linseed oil soap

[AliOop]

@AliOop, @Zany_in_CO It is a cold-pressed edible oil. It's really edible and doesn't taste very good. It is used for cold food, it should not be heated too much. Storage in the refrigerator. I mixed the lye with lye at a low temperature and put it in small molds so that it doesn't get too hot.

Yes, that's what I understood you to mean, that you have food-grade, cold-pressed linseed oil.

Sounds perfect for trying out a linseed-oil soap, @Iveta Pelá. Please let us know how it turns out, and how it does over time.

 

[Iveta Pelá]

Sounds perfect for trying out a linseed-oil soap, @Iveta Pelá. Please let us know how it turns out, and how it does over time.

Sure, I'll be happy to share my testing adventure

Product composition

100% BIO virgin linseed oil cold pressed, from organically grown flax seeds.

Nutritional information per 100 g: Energy value 3700 kJ/900 kcal; Fats 100 g of which - saturated fatty acids 10 g, - monounsaturated fatty acids 20 g, - polyunsaturated fatty acids 70 g; Carbohydrates 0 g - of which sugars 0 g; Protein 0 g, Salt 0 mg.

Active ingredients: Linoleic acid (Omega-6) 15 g, Alpha-linolenic acid (Omega-3) 55 g, Oleic acid (Omega-9) 17.5 g

 

[Savage Daughter]

Sure, I'll be happy to share my testing adventure

Product composition

100% BIO virgin linseed oil cold pressed, from organically grown flax seeds.

Nutritional information per 100 g: Energy value 3700 kJ/900 kcal; Fats 100 g of which - saturated fatty acids 10 g, - monounsaturated fatty acids 20 g, - polyunsaturated fatty acids 70 g; Carbohydrates 0 g - of which sugars 0 g; Protein 0 g, Salt 0 mg.

Active ingredients: Linoleic acid (Omega-6) 15 g, Alpha-linolenic acid (Omega-3) 55 g, Oleic acid (Omega-9) 17.5 g

I use cold pressed, raw flax seed oil - and raw flax seeds - all of the time. In salad dressings I make, over cooked oatmeal instead of butter (great for hair & skin when taken internally FYI), ground in my coffee grinder & sprinkled raw over salads, in smoothies and a lot more. Amazing stuff!

Personally, I won't be using either the seeds or the oil in soap because I know how quickly either can go rancid, but I am interested to hear how your experiment goes.

Buuuut....another option for using flax seed derivatives in soap might be flax seed gel.

Don't go to YouTube for learning to make this, because I have seem some of the worst 'how to' videos on this process ever...more like HOW NOT TO You do NOT cook the seeds with water to derive gel from the seeds. Using heat is a surefire way to promote rancidity.

Simply soak whole, raw flax seeds in distilled water overnight. Cover this mix to prevent water evaporation.

The next day, press through a strainer to get all of that gel separated from the seeds. Freeze the seeds for later use in something else. I would blend this flax gel into your oils before adding your lye water. It emulsifies into any oil quite nicely when using a stick blender, actually, as I have found when making salad dressings with it. Works great to keep salad dressings nicely together & spices suspended in the mix

You will wind up with a very viscous gel, which can also be used directly on the face, hair etc. This stuff is beautiful on the skin & in the hair....silky soft silky soft silky soft...can't say it enough

 

[Iveta Pelá]

@QuasiQuadrant Thanks for the great advice on the flax seed gel. I saw that video on YouTube and it's true, it's logical that heat will help them go rancid.

My experiment after demoulding. I probably should have left it in the molds for a while longer. And you can see that the shapes are not ideal. But it's just a bit of soap as an experiment, it will be at home for us. The teddy bears have a bit of soda, again my impatience to let the soap wait longer in the mold.

1)
Teddy Bears Soap:
castor oil: 5%
coconut oil: 25%
lard: 20%
linseed oil: 50%
0% superfat
+ sodium citrate
Made: 12/5/2023

2) @AliOop
Round soap:
castor oil: 5%
coconut oil: 20%
lard: 40%
linseed oil: 35%
0% superfat
+ sodium citrate
+ sugar
Made: 6/12/2023

The soap is still soft, the teddy bears more even if they are a day older. So we'll see how they do next.

