IPM in emulsified sugar scrub?

[magali]

Hi all, I made my first whipped emulsified sugar scrub and still don't like the greasiness.
I don't live in America and don't have any access to dryer feel emulsifiers like BTMS. And I just realized that the one I used (glyceryl stearate se) according to SCM is not an all in one emulsifier. Any effect? I understand that in an emulsified sugar scrub you use emulsifier not to emulsify water and oil, but for the rinsing abilities so when in contact with water it turns into in the shower lotion.

My questions are:
1. IPM
Can I use IPM to cut the greasy oil slick feel to a more lotion feel? At how many percent? (Oils I used: 10% shea, 10% cocoa, 56% macadamia oil). And should I make a new batch with IPM and/or can I save this batch even I already put the sugar by adding IPM at this stage?

2. Emulsifier
Does the emulsifier contribute to the stickiness and greasiness? Will using a dryer feel emulsifier help to cut it down? And since we don't actually need the emulsifying properties in sugar scrub, does weaker emulsifier like glyceryl stearate do the job?

3. Preservative
I put liquid germal plus in this batch and I realized this scrub doesn't even have water in it. Is it possible for the germal plus to activate from little splashes of water introduced in the shower or from my hands?

4. Texture
After I whipped it but before I put sugar in it, the texture was balmy. It was like lip balm before it gets solidified, not runny but not fluffy. What's the right texture for a whipped sugar scrub? Is it possible to make the texture a bit like a whipped body butter texture? (In this batch I also put 5% stearic acid and 5% cetyl Alcohol).

Extra question about emulsifier: I saw a local supplier have this other emulsifying wax with the same INCI as Soft and Silky in the states. Does it mean it's more or less the same stuff?

Any tips appreciated. TIA

 

[magali]

Hi DeeAnna,
May I know how did you get the 7:1 ratio for the scrub? I make lotion bar and emulsified sugar scrub, and I find it hard to figure out the right amount if I want to incorporate emulsifier and IPM.

I posted my questions a few days ago but no reply so far. http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=63387

Where I live is ultra humid, I need to cut down the greasiness for lotion bar and sugar scrub I make or it feels tacky on my skin (like too much glycerin, though I didn't add any glycerin at all, probably the sugar?).

I'm glad I didn't share my trial run recipe. The 7:1 fat to emulsifier ratio is a big bust for a number of reasons. Suffice to say it's totally not working. I based this trial recipe on an emulsifying sugar scrub I make. As a scrub, a 7:1 ratio is fine. As a lotion bar, not so much.



KC's recipe has about 1:2.9 fat to emulsifier ratio. (I'm including the cetyl alcohol as a "fat") His recipe is similar to a solid hair conditioner bar that I make and like a lot for my fine wavy hair. I have used this conditioner bar on wet skin, and it leaves a light lotion-y film on my skin. Pretty nice.



I wanted a bit more lotion and a different blend of fats for my skin, however, but the scrub recipe is too much of a good thing. WAY too much fat and not enough emulsifier. I will tweak the conditioner recipe instead -- it has a 1:2.6 ratio of fat to emulsifier. I used conditioning emulsifier aka generic BTMS in this recipe too.

 

[DeeAnna]

"...May I know how did you get the 7:1 ratio for the scrub?..."

I made 6 test batches to figure that out. With increasing amounts of mild cussing as I progressed from batch 1 to batch 6. :mrgreen:

If you change the fats or add/subtract other ingredients, the ratio might need to change again. It's all about finding a happy balance -- you want the product to rinse off cleanly YET leave an invisible lotion-y layer of fat on the skin.

Too little emulsifier, and you'll have visible globs of fat left behind -- ugh -- especially in cool/cold water. Too much, and the skin doesn't feel as lubricated and "lotioned up" as I like.

Also your choice of fats makes a big difference in the skin feel. If you want a light feeling result, start with fats and oils that are light feeling and absorb well. You may need more emulsifier as well to get more rinse-off of the fats -- that may also help you get the right skin feel for a warm, humid climate.

Hi DeeAnna,
May I know how did you get the 7:1 ratio for the scrub? I make lotion bar and emulsified sugar scrub, and I find it hard to figure out the right amount if I want to incorporate emulsifier and IPM.

I posted my questions a few days ago but no reply so far. http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=63387

Where I live is ultra humid, I need to cut down the greasiness for lotion bar and sugar scrub I make or it feels tacky on my skin (like too much glycerin, though I didn't add any glycerin at all, probably the sugar?).

 

[magali]

Thanks DeeAnna! Right now I'm using 1:1 ratio of oil to emulsifier for the scrub, it's so much better than the last attempt with less emulsifier but I will tweak more until I get the skin feel I want.
Anyway, this is the whipped emulsified sugar scrub without the sugar after a couple of days. Is it normal if some oils separated like that?

 

[DeeAnna]

I don't get any separation. I don't have any ideas why yours is from just a photo -- a recipe would be helpful.