the completion of saponification, since its colour change is just in the region of perfectly fine pH of finished LS. To make things worse, final pH will depend on the soap recipe (in particular if you have much or little/none coconut oil).

Instructions to use pH in soapmaking are confusing, because pH in soapmaking itself is confusing. Read more here about its limitations.

More reliable than working around quirks of pH readings, is the zap test. If your soap is zappy, then you somehow have to get rid of excess lye. You can add some oils (in steps of 2% of the original amount of oils) and let them react (that can be lengthy, but you don't want to risk excess superfat). Quicker (but with no less caution), citric acid can be added to neutralise lye – but once again, you don't want to add that much acid that it destroys the soap.

In any case, when you are in doubt of lye-heaviness of liquid soap, triple check your recipe with one (or multiple) soap calculator(s), find out the purity of your KOH lye (usually around 85–90%, but it may vary with supplier and time), and if possible the saponification values of the oils you used.

wow, this was very informative. Thank you so much!

 

[Susie]

Clarity testing is not very helpful when you finish making a batch. You only need to know two things:

1. Is there excess lye? Zap testing gives the answer.
2. Are there excess fatty acids? Let the soap sit a couple of hours in a clear container. If it doesn't separate, it's fine.

Always be sure to check your scale for accuracy, and always follow a soap calculator, and you will have good soap.

 

[ResolvableOwl]

The settling test of FFA/superfat is difficult in opaque LSs like GLS. What is your advice to tell apart stearic acid or glycerol mono-/distearate (FFA/excess superfat) from dispersed potassium stearate crystals (soap)?