Is my soap lye heavy?

[drewbiezy]

The recipe I used called for 6.9 ounces lye 16 ounces water 40 ounces olive oil 10 ounces coconut oil 2 ounces of essential oils 2 ounces honey and a fourth a cup of oatmeal they turned out like this. Is that normal ash build up or do I need to start over?

 

[Hazel]

You should always double check a recipe with a lye calculator. Fortunately, if your scale was accurate, the soap shouldn't be lye heavy but you don't have much of a superfat - about 4%. However, that's not a big deal since your batch is 80% olive.

I'm not an expert but as to the white on your bars - that doesn't look like ash. That looks like you didn't have the soap thoroughly blended and coconut oil solidified into a layer. I don't know if that is what it is because it's hard to tell from a picture. What temp did you soap at? Is the white portion soft and oily when you rub it between your fingers?

 

[drewbiezy]

It was my first batch. I mixed lye mixture to oil with both at 102. Had to hand stir for several hours and it got very cold that night. I think your coconut oil theory is likely. As for the texture the soap has a uniform semi soft hardening oily dough like texture to it, I will also make sure to check the calculators from now on thanks btw.

 

[Hazel]

That does sound like inadequate saponification and probably from too much heat lost if you had to stir it for several hours. The soap gets too cool, the coconut starts to solidify and it looks like trace (false trace). It's happened to me several times when I've blended at a low temp - around 100 F. You can rebatch it and then stir really well to incorporate the white layer. It should turn out fine. If you're not sure about rebatching, are a couple of links about rebatching. However, you probably won't have to add water since you just made your batch. I don't add extra water if the batch is only a few days old. I rebatch in a double boiler. I cut the soap into small pieces, cover tightly and let the soap simmer for about 1.5 - 2 hours. Usually by this time, the soap will look translucent and then I stir thoroughly to mix well. Then I quickly glop it into a mold.
.
http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapmakingbasics/ss/rebatchingsoap.htm

http://soapmakingforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=28489

When I first started making CP, I found Kathy Miller's trouble shooting info very helpful. http://millersoap.com/trouble.html Actually, I found almost the entire site helpful. It's a great resource.

 

[drewbiezy]

It been curing for two weeks tommorow. Will I need to cure for another three weeks after re batching?

 

[drewbiezy]

Also what temperatures do you add your mixtures at?

 

[Lotus]

That does sound like inadequate saponification and probably from too much heat lost if you had to stir it for several hours. The soap gets too cool, the coconut starts to solidify and it looks like trace (false trace). It's happened to me several times when I've blended at a low temp - around 100 F. You can rebatch it and then stir really well to incorporate the white layer. It should turn out fine. If you're not sure about rebatching, are a couple of links about rebatching. However, you probably won't have to add water since you just made your batch. I don't add extra water if the batch is only a few days old. I rebatch in a double boiler. I cut the soap into small pieces, cover tightly and let the soap simmer for about 1.5 - 2 hours. Usually by this time, the soap will look translucent and then I stir thoroughly to mix well. Then I quickly glop it into a mold.
.
http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/soapmakingbasics/ss/rebatchingsoap.htm

http://soapmakingforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=28489

When I first started making CP, I found Kathy Miller's trouble shooting info very helpful. http://millersoap.com/trouble.html Actually, I found almost the entire site helpful. It's a great resource.

Out of curiosity, how does this account for those who soap at room temperature? Are there not similar issues if you choose to do so?

 

[Miz Jenny]

I soap at room temp with no problems.

 

[Hazel]

Out of curiosity, how does this account for those who soap at room temperature? Are there not similar issues if you choose to do so?

Yes, room temp soaping can be tricky because of the chance of false trace, etc. It's a learning process about how your recipes perform at RT and recognizing what you're seeing as you blend the soap. I recommend a stick blender because it really shortens the stirring time and there is less of a chance of some oils solidifying before trace is achieved.

I only soap at cooler temps when I'm using a dairy product. I have to admit it's not my favorite way to soap but I do it because I love buttermilk soap. :grin: I think a couple of people on the forum had mentioned they only soap at room temperature. It's personal preference.

