CL, I just checked my notes. That batch, a fairly small one, required 9.12 oz of water (I used full water b/c of the milk element.)
I used 4.65 oz of aloe water and mixed the lye into it to make the lye water, which I added to the oils. For the remaining 4.5 oz liquid portion I used 4.5 oz of canned coconut milk and added .5 oz of cm powder, I think WSP says that it is reconstituted at @ 1oz per cup (so I assumed that would be pretty much adding the equivalent of full coconut milk) stick blended it well to get rid of lumps, and added it to the batch at emulsification but before trace as Lee did - Carolyn recommended this timing, and it works for me.
I did two cm batches this way, one at 3% SF, one at 5%, just b/c I want to see the difference after cure. I did not color the 3% one, and used a non-discoloring FO, did not CPOP, and it is a pretty ivory color. I used a musk which contains vanilla for the 5% one, and it did discolor, but I think b/c o the FO, not the cm.
When I have CPOP'd with milks it has made them darker - and one definitely overheated - for the most part I think I will not do it in the future, even though I generally like CPOP'ing for the color/rapid demolding and do it with most of the rest of my soaps.
Does that make sense? If not I can send you the notes for the batch in a PM.
Re the aloe, I'm pretty sure that is the rate the WSP folks recommended in one of the Q&A section responses. I'm not sure how that would translate into tspns. I just ended up getting a gallon jug of aloe juice from Trader Joe's for $7.99, that has worked perfectly, plenty to use for now and I froze some in ziplock bags for later (thanks to lsg for the recommendation on that.)