 

[Iveta Pelá]

After healing, I already use soaps. I was surprised by the softness of this soap. It's so nice in the bath... Teddy bears maybe softer, but there's not much difference between them. It just goes down a little more than other soaps, it's not as harsh. The lather is fine, similar to that of olive soap, but a little richer. Probably because it is softer and dissolves more easily. DOS is not yet on any of these soaps. I really like the feel of this soap, I think I will make it again sometime for my own use.

 

[AliOop]

Those bears are very cute!

Well, I think we all knew that the linseed oil would create a fairly soft soap, right? But if you like it, and it doesn't go bad, those are the most important things.

After all, if your soap gets used up quickly, that means you get to make soap more often, right?

 

[Iveta Pelá]

Those bears are very cute!

Well, I think we all knew that the linseed oil would create a fairly soft soap, right? But if you like it, and it doesn't go bad, those are the most important things.

After all, if your soap gets used up quickly, that means you get to make soap more often, right?

Yes yes, I'm looking forward to making it again sometime
I also wonder how long it will last. I keep them on a shelf lined with parchment paper at room temperature, normal humidity. Just like my other soaps. I don't have any particular expectations, but I'm interested as an experiment.

 

[Heather Ribisel]

I

I am interested in the linseed oil soap. When I added a little linseed oil to one soap, I got a soap that I really like. That's why I was looking for inspiration for linseed oil soaps. I was surprised to find almost nothing. I think it's because the linseed oil soap has a short shelf life? Is it a DOS problem?
I read that 2% linseed oil in soap is fine. Also, sodium citrate helps as a chelator. Good....
And then I found the soaps from the flax farm, they looked beautiful, so I looked at the composition:
linseed oil
water
coconut oil
glycerol

This means that there is a high percentage of linseed oil in this soap. How is it possible? Apparently this kind of soap works when they sell it? I would like to try it in a small dose. According to the composition of the soap, could the recipe look something like this?

View attachment 75524

is my reasoning correct? With the fact that I would add sodium citrate. Does anyone have experience with linseed oil soap?

I also found a registered patent for linseed oil soap, where linseed oil, palm oil and glycerol are added to the cold soap base.
This makes me think that this soap can be very good.

i use Rubio Monocoat soap to clean my wood floors. It is pure linseed oil soap with Lemon in it. It is the best all around cleaning soap I have used. It even cleans glass within 95% of pure alcohol. I have ordered Rampal La Tour’s linseed oil with lavender scent from France and it is equally amazing. It is too expensive to ship and not available over here.They are liquid soaps. I do not make soap myself, but I love these these soaps so much I wish I could find a lavender soap over here in the US. One tsp of soap in 16 oz. Makes a whole bottle of cleaner.
I hope you find an answer. They are the traditional cleaning soaps in France and skandinavia. I can buy the Rubio at the local Woodcraft store.

 

[Iveta Pelá]

I

i use Rubio Monocoat soap to clean my wood floors. It is pure linseed oil soap with Lemon in it. It is the best all around cleaning soap I have used. It even cleans glass within 95% of pure alcohol. I have ordered Rampal La Tour’s linseed oil with lavender scent from France and it is equally amazing. It is too expensive to ship and not available over here.They are liquid soaps. I do not make soap myself, but I love these these soaps so much I wish I could find a lavender soap over here in the US. One tsp of soap in 16 oz. Makes a whole bottle of cleaner.
I hope you find an answer. They are the traditional cleaning soaps in France and skandinavia. I can buy the Rubio at the local Woodcraft store.

I have heard that linseed oil soap is a good wood cleaner. I would also like to try it sometime. This soap I made is for the skin from edible linseed oil. There are two linseed oils. The refined one is used as a cleaning agent and cold-pressed for food. I also use it for food, it has a lot of great properties, but unfortunately has a high tendency to go rancid. (note that linseed oil, which is used as a cleaner, is not edible) I used the edible oil for soap. I love this soap. Just because of this oil's tendency to go rancid, I don't know how long it will last. It is now about two months since production. So far all soaps are fine. If it lasts half a year, I think I can consider it a success under the circumstances.