@ drewbiezy

Rebatching is going to evaporate a tiny amount of the water but the longer you allow soap to cure, the more water evaporates and the longer the soap will last in the shower. After rebatching, you can use some of the soap if you're impatient but remember it won't last as long and it won't be as nice as it will become after curing. The curing process isn't just about hardening soap. The soap also continues to go through some more changes and becomes milder. I've also found the lather improves for several of my recipes. I'd suggest at least 2 more weeks after rebatching which should be enough. Personally, I like to cure high percentage olive soaps a lot longer because I'm not that fond of the lather from OO soaps.

eta: There's another person who prefers to soap at room temp.

 

[DeeAnna]

To Lotus & Jenny --

Yes, soaping at room temperature is a valid method, but consider what the OP said about his/her procedure.

"...Had to hand stir for several hours and it got very cold that night...."

Do you soap at or near room temperature AND then mix the batter by hand for a couple of hours? Or do you stick blend so your saponification reaction starts making its own heat fairly soon?

Two very different situations with quite different outcomes. I'm with Hazel on this.

 

[Miz Jenny]

I only soap at room temp and I use a stick blender.

 

[Lotus]

To Lotus & Jenny --

Yes, soaping at room temperature is a valid method, but consider what the OP said about his/her procedure.

"...Had to hand stir for several hours and it got very cold that night...."

Do you soap at or near room temperature AND then mix the batter by hand for a couple of hours? Or do you stick blend so your saponification reaction starts making its own heat fairly soon?

Two very different situations with quite different outcomes. I'm with Hazel on this.

Very good point, Dee Anna

 

[ghia61]

That does sound like inadequate saponification and probably from too much heat lost if you had to stir it for several hours. The soap gets too cool, the coconut starts to solidify and it looks like trace (false trace). It's happened to me several times when I've blended at a low temp - around 100 F. You can rebatch it and then stir really well to incorporate the white layer. It should turn out fine. If you're not sure about rebatching, are a couple of links about rebatching. However, you probably won't have to add water since you just made your batch. I don't add extra water if the batch is only a few days old. I rebatch in a double boiler. I cut the soap into small pieces, cover tightly and let the soap simmer for about 1.5 - 2 hours. Usually by this time, the soap will look translucent and then I stir thoroughly to mix well. Then I quickly glop it into a mold.

That makes sense. Is there a safe way to get the batter temp back up in this situation?

 

[DeeAnna]

"...a safe way to get the batter temp back up in this situation?..."

Are you referring to keeping your original soap batter warm enough -- not about the rebatch? If so, I'd say the better way is to prevent the problem in the first place.

A stick blender will reduce the amount of time needed to come to trace and also mixes the batter more completely and thoroughly. If you really want to hand stir your batter for a couple of hours, then start soaping a bit warmer ... insulate your soap pot ... work in a warmer room. Anything to keep the batter reasonably warmish.

To answer your question directly -- I have heard of people gently warming their soap pot if it gets too cool. I'm not a huge fan of putting a container of caustic soap batter on a stove, in a pan of hot water, or in a microwave. Instead, I would probably put the batter in a crock pot set on low. But by doing that, you are getting close to the realm of making "hot process" soap rather than "cold process" soap.

 

[Miz Jenny]

In rethinking my response, I do think it's important to "cut your teeth" using standard cold process method of combining heated oils with lye. I made many many batches using standard method before venturing aloft. e.g. Yesterday my oils cooled a little too long
When I started blending, it appeared to be at trace. I knew it was at false trace so I kept blending.

 

[daisy8]

The soap recipe includes honey - some people prefer not to insulate the soap as the honey can cause the soap to heat up too much.

 

[DeeAnna]

daisy -- the OP was talking about keeping the soap batter warmer before trace, not after. Until the saponification reaction really gets going (in other words, after trace occurs), the honey won't make any difference.

 

[Lucidcat2]

I haven't used honey in soap yet, but, I understand it can be pretty finicky too. I wonder if the oatmeal floated to the top? I haven't worked with oatmeal either, I'm just asking questions. I did, however, make a soap with mostly olive oil and a little coconut (Bastille soap I guess you'd call it) & it was extremely soft for a long time, it was close to a week before I could even un-mold it.