 

[Savage Daughter]

Because you mentioned they are soft soaps, kinda like pine tar can tend to be from all the pne tar soap makers I have heard talking, I would suggest adding some sea salt to your lye water, before dissolving your lye.

I recently used 3 TSP of sea salt in a 2.2KG batch of my first pine tar soap & even though it was kinda soft when cutting, nothing extreme, approximately 12 hours after cutting each soap had hardened enough to bevel & to hand polish.

I also put some of my pine tar soap batter into cavity molds, like you did with your flax seed oil soap. I was able to unmold all 9 cavity molds 24 hours later with no problem. My experience with cavity molds when I was still using sodium lactate was not great. I had to wait about a week before unmolding anything in a cavity mold, otherwise the sides of my bars, as well as the design details, wound up not being crisp & clean.

The salt helps a great deal & I have found it is more effective than sodium lactate. I know you said you used sodium citrate, so I am not referring to this. Just your comment that your teddy bears didn't come out of their molds perfectly.

 

[Iveta Pelá]

Because you mentioned they are soft soaps, kinda like pine tar can tend to be from all the pne tar soap makers I have heard talking, I would suggest adding some sea salt to your lye water, before dissolving your lye.

I recently used 3 TSP of sea salt in a 2.2KG batch of my first pine tar soap & even though it was kinda soft when cutting, nothing extreme, approximately 12 hours later each soap had hardened enough to bevel & to hand polish.

I also put some of my pine tar soap batter into cavity molds, like you did with your flax seed oil soap. I was able to unmold all 9 cavity molds 24 hours later with no problem. My experience with cavity molds when I was still using sodium lactate was not great. I had to wait about a week before unmolding anything in a cavity mold, otherwise the sides of my bars, as well as the design details, wound up not being crisp & clean.

The salt helps a great deal & I have found it is more effective than sodium lactate. I know you said you used sodium citrate, so I am not referring to this. Just your comment that your teddy bears didn't come out of their molds perfectly.

@Savage Daughter Thanks so much for the salt idea and sharing your experience. Yes, it's true, the linseed oil soap was soft for a long time and it took a long time to get it out of the molds and it also took a long time to cure because it was still soft. Also now it is more soft than other soaps.

Since the soap goes down quite a bit (the softness will have an effect on that) and I really like it, I would like to make it again and might include your idea in the next attempt. I think it could be done as Zany does in her ZANY’S NO SLIME OLIVE OIL CASTILE. When will he make salt water for his lye solution. I have already tried his castile soap. I made it in the same teddy bear molds and all the children in the family love it. This is where I tested how the salt works perfectly. But I didn't think to use it here, so I'm glad for the reminder.

 

[AliOop]

My only issue with using salt is that it reduces the lather, at least in my recipes. Other options:

1. Use vinegar as a partial or complete water replacement. You will have to adjust the lye, but your loaves will firm up for unmolding quite a bit faster. Anecdotally, bars with vinegar feel harder overall to me after curing, as well.

2. Use some cocoa butter or soy wax to increase the hardness of the bars. Butters can also dampen the lather a bit, but for my recipes, it's less noticeable than using salt.

 

[Iveta Pelá]

@Savage Daughter , @curlycoat2, @Vicki C , @AliOop Thank you all so much for responding to my post and sharing valuable advice and experiences. I am happy for your answers. Natural ingredients are what I am drawn to and love. I have a fairly large garden and I grow various varieties, many of which are quite rare. Flowers, fruits and vegetables. And I am interested in their use, both for food and for cosmetic and medicinal purposes. At first, I made soaps without colors to test the properties of the oils and how each soap behaved. Now I would like to add colors, but I want to go the route of natural dyes. And best of all, what I could use from my garden, or what I could plant in my garden, or what I can find in nature. That's why your answers made me so happy. There's plenty of inspiration to explore and try out.

*** I replied to the wrong post and I don't know how to fix it, this belongs to the post Easter soaps - colors

I am sorry

 

[Savage Daughter]

My only issue with using salt is that it reduces the lather, at least in my recipes.

Funny, in mine it increases it & makes the bubbles bigger I'm sure that also depends on the water in a person's area, so it's worth a shot.